Fantabulous! I used to read the real life tech stories in Radio Electronics magazine's. This is just like it. Love every one of your demo/repairs. I learned from National Radio Institute and though they were wonderful but there is no experience like what you described from your instructor rigging sets for repair as you mentioned. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Will be doing some more. As you said nothing like seeing the symptom, and the troubleshooting needed to resolve the problem. I used to read Radio Electronics back in the day too, and Nuts and Volts, remember that rag?
You explain stuff very well, I can see the experience behind the explanations. I had a set with a red screen too, and in that TV it was the CRT which was bad. I found that using a different trick - I desoldered one leg of the resistor in the collector circuit of the video output transistor of the faulty channel and saw that nothing changed. Then I did a little research on the web and ended up making my own winding for the heaters, few turns of wire on the open section of the core on the flyback. I measured the amplitude of the voltage on the heaters beforehand and just tweaked the number of turns to match the original value. Doesn't look very pretty, but keeps the thing out of a landfill. Which is good, because the CRT in there was a nice strong one.
That would work, but I didn't have such device to hand and it will be a shame to overvolt the filament on the nice strong CRT. I would've used one if I had it, but I would've added a resistor to drop the voltage back down, again, it was a strong tube. I wouldn't bother if the tube was on its last legs. It's a great idea to use this set as a learning rig, I like these videos. The first one about the bad cap was especially interesting for me because I didn't come across such problem yet.
What we usually did the same. A few turns around the flyback as you did as tube brighteners don't work peoperly on flyback wound filament circuits, but they did work great on older sets, and those ones were generally on their last legs. We would get these old console sets that weren't worth fixing, but the owner was in love with it because it was a piece of furniture, and they insisted on it being fixed but didn't want to spring for a new tube. This would get them out of my hair for awhile until the tube gave out completely.
know your teaching class, I love this type of troubleshooting, you know a guy could learn a lot from you just by watching your video. I WATCH ALL OF YOUR VIDEO,OF COURSE I READ A LOT.BUT IT SIMPLIFY MATTER A LOT.IF YOU CAN SHOW US HOW YOU TEST DIFFERENT COMPONENTS WITH YOUR METER IT WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL.THANKS A LOT.
Even better, have someone you know (who's an electronics tech) "fiddle" with the set and create a fault, then give you the set back without telling you what they did. Then see if you can diagnose/fix the problem. It's more challenging when you don't know beforehand what the problem is! :)
William Squires that's what the instructors did back in school. I think I have demonstrated in the hundreds of other videos that I have troubleshoot. the first one on this set was such. bad series capacitor with color xtal causing no color. I have other broken sets to troubleshoot. just while this one is apart I have created a few common failures to show the procedures to quickly find a fault. Even though when I create the fault it doesn't require me to do serious diagnosing this is more of the educational value to viewers how to localize the fault and fix it. As I said I get enough real repairs so I don't need to prove that I know what I am doing, but these "staged" faults still provide learning opportunities for those wanting to learn this fascinating skill, and it is really cool when you fix your first trouble. Just like the thrill I got when I built those tube amplifiers. start out with a bag of parts and have a unique piece that you can't buy in the store when you are done. brings me back to my heathkit days. speaking of heathkit. I have a heathkit receiver to fix on a future video.
Hey so I've been trying to repair an old computer monitor and this video and the schematic got me through verifying that the tube is good, cathodes are not shorted, transistors are good, and that no video signal is making it to the video output transistors. Now to dig deeper! Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the videos. Keep them coming. My dad owned a repair shop back in the early 90s. I was only 10 to 12 years old (don't remember exactly). My job has nothing to do with electronics though. He was always against me being a technician, like him. He didn't want his son to "use a screwdriver". That was his saying back then. Now I m a baker. I guess he was wrong. Being a technician is a better job. At least my salary is almost the same as his was, above average. But my gutts say that I was born a technician, not a baker. Too late now :(
I hear you. I was encouraged when I was young to learn a trade. My dad always said if you have a trade, you will have a job for life.I repaired electronics for 20 years as a career, but the industry was changing, so I got out 13 years ago, but used my skill set to get into the work I do now, as a telecom tech. I have tried encouraging my son to learn a trade, but he has no interest in any type of work that involves using tools. He works in retail. No future in that I am afraid due to online shopping, but he hasn't figured that out yet.
My dad was aware of the progress of the electronics. He knew that the parts are getting smaller and smaller. Fixed parts and smaller pcb's were his nightmare. I understand him. But technicians will exist forever. No matter what. It 'll be the same aproach but with different solutions. It might even be a cleaner and healthier profession. The only thing that bugs me is that I was forced to do something completely strange to me. Even though I was born a technician. Sorry for my english. I did the best I could.
I hear you. I had plenty of support in my decision to go into electronics, however it threw up many roadblocksBuying my house was an absolute nightmare. Even though I had saved over 50% of the cost, and had worked for 10 years in the shop, and could show my income for the prior 10 years 3 banks in a row would not approve me for a mortgage because they were worried that I wouldn't have a job in the future. They all said that it was a job with no future. They were right 10 years later. If I had gone into broadcast engineering things would have been different, but consumer electronics has always had a target painted on it.
12voltvids Building a house! Poeple work for a lifetime before they build their own. By the time they achieve it, they are at their 60s. Same goal for every citizen, in every country. Same thing in the 80s, 90s, 2000, 2050. I asked my dad (a few years back), how did he manage and raised us. He replied that wasn't sure about tomorrow. If he would keep his job. Didn't know what the future will bring. Built his house brick by brick. Without banks. It was tough for a few years. But it was less stressful for him. He has retired. He 's 65 years old now. Now I must prove worthy and have a successful life. I 'm unsure about the future too. Who knows?
I hear you. Heck I wasn't trying to build a house. I was just trying to buy an old one in 93. That was a challenge working in a TV repair shop. I tore that house apart and rebuilt it in 2003 and left the TV repair business the same year. I don't have to worry now, as my current job isn't likely to go anywhere. There is a huge demand for internet and TV, and I don't see that changing any time soon. Figure I will work another 8 years or so and then retire. As a good friend of my says, I want to have some time to enjoy the finer things in life before I cash in my chips for good.
Love your videos mate, really clear and helpful. I'm up against a Commodore 1081 repair at present. It has no display but does have HV/scan etc. I've traced signal through it from input to neck board, I see that the waveform maintains its shape all the way to the driver transistors on the neck board, their output looks completely different though. The output shape also doesn't seem vary regardless of the input. Is this normal? (Those transistors test good, at least basic diode/short testing)
CRT Tube Rejuvenators RGB Cutoffs are adjusting the G2 voltage/Screen voltage which the CRT tube Rejuvenator is measuring the current of the G2 grid? the Rejuvenators RGB cutoff displays are a measurement of the G2 grid current?
I have a 28 inch Toshiba crt TV that had a blown fuse and kept on blowing fuses instantly. I connected it trough the dim bulb tester and it was making a popping noise like something is arcing internally. It could not be high voltage because HOT was taken out for testing purposes. The fuse that was blown was one for the switching power supply on the board. So what could be arcing internally ??? I don't see any shorts with my dmm or any flashes... Could it be arcing smps transformer ???
I long for those old TV days and even have a room full of nice old TVS but nobody wants them. I used to fix old video games and nobody plays them. A lost skill.
Should you set the screen as high as you can so you just about won't get the colour and retrace lines or should you turn it down a bit? I have a 14 inch CRT here for old games and the focus was awful on it until I set it but I turned the screen one thinking it would just get brighter, it doesn't though and seems to just automatically change back to the same brightness after an adjustment. Sometimes the screen will flash bright on changing refresh rates then fade dark again with it set that high but I'm not sure where to set it. It's a Beko E1 chassis I think. It also doesn't have enough overscan horizontally and the left side has a slight bow inwards but I'm not sure whether you can adjust those and I don't want to blow myself up lol.
15:52 Contrast(drive) should be set in the middle, not the max. That's what wore out so many otherwise good picture tubes. Then you use brightness(bias) to see details in dark areas of the picture.
@@12voltvids Which generation of CRT we talking? I could get a decently bright picture on a more recent tube, twenty years ago when a 2004 TV was new. I'd drop the contrast to the midpoint, then move brighteness up and down until I saw details in the darker parts of the image - that's what Brightness controls. The darker parts. It's like the master bias. I did calibrations back in the day.
@@Zickcermacity tubes started getting darker glass in the 90s. If you compare a TV from the 70s the glass was literally clear. The screen looked white when turned off. TV's always were cranked up at the factory because on display the brightest tv draws the eye to it. The proper way to set up a TV is with a smpte color bar generator with the 7.5ire pedistil reference in the black. You turned the color off turned the contrast and brightness (black level) to max. The. Dialed the black level down to the point that the 7.5ire bar was just visible. The 0 and 5ire were both black. Then bring the contrast back to a comfortable viewing level. Next you killed the red and green guns (or used your blue filter to view. Increase the color level to the split bars on the blue / white (end bars) was the same level and the tint so the cyan / magenta was the same on their split bar. I think I did a video on this many years ago.
@@12voltvids That alignment preocedure (correct name for it not 'calibration') sounds right. Today of course, with modern flat screens, there's about a hundred different 'enhancers' I gotta disable in the Advance Picture menus before even beginning to do what you enumerated. None of that crap is standard broadcast or monitor material, all marketing gimmicks. And the real shame of it is, the general public just assumes that Vivid or Dynamic mode is how "HD" is supposed to look. Then when they see it correct, they don't like it and want the torch setting back. My biggest frustration with setup isn't the setup itself, but un-screwing up peoples' minds about what constitutes a proper standard or hi-def picture. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" is their motto, even if the flat screen WILL be broke a lot sooner if left in Store mode or Dynamic.
@@Zickcermacity the fast majority will never like the correct calibration and you will never get 2 people that see the picture the same. My stereo system doesn't even have bass and trebble adjustments. It's flat all the way through the chain. To me it sounds fantastic but everyone that listens thinks it needs more bass or treble added. I set my plasma up with color bar generator and to me it looks fantastic but to someone else it would be too dark for their liking. That's just the way it is.
I’ve got a later model Toshiba CRT, a flat screen all in one with DVD and VHS, and those work fine but the RGB inputs give a constant scrolling distortion across the screen that makes the tv unusable for what I’m trying to do. Any ideas?
The component input is probably 480i only. If your device puts out a 480p signal it won't display properly as 480p uses a higher horizontal scan frequency.
You plugged in power using an isolation transformer, then connect a grounded scope LEAD to the CRT? Are there different ground potentials being utilized that are isolated from each other?
Thanks, Watched another of your video's titled "Toshiba CRT TV No color video repair" where you explained into detail why your scope is grounded SHOWING your ISO Xformer. GREAT.
Ground pin on scope is cut. I can externally ground it if needed however the device under test is still isolated. The secondary on isolation transformer is floating. Therefore contact with either side to ground will do nothing. Normally the neutral is bonded to ground so a path from the hot side to ground will wither shock you or damage test equipment. By having both the hot and neutral physically isolated from earth you remove that risk.
@@12voltvids , Makes sense, I measured continuity from both AC line input pins on my scope to the GROUND pin & THEY EACH READ OPEN.. your scope is utilizing "isolated secondary neutral" as reference on its BNC connector.... .I can only assume, I must use my CraftyMech for CRT troubleshooting,.cause my game board supplies along with R.G.B. signals, A "GROUND POTENTIAL" to THE CRT,, so back to my first thought ,multiple grounds,1 floating and 1 there for signal reference's from the game board.
Are we looking at a CRT driver board with 10 transistors if so it is likely that the output stages are Class A output yes a shorted transistor could cause this condition or a burnt out 56k feedback to the bottom transistor no bias in that the bottom transistor cannot turn on to control the voltage to the plate or the diode from the base of the top transistor to the collector of the bottom transistor or the diode between the emitter of the top transistor and the collector of the bottom transistor where the two diodes come together would that cause the same fault.
What would cause a TV to show a white raster with retrace lines? This shows the solution for one color. I'm asking because I have a TV that has a wite raster with retrace lines. There is a video on my CZcams channel if you want to see it. The TV is a Zenith from the early 80's.
Loss of screen or video output b+ voltage. Check the voltage on the 3 cathode. Should be between 130 and 150v. If low there is your problem. If ok check screen voltage. Could be tube but usually that results is a single color
Friend, I need your help. I been trying to make a composite video generation circuit with basic logic IC's (74HC series). I use ripple counters to count the lines and columns and then use logic gates to compare the outputs from the counters and check when to output the SYNC signals (0V). However, when I input the counters into the logic gates, most outputs become a mess! The signals are not stable. Why would this be ?
i have a sony trinitron KV-AR 29M68 tv having a problem of picture shrink horizontal 4 inches from the right what could be defect in the horizontal section thank u
@@12voltvids Interesting. I just checked and there are only two big transistors right next to each other, mounted on their own heat sinks. Again, only two... Could one transistor be functioning for two colors?
To set the bias or low light as some TVs call it, you set your master screen for a faint white line, and adjust the bias controls (low light) to get the line white. this balances the 3 guns for minimum picture or sets the bias for each cathode. The drive, or highlite control adjusts the red and blue balance to produce a white picture on a bright white portion of the picture.
Hi, I have a Toshiba XV48DT-K-TB I am hoping someone can advise me on? it's been used on a regular basis. But I came to record on the Hard Drive the other day, pressed record, and a red record light appeared, 'blinking' on the bottom left of my screen, and it just won't record? I tried to Dub a recording to DVD, and the same thing happened. I would be most grateful if anyone could advise a possible solution. Someone may have come across this problem. I thought at first the hard drive was full, but no, it's not that.
Most crts I’ve worked on have never had actual pots for rgb bias, if they don’t have pots does that mean it’s in a service menu instead? My toshiba has a red tint, it was completely red with retrace lines but I touched up some dry looking joints and now it’s just a red tinge across the whole image
@@12voltvids so as a rule of thumb would you say there's always an adjustment, and whether it's done via pots or a service menu is by how old the set it? or just how they chose to design it?
@@clarkjames1510 There is always an adjustment. Older sets used pots to set the screen and drive. Newer sets it was in a special service menu. The last generation of ctr sets use akb auto kine bias. They would automatically adjust and compensate for age and kept the picture perfect untill the tube was worn out.
i have a crt trinitron sony tv AR 29KV 68M model which is having problem of left side horizontal width reduced by about 5 inches,how to repair this tv.i have schematic for this tv thank u.
I got the same set namely a Toshiba Colour TV model 1400RN. I was looking for the schematics for such set online, but I was unable to find them. I know this must be a bit too much to ask but would you be so kind to share the schematics you have of this set? I would be immensely grateful to you if you could.
Schematic? I don't have a schematic. I don't have any. I have a few old Sony VCR manuals. I had boxes of Sam's and RCC mauals when i left the business in 2003 but i dumped them years ago. I regret that now but when I tossed them i wasn't doing any repair work and had no interest in doing any.
@@12voltvids I see. Thanks for the fast reply, and sorry if I bothered you, but I saw from the video that you had some sort of schematics printed on a paper sheet and I thought that you might had the schematics for it, my bad, it was worth trying. Anyhow thanks to your video I managed to fix the issue with my set, which was basically stuck with a blue screen, thank you again! : )
@@heidiichigo-san3927 I Google and see what I can find. Many schematics are available if you look. Unfortunately sometimes it takes longer to find a schematic than to fix it unit.
hello sir good day... I have Samsung crt TV problem is there's no pictures but there is sounds and blue screen only please help me what is the possible problem this one sir... thanks a lot sir
They are coming from an old ENG TV camera. I was goven an old Sony DXC1800 and have it feeding into a TV modulator that puts it on channel 13 that feeds into the TV. Its an old single tube camera not much good for anything, but the bar generator makes it a keeper, and it looks cool. I have a few other cameras with bar genrerators in the too. All the pro stuff has them built in for color matching in multi camera use.
Hi there, I really enjoy your videos. I have an unrelated question and any input would be very appreciated. I still record programs from TV using my VCR and I have been experiencing issues with my current set-up for some time and am puzzled. I have had Dish Network with an HD receiver for a little over a year and have noticed that I am getting poor quality recordings most of the time. The contrast of the picture will change sporadically from light to dark with no affect to the audio (it doesn't always start to do it from the beginning and often times will stop for several minutes at a time or sop completely after several minutes). Sometimes I can record a show for an hour and it will play back fine and then other programming from the same channel will do this. I have tried multiple VCRs (all Sony) and they all do it so I really don't think the VCR is at fault. Commercial video tapes play fine with no affect ever. I have done some research and it sounds like Macrovision may be at fault but I contacted Dish Network and of course they were clueless. Do you think that is what is going on here, if not do you have any suggestions? I am getting thoroughly frustrated here! I suspect the cable networks are trying to kill the VCR and force people to buy their DVRs. Prior to this I had a DirecTv receiver for 6 years with non-HD and an off-air connection to the VCR and never had any issues recording.
You answered your own question. MACROVISION.All the current digital boxes have macrovision generators built in, and the option to enable or disable macrovision is totally dependent on the video content. Buried in the digital video signal is a flag to enable or disable macrovision. Dish, Direct, Comcast, Shaw, Bell, Telus ect have no way to control this signal. They simply pass the program on to the subscriber. The content owner is in total control. I have the same problem if I try to record from channels like HBO, or the VOD programs. A macrovision scrubber or looking the video through a time base corrector will strip the signal and allow recording.I have my macrovision scrubber permanently attached to the analog output on my cable box so I can make recordings on DVD of stuff I want to keep a copy of. On a DVD recorder it won't even allow you to record, just a message comes up and says protected content cannot record.I did a video on my macrovision scrubber if you search for it.
Thanks, I'll look that up. It is very aggravating that we pay to subscribe to the channels and then they don't let us record the programming unless you pay to rent a DVR which I refuse to do. The majority of what I tape I don't even keep, I just want to watch it at a different time than the broadcast if I am not home or don't want to watch it at the time. Who in their right mind these days would even buy a program that was home recorded on a VHS tape??? I wish I had stayed with DirecTV. I have always hated Dish and now I have one more reason. My old receiver never caused this problem but I am sure that receiver is no longer available. I had a hunch to keep it in case I ever went back to DirecTv but unfortunately didn't. I will probably just eventually go to free TV as I don't watch much on TV anymore anyways. BTW, does it cause any harm to the VCR to record something being scrambled by the voltages sent by Macrovision?
No it doesn't hurt it. Macrovision just messes with the sync and video levels. Right now I am recording the movie "Sully" off the on demand service, and yes it is protected up the ying yang, however I am using my Hauppague HDPVR to record the component HD outputs onto my PC. Will put it on a USB stick to watch later on the big TV.
I've got a Sony 21" trinitron tv that I use for retro gaming, nearly 30 years old but when I turned it on the other day the is picture green, what would cause that?
Check the voltages at the collector of the video out and see if they are in the same range. If so, disconnect the green transistor. If the green goes away then you know it is something in the green drive circuit. If it remains green then either the spark gap in the tube socket has shorted, or the picture tube has shorted on the green gun.
Fantabulous! I used to read the real life tech stories in Radio Electronics magazine's. This is just like it. Love every one of your demo/repairs. I learned from National Radio Institute and though they were wonderful but there is no experience like what you described from your instructor rigging sets for repair as you mentioned. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Will be doing some more. As you said nothing like seeing the symptom, and the troubleshooting needed to resolve the problem. I used to read Radio Electronics back in the day too, and Nuts and Volts, remember that rag?
Thank you so much for the CRT repair video, please do more CRT repair videos!! I love your channel
You explain stuff very well, I can see the experience behind the explanations. I had a set with a red screen too, and in that TV it was the CRT which was bad. I found that using a different trick - I desoldered one leg of the resistor in the collector circuit of the video output transistor of the faulty channel and saw that nothing changed. Then I did a little research on the web and ended up making my own winding for the heaters, few turns of wire on the open section of the core on the flyback. I measured the amplitude of the voltage on the heaters beforehand and just tweaked the number of turns to match the original value.
Doesn't look very pretty, but keeps the thing out of a landfill. Which is good, because the CRT in there was a nice strong one.
An old trick was a picture tube brightener which was basically an isolation transformer for the heater to give it more volts and run it hotter.
That would work, but I didn't have such device to hand and it will be a shame to overvolt the filament on the nice strong CRT. I would've used one if I had it, but I would've added a resistor to drop the voltage back down, again, it was a strong tube. I wouldn't bother if the tube was on its last legs.
It's a great idea to use this set as a learning rig, I like these videos. The first one about the bad cap was especially interesting for me because I didn't come across such problem yet.
What we usually did the same. A few turns around the flyback as you did as tube brighteners don't work peoperly on flyback wound filament circuits, but they did work great on older sets, and those ones were generally on their last legs. We would get these old console sets that weren't worth fixing, but the owner was in love with it because it was a piece of furniture, and they insisted on it being fixed but didn't want to spring for a new tube. This would get them out of my hair for awhile until the tube gave out completely.
Very very clear and systematic explanation. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge
This is exactly the same malfunction which I have asked but that was about blue screen. thank you.
আমি বাংলাদেশ থেকে বলছি (nice )
know your teaching class, I love this type of troubleshooting, you know a guy could learn a lot from you just by watching your video. I WATCH ALL OF YOUR VIDEO,OF COURSE I READ A LOT.BUT IT SIMPLIFY MATTER A LOT.IF YOU CAN SHOW US HOW YOU TEST DIFFERENT COMPONENTS WITH YOUR METER IT WOULD BE VERY HELPFUL.THANKS A LOT.
Even better, have someone you know (who's an electronics tech) "fiddle" with the set and create a fault, then give you the set back without telling you what they did. Then see if you can diagnose/fix the problem. It's more challenging when you don't know beforehand what the problem is! :)
William Squires
that's what the instructors did back in school. I think I have demonstrated in the hundreds of other videos that I have troubleshoot. the first one on this set was such. bad series capacitor with color xtal causing no color. I have other broken sets to troubleshoot. just while this one is apart I have created a few common failures to show the procedures to quickly find a fault. Even though when I create the fault it doesn't require me to do serious diagnosing this is more of the educational value to viewers how to localize the fault and fix it. As I said I get enough real repairs so I don't need to prove that I know what I am doing, but these "staged" faults still provide learning opportunities for those wanting to learn this fascinating skill, and it is really cool when you fix your first trouble. Just like the thrill I got when I built those tube amplifiers. start out with a bag of parts and have a unique piece that you can't buy in the store when you are done. brings me back to my heathkit days. speaking of heathkit. I have a heathkit receiver to fix on a future video.
William Squires
Done that many times.
Hey so I've been trying to repair an old computer monitor and this video and the schematic got me through verifying that the tube is good, cathodes are not shorted, transistors are good, and that no video signal is making it to the video output transistors. Now to dig deeper! Thanks for the info!
u know that ur very important person.
Thanks for the videos. Keep them coming.
My dad owned a repair shop back in the early 90s.
I was only 10 to 12 years old (don't remember exactly).
My job has nothing to do with electronics though.
He was always against me being a technician, like him. He didn't want his son to "use a screwdriver". That was his saying back then.
Now I m a baker. I guess he was wrong. Being a technician is a better job.
At least my salary is almost the same as his was, above average.
But my gutts say that I was born a technician, not a baker. Too late now :(
I hear you. I was encouraged when I was young to learn a trade. My dad always said if you have a trade, you will have a job for life.I repaired electronics for 20 years as a career, but the industry was changing, so I got out 13 years ago, but used my skill set to get into the work I do now, as a telecom tech. I have tried encouraging my son to learn a trade, but he has no interest in any type of work that involves using tools. He works in retail. No future in that I am afraid due to online shopping, but he hasn't figured that out yet.
My dad was aware of the progress of the electronics. He knew that the parts are getting smaller and smaller. Fixed parts and smaller pcb's were his nightmare. I understand him.
But technicians will exist forever. No matter what.
It 'll be the same aproach but with different solutions. It might even be a cleaner and healthier profession.
The only thing that bugs me is that I was forced to do something completely strange to me. Even though I was born a technician.
Sorry for my english. I did the best I could.
I hear you. I had plenty of support in my decision to go into electronics, however it threw up many roadblocksBuying my house was an absolute nightmare. Even though I had saved over 50% of the cost, and had worked for 10 years in the shop, and could show my income for the prior 10 years 3 banks in a row would not approve me for a mortgage because they were worried that I wouldn't have a job in the future. They all said that it was a job with no future. They were right 10 years later. If I had gone into broadcast engineering things would have been different, but consumer electronics has always had a target painted on it.
12voltvids
Building a house! Poeple work for a lifetime before they build their own. By the time they achieve it, they are at their 60s. Same goal for every citizen, in every country. Same thing in the 80s, 90s, 2000, 2050.
I asked my dad (a few years back), how did he manage and raised us.
He replied that wasn't sure about tomorrow. If he would keep his job. Didn't know what the future will bring.
Built his house brick by brick. Without banks. It was tough for a few years. But it was less stressful for him.
He has retired. He 's 65 years old now.
Now I must prove worthy and have a successful life.
I 'm unsure about the future too. Who knows?
I hear you. Heck I wasn't trying to build a house. I was just trying to buy an old one in 93. That was a challenge working in a TV repair shop. I tore that house apart and rebuilt it in 2003 and left the TV repair business the same year. I don't have to worry now, as my current job isn't likely to go anywhere. There is a huge demand for internet and TV, and I don't see that changing any time soon. Figure I will work another 8 years or so and then retire. As a good friend of my says, I want to have some time to enjoy the finer things in life before I cash in my chips for good.
Thank you , the video is very informative
Totally awsome repair man!!!!!!
Love your videos mate, really clear and helpful.
I'm up against a Commodore 1081 repair at present. It has no display but does have HV/scan etc.
I've traced signal through it from input to neck board, I see that the waveform maintains its shape all the way to the driver transistors on the neck board, their output looks completely different though.
The output shape also doesn't seem vary regardless of the input.
Is this normal? (Those transistors test good, at least basic diode/short testing)
CRT Tube Rejuvenators RGB Cutoffs are adjusting the G2 voltage/Screen voltage which the CRT tube Rejuvenator is measuring the current of the G2 grid? the Rejuvenators RGB cutoff displays are a measurement of the G2 grid current?
I have a 28 inch Toshiba crt TV that had a blown fuse and kept on blowing fuses instantly.
I connected it trough the dim bulb tester and it was making a popping noise like something is arcing internally.
It could not be high voltage because HOT was taken out for testing purposes.
The fuse that was blown was one for the switching power supply on the board.
So what could be arcing internally ???
I don't see any shorts with my dmm or any flashes...
Could it be arcing smps transformer ???
Great tutorial video. Thanks a ton! I can make good use of this information working on my old 1701 CRT commodore computer monitors.
I long for those old TV days and even have a room full of nice old TVS but nobody wants them. I used to fix old video games and nobody plays them. A lost skill.
Pretty much. Everything has become throw away.I still find old CRTs fascinating.
I agree, love high voltage and miss those days.
Should you set the screen as high as you can so you just about won't get the colour and retrace lines or should you turn it down a bit? I have a 14 inch CRT here for old games and the focus was awful on it until I set it but I turned the screen one thinking it would just get brighter, it doesn't though and seems to just automatically change back to the same brightness after an adjustment. Sometimes the screen will flash bright on changing refresh rates then fade dark again with it set that high but I'm not sure where to set it.
It's a Beko E1 chassis I think. It also doesn't have enough overscan horizontally and the left side has a slight bow inwards but I'm not sure whether you can adjust those and I don't want to blow myself up lol.
Probably not a good idea, since it could cause burn in.
15:52 Contrast(drive) should be set in the middle, not the max. That's what wore out so many otherwise good picture tubes. Then you use brightness(bias) to see details in dark areas of the picture.
The biggest killer of picture tubes was the dark glass which requires driving the tube hard to get the brightness desired.
@@12voltvids Which generation of CRT we talking? I could get a decently bright picture on a more recent tube, twenty years ago when a 2004 TV was new. I'd drop the contrast to the midpoint, then move brighteness up and down until I saw details in the darker parts of the image - that's what Brightness controls. The darker parts. It's like the master bias. I did calibrations back in the day.
@@Zickcermacity tubes started getting darker glass in the 90s. If you compare a TV from the 70s the glass was literally clear. The screen looked white when turned off. TV's always were cranked up at the factory because on display the brightest tv draws the eye to it. The proper way to set up a TV is with a smpte color bar generator with the 7.5ire pedistil reference in the black. You turned the color off turned the contrast and brightness (black level) to max. The. Dialed the black level down to the point that the 7.5ire bar was just visible. The 0 and 5ire were both black. Then bring the contrast back to a comfortable viewing level. Next you killed the red and green guns (or used your blue filter to view. Increase the color level to the split bars on the blue / white (end bars) was the same level and the tint so the cyan / magenta was the same on their split bar. I think I did a video on this many years ago.
@@12voltvids That alignment preocedure (correct name for it not 'calibration') sounds right.
Today of course, with modern flat screens, there's about a hundred different 'enhancers' I gotta disable in the Advance Picture menus before even beginning to do what you enumerated. None of that crap is standard broadcast or monitor material, all marketing gimmicks.
And the real shame of it is, the general public just assumes that Vivid or Dynamic mode is how "HD" is supposed to look. Then when they see it correct, they don't like it and want the torch setting back.
My biggest frustration with setup isn't the setup itself, but un-screwing up peoples' minds about what constitutes a proper standard or hi-def picture.
"If it ain't broke don't fix it" is their motto, even if the flat screen WILL be broke a lot sooner if left in Store mode or Dynamic.
@@Zickcermacity the fast majority will never like the correct calibration and you will never get 2 people that see the picture the same. My stereo system doesn't even have bass and trebble adjustments. It's flat all the way through the chain. To me it sounds fantastic but everyone that listens thinks it needs more bass or treble added. I set my plasma up with color bar generator and to me it looks fantastic but to someone else it would be too dark for their liking. That's just the way it is.
My Toshiba 1993 turn on but no picture Model AC14282 jyst snow. What do I do to fix it.
I’ve got a later model Toshiba CRT, a flat screen all in one with DVD and VHS, and those work fine but the RGB inputs give a constant scrolling distortion across the screen that makes the tv unusable for what I’m trying to do. Any ideas?
The component input is probably 480i only. If your device puts out a 480p signal it won't display properly as 480p uses a higher horizontal scan frequency.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. Have you run into the problem on a CRT TV where there in audio and a black screen?
You plugged in power using an isolation transformer, then connect a grounded scope LEAD to the CRT? Are there different ground potentials being utilized that are isolated from each other?
Scope is not grounded. It is also on isolation transformer.
Thanks, Watched another of your video's titled "Toshiba CRT TV No color video repair" where you explained into detail why your scope is grounded SHOWING your ISO Xformer. GREAT.
Ground pin on scope is cut. I can externally ground it if needed however the device under test is still isolated. The secondary on isolation transformer is floating. Therefore contact with either side to ground will do nothing. Normally the neutral is bonded to ground so a path from the hot side to ground will wither shock you or damage test equipment. By having both the hot and neutral physically isolated from earth you remove that risk.
@@12voltvids , Makes sense, I measured continuity from both AC line input pins on my scope to the GROUND pin & THEY EACH READ OPEN..
your scope is utilizing "isolated secondary neutral" as reference on its BNC connector.... .I can only assume, I must use my CraftyMech for CRT troubleshooting,.cause my game board supplies along with R.G.B. signals, A "GROUND POTENTIAL" to THE CRT,, so back to my first thought ,multiple grounds,1 floating and 1 there for signal reference's from the game board.
Are we looking at a CRT driver board with 10 transistors if so it is likely that the output stages are Class A output yes a shorted transistor could cause this condition or a burnt out 56k feedback to the bottom transistor no bias in that the bottom transistor cannot turn on to control the voltage to the plate or the diode from the base of the top transistor to the collector of the bottom transistor or the diode between the emitter of the top transistor and the collector of the bottom transistor where the two diodes come together would that cause the same fault.
What would cause a TV to show a white raster with retrace lines? This shows the solution for one color. I'm asking because I have a TV that has a wite raster with retrace lines. There is a video on my CZcams channel if you want to see it. The TV is a Zenith from the early 80's.
Loss of screen or video output b+ voltage. Check the voltage on the 3 cathode. Should be between 130 and 150v. If low there is your problem. If ok check screen voltage. Could be tube but usually that results is a single color
@@12voltvids Thanks, I'll have to look in to it.
Friend, I need your help. I been trying to make a composite video generation circuit with basic logic IC's (74HC series). I use ripple counters to count the lines and columns and then use logic gates to compare the outputs from the counters and check when to output the SYNC signals (0V). However, when I input the counters into the logic gates, most outputs become a mess! The signals are not stable. Why would this be ?
Very nice information.
i have a sony trinitron KV-AR 29M68 tv having a problem of picture shrink horizontal 4 inches from the right what could be defect in the horizontal section thank u
On a CRT neck board, how do you know which transistors are your R, G, and B output transistors? My neck board has a bunch.
The output transistors will be the larger ones.
@@12voltvids Interesting. I just checked and there are only two big transistors right next to each other, mounted on their own heat sinks. Again, only two... Could one transistor be functioning for two colors?
The transistors will be connected to the 3 kathode pins on the tube socket. kR, kG, kB.
So to set the low-light, you turn the screen down a lot and adjust from there?
To set the bias or low light as some TVs call it, you set your master screen for a faint white line, and adjust the bias controls (low light) to get the line white. this balances the 3 guns for minimum picture or sets the bias for each cathode. The drive, or highlite control adjusts the red and blue balance to produce a white picture on a bright white portion of the picture.
12voltvids Oh, OK. So you turn down the screen for low-light and turn up the screen for drive?
yes
i am about to work on an old crt TV, its problem is vertical fold over a top of the screen. Bad cap ?
I got a sharp crt tv that takes a while to power up, the screen also takes a while to come into focus. any suggestion..
Hi, I have a Toshiba XV48DT-K-TB I am hoping someone can advise me on? it's been used on a regular basis.
But I came to record on the Hard Drive the other day, pressed record, and a red record light appeared, 'blinking' on the bottom left of my screen, and it just won't record?
I tried to Dub a recording to DVD, and the same thing happened. I would be most grateful if anyone could advise a possible solution. Someone may have come across this problem.
I thought at first the hard drive was full, but no, it's not that.
Most crts I’ve worked on have never had actual pots for rgb bias, if they don’t have pots does that mean it’s in a service menu instead? My toshiba has a red tint, it was completely red with retrace lines but I touched up some dry looking joints and now it’s just a red tinge across the whole image
Yes there will be a service menu accessed with the remote.
@@12voltvids so as a rule of thumb would you say there's always an adjustment, and whether it's done via pots or a service menu is by how old the set it? or just how they chose to design it?
@@clarkjames1510
There is always an adjustment. Older sets used pots to set the screen and drive. Newer sets it was in a special service menu. The last generation of ctr sets use akb auto kine bias. They would automatically adjust and compensate for age and kept the picture perfect untill the tube was worn out.
i have a crt trinitron sony tv AR 29KV 68M model which is having problem of left side horizontal width reduced by about 5 inches,how to repair this tv.i have schematic for this tv thank u.
I got the same set namely a Toshiba Colour TV model 1400RN. I was looking for the schematics for such set online, but I was unable to find them. I know this must be a bit too much to ask but would you be so kind to share the schematics you have of this set? I would be immensely grateful to you if you could.
Schematic? I don't have a schematic. I don't have any. I have a few old Sony VCR manuals. I had boxes of Sam's and RCC mauals when i left the business in 2003 but i dumped them years ago. I regret that now but when I tossed them i wasn't doing any repair work and had no interest in doing any.
@@12voltvids I see. Thanks for the fast reply, and sorry if I bothered you, but I saw from the video that you had some sort of schematics printed on a paper sheet and I thought that you might had the schematics for it, my bad, it was worth trying. Anyhow thanks to your video I managed to fix the issue with my set, which was basically stuck with a blue screen, thank you again! : )
@@heidiichigo-san3927
I Google and see what I can find. Many schematics are available if you look. Unfortunately sometimes it takes longer to find a schematic than to fix it unit.
I have a solid white screen after 20-30 minutes the set has been on. Could it be the same problem?
Well I guess not because the tv generated menu and writings appear even when the screen turns white
hello sir good day... I have Samsung crt TV problem is there's no pictures but there is sounds and blue screen only please help me what is the possible problem this one sir... thanks a lot sir
really enjoy your vids, hope my question helps, where does the color bar come from/generated. (on set?) thanks j
They are coming from an old ENG TV camera. I was goven an old Sony DXC1800 and have it feeding into a TV modulator that puts it on channel 13 that feeds into the TV. Its an old single tube camera not much good for anything, but the bar generator makes it a keeper, and it looks cool. I have a few other cameras with bar genrerators in the too. All the pro stuff has them built in for color matching in multi camera use.
Gonna take a guess on your accent but are you from Alberta?
Halo mr
my old tv is not working it has a subwoofer circuit with ic "TA8233BH"
how i use it as a amplifier for my speakers separately
See if you can get the schematic and run the chip on a board..
I came across that problem that was a dry solder joint.
Or a shorted spark gap (RCA were bad for that.)
Hi there, I really enjoy your videos. I have an unrelated question and any input would be very appreciated. I still record programs from TV using my VCR and I have been experiencing issues with my current set-up for some time and am puzzled. I have had Dish Network with an HD receiver for a little over a year and have noticed that I am getting poor quality recordings most of the time. The contrast of the picture will change sporadically from light to dark with no affect to the audio (it doesn't always start to do it from the beginning and often times will stop for several minutes at a time or sop completely after several minutes). Sometimes I can record a show for an hour and it will play back fine and then other programming from the same channel will do this. I have tried multiple VCRs (all Sony) and they all do it so I really don't think the VCR is at fault. Commercial video tapes play fine with no affect ever. I have done some research and it sounds like Macrovision may be at fault but I contacted Dish Network and of course they were clueless. Do you think that is what is going on here, if not do you have any suggestions? I am getting thoroughly frustrated here! I suspect the cable networks are trying to kill the VCR and force people to buy their DVRs. Prior to this I had a DirecTv receiver for 6 years with non-HD and an off-air connection to the VCR and never had any issues recording.
You answered your own question. MACROVISION.All the current digital boxes have macrovision generators built in, and the option to enable or disable macrovision is totally dependent on the video content. Buried in the digital video signal is a flag to enable or disable macrovision. Dish, Direct, Comcast, Shaw, Bell, Telus ect have no way to control this signal. They simply pass the program on to the subscriber. The content owner is in total control. I have the same problem if I try to record from channels like HBO, or the VOD programs. A macrovision scrubber or looking the video through a time base corrector will strip the signal and allow recording.I have my macrovision scrubber permanently attached to the analog output on my cable box so I can make recordings on DVD of stuff I want to keep a copy of. On a DVD recorder it won't even allow you to record, just a message comes up and says protected content cannot record.I did a video on my macrovision scrubber if you search for it.
Thanks, I'll look that up. It is very aggravating that we pay to subscribe to the channels and then they don't let us record the programming unless you pay to rent a DVR which I refuse to do. The majority of what I tape I don't even keep, I just want to watch it at a different time than the broadcast if I am not home or don't want to watch it at the time. Who in their right mind these days would even buy a program that was home recorded on a VHS tape??? I wish I had stayed with DirecTV. I have always hated Dish and now I have one more reason. My old receiver never caused this problem but I am sure that receiver is no longer available. I had a hunch to keep it in case I ever went back to DirecTv but unfortunately didn't. I will probably just eventually go to free TV as I don't watch much on TV anymore anyways. BTW, does it cause any harm to the VCR to record something being scrambled by the voltages sent by Macrovision?
Will this fix the problem www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Video-Stabilizer-w-Copyguard-New-/261993507293?hash=item3d0007a9dd:g:3TwAAOSwMmBVwg3v
No it doesn't hurt it. Macrovision just messes with the sync and video levels. Right now I am recording the movie "Sully" off the on demand service, and yes it is protected up the ying yang, however I am using my Hauppague HDPVR to record the component HD outputs onto my PC. Will put it on a USB stick to watch later on the big TV.
Yes that looks like the right one
thank you
I m from indonesia
I've got a Sony 21" trinitron tv that I use for retro gaming, nearly 30 years old but when I turned it on the other day the is picture green, what would cause that?
Check the voltages at the collector of the video out and see if they are in the same range. If so, disconnect the green transistor. If the green goes away then you know it is something in the green drive circuit. If it remains green then either the spark gap in the tube socket has shorted, or the picture tube has shorted on the green gun.
Nice!