I tested "synthetic rope" from Ebay & Amazon
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2022
- Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that. What do they mean and how much do they affect strength. We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon because a lot of us wonder how good that stuff is. Strength isn't the only factor you should base your purchase decisions on, the cheap stuff loses a ton of strength when you actually use it as seen in our other video at • Name-brand vs off-brand . It also wears out faster.
All the info and data is too much for a description, go see the blog at www.hownot2.com/post/dyneema-...
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We are testing 7 different SK qualities
01:33 How we are testing
03:18 Diameter comparisons
05:53 Difference of feel
07:50 SK99 Tests
09:30 SK EBAY Tests
12:15 SK AMAZON Tests
13:24 SK99 MAX Tests
15:51 SK75 Tests
17:27 Marlow SK78 Tests
19:21 Samson SK78 Tests
20:30 All Data Chart
You could weigh equal lengths of cheap vs expensive to see exactly how much more material the Chineema has. Compare the weight difference to the strength difference.
Exactly.
And after dragging all samples in a wake for 20hrs
Good point, usually as a climber you don’t care about 0.5mm more or less diameter but mass quickly adds up (especially when you carry around a few dozen meters of rope).
@jamese9283 purely based on the diameter measurements, there's about 56% more material in the Chineema than the SK99 (6mm vs 4.8mm). Weight of course would be a more accurate measurement.
That's what i do. The same reported diameter chinema weighs more than the dyneema.
I’ve been sail racing with the same Chineema ropes (with Chineema covers) for almost 3 years now and they’re so durable, cheap and reliable. We paid just USD1-2 per metre depending on the diameter (5-8mm) since we bought directly from a factory that manufactures Chineema on Taobao (Chinese version of Amazon). We sail in a 50-year-old 22-ft Dutch cruiser called the Pandora Mk I. We use Chineema ropes for all the halyards, backstay, boom vang, Cunningham, outhaul and mainsheet. They’ve never failed and I think that’s because the shock and heavy loading forces at work on our 22-ft keelboat even during heavy gusts in choppy seas doesn’t come close to the breaking point for the diameter of Chineema we are using, meaning we operate on a high safety factor. We did eventually buy the expensive racing Dyneema ropes from our yacht club’s boat shop when it was heavily discounted (USD10/m for the last rope bundle from a large roll) to serve as Genoa sheets, since tacking transitions are important. For our spinnaker pole uphaul and downhaul we use regular cruising ropes made from polyester. For our spinnaker sheets we use 6mm static climbing ropes made from polyester (USD0.25/m) because they are low stretch and the rope cover has a really nice pattern that offers amazing grip in wet and dry conditions 😆
On a 22' keelboat, you are probably using a much larger diameter for handling comfort than required for the expected loads.
I like your dedication to being very CONSISTENT in your testing methods.
And you explain all the other "factors"that you were NOT testing for.
Bravo.
You are as honest & interesting as the PROJECT FARM (for testing things).
You know what I'd like to see? Buy both the Samson and the chineema once a month for 5 years, and then test them all. I don't care if the brand name stuff breaks 1 or 2 kN under MBS, or even if the ebay special is stronger. I want to know I am buying a consistent product, and that I can trust THIS WEEK'S batch.
In the fishing world we often get "bad spools" of line at times that doesn't perform anywhere near where the line normally does. That goes for nylon monofilament, fluorocarbon, spectra, and dyneema.
I was thinking the same thing. Does the factory do consistent batch testing to make sure the product today is the same as the product a year from now.
The UHMW refers to the polymer lengths the longer the chain the stronger the polymer.
You probably have a ton of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) in your house. It's what milk jugs are made of.
Dynema is just the trade name that was first used as the brand name by DuPont similar to Kevlar vs aramid fiber. You could get non DuPont UHMWPE rope that could be as good just needs to be a reputable manufacturer that doesn't have access to the brand name.
Being a dyneema nerd as well, just want to reiterate that there are so many factors to consider, a biggy Ryan touched on, that being safety factor, i.e. if you need to support 5000 lbs, and you have a life safety setting needing a 5:1 safety factor, you need a material rated to 25000 lbs, that factor alone will create a super good enough standard. But then you need to consider wear and tear, there are plenty of use cases out there about how well an actual Dyneema product holds up over no name "UHMW" product when it comes to salt water immersion, chemical resistance, and environmental issues along with creep and constant tension etc.
In my usual long winded way, I'm just saying, consider all the factors when making you decision, not purely the static , one time pull number.
That is true, but
These test implies that the cheenyma are probably the same process as sk75 have, and I bet it will have the same mechanical properties for creep longevity etc, when it will be tested in these tests.
@@carmelhadar3495 I think the thing that scares me is the thought that the rolls of Amsteel or Marlow that don't pass QA end up rated skEbay and skAmazon, or someone running a ghost shift at the exact same factory says "We're low on polyethylene tonight, mix in a pallet of polyester to make quota."
I'm not sure the salt water and chemical resistance will make much of a difference since UHMW is designed to be chemical resistant. Dyneema publishes these test as well showing no chemical issues with most common and uncommon chemicals that it would be subjected to.
assets.ctfassets.net/q6qgec8ud5tq/3n0mW4BfpPxWFySesfcwOZ/ea0f9c49150c7700ab2d385b10e6d15a/CIS_YA101_Chemical_Resistance.pdf
@@carmelhadar3495 there is a lot of use cases provided by DSM (Dyneema) that say that is NOT the case. I have seen lots of explanations as to why a lot of the chineema will test great in straight pulls but do poorly in other conditions. How not to's video on soft shackles shows that it's super strong when pulled in a straight eye splice, but does much worse when tied into a shackle, where other name brands do well in the soft shackle format.
But as has been mentioned, it's all relative and context driven. If you have a chineema 3/8 or 1/2 winch line, and you use your winch once or twice a year, probably super good enough. If you are offroad a lot and using your winch a ton, may want to consider going Amsteel or SK99
@@DarkSoulBaja It may also matter how much weather exposure the winchline sees over the course of that year, just spooled onto the winch.
I specifically built a front-mount receiver so that I can remove my winch and store it out of the elements when I'm not out wheeling. I see no reason to drag the extra weight around and to leave the winch and line out for exposure if I'm not realistically going to use it.
As far as safety-factor goes though, I don't think that any enthusiast/consumer winches have really ever respected safety-factor. Winch lines seem to be applied to winches basically at their breaking-strength. Since consumer winches are not lifting-devices this may explain why they can get away with putting a 12,000# line on a 12,000# winch motor. Tow trucks, cranes, rotator trucks seem to actually try ot size their lines for proper safety-factor, and those lines are much, much heavier and larger diameter than the stuff that one may throw onto a personal off-road rig.
One of the characteristics I've noticed with inexpensive imported hardware (think bolts and nuts) is that they're often actually stronger than higher quality hardware. The higher quality stuff is typically engineered to the number itself, not simply to be stronger than the number. Sometimes the engineer will actually want something to shear or fail at a certain threshold as an intended point of controlled failure, and that means high quality parts whose characteristics are quantified both for withstanding and for failing. When the bolt merely has to be stronger than a certain yield then that's easy, but making it exactly as strong as that yield is hard.
For my own application an imported line that appears to meet the minimum that is described is probably adequate, even moreso if I choose a product whose published minimum is much higher. With a 12,000# winch I'm inclined to go with a minimum of a 24,000# line and possibly even higher yet, especially if the higher-rated but less expensive line is still cheaper than the quality line that just meets its numbers and is expensive. If I end up needing to double-up or triple-up for mechanical advantage, I may be able to do that for the same money as if I buy the expensive line that's just rated to the 12,000#.
Thank you! This data is amazing. Also, thanks for putting all the results on one screen at the end. Very helpful.
Been using 3/8 chineema from eBay on my 12,000 lb winch for about 2 years. Winched many vehicles and trees in all conditions (mud, snow, sand, rain) and temps from -10°f to 120°f. No complaints and minimal wear.
Thanks Ryan and friends!
I love the pinging noise when the ziptie tags break XD
I'm sure you know why you get the "DNA" look when a rope breaks, but in case you don't here is why: Before the rope breaks, the one strand that eventually remains is not straight. It is part of the braid. When everything else breaks, the one strand becomes straight and in the proecess deforms everything else. BTW: Very interesting results!
Great content!
Thanks for your testing. I'm using 1/4" and 3/8" Amazon to replace the straps on my boat trailer's winches. This is so I can easily add a block and double my pull if necessary. I also have a background in industrial high-angle rescue. Once again, thanks!
Love the twang off that shackle shifting!
Really interesting video, Can you add Vectran, kevlar and Zylon? It would be interesting to divide by the cross-sectional area and see how the fibre strength compares.
I like to see the results for the 3/8" and 1/2" rope. Great test/study thank you.
I'd be very interested to see what happens if you lined each of those up on the ground outside, then tested again after a few months exposure to the elements.
Well what really matters is what your using the rope for. For most uses of soft shackles and even most rigging any Dyneema line is way stronger then needed and most loads will be way below the breaking strength. The real issue is Creep not breaking. If your using Dyneema for standing rigging it is under load 24/7 360 but not under anything approaching it’s breaking strength but creep is a problem if you select your size based on breaking strength and not creep you will spend a lot of time retuning your rig and you may need to replace the rigging sooner. My point is which Dyneema you buy really depends on what your using it for. If your making soft shackles to say attach sheets (made with double braid non Dyneema line) to your sails the Dyneema even cheap stuff will be stronger then the line your attaching so the shackle will be plenty strong enough to do the job so go ahead buy a roll of the cheap stuff and use it where maximum strength isn’t a issue.
Not sure why you didn't even mention the option of buying the cheaper stuff a size bigger. Depends on your application if it is even possible, or better, or worse, to use a size bigger, but if you want more wear and cut resistance the go-to advice is to use a thicker rope, not a more expensive one.
As usual, a great post. Thank you.👍👍
I only realized it after you said the UHMWPE. That is what our harness straps are made of. Some of them.
I put Chineema "Amazon variety" 3/8" on my 8000lb Warn 8274 winch a few years ago and it's been good enough so far. I use it more often than most winches get used, pulling trees over and bushes out of the ground. It's held up to motor stall tension in 1:1 and 2:1 many times. I did resplice it with a straight bury and good thimble when I got it since the supplied brummel splice with cheapie thimble so not good to go. For the abuse it gets, the cost savings were worth it.
Been using 3/8 chineema from eBay on my 12,000 lb winch for about 2 years. Winched many vehicles and trees in all conditions and temps from -10°f to 120°f. No complaints and minimal wear.
I would like to see the difference between the types of dyneema in a cyclical loading situation.
Up to 10kN, down to zero, up to 10, repeat a few times, then max pull.
You could also add a big ruler (scale) to the back wall of the slacksnap and we could see the amount of stretch.
Just a suggestion from a nerd; integrating some automation in the form of a microcontroller could really speed up your testing and add a lot to the consistency of your testing. You could program a microcontroller to control the hydraulic cylinder and record all of your values for you to an excel sheet.
I’d love a cyclic loading machine for a lot of stuff. I would test if splices come undone if not sewn with thread to hold it.
@@HowNOT2 I picked up some really cheap 4mm ($1,5/m "100% dyneema") at the local sail shop. Rated at 16 kN. Was thinking of replacing the 3mm wire jumper stays on my small sailboat. The "dyneema" looks a lot like the one bought on Amazon.
Would be super interesting to see how it resist streching..
You should do a running tally of how much money the stuff you have broken costs, like rose anvil and the shoes/boots. It’s interesting to see
That's a word I never expected to hear after my capstone project, "Creep". Literally last class before graduation in my undergrad of Mechanical Engineering and was tasked with what causes tooth brushes to fray out over time and essentially doing a thesis of the understanding of Creep. Literally nothing was published about the Creep in plastics and I had to try and figure out what the frack was happening, spring 2020. I ran FEA on the plastic bristles in Solidworks on my gaming PC with a 2070 super and not my school laptop which was already beefy, and even then it struggled. We didn't even get assigned the project until March and we graduated in late May. But from the little time I spent trying to test and understand the problem it is that the molecules were untangling or something like that.
Hi Ryan! Completely off the Dyneema Topic, but a suggestion maybe, as I haven't found any content on your website. Have you ever considered testing out Via-Ferrata equipment? Namely the Via-Ferrata Sets. Some interesting webbing tearing results may come out of that and also KN ratings on those things are crazy..... 6KN to webbing to start rip, 12KN to fail completely, 15KN Lanyards and K-Carbinessomewhere between 22 and 30KN....
It was just a wild idea I had the other night, but why the Carabines need to be that strong as the whole thing would collapse at 1/2 of the max shockload.....? And since you have the fall tower now :)
Anyway, thank you for making the fantastic content!! :)
Comes down to trust.
The bigger brands advertise standards we've come to expect with information we've come to interpret in different ways depending on the way we use the product. They also come with certain guarantees.
A lot of textile companies based in the UK back in the day, closed up and/or sold their looms to companies across Asia.
They are still used for production of the same product. Only now marked "made in e.g. China".
So its likely the case that the processes used to produce the fibres are the same. The weaving machines are the same. The treatments are the same.
However all textiles go through QA and are graded by quality.
If we aren't told the grade of what we are using, or told the other data and have no guarantees... even if its the same damn thing, were not going to trust it.
You also have to consider the whole "Average bloke from the USA doesn't trust China one bit regardless" thing. So even if the Chineema had all that data with associated guarantees, I doubt most US customers would trust it anyway and buy AMsteel or SK99 MaxPatriot or SK101 SuperMaxTrump or whatever even if when tested it was proven to be exactly the same product from the same factory.
Because no chicom vendor has ever cut corners or lied about a product origin or doctored spec sheet data? I only distrust them because they lie constantly about their corporate structures (what company actually makes this???), they lie in their technical documentation, lie about their certifications and accreditation, and lie about adhering to standards like ASME, ASTM, ISO, DIN, UL, CE etc. Other than those gaping breaches of trust I'm sure it's all great.
I've never played with dyneema, but you outlined earlier that each SK variant had different/unique properties. I wonder if those properties would make them more or less amenable to the same splicing/tapering techniques. Seems like SK78 broke at taper more than others, which made me wonder if a different taper approach may be required. No idea, just enjoy a good hypothesis. Cool video
If I would like to send you some stuff to test in the military/tactical category where would I be able to get in touch?? Thank you!
Nice video! would be interesting to see dyneema breaking at the drop tower, would them still left 1 strend from the 12 still there hanging?
Thanks!
The Project Farm of Personal Protection Equipment 😁
Well 6mm cheap dyneema might be stronger than 5mm,
Makes sense.
Still wouldn't trust the Amazon shop to keep the same quality over time
Thought about comparing static and dynamic climbing ropes from Amazon as well? Really liked the video about the biners from Amazon. Curious about the ropes as well.
I'd love to see this as well. The test results for Chinese carabiners were quite surprising.
As a tower climber, I'm really interested to see that gorgeous drop tower pumping out shock tests. =p
@how2knot there is a lot of discussion online about zing it and lash it being used for hammock whoopie slings to save extra weight. It’s it possible to test this really small 1.75 and 2 mm dyneema break strength? Is it really is 500lbs??!! Thanks for the hard work.
8:30 cool how it breaks right in the middle
you could melt the mystery plastic to see if it melts at the same temperature you would expect from UHMWPE? Use a temperature controlled soldering iron to set the tempepratures? Not to mention the smell of the plastic melting/burning probably different for different plastics
Can you do a test of double-braid dyneema core/polyester/nylon sheath. It's popular in boating and no doubt will make it's way into climbing. it's really light and strong.
I'm using some 6mm gleistein carabic color with triple fishermans knots to carabiners as per the retailers instructions, and just like to see if it's as good as advertised or whether the sheath will pull off like the ney-sayers tell me.
"Best" depends on how much "give" is required for the dynamism of the system, stretch (elasticity) sometimes stands in for "stronger" (UTS) - energy absorption is a whole other thing to "strength".
very informative videos. Do you have one that races dyneema vs spectra vs Q40+ for static stretch elongation. I'm trying to find the lightest dyneema or other that has the lowest stretch under load. Im struggling to find the specs for all of them. My money is on dyneema SK99 3mm.
What is the name of the load testing software you are using to show the tension from your load cell?
Weight or bulk is not an issue for me. Handling is. I have Dyneema-ish (UHMWPE) cords from 0.8mm to 5/16th inch. I require *brand names* for soft shackles and sewing/whipping materials.
On hand are 1/8" or equivalent Amsteel Blue cords that are not comfortable in the hand for hauling -- though plenty strong.
After watching this I have opted for 6mm (1/4") chineema rope for hammocks because my hands won't get sore working with any rope or knots in this diameter. This is way stronger than required to suspend my burgeoning girth while in tension.
*Note that I calculate that a line in tension pulled nearly flat endures about six times the weight it supports* -- divided by 2 for knots -- and 50ft. of Chineema at less than 25 bucks seems about right.
I'd also wonder how consistent the eBay/Amazon options are -3 tests is good for backyard science, but i think id rather have something which i know meets certain standards!
The load(stress) rate is really important, due to how materials deform, not only polymeric ropes. Unless there is a published international standard, manufacturers could publish the stress rate under which they tested.
Since you are not certifying, or anything of that nature, using the same stress rate for all you tests is SuperGoodEnough.
Hey, even rock might deform in weird ways if the rate is low enough.
In the end, it looks as if everything ir really visco-elastic (strength is rate dependent).
SHALL BE RELEASE
I wanna know the break strength of those single strands. Worse case scenario, if it somehow snapped on a hard fall, is that one strand going to support a couple hundred pounds?
another point of note is that the process and materials used in the majority of Chinese manufacturing change due to supply and cost. The point is that the goods are produced without propper governance (externally rated by a trusted International body) and therefore are inconsistent.
I am having trouble figuring out what kind of twine to use for the lock stitching as shown at around 2:21. Can you share a more detailed spec or a link to a product that works? Thank you.
Does nylon eye thimbles provides any protection for the dyneema eye?
Hello I use 3/8 Amsteel on a flatbed , we constantly are winching in and out. Wouod the 75 be better . What would you suggest . Ty
They probably test the strength with tensionless hitch style ends when rating it. Or that is what I would assume atleast.
So what you’re saying is we should buy the eBay stuff? Gotcha! 👍🏼😁😉
I would love to see whoopie slings (for hammocks) pulled to breaking. I see a lot of people (including myself now) using the 1/8 amsteel for this and wonder how much the sling and eyes are cutting from the total breaking strength.
3.2mm (1/8) Chineema is super good enough for hammock suspension where you’re not hanging over a precipice. Enough people use 2.4 (3/32)…
"Chinema factories" lool 😂
I also wonder SK78 and SK99 have LESS creep and have been Heat treated to Reduce stretch SO that makes one wonder Pull both to say to 350lbs tension with a tension gauge and leave them then in a day see which one is now slack and which one held that tension. THis is the type of static load a sail boats standing rigging is subject to. AmSteel and Simpson rope is making their ropes for that type of Rig tension and then withstand the increased loads as wind load tensions the rigging more. The loads are probably well below the breaking strengths but Creep will make for a loose rig and a loose rig makes for poor sail trim. (A forstay needs to be tight to keep sag on the sail low. how much creep will effect how often you have to retune the rig. (Back stay tension and shrouds also keep your mast straight and the whole rig in tune. so if you sized your line right breaking is not the biggest problem its Creep or stretch. as the loads are well below the breaking strength But no one wants to have to keep tighting their rig all the time.
Can an Amazon ATV winch synthetic rope be used on a sailboat for a furler line or inner forestay?
I wonder if the new result from the sample that broke like polyester, was actually polyester...
It'll be cool to get smarter every day to bring their high speed camera over and see how the strands were actually breaking.
Does sleeving an eye to avoid "shackle abrasion" have any effect pro or con on eye breakage? Screw pin shackles can get nicked and scratched in use (unlike the finely polished screw pins I'm sure you used in testing.....). I have sleeved my eyes with similar ID hollow nylon webbing to lessen eye abrasion but don't know if I'm helping or hurting performance. I've never broken any dyneema rope.
Nevermind, just viewed your soft shackle video. I like the idea of seeing where abrasion is starting before it shows up on my rope.
Lets break the Chem book. Dyneema is a polyethylene (cheap generic plastic if 100 iterations) with a Ultra high long chain, hence the name UHMPE (Ultra High Molecular Poly-Ethylene), from my memory it is about 100000 ethylene iterations long (the molecule is about 14 microns long IMHO). This is a general number and can and does vary a lot depending on how much the producer can make it. I expect the best quality to be quite above 100000 iterations and the others to be below it.
Now this does not really affect Ultimate strength in a one time destruction pull, but it does affect creep by a lot because the molecule is soo slippery and is held only by the Wan der Waals forces between molecules where more surface contact is better.
Therefore to mediate the fact that the polyethylene is probably not as long as the quality ones they heat treat it to weld the strands and mitigate creep via less fibrous strands.
The quality is complicated to test but creep is more or less easy but time consuming.
As for what id like to see; dyneema is famous for its bending fatigue performance; but id like to see how that works out in an apples to apples test as well. I guess that really requires some custom testing machinery since you probably dont want to be cycling this stuff over a pin a million times yourself...
I wonder how strong those single strands that sometimes remain are.
Could they be considered as a kind of super emergency backup, after the main line breaks because of the shock load?
From what I have watched, 4kn is a high shock load for 1 person. So 6 people for a 24kn shock load. Don't know if 1 strand will hold 6, do know I don't want to be 1 of 6.
I should be sponsored by Samson. I'll happily use some sk78
Ebay rope: not only longevity and creep over time are important but consistency of batches of the product. You may have gotten a good batch to give 25 to 28 KN but what about 6 months or a year from now? Is there consistent batch testing at the factory to make sure the product is the same today and 6 months from now? No way to find out...
I use the cheap stuff every day several times a day 5 days a week on a logging truck. My 3/8 rope has been working like this for 2 years without a breakage. But its starting to look like its life is becoming limited. I dont see any reason to go with more expensive stuff. I pay around 60 dollars for a hundred feet. Ill stay with the cheap stuff.
Same...I move buildings and over the years, NO rope survives more than 12 months of rough use so I appreciate $60 Chineema when our stock $300 Warn Gold Laced Rope inevitably breaks from abuse. 5/8" Chain wins hands down for durability.
Marlow will like tell you to make a longer taper....
I always wondered how strong the single strand left after breaking is...
dang, you didn't want to use the most essential formulation of dyneema, the DM20?
There is an easy way shrink the ends of those ropes to get them to feed through a hole. Use heat shrink tubing and it will act like a shoelace aglet.
That leaves an end bigger than the minimum diameter of the cordage, though.
Try it... it absolutely does not. It is like a whipped end, but easier to do.@@nikolaihedler8883
Grrrr, I'm angry at reality! Change it now please! I want to see bigger numbers!
(Lovely video mate, keep it up! 🤣)
The gray rope looks like the green parachute cord you can get from a military surplus store.
Ams Steel rope is paracord on steroids
How to use hay bale strings to make soft shackles. I seen some old soft shackles braided together with bailing string
I use baling string for many things, but bear in mind it is Designed to biodegrade.
I wonder if that single remaining strand is a result of that same strand breaking somewhere in the line. Then, a fraction of a second later, that one strand no longer contributes strength and the remaining strands fail nearly simultaneously.
this makes a lot of sense. After it breaks, are the remaining strands still under tension? If they are slack, they are probably broken and slipped. If they are tight, another possibility is that not every strand is exactly the same length in a given section of rope and do not carry exactly the same load
There's a ping sound near the end of some of those tests
Did you do more than 3 tests on these to find the avg breaking strength? From your numbers I got 38.34 instead of 37.36 for the 5mm sk99 max…
The average listed in Ryan's charts is from the manufacturer, not the average of his test results
Thanks
Didn’t know how to message you on a test idea/request, so here I am on your most recent video. Idea for testing flat overhand vs flat 8 vs 8 bend for joining two ropes of equal size (in a rope rescue setting but that doesn’t really matter).
My Authority Having Jurisdiction has an affinity for figure 8 knots and I know they have their place.. however I’ve started using their page to either confirm/refute their policy on ‘best practice’. This is one I’m having trouble convincing them on, and would love to see! Could I send you a section of rope or just donate if you ever decide to break such knots?
If you do some searching you may be able to find test results for those knots. I believe Ryan did break an inline figure 8 bend (flemish bend) in another video with lots of bends, I have seen various test results that show it as holding 60-70% of rope strength. The flat overhand bend has been tested a lot, and it shows results of 33-50% of rope strength depending on the cordage used. I haven't seen much on the flat figure 8 bend, but I have managed to make it capsize on some ropes just pulling by hand, so I think it is not useful for much. I think overtheedgerescue.com has some good knot test papers.
Dang I missed that video, I’ll have to watch it. Thanks
Hi friends, I’m trying to sketch out a syllabus for a college-level class I want to teach.
Honestly, this is comment is the first time I’ve every tried to describe the class…
101: Knots for Filmmakers
Day 1: Super Good Enough: Proper safety on Film Sets. Topics of discussion include: Soft vs. Hard shackles and their applications.
Anyone care to suggest a better, more interesting name for the class I’m designing?
Thanks in advance!
Evan
Call it the class "That's Knot how you do it"...
how do you drill fractions of milimeter ? some special drill bits or some technique ?
You can buy tiny micro drills which come in fractions of a millimeter, I've got a set with drills as small as 0,3 mm. There's definitely a special technique involved in their use, drilling with them while held in a hand drill or rotary tool is absolutely out of the question as they would instantly break. Instead you have to use them in either a lathe or a milling machine, making sure to drill very slowely and use enough lubricant/coolant.
Maybe a naive question, but how come these ropes have different colours? I was once told that dyneema or HMPE could not be coloured because it's so slick? At least that's what I have observed woth climbing slings, ultralight backpacks and paragliding gear.
I was also wondering about that
You can definitely color Dyneema. the problem is as soon as you stress it/where it it will Discolorat and look bad like if it was black it will go light grey etc.
That is a myth floating around climbing communities for sewn slings. I’m researching why they say that and figuring out the intention of what they originally meant when that rumor was started.
I will admit, I bought the ebay winch line , I believe it was like 18 bucks , I have had it on my 4500 lb winch for 5 years now and I pull 14 foot logs out the woods with it almost daily for work and it's yet to break I have been pleased with it , would I trust it on my trail rig ? No! I have what ever synthetic line came with the warn winch on the off road truck
If you wanna measure material without needing diameter holes then just hot a given length and measure the weight
I read Dyneema is supposed to be as strong as steel rope for the same diameter. I think that'd make an interesting test.
They are about the same. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimate_tensile_strength
Diameter or weight?
what i got out of this video: if you're not using this as a life critical device its probably fine, but your life/serious injury is probably worth paying the 2x cost for the real thing.
Did you mean to say a metric 3/4 inch radius?
I think you meant 3/8 radius. Diameter would be 3/4
I take a drink every time you say supple.
2:00 You say the bend radius is 3/4 inch but show a diameter of 3/4 inch, a 3/8ths radius.
wet against dry and salt water soaked would be good!
oh and dirt encrusted!
Think if youre holding down an oil rig at sea the rope will be about 20 times thicker..
20kn is 4500 lbs (google). A heavy climber probably weights 225lb. That is less than 5% of the load carrying capacity of all the ropes you've tested. 5%! As such, it doesn't make any sense to worry about the load carrying capacity of these ropes. Instead, we should focus more on how well the ropes survive the environment. Things such as sun exposure, salt, moisture, and etc. and how these factors causes deterioration. The invisible deterioration that leads to sudden catastrophic failure is the worst (i.e. everything looks fine but suddenly fails). Unfortunately we don't have objective data on this.
A side note, at the risk of stating the obvious, I think all the ropes performed about the same in your test is because these are all made according to the same chemical formula. As such, its all mostly the same stuff. Well, minus the branding!
After watching your video, I will definitely buy the cheap stuff. I'd be happy to replace them more often when I notice deterioration.
This video test forces involved in falling czcams.com/video/Bd5hT1Vqwok/video.html. Falling can generate force only approximately 25% of the load capacity of all the ropes tested.
As someone that pulls my atv out of the mud once a year at best, I appreciate the cheap lines from China. But I'm not putting my life on the line if it breaks. You only get one life and you get to decide how much it's worth.
The word is 'oval' , between flat and round
I love Chyneema! It’s the winner in my broke ass book! :)
Thank you for these tests.
Any of the real name brands will work for what I'm using it for, even the China ones, but China is know for inconsistency.
I prefer the cheap stuff
So I guess I will buy all my life supporting equipment from shady ebay sellers, got it.
Moo moo moo for the algorithm
"rubber ruler" 🤣🤣
You just proved that "trade name" isn't always best even though you try to make out it is. I have seen the same happen with archery arrows and broadheads that are three times the money but finish behind the China products..................not always but sometimes. So your a trade name buyer even though the cheaper stuff proves to be better. Really bad form buddy, really bad. I like to buy local but not when they are trying to rip you off...................but these big local companies love your kind.
i dont understand your average