Cryptography: the hardest slab in the world?
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Did Alessandro Zeni master the most difficult slab in the world? Find out in the Karpos film, the thrilling story of a new and inscrutable route (9b), imagined, visualized and dreamed of for years.
The outstanding athlete, a member of the sports section of the Italian Army and a Karpos ambassador, executed his work of art on the legendary Saint-Loup crag in Switzerland. An achievement that will go down in climbing history.
A Film by
KARPOS
Directed by
STEFANO JEANTET
Cast
ALESSANDRO ZENI
DENIS TRENTO
In Collaboration with
CENTRO SPORTIVO ESERCITO COURMAYEUR
© 2020 Karpos
The music kind of makes the video unwatchable...
Wow, that one finger crimp was absolutely heinous
An empty T-Nut hole at the gym would be better than that hold.
Me at 0:25 Ah, ironic choice of music for the intro
Me at 6:00 Oh dear.....
Good effort, though
Yeah there are some discutable artistic choices in this video but the achievement in itself is really amazing and both route and climber are cool, so yeah too bad it's so artificial
great achievement, great video, great climber, good commenting but horrible music. Just re-upload it without music and this would be a great video for the ages.....
Nailed it.
I thought I was doing some slab climbing yesterday....then I watch this guy.
My fingers hurt even worse for having watched this!
The two hardest slabs in the world are meltdown (wales) 9a/8c+ and territorio comanche 8c+ (madrid) spain, this is not a truly slab, is a vertical wall
@@MS-fg8qo humm i didnt think about it. But maybe its a liltle bit more than 90°. Look at the quickdraws they are floating
@@arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086 hmm, I checked again and I think you're right about it being slightly overhung, at least in the upper section. Other than that, I don't see any other serious contender for hardest slab in the world🤷♂️🙂.
It looks like a slab to me at 2:54
Eternit?
Looks fantastic and so great you got it!
👏👍😊Complimenti un video eccezionale grazie per averlo condiviso 👏👏👏👍😊🔝 👋
Grandissimo Ale!! Peccato per la musica del video un po' fastidiosa, sarebbe bello avere una versione della salita "cruda" senza musica e montaggio :)
Vertical.Slab is so much fun
💪🏼
This seems sort of similar to Adam Ondra's recent linkup, Bohemian Rhapsody, which was also created by taking the hardest part of multiple existing routes, joining them with a traverse to the right?
really great penmanship tho ngl
Alessandro pubblica altri video che son bellissimi ! ! E trova una linea indipendente sulle stesse difficoltà o maggiori vicino a casa tua, sarebbe bellissimo vedere nascere un 9b+ di placca tutto italiano e sfidare i mostri sacri della arrampicata mondiale . Forza ALE.
Grande!!
Bellissimo!
cool moves! carving in the crag is normal over there, you'd get $heet for it over here.
Exactly. Tame your ego brah. Stellar job tho !
I think the answer to your question is "No - probably not." Meltdown looks harder for one example. I guess we'll see how many repeats this climb gets - if people feel it's worth checking out.
Nice, but shouldn't all slabs 5.13 and up just be named "raining blood"?
Normally I would mute videos with such "bad" music scoring it, but I wanted to hear the commentary by Alessandro. My gf and I couldn't watch past 2 mins because of the music, and the camera footage was just not great (why would you rotate the angle constantly...). Really sad, as we were both stoked to see what 5.15 slab looked like...
I could kind of take the music, but the constantly changing camera angles drove me nuts.
Most difficult slab in the world? What about Disbelief 9b in Canada?
Disbelief is a wall very slightly overhanging. Even if it's a very unusual profile in this level of difficulty (most of the routes are very overhanging), you cannot call it a slab, so that would make Cryptography the hardest slab in the world. I would love to see Adam in these 3 routes by the way, I think he would really enjoy it !
from description: the most difficult slab in the world? there is a question mark!!!
I think the two slabs more hard core are meltdown and territorio comanche there are "SLABS" this rute is a litel bit overhanging, for me is not a slab
I've seen this thing in person, the cruxes are definitely gently overhanging. Look at 2:00 and 3:05, the draws are hanging in space, not leaning against the wall. As such, this is a brilliant piece of climbing, but calling this the "hardest slab in the world" is certainly just not true. Also the crux on this thing is the crux of Bimbaluna, which is certainly no where near as hard as the crux of Disbelief.
Nice work! Looks insanely hard to pull on. But I’m the words of the God Alex Megos in Rotpunkt “There are no bad conditions, only weakness” 😂
except for slabs :)
I mean that’s a nice saying and all, but it’s still objectively false. Friction on small holds is a very critical part, especially on a 9b slab
Incredible!!! 🤙
What about Disbelief (9B) in Canada? Ondra said it was the closest to his limit possible. Looks like a slab from the video. No overhang there...
Actually Disbelief is not a slab, it is very close but it's a few degrees overhanging, that is why it is called the first vertical 9b and not first slab 9b. Hope this cleared things up
@@user-ih3jl9um6e You're right. I've rechecked and come to the same conclusion 😅.
the answer is "la pedriza".
You dont see many 9a climbers on that wall😆
why he look like perry the platypus
Everyday's job in montserrat
very cheesy production which spoils an impressive send story
Looks pretty steep for a slab...
Is this really slab tho? It looks basically vertical
Slab can also be slightly overhanging in some parts.
It is the style of climbing: on a very compact wall and minimal holds.
@@francescocornelio7498 "Slab climbing is a type of rock climbing where the rock face is at an angle less steep than vertical." Literally the first thing that comes up when googling slab climbing
@@ryangamv8 ha ha ha .... so Eternit (@Baule Crag) is not a slab??? ... Ok ... (PS: are you Adam Ondra ? ...)
Great achievement, poor choice of music.
Not slab climbing.
pre clipped???
where is the pre clip?
Meh
Minute 3:00 no helmet, terrible example man