Mamiya RB67 vs Mamiya RZ67: Battle of the Mamiya 6x7 Cameras
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- In a video that is long overdue, I compare two of the cameras that belong to the Mamiya 6x7 range: the Mamiya RB67 and the Mamiya RZ67.
The Mamiya RB67 was my first medium format camera, and the one that made me fall in love with film photography, yet the Mamiya RZ67 has been my go-to for the past year or so. In today's video, I look at some of the differences between the two cameras and ask the question: if I had to buy one again today, which would I choose?
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What most people don't mention / don't know in RZ reviews: if you use RB lenses on the RZ it becomes a mechanical camera, working at all speeds even without a battery or dead electronics
That’s good to hear! I thought that was only true on the RZ Pro II so it’s definitely a nice point!!
Wait what!?! I have a RZ and have never heard this. That's awesome news. I've been dreading the day the electronic parts in the RZ fail. But if I can just get some RB lenses, I'm good.
@@SophiaCarey this is also true for Hasselblads (when putting a C lens on an F body (500 series), even though f bodies are focal plane, you can switch the shutter to the C mode, to use these lenses with a leaf shutter); also you can put F lenses on a 500C/M you just do this with T or Long B exposures, as there is NO shuttter, use the lens cap, the 'baffels' with a locking cable release, etc.
Have had an RB for 25 years now, including all the lenses. My Wife and I went to Egypt and Israel in 2000. I purchased the RB handle and carried it wherever I went. Drew a lot of attention and also brought back over 400 pristine negatives. Wouldn't carry it like this again (it is large and heavy) with my Nikon D850 my carry. But notice that I have not gotten rid of it. Still use it E100 positive film and Tmax. Scan color and still enlarge b/w. Awesome camera and tx for the great review!
Fantastic comparison video covering the breadth of the differences and similarities between the two. Really happy with my RB and the only reason I would have to ‘upgrade’ would be the lens selection if I felt I needed it down the line.
Thank you so much Andy! I agree, that’s one of the biggest differences for me too
Used both during the 70s to 90s for studio work. Fashion editorial and stills.
The RB much more bullet proof daily studio use in my experience .
Cost of film these days make using them so expensive though.
Fabulous cameras,with ability to use bellows for close up work.
Even though i don't know much about film cameras i always love your indepth breakdowns so relaxing and insightful to watch when im editing 😇 One day i will be brave enough to try these cameras!
Awh I'm so glad! Would love to see what you create with a camera like this
This was a fantastic video. Very great comparison, nice speed, overall very high quality. Thank you!
Thank you so much for watching, and for the kind words!
just bought an RB Pro S. and this popped on me feed. thank you for this.
Ah amazing, you'll love it!! Thanks for watching!
Love your medium format work no matter what the camera, I’m craving moving to larger formats at the moment & both of these are serious options for me so this video is really useful thanks Sophia
Which one are you leaning more towards?
@@SophiaCarey I’ve been looking at both of these models, at the moment however I’m leaning towards something getting the Fuji 690 range (otherwise known as a Texas Leica)
Thanks for the video.
Since I prefer manual/mechanical cameras to automatic/electronic cameras, I prefer the RB67 over the RZ67.
RZ for sure, have had 2 (both with 110 2.8) from new but sadly sold one many years ago for only $200 and i'm kicking myself now. No doubt the sekor 110mm f/2.8 is the best portrait lens I've ever used
Ah yeah, 200 is a steal! At least you were able to experience the beauty of the camera (and the lens!). In agreement re: it being one of the best portrait lenses around
Nice review. I've had both as well. Few other things worth mentioning. The RZ's lenses are electronically controlled, which is supposed to help with shutter time accuracy. But there's something nice about a fully mechanical camera aka the RB. RB lenses work on RZ bodies. The RZ's viewfinder is a little cleaner/less distracting (the RB67 has lines whereas the RZ doesn't. I found the RB to be a little stiffer to focus whereas the RZ's is smoother to focus. RZ Pro II has the additional fine focusing knob on the right. Not a big deal, but I found I actually use it a lot and love it. The RB does feel more solid vs the RZ is a little more plasticky. I think the RZ might be a better choice for some if you use it professionally and have to move a little faster on jobs. Although the RB does have motorized backs, but it eats up AA batteries.
The RB is a camera that you can have forever. The RZ is a camera I'll own as long as possible until it dies. I still prefer the RZ though.
Hey! Thanks so much for watching! Great points/observations! I actually have a different video about the differences between the RZ and RZ pro II coming soon!
Also agree about the speed of the RZ for professional work. For my commercial jobs, I do find the usability of the RZ much more efficient.
And definitely agree with your last comment/summary, too!
Thanks again for watching!
I remember that in 1980 when I and my brother were looking into a MF Pro system camera, we hired an RB 67 from what was The Pelling and Cross in Manchester, and used it for a while . I liked it but compared to a Hasselblad it felt clumsy and cumbersome but a hell of a lot cheaper. The RZ was introduced later and it was a bit more sleek to operate, but the early models did have reliability issues and that was a no no for people who relied on their cameras for a living. Both RB & RZ are capable of producing great results if time is taken in setting them up correctly. They are certainly no point and shoot. Great to hear from you again Sophia.
Ooh would love to one day try a Hasselblad and see how it compares. Thanks for sharing and, as always, watching!
@@SophiaCarey If you try a Hassy, make sure that it has the Acute Matte screen. The original focusing screen is horrid. I think mine have the Beatie screens.
@@SophiaCarey Owned a 500cm and admired the quality but little else. As most of my shots were rectangular I was losing a lot of film space whereas with the RZ I am able to use nearly all of it and should I shoot square then am equal with a Hassie. As to lenses the Mamiya 110 is fully the equal of the Planar. Handheld the Hassie has lightness and size going for it but on a tripod I prefer the RZ
There are many who prefer the RB as it is wholly mechanical but I prefer the Seiko shutter on the RZ. Mechanical shutters when hard used tend to become troublesome at slow speeds and unless de-tensioned for storage (recommended for the electronic but I never bother with no problems) can become inaccurate and repairs often work out more expensive than replacement. The AE prism and Chimney for the RZ allow continuously variable shutter speeds in auto but you need a 701 prism for the RZ11 and there is no chimney availability as Mamiya no longer do the conversion. Batteries are no problem online and there is always the possibility of powering the camera via AA cells in a winder. Just one more point that RB backs can be used on an RZ using an adapter plate which comes up occasionally on e-bay. Great clear article as always!
good points about the RZ at 4:20 but also like the Bronica SQ (6x6) and the ETR's (6x4.5) you need to 'pre-check' them to be sure the battery is good, as if it switches to the mech. default during shooting, especially if you are at 1/125 or faster, you CAN'T tell if this has occured, as at slower speeds there is two distinct clicks, whereas at faster speeds you only hear one.
one other interesting point about both of these cameras is that the "mirror_up" is not, truly, on these it is simply a 'disconnect' in the shutter cycle, the ring on the lens interjects between the shutter button on the body, and the lens, transfering shutter control over to a separate cable release socket, so to M_up, you cock the camera as normal, set the ring (on RB lenses, or screw in a cable release on RZ {this extends a collar, which has a red ring painted on it}); attach a release, Fire the body button, then use the cable release on the lens.
I Have a preference for the RB with the waist level viewfinder. It's great for shooting from low perspective. It is heavy to hand hold. I have never used the prism it's that added weight again. When shooting eye level and higher I use a chair, stool, or latter and I carry the latter with me, except when hiking.
Sophia, there is one other difference between them, the lens's T setting (m_up for the body), on the RB you have a collar on a cable release sleive, you turn this to M-Up, then squeeze off the body shutter (to operate the mirror, a 1/2 cock), then use the cable release, or return this dial to normal, either one will trip the shutter in the lens!; also for a T mode, hold the shutter open, with locking cable release, or use B mode, here returning the knob will CLOSE the shutter {NOW it is safe to recock with the lever}- NB it is SAFE to use the cocking lever ALL the time with the RB, the manual says so!!; K/L lens and RZ lenses, you use a Cable release in the sleive, NO knob, the action of screwing the release in extends the sleive, you see a red line on it's base, this is the "arm" signal, ONCE this happens, (esp. on the B setting on the LENS), YOU must not use the re-cocking lever!!, only the opposing cable release socket labled "B" as a trip, by the lever will damage these mechanics ( or remove the back, take a shot, then re-cock, simmilar to a Hasselblad V system); this is the safe way of doing it (by the manuals)- for the RZ and the KL lenses on the RB's.
one other difference, the "motor drive" is on the Magasine on the RB ( a specific magasine model), on the RZ it is mounted below the body, and interacts with it, to opperate the back winding.
Nice video! I have a RB67 and a RB67S. They are awsome cameras, but not my choise for walking around...
Great video
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Before I go looking through all of your videos, Sophia, do you develop your own photos? I just recently got into film again, and I’m wondering if it’s a case of people sendoff their films or most people develop their own…..
What do you do?
Hey! No I don’t! I use a local lab to me, Come Through Lab (I have a video all about them). I think there’s a good mix of people who develop their own film and people who send theirs off!
Would you say the RB viewfinder is a lot more dim than RZ? If so id there a way to make it brighter?
You can purchase different focusing glass and viewfinders for both the RB and the RZ. I haven't personally found that the RB focusing glass is any darker than the RZ so if you're struggling with the brightness with your RB maybe considering getting a different type of focusing glass? Unfortunately I don't know the name of the types I have for either of my cameras so I can't suggest which one you buy, but I'm sure you'd be able to find some help regarding this on some forums!
@@SophiaCarey thanks !
On the RB67 do you have to insert the dark slide every time you advance the film ? 😟
Nope!
Just purchased a RB67 with a 180mm lens. Portra 400. Coming up from a Yashica T4. Here goes nothing 🤞
Ooh amazing! Have fun with it!
thank you
RZ 4 lyf
For the last 10 years, I have watched one youtuber after another sing the praises of the RZ and use it themselves. I just sat back and waited. Now Wilhem and Rico have dumped theirs FOR THE RB. Wilhem had not 1 but 2 RZ's fail. Meanwhile, my RB just keeps on clunking. (there's no click with this camera, it's a resounding clunk.) Hank KL lenses and you have comparable glass to the RZ. As for the unique 110 2.8, what is it with the gear collectors and fast 50 mm equivalents? I don't use a 50 for head and shoulder portraits, you need to get to 4' which is what we think we look like...2' to the mirror in the morning plus 2' into the mirror, 4'. So getting 5-7' from subject adds a subtle, flattering facial compression and is why an 85 is acceptable but 100 and 135 are the go to portrait lenses for actual portrait photographers. It fillls the frame at those distances. Same ridiculous fascination with the 80 1.9 in 645. If I need speed, I shoot at higher iso or use higher speed film to achieve the aperture for a desires shoot. And with an rb or 645 pro tl, I can have several film speeds loaded to shoot closed down for deep dof or wide open for bokeh.
Good for you!
I don't think it matters. But for the RB you're supposed to advance the film then cock the shutter. I see a lot of people switch the steps
Yeah I think it’s just so that you don’t accidentally shoot double exposures
Not sure about the rz67, but the rb67 doesn't have an internal light meter.
Neither camera has an internal light meter, but you can buy metered prisms (I think only for the RZ67 but I might be mistaken!)
@@SophiaCarey yes, that's true, but I think you're better off with a handheld lightmeter.
great review! RB67 Pro SD until the death of me
Thank you so much! Such a beautiful camera!
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