1ZZ injectors on my Track Yaris
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- So i bought some 1ZZ injectors for my 1nz-fe powered Yaris off of eBay for $50 total. they were supposedly brand new injectors, but they sure didn't work like new. watch me turn a 30min install in to a 2 day ordeal.
00:00 INTRO
01:56 Starting the Install
03:11 1NZ & 1ZZ Injector comparison
04:15 First fire up Attempt
04:54 What Codes did I Get?
05:38 Second fire up Attempt
06:05 Unburnt fuel makes for an Accidental Crackle Tune
06:50 Third fire up Attempt
07:26 Recap
09:11 Final Update
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Great info! Good to know that Oem isn’t always oem. Excited to see how these change the driving and hopefully add power! Keep up the great work!
I have a 1984 VW GTI. The car is in storage for years I went to start it a few years ago and I had a bad miss fire. I did a lot checking come to find out the car had bad O-Rings on the stock injectors. Runs great now. I'm looking now for a Toyota Yaris to do track days with at Gingerman Race way in the state of Michigan. Thanks Joey for your great Yaris videos!
Yaaaassss....dubgang. Glad the golf/rabbit is running right now.
Looks like you did everything right, my only suggestion for the install is replacing the orings on the injectors themselves. They might be causing a vacuum leak. The vehicle may need to be tuned for the mods you've done, but I'm a Toyota newbie. I'm typing as I watch the video and it looks like the injectors from LKQ are working? Good to know this is a feasible upgrade then lol
Next time, try MONKEY WRENCH RACING
I paid $28 from Amazon. Working fine.
Injector cleaner?
Have them flow tested?
🤔
A good technique I use is to pull the fuel pump fuse/relay and let the engine die, it'll create minimal spillage of fuel when you pull the fuel rail off.
I have a decapped stock injector spray test on my channel I think
Have you also change te intake manifold; I also done this swap to my corolla and after the swap I have arithmias only on cold start..
No, currently on the stock intake manifold
I've only heard that the 1NZ ecu is hard to crack and or tune, because of its stock settings it will almost do everything it can to keep it running close to OEM even with upgraded TB, Injectors. Then again idk, I see a few of the Thailand, Malaysia, HK 1NZ gang tuning, and getting all kinds of crazy with forced induction or forged internals.
Looking forward to seeing you shoot for 1st reppin the 1NZ's 💪💀🔥🏁🔰🐼🇯🇵
the b-spec tune i got seems to be doing its job, but its hard to tell honestly
After watching Mighty Car Mods for so long, I'm sure Haltech is the solution for all the world's problems. lol
@@RassoolRacing as long as the butt dyno can feel it ;)
I've never heard of anyone being able to crack 1NZ ECUs, going piggyback or full standalone seems to be the only way. Which sucks.
Pretty sure you have to buy a piggy back tuner or stand alone ecu and go to a tuner or unless you are yourself hook it up and tune your car
Just clean the filters of the injectors if they are not white inside .only if you see black then fuel injector clean em.
I just clean the up again
Did you have any issues when swapping to the 1zz throttle body I consistently get the p0171 lean fuel code car is running great but I'm sure I need to fix that I was considering getting the 1zz injectors hopefully that would resolve the issue but thought I would ask since you have been through this already
I got a similar code for a while but my tune from Chris Taylor racing solved the issue
How’s the 1zz throttle body working with the injectors?
Bigger air coming need more fuel flowing TB plus injectors is a must
Change the rubber seals to black oem and boom they work bro they will not leak .😊
Alway toyota logo for the ingen parts for sure
I've been searching for a gauge pod mount, and I was wondering if you know of any vent mounts? I have the AEM OBD2 gauge. 52mm
hmm, i dont. but it's circular so maybe something like this? not sure what size you'd need though. www.ebay.com/itm/144162456412?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=144162456412&targetid=1262749490782&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031183&poi=&campaignid=15428034462&mkgroupid=133947154481&rlsatarget=pla-1262749490782&abcId=9300763&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuvOPBhDXARIsAKzLQ8F_TFgKWEBfy7PIW590evWhjCnSeCyphjj8gRQhwqPbb55-28PV_LMaAm83EALw_wcB
@@RassoolRacing thank you for the Help. One last thing. Where did you get your axle back exhaust?
@@nicholasday3545 I got it from vivid racing but it doesn't look like they stock it anymore. Frsport.com might have one, and there's a discount code for them in the description
You should check out parts from Thai sellers specially for 1NZ engine.
what websites?
@@safety_dirt I don't have them websites but you can check out DB ENgine Shop, TG Shop, WBB3, and PB Tuner Shop Facebook pages.
Set eBay region to Thailand 🇹🇭
Hey so just to let you know these aren’t as hard as it seems I have a 2014 Prius c with a 1nz fxe I’ve decapped my stock injectors for more fuel worked for a while but then it started to misfire I pulled some junkyard injectors and flow tested them grabbed them from basically whatever Lexus or Toyota with a bigger engine since all the fittings are about the same and they flowed good and there cheap I like junkyard stuff because wrecked cars still ran when they got there so the parts are usually good I usually slide them in my pocket from a u pull you pay 🤫
I use to slide some bolts in my pocket also. I had to realize it’s wrong and can’t do it again. I also go to junkyards and find things. Looking forward to finding sum injectors now. God bless.
@@zachshaw9759 until they charge you 6-8$ an injector and for the bolts I pay for my big items 100-500$ and all the little extras I can fit are free they pay about 450$ for an suv and 350$ for a car unless it’s newer so me buying an engine and trans for 550$ is more than the cars value itself the rest is just trying to overcharge
any one know 5:52 what this noise is when I turn on my yaris it ALWAYS MAKES THAT LOUD AS NOISE AND ITS NOT THE SERPENTINE BELT
from what i understand its an issue in communication between the ECU and Alternator. i've had it much worse in the past, and chancing the alternator, tightening the belt, and turning the car on slowly (acc, 2sec, on, 2sec, start) has gotten it to the point where mine only does it now if the engine is warm.
@@RassoolRacing so the noise you think it come from the alternator because mine is bad but then again it happens when I start the car up quick . but sometimes it get really loud and honestly embarrassing lol I need to getbit fixed I thought It was the ac bearing so i swap it 😅 because it sometimes made noise when I had the ac on and would accelerate
@@TheANDRES1513 as you can hear, I've never 100% gotten it fixed myself, but a new alternator helped a lot
@@RassoolRacing I appreciate the advice bro thank you very much
Mine did the same sound after replacing the alternator and belt. I tightened it as much as I could and apparently it wasn’t tight enough. My mechanic used something with more leverage and got the belt tighter than I could. Sound went completely away.
Just started following, so I don't know if it's been discussed. I was wondering if you're interested in doing an engine swap, or are you allowed for your race bracket? The 2ZR-FE out of a Scion xD bolts right in, ECU, harness, mounts, etc. Only need to run one extra wire I believe, either for the MAF or speed sensor. And I believe the tranny out of the xD would be better, it has the same gear ratio for 1st to 5th and reverse, but it has a higher final drive ratio, which would put more torque to the ground, but would suffer top end speed, but not by much I think 10MPH. Some might say the one out of the xA would be even better, because it has an even higher FD, but I don't think the whole tranny bolts on, you'd have to pull out the shafts out of the tranny and swap them in. My reply wasn't posting in your other video where I said the 2013 RAV4 fuel pump would work, it's actually out of the 06-12 RAV4. There was a discussion in YW dot com: www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63181&highlight=engine+swap
thanks dude! i've been looking at the 2ZR swap for a while, but it definitely bumps me up a class, so im trying to finish at least 1 year in 1st place in enthusiast class before doing it.
@@RassoolRacing if you want to stay in your current class for a bit, then the 13:1 pistons from the Prius-C might be your ticket, and I think the rods are forged. Also maybe tranny internals swap like I mentioned? I haven’t done much to my DeeDee performance wise, yeah that’s what I named my Yaris! 😅 Other than the 1ZZ TB and Tanabe Medalion axle back. Oh actually first thing I did was install the Tein’s lowering springs and Am using the upper mounting holes for the rear axle frame. I’ve mostly done some cosmetics. I’m still settling with the new job and all. And I’m currently engaged in my other “cheaper” hobbies. I’ll probably get into this again in the summer. Good luck and have fun! Will be closely watching this channel.
Rule of thumb always buy three pairs
hi do you have stock ecu
reflashed ECU, but this also works with the stock ECU
OK I track a yaris and I have to be a master mechanic as my job a lean condition check engine light usually means u have a vacuum leak these injector will not increase power at all it will just mess up your tune run super rich and probably destroy your plugs and cats ... get your OEM ones cleaned and or replaced with OEM ones
A common vacuum leak is the intake manifold gasket u can check it by idling the car and spraying it with carb cleaner... or just find a loose or broke vacuum hose
Oh your running a 1zz throttle body it's probably letting in more air then it should and confusing the tune for lean ... it's running way to rich that's why it's miss firing sir
You will never run correctly on bigger injectors without a dyno tune it will always miss fire and make less power ur lean condition has nothing to do with your oem injectors I promise!
as i mentioned in the video, the car does have a tune. the lean conditions have only started popping up since the 1zz TB went on and not at all often. its seems to be connected to a rev hang at idle after driving for a long time. once i got the LKQ 1zz injectors in, as i mentioned at the end, the car started running normally. I'm going to keep an eye on it and hopefully i can take it to the dyno again next weekend, but for now everything seems to be working (famous last words).
I have the same tune and have cams, I think what's happening is you have a vacuum leak from the 1zz tb. It doesn't seal on the intake all that well since the intake port diameter is way smaller. On my car I only ever had the injectors max out when I was hitting 8500 RPM making over 150 hp.
Engine name?
1NZ-FE