Studio Macro - tips, tricks, and collapsed eyeballs
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
- A bunch of technical macro photography information discussed in the context of my typical studio workflow. I also address a number of really excellent questions from earlier in the week.
Sorry for the delayed release of this video - I have found the problem and come up with a suitable workaround, at least until a a permanent fix can be arranged.
What a pleasant and excellent style of presentation you have. Unhurried and comprehensive. I adore macro photography and in recent months have committed and bought a good tripod a shutter release a sliding focus rail and a dedicated 100m macro lens plus extension tubes too.
Another great Tutorial. Thanks, Allan!
Great videos Allan! Thanks a lot for doing them!
That's a good bit of kit, truly made for the job.
I watch all your videos ... it's a great pleasure.
Another top video. Thx Allan!!!
Thanks for the shout-out Allan. I also mount the Xacto on my Benro gear head and/or a ball head. A pin vise works great as well.
Great Video Allan. Glad you finally got it uploaded.
Thanks Carl - it turned out to be my cable modem. My ISP has offered me a service call sometime in August. I'll try battering the modem with a hammer in the meantime.
Hi Allan,
Thanks for your offer for teaching free to those who can't pay,very kind of you. I wish that I live near to you so I can be near you to help you watch you working with such dedication.I admit when you start explaining formulas I get scared because I'm bit slow learner.
Thanks for sharing you knowledge to those who wish to learn in all ages. 65 years 28th April.
Mario Mifsud
Another Great Video I am learning a lot Thanks again !!
Thanks William! Glad they are helpful to you.
Great video, thanks Allan.
Thanks Tony!
Well done Allan....
Excellent!
thank you fpr sharing your knowledge with us and dont hide it behind a paywall :)
This are 250 shot's for 1 cm. Interesting, because with my DIY rail I punsch how many shot's per cm I won't and normally I was using 220.
Nice video and very informative. thanks a lot.
A very informative video with tons of great tips and tricks. Thank you. :) Btw, the 160 mm distance from sensor to shoulder(?), that's with a finite objective, right?
Hey Allan, great video. I have a question regarding the diffusion tube you are using. I often see narrow tubes used like yours and wonder why something with a wider diameter wouldn’t be better - for example I use a 12” lamp shade. Or why not umbrellas? Is it based on flash power? Or about diffusion? Is the light more diffused if the flash gun is closer to the subject? Wondering your thoughts. Cheers
What a nice guy.
Really need a video of you and your butterfly net at the beach, Allen...
I second that, Marcelo. Allan really needs to demonstrate this.
Be patient......
Thanks for the video, great as always.
Ty
Always great tips and tricks. You give so much in your videos! I have a question, how to macro photographers make money? People photographers have many options, so too do landscape photographers, but how do macro photographers make a living from this type? Does anyone ever call and book a photoshoot for their pet beetle :) ?? I'm a new photographer and macro is really what interests me.
Hello Allan, Just came across your videos for which I am extremely grateful.
I've got a Nikon D4s and the Micro Nikkor 200mm F4 lens and now want to get even more in-depth with macro so have ordered the Nikon PB-6 bellows; what lens would you recommend for me to get as a first lens for the bellows?
How do you preserve insects?
I'm slowly watching as many of your videos as possible and will hopefully be able to put your information to good use.
Thank you so much for your work, it's greatly appreciated.
I'm in the UK by the way, in Wiltshire, not far from the neolithic stone circles at Avebury.
Depends on the magnification you are looking to shoot at. Start with a 50mm f1.8 AIS lens for up to 2x to 3x or so to 4-9x with a 24mm f2.8 AIS lens. Use the 24mm lens in reverse mounting. There is a chart in the PB6 manual on lens use vs magnification. Which by now 2 years later you already know.
I was going to buy the manfrotto 454 rail, which you have I belive. Some of the reviews on youtube suggest that its has a flimsy base, could you make a review of it or talk longer about in your next video? I was looking for something else similarly prices, and came by a linear stage device. Now I even found some video from a guy (Macro Cosmos) who (looking at his work) knows what he's doing, that these devices are far superior to all of those dedicated macro rails.
But what I now realised looking on manufactureres of those stages - the travel distance is extremaly low. We're talking 10-20-30mm, in 1um steps. Good news is they are widely used in industry so many of them can be bought salvaged from diffrent places, any build to last they are usually in very good working condition. Now I've found one which is even cheapier than manfrotto, but it is 25mm travel, when 454 has 120mm or more. I know that for me it won't probably make sense since I'm using Lumix G9 + Olympus 60mm macro with some extension tubes, so it's like 1:1 or maybe 1.3:1. How much travel do I need? I belive those stages are better for someone who needs the precision for 5:1 or more yes? I see you are using cheaper one, which in my country is almost 4 times cheaper than manfrotto 454. What would you suggest?
Pardon all misteakes, ENG is not my first language.
Hola Allan, muy buen canal y muy buenos videos que hace, estoy empezando con este tipo de fotografia, tengo tambien la nikon d7500 y uso su misma tecnica, solo que muevo con un carril micrometrico manual, me gustaria hacerle ua pregunta, usted dispara con el dial en modo S o en modo q con disparo silencioso? saludos y gracias
I watched this video with great interest. I missed something though. When you are programming the Stack Shot controller does it allow for the mirror up stage and then the actual exposure?
Hi Chris, The Stackshot doesn't know if you are raising the mirror or activating the shutter - but you can program it to send two, or more, impulses to the camera at each increment of advance. It is the camera's Mup setting that allows those signals from the rail to be interpreted as a "mirror up" and then a "shutter release" instruction. It works like a charm and drastically reduces motion artifact related to camera vibrations.
Thanks for your response. That answers my question.
Just a guess but the length of you exploding aphid is probably very close to the wavelength of the cleaner frequency. This would cause a resonance in the critter and no more critter. Obviously I can't be more specific without more detail but that is the most likely explanation. A similar thing can happen with solid objects such as small pieces of glass jewellery.
Down to the beach, what a Rebel. :)
So true! I was living on the edge that day.
How do you handle your live insects before you take photographs of it?
Hi Alan, as a macro beginner I have been trialling Helicon Focus. My question is that it comes with Helicon Remote which is software to focus bracket automatically ( I guess you know that!). It seems to work pretty well, why would I need a rail if using this method?
Hi Andrew. Helicon makes a great product and for basic tethered stacking you don't need a rail. The software adjusts the focus and brackets the images for you. However, as soon as you decide to increase magnification above 1:1, using extension tubes, enlarger lenses, reversed lenses, and even microscope objectives, this system will no longer have communication with the lens (which couldn't respond to the program anyway) and you will need a way to move the camera at set increments between shots. So for up to 1:1 (some lenses can go above this magnification) you can get by without a rail, but for higher magnification I would definitely recommend using a rail. My personal experience with stacking using the lens' internal focusing mechanism has been disappointing and I far prefer to have total control of the camera and its position using a rail (manual or automatic).
Allan Walls Photography Thanks Alan, yes I can see it now. I am sure to want higher magnification at some point as I am already amazed at what I am seeing now. I suppose I will have to save up. Thanks for the videos, I love them!
What things can cause ghosting?
Hello Allan, wonderful video. With the depth of field calculator I would have the question: with a full format Canon camera what should I use as a sensor size in micrometers? Thanks for your help. Nick from Switzerland
Hi Nick, these calculators are really only providing a good starting point and are only approximations. So you will be fine using 36mmas the width of your FF sensor. More importantly, I would use a circle of confusion estimate of 0.29 for a full frame DSLR. I don't know which calculator is asking for your sensor size in um, but they probably mean CoC, which is 29um. Hope that helps. Use calculator as a guide, but look at your images to see if you getting the DoF you need!
@@AllanWallsPhotography
Thanks Allan👍
My photo camera sensor is 29-30 microns. Now I come to the same result as the calculation shown in your video with a 4x microscope lens from WEMACRO. Thanks again for your support
Nick
Hi Allan. Thank you so much for all of your amazing videos. Your encyclopedic knowledge and your attention to detail is virtually unmatched. And coupled with your injection of humor here and there strikes a wonderful balance. I have a question for you, which could probably be posed in several of your other videos. I have a great dragonfly specimen that unfortunately met its demise in my swimming pool and is now in one of my freezers for sometime. My question is when I take it out of the freezer to photograph, is there anything special I need to do in preparation as it begins to thaw and could I just put it back in the freezer afterwards for further photography? I know my wife and children are anxious to see it and other insects removed from the freezer. 😂 Thanks again.
Hi Adam, I am not the least bit surprised to hear that your family wants the bugs out of the fridge! I avoid freezing insects because of the difficulties encountered when thawing for photography. There are a lot of potential quality issues, depending on how long it has been frozen, how long it had been dead before preserving, and how quickly it was frozen, to name a few. Bugs are as susceptible to freezer burn (ice crystal expansion breaking down the tissues) as the steak your dragonfly is perched on. Thaw it slowly in room temperature air, on an absorbent pad. Limit your cleaning to the most gentle methods (moving back and forth in warm soapy water), if needed. You may get lucky if the specimen was intact when frozen. I would avoid relaxing techniques, and if it is floppy when it thaws, gently position wings and appendages and allow it to dry slowly in that position. After you shoot it, place the dried specimen in an airtight container of ethanol (if available) or isopropyl alcohol. Definitely don't refreeze! Hope that helps! Let me know how it goes.
Allan Walls Photography - Thanks so much for the quick reply Allan. All of those tips are very helpful. It was perfectly intact and frozen very quickly after landing in my pool. Luckily we have 4 freezers in the house so this guy and a couple of others are mostly out of harms way from the family members. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again !
Have you used any of the depth of field apps that claim to make the calculations easy? Are they useful for this? Might be a good subject to cover, especially for those of us who are math challenged and generally not too bright.
Hi Owen, there is one app, designed for macro photography, that seems to give accurate and reliable numbers. It is called the PhotoPills Macro DoF calculator (search for Photo pills and it will be right there). It is also a good topic to discuss. I'll add it to the list!
@@AllanWallsPhotography Great. I'll check it out, and I'll watch for the discussion. Thanks, Allan!
Allan, Nice video. Can you explain more about DoF formula, how did you get 40um ?
Hi Gerado - the formula, when applied to the objective I was using, actually gives a DoF of 65um. If I set the step length to 65um, I would run the risk of having slightly out of focus bands between the intervals (remember that DoF is the range of acceptable sharpness - so the edges will always be less sharp than the center). So what I have done is reduce the step length to 60% of the DoF, to minimize the inclusion of anything but the sharpest areas for each step. It is a matter of preference. Some photographers are OK with a 20% overlap and will use a step length of 50um. I prefer shorter steps to maximize overall sharpness.
@@AllanWallsPhotography thank you very much, I appreciate your quit response. Stay safe
It would be helpful if you gave links to all the clamps and holders you use
I second that motion!
Hi Tony - I apologize for that oversight - which clamps are you referring to? Leave a reply and I will send you the links.
Here’s one I saw thats similar to Allan’s. KOTTO Third Hand Soldering Tool PCB Holder Four Magnetic Based Flexible Metal Arms Helping Hands Crafts Jewelry Hobby Workshop Helping Station Non-Slip Steel Weighted Base www.amazon.com/dp/B07W42SR65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J7cSEbBS6HMVR
Which microscopic lens do you use most often?
I believe he is using the AmScope Plan 4x lens that is a finite lens. Not infinity corrected. Supposed to have it set to 160mm from end of lens to sensor for the best focus quality. I have that and the 10x lens myself. Love those bits of glass.
For low magnification (4x) I prefer the AmScope Plan 4x (only $20!) and for mid range I love the Nikon CFI Plan 10x Achromat ($250). That Nikon is the best photography microscope objective I have ever used.
@@AllanWallsPhotography They have different markings. Is it that particular lens?
www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Plan-10x-M25-CFI-Infinity-Eclipse-Microscope-Objective/264628932534?hash=item3d9d1d0fb6:g:QpsAAOSw4pteQGyC
@@AllanWallsPhotographyJust found you Today Allen and I liked the video and the only question I have is where do you get the adapters to fix these lens to the crra please.
Hi Allan, tha ks for the video.. I will be up for zoom meetup to learn, please share how you do that
Hi Jacob, I have a live event coming up, and that is a good venue to get your questions answered. If you are interested in setting up some one-on-one Zoom time to address your specific interests, all you need to do is drop me a line at contact@allanwallsphotography.com and let me know when you would like to get together. I will respond with the details.
160mm from the camera sensor to the rear of the objective.
Is that the back end of the Microscope objective? I'm sure that the answer is self evident, but I thought I'd ask anyway :)
In most cases yes 160mm is required for finite objectives, that said different manufacturers used different tube lengths. What objective are you using?
@@WilliamBanik Same as Allan, except with a bevel at the front. All the specs line up with his, same manufacturer as well. I'm going to guess that the rear of the lens is a ballpark, and I can focus from there. Thing is, I am waiting for two more adapters to arrive before I can actually test this for myself.
The measurement is to the back of the rear element. Looking at the objective from the side, that corresponds to the end of the knurling, closest to the camera. I tried to add an image - but it won't let me!
@@AllanWallsPhotography - Perfect, thank you!
@@AllanWallsPhotography what happens when I don't respect this distance? Because I hear that the first time and I was adjusting the Bellow to the size ( magnification ) what I won't shortening or complete length.
Hello Allan, Love your CZcams videos and have been following you for a while. Your formula stumped me when I tried to calculate my step distance. Please would you you be able to help me calculate my info if I provided all the details? Thanks very much
Thanks Arvind - I have replied to your question via email.
I hope to see a tutorial about a super macro lens called Canon MPE-65.
Hi Sal, I do not own a copy of that lens, though I have used it in the past. I will try to get my hands on one for a few days and report back on my experience. My main concern, when using it in the past, was the degree of diffraction softening caused by high effective apertures at higher magnification ratios. But I am always ready to give something a second look! Thanks for the comment.
@@AllanWallsPhotography Thanks Allan, look forward for it. And thanks for your great education videos!
Excellent video as always. I always pick up a few pointers from each one... Also, you referenced my question about the ultrasonic cleaner... For clarification, my real name is Hill Robertson. My channel name is "Miser Maker" because I make things (Maker) and I'm always trying to do things on the "cheap" (Miser). I'm thinking about adding videos about macro photography now that I'm really getting into it. I did get a cheap cleaner that runs at 42kHz. I used it the first time on a small grasshopper and it worked fine at 90 seconds. I'll have to test it on some less robust insects to really put it to the test. But so far, so good... Here are a couple of questions... I'm considering photographing spiders. Likely starting with live jumping spiders since that seems to be a popular way to start. But, I've got tons of spiders all around my house and wouldn't mind collecting some and staging them for a photoshoot. Since they are arachnids and a little different that most insects, what if anything do you do differently to collect and photograph spiders? Thanks so much!
Hi Hill - we have communicated before but I didn't make the connection! I like the moniker, though. That is a really good question about spiders. They are extremely fragile, lacking a chitinous exoskeleton, and have to be handles very carefully. The best bet is to photograph them alive with nice soft light and a good macro lens. For higher magnification, posed shots, you need to use the specimen immediately - they do not preserve well and would not fare well in the US cleaner. I also avoid pinning them, as their insides liquify very quickly and the whole thing will collapse. I use a fine bristle dipped in superglue to secure the abdomen and pose them using the bristle as a handle. Another consideration is that they never stop moving - limbs will contract and extend for a long time as they start to decompose. This is worse with tiny spiders. So to minimize motion artifact, I shoot my stack as quickly as possible but still need to be prepared to do some selective retouching in Zerene and a ton of editing in Photoshop to fix the limb positions. Lastly, I wouldn't bother trying to preserve spiders - it never seems to work. Good luck, and let me see some of your images! I love spiders!
Well done........tho I'm beginning to wonder if you have spies in my studio?...........Note- still ,looking for an image worthy of your book..........
Maybe so... I have them everywhere...
Hello
Allan
Your work is amazing, I like the way you explain things, I see that you have a passion for macro.
If you want you can see my channel, I also do macro, but I built my stacking raill.
one day there will be no paper cash that could possibly happen
If I'm hearing you right you're actually moving the camera a tiny bit if you move the camera doesn't that change the size of the image even though it's very small amount how can you focus stack if the images are all slightly bigger. Shouldn't your focus tag by adjusting the focus not moving the camera. Just as a sidenote I am enjoying your videos.
Joe Deso I’m having same problem too. My image sizes are changing as I move my camera to focus on different parts of my specimen.
What happens for me when I focus stack, it doesn’t get bigger rather the framing changes, the software for stacking should be able to correct any issues with that .