Go buy some gasket maker and just outline it and make a gasket for it so it is water tight. Or even liquid gasket like silicone used on water pumps. Also you should use some epoxy to adhere the piece on the barrel. The designer must have a reason for it but I agree it should be fixed, solid. How does it work now? I haven't seen the other videos yet 1 and 2.
Could you add a paper gasket to basicly make a small spacer so you didnt have to do all the grinding to the lid and arm? I like you attention to detail. Good job!
I like that idea better than gasket maker so you don't have to reapply it everytime you open it up to clean it. That will also allow a bit extra room inside to prevent the scraping. Still think it would be wise to file or grind the gasket surface flat though otherwise it would eventually tear the gasket. I now use the cnc ones if these that they started selling recently because they fixed almost every issue I brought up so check those out if your in the market. I think I've posted the link in a reply already. Thanks!!!
I've been using these for years and they work great. Mine have all been Moose brand and they work perfect with no modification except that I lightly grease the inside. I can pull the clutch with my pinky. I will say that all of mine look better machined/molded than the one in this video. Maybe they have changed manufacturers (China?). Incidentally the three different positions are for different levels of tension and travel. Some people actually don't like a super easy pull but would rather be able to feel the clutch a little more.
metalwheelz; This is probably a bad copy of the Moose then. It still works great and I won't ride without one on a cable actuated clutch ever again, I just see so many simple ways they could have manufactured it to be better! I just bought a cnc'd one from china and ill post a comparison when i get it. I guess on newer bikes that are already easier to pull the clutch in I could see how what you are saying about the adjustment and how it makes sense, they just want it a tad easier to pull. Personally I've never felt a clutch that was too easy to pull but I could see it being possible.
I like all the improvements implemented by the video originator and adding some kind of compatible lubricant would help. I also think that making those last 2 holes one bit slot between them might help and allow the arm to seek its own height based on the center alignment of the cables. Just a thought. It also looks like the manufacturer should angle the cable mounts slightly to better align the cable with the end of the cable mount as it sits in the housing. It seems to me that the inventor did not use a good CAD program that simulates exactly how things would align. If anyone tries a slot I sure would like to hear any comments on their results.
Hey Ken , Thanks for commenting. I just ordered a new style of these that recently came out on ebay and guess what, all the recommendations I made they fixed and I mean literally every exact one so who knows maybe they pay attention to youtube reviews. I did a test a while back without the pin and then on the top pin and got the same exact pull rates but out of using the pin in the 3 holes the top had the best results. Mine didn't come with instructions so I was just going by feel and I still like the action of it without the pin, feels smoother to me just the slightest and I have probably put a couple hundred hours on it and no sign of any wear or other negative consequences. I'll do a review soon on the new one I received because it's cnc'd aluminum with stainless hardware and works really nice out of the box.
Ken Kaiser , Here's the one I bought but I haven't rode more than around the yard with it yet so keep that in mind. ebay.com/itm/CNC-Easy-Pull-Clutch-Activator-for-Triumph-Scrambler-Bonneville-Tiger-800-1050-/192059353047?
So can you feel any difference from stock to this add on? Is it worth the time and money? I have a banshee with heavy duty springs and want to reduce arm pump. Also did you fill this up with grease?
Yes it's way easier to pull with it, can't ride without one now. I recommend this one they basically did every mod I talked about in the 3 part review so it's alot better than the one in the review: www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motorcycle-Stunt-Clutch-Pull-Cable-Replacement-Easy-System-Honda-Yamaha/162980257356?
I admire your stick to itness. You shoud make them and market them your self and to heck with these wise A comments KUDO'S to ya kid. stick with it.Guys like you are what made America. When Ya get it figured All out let me know I need something for an old gimp hand for a big V twin cruiser
Thanks Brother, much appreciated! For a Harley check out this product in the link below in case you haven't seen it already. I was going to buy one but it seems like it is made for your type of bike plus I finally got this one in the video sorted to where it works fine for my needs so I passed but these ones in the links below look to have decent reviews, although not sure the difference in the two. www.jpcycles.com/product/620-745 www.jpcycles.com/product/631-485 My Dad's getting up there in age and still rides street and dirt but occasionally has some wrist strength issue so I also modified his clutch springs by putting washers inside the clutch springs under the bolt heads that hold the springs in place. This is so that when you pull the clutch, the springs aren't compressing as much therefore it is easier to pull. You can tune it to your liking by using more than one washer or even by using thinner or thicker washers. If you lighten it too much the clutch slips too much but if you play with different combinations you can get it dialed in to where it's easier to pull and the tad bit of slippage is only noticeable when starting from a complete stop so it's worthwhile trade off. I brainstormed this idea and not sure if it's a known mod or not but I haven't seen this on youtube yet so maybe one day I'll put a video up of it. It's sort of hard to explain but very simple and can be done on almost all motorcycle clutches. You just need to find washers smaller than the inside diameter of the clutch springs but the center hole in the washer needs to be larger than the diameter on the bolt shafts that hold the springs in place. Hopefully one of these ideas helps you get riding more or at least riding with more ease!
Yeah I had good luck with this one, www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Easy-Pull-Clutch-Activator-for-Triumph-Scrambler-Bonneville-Tiger-800-1050-/192059353047 unfortunately it comes from China but they have corrected all the things I addressed in the video. Just keep the spare cable section that they give you on the bike at all times along with the small allen key because I had one fail before and it left me stranded. Could have been a fluke but besides that it is alot better.
That's a good idea, thanks for the out of the box thinking rather than, "throw some grease on there". Luckily I have upgraded bikes recently and my 2015 yz250fx and 2017 fc250 both have light clutch pulls so I don't use these anymore besides my 2 stroke which if you follow me can watch the is in pieces right now as a build has begun. I will give that a shot on my yz250 once I get there though!
@@mxfreaks Just ordered one of the CNC versions you referred to below for my 1986 Honda 200 Reflex. I'm gonna be teaching my wife to ride on it and I'm sure she'll appreciate the reduced pull. New subscriber. Thanks.
Yes thanks in the first video I mentioned that I had pulled it out cause it felt smoother to me without it. I have since moved on to Hydro clutches and don't miss cables fraying and snapping and cable adjustments constantly getting out of whack. Don't think I can ever go back to cable clutches.
The pivot pin is missing
HI JB , I ordered one last week, I hope they have improved them. Wish I saw your vid first though.
Go buy some gasket maker and just outline it and make a gasket for it so it is water tight. Or even liquid gasket like silicone used on water pumps. Also you should use some epoxy to adhere the piece on the barrel. The designer must have a reason for it but I agree it should be fixed, solid. How does it work now? I haven't seen the other videos yet 1 and 2.
Could you add a paper gasket to basicly make a small spacer so you didnt have to do all the grinding to the lid and arm? I like you attention to detail. Good job!
I like that idea better than gasket maker so you don't have to reapply it everytime you open it up to clean it. That will also allow a bit extra room inside to prevent the scraping. Still think it would be wise to file or grind the gasket surface flat though otherwise it would eventually tear the gasket. I now use the cnc ones if these that they started selling recently because they fixed almost every issue I brought up so check those out if your in the market. I think I've posted the link in a reply already. Thanks!!!
I've been using these for years and they work great. Mine have all been Moose brand and they work perfect with no modification except that I lightly grease the inside. I can pull the clutch with my pinky. I will say that all of mine look better machined/molded than the one in this video. Maybe they have changed manufacturers (China?). Incidentally the three different positions are for different levels of tension and travel. Some people actually don't like a super easy pull but would rather be able to feel the clutch a little more.
metalwheelz; This is probably a bad copy of the Moose then. It still works great and I won't ride without one on a cable actuated clutch ever again, I just see so many simple ways they could have manufactured it to be better! I just bought a cnc'd one from china and ill post a comparison when i get it. I guess on newer bikes that are already easier to pull the clutch in I could see how what you are saying about the adjustment and how it makes sense, they just want it a tad easier to pull. Personally I've never felt a clutch that was too easy to pull but I could see it being possible.
I like all the improvements implemented by the video originator and adding some kind of compatible lubricant would help.
I also think that making those last 2 holes one bit slot between them might help and allow the arm to seek its own height based on the center alignment of the cables. Just a thought.
It also looks like the manufacturer should angle the cable mounts slightly to better align the cable with the end of the cable mount as it sits in the housing.
It seems to me that the inventor did not use a good CAD program that simulates exactly how things would align.
If anyone tries a slot I sure would like to hear any comments on their results.
Hey Ken , Thanks for commenting. I just ordered a new style of these that recently came out on ebay and guess what, all the recommendations I made they fixed and I mean literally every exact one so who knows maybe they pay attention to youtube reviews. I did a test a while back without the pin and then on the top pin and got the same exact pull rates but out of using the pin in the 3 holes the top had the best results. Mine didn't come with instructions so I was just going by feel and I still like the action of it without the pin, feels smoother to me just the slightest and I have probably put a couple hundred hours on it and no sign of any wear or other negative consequences. I'll do a review soon on the new one I received because it's cnc'd aluminum with stainless hardware and works really nice out of the box.
JB203561...
I will look forward to a new review. Got a sales link to the new one? Thanks!
Ken Kaiser , Here's the one I bought but I haven't rode more than around the yard with it yet so keep that in mind. ebay.com/itm/CNC-Easy-Pull-Clutch-Activator-for-Triumph-Scrambler-Bonneville-Tiger-800-1050-/192059353047?
So can you feel any difference from stock to this add on? Is it worth the time and money? I have a banshee with heavy duty springs and want to reduce arm pump. Also did you fill this up with grease?
Yes it's way easier to pull with it, can't ride without one now. I recommend this one they basically did every mod I talked about in the 3 part review so it's alot better than the one in the review: www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motorcycle-Stunt-Clutch-Pull-Cable-Replacement-Easy-System-Honda-Yamaha/162980257356?
The top pin is the lightest one.
It pivots to reduce cable Flex. .....if the cable flexes it will break in short time.
I admire your stick to itness. You shoud make them and market them your self and to heck with these wise A comments KUDO'S to ya kid. stick with it.Guys like you are what made America. When Ya get it figured All out let me know I need something for an old gimp hand for a big V twin cruiser
Thanks Brother, much appreciated! For a Harley check out this product in the link below in case you haven't seen it already. I was going to buy one but it seems like it is made for your type of bike plus I finally got this one in the video sorted to where it works fine for my needs so I passed but these ones in the links below look to have decent reviews, although not sure the difference in the two.
www.jpcycles.com/product/620-745 www.jpcycles.com/product/631-485
My Dad's getting up there in age and still rides street and dirt but occasionally has some wrist strength issue so I also modified his clutch springs by putting washers inside the clutch springs under the bolt heads that hold the springs in place. This is so that when you pull the clutch, the springs aren't compressing as much therefore it is easier to pull. You can tune it to your liking by using more than one washer or even by using thinner or thicker washers. If you lighten it too much the clutch slips too much but if you play with different combinations you can get it dialed in to where it's easier to pull and the tad bit of slippage is only noticeable when starting from a complete stop so it's worthwhile trade off. I brainstormed this idea and not sure if it's a known mod or not but I haven't seen this on youtube yet so maybe one day I'll put a video up of it. It's sort of hard to explain but very simple and can be done on almost all motorcycle clutches. You just need to find washers smaller than the inside diameter of the clutch springs but the center hole in the washer needs to be larger than the diameter on the bolt shafts that hold the springs in place. Hopefully one of these ideas helps you get riding more or at least riding with more ease!
Do you happen to know of an updated model? I want to try one on my Harley before I give up ridding.
Yeah I had good luck with this one, www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Easy-Pull-Clutch-Activator-for-Triumph-Scrambler-Bonneville-Tiger-800-1050-/192059353047 unfortunately it comes from China but they have corrected all the things I addressed in the video. Just keep the spare cable section that they give you on the bike at all times along with the small allen key because I had one fail before and it left me stranded. Could have been a fluke but besides that it is alot better.
You could solder the piece that wobbles onto the cable so it stays put.
That's a good idea, thanks for the out of the box thinking rather than, "throw some grease on there". Luckily I have upgraded bikes recently and my 2015 yz250fx and 2017 fc250 both have light clutch pulls so I don't use these anymore besides my 2 stroke which if you follow me can watch the is in pieces right now as a build has begun. I will give that a shot on my yz250 once I get there though!
@@mxfreaks Just ordered one of the CNC versions you referred to below for my 1986 Honda 200 Reflex. I'm gonna be teaching my wife to ride on it and I'm sure she'll appreciate the reduced pull. New subscriber. Thanks.
The pivot pin is important you know ?
The clutch just felt smoother with out it so I went with it!
What's in your nose?!
I plead the 5th
made in china
It’s missing the pivot pin
Yes thanks in the first video I mentioned that I had pulled it out cause it felt smoother to me without it. I have since moved on to Hydro clutches and don't miss cables fraying and snapping and cable adjustments constantly getting out of whack. Don't think I can ever go back to cable clutches.