removing the chuck in a delta drill press
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2023
- here Im explaining how to remove and reinstall the drill chuck on a drill press. wether you chuck is broken or your upgrading to a keyless chuck. this is the way to do it. thanks for watching.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects czcams.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
That was very helpful.
Thank you very much 😊
For retention of the chuck key in a convenient place, I use a magnet on the head of the press. The key will stay in place when drilling and easy to remove for bit changes. I use the key and replace it as soon as i tighten the bit . Has worked like a charm for me. Keeps it secure and out of the way.
It’s useful to be able to remove a chuck when the jaws are worn. The taper is standard so any make of 1/2”(13mm) chuck should fit. A wedge shaped hardwood should be enough to release it, with a sharp blow from hammer. A taper only fits in one place.
great video. quick tip for the key... you can use a shoe lace to tie it to the body of the drill with enough length to be used on the chuck, or you can attach a small piece of tube to the side of the drill and drop it there every time it is not in use.
Those are some great ideas. Thanks!
Thank you, great video, very helpful.
Outstanding! Thank you for the demonstration. I have to take my chuck off to clean and lube it (a bit rusty from neglect). This solves the mystery!!😮
Happy to help.
thank you !
Absolutely! Glad it helped.
The chuck mates to the shaft known as a Morris Taper/ or a metric version.
Good information.
I think the "J33" on the chuck means that it is a Jacobs 33 taper as opposed to a Morse taper.
Thanks man...
Subbed
Thank you
Thanx for the vid. I noticed when you hammered the chuck, the axel moved a bit up. Did you manage to whack the bearing further in or was the play already there? I just inserted a new lockspring and a washer to remove the play I had in my second hand drill press.
That's a good question. I'm not sure exactly id havet have a closer look.the washer you mentioned sounds like the ticket!
@@anyandalldiy6704 I tested, and it does the job nicely (for now). I am still not sure whether the bearings are too small (thin) or pushed too far in when trying to loosen the chuck. (which should not be allowed in my universe)
Do you know how to replace the shaft on that Delta drill press
I have a value craft drill press RT1/2-20=13L , I'm trying to find the chuck that can replace mine, can't seem to find the same one, any help in finding one that will fit?
A nut and bolt work great
Nice video. How about a video on replacing the switch on that Delta drill press?
The main power switch,correct?
Yes, @@anyandalldiy6704
@@anyandalldiy6704 The housing and switch.
Hi buddy thank you for that video
I have a drill press where the chuck slips on the shaft what can i do any advice I'll appreciate it I'm from South Africa
If it's a pressure fit like the one described in this video, I would recommend roughing the shaft up with some coarse sand paper to give it a little more bite. But don't sand it so much that you make it smaller I'm diameter. And then set the chuck in place with some hard hammer blows using wood like in the video. If you're certain it's the chuck slipping on the shaft and not the belt slipping (which may make it appear that it's the chuck) if it's the belt, tighten the belt a little bit with the tensioner. Hope that helps.
Thanks buddy it's definitely the chuck slipping on the shaft and it fell of the shaft when i held it while machine was rotating would you suggest i replace chuck thank you for all your help
Clean the shaft and the inside of the chuck. Apply loctite. Install. Remember if you ever need to remove it, that you will have to heat it up to disengage the loctite.
If there’s no fork like yours what’s the next alternative?
A nice solid oak wedge. If you can cut it in he shape of a fork like the tool I showed, that would work. It doesn't take too much force. Hit it with some penetrating oil ahead of time. You might be able to get away with using two hammers. Putting the claw end of one hammer in between. The chuck and drill, and lightly tapping it with the other hammer or mallet. Making sure to tap it the move it to a new spot and tap it, then move until it falls off. That way your not just beating on it in the same spot causing it to bind. Hope that helps.
@@anyandalldiy6704 just got a new WEN drill press. Had the loose chuck and tapped it in but have to tighten it with the key every time.
So why remove the chuck from the arbor unless replacing the chuck?
All your doing is knocking the chuck out of alignment. Use a wedge to take the arbor out of the spindle to use Morse tapered bits is all you should regularly do.
Exactly. I made the video as I was requested to do so. Otherwise I had no need to remove the chuck.
Reasons to remove the chuck if not for replacement:
1. Clean and lubricate the chuck internals
2. Re-dress the chuck jaws with a file
3. Installing a jaw rebuild kit
4. Measured run out of the chuck may require re-seating of the chuck on the arbor
The problem with a keyless chuck on a drill press, is that the motor doesn't reverse to make loosening the chuck easy.
Ah, that makes perfect sense. As most hand drills either lock when not rotating under power, or like you said, they reverse. Excellent point.
It's a Morse taper (MT2) ((B16))
At time index 3:55, the side of the chuck shows J33 for the taper. That would be a Jacobs taper. J33 tapers from 0.6240" large end to 0.5605" small end. A Morse No. 2 tapers from 0.7000" large end to 0.5720" small end.
How about a little pride and some polish work on your tool.
That drill press looks like Tom Hanks in Castaway.
Pride is not something I lack, and that may be to a deficit. We may have different definitions of the word but that does not mean what you think it does. A rusty tool is simply that. Nothing more. Thank you for your comment.
I took your advice. And cleaned it all up. Actually made a video of it. Will be posting sometime soon. Hank you for the inspirational boost. I actually cleaned my entire shop area hay day too. 😂
At least he cared enough to take time to help some of us out with a well done and
easy to understand video. I could care less about what the environment looks like.