A focus on MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- Bob Paulinski, Master of Wine discusses his visit to Abruzzo. For me, Abruzzo is Italy's most undervalued wine region. It's a place primed to garner a lot more attention. Specifically the focus in this video will focus on Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. One of the best wine bargains in the world. While I’ve been to Italy many times, this video details my first trip to this specific region.
I was with a group of journalists from the US and Canada. The trip itinerary was set by the organizing group with the regional Consorzio, so I had to go with the flow. There was no rest for the wary, after 15 hours plus of air travel, the group gathered at the airport in Rome and the new day started full speed ahead.
During the trip I tasted a few hundred wines, while I have a better appreciation Trebbiano, Pecorino, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo but for me, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo draws the most interest. If there was ever a grape variety that deserved more recognition, this is it.
The labelling is rather straightforward, Montepulciano refers to the grape variety and Abruzzo being the place of origin. The wines must be at least 85% Montepulciano, but the reality is many are 100% The wine also conform to grape yield guidelines and minimum % content. Some of the subzones have more restrictive rules. And there are reserva wines which have their separate guidelines. The region produces more than 22M cases of wine per year, that ranks 7th in Italy. The wines will range start at under $10 US to $200+ per bottle, with the majority being in the $15 to $30 range in the US.
Why is Abruzzo not better known?
1) A long history of making cheap entry level wines has weighed on the region’s reputation, driven largely by co-ops
2) It doesn’t have the tourist draw of places like Tuscany, Veneto or even Campania with Rome
3) The primary grape variety, Montepulciano is often confused with the place of Montepulciano in Tuscany Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or Rosso di Montepulciano.
4) It’s difficult to know what you’re getting in terms of style
What’s changing in Abruzzo
1) Increased focus on quality is apparent, ticking all of the right boxes, low yields, attention to detail attempt to bring attention to better sites, plenty of clonal diversity
2) More focus on eco-friendly, vineyard health embrace as a way of life, its not a marketing thing
3) There’s plenty of news stories about the aging population within Italy, we encountered a good of young people in key roles within the wineries. This bodes well for the future.
MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO TO SEARCH OUT BY STYLES (CA PRICING USD$)
Lightweight/Entry Level
2021 Galasso Filari (tasted in the video) $5!
2021 Nicodemi Le Murate (Colline Teramane DOCG) $18
2020 Cataldi Madonna “Girovago” $21
Mid-range
2019 Masciarelli (tasted in the video), $9 at Costco, $14 is typical
2022 Zaccagnini (dal tralcetto', vine clip bottle) DOC $16
2021 Cataldi Madonna Malandrino $24
Full/more concentrated
2021 Miglianco Montupoli (tasted in the video, the style is between the mid and full) $24
2018 Illuminati Riserva Zanna $25
2018 Zaccagnini St Clemente Reserva $37
Edimio Pepe, any bottling will be outstanding, tiny production, expensive, the style will vary from mid to full
This was the single largest tasting of Abruzzo wines that I had ever attended. It was walk around event that provided a chance to taste extensively from throughout the region. Along the way I spent time with fellow wine CZcamsr, Matthew Horkey. At the trade event, I tasted over 100 wines from over 35 different producers. Then, I attended a MasterClass, I had hoped to get clarity on the wine styles as there is a high degree of variability. In general terms, there are wines sourced from flatter sites near the sea and then others from hilly inland sites. There are lighter versions that bring primary fruit, mid weight that have greater concentration and finally weightier, fuller styles. In terms of winemaking, some are out concrete vats, an old technique that’s back in fashion, but also stainless steel, amphoras, as is old large neutral oak barrels and increasingly smaller French oak for the most tricked out versions.
Broadly speaking, the wines can be split into one of three categories.
Entry level, some are built to a price point, others actually have a good bit of character. The poorer versions come from the warmer sites are harvested quite early for a late ripening variety. In this case, the fruit has good sugar levels to be converted to alcohol, but there’s a greenness to the wines due to the lack of phenolic ripeness. Lighter versions, fruity, red fruit, lighter bodied 12.0% to 12.5%. Mid-level, more weight and concentration, some with a degree of oak influence, med scrub aroma. High-level, best sites, low yields, often older vines, with a varying degree of oak from little to pronounced.
#italy #abruzzo #montepulciano #wset #winetasting #winelife #masterofwine #bobpaulinski
It is awesome when your favorite wine expert/youtuber mentions the very wine you are enjoying in the moment.
The Masciarelli is indeed quite nice.
C’mon now! Kind words, but what’s the chance of that happening? I think we both need to buy lottery tix asap! 😂 I appreciate your comment! Cheers!🍷
Great video. I regularly drink montepulciano, sangiovese, tempranillo, malbec and syrah. Great wines for less than $10 when on sale. I find that they offer great value. Thanks for sharing your knowledge .
I’m glad you enjoyed the video. And yes, there are plenty of great values if you know where to look. 🍷
It was great to meet you in person too! I love that Gattavecchi Rosso di Montepulciano that you showed- yes yes I know it’s Sangiovese tho ahhaha
Thanks Matthew. I know you’re a big Sangiovese fan! 🍷
Informative video. I’ve had the Le Murate at a restaurant in Philly. I just checked my wine store and I can get quite a few things. Nicodemi Le Murate and Notari; Illuminati Ilico, Riparosso, and Zanna Reserva; C. Madonna Maladrino; Idi di Marzo-Amarne; and a handful of others. I’ll pick through them. Thanks.
I’m glad you liked the video. It sounds like you have a good wine store nearby. If you have questions on any of the options, let me know. 🍷
This was a helpful provocation. I’ve had enough “meh” experiences with montepulciano, and don’t hear much about from the experts I follow, so rarely try it. Your endorsement as a top value grape will find me exploring the region and grape more. Thanks!
Thank you Andrew. There’s plenty to explore with a little due diligence. Let me know if you have questions about specific wines. Cheers. 🍷
Great video as always, very informative. Finally had a chance to try some montepulciano d’abruzzo the other day, 2020 Frattaroli. Definitely at the entry level, but thoroughly enjoyable and simple. Will look for a next-rung version soon.
A step up version will be an eye opener. MdA is a go to wine for me. Excellent value.
Very interesting again. It would be great to see you with Matthew Horkey, I really like his enthusiasm for wine. Seems like a great guy. Thanks again!
Thanks for the comment. With a bit of planning and some luck, hopefully we can collaborate on a video. Cheers. 🍷
Great video! Could be personal preference but I still think the best value in Italy is in Etna.
Thanks. That’s part of what makes wine so interesting and fun, personal preference can’t be wrong. Cheers. 🍷
Another quality wine video Professor Bob! This content is very educational, so happy I subscribed to your channel. Montepulciano D'Abruzzo wasn't on my radar, but it is now. I'm going to buy one from each level: Entry, Mid-Range and Full-Body and blind them to see if I can tell the difference...a fun exercise for a wine hobbyist. Also enjoy the scenery on your travels. Thank you for sharing your vast wine knowledge with us!
Thank you for the very kind words. I’m glad you’re going to try the wines. There’s a lot to explore with Montepulciano. This was an intense five days, covered a lot of ground in Abruzzo, then went south to Puglia. Cheers. 🍷
Thanks for this advice, Bob. It triggered my memory that I had recently seen one at Costco for under $15. I went back and bought the 2020 Cantina Zaccagnini Red Wine for $12.69. My wife and I both LOVED it. Delicious and drinkable right away with a depth I didn't expect in a young red. So far it's my best budget pick for 2023. I ran back and bought four more. Thanks for steering me to this region. Top value indeed!
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. That’s long been a favorite of mine. It’s on my short list of the best bargain of 2023 as well. Cheers. 🍷
To add more anecdotes to the 😕 you mentioned, I was told by a wine maker in Montepulciano, Tuscany, 10 years ago, that there was a court case between Tuscany and Abruzzo because of the name Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Tuscany couldn't digest they were calling a wine with that name as there is only one Montepulciano for them and that is in Tuscany. They told me that Abruzzo had lost the battle and they were going to have to change the name to their wine. Now, or that wine maker was drunk and he told me a fantasy story or the battle continued and in the end it was Tuscany which lost the battle 🤷♀️
Good story. I’m always amazed how a neighboring region can seemingly be clueless of another nearby region. Bottom line, there’s a lot to like with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. 🍷
Thanks for the deep dive into the many facets of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. As a wine geek the nomenclature with the appellation in Tuscany isn't an issue for me, but the somewhat confusing and competing styles of it has made me shy away from it. It does sound like a great QPR wine without high levels of tannins and with a medium aging capacity.
I also really enjoy Pecorino, as it is so crisp and food friendly. Unfortunately both of these wines are not so common here in Taiwan/Asia where Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto, Puglia, and now Sicily are the go to regions.
But there are a few importers bringing them in, just not mainstream just yet. Man, buying a wine like that at Costco for 9 bucks sounds totally awesome. Cheers & great video!
It’s good to start the day reading a very kind message. Thank you. The styles of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be difficult to discern, but it’s well worth exploring. As for Pecorino, it’s outstanding, the way it maintains acidity is a huge plus. I’ve not been to Taiwan, but I’ve been to some other countries in Asia. It appears the available wine range keeps improving, but with a much heavier focus on red. Thank you again, your support of my channel is appreciated. 🍷
Found a few of these at my local TW. Guess I know where I'm going tomorrow:)
You’ll be able to find some different versions at TW. Share you thoughts after you try them. 🍷
Another great video! definitely going to search these out and try them. I enjoy these videos of your travels, very informative. Keep the videos coming - Salute!
Glad to read you enjoyed it. Abruzzo, great place, sensational wines. Thanks again. 🍷
Some of the wine's from there, can be amazing..
Been trying to get a Emidio Pepe. for the last 2 yers. but im too far back in the line. and too frew bottles, are getting to Denmark.
But one day.... :)
Walking the cellar there was a fantastic experience. The production is very small and a good part of it goes to high restaurants. Good luck on your search! 🍷
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 Well. i called my local wine dealer, and he will sell me a 2018, from he's celler. 80 bugs, seems fair.
Looking forward to drink it with a Buddy, this weekend 😁
Great insights on the region and the wine. Thank you for sharing your experience, Bob. Cheers!
Thank you Dmitri. If you’ve not tried the wines, I hope you do! Cheers. 🍷
I have, Bob. But more I think more on an entry level but still liked them Now I will dive deeper.
@@dmitrivassiliev15 Cool, there's a lot to discover there.
It is almost a duty to us wine geeks to promote the massive diversity of grape varieties in Italy. It's like a colossal playground-museum for aromas and styles. You wanna see what a red feels like with almost no tannin yet decent acidity? Here you are, a good handful of them. High tannin, high acidity? Sure! Whites with notes you'd never imagine? What flavour do you like?
I’m trying to do my part to promote the wines that require extra effort to search out. So many worthwhile gems. It’s encouraging to see places in Italy (and Portugal) go to great lengths to keep their indigenous grape varieties part of the wine culture. As always, thanks for posting your thoughts. 🍷
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 it's a super important effort in my view, and the wine community's much better off with experts covering the gems. Not sure if I've said it before on this channel, but you might wanna look out for Pedral grape, from Rías Baixas. The Attis winery I mentioned some time ago makes a great example. It could very well pass as Burgundy Villages at a reasonable price, adding some salinity and tannin to an otherwise very Pinot-ish character.
@@juanmanuelmunozhernandez7032 I agree. I'll sprinkle in more videos on little known grapes. Pedral is one that I'll research. One of the most intriguing aspects of wine, there's always more to learn.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 As a reference if it helps, the most important red grapes that are on the edge of extinction in Galicia are Pedral, Sousón, Brancellao and Espadeiro. Caíño Tinto is in a better shape, and Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera are not endangered as far as I know.
@@juanmanuelmunozhernandez7032 I’ll research it when I get the chance. Thanks!
My favorite from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo in the last time was Barba, „i Vasari“ DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, rosso 2019 an exceptional unique wine for just 10 € in Germany. I can fully agree with your oppinon that quality is and status is going to improve further in the future.
The range on the trip was generally very high. The styles were all over the place, this is one aspect that poses a challenge for wine shoppers. I’m terms of finding good examples for low price, it’s one of the best places in the world. I’ll look for your suggestion, even if it’s another vintage. 🍷
Great video…..several of the labels I’ve had. I do like them. If I need a more old world, value based red, big bold red it’s a go to. But I do love different styles, I just picked up some 05 occhio di pernice from Avignonesi….. like Marche needs more press! Thank you!
Your good word is always appreciated. Can’t go wrong with Avignonesi. I’m also a fan of the white wines from Marche as well. Cheers!
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 cool…any other up and coming regions I should look for? Old or new world.
@@carlcadregari7768 So many, some will be part of future videos. Some are up and coming, others just sorely undervalued or have experienced a recent transformation. Puglia, Marche, Sicily, Northern Greece, Minervois, Corbieres, Leyda, San Antonio (Chile)...
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 nice! I’ll look forward to them!
Indeed those Italian names are confusing. Montepulciano is a grape variety and a place. And somehow I always mix it up with Montalcino, from Brunello de Montalcino, which is close to Montepulciano and it starts with a B, just like Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera... Aargh, I think they're just trying to confuse us!
I agree 100%, it’s easy to mix it up. Same happens with Spain, Portugal and France. Hopefully my video helped to clarify Montepulciano. Cheers. 🍷
sure, Moltepuchiano is interesting in Abruzzo but boy oh boy I want to try Trebbiano d'Abruzzo…
Tasted many on this trip. My appreciation for Trebbiano has bumped up. Yields are a huge factor, when kept in check, the wines have a good range of character. When the yields are high, the wines showed a lack of depth.
@@bobpaulinskimasterofwine7234 from my understanding there are many Trebbiano’s (Trebbiano Toscana as an example) and only few are truly Trebbiano dabruzzo which is the special one out of all those trebbianos out there.
@@Ruirspirul You're right, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo isn't the easiest to find. Had many good examples while there.