I'm 100% convinced, that if our state and federal government were serious about housing affordability and building new houses to ease this, they should pay you (and others like you) at least $300,000 a year and give you a dedicated team and unlimited resources to pump out videos on how we construct quality houses in Australia.
Buildsum, thank you very much for your quality videos and even more for passing on your experience and experiences in residential construction. You are doing fantastic work, keep it up, thanks again
Nice use of Sketchup and great information for builders. They do make a metal bracket that slips over the edge board for a standard 150 rebate yet the method you show is a better way of doing it .
@@Buildsum Copy that, project home builders use them a lot as unfortunately, the quality is not their number one priority. Mate, we love your work, well done!
Love it, really helping with my revision for technical skills assessment. Some stuff that's lost there in my head but needs to be rejuvenated. Really appreciate these vids would be pretty lost without them.
@@Buildsum It's for the 190 visa skills shortage. I've worked in a bit in UK NZ WA and now NSW, stage 1 is the experience gathering and stage 2 is the Technical skills assessment. I'm definitely more confident in explaining stuff than I was. My test is Next Monday just keep watching your vids on 1.75x speed 😄
hi Buildsum, again, thanks for this great vid. Im wondering two more things about formwork. 1. How to form up a 50mm setdown for a screed in a wet area, and 2. how to form the 45 degree internal angle connection between 400mm deep perimeter edge beams and 100mm slab (in section view), if constructing a timber frame on a slab?
Hi Sue, the 50mm setdown would be formed up with temporary pegs that would be removed and the holes filled in, after the concrete has been poured and the first screed completed. The 45-degree internal angle is shaped into the ground or the waffle pod. I show this in this video czcams.com/video/0Um_Ttv95Ko/video.html Hope this helps
@@Buildsum thanks yes it does help - I'l have to get the excavator to shape that in. Im assuming it doesn't have to be exactly 45 degrees - the Engineer did not specify anything about this angle, I just see that the slab needs to be thicker to avoid any shear forces
Fantastic video Thanks ! i just have one question in regards to how to fasten the edge board to the ledger board using the two peg and ledger board system? its at 4.30min in the presentation . Thanks Grant
Hi Grant, You could just nail through the face of the edgeboard into the ledger however that will make pulling it apart hard with the concrete in position so the best idea is to skew nail through the ledger into the edgeboard. Hope this helps.
Hi John, Great videos, really informative, thanks for putting these on line. Would the slab be the same for a double brick house, as opposed to a brick veneer? Cheers
with the rebate, would you not put a board between the top of the edge board and the bottom of the rebate to stop concrete spilling out during the pour? great video though thanks
Hi, This may be a silly question What stops the concrete from spilling over througth the rebate? Is there some cloth or lining or is it too dense to spill out?
Hi Nermin, you would think that it would and if it was water then, of course, it would, however for reasons that I am not exactly sure about, it doesn't. As you say it is probably the density of the concrete that prevents it from overflowing the formwork.
im also wondering about the slab edge details for a timber framed construction, with set-in bifold doors? Im imaginging the slab with timber framing will just be square edge?
Hi Sue, yes, most likely however it would depend on the construction of the doors and the finish of the flooring. You might have to have a small step down in the slab to allow for the door tracks to finish flush with the floor.
@@Buildsum thanks, yes I've also checked with Allan Staines book, and it looks like square edge at the perimeter. Ive got a couple more questions for you which I'll posta bove, thank you
One question: Can you build your footing using bricks and then push mesh and rebars on top of that and then add concrete to save on concrete? Or can you build your footing without using any concrete and just use bricks and mortar?
Unless you want the footing to come out of the ground I would not worry about the formwork. To keep the excavation as accurate as possible digging by hand is best or if you need to use a machine to dig it with an undersized bucket and finish it off by hand.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, look I would say 5 to 10mm at the most depending on the area. Remembering that your frame and or brickwork can't overhang the slab more than 20mm max and your cavity (if you have one) can't be any less then 20mm either I think, you need to be pretty accurate.
Thanks Mate, generaly not a concern however if you were worried you could face the timber with Ply, making sure that you allow for the extra thickness of course.
Hi Hank There is not enough weight in the concrete on top to force it out of the step when it is mixed at the correct ratios. The wetter the mix the more likely it is to happen however it is not an issue.
Hi Roger I would only take out all of the top soil until you get to good, compact soil, if this is too deep then you may have to get the slab designed for the soil type. Most soil can be used as fill as long as it is clean, free of organic matter and minimal clay content. There are also products like road base that will compact very well
Hi Dion, I like to keep the rebate a least 2 courses of brickwork deep so 142mm and it needs to be 150mm wide, 110mm for the brick and then 40mm min for the cavity Hope this helps
Hi Roger Yes, The moisture barrier should go down either under or over the top of the waffle pods before the mesh is installed and termite protection applied around the penetrations in the slab before it is poured. After the slab has been poured additional termite protection is applied to block the cavity
THANKS John, for the penetrations of termite protection, is that mean chemical spray on the soil which under the slab? is that spry job has to be done by licensed pest controller and need grab a certificate for CERTIFY? I saw a TERMITE membrane product which will be laid the as same position as moisture barrier on top the infill soil, is this kind product better or cost too high?
Hi Roger You can spray however all sprays nowadays have a limited life span so unless you can get back underneath the slab to reapply it they are not worth using. Terimesh and similar products have collars that go around pipes to stop termites getting through. Yes, all termite systems must be installed by a licenced installer. Kordon is a combination DPC and Termite barrier which can be used on the penetrations and perimeter the same way as Terimesh but would be very expensive to use as a waterproof membrane under the entire slab
good intentions but this drawing -sample don't show real life out on jobsite I build slabs and post tension slabs-floors and forming is not quite close to every day forming /reinforcement /pouring
Can anyone help me understand slab terminology, I've asked two builders only to find out I had more of a clue than they did... in fill slab: a slab in which the masonry walls are used as the formwork on fill slab: a slab which rests on a foundation as opposed to a suspended slab slab on ground: a slab which rests on the foundation, and the walls rest on the slab rather than the footing monolithic slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured in one footing slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured separately correct? I'm Australia based
Hi Scotty, Yes you are correct, some of the confusion comes because you could use 2 or 3 of those terms to describe the same slab, e.g. a slab on ground is all so a monolithic slab, also a raft slab, an on fill slab and a Waffle Pod Slab. this link might also help docs.google.com/document/d/16XNkQf_K3-jrYWroU-YH0-PoRsV5pI0hvEKSbTfkM08/edit?usp=sharing
thanks heaps mate, there's few places one can go for knowledgeable advice on this sort of stuff. i was fairly sure i had it right until i was reading the termite standards AS3660.2 and it says (b) Slab-on-ground: Treatment of concrete slab-on-ground may present special problems, especially if the slab is laid on fill. slab on ground can only be laid on fill!
well done mate, Its lot to take away from your videos , Very simple and clear to understand too .. Thanks very much
@harjindermaan6515 thanks Mate, I'm glad you like them
I'm 100% convinced, that if our state and federal government were serious about housing affordability and building new houses to ease this, they should pay you (and others like you) at least $300,000 a year and give you a dedicated team and unlimited resources to pump out videos on how we construct quality houses in Australia.
Hi Mate, thanks for the suggestion however there will always be those who still want to take short cuts.
Prob the best insttuctional building vids on youtube yet! And very relivent to both Aus and NZ.
Thanks, John, glad to hear that you are finding them useful.
Buildsum, thank you very much for your quality videos and even more for passing on your experience and experiences in residential construction. You are doing fantastic work, keep it up, thanks again
RobertJohn Thanks Robert Glad you like the videos.
Nice use of Sketchup and great information for builders. They do make a metal bracket that slips over the edge board for a standard 150 rebate yet the method you show is a better way of doing it .
Hi Mate, thanks for the comment, yeah the brackets are quick but not as accurate as the method i have shown.
@@Buildsum Copy that, project home builders use them a lot as unfortunately, the quality is not their number one priority. Mate, we love your work, well done!
best construction videos on YT!
Thanks for your comment mate,
Really enjoy your videos. Helps me HUGELY for my apprenticeship. Thanks again
Thanks Mate, Great to hear!
i love your work ,downloaded all your videos last night...thank you on behalf of me and my children.
Love it, really helping with my revision for technical skills assessment. Some stuff that's lost there in my head but needs to be rejuvenated. Really appreciate these vids would be pretty lost without them.
Hi Steve, no problem, what course are you doing?
@@Buildsum It's for the 190 visa skills shortage. I've worked in a bit in UK NZ WA and now NSW, stage 1 is the experience gathering and stage 2 is the Technical skills assessment. I'm definitely more confident in explaining stuff than I was. My test is Next Monday just keep watching your vids on 1.75x speed 😄
Thanks Steve, sounds interesting, hope the videos are helping and good luck.
Excellent information. Thank you for your great work mate. It teaches a lot.
Thanks Mate, Glad it was helpful!
awesome video! easy to understand and very simple.
Thanks Mate
Well shown, thanks for the video!
Kudos to you guys, great info in all your videos, very helpful very accurate, love your work..... cheers
Great video, highly appreciate the time and effort.
it helps to see the build step by step. What would make this video extra-awesome would be to add the plumbing penos under the slab!
Hi Sue, thanks for your comment and thanks for the suggestion.
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks Mathew, I'm glad you like it.
Thanks!
Thanks Steve
Great video.
Thanks Alex, Glad you enjoyed it
That was helpful! Thank you.
Thanks Andrea, I'm glad you like it.
Invaluable!! Thanks so much for your videos - is there somewhere we can donate to keep this kind of content going.
Thanks Mate, no just keep watching videos
Will do! Can you tell me what plugins you use on Google Sketchup also?
Hi Sorry no plug ins everything is drawn from scratch
hi Buildsum, again, thanks for this great vid. Im wondering two more things about formwork. 1. How to form up a 50mm setdown for a screed in a wet area, and 2. how to form the 45 degree internal angle connection between 400mm deep perimeter edge beams and 100mm slab (in section view), if constructing a timber frame on a slab?
Hi Sue, the 50mm setdown would be formed up with temporary pegs that would be removed and the holes filled in, after the concrete has been poured and the first screed completed. The 45-degree internal angle is shaped into the ground or the waffle pod. I show this in this video czcams.com/video/0Um_Ttv95Ko/video.html
Hope this helps
@@Buildsum thanks yes it does help - I'l have to get the excavator to shape that in. Im assuming it doesn't have to be exactly 45 degrees - the Engineer did not specify anything about this angle, I just see that the slab needs to be thicker to avoid any shear forces
Hi Luke
I use Google Sketch Up to draw and animate the videos. I then record them and add the video with Adobe Captivate
Buildsum
Fantastic video Thanks ! i just have one question in regards to how to fasten the edge board to the ledger board using the two peg and ledger board system? its at 4.30min in the presentation . Thanks Grant
Hi Grant, You could just nail through the face of the edgeboard into the ledger however that will make pulling it apart hard with the concrete in position so the best idea is to skew nail through the ledger into the edgeboard. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum certainly has helped thanks heaps .
Hi John,
Great videos, really informative, thanks for putting these on line.
Would the slab be the same for a double brick house, as opposed to a brick veneer?
Cheers
Thanks Mate Glad you like them, hope they prove to be useful
Yes the Slab for double brick construction would be the same.
Hi,
I had a doubt at 10:29,
When the concrete is poured, won't some of it ooze out of the gap between the upper and lower formwork?
Thank you
Hi Mate, although it looks like it would I can assure you that it doesnt. Even when you pour steps the tops are left open to allow for finishing.
@@Buildsum Ah I see,
Thank you for your response.
Does the DPM water proofing layer not need to be installed prior the Poly Pods?
how much water comes out? because those floors shouldn't have water on them.
Hi, Sorry I'm not sure what you are asking. What water?
with the rebate, would you not put a board between the top of the edge board and the bottom of the rebate to stop concrete spilling out during the pour? great video though thanks
Hi, This may be a silly question What stops the concrete from spilling over througth the rebate? Is there some cloth or lining or is it too dense to spill out?
Hi Nermin, you would think that it would and if it was water then, of course, it would, however for reasons that I am not exactly sure about, it doesn't. As you say it is probably the density of the concrete that prevents it from overflowing the formwork.
im also wondering about the slab edge details for a timber framed construction, with set-in bifold doors? Im imaginging the slab with timber framing will just be square edge?
Hi Sue, yes, most likely however it would depend on the construction of the doors and the finish of the flooring. You might have to have a small step down in the slab to allow for the door tracks to finish flush with the floor.
@@Buildsum thanks, yes I've also checked with Allan Staines book, and it looks like square edge at the perimeter. Ive got a couple more questions for you which I'll posta bove, thank you
One question: Can you build your footing using bricks and then push mesh and rebars on top of that and then add concrete to save on concrete? Or can you build your footing without using any concrete and just use bricks and mortar?
For anything other than a decorative wall I would say No.
Yes I agree, thank you. So how you should dig the trench and do your formwork to avoid wastage of concrete?
Unless you want the footing to come out of the ground I would not worry about the formwork. To keep the excavation as accurate as possible digging by hand is best or if you need to use a machine to dig it with an undersized bucket and finish it off by hand.
Such a great answer. It completely makes sense. Thank you
what tolerance would you say is realistic when forming up?
Forming up a house slab myself thanks to your videos! thanks
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, look I would say 5 to 10mm at the most depending on the area. Remembering that your frame and or brickwork can't overhang the slab more than 20mm max and your cavity (if you have one) can't be any less then 20mm either I think, you need to be pretty accurate.
nice vid. Curious how they would stop the timber from leaving imprints on the lower step though...
Thanks Mate, generaly not a concern however if you were worried you could face the timber with Ply, making sure that you allow for the extra thickness of course.
@@Buildsum cheers. Whereabouts are you based anyway?
Hi Mate, i am in South west Sydney.
@@Buildsum oh sweet. I'm in Melbourne. Keep up the good work though :)
Thanks Mate.
When the concrete is poured wont the weight push the lower step up?
Hi Hank
There is not enough weight in the concrete on top to force it out of the step when it is mixed at the correct ratios. The wetter the mix the more likely it is to happen however it is not an issue.
just a question. No piering?
piering is generally only used where fill has been used to transferr the building load to a stable surface. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum thanks mate. Your videos are awesome. ♥️
Hey bud,
your videos are very useful. what program do you use?
Hi John,
When we use compact soil under the slab, how much top soil we need take out? and what 's kind of soil ok to refill and compact? THANKS.
Hi Roger
I would only take out all of the top soil until you get to good, compact soil, if this is too deep then you may have to get the slab designed for the soil type. Most soil can be used as fill as long as it is clean, free of organic matter and minimal clay content. There are also products like road base that will compact very well
Hey mate what depth do you generally put your rebates for a standard brick?
Hi Dion, I like to keep the rebate a least 2 courses of brickwork deep so 142mm and it needs to be 150mm wide, 110mm for the brick and then 40mm min for the cavity
Hope this helps
can you do a video on how to include the mesh and rio properly
Hi Mate, do any of these help, czcams.com/video/0Um_Ttv95Ko/video.html, czcams.com/video/tx90Zo0Xyds/video.html
Mono gram adikt 🔥
Thanks. Good work.
presented beautifully
hi John, do we need and membrane for termite and damp control before put mesh on?
Hi Roger
Yes, The moisture barrier should go down either under or over the top of the waffle pods before the mesh is installed and termite protection applied around the penetrations in the slab before it is poured. After the slab has been poured additional termite protection is applied to block the cavity
THANKS John,
for the penetrations of termite protection, is that mean chemical spray on the soil which under the slab? is that spry job has to be done by licensed pest controller and need grab a certificate for CERTIFY? I saw a TERMITE membrane product which will be laid the as same position as moisture barrier on top the infill soil, is this kind product better or cost too high?
Hi Roger
You can spray however all sprays nowadays have a limited life span so unless you can get back underneath the slab to reapply it they are not worth using.
Terimesh and similar products have collars that go around pipes to stop termites getting through. Yes, all termite systems must be installed by a licenced installer.
Kordon is a combination DPC and Termite barrier which can be used on the penetrations and perimeter the same way as Terimesh but would be very expensive to use as a waterproof membrane under the entire slab
good intentions but this drawing -sample don't show real life out on jobsite I build slabs and post tension slabs-floors and forming is not quite close to every day forming /reinforcement /pouring
Roger Zhang 🔥
Can anyone help me understand slab terminology, I've asked two builders only to find out I had more of a clue than they did...
in fill slab: a slab in which the masonry walls are used as the formwork
on fill slab: a slab which rests on a foundation as opposed to a suspended slab
slab on ground: a slab which rests on the foundation, and the walls rest on the slab rather than the footing
monolithic slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured in one
footing slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured separately
correct? I'm Australia based
Hi Scotty, Yes you are correct, some of the confusion comes because you could use 2 or 3 of those terms to describe the same slab, e.g. a slab on ground is all so a monolithic slab, also a raft slab, an on fill slab and a Waffle Pod Slab.
this link might also help
docs.google.com/document/d/16XNkQf_K3-jrYWroU-YH0-PoRsV5pI0hvEKSbTfkM08/edit?usp=sharing
thanks heaps mate, there's few places one can go for knowledgeable advice on this sort of stuff. i was fairly sure i had it right until i was reading the termite standards AS3660.2 and it says
(b) Slab-on-ground: Treatment of concrete slab-on-ground may present special problems, especially if the slab is laid on fill.
slab on ground can only be laid on fill!
Hi Scott, No you can put a slab on ground on a natural foundation as long as it is a suitable material
now i get it :)
What software is this
Hi Mate, I use SketchUp for all my drawings.
Is that what they call a Ribraft foundation?
+Mark Anthony I have never heard it called that, Here in Sydney we call it a Waffle pod because of the Polystyrene pods but it is a type of Raft Slab
Love it
slow method
Accurate method!
Kelly you must be using the Fast Metricon method.
Thanks!
Wow Steve, thanks for that, very Generous
@@Buildsum Well worth it, the information that you pass on through your channel is great and is certainly helping me with my project.
Thanks Steve, great to hear that it has helped.