I used this video to submit my first ever card to PSA. Only could stomach trying one for now. Trevor Lawrence Auto numbered to 10. It ended up getting a Gem 10 and Auto 10. Thanks so much for this video. So incredibly helpful. Now it’s time to suck it up and send in some baseball cards I’ve been holding onto. Let’s go!!
Appreciate all the work showing it all off! I've submitted once for a card worth around $2000 when it sold as a 10 and I nit picked that thing to oblivion. When the difference between 9 and 10 is profit or loss, really is important to take the time to only submit the best
I watched you at work today got rained out went to Walmart got 2 blasters opened one got foil torkelson and sp pena not opening the other add to my sealed collection thanks for the content bro
Great video. I’ll need to adopt your penny sleeve method for protecting the card on the table during the wipe down process. I’ve always just held the cards by the edges, which admittedly risks bending the card if you wipe with too much force. One note. When submitting multiple cards, I think you’re supposed to multiply your declared value by the number of cards. So, in your 4 Julio’s example, it’d be $396 declared value - i .e., $99 x 4. The PSA web site will tell you if your total declared value exceeds the maximum for your submission level. Thanks again for the quality content.
Just got my grades back on a 40 card submission from PSA. 27 10’s and 13 9’s! But half the 9’s I already expected them to get 9’s. Just wanted to get them in a PSA holder for my pc. My big boy got a 10! Wander Franco Logofractor SP! Let’s go!
Thanks for spreading the knowledge. I was planning to send in my first submission with the $15 special and I'll definitely keep these pointers in mind throughout. Giving back to the hobby!!
I didn’t have the ability to print any sticky labels, so I called PSA and they assured me that as long as I used clear tape carefully to adhere the bar code to the box, then that was okay. Still nervous as hell though it’s my first submission (only 10 cards) and any kick back would be killer.😅
@@fu_247 go for it, you got this! Just double check the surfaces of all your cards, honestly if the card “pops” to your eye and has really nice and even blenders, send those cards!
Yea ypur absolutely right about batches. Half my julios came with bent corners or surface scratches. But everyone else is fine. And almost every foil or numbered card I have pulled have had dings or scratches. It's pretty annoying because all the nobodies are coming flawless the ones you want are beat up.
Awesome video. For the PSA submission part, when you add the (4) Topps update, Julio, you add up the total value of all 4 cards instead of just one. So it would be $396 instead of $99. Just an FYI :)
The penny sleeve method is a good tip. For a clean surface I have always pulled some printer paper out of the box and use that. On the declared value I always use the max 199 because it does not charge you more but I believe is used for insurance if something happens.
Very informative video. I think you missed a golden opportunity to plug card shells. Those card sleeves are the best for submitting. They're already got Corners cut no worries of a corner of the card catching on it well you already know LOL
Great video Thank you! Question on strategy - if i have several cards for which I reasonably think deserve a 10 grade, should I spread them out over several submissions w other likely 9 grade cards or submit all at once Wondering if this matters?
Thank you for the great video! This is probably a stupid question but I noticed a lot of mosaic cards have like little dimples on them…will they deduct for those?
You are correct. They strongly deter people from using the stupid tabs. Apparently they stack up the card savers and they said the tabs can cause damage
So when you had the stack of bobby in you hand, i hold them as a block. This is when i turn them to side view. You can check all the corners and edges. Even the slightess ding corner will be easy to see in the stack.
Great video, very informative. I have always wondered if it would be okay to take tweezers and remove the "hanging chads", the little pieces of paper that are barely hanging on but won't wipe off. And yes that is a reference to the Bush/Gore election of 2000.
Love you Stryker but you missed a huge print line on that first Julio. Goes right through his face across the whole card. Can see it pretty clear at 3:57. Most of mine look the same way. The Stars of MLB are tough to get 10’s. Most don’t sell for much so I would advise people to steer clear of the base set of those unless they are super clean. The Chromes are usually better quality. You may also want to get into the thresholds when to grade. If it is for PC then it doesn’t matter. If you are trying to sell them then it makes a huge difference. People have to factor what it will sell for versus what the card cost them/grading fee/eBay fee. You can get yourself into a lot of trouble financially if you don’t do this. Too many people also use that everything will get a 10 to make this decision. Assume worst case, everything gets a 9. If I can’t get my money back on the 9 I probably shouldn’t have sent it.
As I have made my way back into the hobby after 23 years, obviously things have changed. What would you recommend as declaring card value on letts say Ken Griffey Jr. 1989 UD? Do I assume the 10 value? or the 9 or below? I guess my concern is if I assume a 9, are they more willing to push for the 9? ANd if I submit for the 10 price, are they more willing to go with the 10 because I paid the 10 value price which are 2 totally different price.
Great video bro and info! Question. If I have a card that's perfectly centered and no surface scratches but has a small dimple, is it worth sending in with only a small dimple on front?
Do you have a better chance of getting a Gem 10 if you submit only 1 or a few cards at a time versus a bulk shipment/rate? Most I plan to send are $500+. Thanks and great video!
Yo, for 2022 Mosaic football autographs do I need to just get the card graded or the card and the autograph the dual service? It's a sticker auto. Thnks
Thank you so much for your informative video. Just subscribed. Can i ask your expert advice? How strict do you think psa is with declared value on cards? I have some cards that i want to submit but prices just surged recently in the past 2 months. So their average price still only show slightly over $500 but recent sales are higher. I'm not sure if the values would hold and hate to overpay for grading. Thanks in advance!
Someone was saying Topps might be able to grade your redemption cards before they ship them to you? If so that'd be great as I currently have 8 redemptions going currently and more to go.
Do your card savers have to be perfectly scratch and slight debris free for grading? I bought some about six months ago and they have been moved around a lot. Do I have to go buy brand new ones or do you think they will care? I do want to the best grade but do not want to spend more money if that is not net necessary. Also, second question...I just found out that there will be a card convention in my area next weekend and the advertisement for it says that PSA will be there and that we can submit there for less wait time. What does that entail submitting like that? IS there a minimum card count amount submission and do they charge more than the standard 15 bucks? Sorry, I am a bit overwhelmed due to getting back into this hobby since last collecting in the early 90's as a young teen.
When I was sorting through my cards literally every one of my Steven Kwan’s has perfect centering both the Topps update and rookie debut. None of my Jeremy Peña’s or Royce Lewis’s are centered and I have like 15 of each. Two out of 15 of my Julio’s and Bobbys are centered. Has anyone else experienced having perfect centering with some players and absolutely like 8020 centering with others?
So I want a card graded so I have to go through process u showed but if I don’t know how much my card is worth I just put like 199.00 what if card is only worth 40 bucks ? Please respond
Hi, have you ever cracked a numbered card graded by psa (9) and try to resubmit to shoot for a psa 10? Is this possible (because it’s numbered)? Thoughts please 🙏🏼
100% agree on the declared value. There's no reason to give them extra money. It's the beg for forgiveness instead of ask for permission principle. One caveat is that economy ($30) is pretty fast right now. My last sub was less than 30 days. I'd guess bulk will be a few months at least.
What should be the declared value for a Superfractor 1/1 card? I'm thinking of submitting my card, so once I sell it, it gives some collectors peace of mind and may pay a little more for a graded 1/1.
Hey Stryker! My only question is what do you do if one of the cards you are submitting is in fact autographed but all the other cards in your bulk is not?
@@BklynBryan only if you want the autograph graded as well aka dual grade. You can send in an autographed card with non auto cards if you get just the card graded.
Just wondering if someone could help me with a question: This is my first submission to psa and I have some auto’d and also non auto’d cards. Now I know I can do two separate submissions in one order one for each but what I’m wondering is do I technically HAVE to do that. For instance if I don’t care about the auto itself being graded could I just submit them all under card only grade?
if you submit an auto card that was factory direct you obviously don't need authentication right? Guess it is up to individual if you want to grade the auto and grade the card. what is your recommendation? I have a couple of auto'd cards I'd eventually like to submit
@@lincoln12347 10 card minimum 15 dollars per card. You have to have a psa membership which cost me 60 bucks. This offer is good until the end of the year.
MF cloths leave behind micro fibers. I first noticed it when cleaning whiskey glasses for tastings. hemp or super cloths were my favrite for leaving behind no trace of fabric. idk if it matters here, but just wanted to make it known that micro fiber cloths leave behind a lot of residue.
TRICK for avoiding nicking the edge of your cards when inserting it into a penny sleeve. The trick is using a SECOND penny sleeve as a shoe horn protector. As we know, the first edge of the card always goes in easily, but the problem is when you try to pass that second edge in, and sometimes catching that edge against that troublesome sleeve corner that refuses to open sometimes. Now you have a nick or chip on your once pristine PSA 10 candidate card! The SOLUTION is easy. I've been using it for years and never get a nicked edge. So, begin the same way as it shows in the video by using your fingers to bubble the plastic sleeve slightly to get an opening (if one is not readily seen) and begin inserting one edge and then the middle part of the card partly into the penny sleeve. Now stop. Here is where the TRICK starts. After getting the first corner of the card into the penny sleeve, I stop, and now hold that penny sleeve and card with my right hand (thumb and index finger) --- and then with my left hand, I get a fresh penny sleeve and use its corner to get into the first penny sleeve that has the card, and slide that in about a third of the way. Now, make sure to adjust the position of that second inserted sleeve so it sits back and abutts the troublesome back edge of the sleeve with the card. Next, you will be "creating a curved plane of plastic for your card tip to slide along, to get it into the sleeve. This will avoid that razor-edge of the sleeve your card sits in now. To create a plane for the other card edge to slide along, use the second sleeve and kind of bend it towards you a little, opening up the sleeve opening into a kind of teardrop shape. So, going back to your right hand, gently press the card corner against the second penny sleeve plane (towards you) as you slowly --- GLIDE it in, bypassing the sharp edge of the sleeve corner holding the card. Do it slowly. Slowly. Keep a bit of pressure of the card tip against that plane as you slide it. You should be able to slide that corner along the plastic and miss any sleeve edge entirely. Once you're past that danger zone, you can pull out the second penny sleeve and then complete the insertion of the card. Once you've done this a couple times, it becomes easy and fast and it will GUARANTEE that no edge of any card is ever nicked or chipped. Best of luck on your submissions!
I use to put 2 pieces of thin paper behind the card with a $100 bill between them inside the card saver back in the late 90s. It increased my chance of a gem mint grade by about 500 percent.
@@mikeday8826 80/20 yikes. Lol. I grade a lot and the only 9's I get are offcentered. Cards I had no business getting 10s on gem because they are perfectly centered. Printlines and dimples don't mean anything to them. In my experience.
Everybody who commented on this are all lamos...Including myself for giving this vid 2 mins of my time. If you dont know what to do then you shouldnt be doing it...lol1!! I think it wiped off I dont see it anymore.....after you slide it in! ( thats what she said!)
I used this video to submit my first ever card to PSA. Only could stomach trying one for now. Trevor Lawrence Auto numbered to 10. It ended up getting a Gem 10 and Auto 10. Thanks so much for this video. So incredibly helpful. Now it’s time to suck it up and send in some baseball cards I’ve been holding onto. Let’s go!!
Glad you did this video!!!! I've got a submission I'm putting together and you did a great job with your last ones you got back.
Great video. Appreciate you taking the time to walk us through this and share your experiences and insight.
Appreciate all the work showing it all off! I've submitted once for a card worth around $2000 when it sold as a 10 and I nit picked that thing to oblivion. When the difference between 9 and 10 is profit or loss, really is important to take the time to only submit the best
This was great! I think your point of having things well lit is key! Great video!!
I watched you at work today got rained out went to Walmart got 2 blasters opened one got foil torkelson and sp pena not opening the other add to my sealed collection thanks for the content bro
Good stuff Stryker most of it I was already doing but still some good tips I didn’t know 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video. I’ll need to adopt your penny sleeve method for protecting the card on the table during the wipe down process. I’ve always just held the cards by the edges, which admittedly risks bending the card if you wipe with too much force.
One note. When submitting multiple cards, I think you’re supposed to multiply your declared value by the number of cards. So, in your 4 Julio’s example, it’d be $396 declared value - i .e., $99 x 4. The PSA web site will tell you if your total declared value exceeds the maximum for your submission level.
Thanks again for the quality content.
Good stuff! Thank you, Stryker!
I go outside with direct sunlight and use a magnifying glass. 😅
Just got my grades back on a 40 card submission from PSA. 27 10’s and 13 9’s!
But half the 9’s I already expected them to get 9’s. Just wanted to get them in a PSA holder for my pc.
My big boy got a 10! Wander Franco Logofractor SP! Let’s go!
That’s a crazy pull I got a Lars nootbaar future stars auto, a Paul goldschmidt auto and the blue out of /150 in a logofractor break
Hope he doesn't get banned 😔
@@THEamMASSACRE already got rid of all my Wander stuff. So Dodged a bullet there
Thanks for spreading the knowledge. I was planning to send in my first submission with the $15 special and I'll definitely keep these pointers in mind throughout. Giving back to the hobby!!
Where do you buy your packs from
I didn’t have the ability to print any sticky labels, so I called PSA and they assured me that as long as I used clear tape carefully to adhere the bar code to the box, then that was okay. Still nervous as hell though it’s my first submission (only 10 cards) and any kick back would be killer.😅
How did it go? It’s been 2 months...did you get your cards back yet? Any 10’s?
@@fu_247 it went absolutely perfect. I sent 10 cards, got (7)PSA 10’s and (3) PSA 9’s!
@@TheMetalmaniac68 that’s awesome, congrats. I think I’ll give it a shot, thx man
@@fu_247 go for it, you got this! Just double check the surfaces of all your cards, honestly if the card “pops” to your eye and has really nice and even blenders, send those cards!
@@TheMetalmaniac68did you put bags over your card savers or send them naked?
Thanks for the good information.
Yea ypur absolutely right about batches. Half my julios came with bent corners or surface scratches. But everyone else is fine. And almost every foil or numbered card I have pulled have had dings or scratches. It's pretty annoying because all the nobodies are coming flawless the ones you want are beat up.
Thanks for the content. Great as always. The shipping costs at the end...does that include shipping both ways or just return shipping?
Great video. I’ve had lots of people ask about this. I’ll send them here.
Much needed video, thank you
Yes! Been asking for this..let's go
Awesome video. For the PSA submission part, when you add the (4) Topps update, Julio, you add up the total value of all 4 cards instead of just one. So it would be $396 instead of $99. Just an FYI :)
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Very informative! Thank you.
Very helpful , thanks for video. 👍
New slammer and new to collecting…. Been saying to myself… I need Stryker to make a how to on submitting to PSA… for reals. Brilliant timing!!!
Awesome thanks Stryker!!
Very helpful, thank you for this. If it’s a numbered card do you include the numbers in the description?
Thank you for the video!
Great video Stryker 👍🏻
Having the centering tool is great and they’re cheap too, like 10 bucks. Great vid👍
The penny sleeve method is a good tip. For a clean surface I have always pulled some printer paper out of the box and use that. On the declared value I always use the max 199 because it does not charge you more but I believe is used for insurance if something happens.
But if you send a card worth several thousand and they don’t add that much on the insurance… you’re SOL if that card gets damaged
Very informative video. I think you missed a golden opportunity to plug card shells. Those card sleeves are the best for submitting. They're already got Corners cut no worries of a corner of the card catching on it well you already know LOL
That was awesome! Thank You
Great video Thank you! Question on strategy - if i have several cards for which I reasonably think deserve a 10 grade, should I spread them out over several submissions w other likely 9 grade cards or submit all at once Wondering if this matters?
really good video and info, thanks
Thank you for the great video! This is probably a stupid question but I noticed a lot of mosaic cards have like little dimples on them…will they deduct for those?
You are correct. They strongly deter people from using the stupid tabs. Apparently they stack up the card savers and they said the tabs can cause damage
Great job explaining the process though Stryker
Do you recommend cleaning 2023 topps clear acetate cards the same way? I only ask because I heard that surface is much more delicate.
So when you had the stack of bobby in you hand, i hold them as a block. This is when i turn them to side view. You can check all the corners and edges. Even the slightess ding corner will be easy to see in the stack.
Super helpful!!!
Just sent my first sub yesterday Stryker. Thank you for all you do. Oh it was a Junior Caminero Bowman 2023 1st Chrome Auto /99. Fingers crossed.
Awesome! Good luck!
Thanks I was waiting on this video. Now I can sit down and do just what u did. I appreciate u Stryker!!!
Great video, very informative. I have always wondered if it would be okay to take tweezers and remove the "hanging chads", the little pieces of paper that are barely hanging on but won't wipe off. And yes that is a reference to the Bush/Gore election of 2000.
Great info.
Hi Stryker: thank you for your informative video. I do not know what amount to declare what the value of my cards are? that is the confusion.
Love you Stryker but you missed a huge print line on that first Julio. Goes right through his face across the whole card. Can see it pretty clear at 3:57. Most of mine look the same way. The Stars of MLB are tough to get 10’s. Most don’t sell for much so I would advise people to steer clear of the base set of those unless they are super clean. The Chromes are usually better quality.
You may also want to get into the thresholds when to grade. If it is for PC then it doesn’t matter. If you are trying to sell them then it makes a huge difference. People have to factor what it will sell for versus what the card cost them/grading fee/eBay fee. You can get yourself into a lot of trouble financially if you don’t do this. Too many people also use that everything will get a 10 to make this decision. Assume worst case, everything gets a 9. If I can’t get my money back on the 9 I probably shouldn’t have sent it.
Can you use top loaders instead of the ultra pro? (Never mind I didn’t watch the full video yet)
question! I have my most valuable cards in magnetic card holders. Is there any specific way I should take them out for grading safely?
As I have made my way back into the hobby after 23 years, obviously things have changed. What would you recommend as declaring card value on letts say Ken Griffey Jr. 1989 UD? Do I assume the 10 value? or the 9 or below? I guess my concern is if I assume a 9, are they more willing to push for the 9? ANd if I submit for the 10 price, are they more willing to go with the 10 because I paid the 10 value price which are 2 totally different price.
you said don't cover that last bar code with tape. I don't have sticker stock. can it be covered with clear tape?
Great video bro and info! Question. If I have a card that's perfectly centered and no surface scratches but has a small dimple, is it worth sending in with only a small dimple on front?
I would not because you lose a lot of value from 9 to 10 on a grade and a 10 means Perfect so unless you want to take the risk I wouldn’t
It depends on the card. If it is a high end card I would. If it is under $100, probably not
Do you have a better chance of getting a Gem 10 if you submit only 1 or a few cards at a time versus a bulk shipment/rate? Most I plan to send are $500+. Thanks and great video!
How do I know what the card is worth before when putting the price in
Yo, for 2022 Mosaic football autographs do I need to just get the card graded or the card and the autograph the dual service? It's a sticker auto. Thnks
Thank you so much for your informative video. Just subscribed. Can i ask your expert advice? How strict do you think psa is with declared value on cards? I have some cards that i want to submit but prices just surged recently in the past 2 months. So their average price still only show slightly over $500 but recent sales are higher. I'm not sure if the values would hold and hate to overpay for grading. Thanks in advance!
Not that strict from my experience. They will just upcharge a bit if it's way off.
@@StrykerBreaks Thank you for your invaluable feedback
Someone was saying Topps might be able to grade your redemption cards before they ship them to you? If so that'd be great as I currently have 8 redemptions going currently and more to go.
I notice in later videos you say that you do wear gloves. You should do an updated version of this with the changes you've made
Do your card savers have to be perfectly scratch and slight debris free for grading? I bought some about six months ago and they have been moved around a lot. Do I have to go buy brand new ones or do you think they will care? I do want to the best grade but do not want to spend more money if that is not net necessary.
Also, second question...I just found out that there will be a card convention in my area next weekend and the advertisement for it says that PSA will be there and that we can submit there for less wait time. What does that entail submitting like that? IS there a minimum card count amount submission and do they charge more than the standard 15 bucks? Sorry, I am a bit overwhelmed due to getting back into this hobby since last collecting in the early 90's as a young teen.
When I was sorting through my cards literally every one of my Steven Kwan’s has perfect centering both the Topps update and rookie debut. None of my Jeremy Peña’s or Royce Lewis’s are centered and I have like 15 of each. Two out of 15 of my Julio’s and Bobbys are centered. Has anyone else experienced having perfect centering with some players and absolutely like 8020 centering with others?
So I want a card graded so I have to go through process u showed but if I don’t know how much my card is worth I just put like 199.00 what if card is only worth 40 bucks ? Please respond
Hi, have you ever cracked a numbered card graded by psa (9) and try to resubmit to shoot for a psa 10? Is this possible (because it’s numbered)? Thoughts please 🙏🏼
Don’t forget about looking at those corners
100% agree on the declared value. There's no reason to give them extra money. It's the beg for forgiveness instead of ask for permission principle. One caveat is that economy ($30) is pretty fast right now. My last sub was less than 30 days. I'd guess bulk will be a few months at least.
What should be the declared value for a Superfractor 1/1 card? I'm thinking of submitting my card, so once I sell it, it gives some collectors peace of mind and may pay a little more for a graded 1/1.
Hey Stryker! My only question is what do you do if one of the cards you are submitting is in fact autographed but all the other cards in your bulk is not?
I think that you have to send the autographed card separately in another order.
@@BklynBryan only if you want the autograph graded as well aka dual grade. You can send in an autographed card with non auto cards if you get just the card graded.
Just wondering if someone could help me with a question: This is my first submission to psa and I have some auto’d and also non auto’d cards. Now I know I can do two separate submissions in one order one for each but what I’m wondering is do I technically HAVE to do that. For instance if I don’t care about the auto itself being graded could I just submit them all under card only grade?
if you submit an auto card that was factory direct you obviously don't need authentication right? Guess it is up to individual if you want to grade the auto and grade the card. what is your recommendation? I have a couple of auto'd cards I'd eventually like to submit
How do you submitt RPA cards? Submit in mag holders? If so, will PSA return your mag holders after grading?
Are you creating visible micro scratches with microfiber cloth?
Hmm, might need and update; I recently joined the PSA Collector's Club and the $15/card option at 16:08 in the video doesn't seem to exist.
Can you buy shipping on there site and just print or do you have to purchase your own insurance for shipping it out?
To them
What if you’ve printed your forms, then realize you boo-booed on a card number, Ex: submission says 233 but it’s actually 223?
Just started my first submission. Best timing ever
how many cards did u submit and how much did it cost
@@lincoln12347
10 card minimum 15 dollars per card. You have to have a psa membership which cost me 60 bucks. This offer is good until the end of the year.
^ This
👏🏼👏🏼
@@shag813 it still says $99 for membership. How did you only pay $60?
Ok day I have 2 cards to get graded can I or not
I found Pena to be the hardest to be centered.
you say that dot isn't enough, but I've seen that dot create 9's
MF cloths leave behind micro fibers. I first noticed it when cleaning whiskey glasses for tastings. hemp or super cloths were my favrite for leaving behind no trace of fabric. idk if it matters here, but just wanted to make it known that micro fiber cloths leave behind a lot of residue.
I am sending in 2 of the same card but one isn’t mine should I write a request to differentiate them?
They don’t do that. If they are on the same order. They can’t tell you this one belongs to Steve and this one was bob’s
In other words brothers, buy graded cards 🤣🤣
Or not waste your $ on the grading cash grab and buy raw. No law requiring grading
@@chrisc4264buying raw is usually buying damaged cards lmfao
@@chrisc4264
You’ll think differently after you spend good money on something and find out that it’s a counterfeit. 😂😂😂
Stryker, the submission page in your site doesn't seem to be working. Was messaging you about a card. Let me know if you got it!
I scan the cards before I submit to PSA
You have to show me how to put in your card information
I ripped a full case of Hobby. All of the Julio base rookies (11) are oc left to right. Did anyone else find their Julio base to be the same?
Yes, just a little bit though
TRICK for avoiding nicking the edge of your cards when inserting it into a penny sleeve. The trick is using a SECOND penny sleeve as a shoe horn protector. As we know, the first edge of the card always goes in easily, but the problem is when you try to pass that second edge in, and sometimes catching that edge against that troublesome sleeve corner that refuses to open sometimes. Now you have a nick or chip on your once pristine PSA 10 candidate card!
The SOLUTION is easy. I've been using it for years and never get a nicked edge. So, begin the same way as it shows in the video by using your fingers to bubble the plastic sleeve slightly to get an opening (if one is not readily seen) and begin inserting one edge and then the middle part of the card partly into the penny sleeve. Now stop. Here is where the TRICK starts. After getting the first corner of the card into the penny sleeve, I stop, and now hold that penny sleeve and card with my right hand (thumb and index finger) --- and then with my left hand, I get a fresh penny sleeve and use its corner to get into the first penny sleeve that has the card, and slide that in about a third of the way. Now, make sure to adjust the position of that second inserted sleeve so it sits back and abutts the troublesome back edge of the sleeve with the card. Next, you will be "creating a curved plane of plastic for your card tip to slide along, to get it into the sleeve. This will avoid that razor-edge of the sleeve your card sits in now. To create a plane for the other card edge to slide along, use the second sleeve and kind of bend it towards you a little, opening up the sleeve opening into a kind of teardrop shape. So, going back to your right hand, gently press the card corner against the second penny sleeve plane (towards you) as you slowly --- GLIDE it in, bypassing the sharp edge of the sleeve corner holding the card. Do it slowly. Slowly. Keep a bit of pressure of the card tip against that plane as you slide it. You should be able to slide that corner along the plastic and miss any sleeve edge entirely. Once you're past that danger zone, you can pull out the second penny sleeve and then complete the insertion of the card. Once you've done this a couple times, it becomes easy and fast and it will GUARANTEE that no edge of any card is ever nicked or chipped. Best of luck on your submissions!
I heard a rumor that PSA could be implementing 9.5 grades. Anyone have any info on this? Thanks.
Great job explaining. You should have been a teacher. :)
I use to put 2 pieces of thin paper behind the card with a $100 bill between them inside the card saver back in the late 90s. It increased my chance of a gem mint grade by about 500 percent.
So if my card has a cat hair it gets graded lower instead of them just blowing it off? W T serious F
Centering is king
Not with psa
@@PattysCards
Yes with psa.
I've seen so many PSA 10s way off center it's not even funny. I'm talking like 80/20
@@mikeday8826
80/20 yikes. Lol. I grade a lot and the only 9's I get are offcentered. Cards I had no business getting 10s on gem because they are perfectly centered. Printlines and dimples don't mean anything to them. In my experience.
@@PattysCards 💯 with SGC & BGS centering is king. PSA allows way more tolerance than the other two. Especially on those 90/10 backs. Lol
CAN I JUST SEND MY CARDS IN A REGULAR TOPPLOADER OR DO I NEED A SPECIFIC ONE??????
No top loaders sent to PSA. Only card savers
You could watch the video for your answer
Stop yelling and watch the video.
@@robbers91 I was just confused as to why you wouldn't be able to send cards in top loaders.
@@Hangers1 bc it is more difficult to remove the cards from a top loader and they don’t want to damage your card
Don't be like me, and think just because a card out pack, that it mint..
Everybody who commented on this are all lamos...Including myself for giving this vid 2 mins of my time. If you dont know what to do then you shouldnt be doing it...lol1!! I think it wiped off I dont see it anymore.....after you slide it in! ( thats what she said!)
Noting like spending 3,000$ in a month on boxes , hunting for the 1of1 and finding it scratched. 😢
Never grade 1/1 IMO, only downside
I go over each card with a jewellers loupe. You would be shocked at the imperfections you can pick up.
Graded cards are a complete sham & have ruined the hobby
why?