Ultimate Engine Maintenance Guide: Triple Your Bike Engine's Lifespan
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- čas přidán 19. 04. 2023
- Do you want to know the secret to extending your motorcycle engine's life significantly?
In this video, Adam Riemann reveal's the correct way to flush your engine and walk you through the essential process of changing the oil and filter and shares his expert insight on choosing the perfect oil for your motorcycle.
Watch now to maximise your engine's longevity and ensure smooth and reliable performance on every ride.
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Learned more about oil changes in 18 minutes watching your video than I have in 40 years of riding :) Thanks!
You had never learned to get the bike warm? Read the manual much?
Me too feel stupid now
💯 True 👍👍
Ditto, Martin.
Commen sense ..hot oil changes are the only way
i'm a mechanic (a car mechanic but there are no differences when it comes to oil change) and i would say you did a pretty good job in showing how to properly do an oil change.
i would just like to specify some things:
1- when installing a new filter, it is good practice to use some oil to lube the O-ring (in this case, it was pre-lubed), to do so just tip your finger in oil and wet the rubber seal (better with gloves)
2- do not ever use power tools when tightening either the oil filter, the drain plug or the fill plug, as you correctly shown, you should alway tighten by hand and stop turning as soon as you feel a bit of resistance
3- one good thing to do is to check the oil filter and the air box, i often find bits of leaves and other dirt in air boxes (behind the air filter), i'm still puzzled as to why that happens even on relatively new air filters (i suspect poor installation is the cause) if you find such debris, use a hoover to suck all the debris out, pay attention also to the mainifold leading to the engine and hoover it as far as you can, DO NOT, under any circumstance use pressurized air to try to remove this debris, it could seriously damage your engine as you are pushing the debris INTO the engine.
other than that, just give your engine a bit of time before you start hammering it (it doesn't really take much time on modern engines, you mainly just wanna reach oil pressure before starting to move, 10 seconds is a safe esitmate) and do not rev the engine much before it heats up a bit (doesn't take long, 1/2 minutes of decent speed driving). if you follow these instructions, and you do proper maintenance, your engine will be decently bulletproof (design defects not withstanding).
A good video. I use a torque wrench on sump plug and filter.
I also cut the old filter open and inspect the paper and keep it in a library with kms and date.
In your opinion, what is your recommendation on the oil and filter change for the bike at the same time... Specs do not call for the same change out... Cheers mate
@@RobertSantos-rw8dy I go 5k or 12 months. The start if the
Start of the ride season. Plus fresh brake fluid.
@@frankguernier2280 inspecting the filter is a good idea, but one shouldn't be shocked if he finds a little amount of metal dust, just be careful of chunks, the torque wrench is also a good thing, not vital, but good.
Nobody changes my oil but me, for 45yrs, but i I ALWAYS learn things from you! Thanks, good stuff 🤙
Its very easy to do and it saves you a lot of money.
@@crad5476...& very important, so why trust anyone else to do it? Nobody cares for a bike like the one depending on it, apprentice at a shop, doubt it, he's learning with your bike!
Don’t be afraid to allow the bike to cool a little bit after riding the hell out of it. I’ve had bad experiences with hot engines, aluminum threads, and steel bolts. Things don’t always come properly torqued from the factory, or your dealership, or you’re friends garage, and if it’s over torqued and good and hot, you’re chances of destroying threads goes up pretty quickly. Especially on smaller bolts like the ones you’d find on KTM’s LC8c oil filter cover.
Totally I would let my 701 cool down a bit, the threads are made of swiss cheese, i got 4 bolts for the 2 oil filters torqued at 8Nm and they scare the shit out of me even with a pro torque wrench every time lol
I over tightened the drain plug on my cbr600 while it was hot once. I'm super paranoid about doing it again. I usually change it cold but I think i will warm it up this time and see how it goes. Will wait for it to be cold before tourqing the drain plug.
Being as I change mine at home, I can drain the oil hot and allow a decent cooldown time before torquing the drain bolt into the heated case. Never had issue yet... but now you got me worried. Is it mainly an issue when tightening into the warm aluminum? Or even when cracking the drain bolt loose? Thx.
@@CRGmotors not cracking the drain bolt loose when it's warm for me, but tightening when engine is warm could stretch the threads
And if you're worried about sediment.. flush a whole entire quart of new oil through the fill hole, and let it drain out until empty or even clear.! Flush the engine with new, to get out all the old. Then fill completely up with new, good to go!
As an ex mechanic with ocd this makes me happy to see somebody teach the CZcams world with actual experience and knowledge. All of my moto mates turn up at the track dirty bikes dirty filters dropping cold oil drives me crazy and they wonder why their bikes don't last 🤷🏼♂️
Would love to see how you change and measure fork oil. It's perhaps one of the most ignored maintenance tasks and yet a crucial one! Cheers
What a great subject for a video! Hopefully we will see it.
Dump it out. Then measure it in a cup before you fill. ??? What else is there to discuss?
@@SLP-eb1wp Because it's generally better to measure by air gap, not fluid volume.
If it were crucial everyone's forks would be destroyed and leaking.
People ignore because they're a pain in the ass to do, some bikes you have to disassembly the whole front just to yank the forks out
Agree with everyt single word you said on this video, as always.
And don´t forget 🙂
Never turn the engine off when the fan kicks on to cool the engine down, let it turn off first.
Why is that?
@@Gwiedert If you turn the engine in this very hot condition off, the heat will stay for very long time in the engine and because the water is not circulating at this moment it may start to boil and damage the coolant or even the head gasket and other parts will also sufer from this.
This is the reason why modern cars have an electrical water pump that continues to circulate the water even if you turn the engine off.
Sorry for my bad english, its not my native language.
@@iliasminas7711 garbage German cars have those electric that don’t last
@@Smoshylife True
My new favourite channel…simple and practical advice from an experienced rider looking to help everyone out.
Absolutely superb. The passion for biking makes the content infectious. 👏👏👏
Torque wrench with a new crush washer, that will guarantee you'll never strip a drain plug. And the torque spec assumes a new crush washer.
The smart answer is a fumoto valve 👍
@@allanthomas7345 I've old and I never crashed a car but I'm not stupid enough to ignore seat belts, abs or car insurance...
A copper drain plug can be reused many times with no leaks. Assuming it's not over torqued.
@@methanial73 You are obviously referring to a drain bolt copper washer ,as motorcycle sump drain plugs are not manufactured from copper . You can reheat a used copper washer & reform it by heating it up with a blow torch if you haven’t got a replacement washer.
It doesn’t matter if there is a new washer or not ,an accurate torque wrench set to the correct value ,will not over tighten. The washer made of alloy or copper is there to prevent oil seepage ,as the tightened bolt crushes it down to make up for slight irregularities in the sealing area between bolt head & sump drain hole area . Often you can get away with re using a previously used washer ,but if possible it’s always better to use a new washer of the same type ,to prevent less chance of oil seepage at running temp . Often the owners handbook won’t mention renewing the sump washer ,or only mention replacing it if damaged. Any torque value mentioned is only to prevent damage to the sump bolt & sump drain hole threads by over- tightening . The force exacted on the sump threads is the same where a new crush washer is used or not ,as long as the correct torque value is used .
Thank ya good sir!
As a new adventure bike owner I have needed every single one of these videos you’ve recently released.
Also changing oil on my 450RL after work tonight.
Thanks Adam!
🏍️💨
I watch quite a lot of moto related channels and yet you're the only one that have really orignal content and touch on some really important topics (ok FortNine is golden too). Good on you mate and keep up!
Never stop listening & learning. And never stop riding a motorbike ☺ Thanks and big regards from Germany to you
Loving these maintenance vids. You’ve got so much knowledge but your expertise is in how you explain it. Thank you
Some great tips Adam thanks. I think regular oil changes are one of the simplest and most important things we can do for our bikes. Learn how to do it yourself, save time and money and become familiar with your own machine👍
Genuinely the best video I've seen on the subject. Everything is explained and has a reason behind it, not just "do this because we said so".
Loving your technical insights and maintenance videos. They are pure value because they help me 'understand' why I should do something in a particular way. Cheers from Holland.
i learned something new today ✌️ Thank You!
ARiemann1's videos are the real deal ... no reading from a script, just a straight shooter.
2 things I also do is prefill the oil filter up to the threads once, It'll absorb into the filter media. Once the engine has drained I take .5qt of fresh oil and pour it in the fill port with the drain plug still off, you'd be surprised that it still comes out dirty for a few sec and then clean. I always buy extra oil, to me it's cheap compared to an engine.
Absolutely gold stuff. Thank you, Sir! As a happy owner of a 2 years old motorcycle, I'm gonna do my own maintenance, starting with oil change,thanks to your valuable insides.
Thank you Adam for your shorter super helpful videos as of late. For someone without an engine-guru around growing up this are so valuable!
That rear wheel hopping at around 1:00 had my heart pumping!
Gotta get that oil in every crevice!
One of the best videos out there on oil change. I would add run the motor for a few secs then turn off and check level again after a minute or so to finally dial in your level. I tip my bike over each way when draining the oil to get as much as possible down to the sump. Maybe over kill. Thanks for a great video mate. Regards from the UK.
As someone who hasn't even touched handbars before, I look at you as a bigger brother that's teaching me stuff. I'm looking to get my license these days and grab an old bike to learn both to ride and the mechanical stuff on it and I'm really pumped.
Love the content, I came across your channel when you got that old Africa Twin in Norway and it's just amazing. Keep it up!
Welcome to motorcycling!
I'd say you're getting into it the right way, enjoy & good luck! ..careful who you take advice from, but think you found a good place for it 🤙
Be careful, not all advice is equally helpful. Get another opinion, several if possible, then make your decision and regret it, learn by experience. Some sources are more reliable than others, shop manuals are better than CZcams experts.
The heat cycles will also darken your oil. I don’t disagree about the sediment but it’s not the only factor. Great vid!
spot on, oil in its pure form is black, also good point, on the filter, always oem for the bikes, , cars ok with ryco etc because they live or die on quality, mass production,not bikes
I too am with you. The same "sediments" are going to settle again on those same "surfaces" regardless to tempreature. It happened previously after it was ran hot, will likely happen again while it is hot..
@@SgtPepperDayZ yeah the info in the video is wrong. The color has most to with crankcase blow by, fuel dilution and excessive heat intervals.
And condensation or any additives a person may have used making the oil "burn" at lower tempatures.
Also: a tiny bit of exhaust makes it past the piston rings.
I just like the way that he runs his videos and narrates them, I can listen to this guy talk motorcycles all day long.
I would like to add something I like to do (and it's only a personal preference) when changing oil filters: I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil, letting the internals in the filter absorb all the oil it can before mounting it on the engine. Doing this will allow the oil pump to fill up the filter casing a lot faster as it is already saturated, and the new oil will reach the engine faster.
This is by the way one of the best videos I've ever seen on how to do a proper oil change! You're being informative and educational and at the same time making the topic interesting, watching you hammer that bike on the track also helps keeping our attention 😉
It's interesting, but there isn't any proof that filling with oil helps, and on modern ZX-6R's the pump loses it's prime and the only way to prime the pump again is to actually loosen the oil filter to allow air to bleed out. It might actually help the pump to have less resistance on it, by having an empty filter, so it's able to actually get oil into the oil pump and begin pumping before it encounters resistance in the oil filter. Even when I fill an oil filter totally full, the engine still never has oil pressure, so I've had to crank my engine with the throttle all the way open (flood clear mode). Hold your throttle completely full throttle, then crank, and it won't start, because it shuts off all the fuel to the injectors. After the oil light goes out, then start it. You won't damage your engine this way. Dry starts cause years of damage in a few seconds.
Alot of tractor and truck engine manufacturers specify the fill new filter with oil method also.
When the oil filter sits sideways or upside down it just leads to spilling oil all over.
@@suprlite Not really, the filter absorbes the oil and holds it, I'm not talking about filling the filter to the brim _after_ the filter is in fact saturated. I've done this for years with no problem at all - If you're spilling oil you're doing it wrong 😂
@@Ritalie I see this is a comment I've not noticed, but yeah you're absolutely correct, no proof for this being the best way of changing the filter, its my preference - and some engine/vehicle manufacturers actually instruct you to do so in the manual. You do what you think is best, and if your bike needs the air to bleed in order to get the filter filled and oil flowing I guess "bleeding" is the way to change filter in your case.
life circumstances have forced me to sell my T7. Love your videos! So good explanations, simple but good edition! Good job! Looking forward for the next one.
Your explanation makes perfect sense to anyone but how many people actually do it the right way? Thanks for the video.
I love you mate....always clear, concise information with an Ozzie twist! 👍👍
Good Stuff ! Straight to-it with no BS ! I was lucky that 3 of my Dads mates were A-Grade-Mechanics who built some amazing race-engines etc . They taught-me what you just showed and at 14 , I soon become the 'Free' mechanic for all my mates ! Any problems and I had 3 experts I could give a call , we did everything to our bikes and (later) cars , including engine-rebuilds . There seemed to be a lot more commonsense back in those days (I'm just cracking 70 and still ride, TR1 xv is my favorite, my Old-Man-bike is a W650) Dave NZ
I appreciate the detailed explanation of each step in the maintenance process.
Your description of the[ Gruel left in the motor]is without Parallel. clutch plate particules ,followed up with gear box steel shavings grinding their way thru the motor, not to mention the oil filter false sense of defence against such an attack. LOVED it Adam. I learn something new every time. your fan PARC ADV
Adam, Thank you for the brilliant videos, I've learned so many valuable tips over the past year. It's s great having people like you taking time from their lives and providing good solid information. It's truly appreciated. Here's a tiny tip that was provided to me by a WW2 vet to who I always listened very attentively when I was a mechanics apprentice for a small family garage. He always prefilled the oil filters. He explained when you removed the filter it had oil in it so it's best to install the filter with oil in it so it's ready to lubricate the engine once it's started. ( Grant F also stated in the comments ) Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
@Terry Willefert When i replaced the turbo on my Saab i unplugged the ignition cassette so that i could crank over the engine without it starting until i built up sufficient oil pressure, could probably do the same with oil changes if you want to be extra safe with dry filters.
I'd probably do that if it wasn't for the fact that most of the stuff i own has either sideways or upside down filters
Did a cold oil change about 3 weeks ago, watched you vid, took it for a blast around the farm with the kids, then dropped the hot oil out, my clean oil that had just gone in was black, thanks heaps.
Mate, absolutely fantastic video! As an engineer sometimes is hard to explain to people, you have done it beautifully! Also worth to mention, for people living in cold area it is good practice to change oil before winter, as old oil with all these particles has also water particles in it and when sits over winter which tends to crystalize, once this happens there could be small microscopic reacting creating pitting or crevice corrosion. If you change your oil as you have shown before winter, you are ready to go in summer!
I use a magnetic sump plug which collects a lot of the gunk between oil changes. At each change I wipe off the gunk and appreciate magnetism.
I noticed that Adam was not mentioning this in the video. I have magnets in gear sump, oil sump and even for transaxle. Gear oil plug looked like a little hedgehog made of steel, when I changed the oil at 10000km. Suggested interval is 30000km. I seriously think that gearbox have died before that, the amount of metal flakes was insane.
Another approach with the engine is to put a couple of strong magnets on the side of the filter can. This will help collect steel particles onto the side of the can instead of in the filter element. Good economical approach. Main drawback is that unless you cut it open with a filter can opener, you can’t see how much material is collecting.
Touratech bash plate is what I have, so worth it.
Very good knowledge you have, I change the oil after a hot steady day in the UK and even if the manual says 6k miles to change,I still change mine at 1k miles 👍.
Sump plug bolt, I drilled small hole and lockwired it, Not Rm80 experience but yz125.
This is the reason I service my own cars and bikes - got burned too many times by workshops that just didn’t have the care and respect for my stuff. A word of warning for hot engines and alloy threads - take care and go easy as it is VERY easy to strip.
No wasted words here. Every minute was informative. Much appreciated!
Great video Arie, good tips, bring back memories about my old KTM 500 2 stroke pieces of metal coming oud with every oil change, it had a magnetic drainplug, you can get that for your T7 too from Kedo, it collects al the metal particles so no metal going through the oil channels, good stuff mate & keep them video's coming, enjoy the tinkering with the bikes, big thumbs up from Thailand👍👍
You have so much good tips!
I've been riding for +15years and I never knew those little tricks
Thanks for also explaining WHY you should have warm oil and so fort :)
Keep it going man. I love your channel
I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.
i always changed my oil when my bike was very cool...or i gave it rest say al the night and then the next morning i changed the oil...and it was my practice for the last 20+ years or more...now after watching this i will never let the bike cool down..such a clever tip..
I like how you explain why, without knowing why, steps will eventually be skipped.
I've been riding for only lil about 3 years or so and I was always told to change oil on cold without giving any sort of explanation lol. I guess is never too late to learn, thanks for the free lessons man! Love your vids keep 'm comin!
Does your owners manual say to change oil cold or is that something you heard somewhere?
@@bradboustead1682 heard. The "owners manual" I got when I got the bike was super basic sadly.
Thank you for the explanations. Like your previous ones they have been on point. I have recommended your videos to my son who is just starting out. Keep them coming.
Some years ago, the younger me was in the learning stage of motorcycle maintenance. And a lesson was coming. The theory of hot oil was solid, I heated the motor and proceeded to remove the oil plug. Not long into the process, my wrench slipped a little and the palm of my hand hit the exhaust pipe. Just a small touch, for less than a second. The glove and some of my hand melted, like wax, it could be worse, but the small bone stopped the scorching metal. A couple of months of healing, and now I have a visual reminder to not overdo it. Yes, I won't change the oil on a cold engine, but not on a smoldering hot one either. Heat it up, let it cool to safe temperature, save yourself the horrible pain and the possible damage to the oil pan/drain plug threads.
Also, never tighten the new oil filter with anything but your hand, it even says so on the filter. A man using the wrench to tighten the oil filter should not give advice, this is mechanical illiteracy.
So, consider what matters more, some imaginary health benefit to your motor or the serious burns, terrible pain and long healing time.
Every so often you come across a channel with brilliant info where you learn a load no matter how much youve learnt in the past :) thanks for taking the time to share gradually working my way through the videos superb work an info. I got my 300 rally back from a dealer the other week after its first service usually do all my own work an noticed how filthy the oil was after its first service in the window, my dads bro who raced Nortons always hammered it into my mind to change them hot, ill try the fan trick on the rally this week.
Great advice, I always go for a good blast before an oil and filter change. Also change oil at half the specified interval, it's cheap insurance.
Wonderful vid! I take exception with a couple of minor things though.
First off I always would advise using the factory recommended oil type and viscosity. There are tolerances inside engines that absolutely depend on it. So no, I would not use a higher viscosity unless i had an old or failing engine.
And as far as filter bypasses go. You don't quite hit the fine point. Though you are close. It's rare and unusual for an oil filter to completely stop filtering as you seemed to state. There may be a time when someone goes too long an interval and gets a partial restriction. That is rare, and when it happens the bypass system allow enough oil by the filter to allow the engine to lubricate itself and survive. but there will still be some filtering going on and some of the wear particles will be collected during bypass.
Butr your main point is true and well said. Hot oil carries away the most contamination. So true.
That's what I thought also, if a oil filter routinely quits filtering in not much time engines would never last.
Something has to be going on to plug an oil filter. Shouldnt be that much debris coming off inside a good engine.
If you slip the clutch hard and regular then yeah, clutch parts try to go throughout the engine.
I will never do that to my 890. Only on 2 strokes do I use a clutch like that, but at low revs.
Always great advice that will improve my knowledge on my riding and keeping my bikes running sweet.
one of my fav channels on youtube! never miss a fortnine or ariemann1 video
I always replace a filter every oil change but i never thought about how quick it might get blocked. I always change oil long before the book says SO I dont think a filter blocks that quickly. But i don't ride anywhere near as hard as you.
Great video and im glad it confirms my oil change habits.
Motul: Never liked it. Always seemed thin and engine was nosier. My xr400m clutch would slip on it (Had a built Motor), My ktm 690, husky te510 engine was very loud, Even on the 10w - 60. Went to penrite and it has been fantastic and a little cheaper.
Yeah mate, the accumulation of debris is exponential - the more cold oil changes are done, the more particles stay in your motor and basically block your filter quicker each time they're replaced.
Brilliant video. Here, in India, they always insist on changing the oil when cold!! This is such an eye opener! Couldn't have come at a better time as planning for a 1000 kms ride with considerable off-road conditions 🙏
Does no one in India bother to read service manuals?
The suggestion to only change when cold must be a safety issue for mechanics, surely. No advantage there for the customer.
Did cold change and my oil turned black in the window immediately. No wonder
I feel like the majority of people hardly ride their motorcycles and usually sell them after a year or two, but this is all solid advice and guidance. Thanks
Interesting assumption.
Go take a look at the mileage of second hand T7's. A lot of them are well under 5k miles. People must have money to burn
@@MrRadialdrift well I say it based mostly on observation. Observation of the mileage on secondhand bikes and the experiences buying second hand bikes. In total that's experiences with 15 motorcycles (owned by myself or family over years), only one had more than 25k miles on it, and it was a 1971.
I've had my plated '05 WR450F for 6 years now
@@seatime674how many kilometres are on it?
I suppose i should use this rare opportunity when im early to tell you that as a newbie rider i found your video,s enjoyable and to a certain degree useful (i have yet to really learn or try most stuff from all the guides you made,let alone have a suitable vehicle for some of the things)
Ill comeback to it when need be.
Thanks Adam once again, your information is always top notch
Love how you express the hole concept of everything in the process
of doing the job 🙌 👌
11:38 good idea to pre fill the filter with oil to soak into the filter media so oil pressure rises quicker.
For me, changing the oil is a pain the backside (literally), but your knowledge and methodical approach shows how simple and important it is ... and so it becomes fun.
Great video, and absolutely wicked bike!
The only thing I do extra… is fill the new filter with new oil before I put it on. Even my horizontal mount ones like yours. You can fill it to the top, and it will soak it up enough to not spill when spinning it on. Avoid those crucial few seconds of it running not getting oil right away due to the element in the filter soaking it up first. I also soak my canister type ones on my BMW as well. But that’s just me. 🤷♂️
Cheers 🍻
Looks like the oil level is directly in line with the middle of the filter on your bike. I guess in this case it would prime itself.
Love your recent maintenance videos mate!
Adam, my 890 had Putoline at the dealer for first service warranty validation, I switched to motorex next service but didn't like how the clutch was grabby when cold, so I went back to Motul which I used in my Gsxr stunt bike and YZ400. I'm on the 7100 10/50 - bike revs cleaner, shifts slicker, is generally noisier but hell KTM's sound like a bag of spanners anyway.
I also use the 890 for short commutes, the worst type of running for an engine. So it gets oil changes every 600 miles regardless, warm it up to boil off the condensate then thrash the arse off it. A Filter is critical at every change if doing short journeys due to the heavier content of moisture, acids and fuel dilution that occurs in short duration running (warm up enrichment)
Same if you do lots of river/creek crossing, water ingested will generally be burnt off by combustion and heat in the crankcase, but any making its way into the oil can block the filter.
People seeing blackened oil with recommended grades should check how hot their oil temp is. We found our race cars 10/50 was blackening quicker than expected and after placing temp strips on several locations we found the temps on a gallery exceeded the 50 rating, switched to 10/60 and the oil lasted between scheduled changes with no blackening.
Motul is quality gear, when I revalved my forks and shock I discovered that motul was one of the few manufacturers whose grades actually met the correct cSt viscosity values required by WP.
Love the detail, thanks for the time you have taken to explain this.
We are so blessed in the USA to have the other countries making motorcycle videos. The American motorcycle channels on CZcams don't know how anything actually works, they just bring their engine to a specialty shop in Southern California, and they have the engine built for $39,000 with a secret cash deal behind the camera. Then they install the new shiny engine, and have a $100,000 project bike, and make it seem like it's just a normal thing that people can afford. Nobody ever explains oil. Americans don't know how oil even works. So thank you so much for educating us.
I generally sell my bikes before worrying about engine lifespan but educational vid none the less. Another great watch . 👌
Same here. I don’t even keep them long enough to need a valve adjustment. There’s a lot of life left in the engine when I swap them for something new. As far as oil changes I simply follow the manual, never had an issue.
Thanks for explaining things so well mate, enjoy the bike! I can't wait to get a T7 sometime in the near future..
That was preaching a life lesson to anyone! Its the blood of an engine next is air! Well said Sir
Hi Adam. I work in the oil sector, mainly in imports and distribution and what you said about the xW-xx oil being the visco at low and high temps is correct. However, some manufacturers have specific specifications for the same viscosity grades. For example, it’s possible to have 2 “10w-40s” which conform to different specifications. This is to do with the materials inside the engine such as the specific material the rings are made out of, if the block is forged or cast etc.
Therefore, it is always advisable that if you are using higher or lower viscosity grades, to match the specifications. For example the JASO MA2 spec can be found on multiple different grades and is for a certain type of piston ring material to prevent burn.
Great video as always!
Thanks mate, I had to read a couple of Castrol spec articles to qualify the ratings etc, despite having gone by feel for the last 30-years of racing bikes.
I've always tested various oils and ratings and for me it comes down to what the engine likes... you can feel it. If I've had to put cheap oil in for whatever reason, I purposely go a little easier on the engine and then drain it early like a flush.
When I've got a quality oil in and the engine loves to rev with it, I'll push it as hard as I can in race conditions or whatever. Never had a motor fail me because of the oils I've used and the maintenance method I've outlined in this video. Motul is one the top-shelf few.
@@MotologyFilms The way I see, if the companies like Motul, Mobil1, Castrol, Eurol etc are using the Dakar to test their fluids, it’s fine for 99% of riders!
Have a T7 myself and always use a high grade 10w-40 like yourself. So important and so easy to neglect and go for the bottle that’s $5 cheaper!
@@MotologyFilms Racing aint same as mechanical engineering or knowledge in oil and viscosity in different scenarios
Hey Killian,
im working at a multibrand motorcycle shop - and while i'm still a salesman im very into details. And as far as all the information goes that's in my reach the JASO MA2 is primarily about the amount of inner friction of the mentioned oil and is a crucial specification for wet clutch systems. Is that aspect of piston ring friction a side aspect or is it outlined wrong in german literature and the focus is on the piston rings? It's the first time i hear about that - as far as i learned it was almost completely about the wet clutch slipping.
Would be interesting. But i'll also have a chat about that with the man of motul germany, who's responsible for our area.
Best regards!
@@euermerkwurdenscherbenwahn242 You are completely correct. The main purpose of JASO MA2 is to do with clutch bite and grip like you mentioned. All specs have functions which are primary, secondary and so on. Piston rings are an easy example of different materials inside and engine as sometimes people who arent so in to the technical side will just assume all the internals are metal cause the engine is metal, which as we know is not correct.
Always spot on! It's a joy listening to you! Thanks buddy
Love how explain the purpose of charging oil while it's hot..my father always told me to run an engine to operating temp whether it's a car motorcycle or lwn mower but never explained why..
I just learnt a very critical thing about changing engine oil hot and not cold!! Awesome!
Wow, this video is an absolute gem! 🌟 The content is not only informative but also presented in such an engaging and entertaining way. The visuals are top-notch, keeping me hooked from start to finish. Keep up the fantastic work! 👏👏"
Love it, especially the simple explanations of the things the mechanically challenged should know!
loving the maintenance side of things my dude keep it coming :)
I am taking the dipstick off as well while the oil plug and filter are out. Great video, thank you!
It still surprises me that people pay a shop to do their oil changes. That tool that you used on the filter is the same as fits all three of my bikes as well as my Landcruiser, so cost effective. I consider doing my own oil changes on a par with changing nappies on your new born... it's a time of personal contact that will improve your relationship, in this case with your bike, and help you know it more parsonally !! Never a bad thing. Thanks for the so concise video.
Here in Brazil the price of the oil on the internet it's pretty much tha same to the shop, and In the shops they only charge the oil. For convinienc I change oil in a shop
Having a hard time finding that oil filter removal tool, do you have a source? Thank you
Funny you mention it. Use the filter I bought for my Tundra on the T7 as well.
These have been very enjoyable videos to watch! Thank you!
Thanks for putting that together, always something to learn from your vids
Just another great video Adam! Thanks!
most educational bike related videos on internet . had been following you for long always happy to see your contents
Thankyou
Great content Adam , really enjoying it , thank you
Perfect tutorial! I always ride my bike for 30 minutes before the oil change.
Yep. I did that. Spent lots of $ on racing oil and noticed it was dark after my 1st ride. I just blamed it on the oil and said nope not gonna buy that brand again. Thanks for this top tip! Now I gotta go change my oil again.
Such matter of fact explaining, love it. Thanks for another great video.
Am super so in love with this bike.. I pray I afford one in my lifetime .. great rider with so much knowledge on the right bike.. kool
Great tutorial Adam. Many thanks 🙏
Thank you teacher, for this great lesson! Keep going with the good work ✊
Awesome video, tyvm! Went on and did the oil change. Turned out to be solid interesting mess, because I did not want to take off all the crashbars to remove the skid plate, which was bolted on underneath them. But next time will be much better and cleaner.
Great tips. I think the crush washer I'm using is original. Also getting a magnetic drain bolt is a handy way to collect the heavier dirt. Changing oil in all my vehicles basically like this. Shit is too expensive to just trade it in every couple years.
What's everyone's mileages on their one lungers?
2011 KLR with 106000km. Had it's first two oil changes with Kawasaki synthetic and paper filters. Then switched to Amsoil and stainless filter. Roughly around 20k I switched to Rotella T4 as Amsoil or other synthetics are too much money and unrealistic for regular use and travel. However I aquired an older GasGas and will run Amsoil in it because 1. It's a Europrincess
2. It's a weekend bike
3. The cost per mile will be significantly lower
That's pretty good, my R1 has 166,000 k's on it and I only ever change the oil when cold, halve the suggested oil change intervals and use Motul synthetic. Runs as good as the day I bought it.
Absolutely fantastic video mate. Thank you 👍
Fantastic info, mate. Definitely food for thought !!
Great video and good tips! One thing I would also recommend is filling the new filter up with fresh oil before screwing it on. This will make sure the oil pressure is built up quicker on the first start.
Issue there is trying to re-fit the filter without losing much of the content. Have been doing my own oil changes for more than 50 years and not filling the filter has never been an issue.
@@johnstaring3210 that is indeed difficult on some models. It will probably not be an issue. But if we are talking about increasing engine life span the less time the engine is running without the proper oil pressure the better in my opinion.
I worked as a live tech for my first job years ago and I always ever just turned the oil filter on with one hand. Never had on fail but I loved getting a vehicle in when I was the last one to work on the because I knew the filter wouldn’t be cranked on there lol
Also keep in mind some manufacturers will say “we recommend Mobil 1” or something like that. Mobil 1 is fine from what I’ve heard (I’m not a petrochemical engineer) but the manufacturer recommends mobil 1 because the have a financial incentive to do so
Brill video and great help for when I get the bike! Thanks very much Adam!
Great episode. Lots of knowledge put in a short period of time, and entertaining. Thanks, Günter, Nürnberg/Germany
Adam, very nice video mate! This is a huge tip. Ty!
I wish I could ride half that well - full send, all the time! Great tips on engine maintenance, much appreciated. I use a telescoping magnetic "pickup" tool for the last few threads when removing the oil plug
If anyone can recommend an excellent ADV training course within 100 kms of Vancouver (Canada), I would appreciate it!
I think Brett Tacs the utuber on the older GS lives around Seattle. I could be wrong but an excellent teacher and rider.
Absolutely excellent and beautiful video, thank you Adam…
Very interesting. About to change the oil/filter on my Buell XB12X after a long storage. I'll follow your advice to the letter.
First off-roader I've seen wearing pyjamas.