If that was a brand-new hole saw you should have returned it because the paint was almost completely worn off which would indicate prior use. The used carbide saw actually had more paint on it than the "brand-new" bi-metal saw. Jus sayin
The carbide bit is harder than the material that it's cutting through, hence it _will_ cut through it, cleanly and quite quickly too. Harder always beats hard. Great practical demo video, do keep posting up these vids. 👍🥇😉✨
You just saved me from destroying the bi-metal hole saw blade I just got to cut into some steel pipes. I'll be heading back to the store to get a carbide one now instead. Thanks!
If you use correct speeds and some cutting oil, bi-metal will do the job just fine. This guy just burned out his saw in an absolutely ridiculous way as click bait.
This is a brand new hole saw.......never mind that i didn't show you the teeth or all of the paint that is wore off before I used it. These are the new hippster hole saws
Stainless steel will work harden very quickly mate. You should be drilling with high pressure low rpm and cutting fluid. You could have done the job with the first holesaw no issue if you knew how to work with stainless steel.
Man you got to learn how to drill stainless. I use 4" lennox bi metal hole saws to drill holes into 1/4 stainless plate and tanks all the time. If you are having a hard time getting the pilot bit through that's already a red flag for me.
Hi Wayne, Thanks again for another great video (I watched you kill a diamond hole saw on SS). I think what some of your critics are missing is that if you must get a job done under difficult conditions with unavoidable high cutting speed and no coolant or lubricant, you might as well use the best/toughest cutting tips. Are all carbide-tipped hole saws good for this? How many holes like that would you get from that cutter? For 1.0mm SS, I plan to use a drill press and the lowest speed and cooling/lubricant, but it looks like the carbide tip would still be the best shot. Thanks again, very valuable despite the critics. Tim
Run the saw through the door to drill the pilot hole in the right spot. Then with masking tape applied to the other side I would drill from the outside of the door so you can apply cutting fluid. Turn the drill speed way down and you may be able to use a bi metal saw. Of coarse on that stainless I would drill my pilot and then use a knockout set instead
Yes, carbide is better but bi-metal will cut SS with very slow speed and high depth of cut (lots and lots of pressure). Annular cutters are even better than hole saws.
No coolant. Too high an RPM. I could go on. How about remove the door, place the surface flat and horizontal, use lots of coolant and slowest RMP possible. This just a demo on how to burn up a used bi-metal. Yes carbide is better but if you are doing 1 or 2 holes bi-metal will do if you follow the right steps.
He just killed bi metal holesaw by incorrect usage. Always read on packaging about appropriate RPM which you have to maintain within drilling process! He just pushed his screwdriver to the max! obviously, too high RPM. And using of coolant (like oil) increases lifetime significantly!
Doubtful. Grouted doors are a bastard. A carbide tipped bit like a masonry bit will take forever to get thru the steel and anything other than a masonry bit gets smoked the minute it hits the grout. And I'm talking drill bits not holes saws. Most door guys use tech screws to get thru the metal then switch to a masonry bit if they must drill into the grout.
I made like 20 holes 2" in a 1/4 stainless plate with bi-metal pferd or lennox I think. Thing is that i think that bimetall is one mistake=new hole saw.
If this guy can cut through 3/4 of an inch steel wirh a bi-metal hole saw some thin stainless should be no ptoblem at all. Speed/lubrication will help tremendously. czcams.com/video/UXaSGRgvqZs/video.htmlsi=ZOU3bYwNSNbOZ-hb
I tried the a few cheapo kits. The $20 masterforce set template more solid tool but the hole saw not carbide. In a week I broke 3 the 1/4 pilot bits. Most residential doors dont have wood blocks or theres only partial blocks. Sucks because the 1/4 bit has no solid hold and suddenly takes off and breaks the bit ripping a GOUGE. So i had to reverse the drill. Useing half inch drill with side handel. Any help please.
Lubricate, push hard and turn slow with stainless and you can make tools last longer.
Thanks Wayne.
If that was a brand-new hole saw you should have returned it because the paint was almost completely worn off which would indicate prior use. The used carbide saw actually had more paint on it than the "brand-new" bi-metal saw. Jus sayin
Thank you. I gotta drill one tomorrow for a commercial customer
The carbide bit is harder than the material that it's cutting through, hence it _will_ cut through it, cleanly and quite quickly too. Harder always beats hard. Great practical demo video, do keep posting up these vids. 👍🥇😉✨
You just saved me from destroying the bi-metal hole saw blade I just got to cut into some steel pipes. I'll be heading back to the store to get a carbide one now instead. Thanks!
If you use correct speeds and some cutting oil, bi-metal will do the job just fine. This guy just burned out his saw in an absolutely ridiculous way as click bait.
This is a brand new hole saw.......never mind that i didn't show you the teeth or all of the paint that is wore off before I used it. These are the new hippster hole saws
Metal cutting lubricant fluid can help a lot too
Stainless steel will work harden very quickly mate. You should be drilling with high pressure low rpm and cutting fluid. You could have done the job with the first holesaw no issue if you knew how to work with stainless steel.
Not to mention he's gonna eventually kill that 1/2" cordless drill punching bigger holes with a holesaw like that.
You spin the drill first thing in the video and you can see it's not new due to the fact the paint was worn and scuffed. So I call bs.
Great share young buck. I definitely will buy a carbide ! Cheers, Jeff
Man you got to learn how to drill stainless. I use 4" lennox bi metal hole saws to drill holes into 1/4 stainless plate and tanks all the time. If you are having a hard time getting the pilot bit through that's already a red flag for me.
Hi Wayne, Thanks again for another great video (I watched you kill a diamond hole saw on SS). I think what some of your critics are missing is that if you must get a job done under difficult conditions with unavoidable high cutting speed and no coolant or lubricant, you might as well use the best/toughest cutting tips. Are all carbide-tipped hole saws good for this? How many holes like that would you get from that cutter? For 1.0mm SS, I plan to use a drill press and the lowest speed and cooling/lubricant, but it looks like the carbide tip would still be the best shot.
Thanks again, very valuable despite the critics. Tim
Run the saw through the door to drill the pilot hole in the right spot. Then with masking tape applied to the other side I would drill from the outside of the door so you can apply cutting fluid. Turn the drill speed way down and you may be able to use a bi metal saw. Of coarse on that stainless I would drill my pilot and then use a knockout set instead
great video. Greetings from Pakistan
Yes, carbide is better but bi-metal will cut SS with very slow speed and high depth of cut (lots and lots of pressure). Annular cutters are even better than hole saws.
In what gear was your drill in, good video 😎👏👏👏
Excellent...!!!
Just what I was looking for amen...
No coolant. Too high an RPM. I could go on. How about remove the door, place the surface flat and horizontal, use lots of coolant and slowest RMP possible. This just a demo on how to burn up a used bi-metal. Yes carbide is better but if you are doing 1 or 2 holes bi-metal will do if you follow the right steps.
He just killed bi metal holesaw by incorrect usage. Always read on packaging about appropriate RPM which you have to maintain within drilling process! He just pushed his screwdriver to the max! obviously, too high RPM. And using of coolant (like oil) increases lifetime significantly!
i recommend cutting paste instead of coolant or oil
Thanks Wayne, useful tip.
Doing security install I only use carbide works great when door frame is concrete filled any other bit dies as soon as it hits the concrete
Doubtful. Grouted doors are a bastard. A carbide tipped bit like a masonry bit will take forever to get thru the steel and anything other than a masonry bit gets smoked the minute it hits the grout. And I'm talking drill bits not holes saws. Most door guys use tech screws to get thru the metal then switch to a masonry bit if they must drill into the grout.
Same for cutting welded material, 500-700 GPa is way to hard for bimetall
I made like 20 holes 2" in a 1/4 stainless plate with bi-metal pferd or lennox I think. Thing is that i think that bimetall is one mistake=new hole saw.
I can't stop looking at your tool when you making that hole....mmm...
If you had turned the drill speed right down and applied cutting fluid you would have faired much better with the bi-metal hole saw.
Carbide holesaws are great but misusing your bi-metal blade, no cutting fluid, overheating, fast rpm is incorrectly using the tool.
Low speed, high pressure and some lubricant or even water. Bi-metal will get through SS
Affiliate link?
hi thanks for the information. does it help to use some type of coolant or lubricant?
Brand new blades aren't pre-worn
bro save my life .
That was not a brand new hole saw he says at the beg. here. geez
Beautiful install
can I use it to make a 1 inch hole on a concrete wall?
Horizontal / Level would be nice?
If this guy can cut through 3/4 of an inch steel wirh a bi-metal hole saw some thin stainless should be no ptoblem at all. Speed/lubrication will help tremendously. czcams.com/video/UXaSGRgvqZs/video.htmlsi=ZOU3bYwNSNbOZ-hb
Not a new hole saw!!!!
I tried the a few cheapo kits. The $20 masterforce set template more solid tool but the hole saw not carbide. In a week I broke 3 the 1/4 pilot bits. Most residential doors dont have wood blocks or theres only partial blocks. Sucks because the 1/4 bit has no solid hold and suddenly takes off and breaks the bit ripping a GOUGE. So i had to reverse the drill. Useing half inch drill with side handel.
Any help please.
Quit buying the cheap shit.
You have poor drilling technique.
you seem like a great guy, but don't make videos on things you don't understand trying to act like an authority figure. it's kinda goofy.
I just saw a man sex up a door.
Smh......