I tried finding Hidden Gems on AliExpress AGAIN! (Part 6)
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2024
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You can find the featured products here: (affiliate links):
VFD Display: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnO... s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEv...
T-Splitter Connector: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEO...
Solar Panel Multimeter: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlQ...
Battery Charger/Booster: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDo...
Damaged Screw Extractor: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEu...
ESP32 LCD Board: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBN...
ATX Power Supply Board: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCE...
In this video we will be having a closer look at 7 different products I got from Aliexpress. Aliexpress is famous for featuring the newest products/ICs when it comes to electronics but finding those can be a bit difficult. So I tried finding the hidden Gems not only electronics related but in general what I think could be useful. Let's get started!
Websites that were shown/used during the video:
wiki.makerfabs.com/Sunton_ESP...
github.com/topics/esp32-2432s028
Thanks to PVCase for sponsoring this video.
0:00 AliExpress?!
0:40 Intro
0:56 VFD Display
2:48 T-Splitter Connector
5:06 Solar Panel Multimeter
7:15 LiPo Charger/Booster
9:17 Damaged Screw Extractor Drill Bits
10:13 ESP32 LCD Board
11:20 ATX Power Supply Breakout Board
12:59 Verdict - Věda a technologie
As for screw extractors, you should use both sides of a bit with reverse (counter-clockwise, unscrewing) direction of a drill - check the flute directions out: they should bite in the screw and pull it out, not stroke it and drive it in. It is noticeable that in video it is done the wrong way at all times except at the end of video.
That's what it seems like to me as well.
I was going to say exactly that. I have this kit and really works like that: drill clockwise, unscrew counter clockwise
I would also think you would have to be a bit more careful about it. Try to get it to bite before easing the screw out. Not just go full speed. What the video shows looks like user error to me.
I've used these kind of extractor bits quite a bit and they work well if you use them properly. In addition to what he other replies said, don't wobble the drill bit, that just makes the cone shape your creating in the screw head too big for the extractor bit. And when you use the extractor bit put as much pressure as you dare on it and turn the drill as slow as it will go. You want the extractor to have a chance to bite in. If you just jam the trigger to full speed you just ruin the extractor bit by dulling the edges.
@@cdsmith That's just how I imagined it was supposed to work.
The T connectors are a knockoff of the 3M T-Tap - which comes in multiple sizes for different wire gauges. If they’re using the same color scheme, the blue should be for 14-16 gauge wires.
I mostly see those (and the related Scotchlok splices) used in automotive or similar applications where you want to minimize the exposure of the original wire to oxygen and water.
Thanks for the feedback
Scotchlok's are rightly reviled in the automotive upfitter world. (at least those that do first responder equipment)
I can't think of a better way to cause wiring system failure than using those damn things.
@@jimurrata6785 Used them on my first car in the 80s. They're trash.
@@greatscottlab I used similar T-connector for low voltage construction site illumination. Just hang up the twisted positive and negative feeding wire and use two connectors to hook into them and hang lamps where needed. Lamps ofc came with female connector preinstalled. Both feeding wire and connectors are probably considered consumables in that instance.
And the 3M are junk too. And have been for 20 years or more since they came out.
Please don't stop making these videos, they're really fun to watch
And they are really helpful, too. Because you can't get real reviews on Aliexpress etc. and often those chinese electronics come without a useable manual.
So I even put up with the "cwappy" English, even if it hurts sometimes to listen.
@@haraldhechler3557his english is still better than for example Military Aviation History's english
The last module you showed is a testing equipment board for testing modules (ie USB Audio boards, Pre-Amp boards, etc) which will also have a remote control bundled during packaging. USB audio boards work with 5V common, but Pre-amp boards work at 5,12 or even 24 V. Thats why they have added an IR tester section so that it would be handy to test those remotes too.😄
Good to know. Thanks.
@@greatscottlab BE AWEARE THAT ALL KINDS OF ADS ARE ILLEGAL! COMPLETELY!!!! IF YOU EVER PUT SPONSORED SEGMENTS OR ADS IN VIDEOS YIOUU TRIGGER MY PANICH ATTACKS!!!!! I AM TRIGGERED BY ADS AND I SUFFER!!!!!! WHY DO YOU DO THIS TO ME???????? IT IS ILLEGAL AND I MUST TAKE LEGAL ACTIONS!!!!!!!!! YOU MUST KNOW THAT LEGAL PENALTY FOR ADS AND SPONSORED CONTENT IS DEATH PENALTY!!!!!
Typical eBay/Aliexpress product! Has weird features because it is built for a particular use case that needs them, but us geeks will never use. Doesn't matter, we love seeing all this weird and wonderful stuff!
@@nimoy007yep, but he's from German!
I also wonder if this board have short circuit protection, etc like a real bench power supply. Because if there is it is really really cheap for it's capabilities. And would be perfect for diy power supply.
The screw extractors are designed to be run in reverse and **slow speed** (I am a mechanical engineer and these items are invaluable)
Thanks for poiting that out, my intuition already told me the way they were used was wrong.
Yeah having used them before, slow and easy makes it go alot smoother
Drilling straight in, for the properly sized hole, is also crucial for success.
(You can see Scott wobbling and reaming the poor thing around)
The original Alden Grabit screw extractors work almost every time for me.
@@qlum Yeah, I normally gently tap the extractor into place to make it bite that little more and use a spanner not a drill or impact driver for the extraction. @greatscottlab would you be willing to retest?
Yup the technique is crucial. I had a similar experience to Scott’s my first time until I got the hang of it. It’s a useful tool when used correctly. It’s important to drill a clean hole in the screw head for the extractor to bite into.
Regarding battery 5v PCB. I used one and I'm very happy with it. There is a way to keep it on even with small load. There's additional pad on the other side (I believe it's called Key). It needs to be pulled low (I believe) to turn board on. In such way the board will be up while key is pulled to required polarity.
For those of us on the decidedly hobby side of electronics, that last module looks like a great value!
Definitely!
I have a couple 250 watt ATX power supplies that I bought for another project that are smaller than a pack of playing cards that would work great with that. The PS takes 12 volts in and is a 250 watt ATX power supply with 24 pins and a 4 pin mother board connector and 2 accessory connectors. Just imagine the ATX power connector with a densely packed circtuit board connected directly to it.
Oh yes. I have two different once ow those and they work great. This new one with usb is also on my list now!
@7:10 I liked the time machine stuck on rewind.
Only issue is that I wish they would have added inputs for the CPU or PCIe power connectors. The 24 pin connector alone doesn't carry much current on the +12v rail. You're only looking at like 150w max there.
FYI. The battery charger module has a "key" pad you can set low on a microcontroller or ground to disable the 30s auto cutoff.
this comment needs to be pinned! I noticed that but thought the word Key referred to the switch next to it.
Edit: Although having read the description/Use tutorial on the product page I'm unsure what it is actually used for. Only one way to find out!!
I heard that you can "tap" the key to ground for under half a second at an interval that's less than the power-down timeout so that if you want it to power down, you just stop grounding the key and it'll shut off in 30 seconds.
Also you can do a "double tap" to the key to force an early shutdown.
Perhaps using header pins would be a less problematic way to connect your off-board items?
Hi, I bought the same charger, but it doesn't charge the battery that I connected to it.
I measured the current that goes to the battery, and it is around 0.003 amps (basically nothing). Also, when I disconnect the battery, the 4 LEDs won't turn off. It's like a battery is connected to the circuit, but there isn't one.
I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this issue.
2 issues: T-tap connectors are generally used by car accessory installers, in those cases the mating ends are usually pre-terminated or pre-stripped, so it really *is* faster to just clamp the *correct* (color matching, red, blue) T-tap to send something like a low current remote signal, or 12v at less than 3A. Second, that ATX power supply trigger doesn't have a load resistor. I've run into ATX supplies that won't turn on without a load, and ideally you should have some sort of load to make the power supply regulate. I would expect a good ATX trigger to have a load resistor, otherwise you can't know what power supply the customer is plugging into it and thus get a bad experience.
The problem with the T-taps is they are junk.. Do NOT use them in a car (or anywhere for that matter). It may work when you first install them, but down the road, they become intermittent causing all kinds of issues depending on what you used it for. Not to mention the unseen damage it does to the wire. Just terrible product all around.
I mean, it costs three bucks, it's kind-of a you get what you pay for scenario
You say that while displays I installed at Home Depots around Cincinnati are still working fine a decade later. TONS of low voltage light setups use something similar where the tap is actually built into the line and you just clamp them on a powered line for an active splice and others I've seen are identical to the ones shown in the video. No idea about vehicle usage but I've never seen a crimp on splice fail in a display or using them at home in low voltage lighting setups. The only real issue is if they're marketed as one size fits all instead of marketed to a specific wire gauge like they were intended. @@turbo2ltr
@@Hogscrapercars are an exceptionally difficult environment: you can hit lows of -30C when cold, in winter, and highs of 200C when the engine is fully warmed up. Lots of vibrations, random G-loads, and don’t forget the occasional splash of water from puddles, as well as salt water either because of the environment, or because it is used to treat the roads after a snow storm.
Sorta the polar opposite of “non-moving display signs in a temperature controlled store”
Low voltage lights cover both indoor and outdoor and literally every single low voltage light ran around our deck and yard uses those connections for splices. I seriously doubt any car in my area has an electrical connection exposed to more water and cold than the ones laying on the ground behind my house. Nice that you not only know so little about those systems yet decided to just ramble on based on your incorrect assumptions. Also weird that you think a single mechanic anywhere is using any form of plastic splice, either the one shown or the one he recommends instead, that is intended to lay on the motor block or even outside the cabin, dashboard or trunk of the car where there there typically isn't water or near boiling temps...@@RichardBetel
What I also like about the lipo booster is the 3V undervoltage protection. Almost all other boosters or bms cut off at 2.5V which I think is too low.
Oh boy. One feature I did not test. Sorry about that. But thanks for adding the information
could you maybe test that if you find the time and reply us here? xD @@greatscottlab
This is fantastic! I recently gave up finding a good protection board on aliexpress because of the scary cutoff voltage. I missed this one because I was looking for ones with USB built in.
@@spagamoto look for "power bank module", there are dozens and dozens of them with the USB port built in and a bunch of protection features. Bear in mind that they all have a low current cutoff of around 50mA so if you're expecting to use them for low powered applications like a sensor that gathers data once a minute and goes into deep sleep the rest of the time, it won't work. I use them all the time for battery powered projects, very useful indeed.
Really 😳 that's amazing! I hate it when they have 2,5v is there a battery protection board with boost that has 3v low voltage cutoff?
I'm loving these ''Hidden Gems'' videos, please keep this series going. I'm discovering things that I didn't even know I needed. 😃
Would be cool to see a multi part series showing things to do with the LCD module. Basic GUI to control and in pouts and out puts then displaying some sensor data would be awesome. I'm just about to buy one myself to play with. Thanks for the video!
The thing with screw and bolt extractors is there's a certain way you need to use them. Otherwise you go round and round in circles.
You need a clean hole. A hammer. And then the extractor needs to be turned counter clockwise while still putting pressure on the bit. As soon as it slips. Hammer again.
Yeah but it still doesn't work. It's just cheap Chinese garbage and waste of money. This cheap screw extractors are just garbage. Had them, tested, they wear off before being able to unscrew one brand new screw screwed with medium torque and blue loctite applied. Same goes to cheap Chinese drills (got few free with some order). Do yourself a favour and avoid such thing at any cost and just grab something better which actually works.
@@baalzevuv4509 again I haven't had any issues with Cheap Chinese drills albeit the batteries are terrible. I actually had a cheap drill that would out torque my uncles Milwaukee 😂😂
Even cheap tap and die sets I've been lucky with. I have expensive ones too but only for the important stuff
"You need a clean hole." - **giggle**
@@RachaelSA everyone needs a clean hole! 🕳️🫧💧🫧💧
The wire splitters used to be known as "scotch lock" connectors. Everybody used them in the 80s and 90s for fitting stereos to cars, alarms, cd radios etc. They work for about 6 months until they fail by corroding.
Please note that the linked seller is currently listing the ATX adapter board as a variable power supply “1.8V-10.8V(ADJ)”, however this feature does not exist!
On the ATX adapter board, the white PSON GND 2P connector is for connecting an external switch for switching the power supply on without needing to use the onboard toggle.
I love these videos of yours. They are like getting a wrapped present each time. I think the LCD display you showed looks really interesting
9:47 screw extractors worked for me, but I was drilling much, much slower to get into the head and of cause counterclockwise. It also depends on the kind of screws, stainless steels screws are harder to get out for example.
That screw extractor is garbage, I bought the same one to remove a screw from a bicycle brake rotor and they are damaged immediately without generating enough torque
Hi Scott! Maybe dumb question, but did you use your drill in reverse, while tried the screw remover stuff?
Believe in him, I already bought this kit, I've already tested it and the material is rubbish. The metal is completely soft and comes apart without causing any damage to the screw. If you have this kit and it works, you were probably lucky enough to buy one made from quality metal.
No he did not.
I've used this kit before with moderate success. It works, but the screw can't be very hard to remove.
Excellent video once again! Do love those VFDs! Have you considered testing P-Tap connectors to split the cable? Doesn't cut in like a normal T-Splitter. Not sure about the resistance, but it would be a great demonstration. :D
I love these series. You get to test the things I'm too afraid to waste money on... The risk sometimes is definitely worth it though! Great find on the breakout board.
Keep it up!
Much love from the UK!
Great Scott! These VFDs are loveliness - I'd love to get a 4x20 one for my vacuum tube tester, to make it even more funky than it is now.
Thanks for the info on these ESP32 modules with display. That's definitely gonna come in handy for IoT / home automation projects.
the screw extractor isn't meant to go full speed but rather full torque slow speed.
you have to push it against the screw so the reverse teeth will bite into the metal then extract the screw
Yep. Tried it all. Didn't work.
Almost looks like when testing the screw extractor that you had the screw extracting tap rotating in clockwise motion? And even if not, the hole was too big to start with and the tap was bottoming out and not capable of grabbing the screw. Could be that the exctractor is just plainly bad, but to me it looked like that the hole in the screw could have been too big in the first place.
I tried pretty much every possible technique when it comes to this thing. Nothing worked.
about the T-splitter connector: I've seen it used in some contexts in which you need to "steal" current from an existing setup that might be quite tight without redoing the wiring for example to add some stuff to a car, an example is stealing power from the high beams of your car to send the opening signal to your garage door. (and make it so that it only works once per activation and not that it keeps pressing if you enable them, it's meant to go with a quick flicker of course) and in that case it can work fine because it makes you access the cables without fiddling with them too much
For the 4.2v/5v module. There is same modules for the same price but with Type-C soldered available, they come with usb a unsoldered and can be used right away, no extra connector is required.
Instantly bought a few of those LCD screens and ATX bench supply breakouts. Those are such good deals it's insane
There are mh-cd42 boards on Ali that have the USB attached as well. The only issue I've had with them is they power off when disconnecting the supply power for a second before switching over to the battery. I'm not sure if that's just an issue with the specific board I got or if it's a function of that chip.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
I can confirm the cutoff
Das war wirklich ein super Video. Diese Videoserie "hidden gems" ist einfach nur krass. Bitte öfters ❤❤ deine videos schaue ich immer mit Chips 😂😂
the damaged screw thing can work if you have a drill bit to drill out a bit of the head of the screw and then use the other side of the extractor to take it out. it is an inconvenience but works in a pinch
Believe in him, I already bought this kit, I've already tested it and the material is rubbish. The metal is completely soft and comes apart without causing any damage to the screw. If you have this kit and it works, you were probably lucky enough to buy one made from quality metal.
Those 5v booster were really great but the variant with the IP5306 chip in it are way more reliable than the other variants
With those, can you for example program it so like turn on charge at 3.9v and off at 4.2v? I'm using a TP4056 in the car and it wastes so much energy just constantly charging an 18650 that's hooked up to my tablet that is turned off
I really like these kind of videos, toying with random electronics from wherever.. really fun to watch
Love this series of Aliexpress hidden gems.
Did you set your drill counterclockwise for the extractors?
Yep. I tried it every possible way.
@@greatscottlab were the extractor bits hardened. i have a box store bought version that is hardened and they bite into screws and rip them out with ease. could be a knock off version that skipped steps to get out the factory cheaper.
Thanks Scott for this episode! I had a similar experience with screw extractors (completely useless) and cable splitters/connectors (carefully to be used if at all, I used them once, outdoor for 12V with 0.75 mm2 wires, and covered from rain place, also adding some silicone inside)
I personnaly used similar screw extractors once and it worked. There are a few videos on the internet that compares them, I may find a link if you want
The T splitters are actually very useful for adding to an electrical harness in a car without cutting the wire. I would not use it for anything high current, but they were awesome for connecting the backup light wire to my dashcam/backup cam. I did not want to cut the existing wire, and I wanted it to be removable.
Your complaint that there is only one size is unfounded as there are at least three sizes available.
I would recommend adding dielectric grease to the connector before attaching it to the wire.
The extractors:
-Will never work if you wobble the drill all over. That hole needs to be a precise size and wobbling will absolutely ruin it.
-Only work on _soft_ metals, steel screws aren't soft, brass/bronze/aluminum all work.
Next video you should make a Photodiode Geiger counter , its a interesting project
I can put it on my to do list :-)
@@greatscottlab
Thanks friend 😀
Kinda looked like an infomercial failing on purpose with the easy-outs. Cheaping out is definitely not a good idea when it comes to bits but if you use them with patience and precision (keep the hole as tight as possible i.e. no wiggling around) and using the correct rotation directions then you can certainly save parts. I'd also test it in metal, not wood, as you're likely to be dealing with machine screws trying to save something expensive, not a 2x4.
All that said, even with the best bits following best practice, sometimes they just make it worse. Sometimes you just gotta drill and retap.
Thank you, I really enjoy seeing cool new inventions that don't really make it into the mainstream. Your diligence and expertise certainly add a lot of value, much appreciated.
Please keep making these videos. They are entertaining and so are you.
If you like VFDs then character OLEDs are a good alternative. They have superb contrast and viewing angle, and work in many devices that use the HD44780 LCD protocol. They used to be real cheap before the pandemic (US$8 for a 16x2 display) but availability is not so good now and prices have gone up, but they're still way cheaper than VFDs.
Also more durable... VFDs are best for things like HiFi equipment and microwaves where they're not moving. OLEDs will be less upset about bumps. Plus much lower power consumption
@@DoctorX17 ehh, VFD were used extensively in cars for many many years before LCDs were readily available. They are plenty durable. Cheap OLEDs are prone to burn in unless you plan to write your code to actively minimize it. Definitely not idea for an always-on display.
@@turbo2ltr true… fine with shock dampening. But I dunno if I’d put them in handheld projects. And yeah, OLED does have that issue, VFDs can be always on for ages
The big problem with VFDs is they eventually lose brightness and become unreadable. That's probably not too bad for these generic ones but for custom ones such as often found in microwaves and hi-fi equipment, this becomes an issue. I'm actually planning on seeing if I can swap some out and use OLED displays instead (obviously this would require some sophisticated microcontroller work).
@@chaos.corner it depends on the VFD - some are HD44780 compatible. I run a FB group (Music Gear Display Retrofits) focussed on finding new displays for old synths.
I like the t connectors for automotive use where you may not be able to easily cut and splice. I used them to get power for a backup camera from my reversing lights. They’re available in other sizes too.
Hmmmm Ok. If there really is no other way then yes......I still do not like them though.
Handy until your backup camera randomly stops working. These kinds of connectors are really hit and miss in terms of reliability, no matter how correctly you install it.
@@greatscottlabI don't have these t connectors but I had my eyes on them already. I partly agree and disagree with you, though. Of course, it's way more elegant and safer to use wagos where you can. These come in handy where you need a junction, but don't have slack, just as OP mentioned.
Furthermore, while I agree that it won't fit to every cable size, you simply choose another one. And no, wago might be more flexible in this regard, definitely not fit for every wire size, that's misleading.
This style of connection (idc) is ages old and the cause of so many electrical issues I deal with it's not a joke anymore... ask anyone about scotch lock connectors in vehicles ( same style of connection) .
They have one redeeming feature..they help keep me employed.
The last module is really a true gem we needed. 👍
This video series has been the one im most hyped about. I am always looking for fun and cool gadgets/parts. Thank you for the work you are putting into your videos!
Every gangsta untill Aliexpress speaker start to diss you in Chinanse
Haha
So disappointed about the drill bits, I thought they would work and save me from my stripped screws nightmare 😢
I couldn't write yep from the video... He did realise you need to run the spiral extractor bit slowly and in reverse, right?
@@alaricsnellpym Yes. Trust me, I tried it in every way possible. Maybe German screws are just too hard
Seeing this 2 days after I ordered it😢
@@greatscottlabyou can try drill that screw heard by outside high quality drill bits instead that trash bit heard
Wait hold on it is 4 days old video?
Hey! Just wondering, what wire strippers do you use at ~3:30 into the video?
I really like that ATX breakout board! Looks super useful.
The T-splitters come in handy for car audio, I have used them many times and have never had an issue. Plus being so small it really helps on where you can T in.
Wait, why are the comments 4 days old?
Early access for patreons I assume
Patreon supporters can watch early ;-)
😂
We live in a society
The solder pads are used with a regular pinheadder so u could integreat it into your project easyly ig
I like that esp32 screen product.
I haven't worked with those before but I am imagining some use cases. Like it could be a monitoring tool. You walk up to whatever device and it would show its status, plot some nice graphs, allow changing parameters. All of this without having fancy IOT hardware or screens on the stationary devices.
It is worth mentioning that ATX PSUs are designed to output the rated power only if both +5V and +12V rails are loaded. If you have a 500W PSU that claims to deliver 250W on each of these lines, it doesn't mean that it would give you that if the other line is idle. So if you need to pull a large current from one, hook up some dummy load, like a lightbulb to the other.
The T-splitters are great for debugging prototypes. I use them all the time, just clip on where you need them and tape over when you are done
Hmmmm Ok.
Thanx for creating these product vids. I find them very helpful, when looking to build a project. Most of these I can source locally too.👌😎
The T-terminal has several advantages.
Firstly, there are situations where the wire does not have extra length, so it cannot be cut and stripped as with Wago.
Secondly, there are places where it is difficult to reach with a tool, and it is more convenient to simply clamp the terminal with pliers, and then crimp the wire in a comfortable location.
Thirdly, the T-terminal allows you to return the wire to its original state by simply adding a bit of insulation, and there is no need to solder the wire again.
The solar panel meter would be an interesting item for a DIY or buy video.
These are some of my favourite videos. Only problem is, I like to buy little electronic gadgets because “I’ll probably use it, it’ll come in handy, that’s cool” and have been known to spend a fair amount of money on things to just sit in my cabinets and never see light of day 😂
Have ordered the ATX board a week ago, should be with me soon.
The PSU / UPS board looks good but can it be adjusted to run 5.3V as I need that for my GPSDO and time server and would solve so many problems for me.
These screw extractors look a bit different to ones i've used but generally once the hole is drilled you would have to tap the extractor down into the screw with a hammer and then try to twist. Do they do a server power supply breakout board?
I loved the last two devices you reviewed. I'm definitely leaving them on my favorites and will look into your Lab Bench PSU project too.
im loving this series, keep them coming
I love this series, please keep them coming!!
I was just this morning thinking about wanting to use a VFD for a project, and then you post this video! Amazing timing, thank you
is the screen for ESP better or equivalent to Nextion ?
I used Nextion for several projects and the programing interface was quite simple to use.
A fun and informative video. What brand are those wire strippers? I seem to be so many but none seem to strip very well! Also, the best thing about the screw extractors is that once you have a set, you never need to use them. I've had mine for years, and they remain as-new.
I actually have that exact set of screw extractors, and successfully extracted a few screws with it. I found that using the smallest hole making side of the head first and then using the extractor bit that was 1 size larger works for me, needs a bit of force towards the screw to make the extractor side of the bit bite the screw head to start unscrewing it.
The smallest screw I extracted was a screw from a dead 2.5" disk that was holding on to a disk caddy, and the largest was something similar to what you showed in the video.
for the stripped screw extractor you must do it slowly or it will just destroy the screw even more
Incredible video like usual. I had a question about the LiPo charging / discharging circuit. So you said it auto powers off if the load is not big enough. Does it power back on if a load is applied again?
actually considered buying that atx breakout board a while ago (but i already did my atx-psu-based desk wiring before that so i didn’t buy it) nice to see it here and good to know it’s good
I think those connectors you showed first would be good when fitting dashcams or telemetry black boxes to cars, where there isn't enough slack to cut the wires and add a terminal block.
The ATX power breakout board is absolutely crucial. I LOVE IT.
Would have been nice to share the links to the info on the ESP32 LCD Board. I have one but finding any info on using it has been sparse to say the least. If you can, please share any additional info you have on this with us. I know I'd appreciate it. And maybe a few others as well.
I used those T wire splicers in my last job as a laundry repairman. A lot of different retrofits included those to supply power to new card readers to replace the coin slots in older machines. Though the spade connectors were usually precrimped on the wires included with the retrofit.
You had a job fixing broken trousers and blouses? Cool. ;)
Immediately picked up 2 of those ESP32 boards with the display. The displays on their own are usually more than that, thanks for that link. Built in micro SD card reader is really nice too
I love VFD's they have such an iconic look. Especially those red ones you sometimes find.
I just picked up those battery boost converter/charger modules from Amazon last week.
Great to see the evaluation.
Great reviews. Could you please let me know about the device you are using to test the load of devices under test in many of your videos?. For example @12:17 for testing the ATX PS Breakout board? Thank you.
Wow, I have view many videos that promise hidden gems but yours really deliver, thanks 👍
Great video.
Could you make a video on adding the efficiency mode to the DC power meter one of your viewer made?
I really like these hidden gems videos. I have used a few of those LiPo Charger/Booster boards. The auto power off usually ruins them for my projects.
The ESP32 LCD looks awesome. I will have to order one. Thanks.
oh yeah, the dreaded auto power off. Useless as always.
I can see those T-Splitters being useful for only one thing, Speaker wiring, when splitting for parallel use etc :)
Hey. Is it possible with the ATX Power supply board also more voltage to get ? Is the 12 volt maximum or we can get also more ? Thanks
Not more. Sorry. I made a video about that topic as well :-)
I love the VFD tube displays. They're fast and easy to read. I daily drive a 1988 Cressida that have VFD tube based digital instrument cluster
Have you tried any of those mini handheld oscilloscopes? I'd like to get an oscilloscope but not sure I'd use it enough to get a more expensive large one.
Would that 5v board work like a 5v ups or is it not suitable for that function?
Those screw extractors.. make sure the drill is in reverse and going slower!
I have similar extractors and they generally work ok.
What was the low voltage cutoff of the battery circuit? It's often 2,5v which is too low, I wish I could find some battery protection circuit that cuts off at 3v, very hard to find. I have looked may times.
I've been using those little battery charger/5v boost boards for a while now and they're awesome! But I also agree, the fact it turns off with low current is frustrating. If it's used for a project with a MCU, you can set a pin to send a little pulse to the "key" line every few seconds to keep it awake, though.
ah good to know.
I’ve successfully used similar screw extractors - except on a hardened steel bolt. It could simply not find purchase on the metal. That time I had to dremel a slot with a grinding disk and apply a flathead to get it out.
that battery charging circuit is really good for my project and such a low price i have never seen. Thanks for this series!
The "T-Splitter Connector" has been used where I work because a client required a modification to existing hardware (1000+ systems). The technicians did not necessarily know much about wiring. The wires were crimped in factory, then the technicians just had to use pliers to put blue splitter on blue wire, plug in the already crimped wire and done. That was fast, required no technical knowledge at all, only one plier. I don't remember the exact cost but I think it was even cheaper than a wago connector. So I think it has its uses.
T-splitters are communally used in vehicles for aftermarket accessories, I used these when in the past while installing alarms / remote starters on cars. They have 3 sizes red, blue and yellow, red for thinner wire, blue for mid and yellow for wire around 10 gauge.
The MH-CD42 battery charger/boost converter is flooded around aliexpress. Although it's a good product, but there're some problems.
First, it has a idle auto shutdown feature, as you said. But the idle current is never accurate. It's 20mA(some say 25mA, see how messy it is?) according to specs, but I've experienced some unit still shutdown under 90mA loading. However, there's a "upgraded" version without the auto shutdown feature comes in white PCB, about 4x price. But it seems became rare, not easy to buy. Also the form factor is a big issue. You see the button is either on board or optionally connect via a pad on the PCB by soldering a wire. This make no sense for anything isn't prototype. Also since it's flooded on market, there's no similar module with similar specs and features set under similar price but for SMT. As in my option, this isn't production ready, it actually increase difficulty&cost for sourcing suitable module for productions. As an example, I end up use two modules, one for charging and one for boost in some past project.
For drill extractors you need to use a hand tool, in my experience the slowness as well as added pressure help it grip!
for the ATX breakout board I wouldn't go above 15A for 5V, 10-12A for 3,3V and 6-8A on 12V due to connector having 5 wires for 5V 4 for 3,3V and only 2 for 12V
more on this... always nice to find good trinkets to experiment with
I use that screw extractor at work sometimes, definitely works, you should not go full power with the drill, first drill a hole deep enough, then put the wedge screw in and hammer it into the hole if needed, then while pushing you need to reverse slowly with highest torque setting/impact driver
Thanks for explaining the charger booster chip. I got a bunch sent free with some tp4056 chips I bought and had no idea what to do with them.
When it spoke Chinese, I remembered that flight meme in shorts lately "The blutooth is so cheap here" 😂
Bear in mind that those little lithium power bank boards that simultaneously charge an 18650 and produce a steady 5v output invariably have a low current cutoff that sits around 50mA, so if you're planning on using it for low power applications you're going to have a very bad time. It's quite literally impossible to find one that doesn't have a low current cutoff unfortunately, believe me I've tried.
In that circumstance it's much better to just use a small boost or buck board to convert the 4.2v from the 18650 to 3.3v or 5v depending on your needs, and design your project to have a replaceable cell so you can just take out the empty cell and stick in a freshly charged one as necessary. For low powered applications you'll only have to change your cell every few months at the most, so it's not a bad trade off.
Somebody above mentioned that on thst particular board there is a pad on the pcb to disable low current power off. Your prayers are answered.
@@procrastinator1842 Not quite, these MH-CD42 power bank modules don't have a method for fully disabling the low current cutoff, they just have a "key" pin you can pull to ground (eg, with a tactile button) in order to tell it to turn back on after it's turned itself off. You can't just pull it to ground permanently and have it constantly produce a 5v output - believe me, I've used these exact modules in dozens and dozens of projects at this point, and if you try and bypass the cutoff by tying the key pin to ground all that happens is after a minute or so the module switches itself off again and won't turn back on until the key pin is allowed to go high.
@@sfdntk Damn.
First of all Thanks GreatScott! for the awesome Videos that you have been making! I have a question, do you have a video on the power meter that you show at the 12:18 time stamp? if not do you have a link to the specific model you have? Thanks!