I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (Part 6)
Vložit
- čas přidán 3. 10. 2023
- Try PVCase for free here: pvcase.com/GreatScott
Try the world's most trusted PCB design software, Altium Designer with 365, for free and 25% off your purchase: www.altium.com/yt/greatscott!
Check out Altium 365: www.altium.com/altium-365
Check out OctoPart: octopart.com/
Previous video: • Pushing a "legal" Mini...
Previous Aliexpress video: • I tried finding Hidden...
LCD GUI video: • How to create a simple...
ATX Power Supply video: • DIY Lab Bench Power Su...
Facebook: greatscottlab
Twitter: GreatScottLab
Instagram: great.scott...
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@greatscottlab
Discord: discord.gg/zuAvkAuhsY
Support me for more videos: www.patreon.com/GreatScott?ty=h
You can find the featured products here: (affiliate links):
VFD Display: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnO... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEv...
T-Splitter Connector: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEO...
Solar Panel Multimeter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlQ...
Battery Charger/Booster: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDo...
Damaged Screw Extractor: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEu...
ESP32 LCD Board: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBN...
ATX Power Supply Board: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCE...
In this video we will be having a closer look at 7 different products I got from Aliexpress. Aliexpress is famous for featuring the newest products/ICs when it comes to electronics but finding those can be a bit difficult. So I tried finding the hidden Gems not only electronics related but in general what I think could be useful. Let's get started!
Websites that were shown/used during the video:
wiki.makerfabs.com/Sunton_ESP...
github.com/topics/esp32-2432s028
Thanks to PVCase for sponsoring this video.
0:00 AliExpress?!
0:40 Intro
0:56 VFD Display
2:48 T-Splitter Connector
5:06 Solar Panel Multimeter
7:15 LiPo Charger/Booster
9:17 Damaged Screw Extractor Drill Bits
10:13 ESP32 LCD Board
11:20 ATX Power Supply Breakout Board
12:59 Verdict - Věda a technologie
As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.
That's what it seems like to me as well.
I was going to say exactly that. I have this kit and really works like that: drill clockwise, unscrew counter clockwise
I would also think you would have to be a bit more careful about it. Try to get it to bite before easing the screw out. Not just go full speed. What the video shows looks like user error to me.
I've used these kind of extractor bits quite a bit and they work well if you use them properly. In addition to what he other replies said, don't wobble the drill bit, that just makes the cone shape your creating in the screw head too big for the extractor bit. And when you use the extractor bit put as much pressure as you dare on it and turn the drill as slow as it will go. You want the extractor to have a chance to bite in. If you just jam the trigger to full speed you just ruin the extractor bit by dulling the edges.
@Carl Smith That's just how I imagined it was supposed to work.
The last module you showed is a testing equipment board for testing modules (ie USB Audio boards, Pre-Amp boards, etc) which will also have a remote control bundled during packaging. USB audio boards work with 5V common, but Pre-amp boards work at 5,12 or even 24 V. Thats why they have added an IR tester section so that it would be handy to test those remotes too.😄
Good to know. Thanks.
Typical eBay/Aliexpress product! Has weird features because it is built for a particular use case that needs them, but us geeks will never use. Doesn't matter, we love seeing all this weird and wonderful stuff!
@nimoy007yep, but he's from German!
I also wonder if this board have short circuit protection, etc like a real bench power supply. Because if there is it is really really cheap for it's capabilities. And would be perfect for diy power supply.
For those of us on the decidedly hobby side of electronics, that last module looks like a great value!
Definitely!
I have a couple 250 watt ATX power supplies that I bought for another project that are smaller than a pack of playing cards that would work great with that. The PS takes 12 volts in and is a 250 watt ATX power supply with 24 pins and a 4 pin mother board connector and 2 accessory connectors. Just imagine the ATX power connector with a densely packed circtuit board connected directly to it.
Oh yes. I have two different once ow those and they work great. This new one with usb is also on my list now!
@7:10 I liked the time machine stuck on rewind.
Only issue is that I wish they would have added inputs for the CPU or PCIe power connectors. The 24 pin connector alone doesn't carry much current on the +12v rail. You're only looking at like 150w max there.
Please don't stop making these videos, they're really fun to watch
And they are really helpful, too. Because you can't get real reviews on Aliexpress etc. and often those chinese electronics come without a useable manual.
So I even put up with the "cwappy" English, even if it hurts sometimes to listen.
I'm loving these ''Hidden Gems'' videos, please keep this series going. I'm discovering things that I didn't even know I needed. 😃
What I also like about the lipo booster is the 3V undervoltage protection. Almost all other boosters or bms cut off at 2.5V which I think is too low.
Oh boy. One feature I did not test. Sorry about that. But thanks for adding the information
This is fantastic! I recently gave up finding a good protection board on aliexpress because of the scary cutoff voltage. I missed this one because I was looking for ones with USB built in.
Really 😳 that's amazing! I hate it when they have 2,5v is there a battery protection board with boost that has 3v low voltage cutoff?
FYI. The battery charger module has a "key" pad you can set low on a microcontroller or ground to disable the 30s auto cutoff.
this comment needs to be pinned! I noticed that but thought the word Key referred to the switch next to it.
Edit: Although having read the description/Use tutorial on the product page I'm unsure what it is actually used for. Only one way to find out!!
I heard that you can "tap" the key to ground for under half a second at an interval that's less than the power-down timeout so that if you want it to power down, you just stop grounding the key and it'll shut off in 30 seconds.
Also you can do a "double tap" to the key to force an early shutdown.
Perhaps using header pins would be a less problematic way to connect your off-board items?
Hi, I bought the same charger, but it doesn't charge the battery that I connected to it.
I measured the current that goes to the battery, and it is around 0.003 amps (basically nothing). Also, when I disconnect the battery, the 4 LEDs won't turn off. It's like a battery is connected to the circuit, but there isn't one.
I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this issue.
The wire splitters used to be known as "scotch lock" connectors. Everybody used them in the 80s and 90s for fitting stereos to cars, alarms, cd radios etc. They work for about 6 months until they fail by corroding.
Would be cool to see a multi part series showing things to do with the LCD module. Basic GUI to control and in pouts and out puts then displaying some sensor data would be awesome. I'm just about to buy one myself to play with. Thanks for the video!
The screw extractors are designed to be run in reverse and **slow speed** (I am a mechanical engineer and these items are invaluable)
Thanks for poiting that out, my intuition already told me the way they were used was wrong.
Yeah having used them before, slow and easy makes it go alot smoother
Drilling straight in, for the properly sized hole, is also crucial for success.
(You can see Scott wobbling and reaming the poor thing around)
The original Alden Grabit screw extractors work almost every time for me.
@qlum Yeah, I normally gently tap the extractor into place to make it bite that little more and use a spanner not a drill or impact driver for the extraction. @greatscottlab would you be willing to retest?
Yup the technique is crucial. I had a similar experience to Scott’s my first time until I got the hang of it. It’s a useful tool when used correctly. It’s important to drill a clean hole in the screw head for the extractor to bite into.
The T connectors are a knockoff of the 3M T-Tap - which comes in multiple sizes for different wire gauges. If they’re using the same color scheme, the blue should be for 14-16 gauge wires.
I mostly see those (and the related Scotchlok splices) used in automotive or similar applications where you want to minimize the exposure of the original wire to oxygen and water.
Thanks for the feedback
Scotchlok's are rightly reviled in the automotive upfitter world. (at least those that do first responder equipment)
I can't think of a better way to cause wiring system failure than using those damn things.
@GreatScott! I used similar T-connector for low voltage construction site illumination. Just hang up the twisted positive and negative feeding wire and use two connectors to hook into them and hang lamps where needed. Lamps ofc came with female connector preinstalled. Both feeding wire and connectors are probably considered consumables in that instance.
Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key). It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.
2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really *is* faster to just clamp the *correct* (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.
The problem with the T-taps is they are junk.. Do NOT use them in a car (or anywhere for that matter). It may work when you first install them, but down the road, they become intermittent causing all kinds of issues depending on what you used it for. Not to mention the unseen damage it does to the wire. Just terrible product all around.
I mean, it costs three bucks, it's kind-of a you get what you pay for scenario
You say that while displays I installed at Home Depots around Cincinnati are still working fine a decade later. TONS of low voltage light setups use something similar where the tap is actually built into the line and you just clamp them on a powered line for an active splice and others I've seen are identical to the ones shown in the video. No idea about vehicle usage but I've never seen a crimp on splice fail in a display or using them at home in low voltage lighting setups. The only real issue is if they're marketed as one size fits all instead of marketed to a specific wire gauge like they were intended. @turbo2ltr
@Hogscrapercars are an exceptionally difficult environment: you can hit lows of -30C when cold, in winter, and highs of 200C when the engine is fully warmed up. Lots of vibrations, random G-loads, and don’t forget the occasional splash of water from puddles, as well as salt water either because of the environment, or because it is used to treat the roads after a snow storm.
Sorta the polar opposite of “non-moving display signs in a temperature controlled store”
Low voltage lights cover both indoor and outdoor and literally every single low voltage light ran around our deck and yard uses those connections for splices. I seriously doubt any car in my area has an electrical connection exposed to more water and cold than the ones laying on the ground behind my house. Nice that you not only know so little about those systems yet decided to just ramble on based on your incorrect assumptions. Also weird that you think a single mechanic anywhere is using any form of plastic splice, either the one shown or the one he recommends instead, that is intended to lay on the motor block or even outside the cabin, dashboard or trunk of the car where there there typically isn't water or near boiling temps...@Richard Betel
The thing with screw and bolt extractors is there's a certain way you need to use them. Otherwise you go round and round in circles.
You need a clean hole. A hammer. And then the extractor needs to be turned counter clockwise while still putting pressure on the bit. As soon as it slips. Hammer again.
Yeah but it still doesn't work. It's just cheap Chinese garbage and waste of money. This cheap screw extractors are just garbage. Had them, tested, they wear off before being able to unscrew one brand new screw screwed with medium torque and blue loctite applied. Same goes to cheap Chinese drills (got few free with some order). Do yourself a favour and avoid such thing at any cost and just grab something better which actually works.
"You need a clean hole." - **giggle**
@Rachael Lee everyone needs a clean hole! 🕳️🫧💧🫧💧
A lot of these items look handy. The ATX breakout board is particularly useful, especially in cases where you have a spare power supply that isn't a standard size / shape (Dell, HP, Packard Bell, etc.) because it would make them useful again.
But you have to be careful with them because sometimes they have a different piout (not standart ATX or 12-VO).
This video series has been the one im most hyped about. I am always looking for fun and cool gadgets/parts. Thank you for the work you are putting into your videos!
I think those connectors you showed first would be good when fitting dashcams or telemetry black boxes to cars, where there isn't enough slack to cut the wires and add a terminal block.
For drill extractors you need to use a hand tool, in my experience the slowness as well as added pressure help it grip!
That Charger/Booster is really nice... unfortunately you can't set the low current for auto off. The IC they use, I think, is the IP5306. It has a 45mA threshold with a 30 sec timer.
It is worth mentioning that ATX PSUs are designed to output the rated power only if both +5V and +12V rails are loaded. If you have a 500W PSU that claims to deliver 250W on each of these lines, it doesn't mean that it would give you that if the other line is idle. So if you need to pull a large current from one, hook up some dummy load, like a lightbulb to the other.
T-splitters are communally used in vehicles for aftermarket accessories, I used these when in the past while installing alarms / remote starters on cars. They have 3 sizes red, blue and yellow, red for thinner wire, blue for mid and yellow for wire around 10 gauge.
Great Scott! These VFDs are loveliness - I'd love to get a 4x20 one for my vacuum tube tester, to make it even more funky than it is now.
Thanks for the info on these ESP32 modules with display. That's definitely gonna come in handy for IoT / home automation projects.
I've been using those little battery charger/5v boost boards for a while now and they're awesome! But I also agree, the fact it turns off with low current is frustrating. If it's used for a project with a MCU, you can set a pin to send a little pulse to the "key" line every few seconds to keep it awake, though.
ah good to know.
for the damaged screw extractors, haven't used those in a long time, but i remember that you're supposed to use those in reverse(counter clockwise) and if i'm not mistaken, your drill seems to be in forward, but it's made to grab while "unscrewing"!! Wouldn't be supprised if they were just too cheaply made tho!! 😅Anyway, thanks for the great content as always, i love these, because i also like fishing randomly for little useful gems(but on amazon), and you often find stuff i haven't thought to check for in these!! (you also saved me a few bucks on garbage i probably would have got!)🤓
Yes. The drill appears to be turning the wrong way to me too. As you indicated, the bits are meant to grab and drill in reverse (the same direction as if one wanted to remove a fastener).
I noticed the same mistake in the video, drill was turning in the wrong direction.
I also noticed this that they drill was turning in the opposite direction from what you're supposed to be turning. 10:12
Also you need to use the low gear and low rpm that it has time to sink into the bolt. These are cheap but they work. I've had these for years.
The T-Taps are handy for automotive things. Such as splitting off a line to install remote starts and keyless entry. Just make sure you get some decent quality ones.
Another note for the screw extractor to successfully get out the damaged head screw you need to drill a smaller hole inside the screw head after that use the screw reverse extractor so it has what to grip on. If you use it on a flat head it will never work/come out.
Excellent video once again! Do love those VFDs! Have you considered testing P-Tap connectors to split the cable? Doesn't cut in like a normal T-Splitter. Not sure about the resistance, but it would be a great demonstration. :D
I love these series. You get to test the things I'm too afraid to waste money on... The risk sometimes is definitely worth it though! Great find on the breakout board.
Keep it up!
Much love from the UK!
I loved the last two devices you reviewed. I'm definitely leaving them on my favorites and will look into your Lab Bench PSU project too.
If you watch the video they have for demonstrating the screw extractors, you can see on the other screws that they’ve had a thread inserted to them. So of course, if you get a tap and die set on your screwed screws those extractors are going to work!
The T-splitters are great for upgrading your car stereo without having to cut out the old OEM wiring harness out.
I love these videos of yours. They are like getting a wrapped present each time. I think the LCD display you showed looks really interesting
The vfc is a premium feature for your devices, totally worth it if you use the same display for several tests and not producing and then leaving the build, since its interchangeable with the lcd you probably should get one for when you are testing and debugging your project, then you can afford to not have instant display actualization and only displaying the data
Recently I have bought that lipo charger booster with a built in type C port
It came with an optional type A port that we can solder on. I have powered a raspberry pi 3 B+ with it and it works great. It never showed that low voltage issue, which I regularly get with the power adapter that came with the pi kit.
9:47 screw extractors worked for me, but I was drilling much, much slower to get into the head and of cause counterclockwise. It also depends on the kind of screws, stainless steels screws are harder to get out for example.
That screw extractor is garbage, I bought the same one to remove a screw from a bicycle brake rotor and they are damaged immediately without generating enough torque
Kinda looked like an infomercial failing on purpose with the easy-outs. Cheaping out is definitely not a good idea when it comes to bits but if you use them with patience and precision (keep the hole as tight as possible i.e. no wiggling around) and using the correct rotation directions then you can certainly save parts. I'd also test it in metal, not wood, as you're likely to be dealing with machine screws trying to save something expensive, not a 2x4.
All that said, even with the best bits following best practice, sometimes they just make it worse. Sometimes you just gotta drill and retap.
The T-Splitter are available in different sizes. I use them sometimes when the space is constraint or the cable to short.
Thank you, I really enjoy seeing cool new inventions that don't really make it into the mainstream. Your diligence and expertise certainly add a lot of value, much appreciated.
These are some of my favourite videos. Only problem is, I like to buy little electronic gadgets because “I’ll probably use it, it’ll come in handy, that’s cool” and have been known to spend a fair amount of money on things to just sit in my cabinets and never see light of day 😂
I just picked up those battery boost converter/charger modules from Amazon last week.
Great to see the evaluation.
Be interested in seeing you test out one of the decently higher-end DIY amplifier boards and see if they are any quality to use on diy Bluetooth speaker projects
actually considered buying that atx breakout board a while ago (but i already did my atx-psu-based desk wiring before that so i didn’t buy it) nice to see it here and good to know it’s good
Great video, as always :)
Can I ask - the VFD displays - did they both work with the LiquidCrystal_I2C library, or did the 2nd display need a different config?
I'm asking as I would like to use that display for a project!
I like that esp32 screen product.
I haven't worked with those before but I am imagining some use cases. Like it could be a monitoring tool. You walk up to whatever device and it would show its status, plot some nice graphs, allow changing parameters. All of this without having fancy IOT hardware or screens on the stationary devices.
I wonder if these Arduino boards could be used as a BCM or Body control module? That really would be great for older cars.
A fun and informative video. What brand are those wire strippers? I seem to be so many but none seem to strip very well! Also, the best thing about the screw extractors is that once you have a set, you never need to use them. I've had mine for years, and they remain as-new.
I love these episodes! I always mean to make some of these purchases but never do…😒
I love the VFD tube displays. They're fast and easy to read. I daily drive a 1988 Cressida that have VFD tube based digital instrument cluster
Immediately picked up 2 of those ESP32 boards with the display. The displays on their own are usually more than that, thanks for that link. Built in micro SD card reader is really nice too
Those T connectors are quite good if you want to tap into wire without breaking it. Especially in security. People will notice when their network cable is cut for minutes until you add Wago connectors
Noone will notice if you are tapping in with those T-taps. We used to use similar things in military to tap into lines :)
I love this series. What's the advantage of the charger module over the classic TP4056?
The blue clip-on connetors are not single size. They exist in multiple sizes with different color coding. The same one as insulated fastons. Red for 0,5 - 1,5 mm2, Blue for 1,5 - 2,5 mm2 and yellow for 2,5 - 4 mm2. They work great for indoor (interior) use for various low current application, if you need to just splice a wire without cutting them from a harness.
I like those cheap t-split connectors for temporary projects, like swapping the FM radio from your car without snipping the OEM ends. It's a real PITA but it can save money and the spliced exposed wire can always be patched with liquid electrical tape.
That power supply break out board looks interesting and very handy. Might have to grab one.
I actually lol'd at the random IR tester. The board itself seems quite useful without it though
The T-terminal has several advantages.
Firstly, there are situations where the wire does not have extra length, so it cannot be cut and stripped as with Wago.
Secondly, there are places where it is difficult to reach with a tool, and it is more convenient to simply clamp the terminal with pliers, and then crimp the wire in a comfortable location.
Thirdly, the T-terminal allows you to return the wire to its original state by simply adding a bit of insulation, and there is no need to solder the wire again.
I really like these kind of videos, toying with random electronics from wherever.. really fun to watch
about the T-splitter connector: I've seen it used in some contexts in which you need to "steal" current from an existing setup that might be quite tight without redoing the wiring for example to add some stuff to a car, an example is stealing power from the high beams of your car to send the opening signal to your garage door. (and make it so that it only works once per activation and not that it keeps pressing if you enable them, it's meant to go with a quick flicker of course) and in that case it can work fine because it makes you access the cables without fiddling with them too much
I love this series, please keep them coming!!
I used those T wire splicers in my last job as a laundry repairman. A lot of different retrofits included those to supply power to new card readers to replace the coin slots in older machines. Though the spade connectors were usually precrimped on the wires included with the retrofit.
You had a job fixing broken trousers and blouses? Cool. ;)
I love this video.
I wish for the next one you'll review aliexpress batteries since it's really hard to know which ones are good 🤷🏼
The screw extractor brand name is Grabbit, which comes with very useful instructions as other people have pointed out
I can see those T-Splitters being useful for only one thing, Speaker wiring, when splitting for parallel use etc :)
That LiPo boost charger looks great except for one thing I'm suspicious of: I bet it's SUPER RF noisy. :(. As someone who enjoys radio hobbies as well as general electronics, poorly-implemented switching circuits are a nightmare - it would be great to talk about ways to address that sort of thing.
I would be really interested in seeing a video about tunnel diodes. There is an ebay vendor right now selling 10 for $20 (he has like 3 or 4 packs left) with really positive reviews, all of the other vendors have them priced at like $40 or $80 each. I ordered a 10 pack myself. I think they could possibly make some cool guitar pedals or synth modules. Edit: Time will tell if they are legit. Looking forward to getting my hands on them to see if they are. " General Electric 1N3719 Tunnel Diode" is what I ordered.
VFDs are awesome, I love them. Also the tubes themselves are still produced in Japan.
I use that screw extractor at work sometimes, definitely works, you should not go full power with the drill, first drill a hole deep enough, then put the wedge screw in and hammer it into the hole if needed, then while pushing you need to reverse slowly with highest torque setting/impact driver
That powersupply breakout would be even more amazing if it could also do type-c power delivery and quick charge. The ability to quick charge some mobile device or power a laptop would be useful, and the available power is there just waiting to be tapped.
Most laptops are going to want closer to the 20V which would mean a boost circuit. Though my Chromebook was happy charging at a lower voltage (though much slower), my other devices just won't.
Those T connectors are fairly common in the United States. You can get them is several different sizes for large or small wires. I never liked them and have only used them in temporary wiring to tap in for testing. As for the screw extractors. The good name brand ones work quite well. It looks like the AliExpress ones are not good quality, however.
Love this series of Aliexpress hidden gems.
I didn't know that ali express is popular in Germany. in Russia it is a number one site to order strange stuff ( actually, local stores are also full of aliexpress stuff already). As for t-splitters - it is sometimes used in Russia as we can buy it almost everywhere, but more often Wago (actually now it is fake Chinese wago) is used for connecting lights or low voltage stuff. Quite great video, for example i didn't know about the vacuum lamp display, very nice thing for some dyi with nostalgy like sound amplifiers or etc
The solar panel meter would be an interesting item for a DIY or buy video.
These screw extractors look a bit different to ones i've used but generally once the hole is drilled you would have to tap the extractor down into the screw with a hammer and then try to twist. Do they do a server power supply breakout board?
I really like that ATX breakout board! Looks super useful.
Oh goodie, another line-up. I use OLED displays nowadays. They're pretty fast. I wonder how they compare. I've also never had luck with those screw removers. The battery board is great - I've used something similar with adjustable output, which is finicky. The PSU board is really fantastic. I use large T-splitters on my high current cables, but they are solid metal and have two large screws. I wouldn't trust those tiny T-splitters. The solar panel device looks very handy if you work with panels in the field.
Thanks Scott for this episode! I had a similar experience with screw extractors (completely useless) and cable splitters/connectors (carefully to be used if at all, I used them once, outdoor for 12V with 0.75 mm2 wires, and covered from rain place, also adding some silicone inside)
...I don't think his name is Scott...
I personnaly used similar screw extractors once and it worked. There are a few videos on the internet that compares them, I may find a link if you want
As someone who at times uses an atx power supply at-hock for powering this, this seems like a useful board to have.
Another benefit of that ATX breakout board is that it keeps someone from having to open a power supply, which can be a very dangerous thing.
I love that China seems full of engineers that have specific use cases and things built *specifically* for that issue. Said ATX Board implies someone at some point, had spare working computer power supplies lying around but needed tons of USB and light lab-bench work and just... made due, with something that's safer than tearing into one. I really have to hand it to em.
Instantly bought a few of those LCD screens and ATX bench supply breakouts. Those are such good deals it's insane
Those 5v booster were really great but the variant with the IP5306 chip in it are way more reliable than the other variants
With those, can you for example program it so like turn on charge at 3.9v and off at 4.2v? I'm using a TP4056 in the car and it wastes so much energy just constantly charging an 18650 that's hooked up to my tablet that is turned off
Incredible video like usual. I had a question about the LiPo charging / discharging circuit. So you said it auto powers off if the load is not big enough. Does it power back on if a load is applied again?
I really like these hidden gems videos. I have used a few of those LiPo Charger/Booster boards. The auto power off usually ruins them for my projects.
The ESP32 LCD looks awesome. I will have to order one. Thanks.
oh yeah, the dreaded auto power off. Useless as always.
The last module is really a true gem we needed. 👍
The T spliiter connectors are great if you have one long wires and you want to make multiple T split out of it without cutting the wires. Other than that i agree with the cons
Great job! I see you went into solar power rabbit hole. Would you please recommend small window panels?
For that little charging circuit, you should have had the battery leads disconnected from the battery to solder the leads to the board - why would you take a chance on shorting out the battery that way? You can always solder the leads back onto the battery later (or use a couple of quick disconnects :) ) You might want to try a smaller tip for your soldering iron as well - that tip is very ungainly for small work.
OMG, after all these years and I still cringe when I watch the soldering technique in these videos. Solder isn't glue. Maybe either put the conductor through the hole in the board to better keep it under control as well as providing some mechanical strength for the joint and avoid peeling the traces off the board. And apply solder (and the flux core in the solder) to the heated joint, not drop blobs off the tip of the iron on the joint. Please, these video are teaching people the incorrect way to use a soldering iron.
@Louis MamakosI didn't want to criticise too much... I was thinking along the same lines. His iron was cool (not hot enough) and not wetted properly (globby solder)...
I frown on the use of the new solder as well - I stick to tin/lead (preferably 63/37) for fine PCB work. It just works the best with the right tensile strength. Not too soft, not too hard... Not environmentally friendly though.
If you like VFDs then character OLEDs are a good alternative. They have superb contrast and viewing angle, and work in many devices that use the HD44780 LCD protocol. They used to be real cheap before the pandemic (US$8 for a 16x2 display) but availability is not so good now and prices have gone up, but they're still way cheaper than VFDs.
Also more durable... VFDs are best for things like HiFi equipment and microwaves where they're not moving. OLEDs will be less upset about bumps. Plus much lower power consumption
@DoctorX17 ehh, VFD were used extensively in cars for many many years before LCDs were readily available. They are plenty durable. Cheap OLEDs are prone to burn in unless you plan to write your code to actively minimize it. Definitely not idea for an always-on display.
@turbo2ltr true… fine with shock dampening. But I dunno if I’d put them in handheld projects. And yeah, OLED does have that issue, VFDs can be always on for ages
The big problem with VFDs is they eventually lose brightness and become unreadable. That's probably not too bad for these generic ones but for custom ones such as often found in microwaves and hi-fi equipment, this becomes an issue. I'm actually planning on seeing if I can swap some out and use OLED displays instead (obviously this would require some sophisticated microcontroller work).
Those screw extractors are extremely hit or miss, from the times I've used them.
The T splitter connectors - here we call them something that sounds like "current thieves" - comes in different sizes for different wire gauges ^_^"" the problem on the long term could be oxydation , one can also use some grease to protect the inner part from moisture. My car dealership used these to connect my rear sensors lol, they are running ok after 12yrs in a mechanically stressed environment. Wagos, btw, are surely better if one can use them (size matters sometimes)
That 5v lithium battery charge / discharge board looks interesting. But is there a way to limit the charging current to the cell? I would like to use this board with some salvaged cells from single use vape devices. But I don't think they could handle 2A of charging current.
I had fun with the 1,79 USD promo and most of the stuff is really ok. The head lamp LED with an 18650 inside for 1,79USD was awesome.
Word of warning. Do not use the ATX powersupply as lab benchtop powersupply. It seems like it does not have any overcurrent protection, so it can easily fry your board.
For portable work I use FNIRSI DC-6something something. I paid cca 35EUR for it and it works fine. The funny thing is that it does not even have built in power source so you must provide your own adapter or USB-C power, but it is small and has the basic lab benchtop power supply features (overcurrent protection, overtemperature protection, on/off button, etc...).
It is by no means perfect but better than forcing 50W into short on your board :-)
As others have mentioned, I really hope you weren't trying to remove a screw by turning it clockwise.... But probably just the camera making it look that way. But if you did go clockwise, it can wear down the teeth on the bit, then it won't work in the correct direction either.
The "T-Splitter Connector" has been used where I work because a client required a modification to existing hardware (1000+ systems). The technicians did not necessarily know much about wiring. The wires were crimped in factory, then the technicians just had to use pliers to put blue splitter on blue wire, plug in the already crimped wire and done. That was fast, required no technical knowledge at all, only one plier. I don't remember the exact cost but I think it was even cheaper than a wago connector. So I think it has its uses.
Those splitters are also known as scotch locks and mechanic worth their salt not only avoids them, but hates that due to their ability to cause some very nasty damage to wiring harnesses when used by folks who haven't learned better yet.
I like the t connectors for automotive use where you may not be able to easily cut and splice. I used them to get power for a backup camera from my reversing lights. They’re available in other sizes too.
????
Hmmmm Ok. If there really is no other way then yes......I still do not like them though.
Handy until your backup camera randomly stops working. These kinds of connectors are really hit and miss in terms of reliability, no matter how correctly you install it.
@GreatScott!I don't have these t connectors but I had my eyes on them already. I partly agree and disagree with you, though. Of course, it's way more elegant and safer to use wagos where you can. These come in handy where you need a junction, but don't have slack, just as OP mentioned.
Furthermore, while I agree that it won't fit to every cable size, you simply choose another one. And no, wago might be more flexible in this regard, definitely not fit for every wire size, that's misleading.
This style of connection (idc) is ages old and the cause of so many electrical issues I deal with it's not a joke anymore... ask anyone about scotch lock connectors in vehicles ( same style of connection) .
They have one redeeming feature..they help keep me employed.
The t splitters are mostly used for automobile work because they enable users to make connections without cutting any cables so warranty is not void
The T splitters are intended for automotive applications where you don't have room to disconnect the existing wire harness.
I've used similar T-splices when I want to add sensing leads to an existing line, though mine were the "parallel" style, which don't require a spade connector. They capture both attached cables with the same splicing bar. If you have the right size, my experience has been great because you can add them with just some pliers, and then you instantly have a conection you can use for voltage sensing. But the page advertising them as "low resistance" and "fast" is definitely being disingenuous.
Note that the ESP32 LCD board is also available with capacitive touchscreen, but be aware that without correct datasheet and driver code, it can be impossible to use it as capacitive touchscreen are really sometimes weird (I am looking at you Goodix).
Got one of the capacitive ones and it's a delightful piece of kit.
It seems you were trying to use the screw extractor in clock-wise, forward mode.. If so, you needed to run it in reverse to remove the screw with the extractor.