The Story of the Indian Face: the UK's first E9 climb
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2020
- “A pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension,” said Paul Williams in his 1989 guidebook.
The Indian Face might not be the UK's hardest rock climb, but it's probably its most infamous. This tenuous climb, high on the sides of Snowdon was the UK's first E9. With hardly any protection, falling off from the upper sections is thought to be fatal.
When Johnny Dawes made the first ascent in October 1986, it made headlines for being "the world's hardest climb"
More info on UKClimbing: www.ukclimbing.com/articles/f...
Johnny Dawes & The story of Indian Face is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. It was directed by Alun Hughes in 2006 and produced by Hughes Film. It features Johnny Dawes, Joe Brown, Nick Dixon and John Redhead.
Fun Fact: Top climber James McHaffie reckons that Master's Wall was actually our first E9. He told us "It got graded E7 but people repeated it the wrong way. And the guidebook was wrong. It’s not been verified apart from my view and ascent but I’m positive it’s as hard as The Indian Face."
This film is part of The Alun Hughes Collection. BMC TV is hosting the films of the The Alun Hughes Collection here on our CZcams channel. All films remain copyright Alun Hughes.
View the full playlist: • The Alun Hughes Collec...
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11:06 - when Joe Brown compliments your bravery as such, you have been paid a MASSIVE compliment.
As a Yank Climber whose backyard was Yosemite Valley & climbed through the incomparable 80’s .... the British scene was by far the most interesting. Their combination of boldness & technical difficulties & willingness to push standards were second to none. In particular I loved the wildness & commitment of the Johnies; Johnny Woodward, John Redhead, Johnny Dawes & John“One Tonne” Dunne ..... and we’ll never see their like again
I clicked on it because i thought the title meant the Rupal Face. But English climbers were the first fun climbers, and a huge proportion of the greats, until people caught onto their own Alps.
We'll never see anybody's like again - treasure ALL your moments. We won't see yours- but just knowing you are, will be, were,, is pretty much more cosmic than any nirvana or satori. Salud, amigo.
@george mira ...... 😂Indeed, The Cosmic Eternal. շնորհակալություն ընկեր
shnorhakalut’yun ynker
Thank you Friend
@@snips832 ..... Bugger off Mate, there’s no wanky froggy 🐸 mustard ‘ere. If borrowing Mustard is your aim, then it’s COLEMANS HOT MUSTARD....Now that’s spot on
Johnny Allen too of course
Thank you so much for putting this together
I was at Manchester the same time as Johnny - he was (supposed to be) studying Geology (poss as a joint degree) and I was doing Geography so we shared a lot of lectures and practicals. Various memories include him wandering around the uni carrying his boots, traversing across any available vertical surface, rolling his van (I think a Bedford Rascal which was quickly replaced) and being the first to walk out of most exams. He certainly had plenty of self confidence which brought with it the potential to appear arrogant, as can so many uniquely talented people. Sadly those of us who were around him on a daily basis did not fully appreciate the talent he had and, at times, he could be a bit of an annoying distraction to some! Even though I called myself a climber in those days I had no idea of the level he was at - he just appeared to be very enthusiastic and bouncy.
Although sharing a similar taste in mullet hairstyles (which were very much of the time) and climbing I was far from the rock athlete that Johnny was - at best I could lead HVS/E1 at Stanage, but I managed to get in two seasons in the Alps in 1984 and 1985 which seemed to at least register. So much so that I was once asked if I wanted to accompany him on a Sunday trip to Wales (I think in February 1986). I misunderstood what the day held and turned up with my then ice boots (early Koflachs) and was somewhat surprised when he brought out his Fires. Turned out that I had been asked along to act as ballast whilst he practiced further on the route - and I was the heaviest muppet he could persuade to accompany him on a freezing Sunday!
That was a long time ago and many memories too - hope life has treated you well Johnny, and that you have stood the test of time better than I perhaps have (I'd currently struggle to get my harness on let alone do any climbing)!
Thanks for taking us back. I was likely an arse. Wanted to do certain things. Most don't quite. Determined to do it.
Johnny Dawes was the name I heard most mentioned when I was lucky enough to be involved in the North Wales climbing scene in the late 90's/early 2000's. Legend.
This is even more of an important document now Joe Brown is sadly no longer with us. What a film.
I'm really out of touch with the climbing scene now. wasn't aware that Joe Brown had passed. Massive respect to one of the top climbers in the world!
Cool music. Thanks for posting this guys xxx
Bloody brilliant. Thanks for posting
A painting where the rock has gone when you know how it would pss someone off? No wonder he was annoyed.
Brilliant. Good history I never knew about aswell.
Absolute Classic Cheers Johnny
Great climb Thanks for sharing All the best to Johnny
Thank you Paul
Excellent film, brilliant.
What I enjoyed most about this video is his perspective on the climb and why he did it
Great video and great climb (NOT that I've done it, or anywhere near that grade!). There was a time where climbing at that level was one of my life goals, but I was never good enough. E5 was my limit. I honestly never had the commitment to risk almost certain death for climbing. I met Johnny (Dawes) a couple of times at the Foundry wall in Sheffield, probably in about 1993. He was just there having a laugh with his mates, on the bouldering wall, doing some absolutely crazy moves. Massively inspiring to watch.
That was a great period for me.
25:21. “How do you describe the presence of essential feeling within yourself?” I find this to be a true, profound question…
Makes what ‘Joseph Smith‘ has done look even more impressive!
Legend.
This film was made 14 years ago. I hope the “artist” Redhead has got over himself by now. Oozing with bitterness and envy, oh how he wished it had all been about him.
Breaking a flake isn't willfully damaging the rock. Painting all over it _definitely_ is.
"Using sports climbing tactics"... after placing a bolt! 😂
There is a lot more to “sport climbing tactics” than just placing a bolt!
I like how John Redhead was criticising Johnny for using sport climbing techniques when Redhead was drilling bolts and at least defending chipping.
There is something truly inspiring about the climbs and climbers of this era that the latest, “greatest” modern sport climb will never come close to touching.
Agree, it's called sentimentalism. Why greatest in parentheses? Are you implying that climbers of the 80's could climb 9c, 8B+ Flash, 9a Onsight etc.? They were the best at their time but as in every other sport, people improve the craft and develop the sport. In basketball people always say that there never be someone like Michael Jordan again. But in the early 80's same thing was being said about Dr. J. In terms of bold trad Macleod surpassed Dawes (with all due respect) by a lot.
@@gallanonim6535 “Greatest” is in quotes (not parentheses) because each generation seems to think what they have done is new, groundbreaking and will not be surpassed…which, if you’ve been around long enough, you’ll realize is a load of crap. Many times young folks forget that they are standing on the shoulders of their predecessors…there would be no 5.14 climbs without Royal Robbins having climbed 5.9 in the ‘50’s.
Dave climbed it, right?
Hardly seen any protection so I can only presume any fall would be a long one?
Good
Mr Redhead is like a naughty elf 🤣
This is not new but, its brilliant!
Nails ,🤟
Great climber no doubt, but talks in riddles
I think he climbed in riddles as well. Have you tried any of his slab routes :-)
great vid. great english history
@Pete is never wrong Easy fellas...it's British history. :)
LIKE 78, ,dear friend ♡
have a good day 🤗
78? Intriguing..
❤😁🇬🇧 my arse is making buttons.
You’ll never forget what a raspberry tastes like
Interesting nobody remember you if you climb e9 in a climbing wall
Borderline alcoholic on half a bottle of whiskey a week. I guess times have changed.
It's Diffwys Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. The rock on the right is Ystlys Clogwyn Du'r Arddu.Why the need to put foreign names on this Rock and many others in Eryri
The gully is called Hafn Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
Not blaming Johnny of course but this whole renaming of everywhere in our last stronghold of independence has an air of final colonisation
I called it Indian face. A name given by a Welsh friend. Gabwt.
@@johnnydawesofficial oh he didn t know the traditional name then
@@johnnydawesofficial I remember a Gabwt from years ago from Trawsfynydd or nearby I think.He must have been smoking something strong if he saw an Indian Face on Clogwyn Du 'r Arddu!
Johnny Dawes looks like a bit like Chris Sharma here. Not so much anymore...
... and?
It sounds like you're glad I'm ill.
@@johnnydawes7099 best wishes dude , i didnt know you were ill ! hope your back to yourself soon
Brilliant film and I watched a lot of this footage hundreds of times, ;-)
@@johnnydawes7099 Really sad to hear this, we met and spoke once in Pete's Eats 4-5 years ago, we chatted about becoming good at climbing by breaking down the task and a small persons learning gym/toy amongst other things, I enjoyed it, and went to play in Dinorwig afterwards, marveling at Rainbow slab and The Quarrymen.
Positivity of the mind is powerful and the placebo effect is the way forward, be good to yourself, your a massive hero to me!
@@johnnydawes7099 - My oldest son was born the day you did this route ...I remember reading about you in a climbing magazine not long after , you seemed like a pretty driven kind of guy ,but very likeable ...33 yrs ago
Wtf is e9? Weird English metrics system....
Stands for extreme 9. The highest is 11 but 9 was at the time