Increasing the engine power of a Kubota L2501 / D1703-M-DI-E4B - Part 2
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- čas přidán 20. 12. 2021
- This is part 2. Go here for part 1: • Increasing the engine ...
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NOTE: I'm still looking to buy someone an EGT probe and install it for them on their tractor and test on that same hill to get 'stock temps'. If you're in Northeast PA (I'm near Allentown), and willing to bring your machine to me, direct message me on Orange Tractor Talk. My username there is 'netmagi'.
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Investigating the differences between an older direct-injection D1703 and the current direct-injection D1703 that Kubota uses in the L2501. We'll adjust the injection timing (spill timing) with some advance, and adjust the fuel rack as well. The intention here is not to throw emissions regulations into the wind, but to instead explore the differences in these motors and consider the impact of the changes for this specific motor in this specific use case. The motor in the L2501 burns diesel inefficiently and produces a lot of soot due to the lower cylinder pressures and temps. It also consumes noticeably more fuel to produce the same amount of work due to the inefficient burning. By adjusting for higher efficiency, we get less soot, and burn less fuel (don't forget PRODUCING and transporting fuel creates emissions too), but we do get slightly more NOx. What is the sum of all these parts, and what is actually better for the environment in this use case for this specific motor? From my perspective, the jury is still out on the environmental impact, but the power and responsiveness gained is black and white. Comment below with your own thoughts & opinions, but please keep the discussion and debate civil.
I am not suggesting or advocating you make any of these changes to your own tractor. This video is for informational purposes only. Make your own decisions for your own equipment, and take responsibility for your own actions.
Special tools used in this video:
1/4" Drive Torque Wrench
amzn.to/3oDg5hy
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench
amzn.to/3ItS2tz
Magnetic LED work light (rechargeable, and sooooo nice)
amzn.to/3mkqNbp
Metric Flare Nut Wrenches
amzn.to/30bvzQH
Metric Stubby Wrench Set
amzn.to/3oCXmTm
Diesel Injection Line Socket Set
amzn.to/3yba271
EGT Thermocouple
amzn.to/3pGXjFr
Angle Drill for drilling the hole for the EGT probe:
amzn.to/3mplGXc
K-Type Probe Reader
amzn.to/3rPupWl
'Hybrid' dyno graph I show in the part 1 video
web2.netmagi.com/kubota/d1703_... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I just completed this is modification on my L2501. I took both shims out and used three bond 1184 gasket maker to seal the pump back down. Absolutely no issues doing that. I also backed the fuel screw it half a turn. Wow, what a difference! It's quite noticeable. I did install an egt gauge and the hottest it got was 1000. I might try backing it out another quarter turn but I'm super happy with it as is. Only a tiny bit of smoke under the heaviest of loads.
Me too. Ditto.
Excellent video with great information that nobody else has on youtube.
I’m glad you dug into the fueling / smoke issues on these tractors. The soot is bothersome but the smell is what drives me to distraction. I have a Kubota B7000, grey market tractor (40 yrs old, owned since 1997) and the difference in smoke and smell on the same fuel is night and day better than the 2016 L2501. I was needing to find info on this same issue and looked on OrangeTractorTalk previously, while not digging too deeply.
I will try to get an EGT probe for my unit to do a before and after as the smoke is too much to live with. I do not have a hill in my area but I do have a 60 inch cultivator to place an extended load on it. No plowing now as the ground is currently frozen and I can do it in May perhaps.
This "Great Fix" has made a mediocre tractor a" GREAT TRACTOR". This "How to" is sure to hit a Hundred Thousand views in no time. Masterfully demonstrated ingenious modifications.Thanks for the great Video Sir and happy safe tractoring.
Just did this mod today on my new L2501. Your video made it straight forward and it went very smoothly. THANK YOU for the research and effort making the video, I wouldn't have attempted it otherwise. I couldn't tell much difference after the injection timing change, but noticed a big difference when I increased the fueling. I agree that they both go hand-in-hand together though.
Note: Both of the shims under my injector pump were the same as yours, .010" and .008" using mics. After advancing the injection timing by removing the top shim (.010"), I used a small cutoff wheel and removed the cap, then turned the fueling screw out 1/2 a turn. That setting rolled a a little coal under heavy load. I'll turn it back in 1/4 turn tomorrow and see what happens.
Sincere thanks again.
Thx for sharing! Highly recommend getting temps with an EGT probe to correctly set fueling. You could probably 'chance it' and be fine, but knowing you're safe is worth it in my opinion.
@@netmagi, I ordered the probe and gage you recommended yesterday, should have it this coming week.
BTW, I was able to do the mod without taking the third injector loose. Yay! The intake manifold can be rotated to the side around that line, underneath the fuel tank. That saved a good bit of time.
@@wireedm1 awesome, I hadn't thought of that
@@wireedm1 testing worked best for me on a long steep hill (half mile in my case). I found setting rev's at ~2650 and feathering the HST pedal to keep it from bogging much yielded the highest temps. With EGT probe it updates fast enough to see what small changes in the pedal do. The longer the hill the better. Mine takes almost the full half mile to reach the highest temp. Kubota would probably consider that an 'overload' or 'stand-by' output condition, but I wanted to set fuel for that worst-case condition.
Thanks for documenting this. I think an LS2501 would work great on my property for road grading and bush hogging. I'd like to have one tuned by Gale Banks.
That 4 bolt exhaust flange looks prime for a small turbo off a gti or other diesel Volkswagen
I was recommended to watch this video and almost didn't due to length of video. There is so much information on here and I dont even own a tractor. We actually got a Fluke infared thermometer to troubleshoot a dehydration station and was way off compared to the RTD installed, we came up with the same idea as you mentioned. Well I am looking into either a Kubota or Kioti in the 25hp or 35/39hp range. I wanted to avoid all the extra emission equipment but would a stock 25hp tractor lack with a certain application or task. My main purpose is to use the brush hog and loader on flat sandy loam dirt in 40f to 115f temperature, yes Texas weather. Great video and sure packed with info.
The EGT probe is a good idea. It's what we use in aircraft where we manually control mixture for altitude.
HIGHLY recommend the EGT probe, especially given how cheap they are
Hello, good video, we just purchased a L2501. Just subscribed. We have a MX5100 and Bobcat T650. Take Care and be safe 🚜🪵👍🏼🇺🇸
Extremely useful information.
Glad you think so!
Great presentation!!!
Thank you!
It was almost as if I was watching myself fight that tamperproof cap and losing my baseline! I did the EXACT same thing. I also overcorrected and ended up with less power off the bat, then backed it out about a half turn at a time. Runs soooo much better now, no visible smoke. Been "turned up" for over a year and loving it. It does burn a little more fuel but that's no complaint.
lol! thx for chiming in. Watching my own footage again with a fresh mindset, I wonder if there's a dealer tool that you just hold VERY FIRMLY against that domed nut on the end that backs it off with just friction. Might be possible to just dremel a slot in that domed nut on the end and use a flathead as well. I hope the next person to fight one of these off can use the footage here and the shots of 'what's inside' to get theirs off easier. The biggest challenge for me was just not knowing what's under the cover to come up with a plan for defeating it. Which, I guess, is the purpose :)
@@netmagi Since watching your last video and seeing the cover was made of cast aluminum material I decided to try a different method. I ended up using a pair of large vice grips and squeezed them on the cover until the cover cracked on the casting line. It actually worked surprising well without damaging the nuts or set screw. Just had to use a screwdriver to finish spreading apart the cover at the cracked line and then pop it off. Figured I'd share this as it might save a future L2501 enthusiast some time and a possible headache.
@@JordyF. Great idea! I wish I was able to see how it was made before I had tried to remove it and lost my baseline. I'll pin this if I can.
Great job, thanks for sharing the info. baseline EGT with thermocouple would have been good, hindsight is always 20/20. Free H.P. Thanks.
I do have a Kubota L2501 with only 38 hours. I would volunteer my tractor but I live in Deltona, FL. I don't own a trailer to take my tractor to North Eastern, PA. I wouldn't mind doing it since I could visit my relatives in South Jersey.
I just added the exhaust gas probe to mine which is still completely stock. The hottest I’ve gotten it to read so far is 890. I was not able to work it as hard as I wanted. I ran the snowblower for about an hour in deep, heavy snow, dragging the rpm’s down but I know I work it harder in the heart of winter. The outside air temperature was 45 degrees. I’m going to run it a few weeks stock and let the outside temps go up to get a solid baseline before moving forward.
Thanks for sharing. This is really interesting, particularly because it's a bit higher than other folks have reported over on orangetractortalks. I'm convinced people are underestimating how much of a difference it makes running it at 'full load' for an extended period of time like I am on that long hill. I just measured that hill on google earth, and it's exactly half a mile, with a 335' elevation change. It flattens a bit in places, but the last 200' feet towards the top measure at a 14-17% grade. It takes nearly that full half a mile to get to peak temp for me. If you're hitting 890 bone stock, I bet you'd get close to 1050ish with just more RPM's and stock fuel/timing. I could probably add more fuel and still be 'safe', but I like having some headroom. I still want this machine to outlive me, which is why I bought Kubota in the first place.
@@netmagi Full load is hard to hit and keep at. I was shocked how fast the temps shoot up with adding a little load to it. I was running at about 2200 RPM. I drove it wide open in Medium for about a 1/2 mile with little change, steady between 660 and 670 degrees. I went up one small incline and it shot up to about 750 degrees then went right back down once it leveed out. I had to drag the RPM’s down close to stalling it to reach the 890’s snow blowing. It averaged in the high 600 to low 700 snow blowing without dragging the rpm’s down more than about 300. On a side note, the temperature gauge on the tractor never got up to the middle range, as if 3/8 from bottom the entire time.
Clockwise or counterclockwise to give more power, in or out?
@@akalpharaider7580 out
I’m on the fence with buying the 2501. I love the idea of not having DPF and electronics. I’m worried about power being an issue. Most of the work will be snow plow and driveway grading. Small amount of loader work. Would my power concerns be seen at the PTO more than anything, provided I don’t tune the tractor. The dealer said I could see some bogging while brush hogging on a grade, which I could end up doing. Any help or comments would be great.
Outstanding job. You are very thorough and it's appreciated.
My L2501 is so smokey. I'm glad I have a solution now. I just bought my tractor but doubt I'll wait until my warranty ends. My lungs mean more to me.
One question, when are you putting on a turbo charger? Lol. It's the logical next step. I can't wait to see that video.
Thanks again for doing your homework and sharing it with the community.
Thx for your reply. I don't think I'll be going turbo. It feels 'right' to me now power-wise for the frame size. Nothing wrong with going turbo though, would be a fun project.
Mine had 5.5 hours and I've noticed no enumerate except when it cranks
@First Choice Mechanical DPF equates to more problems. For weekend warriors who don't live on the equipment, it would be nice if the tractor exhaust clean was just set up to burn clean as it can without DPFs.
Great Job on your video.
Thank you!
Great video.
Thanks!
Boy, very helpful! Just got 2017 L2501D low hours 250 want do the same thing you have done down the road. And do the hydraulic pressure as well. Most likely will do the hydraulic first. There's video out there where guy put a nice Pyrometer on the side of the dashboard. Will do that and hydraulics first. I'm not close by but would like to communicate with with you if I could... Haven't watch your first video on the shims on the pump yet... Right most definitely need ballast in the rear as it will lift the back end off of the ground. Haven't looked closely yet to see if anything has been done to it before messing around. Like the gauge you used on pressure hydraulic.
Galen
My 2501 doesn't smoke,runs fine,no complaints on my end,has all the power I need.
glad to hear, I think this demonstrates just how much of a difference the allowable timing range makes from the factory when the target is as far retarded as the D1703 in this application
I just need a video for doing the kioti ck2510 tractor. if even possible.
Is this something that the dealer would know if we needed warranty work? Easily reversable back to stock? Also I have the gear drive instead of hst. Would it all be the same? I assume so but the gear drove shouldn't big as easily since they pull a little harder than hst.
As far as no smoke , it's just unburnt fuel, previously it was because of the timing , but with the higher fuel burn the fumes bothering you will likely be less. Don't be so worried about a touch of smoke
Thanks for explaining all this in detail. It helps.
I turned up the fuel some on my 18 year old BX2230 to where if it really bogs it will blow black smoke. Before if it bogged it would not really show any smoke all the way down to killing the engine so I now know the fuel screw was too far in limiting engine power. Now in normal mowing with a full load I adjusted it so it will have maybe just a barely visible hint of smoke at full load (you have to really look for it). I used it in 3 acres of heavy field grass cut rather short with the 60" mid mount mower at 95* and it went right through it with a lower temp shown on the engine temp gauge than before I adjusted the fuel. That was surprising to me. I can also use a bit lower rpm like I mow the yard around the house to get the engine where it is more efficient in fuel usage now too. I think I will take your advise and install a EGT sensor as I think it's a good idea overall to monitor the EGT. Maybe also consider making some changes (shims out) to the pump timing.
One hint on the fuel screw is to use vice-grips to smash the anti-tamper sleeve down onto the two nuts and while still clamped in the vice grips turn the screw to loosen it. Remove the vice grips and count the turns it takes to remove the screw. Then you can remove the anti-tamper sleeve on the work bench. Put the screw back in then do the adjusting.
Very informative. I'll be looking forward to doing this to my new L2501. Thanks for all the work you did to put this together so average folks like me can get some more performance out of this tractor. It all makes good sense. On a separate note I am in the market for a grapple and wondered if you had one or had any recommendations. I am leaning towards the Land Pride SGC1060 because its "performance matched" to the tractor but I'm a little reluctant to spend 3500 plus tax for it. Thanks again.
Check out "Everything Attachments" and you will find a variety of grapples, I have had one for several years and think it is indestructible, it has twin cylinders that grab each half of the grapple individually, it works great
Question is how much did it make. and was it worth the time and money ?
I plan on adding the EGT 1st. Is it worth adjusting the timing? Thanks,
Great information on obtaining more power, safely. Its greatly appreciated. Just curious what the infrared temp reader would show with the probe plugged into it? Also noticed your temp gauge did not climb but stayed at about 1/3 the range. (I hate gauges without numbers!) So it the cooling system looks like it is well able to handle all the changes. Do you remember the approx air temp the day of the test?
It was fall, so was likely in the 60's. It would show the same (or very close due to slight differences in PID handling) as the BK precision with the probe plugged in. It seems like the cooling system on the L2501 is pretty over-spec'd for the amt. of heat the engine produces stock. My guess is that is so that even if the radiator screen is 50% clogged , it's still able to keep the engine cool. Some of that over-spec is now probably gone with this mod, so if temps do start creeping up, you will probably need to clean the radiator screen sooner.
I'm following your video's on this and Im not quite clear which way and how much you adjusted the fuel adjustment stop. I did find where your adjustment was... thank you.
Unfortunately, it's not a set amount that will work for every tractor. Need to install EGT probe, then put a 'full load' on tractor and tune for the temp you're comfortable with.
My local Kubota dealer told me not to buy a L2501. He said i would not be happy with it. Its nice that some people are still honest. I ended up buying a kioti. Almost twice the lifting capacity and it seems to have a lot of power for a 25 horse. No smoke either lol. Kubota are great machines but they are under powered and over-rated.
While I usually try not to feed the trolls, this is straight up misinformation. The Kioti comparable loader, the KL4030 lifts 1,835lbs from the pins @ just under 60" lift height. The LA525 lifts 1,803 lbs at the same height, at the same PSI setting, or 1,490lbs at factory PSI. Even factory PSI vs. factory PSI, that's a difference of less than 25%, not 100% (or twice as much) like you claim. Kioti likes to lead with their 60" number (1,835lbs), while Kubota leads with their lift capacity at FULL HEIGHT, 95" (1,082lbs). Don't get tricked by the marketing folks at Kioti that are banking on folks making this same mistake when comparing. As for the smoke, the Daedong engine may very well be better tuned stock for a more efficient burn. Would need to compare EGT's across the rev range and measure airflow, etc.
I installed an egt on my old kubota tractor that I turbocharged. I’ll install an egt on my l2501 before I start modding this tractor for a baseline.
Looking at purchasing one of these myself so doing some research first, great efforts and great production in the video. There is a ton of good information on this. One thing I am curious about with everything else being the same, could you order a shim for the older tractor that would be the correct thickness and put it on the newer tractor?
Yep, you would just shim it per the engine workshop manual, but adding ~5 degrees of fuel timing retard
Going to do the same thing to mine and a turbo
Thanks for the video! I have the same tractor also. Seems like a pretty doable upgrade for such an increase in power and to improve bogging and smoke. How much was the unit that the sensor plugs into? All I have is a small temp gun like you were showing.
I picked up the one I'm using second hand years ago for less than $5 at an estate sale, but the one linked in the video description is less than $30.
I just installed my egt probe in the exhaust and did a test run in high gear down my street. I don’t have any large hills but the one I did run up got the temps around 1025 for a very short time then dropped back to around 950. This is still a stock 2501. I haven’t turned the screw in or removed shims yet. Planning on not doing changes till I see what it does with a load from my tiller and other attachments. Great video on the upgrade. I’ve watched it several times now lol
What happens if you accidentally unscrew the fuel screw all the way out? Can you easily screw it back in (meaning it is not holding back a spring, etc) and go through the process that you did with smoke test.
Have you considered a very small turbo?
I wonder how much temperature difference there is if you probe after muffler in outlet. Also what temp would you have stopped the test at?
Is this process similer for the kioti ck2610 or is it just the fuel screw adjustment on those models?
Thank you for doing this research! I've loved my trusty little 2501 since I got it new in 2017. Think its gonna get a little more power now... I'm curious how much difference there is in the spec range for the timing. I've always felt like mine had more than 25 hp, based on the work it can do. I'll probably check to see where mine is set at factory before I adjust it. I've never had the smoke issues a lot complain about. A little soot but that's about it. Guessing mine might be set on the high side of the spec.
In any case thanks! Very well done research!
Spec range is 3.25 ° to 4.75 ° B.T.D.C, so it's probably a few HP
@@netmagi well I did it. I had a .20 and .25 shim just like you did. I pulled both for a 4.5° advance. Turned the fuel up about 1 turn. Unbelievable difference in how it performs! I'm curious if you've been able to find any solid data on what our max EGTs should be. So far I haven't seen it top 1200, and I feel comfortable with that. But I darned sure don't want to melt something down either. Thanks again for your research!
@@bearswartz2907 From what I read 1200 is ok but probably not best to run at for long periods if you want the 10k hours these engines will often run to. I would consider ~1100 to be safe for running all day, every day. I might pull mine again when I get a mill and shave .20 off and leave the .20 in there.
Can’t wait till my warranty expires (might not wait that long) drives me nuts that even going up a small hill the engine bogs a bit even in middle range on HST. In high range it bogs horribly on hills.
Much better on hills now, even with the higher RPM's (which result in higher speed).
Today I performed the pump shim mod on my L2501. My pump had the one hole shim and the no-hole shim. The No hole shim is .30 mm and removing it reaches your stated goal that you wanted. I report this to verify that you are absolutely correct that different L2501 engines CAN have a different assortment of shims from the factory.
I was thrilled that mine has the .30 mm shim. Which, of course, I have now eliminated.
I have not test run mine yet. I had the #3 injector go bad and a replacement is due to arrive tomorrow.
By the way, unless any of you know a better way than my dealer and I did to replace that #3 injector (closest to the firewall) you will experience a NIGHTMARE!
I am looking forward to testing my tractor with the pump mod. I also have the fuel control shaft uncovered and ready to adjust.
I am installing an EGT gauge also.
ALRIGHT, ALRIGHT, ALRIGHT!
ok now lets forget bout all the techie stuff... im talk'n pink slips. i thank you for your time and expertise, but lets see what this bad boy will do... where the rubber meets the dirt! can you please make one more vid on actual performance... FEL work, box blade, bush hogging, etc.
if you're down round NW Georgia come on by and we'll test mine! noticed you ride too..... im a ole MX racer from the 70's and 80's... lets chew the fat and drank a cold one!
sub'd x2 thumbs up!
I'll have a vid up of running my 64" snowblower as soon as we get some real snow. That loads it real nice.
Thinking more about this video and process I do seriously wonder if the L2501 is above the 25 horsepower anyway. The 25hp is at 2200 RPM’s but mine goes to about 2400 rpm’s and feels like it has more power pulling uphill at that rpm vs the 2200
it probably does peak just over 25hp at that rpm, but if you look at the dyno sheet comparison I linked in video description, you'll see it stops rising due to the fuel getting injected too late at stock setting for higher RPM's
Would it work on an L2502DT
Hey, got a kubota z402 that is 400cc and 5hp, cant be right? loosing a lot of power up hills, what can be done?😊
Agree with others egt probe would be a good idea. Probably not a huge deal UNTIL you alter it .
How will the increased torque affect the 540 PTO engine speed to run a rotary cutter? Is it still the same?
Covered @ 46:53 czcams.com/video/JAosd5F9ru8/video.html
Thank you for some very informative videos, I am now subscribed. I am curious if you have ever done a " Here are the top 10 mods to do to your L2501" kind of video? I have a whopping 5 hours on my tractor but I assume it is never too early to do things like RPM raising, Hydraulic pressure raise, creeping while standing etc? I also want to attempt these engine power mods, and I am hoping as a typical shade tree mechanic I can pull it off.
That's a great idea! Maybe I'll do this for my next video.. All of the things you mentioned are things I've done too.
How bad do these smoke? I haven't seen any visual smoke out of my 2501 other than a brief puff at startup.
I think it varies due to the timing being retarded on some more than others out of the factory, given the limitations of the available shims and some being at the very bottom end of the acceptable range, and others at the top.
Same here with 5.6 hours
Do you have to take the shims out at all if you adjust the fuel setting?
yes, check out my part 1 video. I explain why and what these changes do. czcams.com/video/mTyEqxBHQi0/video.html
in my Airplane we lean the engine do run a 1400 EGT. Now that is a air cooled gas engine but that is what the manufacture said to run it. I do not see why my 2501 would not run with the same EGT.
Theres nothing wrong with 1100-1200 sustained egts
Have you ever had anyone take you up on the offer of the temp sensor stock? I’m curious what the temp is?
had a bite, but hasn't followed through yet
I live in NNJ not to far from
That far from your area of the offer still stands.
@@timothymichlik1818 will let you know if they don't follow through
Is your idle higher now?
I haven't noticed any difference in the idle
So you don’t adjust the actual throttle adjustment correct? Just pump timing and fuel adjustment will increase the RPMs?
RPM limit was increased b4 I did this work.
@@netmagi copy that. I’m going to install in EGT temp and then run my Bushhog which puts the most load on the engine. I will establish a good baseline
Just out of curiosity, how much lower are the temps at the tail pipe vs the manifold? Looks like you have the ability to measure this simultaneously?
a few hundred degrees. but the biggest issue is the lag in change. At the manifold you see it near instantly. At the end of the pipe, it takes MINUTES to saturate. By then, you're pistons might be liquid :)
@@netmagi thanks. One of the most comprehensive well made videos on CZcams. Both part 1 and 2. Nice job.
@@hardesty1790 thanks!
Kubota puts the same engine in their 8,000 pound kx033 excavator. Im seriously considering this machine for purchase over their 10,000 pound flagship kx040 with the 40hp d1803 because of the exhaust system simplification. From your presentation I can guess that the kx033 would have more power when moving itself up a grade or when using the dozer blade to push earth. But the bucket and boom performance would be unchanged. Would you agree..? or have any insight? Extrapolated thoughts.?
….The amount of knowledge you have acquired on this topic is very impressive and helpful, it’s as if you are a diesel mechanic for kubota. You can’t just look this stuff up anywhere except your channel. Thank you! ….
Also on a reliability/ durability point, do you think that the engine would be more reliable/durable due to less soot deposits or slightly less longevity due to increased engine temps .? Or is it a wash?
Did you turn up your throttle stop ?
yes, I did this previously. A lot of people ask about it. I may do a vid on this process as well
@@netmagi, yes! Look forward to seeing that vid!
Hello very nice! I would be curious to see the difference in your lift capacity. I think the increase in HP would reflect in an increase in your lift capacity, especially because you increased the pressure to 2590. Thoughts?
The additional horsepower will not translate to any additional lift capacity. The engine at stock settings already produces more than enough power to maintain the RPM on the hyd. pump at the relief pressure (even with the pressure raised)
What state are u located I would pay u to do the same to mine if your close enough
Appreciate your interest, but I wouldn't be able to do this for anyone.
Something to think about on EGTS; think of a oxy-acetylene torch, if you wave the flame over an aluminum block, it won't melt but if you hold it over the block, it will.
Same thing for our engines, high EGT's for a brief period of time isn't a big deal BUT sustained high EGT's is where we melt pistons. For most diesel piston alloys, you can sustain 1200 degrees without melting the pistons. But this also depends on where you get the temp readings. The best place is right at the collector flange of the manifold like he did here.
Melting point of aluminum is 1220 F at sea level (standard pressure) inside the combustion chamber, during the hottest point, you have 11.2x the pressure which puts the melting point at around 2000 F. I wouldn't start to worry about EGT until it reaches 1500 F for more than 2 or 3 minutes. Science wins again.
Could you just adjust the screw and not touch the pump and get the same results? Did you use an angle drill for the sensor? Didn't look like enough space for a regular drill.
My question too!
No. The two work in tandem. Doing either alone will get you SOME power, but I would guess less than half of the gain if done together. I would also think if you only adjusted the fuel at stock timing it would be even smokier. Like wear-a-mask smoky. The engine burns the fuel too 'cool' at stock timing, especially at lower RPM's under minimal load.
Had to use an angle drill. I'm on team Bosch, so I used this one: amzn.to/3mplGXc
@@netmagi and a follow up question- do these changes affect loader lifting capacity?
no, but I have a video out on that as well. Check out: czcams.com/video/b_mvKc9g1q8/video.html
Have you looked at a water/methanol injection setup to help lower EGTs? I wonder if you couldn't also then turn up the fuel with your intake density being higher...
I have not. Probably worth looking into if you're building one of these motors for pulling or some other competition, but (in my opinion) would add to much complexity in a tractor application where you just want to know you can count on it to work when you need it
@@netmagi When my l2501 comes in I might give that a shot. Just run a simple 12v pump to a jug of windshield wiper fluid and see how it lowers the EGT. The other advantage would be helping decrease the risk of predetonation especially in our case of advancing the timing.
I really found the video I'm thinking about trying to do that to my Branson tractor it's a 55 horse but it's a dog
When you are bored and your brain will simply not shutdown.....
Polish the gears next?
LMAO
First!!!!
Thanks for all the WORK AND RD FOR THE FUEL MOD . I have yet to see a one chime in with a base line for EGTs . If nobody else chimes in with base line temps I will try to complete in the coming months . I did not check on your linked info. Do you have all the shop repair manual if included .
hey bud i keep trying to message you thru youtube but it doesnt let me. im in norristown pa area and have alot of experience tuning mechanical deisels and would like to link up and we can share knowledge and experience as i just bought a brand new tractor with this motor and actually will eventually ad a turbo to it. any ideas how we can link up ? email or whatever