Sewing a 1920s Capsule Wardrobe Update: Creating a Vintage Travel Collection
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 30. 06. 2024
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Earlier this year I started a 1920s capsule wardrobe to cover a 3 week trip to the UK and NYC with a vintage cruise in between! Ideally I'm not only going to take as little as possible, but have a wardrobe that can be part of my every day life as well. I started by making paper dolls of all of my ideas to try out the different ensembles that could be created from a relatively small palette of options- but now we've moved on to the real thing!
Though I've previously made a few key pieces such as the black suit, blue shoes, and even gloves, I had a VERY long list still left to go. So an intensive sewing week was just the ticket! I dragged my mother into assisting on the project and we managed 10 pieces in a very short time. Though I'm still missing some important items such as evening gowns and more shoes, I'm pretty well covered for day wear now.
This is also the point where the color scheme I chose really starts to show up. If you want to see more of the inspirations, colors, or renderings I did, there's a Pinterest board of it all here: / vintage-cruise
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00:00 Planning
05:38 Suits
09:01 Dresses
13:44 Layers
14:55 Blouses
19:06 What's Next? - Jak na to + styl
Just an info thing - my grandmother was a seamstress (couldn't afford a tailoring apprenticeship) in the UK. She started with making her own capsule wardrobe in that era (she was born 1902 so hit 18 at 1920, working full-time commenced aged 14) her answer to not turning all those tiny tubes was to use a toning curtain cord. Absolutely not haute couture, absolutely authentic to 1920s when there were many ladies that couldn't afford haute couture, but could afford for clothes to be made for them by a local seamstress.
Pressing over one long edge of the tube fabric, then rolling it into a tube from the opposite side, before whipstitching along the pressed edge saves turning, though it will probably create as much bulk as cord. Depends on how deft your fingers are/ how much patience you have. Cord or ribbon is much easier and quicker.
In my sophomore year of high school my mother commissioned a capsule wardrobe for a trip I took to the International Thespian Conference in 1982 as part of the delegation from my school. There was a pair of shorts, a reversible wrap skirt, a blouse, and a matching blouse with split skirt set made to my measurements in fabrics I chose. I was physically comfortable no matter where I was because everything FIT. None of it was peak fashion, though, and most pieces were impossible to alter as I filled out, so it all disappeared by the time I graduated.
What a special idea! I love that. I have seen contemporary business startups offering âcapsule wardrobesâ sets, but it would be a very unique offering to explore for people who are already sewing clothing commissions professionally, or for experienced hobby sewists to do as gifts for their family or friends on big occasions.
At least nowadays itâs easy to take photos with our phones, I so wish I had photos of the beautiful clothes my Mom made for me.
Reversible wrap skirts should make a comeback.
So glad to hear that you got to attend the ITC! I had the privilege of conducting a performance there featuring Josh Dallas! Yes, Once upon a time & manifest, that Josh Dallas.
I am impressed with your productivity and ability to adapt and modify your original plans. Your description of your decision for the red plaid suit suggests that any fabric should not be purchased for one outfit and one occasion. Well done !!. The ending with the pup was wonderful.
Speaking as someone who has never been a "dresses" or "skirts" person, I was really struck with the simple (for Nicole!) black silk dress - it has the same feel for me as the adapted man's suit trousers, a non-binary aesthetic that I could actually see myself wearing. I don't know what you've done to me Nicole, I think it must be witchcraft!!! Also, hello Nicole's Mum, thank you for helping our girl not tear out her hair with all that pleating!!
I do my own alterations, but I greatly miss the expert advice from my Mom, who died a few months ago. I love that you and your Mom sew together, we loved that, too, and she taught me all the sewing skills that I have, she even repaired my sewing machines when the Singer shop couldnât, she was a real pro. If my skills are not great, itâs only because I didnât seek to learn as much from her as I could have. But mostly, I just miss her company, love and support and the great fun we always had together. We even went out for shopping and lunch just a few weeks before she died. Iâm trying to recover, but itâs hard, Iâm 62, but still her little girl, forever.
I'm so sorry for your loss! My 90 year old mother is in the hospital right now and we were told to say our goodbyes several days ago. She seems to be rallying now. Like you, I learned to sew at my mom's knee...pretty literally, standing next to her while she used her sewing machine! Some great memories!
I'm so sorry. Losing your mum is very hard at any age. (I turned 30 the week I lost my mum) . I found lighting a candle and talking to her helped ease the pain. Now every time I sew I feel closer to her. My heart goes out to you. This is a hard time. Be kind to yourself.
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Nicole, How I WISH you could have heard my oohs and ahs as you revealed each new item!!! Everything turned out gorgeous! đđ
I love that you worked on this project with your mother. Those are precious memories that will make this trip even more special.
Same. All the oohs and aahs.
Will you make a Look Book style video with a record of your daily outfits on the cruise? Iâd love to see the capsule in action!
Me too. That would be great to have a record of what Nicole chose to wear from her capsule for each day and event.
This would be a lovely treat! All of this hard work shown off for the accomplishment it is.
From what I've read about the 1920s, in certain social circles *every* dress was a cocktail dress.
I love seeing the progression of your capsule plan, The suit change from plaid to the burgundy is a good one and the blouses are so complimentary. Very much looking forward to see how this all comes together, What you have done so far is amazing.
This is definitely an ambitious project with a very fixed deadline. A period transalantic cruise sounds like a lot of fun, and since it is themed in the 1920s instead of 1910s you don't have to worry about it becoming a titanic recreation.
And have have a cigerette holder. So nice.
This is amazing--obviously you are a queen, and your garments are gorgeous. But what I appreciate most is you being so transparent about changing your plans, asking for help, and how organized yu have to stay to achieve all this. It really underscores that you are a real person, that you are so skilled because of all of your practice and hard work, and even with that you still operate within limitations. Your channel is the perfect balance, for me, of inspiration without condescention while still maintaining a calm and polished aesthetic. All that to say, I love this journey, and thank you for sharing it.
Are we sure you didn't work on the wardrobe for Miss Fischer's Murder Mysteries? Chef's kiss.
That velvet is divine! Such a great way to reuse the fabric. That green is also amazing! (All the exclamation points đ)
Looking forward to seeing the rest. Itll be fun to see the whole crew together in all your outfits!
I'm looking forward to the day when you announce you are launching your own label. The excitement we get from the garments and shoes you make show that a lot of us are unimpressed with what passes for fashion now. You've inspired me to put on a dress today.
I'm making our full outfits for two weekends of the ren faire (4 total outfits) and the day the plans were made in late July I announced that I had to start that day. My spouse didn't get it, until he saw the work starting. I've only finished the hoods and a completely unrelated 50s dress lmao. This video is so relatable it hurts!
can't believe you're knitting those pieces yourself! incredible skill. excited to see how this wardrobe turns out đ
The fact that you have accomplished all of this already, and with this amount of eye to detail and to the set as a whole. Not to mention you adapting and changing stuff along the way. I am so impressed! And it all fits your vibe so incredibly well!
That is the biggest benefit of creating your own wardrobe, even if you have to pay someone else to make the items. You choose the fabrics, colours, patterns that you like. Apply them to the styles that suit you and make them to fit your body without pulling or gaping. Cost of materials can be the same, or more, than buying equivalent ready made. The extra time/effort/money gives you a bespoke wardrobe that looks good for years, feels very comfortable and is totally flattering. The commercial price tag for that is found on Saville Row with its made to measure suits. So you can get really nice fabrics and make a whole wardrobe for the cost of one good suit. A true bargain.
The great thing about sewing with high quality fabrics is that one is highly motivated to re-work makes that are no longer working.
I'm obsessed with the buttons on that beautiful green-gold blouse oh my GOD. Really enjoyed this update, I hope the next couple months go as smoothly as possible and that the trans-Atlantic adventure is everything you want it to be!
â€ïž the cranberry suit. And the blue is beeeaaautiful! Such nice blouses.
ACCESSORIES
â Jewelry-- hit the bead shop. Glass beads in 3 colors, notions--make opera length necklace; cuff bracelet (or 2) with 3 separate strands; 2 different pairs of earrings, with a replacement for each. That takes care of evening jewelry.
Can also make hatpins if you need to.
Day jewelry, again mix'n'match colors; or neutral. Can do a LOT in 1 night.
Dog collar; Egyptian collar; is a lot more work. But so pretty.
Definitely need brooches for pretty and pinning scarf/hat band/etc.
If it comes down to the wire......
Handbags--if it is right shape::
what about covering with fabric? Spray glue, iron on adhesive?
Fabric spray paint on texture? Will kill patent-leather look, match your shoes, etc.
Then clear coat and it will last thru cruise. Cannibalise old purse or new junk purse.
Evening bags are simple, just fancy fabric pouch with bling.
Wow! You and your mom have gotten so much done. I'm impressed!
These clothes all look so good on you. They look properly 1920s, but most of them will also fit in well in the 2020s.
thanks for the update. Sometimes we have to adjust or work around, or plans change so it is great to see how you figured things out once you began making pieces. I love the two-piece dress and the suits the most.
Wow! So much finished in so little time. Hooray to your Mom for lending her hands and skill. Excited to see your photos/video(s) after the actual trip. The details of the "Yellow"* blouse are exquisite! I had to zoom in to see if the gathers were just that or ruffles. Such a neat visual effect. The buttons being multicolored, the applique, and the ribbon....I celebrate your design mind perspective! It's refreshing to see the originality in a wardrobe designed for oneself. Grateful for you, once again, sharing your knowledge and expertise in the art of your apparel.
*My eyes perceived the color as Chartreuse.
That blouse looks ridiculously gorgeous and someday I hope I see well enough to work with such a fiddly-looking fabric. I'm glad I wasn't the only one checking the color settings on my screen because it looked more chartreuse than yellow. đ
Mine, too.
The 1920s silhouettes look really good on Nichole. Itâs good to see a non-gamine body type wearing 1920s pieces so well. We often think of a petite and straight body in regards to this period, but that is a very small minority of figures.
The new suit fits in nicely looks like the flecks of color fit in with your color scheme well. Love your Robins Egg Blue dress compromise, the jacket looks like it was really difficult, but worth the effort. really looking forward to seeing pics from the promenade or a full runway show when you get back if you have too much fun to film! Happy Creating!
The number of pieces you have completed so far is astonishing! I love the green crepe dress.
A period steamer trunk would be perfect to pack your wardrobe into đđ.
Amazing! I love that your mom came to help out. Delightful! Loving how this is all coming together, and feeling inspired to work on a back-to-school capsule myself!
Such a busy bee. Your mom helping you with the marathon was so nice. I love the blouses. Well thought out, beautifully embellished in their simplicity. You haven't mentioned an overcoat. You already have one? Remember gloves. Kid for outside wear and a long evening pair with pearl buttons or embellishments. Can hardly wait to see the jewelry. 1910 Jewelry Company may have some drool worthy pieces. :)
Oh my goodness!!! I love that green suit!! ^.^ And the blue it so pretty and the shoes!!! Amazing
I love how put together you seem to be while planning for this trip. Honestly, I'd be freaking out because of procrastination. I'm sure that inside you really are freaking out but are pressing on regardless. I admire that. So many times I'd be up the night before a trip making something I should have made weeks before. Oh, and FYI, the Robin's Egg Blue dress and jacket both look like a light green on my computer. Same for the shoes you made in last week's video.
Some of my favorite memories of my time with my mother were days spent sewing wardrobes and gowns.... I'm glad you two have had that opportunity, as well. The buttons on the gold blouse and the embroidery details on your black suit... sigh. Perfection! I really look forward to seeing your gowns. This is going to be the cruise of a lifetime! Will your red and black flapper booties work into your wardrobe somewhere? I've always thought those were stunning.
The Long-haired Flapper has a tonne of extant makeup making videos! I love her content, and wish she had a bigger audience because she has been on youtube for almost a decade now and she absolutely deserves it!! đ„°â€
Growing up o never realized how nice it is to have curly hair. I get a perfect 20s bob just by getting it cut and then letting it dry. Now all I need is a wardrobe to suit.
Iâve been writing stories set in the 1919-1939 era and this has been immensely helpful getting a feel for what sheâd likely be wearing. Thank you for sharing!
Wow, you got a lot done, but it seems thereâs a lot more to do. It will be a great-looking vintage wardrobe! I love and miss those beautiful, vintage braids, they were still for sale in the 60s, but now they can only be found at vintage shops, and theyâre mostly off-cuts, maybe just enough to trim a collar or hat. I also am always looking for silk brocades of the right scale and silk velvets or cotton velveteens without synthetic fibers. (Silk brocades for interiors can be purchased through desIgners, but the scale is almost always wrong for clothing, then the quantity doesnât come up to the minimum order, and the designerâs fee adds to the cost, too). In the 70s, as a teenager, I had a super-trendy black velveteen blazer that was 100% cotton, thatâs the last time I ever saw a new garment made of that great fabric. In the 80s, when I began my career, all suits were made of 100% wool gabardine, lined with rayon, and had skirts, not trousers, which was great. Blouses and shirts were usually silk, polyester wasnât everywhere yet. Even had I kept these clothes, I couldnât fit them now. The quality of clothing has just plummeted over the last four decades. I rely on Lily Silk a lot, but the skirt/trouser/dress selection is poor, itâs mostly tops. I miss quality fabrics and trims!
The blouses are all to die for! Would you ever consider releasing patterns for those? I can't wait to see the evening gowns.
I love everything in your collection. Thank goodness for Mom help. I'm looking forward to seeing how you made x and match, so much fun!
As a non-violent person who isn't the biggest fan of 1920s style and who also holds you in high regard. If I saw you walking down the street with this wardrobe in a suitcase, I would 100% mug you for it. the green suit is everything and then some. the whole thing so far is seriously amazing .
OK, when do you sleep? Even with help from your Mom, that is still an impressive amount of work you have turned out, and every piece is stunning. I don't usually care much for the 1920s styles, but you have made this look interesting and chic. Hoping you post tons of images and video during the cruise, I don't think I have ever been so envious in my life as I am of those of you going on the trip! I hope you have an incredible time. Thanks for letting us live vicariously through you. Well done.
Your intros are so soothing. I feel like I am sitting down with a cup of tea and watching Masterpiece Theater- all positive
Go Nicole and Mom! Love all of them, especially the "little black dress".
Would love a ootd montage type video, from the trip.they can be still shots rather than video... just want to see the combinations, styling etc
Iâm so impressed with your historical capsule wardrobe! Well done and thanks for sharing your thought process in the planning! I look forward to seeing all the outfits in their natural habitat, the 1920s transatlantic cruise.
"natural habitat"!! Heehee, I love that!!
The dog tax at the end is greatly appreciated.
I think out of everything so far the simplicity of the rust blouse is my favorite
That is a blizzard of creations made in one week. Well done to you and your Mum. They are beautiful; can't wait to see the final reveals. Good luck with the rest of the to-do list.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Oooo....that green suit. So beautiful! And that dress with the shoes from last week. So pretty, super inspired!
Loooove the metallic olive shirt! It looks so good on you!
Thanks Nicole's Mum for your help!
I love seeing the progress of this and love the work you've done.
I love it all! Simple but classy. Everything is also super wearable in "modern times" too đ
I fully support your decision to drop the red and black plaid for now. I was dubious in the last video though you absolutely would have made it work. The cranberry is a perfect substitute.
I love what youâre doing so much, I only wish we say more of the construction of the garments.
Mum's are the best. Your mum was a star to help you out.
your hair would look sooooo cute in clara bow's style. her curly and fluffy, tousled wedge/bob is so modern even for today...the photo i have in my head. the style isn't oiled down and severe, it's loose, kind of wind blown...causal, the cut is so good it's styling is mostly care free....
It's coming together really well! Thank goodness for moms!
All the items in your capsule wardrobe so far look great!
I'm getting married in October, so when you said it was fast approaching I started panicking a bit because I'm only halfway done with my wedding outfit. đ
I can't wait to see the second dress, the moment I saw that red fabric with the floral detail i started drooling because the fabric was so gorgeous!
Ooooh that wool crepe jacket and dress...dribble dribble dribble. Awesome!
You are amazing! I just bought a new sewing machine and plan to start sewing my own clothes again. You are my inspiration!
I recently left nearly everything I owned behind leaving a really bad DV situation. I have a single dress and a pair of ratty jeans and have been trying to find new clothes. This is a good opportunity to actually buy clothes I am comfortable in. My personal style I am most comfortable in is 1950s/1960s-ish (although I think the Marie Antoinette era dresses are the most beautiful clothing of all time). I hate wearing pants due to having sort of an odd body type so I constantlyyyy have to pull them up. I hope I like everything when it comes in. It took me forever to find pleated/gathered skirts that werenât made of terrible polyester!
100% the plaid suite would be perfect for December.
You have now made me OBSESSED with that particular duck egg blue! It's divine! Currently working on a checkerboard inlay for a side table and will absolutely insert duck egg squares now
I love your dog!! I also love all of the items you've made and I am amazed at how much your Mother and you accomplished. Everything is period perfect and is going to look great at anytime, not just the trip. Will you consider letting us know where you purchased the fabrics, except of course the fabric you took from previous outfits that don't fit anymore. The trim on the black blouse was so pretty and looked great on the blouse. Everything fit so nicely, especially the pants; those are amazing. Congrats and I am looking forward to seeing the up coming videos with your progress. I am sending hopeful and supportive thoughts your way!!
Your makeup and hair right now are perfect. Just wear them this way.
Shoutout to your mom!
Way to go Nicole's Mother! Looks like the two of you got quite a lot done. The clothes are looking yummy. I can't wait to see the evening dresses/outfits.
The fabric on that tweed is such a beautiful color. âșïž
Moms for the win! Glad you got some help, this is ambitious and turning out great!
Such beautiful work and delightful design choices that reflect your personal design aesthetic within that era's boundaries. And I am so glad you had your mother's help. I am jealous a bit if I am honest. I miss mine; she had been gone for 30 years now. She used to make me such beautiful clothes when I was younger. I can only imagine the sewing shenanigans we would get into if she were still here. â€ïž I don't know if I missed her yet, in that way, until I saw your and your mom sewing together.
Enjoy!! So glad you had her time and help. đ
Your look in the framing is GORGEOUS. That string of jet is everything.
I appreciate how much thought you put into your work. It makes the end result so much more successful. I can't wait to see the evening dresses you create.
Sooooo inspiring!! Thanks for the update. đ
Thank you so much for this series! I make most of my clothes and It's so fascinating to watch how you planned your wardrobe, see which items you made and how they turned out (gorgeous!) I forgot how comfortable 1920's styles were, and it's encouraging to see them looking great on shapely woman's body. I think of the ethereally slim women in Erte's illustrations when I think of 1920's fashion, which made me hesitate to consider them as an option.
I know youâre going to be very busy for the rest of the year, but I was watching another interest of mine (articulated dolls) and a maker showed their process for shoemaking. It wasnât the same level of effort by far, and Iâm sure itâs very different, but a lot of the processes seemed similar and I thought making a small pair of doll-sized lasts/shoes would be interesting for you while also not incredibly taxing or expensive. I donât know if your other subscribers would enjoy it, but I suspect that even if they arenât fans of dolls, the novelty and crossover with fashion doll history would still garner you some watchers.
czcams.com/video/8qUVy4eBElU/video.html
The link in case you actually read this :D
A fascinating update! The dress and trouser suit combinations are just so smart and dynamic ~ they sum up the era. I especially love the ones with contrasting details. Those shimmering silk blouses are so glamourous. As for those ballgown fabrics, I can't wait to see how you showcase their delicacy with the draping and under slips. Whilst in your work-room don't forget to cut yourself some slack (British humour...oh dear!)
Oh WOW!!!! that is a great wardrobe. I think the hairstyle you had today is very 1920s-ish.
Incredibly beautiful. You should start a clothing line. People would absolutely buy it.
Holy cow, where has the time gone?! Every piece is stunning, Nicole. Your mom is a true hero; you might want to keep her around to help fly through the rest of the garments. LOL! I am so excited about this trip, and I'm not even going. Eat well, get plenty of sleep, and make lots of coffee; you've got this!
xoxo's Sandieđ€
Wow!!! I want to say stop filming and editing and sew lady sew!!! Thank you for taking the extra time to make the content on top of what you are doing. So much work! Great job.
Yay I love this update! I really like all the blouses, but the yellow blouse is my favorite it's absolutely beautiful
Amazing capsule. Kudos to your mom for helping! Please take all the pics!
You're going to look so fantastic! I hope you don't experience much, if any, seasickness!
This might seem like an out there question, but are you taking along any period accurate perfumes? I think it would be interesting if you talked about that. The 1920's was a really interesting era in perfumery and I guess I'd like to hear your take on it.
Genuinely floored by how much youâre getting done!!
Clearly, you've been having fun! So nice to get your mom to help. Some of the pieces I really like. In particular that cream silk blouse. Can't wait for the final reveal.
Thank you Harry đ and sounds like a Big thank you to your Mom! đ Her workmanship is outstanding! The green pleated blouse gorgeous đ! Hope you payed her well â€. The maroon top I want one to wear now! Love it lol. Your suits are impeccable. The pants, well both of them, but the ones based off of the men's wear style very interesting. The other pair work just fine. They look great and seem like they would be comfortable. Good job Nicole. Hope you enjoy your trip....? Do you consider it a working trip or vacation? Either way
I was wondering that a bit as well, ha. How does one navigate that? My mother and I have swapped work on occasion - I knit up a kit she got for Christmas and wasn't thrilled by, since I knit much faster (minus blocking and trim), and she darned some socks for me since I don't know how and she actually enjoys it. But it's a bit different if your mother is helping you with something you do for a living.
Sounds like a good moment to reach out and ask your friends if they would want to try their hands at making some 1920s accessories.
One of my most favorite fashion videos you have made so far So damn excited for these garments
That cranberry tweed jacket is *chef's kiss*.
Gorgeous clothes. Impressive work. Would have loved longer-duration shots of the garments.
Hopefully, we'll get that later! This was a keeping-us-in-the-loop video!
I love all the colours happening in the wardrobe and this video in general! so moody but so vibrant.
Beautiful clothing. The black suit looks especially handsome.
I've been so looking forward to this update and am excited to see it all coming together. Love the suits, but I was particularly impressed with the blouses; they add so much variety and will ultimately be what's going to make the whole wardrobe work.
Wowowow. This is my favorite capsule wardrobe, current, historical, all of it. I want every piece. Off to make my black suit.
I love the designs of all of your clothes. You have a great eye for shape, as well as for picking the right fabric for the right piece. Any chance you would be open to a live stream of you doing the research for a specific garment -- sorting through archives and picking a design you'd like and discussing how you might change it to suit your needs? It doesn't need a clean narrative or a resolution...I think I could learn a lot just hearing your thought process as it unfolds.
Your work is wonderful! I'm so pleased and excited for you, Abby and Noelle to be going on this lovely trip. I'm just sooo jolly pleased such a thing exists and that people will be able to share their expertise and experiences, and have some well-deserved fun. I learn so much watching your youtube chanel and your historical research is fascinating. I really appreciate all the time and work your put in to creating and sharing information with all of us. Thank you!
The green dress and jacket combo seems to be a good compromise, and honestly the jacket would be cute over a separate outfit too.
The tunic is gorgeous and admittedly is something I would totally wear. Really looking forward to the duster-style overpiece as well.
I use a standard safety razor myself, so does my husband. They are around 10c a blade. So I can use a new one every time!
Weâre so excited to see all the final outfits! I think the change to the burgundy suit was a good one, itâs much more versatile than the red and black check, which can be added later. Also, the jumper dress could only be styled in a few ways. Canât wait to see the evening dresses! How inspiring your videos are! I want to buy some nice fabrics and make the skirts I want, but canât find in shops anywhere: a simple brown silk, and a neutral-colored-plaid that isnât a micro-mini. Iâm not going to attempt pleats until I build up my skills and confidence, much of my sewing has been for home decorating from my homeâs measurements and my own simple designs, which is a lot easier than using and adjusting patterns to fit a human body. Could you give tips for sewing silk? Iâm intimidated, itâs too expensive to make big mistakes with! I suppose I should make a calico first, out of cheap poly or something that has a similar weight, drape and hand.
Wow you and your mum got a lot done, and you had already got plenty done to that point. I think not doing the plaid is a good move, do it justice when you have time and as you say it would have been the hard piece to style around. The shirts all look great and as you say aren't plain or boring.