GMC Sierra control arm replacement
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2022
- Rather simple and straightforward replacement of all the front control arms
#wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching #wrenchingwithkenny #gmctrucks #advanceautoparts #autozone #oreillyautoparts #chevytrucks #chevy #gmcsierra #chevysilverado #chevysuburban #chevytahoe #suspension - Auta a dopravní prostředky
After I replaced the upper control arms on my 97 f150, I purchased a leveling camber tool off Amazon and chambered it as good as possible. When I took it to the alignment shop a guy asked me who replaced the control arms. He said one was spot on, the other was just like a couple degrees off. That tool worked, but it was a bit difficult to use. The tool has a magnet that attaches to the front rotors with a level built into it. Once you calibrate the tool off a perfectly vertical surface, attach it to a rotor and simply look for zero degrees on the bubble like a level.
pretty neat
Great information as usual! Thank You Kenny ❤
great video
Great video!!!
good vid Kenny
Happy Friday! ! ! !
How can I get the camber bolts out if one is totally seized in . I've been beating the f out of it and it won't budge . Other came out with a light tap
Vented rotor to remove the cv axle nut. Great 👍 ideal
Good Video but, I dont understand not tightening the lower control arm bolts. There is no adjustment slot there, it is a fixed hole with 5/8 bolt fixed position with no adjustment. like you said, just snug until you get ride height, then torque to spec. i think (not sure) is 140-160 ft lbs, its my experience (2018 Sierra) alignment guys don't touch lower control arm bolts on this design.
Important tip for the diy watching this. Don't install the wheel without the center cap to tighten the axle nut. The weight of the vehicle will make it so you won't get a proper torque, and the likelihood of the bearing getting ruined is much higher. Put a punch in the rotor or use a pry bar on the studs
Late but on the lower control arm by the ball joint where the control are is circular I see a like crack space. Is that suppose to be there or is it cracked? Ask bcz recently I hit a curb and not sure if that crack is factory. Thank you!
I think you are referring to the seam in the arm itself . Thats completely normal
@ 9:25 The bolt head should be facing the FRONT of the vehicle. Where you are pointing is where the thick, beveled washer goes.
I'm glad I found your comment. I was going to possibly add a washer on the head side of the bolt. As it is on that truck makes me nervous. Thanks for the tip.
Incorrect. The nut is facing the front of the truck on LCA for both bolts. You wouldn’t get it past the stabilizer bar the other way.. also the washer goes on the nut side , not bolt side………………… factory settings ……………. Most of these videos are incorrect from A1 auto ,etc.. Kenny is usually spot on
@@Cil374 I'm delivering information from first hand experience, not from another video. Once you get the nut off and you start working the bolt out it clears.
@@TriStarGearhead I’m a gm technician… I work on these all day…lmao.. please tell me about first hand experience…
@@Cil374 IDK what to tell you man. Mine came out bolt-head forward, and that's how it went back in. If for some reason the nut backed off, the LCA bolt would have a better chance of staying in.
What about the spring will it have to come out and is it compressed
The spring on these is contained on the strut so no worries about retaining it or compressing it.
What about mine that has the torsion bars coming to the lower control arm?
You'll have to rent a tool at the parts store to relieve the tension on the torsion bars . Pull the torsion bar out of the lower a arm, then replace the a arm. It's fairly simple to relieve the tension. I don't know how hard it will be to get the Torsion bar out of the a arm. It may be rust seized.