CAMERA TRICK for SHARPER, Well Exposed HANDHELD PHOTOS!
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- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
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This week I hike to a hidden Chapel in search of landscape photos, during the video I share a great tip to get well-exposed, sharp photos when shooting handheld photography.
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#photography #photographytips #sharpphotos
00:00 camera trick intro
00:55 camera settings for sharp photos
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I've been using auto-ISO for years now - and I've been a raw-only shooter for at least a decade. The thing to beware in auto-ISO is small sections that are much brighter than everything else - but you still want some detail in those sections. Auto-ISO means 'set ISO based on current exposure settings', so if the exposure system thinks your shot is too dark, those smaller brighter spots will be blown out (not recoverable in post). More of an issue in low light than what's in the video above.
Also, as a zone-system shooter, I often use the camera as a spot meter, so I reframe a lot. I try to remember that the exposure system (and so ISO if I have that on auto) will be based on the spot the camera is currently pointing at. Holding the exposure-lock button solves this, but it's easier to just go into full manual. For me, it's often a matter of what's easier.
Nice video Ian. I've been shooting for over 40 years but still learning. Thanks to videos like yours we can can still glean snippets of information that better our work. Thanks.
Thanks Geoff 🙏👍
Geoff, me thinks You are quite the Photographer based on your comment and attitude, juss sayin. 👍😊
Haha - at 3:50 CZcams's auto subtitles came up with 'most modern deer slaughter mirrorless cameras' on my computer. Just started watching your videos and really enjoying them. Learning lots!
🤣🤣 That's hilarious. thanks for watching buddy 👍👍
Pentax has a TVa Mode just for that - it took quite a long time for me as a old style anlaog guy to figure that out and it is especially cool for fast moving object like birds and bats, where you additionally turn of AF cause of the speed and maybe use catch-in-focus
Always look forward to your videos. Great shots and fantastic advice. Well done!
Much appreciated! 👍🙏
Great video Ian thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍😊
Fantastic video of the lovely Pembrokeshire coast Ian, I really enjoyed this and I`ll be watching this one again.
Glad you enjoyed it 😊👍👍
I so wish I could loose myself for hours 😢 in shooting for myself, life gets in the way …
I just walk in my yard and shoot if I can’t get away for a longer shoot. I find it lees me learning and improving.
It does suck being an adult and work getting in the way. As an over the road truck driver I make the best of it by taking photos out of my windshield. I aim in general direction and click ALOT and hope for the best. Some are blurry, some focus on splattered bugs and some come out great, but sometimes crooked. I mostly take pics for reference material to draw and paint, so I'm not going for pro level photography. The camera I use for this is quite grimy now since my hands can get dirty and greasy from truck stuff with no sink in sight to wash hands with.
Very useful information
Thank you
Very nicely delivered this Ian. Thank you.
Very welcome 👍👍
That’s an excellent point, I hadn’t thought of using my camera that way. I’m used to aperture mode, but I hadn’t focused much on shutter speed yet. Great way to ease into it some!!☺️
Great videography Ian. And as for your stills, wow. That chapel is extraordinary coming out of the rock like that✌️
Glad you enjoyed it 😊🙏
What a top location, seascapes are among my favourite places to get lost with my camera. I honestly think the mindset that “landscape” is tripod territory needs revisiting, sure for long exposures, long ND shots, focus bracketing but they are so limiting when it comes to moving about a scene, faffing about and missing images in fast changing light. As you say Ian modern cameras really lower the need for a tripod and I am using mine a heck of a lot less than I was a decade ago. 😀 cheers from NZ
Thanks buddy, totally agree 👍👍
Love Pembrokeshire. Stunning landscape without hoards of people (compared to Devon and Cornwall). The Coastal Path is a must exploration over many months or years.
So true, its such a stunning part of the world 👍👍
Lovely work, Ian
Many thanks! 🙏🙏
I’m new to your channel and relatively new to photography. Just wanted to say I’m really enjoying it and thank you for sharing your tips and wonderful photography 🙏📷
Beautiful scenery! This inspires me to want to go out and shoot soon! I have been so busy with other types of photography, mainly events and sports, that I have not taken the time to go out and do landscapes lately, but I love it and think it is so therapeutic! I shoot in full manual mode and often auto iso to get the right exposure, paying close attention to what my camera is auto-adjusting the iso at, and will make small adjustments to my other settings, sometimes just the exposure compensation, so it doesn't go too high in certain situations. On certain occasions, depending on what I'm shooting, I will limit my auto iso to a certain amount so that my camera won't take it too high. Thanks for sharing your photo adventure with us, it was truly inspiring. Now I think I'll sit down and start planning a trip up north to Pictured Rocks.
Thanks so much Diane, i'm glad it has inspired you to go out and shoot some landscapes 👍😊
🙋🏻♂️🇪🇦 No tengo palabras. Gracias 🤗🤗
Nice video Ian. Love the cliff/triangle sea stacks image. Very geometric. I use your settings for wildlife also. I save cam settings to a custom shooting mode (I guess all makes of cam have a version of this). Then when I need to grab my cam in a hurry I just stab that mode and settings are ready to go. No scratching head when the heat is on
Same here buddy, makes it so much quicker to get shooting. Thanks for watching 🙏🙏👍
GREAT INFO for us Manual Mode camera dudes! :)
Thanks buddy 👍👍👍
I do a lot of seascape photography, and you have to be careful with Auto ISO. The main issue you’d run into with Auto ISO for seascapes are the changing exposure with shore/tide pool white water and the amount of it in your composition.
yeah, protecting those highlights can be a challenge 👍👍
@@ian_worth Am I right in thinking the exposure compensation and histogram work OK with auto ISO enabled in the RX10 iv. If so, I guess that would be the simple way to keep the highlights right.
@@ColinMill1 Seems to me bracketing is a possible solution as you can get exposures that salvage your highlights and merge them later.
@@jg1007 Good point. If you can set up auto exposure bracketing in burst mode it would be perfect.
That's what exposure compensation is for. With mirrorless cameras you have all the tools right in your viewfinder. Just watch the histogram and exposure simulation. Use compensation as needed. Worse case, use HDR, or better yet, come back in the evening or morning when the light isn't so harsh.
Love Pembrokeshire. Snapped those cliffs and rocks a few times. St Govans is a beautiful place
Sure is Tony, thanks for watching 👍👍
Wow what a great tip. And great to hear shooting handheld allows you to be more adaptable compared to having the camera on a tripod. That's really made my day. God, I wish I was a pro like you. And what great shots.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated 👍👍
Absolutely fantastic. Brilliant. Loved the Moon shot. And the Chapel was great. I know its not a history channel but a little bit of why a Chapel was there would have been nice. Now I have to go to Wikipedia.
But camera information and the photos were exceptional. Thumbs up all the way...
Excellent video! I am a 100% manual shooter, but I’ll give this a try! Thanks for taking me along!
Thanks for watching 👍👍
Great video Ian. First time viewer here. Cheers from Texas. I have played around with auto ISO and like the results. I plan to use it more in the future. I shoot with a Canon R5. Oh, and I would have taken that shot of the sea stack outside that small window, with the window frame blacked out in silhouette 🙂
Enjoyable !!!!!!! ThankYou :) :) :)
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🙏
Nice work, what metering do you tend to use for landscapes like this?
Great video! I really appreciate the auto ISO variables. Sweet photos by the way!!! Got any Whale watching from a boat recommendations?
Thanks bill, I haven't seen whales from the coast of Pembrokeshire yet, plenty of Dolphins, Porpoise and seals though 👍👍
I think it makes more sense to put in Aperture mode, leave ISO sensitivity off, and control the shutter speed by pushing ISO up or down. Then exposure compensation actually increases or decreases the light. For waterfalls and such, just go to Shutter mode. This gives you two controls that don't impact each other and usually you only just use one.
This system has three controls, aperture, shutter and EC, and they do impact each other.
You can tell auto iso you want no slower than 1/x seconds? This is my approach, or is it completely wrong?
@@thepirateshootsidk how many cameras that’s on. Like I upgraded from an a7ii to an a7iii in part for that feature
With these recent cameras I’m very comfortable using auto-iso for most of the time. For travel photography and street it’s pretty much auto iso to 1600 or 3200 and minimum shutter speed or 125. Then i just control the aperture. For landscape it’s auto-iso to 800 if hand held and I just control again the aperture and make sure the speed is at least double the focal length. On tripod depending on the situation but manual is the best way to go for me at least. Cheers
Thank you for this video - really helpful and a great watch. I have been working on my digital photography for about a year now and whilst I 'get' and have a good feel for aperture and shutter speed settings, I do feel a lot less confident in determining what ISO to use in different situations. Looking forward to trying this out!
Hi Richard. I would say, as a general rule of thumb, use the lowest ISO that your chosen shutter speed and aperture will permit. Unlike those two settings, ISO has no 'creative' input to offer - or certainly none that I can think of 😊 As such, the technique Ian is speaking about in this video should work well for you.
@@davidf6326 Thank you David. It certainly seems to be working for me. Appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Great video. I shoot Olympus cameras which have built-in stabilization that provide up to 7 stops of shake reduction, which climbs to 7.5 stops with certain stabilized lenses. It means I can often leave my tripod behind. BTW ... I love the CZcams closed captioning which transcribed "modern DSLR" to "modern deer Slaughter". 🤣
Great tip, thanks very much. Would you mind letting me know which camera bag you were carrying please?
its the lowepro photo sport pro 👍👍
Stick a good quality variable ND on the front. Turn your exposure triangle into an "exposure square"! If I'm shooting at, say, a 1/4 sec and f/11 I normally find the biggest problem at all times except very early or very late in the day, is getting the ISO low enough. The ND helps.
Yeah, that's a good tip Mark 👍👍
Great video learned some cool tricks which I'm gonna play with. I'm interested in knowing which brand is your camera bag, couldn't help notice the padding which for me is important when carrying large amounts of gear gotta love a bit of comfort! Couldn't find link in your gear guide!
Thanks Gordon, its the lowepro photo sport pro 👍👍
Nice video. Im a relative beginner to photography but have been using Manual + Auto ISO ever since I got myself of of full Auto. Getting to grips with camera shake makes it a must for me to control shutter speed. Anyway, thanks very much, great video
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for watching 😊👍
Great video Ian, subscribed. What sort of ND filter do you use for the daytime longer exposure water shots on a telephoto lens (e.g. 70-300mm). 10-stop or lower?
Thanks buddy, depends on the light and the desired affect, either the 3 - 6 or 10 stop filters can work well 👍👍
Excellent video, have liked and subscribed 👍🏼
Just out of interest I was wondering what bag you are using? Currently searching for a new bag and liked the look of yours.
Thanks for the sub! 🙏 It's the lowe pro photo sport pro 👍👍
As standard the xh2 does not allow exposure comp in manual mode when in auto iso… there is a way but have to set a custom button to custom function and when pressed it allows exp comp. The top option in the custom button (camera at studio can’t remember the name) since I don’t do video I set this to the record button
That's exactly what i did for this video. The record button set to exposure compensation and then it will toggle the front dial between that and the shutter speed, it works well 👍👍
Thanks for sharing the great advice. Simply love the image at 5:37. I have to ask since you have a lot more input with fujifilm than that we do, can you please tell them to allow us to set iso to a command dial. I love the XH-2 but this is so frustrating. Most of fuji lenses have aperture rings but if we want to manually control the aperture with the lens ring we have a dead dial on the camera that is functionless. I don't understand why fuji programed the camera like this. It makes absolutely no sense. Even Sony will allow you to take full manual control and put iso on a command dial. Thank you Ian.
Totally agree, Paul. it would be easy to map the iso to the dial, maybe they will do this in a firmware update at some point. I use my up and down buttons on the d-pad to change iso up or down 👍
I use the update page all the time, I just have the browser translate it for me - easy workaround, I guess. Works fine for Chrome and Edge.
I shoot hdr frequently hand held and I have essential tremor thanks to my British ancestry. I’m able to do this by use of a camera strap. I pull it tight and if I can, I lean on something. I’m rock steady this way.
So well produced. Edited so well, integrating B roll. How can you have a photo session without the video effort taking away from that, or needing to plan out shots?
Just browsing thru. Even I can see this and I am non-videographer.
PS Nikon user. I try similar same approach with the DSLR for city pics. Manual A, S, with bracketing and ISO range; a must to set it tightly and carefully, or else the camera goes off the deep end and blows out or under exposes all.
Many thanks 🙏🙏
Interesting video Ian, thank you. Not sure if 140mm APS-C equates to 200mm FF though 🤔
With the Fuji, the crop is 1.5x, so 210mm … pretty close to a 200mm on full frame
Thanks Ian. Great Video. What is the camera bag you are using?
czcams.com/video/Q0KujP32fyY/video.html (2:40)
It's the lowe pro photo sport pro 👍
Thanks
Ian, which brand back pack are you using in this video?
Its by lowepro - you can check it out here - www.iworthphotos.com/my-gear
In addition to simply using one of three customized auto iso settings, the Fujifilm cameras for the most part allow bracketing the iso in Drive settings of the menu with 1/3, 2/3 or 1 full stop over and under in a single press of the shutter.
Then you can select the best exposure and if desired in post combine the three images for HDR.
I'm not a Fuji user, but it appears that the ISO bracketing cannot be done with RAW files. That would suggest it's simulated during in-camera processing rather than being achieved by amplification of the sensor signal - which, if I understand it correctly, is the way normal ISO adjustment works. In other words, the ISO hasn't actually changed.
In a sense then, it's similar to the Nikon's Active-D, digital zooming etc. in that it's a digital post-processing technique. As such, I would have thought it would be better to take a single RAW image - which retains more data - and do the post-processing in Lightroom (or similar), where one has more control over the output. Of course, you could also do an actual multi-exposure HDR set, but I appreciate why that might give questionable results with a constantly moving subject like a seascape.
@@davidf6326 I suppose you are correct since ISO within any one camera is only a digital variable.
@@harpersisland Actually JG, I'm making the opposite point.
As I understand it, ISO adjustment is a direct analogue amplification of the signal from the sensor before the digital file is created. True ISO bracketing therefore requires either multiple exposures (as per other forms of bracketing) or multiple readouts from sensor. I can't see how the latter would work without multiple exposures, which makes them effectively the same thing.
This Fuji method, however, only requires a single exposure (which is what makes it suitable for moving subjects) and is also only available with jpegs, both of which suggest it's achieved by means of a digital in-camera post-process. I'm a Nikon user myself and can't prove any of the foregoing, so I admit it's conjecture at best. It would be interesting to hear the thoughts of a Fuji technical expert and I'm certainly happy to be proved at fault in my logic 😁
I like your Backpack, Which model/brand is it?
Thanks buddy, You can check it out on my gear page www.iworthphotos.com/my-gear
Very nice. I have a Nikon D850 and my own abilities only allow me to shoot at the lowest of 1/40 second.. .. arms tucked in, wide but not too wide stance , deep breath with a slow but not complete exhalation. Any thoughts to help me improve to longer durations?
Hi Mike, the wider the lens the longer your shutter speed can go, also, lenses with ois will be a big help 👍👍
What a unique place. I was worry about your safety because it's seems that any time a tribe of Tusker Riders from Star Wars will show up and surprise your (the sand people) 😅. Very useful video, thanks for this work
haha, love those movies 👍👍
I also have a x-h2 for landscapephotography . I also use the auto iso (in some situations) but in that case I cannot use the exposure compensationdial. It's not working. The iso does the job for the correct exposure. The compensationdial only works in the A, S or P mode. Curious what setting you're using in the m-mode with the comp.dial.
So I mapped one of my top function buttons to exposure comp (the video record button with the red dot) . That allows the rear dial to toggle between shutter and exp comp. Works quite well 👍👍
@@ian_worth thanks for that great idea
how do you sell those photos usually?
May I recommend you go to photography the northern coast of Brittany. Same kind of landscape, but perhaps better. At least, that’s what I think
Sounds nice buddy 👍👍
At 6:28 is that goat poo where the bag was laying?😂
sheep i think, lol 🤣
I've tried this shooting birds 📷👍
yes, i think its a great trick for wildlife 👍👍
This method requires a lot of attention in very sunny weather. Do you switch to aperture priority in those conditions?
in bright conditions it can be a problem, in these cases I would switch to full manual mode 👍👍
I'm by no means a pro, but I always shoot in manual. I've shot in manual from day one. As I walk around I'm already adjusting my iso, shutter speed and aperture based on what I anticipate the light conditions will require. I only use one non stabilised camera and lens ( I've literally only used this set set up xt1 and 23mm lens) so I know how what my minimum shutter speed I can achieve depending on if I'm walking, static and the environmental conditions and need for rapid shot. Auto iso makes more sense to me than any other auto settings but I still don't need it to this day
The proper exposure is the proper exposure is the proper exposure. How you get to it doesn't matter. Auto ISO is a fast and efficient way to get there when shooting wildlife or sports. When shooting landscapes or working in the studio you have the luxury of more time. Either way, the proper exposure is the proper exposure.
Aperture priority?
Why don't you use the IFOOTAGE monopod with tripod feet it's brilliant I wouldn't go out anywhere without it for stability anease I also use it for shore bird photography I just take off the feet and the ball joint and attach it to the feet for low level shooting
All that has been said about getting blurry pictures due to the movements of the camera and the hands of the photographer does not apply to cameras with the post-focus function. With this function, the sharpness in the desired area can be adjusted on the post after shooting. But such cameras are not common, apparently because of the high cost.
Afternoon Ian, please could you tell me the make of your Ruck Sack 🤔
its the lowe pro photo sport pro 👍👍
You made me think of why i dislike the city i like.... people here always destroy beauty. nothing stays looking nice for long here. all the best mate. thanks for the thought provoking post.
Thanks buddy 👍👍
Man you remind me so much of a customer of mine called mark worth, he’s a bricklayer here in the north east, wouldn’t happen to be a relation of yours would he?
Thanks for putting Pembrokeshire on the map, we could do with the advertising. Very confused as you by your website you don't seem to come from here.
Yeah, moved to Pembs 18months ago. I haven't had a chance up update my portfolio recently. Its on the list though 😁👍👍
I'ts a Dial mode for Pentax TAV
You appear to be an unabashed APS-C shooter. Do you run into any times when you wish for full-frame resolution or depth of field?
I shot full frame for the first 10 years of my professional career and moved to apsc because of the smaller form factor. I've never had an issue with resolution. I rarely print larger than A2 and when i need a shallow depth of field i use f1.4 prime lenses which is adequate for what i do. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ian_worth My first DSLR was a Nikon D500, which I love. I bought a D850 because full frame was supposed to the holy grail, but I still find myself using my D500 most of the time
Is it just me that worried when he just puts the bag down & walks off ? Stunning area ...
no apostrophe on pros
Thanks for your great insight.
1/10th hand held with telephoto lens - please explain how !!!
Sure, the Fuji x-h2 has 7 stops of in camera image stabilization allowing the user to shoot at much slower shutter speeds when handheld
nice video music and imagery so get an instant subscribe without asking me. specifically you focus on the subject not on the tech or method. I'm new to digital and the wonder is auto iso upto 1000s unlike film we were so limited ...
Many thanks, much appreciated. 👍
Certainly don't underestimate your skill as a photographer. You are obviously a skilled professional. Just cant get excited over a bunch of rocks surrounded by sand. Looked totally boring. Seascapes much better.Just my opinion. Having said that thanks for posting.
Thanks for the feedback Colin, much appreciated👍 The landscape is all around us, by opening our eyes to the smaller details we can practice the art of composition, lighting and technique which ultimately leads to us becoming better photographers. I often find the intimate shots are more personal, of course they lack the wow factor when you share them, but photography doesn't have to be about "wow" all of the time. 👍👍
Haha. Subtitles say "St Governor's Chapel"
so funny 🤣🤣
Auto ISO is giving control to the camera, so it’s not manual use of the camera. No camera knows what you want to achieve, it’s guess work. It’s a combo of ISO, F stop and speed controlled by the photographer not the camera 📷😄
The photographer can take back control by using the exposure compensation dial 👍
Cameras get tricked/fooled WAY too often so Auto ISO is not a pro setting but a crutch for an much less skilled photographer. This is not what one would call a Pro setting. Pros want total control of exposure and especially do with a camera with dual base ISO like the Z9. The base ISO of 64 AND ISO500 is essential to control everything including ISO
Nobody talks about focusing here... hmmm
The plural of pro is not pro's, it is pros. Never use an apostrophe for a plural
Mmm mmlu
T
How smart is auto? Smarter than you?
nice job!
Thanks! 👍👍
Please stop abusing the word "Trick".. This a camera technique. Whenever I see the word trick in the video description, I do not watch it. It is a clickbait way of getting someone to watch!
The technique you are using is very useful.
SOUNDS LIKE YOU'RE SAYING THE SHITTER SPEED. SORRY MY EARS. LOL! YOU'RE THE BEST BROTHER.
🤣🤣