On April 19, 2011, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of his longtime project First Round First Minute, 5.15b (9b), in Margalef, Spain. Here he is working it the year before the send.
Congratulations to Adam Ondra, who made the second ascent of FRFM on February 3, 2014, nearly three years after Sharma completed the route. Ondra gave it the grade of 9b, or 5.15b.
Once you try it, you'll understand. It's all about pushing yourself to your absolute limit and accomplishing things you've never done before. You feel really fulfilled and like you can do anything. It's an amazing feeling that you really have to experience to know.
i love that sharma makes every fuckin move like it could be his last. dude just come flying off the rock with ever greased attempt. he's the best all-around climber ever!
You have to do it to understand. It's all about the feeling you get when you get to the top, and accomplish something that you keep trying and trying at. It's not for everybody, but everybody should try it.
Once you start climbing, instead of watching videos about climbing, you will realise. It is the sense of achievement after, and the anguish is also fun in its own way...
because working on something really hard and having it pay off is really rewarding. There are also many different types of fun and they are all completely subjective. Some people think chess is fun while others get their kicks climbing hard steep rock faces. To each their own.
Just the constant intermediate movements following with crazy static lock ups makes this one of the hardest sport routes in my opinion. I mean every move looks like a V10 or higher boulder problem
Just my opinion here. It's the progression that's fun. Taking something that at one point seemed utterly impossible to you and making it possible. Finding sequences and the feeling of weightlessness that comes with it.
@codyhansonbass - I think he's saying that the route/problem feels like one long crux. A crux is the most difficult part of a climb. On a normal route/problem you usually have one, or two crux's. But on bouldering, since it's such a short distance, it usually consist of a bunch of crux's. So when it says it's bouldering style, I take it was it's made of one difficult move after another.
@budsAok420 It's true. Climbing has become so specialized that you cannot simply say one person is the best. You must break it down to the style of climbing to be more accurate. For sport climbing, it's safe to say Chris Sharma has established more difficult routes than anyone else; and continues to do so. Over a decade of pushing his limits. Tommy Caldwell for Trad climbing; just look at his free-climbing of El Cap's hardest multi-pitch routes. No easy way to pick bouldering's best.
@sarvelaj I think it's 5.15b. I read an article saying that it was. But apparently chris doesn't care too much about grading his first ascents? Also no one else has tried this route so nobody can compare with the grade.
i've always wondered how they got the safety bolts in in the first place. if its such a hard climb, how can someone manage to bolt something in while climbing?
Is Chris Sharma still the best in the world or did anyone harder routes then him? Didnt watch climbing a long time now and didnt climb for 4years so if anyone could get me up to date :P
Some people likes to challenge themselves. The feeling of accomplishment is FUN and it feels amazing. You must not have accomplished anything in your life?
Maybe not his best king line and maybe after 1000 repeats so slippy that it gets unclimbable but the intro moves with the possibility of speed up movements are sensational ! Venga , xy ? ... means for sure : " Go bunny, go ! " :)
All I wanted to point out is that sometimes stuff doesn't look fun when you're watching it on youtube. Given that he doesn't find it fun makes me think that he hasn't tried rock climbing or is otherwise uncapable of climbing higher grades (which is fine, I can't either). I was also implying that maybe he should give it a try and then say whether it is fun or not (although, it just might not be the sport for him slash her).
I'm going to ask a stupid question and I am sorry for it but do you ever run into scorpions on your climbs? They are a big problem in Texas of the southern part of the United States.
Fortunately there are hardly an scorpions around most european regions. The common yellow scorpion can be found in some places if you keen on finding one - but no incident connected with climbers is known so far here.
Knowing chris sharma cant all ways clip in first time makes me feel better about my clipping
Who came here after seeing Adam's video about El Potro? Haha
Congratulations to Adam Ondra, who made the second ascent of FRFM on February 3, 2014, nearly three years after Sharma completed the route. Ondra gave it the grade of 9b, or 5.15b.
Congratulations to Alexander Megos with the third ascent of FRFM!
I watched this a lot. A lot, a lot, a lot. I watched this video too many times! :)
Once you try it, you'll understand. It's all about pushing yourself to your absolute limit and accomplishing things you've never done before. You feel really fulfilled and like you can do anything. It's an amazing feeling that you really have to experience to know.
Daila is a great climber herself, she's not just there to belay, she climbs 8c herself and is one of the top female climbers out there!
i love that sharma makes every fuckin move like it could be his last. dude just come flying off the rock with ever greased attempt. he's the best all-around climber ever!
Chris is the best!!!! its movie is a strong demostration.....
and spanish have a good history on the climb
HE FINALLY DID IT :D
AWSOME, YOU GO MAN!
this route is freaking beast. reminds me of "Short and Savage" in Ton Sai, Thailand. Except its not short, and the wall is way steeper.
You have to do it to understand. It's all about the feeling you get when you get to the top, and accomplish something that you keep trying and trying at. It's not for everybody, but everybody should try it.
Once you start climbing, instead of watching videos about climbing, you will realise. It is the sense of achievement after, and the anguish is also fun in its own way...
want to see the ascent!! can't wait for it!
All of you haters zitto! This guy is on a whole different train of thought then the norm, that is what allows him to be as good as he is.
because working on something really hard and having it pay off is really rewarding. There are also many different types of fun and they are all completely subjective. Some people think chess is fun while others get their kicks climbing hard steep rock faces. To each their own.
Genial Chaval... es alucinante ver como eres capaz de darle una y otra vez..... Lo conseguiras......
I dont about anybody else, but I lose focus when people try to talk to me when Im climbing..I like silence.
My palms are sweating from just watching them climb.
Has anyone else noticed that Chris has been wearing the same shirt for the last 10 years
2:35 nice to see the pros do it too
Just the constant intermediate movements following with crazy static lock ups makes this one of the hardest sport routes in my opinion. I mean every move looks like a V10 or higher boulder problem
Just my opinion here. It's the progression that's fun. Taking something that at one point seemed utterly impossible to you and making it possible. Finding sequences and the feeling of weightlessness that comes with it.
Now that hes done it, i'll be keen to see how many attempts it'll take for Ondra to send it.
@codyhansonbass - I think he's saying that the route/problem feels like one long crux.
A crux is the most difficult part of a climb.
On a normal route/problem you usually have one, or two crux's. But on bouldering, since it's such a short distance, it usually consist of a bunch of crux's.
So when it says it's bouldering style, I take it was it's made of one difficult move after another.
My hands and feet get sweaty just watching.
yeah, I know but think of the number of videos you see of Chris climbing and who is at the end of the rope :)
OOOH!
AAAAHH!
UHH UHH UHH!
... I tried this root too many times
Can anyone identify the song playing for the first minute or so for me please ?
@myFlowX Adam Ondra is beastin it up
Almost died laughing when i heard that surprised noise :P
gotta love sharmas vocalizations
@kyatso1 its a shame there is no video then !!!!!!!!!!! :P
Sharma... que tío admirable :D
Colour me DAMNED IMPRESSED!
LOL I know right, I'm horrible at placing gear rather than clipping but I feel you.
@rey619yomama
It's single pitch, so you would just rappel down and drill as you go.
Also aid climbing is a possibility.
Its not anguish it's him trying a really hard move, so he shouts. Its natural to do that in that circumstance
Yes, I climb with La Sportiva too. I started with Boreal Ninja, then climbed with Five Ten anasazi but I like La Sportiva the best. :-)
I only see and hear pure anguish. Why is this fun?
5 minutes 30 seconds of no blinking!!!
beautiful
thanks :)
anyone else's palms sweating just watching this?
@budsAok420 It's true. Climbing has become so specialized that you cannot simply say one person is the best. You must break it down to the style of climbing to be more accurate. For sport climbing, it's safe to say Chris Sharma has established more difficult routes than anyone else; and continues to do so. Over a decade of pushing his limits. Tommy Caldwell for Trad climbing; just look at his free-climbing of El Cap's hardest multi-pitch routes. No easy way to pick bouldering's best.
Unfortunately no cameras were present for the final redpoint.
2nd, and freakin sweet!
@sarvelaj I think it's 5.15b. I read an article saying that it was. But apparently chris doesn't care too much about grading his first ascents? Also no one else has tried this route so nobody can compare with the grade.
@kostaspaschalis Which video? :o I dont believe there is a video of him actually doing it, don't think they was filming when he sender it :)
What a climb!!!! Jeeze!
Next on Ondra's on sight list....
Im wondering how the camera guy is getting pulled up as Chris climbs
Me too. I get stressed to know someone else is in it besides me.
i re-made his route dreamcatcher at my local gym and it was rated 13c
@kyatso1 Yeah but how can I watch this? exist a video about this problem? can you give me a link?
What climbing shoe's or rubber is the best for your opinion?
i thought they would sell this footage. It seems like everything in climbing has a price tag now days. Agree?
Is there a video anywhere of him completing the climb? I would love to see that.
Amazing
Sharma doing his Passat
It's fun because they did something. They are not just sitting on youtube commenting how something's not fun.
you know hes gonna send it when he stops screaming
i've always wondered how they got the safety bolts in in the first place. if its such a hard climb, how can someone manage to bolt something in while climbing?
Can anyone explain what Chris means when he says "boulder style"?
Chris pulls him up as he goes...
What is that woman saying over and over and over the entire time?
Venga venga venga - go go go
Whatever it is, its SO DAMN ANNOYING
You are annoying
wenger out
She's asking to be taken back to a kitchen so she can make sammiches for the men with big nut sacks.
that water noise is making me need a pee
hey im new to this incredible sport and recently purchased a pair of evolv shoes myself. what do you mean by your comment?
Is Chris Sharma still the best in the world or did anyone harder routes then him? Didnt watch climbing a long time now and didnt climb for 4years so if anyone could get me up to date :P
old footage, post ascent not old footage of the progress & linking it up to the last move
I have the same harness as sharma! yeah!
@13SuperJake
Yessir (or 5.15b)
@FTR01 Looks like he has done well in school.
very goood....climbing and climber
I agree...have never bought an Evolv shoe and honestly don't plan to...5.10 and La sportiva all the way!!
@223tim its a euro scale 10
awesome! is it a 9b?
@kostaspaschalis Yea :D Would love to see it ^^
Some people likes to challenge themselves. The feeling of accomplishment is FUN and it feels amazing. You must not have accomplished anything in your life?
Maybe not his best king line and maybe after 1000 repeats so slippy that it gets unclimbable but the intro moves with the possibility of speed up movements are sensational ! Venga , xy ? ... means for sure : " Go bunny, go ! " :)
Does anyone knows the name of the song at the beginning 0:37
he finally made a route that adam ondra cant repeat because of the bouldering style compression short hard moves
This aged poorly
does anyone know what this might be rated?
@kyatso1 Do you know where i can find the video ?
lol i like how he's climbing to the sound of piss at the end lol
I was literally thinking the same
I wonder if Nalle is allowed to try it now...
All I wanted to point out is that sometimes stuff doesn't look fun when you're watching it on youtube. Given that he doesn't find it fun makes me think that he hasn't tried rock climbing or is otherwise uncapable of climbing higher grades (which is fine, I can't either). I was also implying that maybe he should give it a try and then say whether it is fun or not (although, it just might not be the sport for him slash her).
does anyone know how mach 5.15b sharma climb?
wad shoes r he using?
Who is the other climber in this video?
el putissimo jefe, felicidades Chris!!
@82vanhorna 5.15b (9b)
sweet
I'm going to ask a stupid question and I am sorry for it but do you ever run into scorpions on your climbs? They are a big problem in Texas of the southern part of the United States.
Fortunately there are hardly an scorpions around most european regions. The common yellow scorpion can be found in some places if you keen on finding one - but no incident connected with climbers is known so far here.
m That's awesome thank you for the reply.
Venga venga, venga... venga.. venga..... vengaa
did he finish it?
Come on Chris!
I'm a big La Sportiva fan with their Vibram rubber, but I think Five Ten with their Stealth is a bit better.
how are they getting the footage