Sump Pump Check Valve Basics
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- What's the Best Check Valve to Use? Our pump expert explains what check valves are, which ones are the best, and why you should use them when installing a new sump pump.
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#PowerEquipmentDirect #sumppump #checkvalve - Jak na to + styl
You're awesome. I was looking for an answer for this when I first bought my house almost 2 years ago. I've got the check valve on the top right of the list and I bought (yet haven't installed yet) the bottom right check valve. I bought it just in case when I fixed everything on the house.
The reason I bought it was the check valve makes a loud bang you can great through the house after the pump pushes the water out. Then you can hear water drain back for about 10 seconds after.
So I'll finally replace mine.
Thank you for the great video and explanation!
very informative. i couldn't find my valve because i was unaware of the base type of valve: it's under nasty water in my sump. excellent video. thank you!
Great tip for the horizontal installation of the quiet valve. Gracias!
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
This is an awesome video explaining the basics. I am so glad I found this channel. This helped me quite a bit! Thank you!
Thank you for the great video. I learned a lot here on this one! Kudos!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you. After replacing a few pumps at my same residence for 35 years, a new pump I purchased today suggested to install a check valve. I never heard of it so a Google brought me here. For those 35 years, I have been listening to the back flow of the water back into the pit. Your explanation was thorough and enlightening. Back to the hardware store in search for a valve.
We're glad this video helped. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe if you haven't already, for more videos like these!
Very helpful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jim
Good stuff👍
I installed a PumpSpy quiet check value 2 years ago. Recently I noticed an air bubble in the window of the check value after the pump was turning on without anyone flushing, etc. (it is in the basement). Do these need to be cleaned and/or maintained or do I just purchase a new one for a few dollars? My old loud one was in there for 10+ years before I changed it out for the quiet. Thanks!
excellent
If i have about an 11' total vertical rise, do i need a check valve at the pump outlet and also an in-line valve 3ft up on the vertical outlet pipe?
Thanks for the video. So, question for you - I know that the check valve keeps water in the VERTICAL portion of the pipe from draining back down into the sump pit, but won't it also hold the water from draining in the horizontal drain pipe outside of the home, much like drinking from a straw and then pinching the vertical portion of the straw? I would think that once the valve closes when the pump shuts off, it creates a closed system to everything above it. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Are there any check valves that have a replaceable diaphram in them for rebuild rather than replace?
So, for location, as to check valve attached to pump or higher up... I am thinking, like you said, that to much water weight when pumping higher up with check valve attached to pump; when one installs higher up and drills their weep hole beneath, the pump can get up to speed and slam that check valve open with more of an explosive force, eh?
Never had a problem with my sump pump freezing in the winter until I installed one of these.
It all depends on how much water and where that water is left sitting above the installed check valve that matters. And if that sitting water extends through a wall that is liable to freeze, you can have problems. If on the other hand, you have the check valve installed in a spot that has minimal chance of holding water, you reduce the chance of a freezing issue. In your case, installation location and the surrounding pipe location is key.
Thx for your enlightening series on sump pups. Is there any real need for a check valve if there is natural gravity drainage after only a 2-2.5 ft vertical lift?
Check valves are always recommended to prevent excess drainage and backflow to keep your system running as smoothly as possible, and we understand your point of only having a few feet of potential backflow. In that case, it's more of a "nice to have" rather than a need.
I Appreciate your informative video.. What brand is the check valve that has the side port, preventing lass hammer. I currently am pushing about 4' vertically when pump quits huge sound, and all the pipes rattle. Im looking for a quieter one and will also install half way up the pipe. Currently the discharge is 2" ABS pipe.
If you are referring to the Basement Watchdog 'Klunkless' check valve model KCV (www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Basement-Watchdog-KCV/p2492.html), this valve is designed for 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" diameter PVC so we wouldn't recommend it for 2" pipe. For 2" I would recommend this: (www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-30-0043/p14773.html). You might also check your discharge piping and ensure that it's separated from any walls or floor joists.
just installed one of the clear quiet check valves, the water hammer noise was reduced to 0 as it was bothersome for the family. A+ in that regard. I kept doing research on them and it seems there is a number of cases where they fail, partial fail where the spring no longer closes the valve and it becomes a regular nonquiet valve, and complete failure where the spring shuts the valve closed and the pump end's up running endlessly. What's your experience? how frequently do I need to replace and valve? any additional maintenance?
Check valves are typically built to last the life of the pump. However, they aren't guaranteed to last that long in every application, and we always recommend changing the check valve any time a pump is replaced. Check valves have a relatively low fail-rate when installed correctly and the whole system's piping is properly sized, meaning the pressure of the water during operation isn't too high or too low when passing through the check valve. With all of those things working together, check valves should work without mechanical failures for years.
Do I need to remove the black check value currently at the bottom of the pipe before placing the new silent one? Or I can leave both in. I'm trying to eliminate the sound. We have two sump pumps in the pit, one is higher I believe it's a back up one. Where should the new silent valve be placed at? The pit is about 3-4 ft deep, and the pipe goes up to about 8-9 ft high.
Hello, you should never have more than one check valve installed per pump. We normally suggest installing them about 2-3 feet above the basin cover.
I can hear water gurgling and trickling after the pump shuts off. Does that mean I need a new check valve? I had the sump pump replaced three years ago but don't know if the valve was replaced as well. Thank you.
That depends on where on the discharge pipe your check valve is installed. If it is higher up (like a few feet high) it's normal to hear all the water below the check valve drain back into the pit after the pump turns off, because none of that water actually passed the check valve.
If your check valve is just a few inches above the pump/pit but you're hearing a constant dripping/trickling for more than a few seconds, then yes it's possible you may need to replace your check valve. We do recommend replacing check valves every time the pump is replaced, but it's an easy thing to swap out yourself with just a few tools. You can check out our installation video on how to install a new check valve yourself: czcams.com/video/b7LJKqASe8s/video.html
As always we hope this helps but if you still have questions please give us a call.
Here's a basic question: i ordered a 2 inch quiet check valve (campbell) to install on 2 inch pvc discharge pipe from my sump pump. Got the unit and the rough opening measures closer to 2 1/2 inches so maybe either ordered the wrong one or got sent wrong unit, either way it's too large for the pvc pipe. any tips on measuring? thanks, nice video
Pipe measurements are based on the ID, or inside diameter for fittings. That said, the OD or outside diameter of those fittings and piping are going to be larger. As long as you're installing a 2" check valve for sump/sewage pumps on 2" PVC Pipe, everything should fit.
I'm replacing my primary sump pump. I want to attempt to improve the configuration of my sump/battery back-up pumps and piping. My sump pit is in a crawl space. So my vertical lift is maybe 6 feet, tops.
I've read a few articles stating that a spring assist in-line/axial check valve is desired in a vertical application, instead of a "swing"/flapper style.
1) What is your opinion on this?
2) Should the check valve be above the "Y"? Or, should each pump have a dedicated check valve?
3) Should I add a 1/8" weep hole near the pump outlet? If so, should this be done on BOTH pump outlet pipes?
Hey, my question is directly below, so it sounds like you have a similar setup and in a crawlspace location, albeit a different question. So, from my research and contact with the company that makes these primary and battery backup pump systems, here is what they've told me:
1) The smaller battery backup pump may not be able to overcome the spring constant in those "quiet" valves. I thought that might solve my problem, but decided against installing one based on the company's advice not to.
2) Each pump needs it's own check valve, otherwise the activated pump simply starts emptying the pit but when the water gets to the Y BEFORE the check valve, is simply runs down the other leg of the Y into the other pump and therefore back into the pit.
3) I have the pre-assembled system and they put check valves in each pump; the primary pump has a vent hole within the pump itself, and the battery backup is equipped with a check valve that has the pre-drilled hole it in just below the flapper. The vent holes are needed for each check valve, and are need to be BELOW the check valve flapper and ABOVE the pump. They are there to avoid having a situation where you have air trapped between two sections of water - water in the pit and water above the check valve. Those weep holes let air escape, otherwise the pump starts to pump water out of the pit, encounters an air pocket and becomes "air locked", just spinning and not able to pump the water any further.
Compression check valve okay for semi solid vertical application?
We would need a bit more information on the pump used and the application. Please send us the details using our contact us form: www.sumppumpsdirect.com/contact_us.php
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need a reliable one-way air admittance valve above the check valve so the sloped horizontal pipe will drain out when the pump shuts off... will a regular "cheater vent" work? i need something that will absolutely not let water flow out!
thanks
using about a 7 foot vertical discharge pipe to the basement ceiling then elbow out a wall... could i maybe instead put a tee at that point and install another check valve backwards to close tight when the pump is running then open via suction as the water flows out?
Please see the next reply.
That's a very specific use/application. We suggest you call Liberty and or Zoeller tech support and ask them. Liberty 800-543-2550 | Zoeller 800-928-7867.
Where is the best location for a check valve? I heard putting low on the line reduces amount of water draining back or even in sump pit where the noise may be muffled. I also heard putting it higher on the line reduces wear on the pump by not lifting as much standing water in the pipe on startup
That’s a hard one to answer, Jeff! It depends on the total vertical discharge head lift in your application. Typically, you want it at least at the half-way point. The more vertical lift you have above the check valve, the more energy it takes that pump to start pumping that water.
How long does a check valve last. Seems like my pump won’t pump for than 10 to 15 seconds.
A check valve typically should be replaced each time you replace a sump pump as a rule of thumb. They can last years, however sometimes normal wear and tear could run your check valve out sooner than expected. The good news is that they can usually be replaced for under $20 if you notice it no longer working properly. If you hear consistent dripping or a small stream for more than 10 seconds after the sump pump cycle completes, there may be a problem with your valve not sealing properly. We have premium check valves available as well, which are designed to last and are more quiet than cheaper valves: www.sumppumpsdirect.com/pumps/check-valves.html
Can you put 2 check valves on the pipe??
Well, technically you could, but it would be redundant in most applications that only require one. Depending on your application, you might end up having water get trapped between the check valves, which wouldn't be ideal. You could experience constant drainage, or potentially increase your chances of part of the system failing, since there would now be more parts involved.
@@PowerEquipmentDirect thank you👍
I've been plumbing for 20 years. Clogged weep holes or no weep holes at all!!! Still kills me. AIR LOCK is REAL!! AIR LOCK IS REAL!!!! :&
Thanks for sharing your insight. Weep holes are the first step and most direct defense against air lock, though it still isn't full-proof.