How to: Repair Fibreglass Boat Floor
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
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Bote Cote Marine Epoxy System is based on modern Technology and is much safer to use than most other Epoxies available in Australia. We often have people who are sensitive to old technology Epoxies still able to use Bote-Cote. You can read how Bote Cote is safer than other epoxies in our Information Sheet titled Hypersensitivity to Epoxy.
BOTE- COTE is an easy to use 2:1 mixing ratio, which is a low toxic formulation free of amine blush under all climatic conditions.
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BOTE- COTE Marine Epoxy System preserves timbers natural beauty and warmth, vastly reducing a wooden boats maintenance requirements. In fact a modern wood/ epoxy composite boat requires no more maintenance than a fiberglass boat.
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Good Morning Robert,
Thanks for your positive feedback. I have been given some really poor info in the past. Customers and friends have been on my case for ages to do video's to support the techniques I discuss with them. Anyway early last year we did our first video and Charlotte is now Eddie the expert in pulling them together.
I am glad it helped you in your repair.
Dave
Good Aye Hal, From down under. In the USA System 3 is a modern technology epoxy Resin similar to Bote Cote and is much safer to use than old Technology Epoxies such as WEST System.
Gents, Thanks for the video. I've got a Catalina 22 that is about to get the same treatment. I was pretty sure what I needed to do but watching your work verified my thinking is on track. I'll probably try to video the repair on mine and will share once I get started. Again thanks mates!
Where do you live Kevin?
If in Australia make sure you use Bote Cote Epoxy Resin as it is much Safer and Easier to use than most other epoxies. Plus it has heaps of other benefits which you will find in our Information Sheet @ www.BoatCraftNSW.com.au
One thing I did not do with that floor was to tape the edges and it is worth doing if staying with thin plywood in case you get some flexing.
Have fun.
Just watched this... I think it's a great job. I have a soft cockpit floor in a 23-foot sailboat that I am going to have to repair this winter... this video helps. Thanks.
Good Morning Hal,
Thanks for your positive feedback. It is always good when people appreciate our efforts in educating them to be able to play with their boats. I only wish I would have had this info available when I started out "mucking around with boats". It would have saved me many hours of work & rework due to poor advice provided.
Good Luck with your deck. Where are you located?
Have fun, Dave
DRIVEMS I'm in Waldport Oregon. I have to repair the cockpit floor in a 23 foot sailboat
Using a small hole saw I cut a small piece out of my floor. From that I could determine how thick the deck was. It was just over 1/8". I set my saw to that thickness and cut out the area to expose the keel section. The idea was to fix a keel crack from both sides. Once removing deck section it exposed two stringers when ch to my surprising were made from fiberglass also. I'm guessing there may be one more on each side that I did not expose. I noticed the stringers was not bonded to the hull but rather floated with about a 1/2" gap between. The only bond was to the fiberglass deck. The fiberglass that connected the stringers together also floated. I had to cut that also with a grinder to expose the keel. After repairing the crack from the inside I will role the boat over and more glass to the bottom. But before I do that I most replace the floor section I cut out. I will use the same piece of floor section I initially removed. I beveled all the edges and will use epoxy/glass around the perimeter. The two stringers I exposed will be rebounded with epoxy also. I will put weights on the floor, probably bricks, to add some compression over the stringer area. It's been a slow process.
What was the boat about 2x3” from the door to the floor hatch for
After measuring the window glass it was about three inches too short in length. Plan B...replace using the same fiberglass panel I cut out. I will bevel the edges and epoxy the perimeter with fiberglass and epoxy. It's warped a bit so I will weight it down with bricks.
Good Morning David,
Where are you located. Your approach sounds fair as long as it looks ok to the eye and does not look like some added in to fit a window which was too short.
Just what I needed to know to fix my 1980 Trojan F32 Cockpit drain area.
Thanks Robert,
I hope it gave you an insight into how to do a first class job.
I have written a few comments and I thank you for those immediate responses. Just wanted you to know that I have many years experience building boats which range from 35 to 65 feet. That was a lot no time ago when I worked at Irwin Yacht and Marine. I'm retired now, age 64. I like be in Lima, Ohio now. Have you ever used PL PREMIUM as an adhesive? I'm finding it to be great stuff.
Due to the registration requirements many epoxies do not make it to Australia due to their toxicity. What brand is PL Premium? Is it a glue or a resin? What mix ratio is it? Is there a smell when you use it?
I'm a coachbulder here In the UK I've just overhauled several fishing boats and what we use is not available anywhere else in the world. The only products we use that the rest of the world would recognise is the west systems epoxy and matting. Apart from that we use home brand stuff including the paint.
If you use plywood the same thing will happen again. I have the same problem. I'm waxing the glass from a door and will lay-up fiberglass over that to make a panel to fit my floor. No plywood to rot. Totally experimental...but it should work.
Good Morning David,
If you did the job with Polyester and did not seal all openings - YES. The reason being is that polyester is not waterproof and it is also a very poor adhesive. The reason it ended up a mess in the first place was due to the polyester layer pulling away from the plywood due to poor adhesion to the plywood and inability to flex.
By using a high solids Epoxy such as Bote Cote you are locking everything together and making a much stronger and waterproof structure. If you look, you will see we pre-cut the holes for the hatches before gluing it all together so that the cut edges were sealed very well with epoxy to ensure no moisture ingress. It is also important to seal any holes drilled for screws or fittings with epoxy before fitting to ensure the waterproof membrane is maintained.
Good luck with using solid polyester as you will add considerable weight and it will delaminate if it flex's.
The boat has no plywood anywhere. My plan is to make a fiberglass panel over a large piece of door/window glass. Waxing it first of course. The layup would be the cheaper polyester, which I already have two gallons which needs to be used. After a complete cure THEN use epoxy to bond to existing fiberglass deck with a three inch over lap. Then feather in with epoxy filler. Uh....Will white gelcoat stick to epoxy? I need to research that.
Your approach is Ok if you are not concerned about weight. A solid panel of Resin Chopped strand matt thick enough that it will not flex significantly will be fairly heavy compared to the method we used in the video.
Our aim was to restore a strong non flexing deck minimising weight. We achieved that and the Careel now has an extremely strong cockpit deck capable of handling three well built blokes moving vigoriously when we tack.
Gelcoat does not like sticking to Epoxy and is a lot of work to blend in. That is why we painted it with TREDGRIP Non Slip Water Based Paint as it sticks tenaciously and looks smart and has improved the Non slip quality especially when wet.
I'm at the point of looking at longevity. Meaning....comparing my life expectancy and my boat which is 65 years. Are you familiar with the Chevrolet Corvette? My boat was made by the same company that built the Corvette body. Research....MFG Niagara 14. The boat is nearly as old as me so we will most likely be going to the boneyard together. However....the plan is to use epoxy on the edges to secure the poly panel to the deck. The overlap between the old fiberglass and new poly panel will be around three inches. It's basically a hybrid repair job. Why this method? I have two gallons of polyester resin already. Also epoxy is quite expensive. Putting it around the edges saves money. Since there is no a single bit of wood in my boat there should be no delamination problems since epoxy bonds quite well to fiberglass.
Fine if you want to do a dodgy job, but why lead others astray with misleading comments?
Is there a layer of polyester reinforced mat under the existing plywood that you are removing?
Epoxy is only expensive if you use it like polyester which requires considerable layers to provide any rigidity and strength as it is an inferior product for gluing things together. Also I hope you are adding High Strength filler to the epoxy to bulk it up as this increases strength and makes it heaps more economical.
Fine if you want to do a dodgy job, but why lead others astray with misleading comments?
Is there a layer of polyester reinforced mat under the existing plywood that you are removing?
Epoxy is only expensive if you use it like polyester which requires considerable layers to provide any rigidity and strength as it is an inferior product for gluing things together. Also I hope you are adding High Strength filler to the epoxy to bulk it up as this increases strength and makes it heaps more economical
Hi I was wondering do you have to use the filler or is it just recommended for easier use?
Good morning Justin,
A very good question. The filler powder serves a couple of important roles as which are;
- Epoxy is much stronger as a glue when bulked up. Epoxy loves gap. Squeeze the excess epoxy out and you end up with a weak joint where there is not gap.
- It provides extra strength as there are different fillers for different applications. Sanding Filler is for low areas when fairing and it sands easily. Gluing & Filleting Filler is for general gluing and creating fillets and is the filler powder used in the video. It also takes some effort to sand. Then there is High Strength Filler for those jobs requiring ultimate strength.
- It also makes the Bote Cote Epoxy Resin more economical.
A few other factors on why you should use Bote Cote Epoxy Fillers;
- It is much safer to use as there is a dust suppressant added.
- It also has thixotropic agent added which helps it cling to a vertical surface when mixed to a thick peanut butter consistency.
- It also has a pigment added to give it a colour similar to timber.
- Customers also tell us it is easier to mix than straight Q-Cells or Colloidal Silica which take effort to mix in. Plus the silica dust floats for ages which is a suspected contributor of silicosis.
@@TheEpoxyGuruTipsTricks I appreciate the tips! Great video btw! I would love to use bote-Cote, unfortunately since I live in the US it wouldnt be economical to purchase. Thanks for all the help though.
Good Morning Justine,
Thanks for your positive feedback. Because all of our products are based on modern technology, they are not Dangerous Goods. That means all of our products can be sent as general goods by POST including overseas. We occasionally send goods to New Zealand and other areas. I have not had the honour of sending Bote Cote to the USA yet.
Except when my surfie son went to live in San Francisco and took a kit of Bote Cote for repairing his surfboards.
All the best and if using silica based fillers and the powder floats make sure you wear a respirator. If you can smell the epoxy, it is old technology. Make sure you wear a P2 respirator and disposable overalls and do not have children around when playing with old technology epoxies as it is no good for respiratory system and skin rashes.
Hey man I need to replace my boat's floor which materials do I need ,Please Thank You
Good Morning Javier,
Where are you located?
I need to ask some questions to provide you with an answer.
What material is you boat made from?
Why do you want to replace the floor?
What is the floor made from now?
What is under the floor?
We may need to ask some more questions down the track to make sure the advice provided puts you on the right track.
best to view @ 1.50 spd.
Good Morning Tinkers, If you want to learn something normal speed works well. If unable to make a positive comment I would prefer you use your negative comments on a brick wall.
Have a good Weekend.
@@TheEpoxyGuruTipsTricks he is not trying to be negative I think I agree with you about better to learn on normal but a lot of people myself included when I start something like this I want to be done as fast as possible.