Thanks for that alignment tip about raising the rear of the cab. Right now I am trying to decide what holes I In the firewall that can be eliminated. Already have the AC side done.
This is a good example of yesterday gm builds ,I built my 67 c 10 two years ago lots n lots of work n money I'm loving it when I drive it.nothing matches .lol.
Curt, I found your diagnostics and fix to be perfect for this ole girl. Like you said, a mix of new with the OEM cab creates its own problems. I am a retired tech and have seen my share of guys stop their project cars after years of weekends. You know, the cool old classics that catch your eye, but the vehicle has 5 color panels, they are stuck driving it to work everyday, they start a family and the wife hints at a minivan, 14 baby seats of different size, more food, more clothes, etc. Then one day, no cool old classic. I have a 67 C10, Tahoe engine and the overdrive tranny I build two winters ago. Retired, with pain, move slower but still get one thing done per day. DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech since 78
I’m happy that my video helped you out. That’s usually the case when many start a project. They underestimate the time and money that goes into it. I do try to let people know that in my videos because people need to understand it’s not for the faint of heart to undertake such a project.
Thanks for the comment. I’m hoping to achieve even better door gaps when I fine tune things after paint and final assembly. I’ll also do a video on that as getting the hood and doors aligned after removing the hinges can be a little tricky.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 The main alignment issues I’ve seen on new trucks is the cab to bed alignment… I know the bed to frame has some plastic alignment dowels but they don’t always fix the issue. Sometimes it’s just moving the bed left to right but usually it’s one side sitting higher than the other.
@@gearjonny369 I’ve been doing this for 25 years and year after year it never ceases to amaze me how poorly vehicles are being made. The cost is astronomical and the components and amount of plastics used gets cheaper and cheaper. Vehicles today are made to be disposable. Manufacturers want you to keep buying new once your warranty is up. It is very unfortunate really.
I have a 65. If I look down my driver’s side, the box and cab are pretty smooth and flush with each other. Down the passenger side the box appears to be more narrow than the cab by 2”???
@@grumpy1962R so after contemplating your question. I’ll try to answer it the best i can. I have seen some trucks where the bed or the cab seems narrower. Usually if you center everything it ends up looking pretty decent, sometimes it’s hard to judge with all the curves on older trucks. The best thing to do in your case is asssuming your frame is perfectly straight then find the center of your frame and mark the center of the cab and bed from underneath and center them on the frame. Normally there is enough adjustment to accomplish this. You didn’t say if you have a step side or fleet side bed. If it is a step side then I believe they are a little narrower by design. If it is a fleet side then it should be much closer in width to the cab. If you have a fleet side and centering everything looks all wrong then I’m at a loss why there is that much discrepancy between the two.
Unfortunately it’s not in the video but I did fit the hood to check the gaps and it fits just fine to the fenders and cowl panel. I won’t be putting it back on until final assembly so that will be quite some time. But when I do I will explain how to shim the hood hinges for a proper hood fit.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 That is the one I am most interested in. My 72 Cheyenne is close enough to make the latch work, but not spot on and that alignment has eluded me so far....I am 78, so maybe it will be up to the grandson.
Usually with the hood it is a combination of adjusting the hood hinge height and sometimes adding shims. As with any body panel, usually it’s just a matter of spending time and making a lot of little adjustments. It can be frustrating and sometimes it can take quite a few hours to adjust everything to make it look good.
Well, that was the initial idea when I started to build and sell it for a profit then start another, but honestly now it could go either way. I guess I won’t be able to answer that till it is finished.
@@rarebreed6703 I’ll have over 40K just in parts and supplies like paint. Over 500 hours labor at the minimum. Currently I’ve spent half that in both categories. In my mind I was thinking of selling it for at least 60K but for any less than that I’ll keep it.
Thanks for that alignment tip about raising the rear of the cab. Right now I am trying to decide what holes I
In the firewall that can be eliminated. Already have the AC side done.
This is a good example of yesterday gm builds ,I built my 67 c 10 two years ago lots n lots of work n money I'm loving it when I drive it.nothing matches .lol.
Curt, I found your diagnostics and fix to be perfect for this ole girl. Like you said, a mix of new with the OEM cab creates its own problems. I am a retired tech and have seen my share of guys stop their project cars after years of weekends. You know, the cool old classics that catch your eye, but the vehicle has 5 color panels, they are stuck driving it to work everyday, they start a family and the wife hints at a minivan, 14 baby seats of different size, more food, more clothes, etc. Then one day, no cool old classic. I have a 67 C10, Tahoe engine and the overdrive tranny I build two winters ago. Retired, with pain, move slower but still get one thing done per day.
DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech since 78
I’m happy that my video helped you out. That’s usually the case when many start a project. They underestimate the time and money that goes into it. I do try to let people know that in my videos because people need to understand it’s not for the faint of heart to undertake such a project.
Looks Good!
Good job, always a great thing to see.. that others are seeing the exact same challenges
Right on brother
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Excellent work sir. I’ve had a new 2019, 2021 and now a 2022 Silverado… all have worse gaps straight from GM.
Thanks for the comment. I’m hoping to achieve even better door gaps when I fine tune things after paint and final assembly. I’ll also do a video on that as getting the hood and doors aligned after removing the hinges can be a little tricky.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 The main alignment issues I’ve seen on new trucks is the cab to bed alignment… I know the bed to frame has some plastic alignment dowels but they don’t always fix the issue. Sometimes it’s just moving the bed left to right but usually it’s one side sitting higher than the other.
@@gearjonny369 I’ve been doing this for 25 years and year after year it never ceases to amaze me how poorly vehicles are being made. The cost is astronomical and the components and amount of plastics used gets cheaper and cheaper. Vehicles today are made to be disposable. Manufacturers want you to keep buying new once your warranty is up. It is very unfortunate really.
I have a 65. If I look down my driver’s side, the box and cab are pretty smooth and flush with each other. Down the passenger side the box appears to be more narrow than the cab by 2”???
@@grumpy1962R so after contemplating your question. I’ll try to answer it the best i can. I have seen some trucks where the bed or the cab seems narrower. Usually if you center everything it ends up looking pretty decent, sometimes it’s hard to judge with all the curves on older trucks. The best thing to do in your case is asssuming your frame is perfectly straight then find the center of your frame and mark the center of the cab and bed from underneath and center them on the frame. Normally there is enough adjustment to accomplish this. You didn’t say if you have a step side or fleet side bed. If it is a step side then I believe they are a little narrower by design. If it is a fleet side then it should be much closer in width to the cab. If you have a fleet side and centering everything looks all wrong then I’m at a loss why there is that much discrepancy between the two.
Love to see what an how the hood works out.
Unfortunately it’s not in the video but I did fit the hood to check the gaps and it fits just fine to the fenders and cowl panel. I won’t be putting it back on until final assembly so that will be quite some time. But when I do I will explain how to shim the hood hinges for a proper hood fit.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 That is the one I am most interested in. My 72 Cheyenne is close enough to make the latch work, but not spot on and that alignment has eluded me so far....I am 78, so maybe it will be up to the grandson.
Usually with the hood it is a combination of adjusting the hood hinge height and sometimes adding shims. As with any body panel, usually it’s just a matter of spending time and making a lot of little adjustments. It can be frustrating and sometimes it can take quite a few hours to adjust everything to make it look good.
Looks awesome. Are u selling her?
Well, that was the initial idea when I started to build and sell it for a profit then start another, but honestly now it could go either way. I guess I won’t be able to answer that till it is finished.
Any idea how much?
@@rarebreed6703 I’ll have over 40K just in parts and supplies like paint. Over 500 hours labor at the minimum. Currently I’ve spent half that in both categories. In my mind I was thinking of selling it for at least 60K but for any less than that I’ll keep it.
Good tip😊s but How did you raise it?
Wow! What a waste of my time