I love watching this stuff. You have a fan from Fremantle Western Australia. I am currently rebuilding my Amiga 500 and I get my parts from the Amiga store. They have been great, even from the other side of the world.
@Mr Guru wow!! Yes, I will have a look. I am currently documenting the repair I have done and will upload a video when done. It involves some drama and a six month jump cut due to a certain 'pandemic'.
A few recommendations for others modding plastic pieces. Get a good file set and just slowly file your openings. That, or mill it if you have one. On holes, always drill with the part clamped rigidly. Also, build a hole guide out of wood to get accurate placements and straight holes. A hole guide can just be two pieces of wood glued or nailed together in an L shape with the desired hole pattern drilled into it refrenced off the inner edge of the opposite leg that will be used as your stop/edge guide.
This is a great project. I plan to mod my external non functional Amiga floppy to this Gotek drive. The Gotek drive I have on "stock", the other parts are being ordered. Thanx Jan for this great video. Jürgen 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@JanBeta Thanx Jan for the hint but I know it from my Commodore history. Today, 1. Sept. in the evening, this amazing floppy is working fine. The build took me one day and I am absolutely impressed about the function and features. I am a big fan of your YT videos, please keep them running. 👍👍👍
The STM32 Cube Programmer is much better software from ST. You can also flash the STM32 in DFU mode with a usb A-A cable instead of serial (you can easily short the BOOT pins with tweezers so no soldering required).
Can you give a bit more details? I want to mod my Gotek drive, it's stock right now, and if I can flash it without buying the serial adapter that'd be great. I didn't find anything about using a USB A-A cable to flash it in the tutorial Jan linked and I am not sure what to search for. I want to make sure I'm not doing it wrong by mistake. Thank you.
Not bad. I did a similar upgrade a few years back. A few tips though. You can solder to the pin header on the underside of the board for the connection that need to come out on the top and it's much cleaner. I also installed the speaker mod that you said you didn't like. However what I did was to get a flat piezo and tsoldered it to the under side of the pin header and mounted it flat against the pcb with tape. It doesn't make much of a buzz sound but it makes more a click sound which sounds pretty good actually.
Oh, great idea to solder the headers on the bottom side. I might add a piezo at some point but as I said I don't really like the emulated sounds. There is a speaker in the other Gotek I show in the video.
I would like to have a firmware, that is capable of emulating all 4 drives (df0, df1, df2, df3) for Amiga with just one Gotek drive. I think HxC was able to do it with their own hardware. The Amiga selects the different drives by pulling SEL0 and SEL1 high or low accordingly. The firmware would just have to check SEL0 and SEL1 to check which drive is being accessed and remember the states of the drives (which ADF image is mounted, head position, etc.). It is definitly possible!
The part of the C64 VIC-II² mod that gave me the most trouble was cutting the pin headers apart without cracking them open more than necessary. You make it look easy. lol
Amazing! I just found your channel while researching repairs to my CPC 6128. I have one of these Gotek drives and nearly bought a new one for these extra features, I will be flashing and drilling, much more fun.
i managed to upgrade my own gotek after watching this tutorial.. the HXC firmware is probably the best update for my amiga since the aca 500+...and in my opinion a must have compared to the crappy firmware my gotek got shipped with =)
Everyone, take note: there's an easier way to do the flashing without using a TTL. Simply buy (or make) a USB-A to USB-A cable (all pins attached), and plug one end into front of Gotek, the other into PC's USB port. (No need to apply power to Gotek during flashing.) However, you still must add the jumpers as Jan did (full details on FF website).
Also, as you're probably only going to be doing this flashing once, it's sort of overkill to solder in pin headers. (Esp if you're not good at soldering...) All you need to do is poke short pieces of straightened out paperclip through the two relevant holes of pins to be jumpered. They are through-plated so you should get a connection easily. Make sure the wires don't touch each other or any other parts of the PCB. Also remember to remove them after flashing is succesful.
*Jan Beta:* I have seen photographs of an SD floppy drive emulator that not only has the face plate of a 3.5 inch drive, but also the disk slot. The disk slot is not meant for regular floppies. Instead, you put your SD card in a caddy that looks just like a 3.5 inch disk, and insert it that way. I really like this idea, and hope that whomever made it, makes a 5.25 inch version. I was wondering if you've seen these types, and what do you think? I don't know the status of the SD floppy caddy drive, but I hope it emulates disk access sounds.
And when you're done using the Serial-2-USB adapter to program your GoTek, you can use it to connect your Commodore 8 bit computer (with a user port) to a Raspberry Pi. This gives you more options than your regular WiFi modem, because not only can you access a BBS (by running tcpser on the RasPi which emulates an old dial-up modem), but you can also access RSS feeds, Twitter, etc. by writing some Python code that takes data from the internet and shuffles it over to the Commodore.
Useful mods! Personally I couldn't live without a piezo-speaker for step-sound indication. It's sometimes quite interesting "how" things are loaded. On my STs e.g. some disks (mostly demos) are loaded one side after the other, instead of double-sided. You hear that in the speed of the clicks. The LEDs I don't need at all, because on a side-mounted Gotek, like in the Atari STF or Amiga 500, they are quite useless. Here my Goteks in my 1040STF flic.kr/p/2dFroth and my 1040STE flic.kr/p/2iz3Rii ,the 3D-printed frame with buzzer-holder flic.kr/p/2iu1sYi I modified the rotaray-encoder PCB with straight pins heading to the back. It's just a cleaner cable installation. 😀
Thanks for sharing! Looks great. I want to put this one into my Amiga 2000 at some point so I'm going to go with a 3d printed bracket. Might add a little speaker, too, but as I said I find the emulated sounds rather annoying. ;)
@@JanBeta yes, they're absolutly not realistic, but it "replays" the head-position quite good. Too bad there won't be the possibility to replay sampled drive-sounds in the Gotek. The ST-emulator SainT does this very authentic, as you can "hear" it in one of my sampledemos recorded with SainT: czcams.com/video/1fR-BbWsWm0/video.html I absolutly hear no difference when I load the demo from physical disk on my SF314 drive!
Yeah but does the piezo speaker sound anything like the ST's aggressive disc accessing noises? The whole "ARRRRRRRRRR ARRRRRRR ARRRRR click click ARRRR ARRRR tick tick tick tick ARRRRRR ARRRR click click"? :) I miss that from my 1040STf. I don't remember the Falcon030's 1.44MB drive sounding like that.
@TPau65, that screen mount for the Gotek on your AtariST is great! I'm going to "cook" a screen mount similar to that one for my Amiga 500, once I flash my Gotek.
@@TheJeremyHolloway a decent speaker is a must of course. I think even the speaker of the Falcon isn't enough for a decent sound-playback of these Atari-drives! 😁 Yes, Falcon's standard PC-drive sounds boring by comparison. ^^
my first attempt at something like this was also quite messy. One day out shopping at Aldi I found a little set of precision files and I have found that using those for small jobs like this gets good results!
@@CP200S Here you go: www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-7-piece-needle-file-set/p/800452361477800 The problem is, like most Aldi products, they aren't around for long. I'm sure you could get something similar from another brand, they're usually copying Stanley or Bosch or whoever...
I’m a musician - piano player and a proud owner of a vintage musical Keyboard Korg IS40 Gotek really help me bring it to modern times by replacing to old and unreliable floppy disk to USB… As a professional musician special in important moments as New Year eve and other great party that I’ve to play I normally use my own arrangement in all of music, I keep them in the USB pen in several floppies, the problem is that during all performance I need change music according the reaction of the people, and sometime well a lot of times those music are in different floppy and to move down the selection is at the moment impossible… I can only move up the selection but to move down our back to the 000 floppy I need to turn off the keyboard… and that takes a huge amount of time… I wonder if there’s anything that we can do… in programming our making some kind of connection to allow some kind of mod to move it up and down the selection of the floppy in a quick and efficient way… If that alteration were possible that would change the game forever… any musician that use any vintage musical Keyboard in a daily base is desperately churning for this feature… Time between musics in a stage is the most hated thing when people are having fun… Best regards from Funchal - Madeira - Portugal…
Hi Jan Beta, I have seen your channel for over a year and you do a good job, I also made a CZcams channel that is RetroSave, but it is in Portuguese which is my language, I also made a video this week about on make a mod on gotek, but I added an acrylic to protect the oled displays and made the sound mod more, which was very good. if you want to see, feel free, but it's in portuguese i don't know if youtube translates it, keep up the good work.
@@JanBeta u need a program called Dfuse demo (as i recall) free download from STM homepage. then u need to bridge the 2x2 pionts - first the 3v and Boot .. second the TX and 5v install software and connect to pc trough a USB A - USB A cable run the software (install drivers if it doesnt do it by it self) in the flashfloppy firmware zip is a file called .DFU who u need to upload via the program.. afterwords remove the bridges on points.. and your done :) dont know i that makes sense.. but feel free to ask :)
lolz "I'm using windows 10 my favorite operating system", in my head I said 'this is a lie Jan' then you came clean and admitted it is not. love this channel, great content.
I did the the same mods,too. btw you can flash the Firmware with a USB -A to USB-A Cable. Later i switched to a Amiga Pi Drive it Supports up to 4 Floppy Drives
As I said in the video, I don’t like the buzzer noises much. If you want to add a buzzer/speaker, it’s literally just a matter of connecting it to two pins on the Gotek header. ;)
On some unmodded goteks, they left out two of the six front pin headers where you would connect two pins of the rotary encoder, so you have to solder these headers in yourself. Nice job, as you mentioned, the rotary switch on top of the gotek usually is not very useful. Next step wouks be to 3d print the montage plate to fit the gotek into your A500 fitting the oled in a nicevlittle case on top by fitting the four cables through the vents so you do not have to damage your case vy drilling holes or something....
Oh, good to know the headers are missing on some Goteks. I was suspecting something like that, there seem to be differently equipped models. I'm planning to put this in a 3d printed bracket in my A2000, as I said in the video. So my "case mods" were not very sophisticated. ;)
Hey, good practice. I am very interested in modding this for an Amiga 2000. My tryouts were not so successful. Best results with a 3d-printer i think but i have not the hardware for that job.
Looking for a demonstration on how to clone a disk image using the flashfloppy menu system. It's not quite so clear to me that I'm not overwriting existing images.
Hi, it will be better to Flash Your personal upgrade Gotek with the Other HXC firmware... to compare it with FlashFloppy firmware... Because, HXC firmware is the native development to use IPF files (From SPS) converted into HFEV3 format to play game like originals games without any cracks...for myself the best game sensation.🕹
i will try try to program some interesting comments from viewers about using usb aa cable to flash unit , your idea was very cheap to make really good jan , i didnt think u could flash these gotek drives like this .. good easy to upgrade and keep units for long time . dupoint dupont correct spelling, see ya jan
Hello. Great video, pretty much explanatory, thank you! I've got a question though, before attaching an OLED (as well as a buzzer for track sound). Do I need to update the GOTEK's firmware to a certain version and above in order for the OLED (and buzzer please) to work? Currently I'm using a GOTEK with v105a firmware (never upgraded it as it works fine) inside an Amiga 600. Thank you.
Hi Jan, I have a PCB with a 4Pin Header for 7Seg Display, the other 2Pins are not present. Have You information to connect the rotary encoder? to which pin do I have to solder the encoder? Thank You
After soldering the pins, jumpering the pins and connecting the ttl programmer, I have no display? When all the mod wires are removed, the display works aagain. Are the 9 pins I soldered related to the gotek display in any way? Thanks, Russell.
I gave it a thumbs up because I didn't know you could do that. But, I have some criticisms. Mainly just too mush talking. Explain what you are doing while you are doing it. People can see on the screen what wires are going where as shown by the writing on the circuit board and the illustrations in the instruction guide.
I think with modern versions of Flash Floppy you don't even need to trim the case for the OLED and it clips itself to the visible window - hard to tell on yours though because of the angle.
I think there are OLED displays that fit exactly. The one I bought is significantly wider than the original so I had to modify the case quite a bit (also cut the little ridges where the original 7-segment display clipped in).
We're are trying to use a Miditemp with a Gotek USB Floppy Disk Emulator. Now we have two problems: 1) We can't connect the Gotek in the proper way. We tried all possible solutions and variations with jumpers, flatcable or config files. Miditemp doesn't recognize the Gotek. 2) Even if the Gotek displays the correct number of images of floppy disks on the 4GB USB stick, Miditemp doesn't see the midi files in those images. Not sure what software (Windows 10) to us for making images and putting files in those images. Can anyone help us with (step by step) instructions, software, links or whatever? Thanks.
Ich habe heute ein OLED display im ein ggotek-amiga eingebaut. Es war alles OK, aber als ich die Folie vom OLED abgemacht habe, ging der diplay nicht mehr. ES ist wohl kaputt. Wie weis ich ob es kaputt ist? How do I know if the OLED-display is damaged?
hi, I just installed a gotek emulator to my oldest roland keyboard , but after all steps I get only error 34 , if somenone get the same problem, please let me know , thank you
Nice job! Do you know if we can flash a really old Gotek emulator, in order to make it use normal USB sticks? I had to format a stick as a super floppy disk, or something and it only takes one floppy per stick... It doesn' t even have a display of any kind, nor any buttons. I want to put just the buttons and use an image file, without having to format the stick, leaving it in a usual, FAT32 format. Or maybe add the buttons and even a 3-digit display, if I find one.
I am not able to download the STM flasher software. On the website I enter my personal datas, than I get an email for the download link. The download link transfers me to the STM website. On this site I am searching for the flash program. When I click to the link I have to register again and so far. What I made wrong? Could someone help please :) Jürgen
Hi Jan. Greetings from Athens, Greece. Your amazon german links don't work. So could you please direct me to a european link for the correct size of rotary encoder for front panel instalation (very important since I will use it on my synth). Thanks
Hallo Jan, ich habe mir den Emulator gekauft. Habe aber immer die Fehlermeldung Error 31. Ich möchte den Emulator an einem Retro-Pc nutzen. Magst Du mir bitte helfen, ich bin des Englischen leider nicht so mächtig, da ich schon ein etwas älteres Semester bin.
Für IBM-Kompatible sollte ein Gotek so ziemlich Plug & Play funktionieren, auch mit der "stock" Firmware. Wenn du die Flashfloppy Firmware benutzen möchtest, geht natürlich auch das (und dann kannst du auch ein externes Display haben etc). Habe ich selbst aber am PC noch nicht ausprobiert.
Do you have to use specific Flashfloppy firmwares to match specific machines? I didn't see it mentioned on the Github page, so I guess one doesn't have to bother with it - but just in case. I use an Amiga 500 with stock Gotek, and I really, really want the OLED upgrade, hehe.
@@JanBeta Thanks for replying! I went ahead and just flashed it yesterday - works great! Having the OLED makes it 10x easier to use. Thanks for the tutorial!
If you have a 5.25" bay and want a really good sized OLED instead of those tiny 0.96" things, check out my printable case at www.thingiverse.com/thing:3820252 I designed this for my Emulator II which has the FDD on far left, so I specifically wanted a design where I could still see the display while twiddling the rotary encoder without my hand blocking the view.
If people wanted to go overboard, add in a basic web server and WiFi and then log in from a phone, tablet, computer to select your disk image ;) (Or Bluetooth and a custom app)
Hello Jan, I like your video's a lot. When watching this one I got puzzled by what you do in 9:59. You say: 'and I connected the brown to Tx and the orange to Rx, so we have to connect it the other way round here, so this one (holding orange) should be Rx and this one (holding brown) should be Tx.' If you connect the jumpers as you said, you're not reversing them. I was expecting the communication to fail yet it worked fine. Waht's happening here?
Oh, might just be a mistake on my end. Maybe I misspoke there. You have to connect TX to RX and RX to TX obviously for the connection to work. So that must be what I did. Sorry if that was confusing.
The stick I’m using in the video is 16GB and I’ve also successfully used a 32GB one. I don’t know if there’s a limit at all with the FlashFloppy firmware. Maybe there’s a 4GB limit with an older version but I didn’t run into any issues.
Hi i really love your work and I have this game boy advance sp ags001 and it's missing som components .I was wandering if you can help me find out what are these. The components are C33 C34 Q4 F1 Thanks a lot.
I use the usb-a male to usb-a male cable because i had one lying around and didn't have a serial adapter to program flashfloppy firmware on the gotek and i need to add the led display to mine as well, i dont really care about drive noises at all.
If I do this to my Gotek, will I still be able to treat the USB stick as a 1000 floppies? Or more? :) If so, can I easily mount/access and read/write to those virtual floppies (1.4mb) on Mac OS?
Necro but, yes, the original functionality is all preserved, just extended - with far more disk image formats for example. If you can mount your images on your Mac currently you would still be able to do so afterwards
They arent Amiga specific, they emulate the standard "Shugart" floppy interface so it should be entirely possible to use one. I know they have been successfully used in other old synths, so unless Yamaha did something really wierd I dont see why it wouldnt work
Peter Mulholland thanks Peter, I know when we looked they had swapped some of the pins around on the interface, I tried the Amiga drive out of my external drive but it didn’t work and now the drive won’t read disks from my Amiga either.
Lol yes thanks, it was a humorous dig from a patron. FYI the usb/ttl converter doesn't technically "handle the voltages levels automatically" it will just spit out whatever voltage it was built for (5/3.3/1.8v typically) and it is still up to the user to work out if those levels are compatible with the target hardware. The STM32F105 is nice like that with most pins being 5v tolerant indeed making it almost goose proof!
I'm presuming the reason you're using the USB serial adapter is because your MSWin or Linux machines don't have regular DB9 ports. Mine still does, so is that usable instead?
Yes, my current PC doesn't have a serial port anymore. You should be able to use any serial connection. Just select the appropriate port in the software. :)
This is awesome, Jan. One of the issues I have is that my gotek is installed in my A2000 but the slot for it is just a little too big. It mounts OK but doesn't look very nice. Do you know of a fix for this?
I wish they would make these with an in-system menu program so I don't have to print out a sheet of numbers or remember which number is which image... That oled screen is too small
That would be difficult to implement, as that type of functionality is outside of the spec of the original floppy interface. It's possible, but they would have to code software for every single platform (Amiga, Amstrad, DOS, Windows, etc) that the Gotek is used on.
This is a HxC Floppy emulator option since a decade : github.com/jfdelnero/HXCFE_file_selector The HxC firmware for gotek also support these file selectors : hxc2001.com/store/ And the HxC firmware for gotek also has the OSD output support to make these OLED screen useless :) (only 2 wires and a resistor needed :) ) : czcams.com/video/Kl1FX8N-ILo/video.html
Same here, I use both. I still prefer the real thing but the Goteks are a very nice alternative if you don't have a working disk drive or just want to quickly test a disk image.
Oh, they are not really put in there randomly. I'm using the fades to indicate that some time passed if I'm still in the same shot. Maybe I'm overdoing it a bit. ;)
I want a complete redesign. Gotek does not work for me right now. - 20x2 OLED display, not a tiny one, so you can see "Rick Dangerous.dsk" instead of RICKD.DSK with UTF-8 character support - Ditch the USB drive. I want a USB cable to my computer directly. On the computer it shows up as drive as well. The storage is in the gotek itself, so nobody can pull a thumbdrive in a museum setup.
hey jan..dor krautrockt!er hier..eine fage zum (amiga)gotek....ob der der auch beim c65 (intern) funzen könnte?...danke für den clip und deine arbeit uns retro-freaks was bei zubringen!..ich wünsch dir alles gute und ne schönen herbst! dein tech. idiot aus chemnitz🙂
Ich weiß leider nicht genau, welches Diskettenlaufwerk der C65 benutzt. Wenn es ein Commodore 1581-kompatibles Laufwerk ist, braucht es da noch eine ganze Menge extra Schaltkreise, um zu funktionieren. Ich vermute aber mal, dass die Ingenieure da ein PC-kompatibles Interface benutzen, also sollte ein Gotek ohne Probleme funktionieren.
@@JanBeta hey, danke für die antwort....kann ich dir mal ne mail schicken mir fotos? evtl. erkennst du ja was das für eine ist..? ich bin da zu dämmlich für als wieder einsteiger...🙂lg, alles gute, ein schönes we dir und weitersoo!
Why even open the gotek? I use 2 cut pieces of paperclip and stick them in the holes without opening the case at all. Worked every time for me. Of cause you should use copper ones and bend them so they stick with tension. And you can flash the drive with a USB-A to USB-A cable instead of this stupid rs232-to-usb crap. There is a nice video of TheRasteri here on youtube showing this method.
I didn't know about the USB flashing. Does that work with the simple software I show or do you need the ST cube programmer? Also, sticking wires into circuit boards is not really something I would recommend. Although you probably get away with it for a serial connection like this.
@@JanBeta Just watch this video: czcams.com/video/yUOyZB9cro4/video.html Flashing like described in this video worked for me with all fresh Gotek drives i bought on aliexpress. I used this after i recognized aliexpress seller ripped me off and sent me a rs232 interface that didn't work.
My personal contribution about Goteks : with minimum FW 3.13a, with your gotek you can read Amiga, Atari ST, PC, Amstrad CPC original games with their copy protections intact in HFE v3 experimental format. Any of them !
@dlfrsilver As the HFEv3 designer i can tell you that the weak bits emulation is not accurate at all from the HFEv3. Same for the variable bitrate (speedlock). You can't associate "HFEv3" and "intact" in the same sentence. This format is just an approximation to try to roughly emulate these protections, that's why it still in "experimental" state, it is far to be perfect...
@dlfrsilver Je passe en Français car apparemment le message ne passe pas : Le format HFEv3 ne peut pas restituer une image "intacte" de l'original, c'est juste IMPOSSIBLE. Commencer a répandre cette information est un mensonge ou alors au mieux une grosse incompréhension du fonctionnement du format.... et cela va finir en catastrophe pour la préservation (comme pour les STX...)... Qu'il y a quelques jeux qui ce laissent duper par la supercherie, ça oui je suis au courant, mais ça reste une bidouille et ne signifie pas que vous pouvez restituer une image/disque dans son état d'origine... Bref je suis très très surpris et je pense qu'on va clarifier les choses car ça part n'importe ou là... au fait tu n'es plus chez SPS ?
I love watching this stuff. You have a fan from Fremantle Western Australia. I am currently rebuilding my Amiga 500 and I get my parts from the Amiga store. They have been great, even from the other side of the world.
@Mr Guru Same WA boy. Love to get one again, had the Amiga 600HD with ram upgrade in the day, 40MB HDD.
@Mr Guru Cheers thanks alot.
@Mr Guru wow!! Yes, I will have a look. I am currently documenting the repair I have done and will upload a video when done. It involves some drama and a six month jump cut due to a certain 'pandemic'.
@Mr Guru also, where could I get an Amiga Mouse?
Thanks Ryan! I agree, never had any issues with Amigastore, always good service and quality products. :)
Great video - I did not know that you could upgrade the gotek like this:)
Thanks! It's easy to do, too. :)
A few recommendations for others modding plastic pieces. Get a good file set and just slowly file your openings. That, or mill it if you have one.
On holes, always drill with the part clamped rigidly. Also, build a hole guide out of wood to get accurate placements and straight holes. A hole guide can just be two pieces of wood glued or nailed together in an L shape with the desired hole pattern drilled into it refrenced off the inner edge of the opposite leg that will be used as your stop/edge guide.
wow that's complicated. I just drill the hole. works every time
This is a great project. I plan to mod my external non functional Amiga floppy to this Gotek drive. The Gotek drive I have on "stock", the other parts are being ordered. Thanx Jan for this great video. Jürgen 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice! Hope everything work well for you. If you want to boot from an external drive, you might have to install a DF0 switch into your Amiga. :)
@@JanBeta Thanx Jan for the hint but I know it from my Commodore history. Today, 1. Sept. in the evening, this amazing floppy is working fine. The build took me one day and I am absolutely impressed about the function and features. I am a big fan of your YT videos, please keep them running. 👍👍👍
The STM32 Cube Programmer is much better software from ST. You can also flash the STM32 in DFU mode with a usb A-A cable instead of serial (you can easily short the BOOT pins with tweezers so no soldering required).
Just came here to say the same. Programmed mine, that way. Easy as pie.
I was about to say the same😀
Ha, didn't know that worked. I'm going to try that asap. Thanks!
Can you give a bit more details? I want to mod my Gotek drive, it's stock right now, and if I can flash it without buying the serial adapter that'd be great. I didn't find anything about using a USB A-A cable to flash it in the tutorial Jan linked and I am not sure what to search for. I want to make sure I'm not doing it wrong by mistake. Thank you.
Just posted the USB-A procedure a few days ago: czcams.com/video/HtEWS6m1okM/video.html
Thanks for showing us this disk drive emu, saves us having to use disks which could be getting quite delicate now. Love your channel!
Not bad. I did a similar upgrade a few years back. A few tips though. You can solder to the pin header on the underside of the board for the connection that need to come out on the top and it's much cleaner. I also installed the speaker mod that you said you didn't like. However what I did was to get a flat piezo and tsoldered it to the under side of the pin header and mounted it flat against the pcb with tape. It doesn't make much of a buzz sound but it makes more a click sound which sounds pretty good actually.
Oh, great idea to solder the headers on the bottom side. I might add a piezo at some point but as I said I don't really like the emulated sounds. There is a speaker in the other Gotek I show in the video.
I would like to have a firmware, that is capable of emulating all 4 drives (df0, df1, df2, df3) for Amiga with just one Gotek drive. I think HxC was able to do it with their own hardware. The Amiga selects the different drives by pulling SEL0 and SEL1 high or low accordingly. The firmware would just have to check SEL0 and SEL1 to check which drive is being accessed and remember the states of the drives (which ADF image is mounted, head position, etc.). It is definitly possible!
Well flashfloppy is open source on github, you could contact the author and make that proposal, or fork and do it yourself.
The part of the C64 VIC-II² mod that gave me the most trouble was cutting the pin headers apart without cracking them open more than necessary. You make it look easy. lol
Oh, I had the same problem before. I think the plastic used for the headers sometimes is really brittle. I just got lucky with these ones I guess.
Amazing! I just found your channel while researching repairs to my CPC 6128. I have one of these Gotek drives and nearly bought a new one for these extra features, I will be flashing and drilling, much more fun.
i managed to upgrade my own gotek after watching this tutorial.. the HXC firmware is probably the best update for my amiga since the aca 500+...and in my opinion a must have compared to the crappy firmware my gotek got shipped with =)
I love the way you pronounce the "insert" word. Makes me always smile. Nice mod.
Ha, thanks! ;)
Everyone, take note: there's an easier way to do the flashing without using a TTL. Simply buy (or make) a USB-A to USB-A cable (all pins attached), and plug one end into front of Gotek, the other into PC's USB port. (No need to apply power to Gotek during flashing.) However, you still must add the jumpers as Jan did (full details on FF website).
Also, as you're probably only going to be doing this flashing once, it's sort of overkill to solder in pin headers. (Esp if you're not good at soldering...) All you need to do is poke short pieces of straightened out paperclip through the two relevant holes of pins to be jumpered. They are through-plated so you should get a connection easily. Make sure the wires don't touch each other or any other parts of the PCB. Also remember to remove them after flashing is succesful.
Jan, great video... I'm inspired, and ordering parts already!
Thanks! Glad to inspire you, hope everything goes smoothly. :)
Dein nächster Wunsch zu Weihnachten: Ein Dremel
Hab schon einen, nur nicht benutzt weil mir das Aussehen in diesem Fall egal war. ;)
Nice Totoro wallpaper!
Thanks! Love Totoro. :)
*Jan Beta:* I have seen photographs of an SD floppy drive emulator that not only has the face plate of a 3.5 inch drive, but also the disk slot. The disk slot is not meant for regular floppies. Instead, you put your SD card in a caddy that looks just like a 3.5 inch disk, and insert it that way. I really like this idea, and hope that whomever made it, makes a 5.25 inch version. I was wondering if you've seen these types, and what do you think?
I don't know the status of the SD floppy caddy drive, but I hope it emulates disk access sounds.
Very helpful! Starting to get my A1200 going again.
Cool project Jan!
Thanks James! :)
Who would have guessed that Dirk Nowitski was into Amiga modding!
That is far easier than I thought it would be. Neat!
Yes, I was surprised myself how simple the mods are!
Thank you. I give it a try
And when you're done using the Serial-2-USB adapter to program your GoTek, you can use it to connect your Commodore 8 bit computer (with a user port) to a Raspberry Pi. This gives you more options than your regular WiFi modem, because not only can you access a BBS (by running tcpser on the RasPi which emulates an old dial-up modem), but you can also access RSS feeds, Twitter, etc. by writing some Python code that takes data from the internet and shuffles it over to the Commodore.
Yes, definitely need to try that at some point! :)
Thank you for your Love of Tech ! :-)
Useful mods! Personally I couldn't live without a piezo-speaker for step-sound indication. It's sometimes quite interesting "how" things are loaded. On my STs e.g. some disks (mostly demos) are loaded one side after the other, instead of double-sided. You hear that in the speed of the clicks. The LEDs I don't need at all, because on a side-mounted Gotek, like in the Atari STF or Amiga 500, they are quite useless. Here my Goteks in my 1040STF flic.kr/p/2dFroth and my 1040STE flic.kr/p/2iz3Rii ,the 3D-printed frame with buzzer-holder flic.kr/p/2iu1sYi I modified the rotaray-encoder PCB with straight pins heading to the back. It's just a cleaner cable installation. 😀
Thanks for sharing! Looks great. I want to put this one into my Amiga 2000 at some point so I'm going to go with a 3d printed bracket. Might add a little speaker, too, but as I said I find the emulated sounds rather annoying. ;)
@@JanBeta yes, they're absolutly not realistic, but it "replays" the head-position quite good.
Too bad there won't be the possibility to replay sampled drive-sounds in the Gotek. The ST-emulator SainT does this very authentic, as you can "hear" it in one of my sampledemos recorded with SainT: czcams.com/video/1fR-BbWsWm0/video.html
I absolutly hear no difference when I load the demo from physical disk on my SF314 drive!
Yeah but does the piezo speaker sound anything like the ST's aggressive disc accessing noises? The whole "ARRRRRRRRRR ARRRRRRR ARRRRR click click ARRRR ARRRR tick tick tick tick ARRRRRR ARRRR click click"? :) I miss that from my 1040STf. I don't remember the Falcon030's 1.44MB drive sounding like that.
@TPau65, that screen mount for the Gotek on your AtariST is great! I'm going to "cook" a screen mount similar to that one for my Amiga 500, once I flash my Gotek.
@@TheJeremyHolloway a decent speaker is a must of course. I think even the speaker of the Falcon isn't enough for a decent sound-playback of these Atari-drives! 😁
Yes, Falcon's standard PC-drive sounds boring by comparison. ^^
Man, the cutout for the OLED is very very bad! :-)
my first attempt at something like this was also quite messy. One day out shopping at Aldi I found a little set of precision files and I have found that using those for small jobs like this gets good results!
@@barnabas5688 Model of those files? A link maybe?
@@CP200S Here you go: www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-7-piece-needle-file-set/p/800452361477800
The problem is, like most Aldi products, they aren't around for long. I'm sure you could get something similar from another brand, they're usually copying Stanley or Bosch or whoever...
@@barnabas5688 Thank you, I will try to get hold of something at least similar!
Admittedly yes, I didn’t take care at all because this is going to end up in a 3D printed bracket anyway. ;)
I’m a musician - piano player and a proud owner of a vintage musical Keyboard Korg IS40
Gotek really help me bring it to modern times by replacing to old and unreliable floppy disk to USB…
As a professional musician special in important moments as New Year eve and other great party that I’ve to play I normally use my own arrangement in all of music, I keep them in the USB pen in several floppies, the problem is that during all performance I need change music according the reaction of the people, and sometime well a lot of times those music are in different floppy and to move down the selection is at the moment impossible…
I can only move up the selection but to move down our back to the 000 floppy I need to turn off the keyboard… and that takes a huge amount of time…
I wonder if there’s anything that we can do… in programming our making some kind of connection to allow some kind of mod to move it up and down the selection of the floppy in a quick and efficient way…
If that alteration were possible that would change the game forever…
any musician that use any vintage musical Keyboard in a daily base is desperately churning for this feature… Time between musics in a stage is the most hated thing when people are having fun…
Best regards from Funchal - Madeira - Portugal…
Hi Jan Beta, I have seen your channel for over a year and you do a good job, I also made a CZcams channel that is RetroSave, but it is in Portuguese which is my language, I also made a video this week about on make a mod on gotek, but I added an acrylic to protect the oled displays and made the sound mod more, which was very good. if you want to see, feel free, but it's in portuguese i don't know if youtube translates it, keep up the good work.
surprising youtube does ok translating in other languages, sometimes is funny the words it uses :D
Thanks! Ah, I subscribed to your channel. Nice work on the Gotek!
@@skybear3530 Yes it's true, but it still helps you don't know the language of the video, but sometimes it gets hard to understand: s
@@JanBeta thank you for subscribing to my channel, I'm very happy, and to like my Gotek mod.
TBH, I was expecting the cutout to not be straight and the holes misaligned 😂
Business as usual in the Beta lab... 😅
im flashing goteks via the build-in USB in front .. very easy aswell :)
I didn't know that worked! Does it work with the simple software I used or do you have to use something else for the USB flashing?
@@JanBeta
u need a program called Dfuse demo (as i recall) free download from STM homepage.
then u need to bridge the 2x2 pionts - first the 3v and Boot .. second the TX and 5v
install software and connect to pc trough a USB A - USB A cable
run the software (install drivers if it doesnt do it by it self)
in the flashfloppy firmware zip is a file called .DFU who u need to upload via the program..
afterwords remove the bridges on points.. and your done :)
dont know i that makes sense.. but feel free to ask :)
lolz "I'm using windows 10 my favorite operating system", in my head I said 'this is a lie Jan' then you came clean and admitted it is not. love this channel, great content.
Tbh I adore Windows 10
Haha, thanks!
I did the the same mods,too. btw you can flash the Firmware with a USB -A to USB-A Cable.
Later i switched to a Amiga Pi Drive it Supports up to 4 Floppy Drives
Can you give details on the amiga pi drive?
I didn't know about the USB flashing unfortunately. Would make things even easier. I also have to try the Amiga Pi drive. :)
@@JanBeta addon video? ^^
@@vectorjoe Take a look at amigadrive.blogspot.com/?m=1
We want floppy drive head noises mod too!
It doesnt sound great, but useful on images that dont give an indication of loading progress.
The Gotek sound/noise sounds worse than the real actual mechanical sound from a physical drive. Untill that is in place, I really see no use for it.
As I said in the video, I don’t like the buzzer noises much. If you want to add a buzzer/speaker, it’s literally just a matter of connecting it to two pins on the Gotek header. ;)
@@JanBeta What if you use a regular speaker with an electrolytic cap to filter high freqs, does it still sound so bad?
I think so, it’s just square wave sounds as far as I know. Good for indicating activity though of course.
Got one of the bad boys in my Atari STe, very cool
Yes! They are immensely useful. Especially if your real drives break. :)
On some unmodded goteks, they left out two of the six front pin headers where you would connect two pins of the rotary encoder, so you have to solder these headers in yourself. Nice job, as you mentioned, the rotary switch on top of the gotek usually is not very useful. Next step wouks be to 3d print the montage plate to fit the gotek into your A500 fitting the oled in a nicevlittle case on top by fitting the four cables through the vents so you do not have to damage your case vy drilling holes or something....
Oh, good to know the headers are missing on some Goteks. I was suspecting something like that, there seem to be differently equipped models. I'm planning to put this in a 3d printed bracket in my A2000, as I said in the video. So my "case mods" were not very sophisticated. ;)
Hey, good practice. I am very interested in modding this for an Amiga 2000. My tryouts were not so successful. Best results with a 3d-printer i think but i have not the hardware for that job.
Looking for a demonstration on how to clone a disk image using the flashfloppy menu system. It's not quite so clear to me that I'm not overwriting existing images.
It's Friday ! It's Jan betas day ! Have a great weekend!
Thanks Boca! Have a nice rest of the weekend, too. ;)
Hi, it will be better to Flash Your personal upgrade Gotek with the Other HXC firmware... to compare it with FlashFloppy firmware...
Because, HXC firmware is the native development to use IPF files (From SPS) converted into HFEV3 format to play game like originals games without any cracks...for myself the best game sensation.🕹
Yeah, definitely want to try the HxC firmware sometime soon. It seems to be a bit more versatile still. :)
i will try try to program some interesting comments from viewers about using usb aa cable to flash unit , your idea was very cheap to make really good jan , i didnt think u could flash these gotek drives like this .. good easy to upgrade and keep units for long time . dupoint dupont correct spelling, see ya jan
Awesome mod!
Your English is really good...
Thanks! :)
Hello. Great video, pretty much explanatory, thank you!
I've got a question though, before attaching an OLED (as well as a buzzer for track sound).
Do I need to update the GOTEK's firmware to a certain version and above in order for the OLED (and buzzer please) to work? Currently I'm using a GOTEK with v105a firmware (never upgraded it as it works fine) inside an Amiga 600. Thank you.
You need to use the Flashfloppy firmware (as shown in the video). The stock Gotek firmware doesn't support the extra features.
Hi Jan, I have a PCB with a 4Pin Header for 7Seg Display, the other 2Pins are not present. Have You information to connect the rotary encoder? to which pin do I have to solder the encoder? Thank You
Another great video :)
Thank you! :)
nice video
After soldering the pins, jumpering the pins and connecting the ttl programmer, I have no display? When all the mod wires are removed, the display works aagain. Are the 9 pins I soldered related to the gotek display in any way?
Thanks, Russell.
I gave it a thumbs up because I didn't know you could do that. But, I have some criticisms. Mainly just too mush talking. Explain what you are doing while you are doing it. People can see on the screen what wires are going where as shown by the writing on the circuit board and the illustrations in the instruction guide.
Wouldn't it have been easier to find someone making 3d printed cases for the device?
Hi Jan. Where does the Amiga rank on your list of favorite retro computers? I've never had one myself. What is your favorite Amiga model? Great stuff!
I think with modern versions of Flash Floppy you don't even need to trim the case for the OLED and it clips itself to the visible window - hard to tell on yours though because of the angle.
I think there are OLED displays that fit exactly. The one I bought is significantly wider than the original so I had to modify the case quite a bit (also cut the little ridges where the original 7-segment display clipped in).
We're are trying to use a Miditemp with a Gotek USB Floppy Disk Emulator. Now we have two problems: 1) We can't connect the Gotek in the proper way. We tried all possible solutions and variations with jumpers, flatcable or config files. Miditemp doesn't recognize the Gotek. 2) Even if the Gotek displays the correct number of images of floppy disks on the 4GB USB stick, Miditemp doesn't see the midi files in those images. Not sure what software (Windows 10) to us for making images and putting files in those images. Can anyone help us with (step by step) instructions, software, links or whatever? Thanks.
Ich habe heute ein OLED display im ein ggotek-amiga eingebaut. Es war alles OK, aber als ich die Folie vom OLED abgemacht habe, ging der diplay nicht mehr. ES ist wohl kaputt. Wie weis ich ob es kaputt ist?
How do I know if the OLED-display is damaged?
Jan Beta Was Here!
Definitely! ;)
Can this procidure be used to convert a PC gotek to an Amiga Gotek?
Yes
hi, I just installed a gotek emulator to my oldest roland keyboard , but after all steps I get only error 34 , if somenone get the same problem, please let me know , thank you
Nice job! Do you know if we can flash a really old Gotek emulator, in order to make it use normal USB sticks? I had to format a stick as a super floppy disk, or something and it only takes one floppy per stick... It doesn' t even have a display of any kind, nor any buttons. I want to put just the buttons and use an image file, without having to format the stick, leaving it in a usual, FAT32 format. Or maybe add the buttons and even a 3-digit display, if I find one.
is it possible to read USB fat12 format after flashing my gotek?
I am not able to download the STM flasher software. On the website I enter my personal datas, than I get an email for the download link. The download link transfers me to the STM website. On this site I am searching for the flash program. When I click to the link I have to register again and so far. What I made wrong? Could someone help please :) Jürgen
@Mr Guru Wonderful, thank you, this worked. I appreciate this absolutely :) Regards Jürgen
Ho comprato un un'emulatore compatibile per una tastiera Roland.e.96 ma non riesco a formattare emulatore floppy USB mi puoi dire come fare Grazie
Hi Jan. Greetings from Athens, Greece. Your amazon german links don't work. So could you please direct me to a european link for the correct size of rotary encoder for front panel instalation (very important since I will use it on my synth). Thanks
Hallo Jan,
ich habe mir den Emulator gekauft. Habe aber immer die Fehlermeldung Error 31.
Ich möchte den Emulator an einem Retro-Pc nutzen.
Magst Du mir bitte helfen, ich bin des Englischen leider nicht so mächtig, da ich schon ein etwas älteres Semester bin.
Man please teach us how to adapt the Gotek to USB connection. It seems regalr Floppy to USB cables can't do the work, at least by themselves.
Gas guy subscrides on him...
GAS GAS GAS I'M GONNA STEP ON THE GAS
Danke für das Video, Jan. Ich bin aktuell am überlegen, wie ich ein Gotek in mein 486er Laptop bekomme. Hast du da Erfahrungen damit?
Für IBM-Kompatible sollte ein Gotek so ziemlich Plug & Play funktionieren, auch mit der "stock" Firmware. Wenn du die Flashfloppy Firmware benutzen möchtest, geht natürlich auch das (und dann kannst du auch ein externes Display haben etc). Habe ich selbst aber am PC noch nicht ausprobiert.
@@JanBeta super, dann werde ich da mal angreifen. Dankeschön 😁
Do you have to use specific Flashfloppy firmwares to match specific machines? I didn't see it mentioned on the Github page, so I guess one doesn't have to bother with it - but just in case. I use an Amiga 500 with stock Gotek, and I really, really want the OLED upgrade, hehe.
No, the Flashfloppy firmware works with lots of machines out of the box.
@@JanBeta Thanks for replying! I went ahead and just flashed it yesterday - works great! Having the OLED makes it 10x easier to use. Thanks for the tutorial!
Anyone advise where drivers can be obtained for the usb to serial adapter?
If you have a 5.25" bay and want a really good sized OLED instead of those tiny 0.96" things, check out my printable case at www.thingiverse.com/thing:3820252
I designed this for my Emulator II which has the FDD on far left, so I specifically wanted a design where I could still see the display while twiddling the rotary encoder without my hand blocking the view.
Schönes Video...
No wrist esd strap today?
If people wanted to go overboard, add in a basic web server and WiFi and then log in from a phone, tablet, computer to select your disk image ;)
(Or Bluetooth and a custom app)
this thing doesnt have wifi to my knowledge
urugulu Yeah, hence why I used “add in”. It was also typed as a bit of fun...
@@richards7909 that would require a different micro or an interface chip since the stm32 doesnt have any of that.
Can we manage the gotek usb emu with a Mac OSX ?
Schön ist was anderes aber es funktioniert! :-) Da du ja auch Deutsch sprichst kann ich ja in Deutsch kommentieren :-)
there ar 3d print able cases that have the correct size opening for the oled on thingyverse
Yes, I'm going to use one of those in the future. That's why I didn't pay much attention when I modded the case. ;)
Hello Jan,
I like your video's a lot. When watching this one I got puzzled by what you do in 9:59. You say: 'and I connected the brown to Tx and the orange to Rx, so we have to connect it the other way round here, so this one (holding orange) should be Rx and this one (holding brown) should be Tx.' If you connect the jumpers as you said, you're not reversing them. I was expecting the communication to fail yet it worked fine. Waht's happening here?
Oh, might just be a mistake on my end. Maybe I misspoke there. You have to connect TX to RX and RX to TX obviously for the connection to work. So that must be what I did. Sorry if that was confusing.
What is maximum capacity (limitation) for USB memory stick? I heard, the capacity should not be more than 4 GB. Is it true? thanks
The stick I’m using in the video is 16GB and I’ve also successfully used a 32GB one. I don’t know if there’s a limit at all with the FlashFloppy firmware. Maybe there’s a 4GB limit with an older version but I didn’t run into any issues.
Jan, next video suggestion, FF OSD on your Amiga.
Jan, can you do a video on how to upgrading your Gotek to an On-Screen Display (OSD)?
Yes, I have that on my to-do list. I’ll get there eventually. :)
Hi i really love your work and
I have this game boy advance sp ags001 and it's missing som components .I was wandering if you can help me find out what are these. The components are
C33
C34
Q4
F1
Thanks a lot.
I use the usb-a male to usb-a male cable because i had one lying around and didn't have a serial adapter to program flashfloppy firmware on the gotek and i need to add the led display to mine as well, i dont really care about drive noises at all.
Didn't know it was possible with the USB cables, good to know. The LED display is the most useful mod I think. Makes it so much easier to navigate. :)
If I do this to my Gotek, will I still be able to treat the USB stick as a 1000 floppies? Or more? :) If so, can I easily mount/access and read/write to those virtual floppies (1.4mb) on Mac OS?
Necro but, yes, the original functionality is all preserved, just extended - with far more disk image formats for example. If you can mount your images on your Mac currently you would still be able to do so afterwards
3:16 Don't worry , Jan. You're German, so you just use your German Engineering superpower, and everything will be ok!*
*except when drilling stuff.
😎🤘😎🤘😎🤘
well done keir fraser for flash floppy
Yes, awesome work. I love that he keeps things open and free.
Hi Jan, do you think you could get one of these to work withg an old Yamaha Clavanoa cp80?
Thanks
They arent Amiga specific, they emulate the standard "Shugart" floppy interface so it should be entirely possible to use one. I know they have been successfully used in other old synths, so unless Yamaha did something really wierd I dont see why it wouldnt work
Peter Mulholland thanks Peter, I know when we looked they had swapped some of the pins around on the interface, I tried the Amiga drive out of my external drive but it didn’t work and now the drive won’t read disks from my Amiga either.
Lucky those TXD/RXD lines on the STM32F105 are 5V tolerant isn't it, you checked that right ;-)
Lol yes thanks, it was a humorous dig from a patron.
FYI the usb/ttl converter doesn't technically "handle the voltages levels automatically" it will just spit out whatever voltage it was built for (5/3.3/1.8v typically) and it is still up to the user to work out if those levels are compatible with the target hardware. The STM32F105 is nice like that with most pins being 5v tolerant indeed making it almost goose proof!
Ha! As usual, I always check everything! Safety first! ;)
I'm presuming the reason you're using the USB serial adapter is because your MSWin or Linux machines don't have regular DB9 ports. Mine still does, so is that usable instead?
Yes, my current PC doesn't have a serial port anymore. You should be able to use any serial connection. Just select the appropriate port in the software. :)
I don't think so. Remember Jan that your adapter is USB to TTL serial. TTL serial is not the same as an RS232 serial port.
This is awesome, Jan. One of the issues I have is that my gotek is installed in my A2000 but the slot for it is just a little too big. It mounts OK but doesn't look very nice. Do you know of a fix for this?
Yes, there is a 3D printable bracket on Thingiverse. I plan on trying that myself in the future.
@@JanBeta Sounds great, but I don't have access to a 3D printer. Looking forward to seeing you try it out!
I wish they would make these with an in-system menu program so I don't have to print out a sheet of numbers or remember which number is which image... That oled screen is too small
That would be difficult to implement, as that type of functionality is outside of the spec of the original floppy interface. It's possible, but they would have to code software for every single platform (Amiga, Amstrad, DOS, Windows, etc) that the Gotek is used on.
You can add larger displays, too. And there’s options for on screen displays for some systems even.
Flashfloppy supports bigger OLEDs, and the name of the adf is displayed as text on the OLED.
github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Hardware-Mods#on-screen-display-osd
hxc2001.free.fr/floppy_drive_emulator/index.html#SDCARDFloppyemulator_Onscreendisplay
This is a HxC Floppy emulator option since a decade : github.com/jfdelnero/HXCFE_file_selector
The HxC firmware for gotek also support these file selectors : hxc2001.com/store/
And the HxC firmware for gotek also has the OSD output support to make these OLED screen useless :) (only 2 wires and a resistor needed :) ) : czcams.com/video/Kl1FX8N-ILo/video.html
Actually you can flash it with usb directly
I didn't know that, somebody pointed out you need the other ST software for that? Or does it work with the one I used, too?
I think the way I'd do it is design a new case in Fusion and make a new case with a 3d printer.
There are several available on Thingiverse already.
@@daishi5571 I spotted a bunch, but none with a hole for an encoder wheel/knob - it wouldn't be to hard to modify one of those designs.
I'm probably going to end up slightly modifying one of the existing cases. :)
i amm most want to get a Gotek drive.. but..... i have so many floppy's and there so enjoyable to slid in lol
Same here, I use both. I still prefer the real thing but the Goteks are a very nice alternative if you don't have a working disk drive or just want to quickly test a disk image.
I really enjoyed your video but that blur and fade out effect that you randomly put into the video is a bit annoying.
Oh, they are not really put in there randomly. I'm using the fades to indicate that some time passed if I'm still in the same shot. Maybe I'm overdoing it a bit. ;)
I want a complete redesign. Gotek does not work for me right now.
- 20x2 OLED display, not a tiny one, so you can see "Rick Dangerous.dsk" instead of RICKD.DSK with UTF-8 character support
- Ditch the USB drive. I want a USB cable to my computer directly. On the computer it shows up as drive as well. The storage is in the gotek itself, so nobody can pull a thumbdrive in a museum setup.
you should modify it so it works as a usb floppy drive on windows
That... would make sense... ;D
hey jan..dor krautrockt!er hier..eine fage zum (amiga)gotek....ob der der auch beim c65 (intern) funzen könnte?...danke für den clip und deine arbeit uns retro-freaks was bei zubringen!..ich wünsch dir alles gute und ne schönen herbst! dein tech. idiot aus chemnitz🙂
Ich weiß leider nicht genau, welches Diskettenlaufwerk der C65 benutzt. Wenn es ein Commodore 1581-kompatibles Laufwerk ist, braucht es da noch eine ganze Menge extra Schaltkreise, um zu funktionieren. Ich vermute aber mal, dass die Ingenieure da ein PC-kompatibles Interface benutzen, also sollte ein Gotek ohne Probleme funktionieren.
@@JanBeta hey, danke für die antwort....kann ich dir mal ne mail schicken mir fotos? evtl. erkennst du ja was das für eine ist..? ich bin da zu dämmlich für als wieder einsteiger...🙂lg, alles gute, ein schönes we dir und weitersoo!
Klar, email-Adresse findest du auf janbeta.net!
@@JanBeta dankeschön!
Why even open the gotek? I use 2 cut pieces of paperclip and stick them in the holes without opening the case at all. Worked every time for me. Of cause you should use copper ones and bend them so they stick with tension. And you can flash the drive with a USB-A to USB-A cable instead of this stupid rs232-to-usb crap. There is a nice video of TheRasteri here on youtube showing this method.
I didn't know about the USB flashing. Does that work with the simple software I show or do you need the ST cube programmer? Also, sticking wires into circuit boards is not really something I would recommend. Although you probably get away with it for a serial connection like this.
Ah, yes, I realize that. I meant I didn’t know about flashing it with a USB A-A cable.
Once you have the FF firmware, things are easier obviously.
@@JanBeta Just watch this video: czcams.com/video/yUOyZB9cro4/video.html
Flashing like described in this video worked for me with all fresh Gotek drives i bought on aliexpress. I used this after i recognized aliexpress seller ripped me off and sent me a rs232 interface that didn't work.
i would probably describe windows 10 as the most prevalent and most UNpopular software...
Haha, yeah, that's probably more accurate... :D
My personal contribution about Goteks : with minimum FW 3.13a, with your gotek you can read Amiga, Atari ST, PC, Amstrad CPC original games with their copy protections intact in HFE v3 experimental format. Any of them !
personal contribution ? lol :)). Btw the HFEv3 doesn't support all the copy protections and for sure doesn't keep them "intact"...
@@JeffHxC2001 all the protections I tried weak bits, longtracks, overlapping tracks, they all work.
@dlfrsilver As the HFEv3 designer i can tell you that the weak bits emulation is not accurate at all from the HFEv3. Same for the variable bitrate (speedlock). You can't associate "HFEv3" and "intact" in the same sentence. This format is just an approximation to try to roughly emulate these protections, that's why it still in "experimental" state, it is far to be perfect...
@@JeffHxC2001 I confirm to you that all the special case you talk about are working and pass the tests. None of them fails.
@dlfrsilver Je passe en Français car apparemment le message ne passe pas : Le format HFEv3 ne peut pas restituer une image "intacte" de l'original, c'est juste IMPOSSIBLE. Commencer a répandre cette information est un mensonge ou alors au mieux une grosse incompréhension du fonctionnement du format.... et cela va finir en catastrophe pour la préservation (comme pour les STX...)... Qu'il y a quelques jeux qui ce laissent duper par la supercherie, ça oui je suis au courant, mais ça reste une bidouille et ne signifie pas que vous pouvez restituer une image/disque dans son état d'origine...
Bref je suis très très surpris et je pense qu'on va clarifier les choses car ça part n'importe ou là...
au fait tu n'es plus chez SPS ?
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