Scott another great video! What a tough comparison. I'm hard pressed to see a 'huge' difference. If it came down to only money, I'd have to say the AO is perfect. The TO does look the tiniest bit better, but not for 3 times the price, I'd expect a larger difference. The CO looks lovely also, but again, not enough of a difference for the money.
I’m with you on that one. Aluminum oxide does a fine job. I’m about to upload the video showing the other rocks that were used in making the video which went through all three polishes over 6 days. How do you think those turned out………..😉
This was great Scott, thanks. Just beginning my rock adventure, so much to learn. Could you share where you get your iron oxide, I am in Canada and have found it very expensive here.
That is an interesting experiment, thanks. I would offer two suggested changes should you want to try this again. 1st. use cut pieces so you have a consistent flat surface for your reflection test. 2nd. include Optical Grade Cerium Oxide as part of your polishing mediums. However, I agree all of them produced an acceptable polish, so why spend more if you don't really need to. Since I do mostly flats and cabochons and only have one buffing wheel I exclusively use Optical Grade Cerium Oxide for my final polish. Thanks again.
I am really glad that you did this…It is very helpful. I guess you would have to run this experiment multiple times to weed out the innumerable “micro-variables” but your results here are pretty telling and solid. I wonder if the results would vary much polishing them in a tumbler instead of a vibe? I would assume not. One other question if you don’t mind…I have an opportunity to purchase a UV-18 and have been told that the UV-10 will be out of stock indefinitely. Since I would have 5 3 lb barrels rolling stage one rocks, do you think it would be too much vibe for me? I appreciate the input!
@@gatchrocks That is great…You are one of the lucky ones. I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the UV-18. This will be my excuse to get a larger rotary tumbler. Haha
Thanks Peter. I’m sure you could get an equal polish using a rotary tumbler but it would take longer and require more grit. I think the UV-18 would be perfect for you. You can always add ceramic anytime you want to run a smaller load. It’s definitely better than the Raytech although the Raytech can still give you good results. Good luck!
Maybe a microscope would be a better tool for comparison. It’s hard to tell when the rocks are shaped differently. Good experiment. I always wondered this myself.
Thanks for watching Rachael! You’re right, I definitely could have made a better comparison. I will make a new video someday which will be much improved 😉.
Did you use the same quantity for each polish? I know you normally add 1 TBS of AO / 1 TBS of Borax and was curious if you did the same with the CO and TO as well? I've used TO as my final polish and found I could use as little as 1 TSP and still get great results.
Hi Daniel. Thanks for watching. I did use the same radio for each batch which was about a tablespoon of each polish and the borax. I could probably use less but the formula works and I’ve got plenty.
@@spwinaustin ..yes but if you only needed half tin oxide, the outcome would again vary. Ie cost gap closes, therefore,well you get it. So good to see the results side by side, thanks, it was helpful.
Hey again, I agree about the light. I’ll do another video some day and make several adjustments to improve the test. I don’t know the exact grit but they are all in the 1 micron range so approximately 14,000. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you for sharing, very informative. I’ve switched to TO exclusively. It produces a brilliant finish and SIMPLY WASHES OFF WITH WATER ALONE whereas the AO and especially the CO need burnishing or aggressive cleaning with soap.
Agreed, the main argument will always be the cost/benefit analysis and I suppose that’s going to be left up to each person’s criteria. Thanks for watching!
I would love to see you do this again and compare the following: You standard recipe with all the Silicone carbide VS Stage 1 60/90 till smooth then jump to the following in the vibe Stage 2 220 Silicone carbide Stage 3 500 Aluminum Oxide Stage 4 1000 Aluminum Oxide Stage 5 Aluminum Oxide Polish. Just to see which gives you the best wet look candy coat mirror shine.
Hi Vance, I like your idea. I’m sure I’ll do another one in the future and incorporate something like that, along with some other changes to the way I analyze them for comparison. I noticed several things I would change after watching it back on the big screen 😩.
Do you have a refractometer it will give a scientific number of the exact amount of light reflected back there is also another tool I can't remember name after stroke I have one but gives a actual reflected light in a enclosed environment that says the exact amount of light reflected in percentage
Hi David. Thanks for watching! I do not have that equipment but I was I did since it would definitely improve the experiment, that’s for sure. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@spwinaustin I have two spares one older but works great would be happy to send it with some other spare tools and I'd inclined you can send me a couple pieces of your work in return I would also live to send a ring with a illusion cube the ring and collet are made from two different quarters same year so not precious metals and is a golden or imperial topaz lol it is a fine line if enough red imperial if not quite it's golden like a seller we wants to say the color is a ruby and buyer wants to say pink sapphire because pricing and gie GIA AGI don't agree on a standard so it is up to buyer and seller to determine lol but it would be a honor I enjoy your videos and have some great diagnostic tools from earlier days that I now have much more advanced quality and technology
That is very kind of you to make such a generous offer, thank you. Right now I’m in the process of setting up a whole new lapidary shop in my new house so things are a bit hectic but I will definitely keep your offer in mind. Thanks again.
Without an exact flat surface on each rock with each type of abrasive this comparison has no value. The angles vary too much between the surfaces being compared to the testing matrix. A microscope with an exact distance could show any differences, but even then you would need to polish rocks cut in half then comparing the flat edges from the cuts after polishing. If you are doing this for fun the difference between the polishing abrasive id so inconsequential that price would be the driving force in the purchase choice.
Cool experiment Scott! As always, fantastic shine. Thanks for sharing!✌️🤠🤟
Thanks Kyla!
Exactly the comparison I was looking for. Thanks for the effort and time spent on your experiment and for sharing the results.
You are most welcome, thank you for watching!
Scott another great video! What a tough comparison. I'm hard pressed to see a 'huge' difference. If it came down to only money, I'd have to say the AO is perfect. The TO does look the tiniest bit better, but not for 3 times the price, I'd expect a larger difference. The CO looks lovely also, but again, not enough of a difference for the money.
I’m with you on that one. Aluminum oxide does a fine job. I’m about to upload the video showing the other rocks that were used in making the video which went through all three polishes over 6 days. How do you think those turned out………..😉
This was very helpful, many thanks
I’m so glad I could help Cynthia, thank you for watching!
Great information Scott. I have C.O. but have never used it. I think Ill give it a try. A.O. is my go to polish. Thanks again..
Thanks Jerry, and you can’t go wrong with AO!
Love the experiment!😊
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it!
I like your method for your experiments.
Thanks! I have a few ideas how to improve it the next time I make a similar video.
The experiment worked well! They all look fantastic! I'm glad I picked up some Cerium oxide. Very similar though.
Yup, honestly there isn’t much of a difference between them. Thanks for watching!
This was great Scott, thanks. Just beginning my rock adventure, so much to learn. Could you share where you get your iron oxide, I am in Canada and have found it very expensive here.
Hi Sandy, thanks for watching! I buy most of my lapidary supplies from Kingsley North. They have a great selection of grits and polishes.
That is an interesting experiment, thanks. I would offer two suggested changes should you want to try this again. 1st. use cut pieces so you have a consistent flat surface for your reflection test. 2nd. include Optical Grade Cerium Oxide as part of your polishing mediums. However, I agree all of them produced an acceptable polish, so why spend more if you don't really need to. Since I do mostly flats and cabochons and only have one buffing wheel I exclusively use Optical Grade Cerium Oxide for my final polish. Thanks again.
Thanks for the feedback! Yup, I agree, there are definitely some changes I will make if I make another video like this.
I am really glad that you did this…It is very helpful. I guess you would have to run this experiment multiple times to weed out the innumerable “micro-variables” but your results here are pretty telling and solid. I wonder if the results would vary much polishing them in a tumbler instead of a vibe? I would assume not. One other question if you don’t mind…I have an opportunity to purchase a UV-18 and have been told that the UV-10 will be out of stock indefinitely. Since I would have 5 3 lb barrels rolling stage one rocks, do you think it would be too much vibe for me? I appreciate the input!
I was able to buy one a few months ago. UV10.
@@gatchrocks That is great…You are one of the lucky ones. I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the UV-18. This will be my excuse to get a larger rotary tumbler. Haha
Thanks Peter. I’m sure you could get an equal polish using a rotary tumbler but it would take longer and require more grit. I think the UV-18 would be perfect for you. You can always add ceramic anytime you want to run a smaller load. It’s definitely better than the Raytech although the Raytech can still give you good results. Good luck!
@@spwinaustin Got the seal of approval. Thanks! I just ordered a bunch of ceramics for the UV-18.
Maybe a microscope would be a better tool for comparison. It’s hard to tell when the rocks are shaped differently. Good experiment. I always wondered this myself.
Thanks for watching Rachael! You’re right, I definitely could have made a better comparison. I will make a new video someday which will be much improved 😉.
Very cool work. I wonder what a gloss meter would have to say; shame they are so expensive.
Thanks for the idea 🤔. I might have to try that. Thank you for watching!
That was very interesting. I offended wondered the difference.
I’m glad you found it interesting. I guess the bottom line is there isn’t too much of a difference 🤷♂️.
@@spwinaustin the results was very surprising to me
Já sou seu admirador amigo
Thanks Gilberto!
Did you use the same quantity for each polish? I know you normally add 1 TBS of AO / 1 TBS of Borax and was curious if you did the same with the CO and TO as well? I've used TO as my final polish and found I could use as little as 1 TSP and still get great results.
Hi Daniel. Thanks for watching. I did use the same radio for each batch which was about a tablespoon of each polish and the borax. I could probably use less but the formula works and I’ve got plenty.
@@spwinaustin ..yes but if you only needed half tin oxide, the outcome would again vary. Ie cost gap closes, therefore,well you get it. So good to see the results side by side, thanks, it was helpful.
The color has dramatic effect in your testing also what is the grit of each that was used
Hey again, I agree about the light. I’ll do another video some day and make several adjustments to improve the test. I don’t know the exact grit but they are all in the 1 micron range so approximately 14,000. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you for sharing, very informative. I’ve switched to TO exclusively. It produces a brilliant finish and SIMPLY WASHES OFF WITH WATER ALONE whereas the AO and especially the CO need burnishing or aggressive cleaning with soap.
Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
The TO looks the best, but is it really a huge deal for that much money difference?
Agreed, the main argument will always be the cost/benefit analysis and I suppose that’s going to be left up to each person’s criteria. Thanks for watching!
Do you use a vibratory tumbler? If so, do you add borax to your pre-polish and polish runs? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching! I do, and I do add Borax to the 600, 1500, and 14,000 grit stages to help thicken the slurry.
@@spwinaustin Thanks!
I would love to see you do this again and compare the following:
You standard recipe with all the Silicone carbide
VS
Stage 1 60/90 till smooth then jump to the following in the vibe
Stage 2 220 Silicone carbide
Stage 3 500 Aluminum Oxide
Stage 4 1000 Aluminum Oxide
Stage 5 Aluminum Oxide Polish.
Just to see which gives you the best wet look candy coat mirror shine.
Hi Vance, I like your idea. I’m sure I’ll do another one in the future and incorporate something like that, along with some other changes to the way I analyze them for comparison. I noticed several things I would change after watching it back on the big screen 😩.
@@spwinaustin For what its worth, they all looked awesome, but to my eye on the screen it looked like the TO give the best shine.
Do you have a refractometer it will give a scientific number of the exact amount of light reflected back there is also another tool I can't remember name after stroke I have one but gives a actual reflected light in a enclosed environment that says the exact amount of light reflected in percentage
Hi David. Thanks for watching! I do not have that equipment but I was I did since it would definitely improve the experiment, that’s for sure. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@spwinaustin I have two spares one older but works great would be happy to send it with some other spare tools and I'd inclined you can send me a couple pieces of your work in return I would also live to send a ring with a illusion cube the ring and collet are made from two different quarters same year so not precious metals and is a golden or imperial topaz lol it is a fine line if enough red imperial if not quite it's golden like a seller we wants to say the color is a ruby and buyer wants to say pink sapphire because pricing and gie GIA AGI don't agree on a standard so it is up to buyer and seller to determine lol but it would be a honor I enjoy your videos and have some great diagnostic tools from earlier days that I now have much more advanced quality and technology
That is very kind of you to make such a generous offer, thank you. Right now I’m in the process of setting up a whole new lapidary shop in my new house so things are a bit hectic but I will definitely keep your offer in mind. Thanks again.
The ten oxide looks better
I agree, and thanks for watching!
Without an exact flat surface on each rock with each type of abrasive this comparison has no value. The angles vary too much between the surfaces being compared to the testing matrix. A microscope with an exact distance could show any differences, but even then you would need to polish rocks cut in half then comparing the flat edges from the cuts after polishing. If you are doing this for fun the difference between the polishing abrasive id so inconsequential that price would be the driving force in the purchase choice.
You’re definitely correct and I will make lots of changes for my next polish comparison video. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!