BMW E90 N43 oil pressure too low
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- 🙌🤞IMPORTANT UPDATE 27/02/24 - SEE THE NEW VIDEO THAT I MADE TODAY AS IT SEEMS THAT I HAVE FOUND THE LONG TERM REASON WHY THIS OIL LIGHT IS COMING BACK FOR SOME PEOPLE AND FOR OTHERS IT IS NOT. YOU MUST CHECK THIS IS AFTER YOU CHANGE THE OIL PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE AND YOUR LIGHT COMES BACK ON. THIS NEW VIDEO IS THE SMOKING GUN. VIDEO IS IN THE INFO CARD ON THIS VIDEO. THANKS FOR THE GREAT COMMENTS AND I WAS HAPPY THAT I HAVE HELPED HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE. LETS HOPE THIS NEW VIDEO HELPS MORE FOLK.
The BMW N43 engine is fairly okay as long as you maintain it regularly. Every now and then the DME controlled oil pressure solenoid valve becomes saturated with swarf, the screen filter blocks and then the oil pressure drops sporadically. See where this valve is, how to diagnose it and if you have the same fault on your car you can see how to solve this problem so that you have no issues with your BMW engines reliability.
The DME detects low oil pressure from feedback via the oil pressure switch, which on the N43, is located on the block near the knock sensors.
One thing to watch out for also is the oil filter still has the centre piece as with many BMW engines this can be omitted during servicing. This usually causes lack of pressure at the VANOS solenoids thus causing a DTC to be set for VANOS operation.
I hope that you enjoy the video and feel free to skip to the middle of the video where most of the action is :)
See you next time and keep spannering.
![Oil Warning Light🚨{on car}: Meaning & How to fix🚘Oil Pressure warning light [on dashboard] CAR?](/img/n.gif)
Bought a 140k miles E92 320i as my first car, 3 days in I’m sat googling this stuff 😂 hope to god this video solves my problem. Thanks for all you do mate 🙏🏽.
Hi Danny. You are welcome my friend. Thanks for supporting this channel bud. I post alot on here and there will be loads you can look through from my other videos such as techniques and tips how to diagnose things yourself. Be sure to subscribe and check out my bmw blog mechanic playlist as this is my main posting activity area 🙂
Did it resolve it?
@@jackl8915 the fault went away on its on mate 😂 I then sold the car, it was a pig
@dannyr5 😂 Typical Beemer
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding got another one now with the n53 but thank god someone’s liked after it, had some tasteful mods done to it and some expensive maintenance done over the years. Can be a dice roll with these cars. It has inspired me to pursue a career within cars though!
Brilliant video, thanks so much for posting. I had the same issue on my 2010 E92 N43 at 77k miles. Tried to get the oil pressure control valve out to clean it, but it snapped off - same as yours. So followed your video and managed to get it out using an M12 tap, but it took quite a bit of hammering. After it came out I had to fish out the spring and the end cap from the chamber, as they'd come off the valve - not sure whether they broke off beforehand, or I put the tap in too far - about 1.5cm. Put in a new valve £120 from ebay and the engine is running like a dream. Would never have known what to do with a broken off valve without your video. I owe you a pint. Thanks again for posting, love the commentary and the accent btw. Best of luck with the channel mate..
How amazing that my little M12 tap did the job for you as well and that you managed to fix the car with a new valve 🙂👍 Thanks alot for the comments and support. Awesome 🙂
Straight to the point, plenty of knowledge to pick up on for a DIYer like me, really enjoyed this mate!
Thanks so much for the kind reply and great encouragement. I have alot more videos in the pipeline so keep tuned for more 🙂
Top video 👍 did this customer’s car have the 30C1 fault code for ‘engine-oil pressure control’? My car has that fault and maybe this is why although the sump was removed recently and no debris in it ir pick up….neither did the VANOS solenoids…?
@01123581321341 Engine oil pressure control static was the fault description. Sometimes these solenoids just fail. If you look at them they aint very sturdy to be fair. A real pain these solenoids are 🤷♂️
Best video ive seen adressing oil pressure problems! Thanks so much!
Thank you for the nice comments and glad that you liked it 🙂
I just did the job myself and my recommendation would be to not twist it too much as it will break the crimp. Instead you should twist it only slightly until you see the metal plate can move. Next get a set of adjustable pliers and someone else who will rapidly tap the body of the solenoid with a small hammer while you pull straight outwards. Take your time take it easy and it should come out without breaking.
If you watch the video again you will hear that I warn about not twisting the valve body for that exact reason. You did one of them right? I have replaced hundreds going back 15 years and sometimes they will not come out no matter how gentle you do it or even if you try to pull straight up. Fact is at times they will break off from the crimp.
outstanding mechanic
Thanks alot buddy 🙂
I had an oil pressure warning once. I immediately took it to my mechanic and did timing chain guides, vanos units, vanos solenoids, oil pump chain kit, cam position sensors, and of course this little bastard oil pressure solenoid. Didn't want to take any chances with this engine. Thankfully there was nothing major wrong, just the solenoid had some dirt in it. Not much though. Probably enough to tript the fault once at idle.
Haven't had any other issues since except for a super annoying tick that appears after 2000 revs and goes up with RPM after the engine has been fully warmed up.
I'm replacing all the lifters and valve stem seals just to be on the safe side next week.
Injectors, plugs and sparks are new and the last time they opened it up the cams looked fine.
I swear if this wasn't my dream car I would sell it(E92 320i) :)) Still, I love to tinker with it and I've learned a lot doing little DIY's on this car.
Do you know if faulty lifters cause damage/lubrication issues in this N43 engine? I've read the 6 Cylinder variants have lifter noise but it doesn't affect anything. I'm a bit anxious about cam wear
Probably the best maintained N43 ever it seems bud. I hope you get many years out of it 🙂Keep that oil changed every 9000 miles and jobs a good un 🙂
Thankyou all for supporting me as this tiny channel grows - slowly...zzzzz 😀 But 3000 views, well it isn't huge and my other videos are snoozing but the fact that all of you have found some value in this is very nice. Currently working on some other videos, it will take time to get these videos right but I have learned so much so far, editing, photshop etc. If you fancy watching my other videos it would be awesome 👍
Hello buddy. We’ve just bought an e90 n43 320i, on 96k. Full history. Very clean and looked after vehicle with every receipt from new.
Owner had it serviced prior to handover. Not sure if he used cheap oil and filter. Need to look at receipt.
Anyhow, we have a very intermittent oil pressure warning. Once turned off it resets itself. I’m gunna try this fix hope it works. Excellent video. Seems the penetrating fluid worked a treat with a careful patient use of correct tool. I’m quite mechanically minded being a panel/paint man and having been around cars my whole life. I need videos like this as a bit of confidence and guidance. Thanks brother. Would you advise us to use an OE part or a regular eBay job. Old saying, buy cheap buy twice.
Edit, receipt for timing chain too 8000 miles ago.
Hi Kris. Glad the vid helped bud. Buy original but if you managed to watch part 2 of the video you will understand the issue is the sump powder coating. Thats a subframe down job though 😕
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding yes mate. Just watched part 2. Question, after seeing the powder coating lifting, bubbling and rusting, in your humble opinion what do you think causes moisture in the sump?
Let’s hope it’s just the valve when I take it out Saturday 🙏🙏🙏 I’ll replace with OE, the car deserves it.
@kriscowley3241 no idea bud but I just sanded most of it off and wiped a load of oil all over where the oil will never reach, if that makes sense
i own my n43 for 10 years, and i do my own maintenance, excellent video.
Thanks alot. Really appreciate that you watched it 🙂
can we chat on telegram? i would like to know someone who do maintance on this engine to share knowledge :)
Time is an issue for me, I dont really use telegram either. You can, by all means, follow me on linkedIn (link on my channel banner above) there you can certainly send messages.
How many miles had yours done before you had injector, timing chain or any major issues?
@@Framus-wm3ye i had 205 000km car was fine, i just wanted to change timing chain preventively and engine was full of carbon, burned oil horrible mess, i have photos. timing gaude was broken and pieces of it fall in to oil pump nose, immediatly after timing chaing replaced oil pump striped off gear shaft (i have photos too) so i had to replace it too. Wanted to change only timing chain and ended up with replaced OEM oil pump, timing chain, chain and gears for oil pump, oil pan (was coroded) and some other parts... bill was too high for my taste. Still fighting with problems with this engine, after that clima compressor clutch coil was replaced (Was burn) and now i have error codes with EGR alreadyd bought it and waiting for friend so we can replace it.
Somebody asked me what the oil pressure should be but since this engine uses map controlled oil valve the pressure varies constantly. At idle the pressure is much less than at 6000 rpm as the engine needs much more oil at that speed which is one of the reasons why at idle you usually have the sticking problem with solenoid since the solenoid rarely goes full chat unless the car is driven like you stole it. 2500 mBar should be fine at idle where some with faulty valves are at 1109 mBar and they put the oil light on as pressure feedback from oil sensor to DME is judged as too low.
The solution long term is to replace this valve and have full flow full pressure at all times and then remove the oil pump map from the DME. I think its possible.
I have E90 N43 with 96.000 km and on highway going 140km/h for about half an hour, I got low oil pressure warning. I pulled over, restarted the engine and the problem gone until the next day, when I had to drive on the highway again. Strange thing is that in the city, where I use the car mostly, this warning didn't show up yet. I will tell the mechanic about your video. Thank you for sharing!
They are a nightmare at times. Sure you should check the valve as I did but check the chain and if any slack is detected you really need to be looking at sump off and checking if any debris in there. Really cool that you found my video useful. Dont forget to subscribe as there are more videos in production. Thanks 🙂
@@allmech_BMW_fault_findingHi thanks for sharing this video it might be a great help for me 👍🏻
I have N43 118i with same issue as described above that started couple day ago with low oil pressure light during highway driving…
Car is at 231k km with timing chain and everything else original… so far only service items like plugs coils filters and one cam sensor that failed….
ive had the sump off around 3000-4000km back and there was no sign of any plastic debris from the guides, i also checked the oil pump suction tube and the screen at the oil pump and all was clean….. Vanos solenoids, oil filter without any sign of sludge or any metal flakes….
This oil control valve does seem to be the the last possible option to check without some major dissasembly to check the oil pump so hopefully it will sort out our issue…
Any ideas of what wlse could possibly cause this ? I know there are loads of possibilities but jist asking in case there are any obvious ones i may have missed
Thanks again your videos are great help 👍🏻
@17tomashavlin Hi Thomas🙂 Usually these engines suffer with aluminium swarf more than metal and this usually comes from many places. Its just one of those engines. If a cambelt would have been used it would have been way better 😀
Have the same exact problem as you, did you figure it out? mine has 200k km and it does the same exact thing, when i use it in the city no prob once i get out on highway - it pops . thanks mate
@@sheeva1061 Yes, the mechanic replaced the solenoids and since then all is fine. Replaced the oil too.
👍
ACCOMPLISHED,BMW Mechanic-AllMech
Take care,BMW Mechanic-AllMech
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 17:45pm
Thanks for the video. I'm very glad that you finally solved this! I'm also having the N43 and exactly the same issue, and I knew that probably this solenoid is responsible for that. Once I tried to pull this out, it also stuck in the same way, so I had to cancel the this procedure after some hours, otherwise it would be end-up like with your broken one. I nearly expected it. Really a bad design! But at least I saw the method now, how to be in that situation. Would be interesting to know, how BMW service deals with it? I can imagine they have a special tool for that 😀
Hi. Sadly no special tool🙂 Only perseverance and a bit of luck that it stays in one piece when removing. Yes, not a great solenoid. The trouble with the N43 is debris-once it gets into the oil galleries it can be difficult to remove even with a new chain. The main oil galleries should be cleaned out but then you may as well strip the entire engine and replace parts so not cheap. I am very happy that the video helped you out. You can subscribe if you want to since I am trying to grow my channel. Lots more BMW videos coming 🙂
Great video.. wish i had the skill and tools to pull out off. Having to scrap 1 month after buying E87 with N43B20a because repair cost to high. Geezer who sold it clearly saw i was easy target and I cant in fair conscience do that to someone else.
Mate try to find a cheaper but good mechanic. Kudos to you for your honesty as there is less of that these days. What exactly is wrong with your n43?
Very low pressure. I thinkbthe recommended minimum is 1600psi and mine was half of that. It also has timing chain issues causing very long cranks. Funny thing is i had the diesel for many years, 170k miles, and had no issues. I was only forced to change becos of ULEZ in London
@lariyo9122 I feel for you - Ulez is causing quite a controversy. Get the chain sorted mate as no doubt there will be plastic partially obstructing the pick up pipe for the oil pump. I hope you find a good Bmw indy to do the work on it. I had one in today "oil pressure static" its like an epidemic 😵💫
New sub here, really like your calm collected style to what is quite an annoying situation 😂. I've got a 2008 automatic 320i petrol with only 59k on the clock. You say its worth removing as part of routine but is it if there's no issue? I'm tempted but worry it would snap. Cheers
Thanks for the sub! Just be careful removing it. If you find black debris you would be advised removing the sump as this is where the powder coating comes off that ends up in the control valve.
I was thinking at the beginning of your video how you sounded just like Fred Dibnah then you go and mention him! Great video by the way very informative thank you 🙏
Haha. Everyone says that Kevin 😅 I was brought up near Bolton not far from Fred. If I am half the mechanic he was I would be happy 🙂
These videos are a great watch and show your skills. Nice to hear a northern accent too, even if it is from across the border for me !! Please keep making more 👌
I will keep making them with such kind comments :) Seriously I started to make these videos just to share my knowledge and also get some feedback from other professionals so that I can keep evolving and getting better. I am a big believer in sharing knowledge for the benefits of others especially for the young guys wanting to start off in this challenging industry :)
Thank you so much for this video. My E87 has the same problem but now I know what’s the problem. Great work!
Hope you fix it bud 🙂
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding worked like a charm!! Thanks mate 😎😊
Thats cool. Please help to spread my channel so that it grows.
Thank for show me this and especially the bits where went wrong and how to fix them 10 out of 10.
No worries Christian. Glad to have helped ☺️
Omg... just going thru some of your old videos 😂 these valves so many snapped...I found a 16mm prop shaft bolt worked well to get them out
Any way you can buddy 🙂 My old videos hehe. I will be doing more soon as well. Glad you are watching them all. Its great thank you 🙂
Another excellent video mate 👏👏seems like no matter how gentle one trys with some parts if they are designed weak/flawed it's more likely than not to break 😢 All part of the fun though 😁
Another beemer saved for now 😉
Yep. Funny that I warned about it breaking then it happened haha
Thank you very much you’ve shown me how to fix the the oil pressure fault on my engine 🙌👌👍
Hi 🙂 More than happy to. Would you subscribe please? I wont have much about the n43 usually in terms of new videos but much more useful stuff up and coming.
Hi, can you share a part number for this? Thank you!
Amazed it was just that after what these engines normally do with the chain guides and crap in the sump. Ask me how i know! 😂🤯 just doing a rebuild on mine at the mo. First time ive ever had an engine out so a journey of discovery and a project. Needs a crank grind and a new rod as well. Got hot on cylinder 4 journal. Didnt spin bearing or seize thouh but bearing was knackered and put a few small marks on crank.
Wow what a legend 💪🏻 If you can rescue it go for it🙂Yep sometimes it fixes it sometimes not. I remember when I first started repairing chains on these the first thing we checked was if the lower timing guide bolt had sheared off and often it had. In those days working for the BMW dealer we condemned the whole engine. Crazy😃
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding i started polishing crank in situ but went to check clearance with plastigauge and rod cap wouldnt go back on properly so that was signal for engine out. Right mission in my garage. If i flush oil galleries out with brake cleaner will they just dry out ok or do i need to flush with something else after?
brake cleaner is ok but keep using compressed air and go backwards through crank main bearing oil holes in the block with grub screw gallery blanks removed. This way you clean crap small hole to big hole as opposed to the other way around.
In an ideal world the block would be put into a hot chemical degreaser and flushef but that would mean full rebuild.
Brake cleaner in the method that I mentioned is the best you can do. But use alot.
Lastly - get the crank bearings perfectly matched if you are using oversized bearings on a ground crank as the crank is also responsible for keeping good oil pressure 👍
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding thats the plan with the bearings. Ive got a compressor too so will give it a good old clear out! 🙂👍 thanks.
Great stuff 🙂 Cleanliness is key along with good machining
I have the same problem. When the engine is hot and it’s in neutral the low oil pressure comes up. Been trying to find the issue for so long.
It also have low power, like no power at low rpm and runs at too low rpm in neutral. Also the fuel consumption is crazy high. Like 18,5l/100km. Why is this happening? I don’t know car engines to well but I’m learning I’m the way.
Short told:
- low oil pressure light when hot engine in neutral.
- Low Power
- high fuel consumption 18,5l/100km.
The last months We changed the chain, coils, plugs, fuel pump, and will look into this from your video now. Nothing solves the problem yet.
Starting to loose hope here😭
If anyone have any tips I aprichiate🙏🏻❤️
It also have problems with starting unless the car is completely cold. If I drive it and leaves it for like 1 hour it can have problems with starting and the engine does not run right.
(I don’t know much but this is how I can describe it)
Get a borescope in there and check for misting injectors. See my latest video about N43 fuel injectors leaking
I have alot of info in my channel just watch my videos 🙂
Check your plugs too, exhaust tip are they black? Fault codes? I can bet you have leaking injectors. Check smooth running values. Watch czcams.com/video/MQBt8TFwG1w/video.htmlsi=kmqG2XDEBWsTjkwS
Very good video mate, would getting the engine hot by driving it make it easier taking the oil pressure solenoid out?
Not really because swarf gets in between the valve body and the block. You will see that the thing gets scored when you remove it. This is my oldest video too 😀 Plenty of newer content to see.
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding you got a need subscriber. I done the timing chain; I’m getting a long crank at cold start for a while after changing the timing chain and valve solenoid intake and exhaust defo has to be the oil pressure solenoid. Keep up the good work!
Do you need to check the oilpan aswell after changing thia valve?
Not really but the older the oil pan the more likely it will be flaking off inside and after a few months the valve will fill with more crap. The problem on N43 is the oil pickup filter holes are way too big. The N20 by comparison is way finer a mesh and as a result pre-filters way better. If it was me I would do the valve and just drive it and see if you get away with it 🙂
I have the same problem, my oil pressure is too low when the car stands in neutral and the engine is warm. If i drive the pressure is exactly there where it should. I checked the filter and the valve like in your video, but nothing changed.
Did you check if the chain is loose as you turn the engine 360 degrees? Whats the car history? Any previous timing chain replacement? The suction pickup in the sump can become restricted on the mesh filter. But taking sump off at home is a fairly incolved job. I got lucky with this job but often I have had to replace oil pump pick up. You have basically bit of crap in the oil galleries and the engine needs cleaning of that stuff.
I had my timing chain done 1000 miles ago same n43 oil pressure light comes on every once in while if i switch of it goes could this be my problem any help would be apreciated thanks
Did you watch part 2 of this video? Thats the issue and the oil control valve is the symptom basically. Watch part 2 for answers bud.
1:30 can someone explain how does valve overlap make the chain loose?
As the engine camshafts are at a stage of opening the valves there is more chain tension and off cam less tension. Timing chains are dynamic and this is a normal phenomenon in a 4 cylinder engine. A 6 cylinder by contrast has less slack off cam on BMW hence why stretched chains are very rare on 6 cylinder engines.
The N43 chain when totally stretched generally has alot of slack during full rotation and even more than usual in the "slack part"
Hi Ben, really appreciate the advice and technique. I'm giving it ago in my N43 120i as the low oil pressure came on recently. Where in the UK can I buy the drive tap chuck adapter and the slide hammer, I've looked everywhere and impossible to find exact ones. Thanks.
Hi pal. Well Toolstation or Machine Mart would probably sell the taps. The adapter is from Wurth Tools so find a Wurth supplier for those. The slide hammer is from a general diesel fuel injector removal kit.
They dont always snap and often a turn and positive pressure should allow removal by hand.
top videos, is it normal to have metal particles stuck to it? I had about the same amount and size on my inlet and outlet solenoid valves
Not really but on this engine yes 😅 the metal comes from all over the engine but usually from the timing chain. Its a real problem cleaning this out that removing and cleaning the valve should be a service item 😀 Nothing can be done except regular oil changes, keep cleaning the valve and occasionally the oil pressure switch.
The fact that they have migrated to the vanos solenoids may mean its time to look at the chain. Is it the original timing chain?
on my bmw e 91 318i, when the engine warms up, the red oil pressure light comes on. The engine runs normally. What could be the cause? Greeting 😊
Have you watched the video? Usually chain debris blocks the oil pressure control valve
Good job❤❤
Thank you 🙂
Wow I’m so glad I found this video thank you so much not sure to attempt this now I’ve had low oil pressure,over heating just removed the thermostat to fit new one ordered new oil level sensor … no dipstick unbelievable 🙄. and oil pressure sensor now definitely going to order that oil control sensor .never saw how you replaced it is it just supposed to slide in and held buy one bolt ?
Hi. Yes it slides in and has one bolt holding it in place. Just use a lot of oil and rotate it gently at the same time as pushing forwards. It can be quite tight to push home past the o-ring hence needing a fair amount of oil on the bore of the block and the o-ring of the control valve 🙂
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding just done it came out so smooth and easy was as clean as a bell .that’s a bit worrying my next investigation I think is the oil pressure sensor what do you think ? I’ve ordered new oil level sensor comes today it’s all drained down ready for the new part .what are the chances of it being oil pump 🙄do you think ? Thank you for getting back to me it’s appreciated 👍now following you .and buy the way I was going to say you sounded like the great late mr dibnah
@@barriesmith6028 Hi Barrie. Really mate in an ideal world you would need to remove the oil pressure sensor and screw in a pressure gauge to measure the pressure. If I knew the voltage at the sensor with good oil pressure and a good known sensor we could use the voltage to indicate the oil pressure amount but I dont have that info. There are two distinct oil problems on N43 that are the valve and crap in oil from broken guides on the chain and blocked suction pipe or partially blocked. The other fault is a failed level sensor but usually you will not be able to read oil level and CBS (service info) will not display if you have a car with the CID (central info display screen) . It is important to distinguish which fault you have. Usually fault 2 with level sensor may be accompanied by BSD bus fault codes too.
If you suspect oil pressure faults then measure the oil pressure somehow. Live data would be a plus if you have a new oil pressure sensor and you trust it then monitor the pressure. If oil pressure is low then you should consider sump off and explore 🤷🏼♀️
Here is a video showing why the oil pump pickup pipe usually fills with debris. The more it sucks up the less suction the less oil pressure😢
czcams.com/users/shortsWO2eVmYoAwo?feature=share
I got my engine rebuilt and a few months in the low oil pressure warning came up. It comes on sometimes after driving it for a long time then when the car idles afterwards. Never on the motorway or when driving it without stopping. If it happens in the city it would be during idle only after 30-45 mins of driving but if the car turns off and on when auto start stop is engaged it comes off completely until I stop driving and idle for a while again. Any ideas?
Without knowing who or how they rebuilt it mate no idea. Question to ask is did they re-use the original valve? Start with that bud as it sounds like the valve.
What would be the best way to clean it 15:22 cause the mesh filter on the top wont let any liqued through from the inside all came from the bottom one
Just buy a new one bud. As I always say - find out the reason the crap got there. If you watch the second video I made you will see why this happens in most of the cases
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding yeah i bought new one for now, but i wanna keep on cleaning this new one every 10-20k like you said. Would giving in some volts open it or something?
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding yeah i remember seeying some brown rust, but not rust bubbles in the oil pan, ill sand it the next time i have it open
Hi mate my bmw 3 series have ticking sound with no pil pressure is this the same issue of ticking noise from engine ?
No idea. Probably you have a blocked oil pump suction pipe in the sump but without looking at it I have no idea.
Thanks Big Gezzer 👍 Getting there but a looong way to go matey. So time consuming to make these videos 😀
Great ❤teacher, thank you.
What a lovely reply 🙂 My pleasure. Subscribe for more. This is a young channel but I have big plans 🙂
Thank you very much. A great video I also have N43 I have been using it for 7 years with the same problem. When the engine warms up, it gives this warning. I looked at many points including the oil pump and there was no problem. Now I want to change this too, and I'm going to change the oil pressure sensor at the same time. Is it necessary to introduce these two parts with obd after replacing them? Is it enough just to change it
Just changing them is enough 🙂
I have the same problem my N43 , when engine warms up , its gives the same warning .
Did not work for me, next step is to remove sump
does N46 normally have this pressure control valve?
Not sure. I think not as the engine design is so much more different to N43. Tbh I never have much to do with the N46.
I have my car booked for replacing these at a minimum. Is there a way othet than taking sump off the car to actually know the timing chain guides are breakkng up? I did a live data test and idling and the car doesnt lose oil pressure, but light comes on randomly. no noise from timing chain either. I dont want to replace timing chain for the sake of it but thinking you get generic "oil pressure low, static" code for lots of things.
Hi. Just turn the engine over. At some point usually when you feel the compression stroke (if spark plugs left in place) it will go tighter. Get a hook pick and turn engine say 40 degrees then stop check if you can lift chain up. If it is loose like in this video all the time in 360 deg rotation it is worn.
Other way is fit dummy tensioner WATCH THIS EVENINGS BLOG UPDATE ON BMW BLOG MECHANIC. You can find this on my playlists. I tested a diesel today but the principle is the same. Watch later you will understand what I mean. I will mention your name in the video 😅
Other ways - fault codes for cam crank correlation. Do you have these? If timing goes out you will see these and usually its the exhaust cam that goes out of time first.
You can remove the bottom chain guide bolt Torx 45 female but you need to undo crank pulley damper DO NOT UNDO CENTRAL BOLT EVER! 😲Just the small torx bolts 😉 then you can see if this bolt is snapped (they can snap off)
Finally honestly the best way - drain the oil leave overnight then put in a flexible borescope. You will see plastic maybe that way. Phew! That reply tired me out haha. Dont forget to subscribe for more info about the N43 👍 Above all shit in the oil galleries causes this fault. You just need to replace so much and clean everything usually.
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding thanks for the reply. appreciate it a lot!! i think best way is like you said replace the sensor then inspect the timing chain as well. Funny thing is i hear nothing from engine other than the usual sounds of an engine. I think as i don't have all equipment i will ask the garage to drain oil and put a camera to take a look. I guess this be cheaper than asking to drop the sump and taking a look that way. I been a subscriber from the start :) thanks for your videos
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding completed the oil pressure valve and switch/sensor, using your video i now now every word in your video by second LOL i must of watched this 100s times. The light after driving on motorway etc doesn't come on. Funny thing now is the misfire i had has vanished. Bizzare as it sounds it was there when i had the issue with old valve/oil sensor/switch. Now its gone. Is this just a case of "monitoring and see what happens" or the replacment of these parts work together and this resets things and things work normal now??
@mstar011 Hi pal 👍Good news and I hope the light stays off. Yes just monitor it and change the engine oil and filter every 9000 miles to keep the engine spotless. The misfire might be coils or injectors and conincidental but you never know 🤷♂️😅 Well done bud 👍 Excellent work.
You can make a post with some photos on my community page if you wish. I would like to build this into a real community where we all help each other 🙂
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding no thanks for your video it was really helpful without your video i am quite sure i would of yanked it out and caused damage!! great insight thanks :)
REALLY NEED SOME HELP!!!!!
E90 318i 2010
Motor suddenly stopped after parked up, was having slight battery issues so put a jump pack on and turned over 4 times then stopped solid. then turned motor by hand was very tight but did free up, motor then started and idled for about 2 minutes then stopped again, freed it up by hand again it started and run sweet no problem, no odd noises but as soon as i started to drive it the oil light came on and gave me code 0030C1.
Now the motor is getting oil up the top which if it had no oil pressure id expect it wouldn't.
side note it was just ticking and would not wind over until i unplugged the battery negative intelligent battery plug!!! which may have just been a coincidence.
also wondering if this could be the fault but doesn't explain it feeling like it was locked solid
Hi there. That sounds really bad. I need to have a think about that. The IBS can cause many problems and can even disable terminal 15 (ignition live) The IBS (intelligent battery sensor) can fail and short out the BSD or LIN bus which the oil level sensor uses thus causing this component signal to fail also. Unplugging IBS restores the signal. But locking up? I would need to see it as it could be many things.
Even fuel injector leaks can cause these crank sprockets to loosen and spin then they lock back up again.
Are you on LinkedIn? I have the AllMech group there. Join and post a video of everything and we can all take a look and see if we can help. You will find the link in my CZcams profile 🙂
I've replaced that oil pressure control solenoid a week ago, and today low oil pressure warning light showed again. Warning apears when engine is warm and idling, as before replacement. Any idea what it could be? Great video by the way!
Hi Milos. Sadly this does happen and since I am unaware of your cars history I cannot say for sure the issue but usually the timing chain guides break into tiny fragments and block the oil pump suction pipe in the sump. Usually its just crap in the engine that re-interferes with the new oil valve. Sadly the engine needs a full strip and clean usually from main oil galleries as once metal is in its 50/50 if oil valve replacement alone is enough. On this car it fixed the problem.
I’ve had an issue with n43 and the crankshaft was cracked, I’ve replaced the crankshaft, timing chains and guides, oil pump, all in all a total rebuild of the engine. Then I got the low oil pressure message. I’ve changed the oil from 5w40 to 5w30, oil valve soldenoid, the message still appeared. Then I’ve noticed this appears when the idle rpm goes low, usually it was 704rpm. So I’ve raised the idle rpm to ~780 with inpa and did 500kms with no warning. I hope it did a trick.
Replaced oil pressure sensor couple months ago, error didn’t come back. Hopfuly the issue is solved 🤞
@@milosjevtic880 Hello, what is the latest situation? is the problem solved?
@mustafatoker5491 Problem is solved. Error didn’t come back since I’ve repleced the sensor
I have a 2015 bmw n26, “Engine oil pressure too low” I ran the code it says my 1c0301 “Oil Pressure control valve Jams in full Energized position” Can i clean the valve with spray from auto zone? I change my oil every 4k miles but i lagged my last oil change. I get this warning when i speed at high rpms, Just warning no engine knock or issues…
To be honest just replace it. Once crap gets past that filter screen its goosed. What goes in rarely comes out. You can try throttle cleaner but the way I used to clean solenoids is energise them with a PWM controller immersed in liquid.
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding One sensor $180 lol
@silentescape818xsfvla8 I know mate - nothing is cheap is it these days 😌 Try cleaning you might get lucky. I hope it aint stuck as in my video
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding How do i go about cleaning it?
@silentescape818xsfvla8 Carb cleaner. Spray it in the end and in through the screen filter meshes. Invert it so fluid drains out. Did you remove it yet? If its full of metal cleaning may not help.
hey. i think your video has helped me - my 2008 1 series N43 1181 with only 52k on clock just got the low pressure red oil warning light........ hoping my mechanics can watch this and see if it helps. You are a great mechanic! from your video the mechanic needs to 1. plugin the car to the compouter and check the engine oil pressure. 2. look at the oil in the sump and see what the volume is. Should be about 4.2l? 3. If there's metal in the oil then the valve - oil pressure control valve - needs changing. And engine needs cleaning out to clean metal out of galleries. Do you thing it's worth changing the chain and tensioners too? Also how much would that come to at Jo average mechanics? :-) if only you were in South London....
Hi Ali 🙂 We would charge about 3k. Yes, the main thing is to check the valve as if its bad more than likely swarf will return. Change the chain and guides if you find the timing is a bit out and if you find orange plastic bits when you take sump off. Dont forget basics first as even a damaged oil cap can play havoc with oil pressure. But yep. Full renovation and flush oil galleries out👍
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding thank you very much. the car is worth 3.5k so it might be non economic to repair..... i'll get them to look in the oil first.
No worries Ali. I am still growing this community channel and If it helps to educate and improve the chances of first time fixing then it will have achieved its goal. Best of luck with the repair, Ali 👍
I had my timing chain done coil pack plugs water pump £1500 then 2 weeks later oil pump went! Engine hasn't seized but noise sounds like coming from oil pump area? Guy at garage said engine damage but it still starts and drives but haven't driven more than a few feet! Is it just the pump or worse cheers pal
Hi Jamie. Sorry to hear that you spent so much and then it went the wrong way. Well without knowing the mechanics, or what they changed it would be difficult to make a guess but if you can start it up for a few seconds then video it by all means you may e/mail the video and I will try to see what the issue is. Was the oil pump chain and tensioner also replaced? Was the OIL VALVE removed as in this video and cleaned out? Is the oil pressure light illuminating? A check of the oil pressure is important as is also the type of sound, main bearings or what not would indicate a problem with oil pressure. THe oil pump if it breaks means you have zero oil pressure so hopefully that isnt the case. Mahybe you should thinmk of taking it back to the garage who did the repair also. But send me the video and I will try my best to give you some answers :)
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding hi thanks for replying yep oil light on noise from pump like a chain sound! Think I've left it to long to take back its been Stud 8 months 😕and it doesn't help when it's someone I know 🙄if it had been a ramdem garage at the time November I would have kicked up a stink because it all seems a bit suspect?? Haven't had sump off yet but I'm sure that could tell a story if they didn't put things together correctly!
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding just curriosty how much to repair engine worse case scenario? Or try another oil pump and see if that works?
@@Jackfrost0415 Well it all depends if the crank is buggered or not as these engines like to chew main bearings when they run out of oil pressure. If the timing chain and oil pump sprockets are tight then maybe the oil pump chain snapped? If the timing side was loose you would have bent valves if it soun the timing out so I think you dotn have that. It might be a case of no drive to the oil pump mate. First steps is to see why there is no oil pressure. Pulling the sump off is the best bet in my opnion. Of course you can always check the valve as in my video but they usually dont cause the engine to be noisy etc. My money is on a snapped oil pump chain or a blocked pump pick up pipe. Cost? Well if the crank was okay then you could replace the oil pressure parts and try your luck. If the crank or crank nose is damaged due to slipping friction sprockets you would be as well getting another motor from a scrap yard buddy. No idea on cost pal.
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding OK cheers for advice I'll let you know ASAP 😕
Top video
Thanks alot 🙂
I had a e90 with a n43 oil pressure light mostly on highway.. very bad stationair running. Got it in bmw garage there was metal in the oild very much oil filter full of it. Cilinder 1 got stuck.. put a whole new engine in again. Had the same problem! Did the garage put it together wrong i dont know. They did the engine again for the 3th time. So 6months later i have my car back. Engine stalls when i dont have my airconditioning on. So it runs lower rpm sp engine shuts of all the time. Sold it. So much money loss. Got a b38 now f20. Dit i have too much bad luck are these really this bad? Sorry for bad English.
Your English is fine 🙂👍 Yes you had bad luck mate. B38 ok only main issue is faulty breather in cam cover but you would notice it will start to use too much oil when breather fails. It should be ok tho. Any issues come back here and I will try to advise you. Fingers crossed you have no problems 👍
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding thank you! But im thinking buying a e90 again but it has to be a petrol with n43 again because of tax en emissions.. im from Europe Belgium. Would you recommend it to buy another car with the n43? Or keep my b38.
@@tuffgong3248 Keep what you have mate 🙂
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding i should be happy with my f20. But i like the e90 so much 😅 but thanks for your advice!
How many miles had this engine done before this fault happened?
No idea prob around 160,00 km but it can happen even at lower mileages
really congratulations, thanks to your videos, I'm rebuilding an N43B20 of a 120i. more or less the same components to replace as yours, crankshaft, connecting rods, and cam polishing. I have a question: I haven't marked the position of the valve lifters (cod. 11337548690) and they are mixed up, do you think it's a problem to reassemble them not in the same position? Thank you. Cristian from Italy
Hi Cristian. It isn't ideal but in all honesty I would consider replacing them all but as they are expensive I understand you may not want to spend money replacing them. Just keep them upright to avoid oil loss. Should be ok buddy.
Mate brilliant video very informative and very fucking helpful mate thank you
😅👍 Glad to hear it. Please feel free to watch my other videos
@allmech_BMW_fault_finding don't worry I.will I have 318i e91 had same light changed solenoid light came back after an hour so hopefully this fixes it
@@allmech_BMW_fault_finding ok so iv done that sensor and still got oil light on dash and oil pressure static any suggestions??
And just to add iv already rebuilt the engine and I cleaned the pick up pipe when I did the rebuild
@jamesmarnell934 You need to physically measure the oil pressure to see what it is exactly. The usual cause of this is also bits of broken plastic from the timing chain guides partially blocking the suction pipe of the oil pump. If you cant clear it with a new pressure control valve it becomes very difficult to remedy. Usually there is metal everywhere from the timing chain and its not possible to clear without a full rebuild.
Did you replace the oil pressure control valve as in my video? If so was there lots of metal? Oil pressure switch may contain metal also so worth taking it off and cleaning out but oil pressure measurement is needed
My N43 has the 30C1 fault for oil pressure but no dashboard light. When warm it has a slight bottom end knock on acceleration - I guess from low oil pressure. If this solenoid just failed then would the engine run at all ? My sump was removed recently and all clean in pickup. If solenoid fails it runs at 1 bar or something only ? Is it worth my replacing it ? Tha ks!
If it fails and assuming the oil pump is working there will in fact be maximum oil pressure. The knock at the bottom end, if the knock is heavy, would suggest main bearings are worn and I have seen quite many of those on the N43 over the years.
Like I tell everyone - you need to measure the oil pressure with a pukka oil pressure gauge and determine exactly what oil pressure exists. Until you know that it will remain a guessing game.
If you whip of the alternator you can simply use a T piece from a dedicated kit and this way you can leave the oil pressure sensor connected to avoid cc messages as you blatter it down the dual carriageway with an assistant monitoring the oil pressure. Thats what you need to do👍
For an E90 318i 2.0 gas the "Low oil pressure" symptom manifests like this and only on mountain roads after you climb the road and you have some swirls and immediately on a plane surface you stop the car the warning appears. If I stop engine and restart everything is ok. I drove after that for another 1000 km without any warning but only on flat roads. What can be the cause? So only climbing and after that full stop on a plane surface.
Suction blockage to the oil pump due ti debris in the sump maybe. Oil sump is baffled but on a hill as you said it triggers it so I would look at what condition your chain is in. Plastic tends to end up in that suction pick up pipe gauze filter.