I bought an 1867 Danish Rolling Block about 30 years ago and rebarreled it with a 33” Douglas round barrel with 1-20 twist. Nice thing about the single shot is that you do not have to trim the cases for this bullet. Granted, my go to is my own cast and powder coated bullets or non powder coated SPG lubed 1-30 blend soft cast. But these FTX bullets are dang good for elk and mule deer. I do shoot these in my Siamese Mauser actioned bolt gun I built in 1993 and use the same full length cases on it. You can drive them hard in the Mauser action and push 2445 fps from my 25” barrel. I am running these at 1644 fps from the rolling block with no pressure issues in the weaker rolling block action.
With long, straight walled cases like the 45-70, flaring the case mouth is crucial to prevent the bullet from going in at an angle and deforming the case. Good video.
I also load these bullets for my 45-70, the issues I had are as follows, I bought the RCBS Trim Pro 2 to trim my cases and found out the universal head would not accept 45-70 brass even though the description on the box said it would. I called RCBS and they were well aware of this, their solution was to send me the old style head with the holder for 45-70 brass, all free of charge, their support is awesome, i received everything in about a week and a half which is great considering I am in Canada. The reason I am really bringing this up is because while I was on the phone with RCBS I told the guy I bought the trimmer exclusively for 45-70 to trim the brass down to 2.040 to use with the Hornady FTX bullets, he told me their dies were not designed to apply a crimp to 45-70 brass that was this short so if you are using RCBS dies to crimp you probably are not getting a proper crimp which is critical for this round in a lever action. Lee dies also won't work, even their factory crimp one on brass this short as you already mentioned. I bought the dies from Hornady and the crimp is perfect, there are also others that work as well.
I have done extensive load development with this combo and a 24 inch 1895. I used Hornady brass, CCI #200's and various charge weights up to 47.9 grains of IMR 4198. I even took it above book max for the 4198 and Reloader 7. It is very hard to shoot this rifle well at the bench with all the recoil. I found putting a 10lb'ish sandbag between my shoulder and the rifle makes shooting it fun. Hornady's max charges with R7 and IMR 4198 are compressed. If you go over those you will have to turn your seating die down, or the bullets will pop back up. I made it to 2150fps with R7 compressed big time. I don't like super compressed loads so gave up there. I then tried 4198. I think super compressed, i made it to just over 2100fps. In the end.... 47.9 grains of IMR 4198 is my load for mild climates. I clock about 2050fps in the 24" with very good accuracy. I use the Redding FTX profile crimp die. I have noticed a huge degradation in accuracy if you crimp too much. Don't let the gun heat up!! It will start shooting all over the place.
I have hunted and reloaded the 45-70 for 54 years. Many loads and many types of guns. I hunt with a Marlin 1895 Classic. My go to load for deer is a Barnes 250 gr copper, pushed by Accurate 1680 at 2,500. The bullets touch at 50 and 100 yards. For heavy work, Barnes 300 gr with Accurate 1680 at 2,200 fps. Makes Elk real dead. These are not max loads! Barnes manual used for all loads and components.
Redding makes a die to crimp the shortened .45-70 cases. You can also use the Hornady 546566 die set with the Hornady 397120 FTX seating stem. If you don't want the complete die set you can just use the Hornady 044152 seating die with the Hornady 397120 FTX seating stem. You can seat and/or crimp the 325 grain FTX bullets... People have also reported that grinding or machining one or two thousandths of an inch from the bottom of the Lee crimp die works as well. Nice rifle too!
I'm getting ready to start load development for my 1895 CBA using Starline brass, 350 grn Berry's copper plated bullets and 4198. Right now I have to empty some brass so I can get going on my project. Having fun doing it though!
Very cool Glade see walk through this lot guys avoid this in 4570. But bullet works. My dad has hammer big white tail with it drops them. We recover one bullets this year in big pa buck this year. Buck two hits get down. Shot 4 other shots through opening get big boy down hit 5 when he turn back to him. I missed one archery and missed nice doe at 5 yards bc I use 3006 with scope didn't use my iron sights.
you will save components and time if you load for a Satterle test. testing for nodes. 1 shot at each charge weight over chronograph. then from results load 3 shot groups for best accuracy.
I have done that method and it’s not enough data for me. I like to get at least five shots for data points. But I get what your sayings. There are for sure many ways to skin a cat. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Starline is nice 45-70 brass but I don't reload with FTX bullet, usually it's cast I use. Marlin guide gun, Marlin classic 1895, winchester 1886, Pedersoli 71, Shiloh Sharp's 1874, C. Sharps 1874, Winchester 1885, Ruger No.1, and an old original Springfield 1884. Yeah, I've used 45-70 many different rifle models
my best accuracy out of a henry rifle w 22" barrel using 43.2 of 4198 and 325 bullet (not the hornady bullet) shooting at 1894 fps, shoots sub moa. standard size brass.
I think u tried to create a video for the beginner but didn’t explain any of the equipment you are using. If you had the correct die from the beginning, would you still need to use both press tools? Is one a crimper and the other set tool? I have a lot of questions.
I use two presses bc that’s just how I load. Normally how I load is I seat the bullet then crimp. In this case the brass is shorter to use the ftx bullets. So my factory crimp die did not work as you saw per the video. I dudt really make the video for ppl to learn more just the experience of me doing for the first time.
I have a Marlin CB1895, 45/70 , 26 in barrel, love it. Now have a Uberti 1885 High Wall 45/70, 30 in barrel, Do you know where I can find what pressure I can reload this rifle too?
using those bullets ruins your brass for future use with any other bullet. they will be too short. i refuse to use that bullet. i use the 300grain hp interlock
That is my normal process but I don’t have a comparator for 458 bullets. And for what I am doing thus works for now as this is not precession ammo. Also comparator tells you how consistent the ammo is being seated. Does not tell you your COL. Also long as you are not pressing home to hard thus measurement gets you close to where you need to be.
@@ReloadingQuest That is what the brass is already at. I just am new to 45-70 and Hornady's book says to be at the 2.040. I just am not sure if it is safe to be slightly below that.
Thank you for choosing Starline brass.
For sure! Wish I could use you guys for everything!
Make more brass please! We have to pay gouged prices from outside sellers at the moment.
Please start making.35 Remington brass!
I bought an 1867 Danish Rolling Block about 30 years ago and rebarreled it with a 33” Douglas round barrel with 1-20 twist. Nice thing about the single shot is that you do not have to trim the cases for this bullet. Granted, my go to is my own cast and powder coated bullets or non powder coated SPG lubed 1-30 blend soft cast. But these FTX bullets are dang good for elk and mule deer. I do shoot these in my Siamese Mauser actioned bolt gun I built in 1993 and use the same full length cases on it. You can drive them hard in the Mauser action and push 2445 fps from my 25” barrel. I am running these at 1644 fps from the rolling block with no pressure issues in the weaker rolling block action.
With long, straight walled cases like the 45-70, flaring the case mouth is crucial to prevent the bullet from going in at an angle and deforming the case. Good video.
I also load these bullets for my 45-70, the issues I had are as follows, I bought the RCBS Trim Pro 2 to trim my cases and found out the universal head would not accept 45-70 brass even though the description on the box said it would. I called RCBS and they were well aware of this, their solution was to send me the old style head with the holder for 45-70 brass, all free of charge, their support is awesome, i received everything in about a week and a half which is great considering I am in Canada. The reason I am really bringing this up is because while I was on the phone with RCBS I told the guy I bought the trimmer exclusively for 45-70 to trim the brass down to 2.040 to use with the Hornady FTX bullets, he told me their dies were not designed to apply a crimp to 45-70 brass that was this short so if you are using RCBS dies to crimp you probably are not getting a proper crimp which is critical for this round in a lever action. Lee dies also won't work, even their factory crimp one on brass this short as you already mentioned. I bought the dies from Hornady and the crimp is perfect, there are also others that work as well.
Good to know thank you.
I have done extensive load development with this combo and a 24 inch 1895. I used Hornady brass, CCI #200's and various charge weights up to 47.9 grains of IMR 4198.
I even took it above book max for the 4198 and Reloader 7.
It is very hard to shoot this rifle well at the bench with all the recoil. I found putting a 10lb'ish sandbag between my shoulder and the rifle makes shooting it fun.
Hornady's max charges with R7 and IMR 4198 are compressed. If you go over those you will have to turn your seating die down, or the bullets will pop back up.
I made it to 2150fps with R7 compressed big time. I don't like super compressed loads so gave up there.
I then tried 4198. I think super compressed, i made it to just over 2100fps.
In the end.... 47.9 grains of IMR 4198 is my load for mild climates. I clock about 2050fps in the 24" with very good accuracy.
I use the Redding FTX profile crimp die. I have noticed a huge degradation in accuracy if you crimp too much.
Don't let the gun heat up!! It will start shooting all over the place.
The Forster Co-Ax is a sweet press! I also like that vintage metal powder can you use.
I have hunted and reloaded the 45-70 for 54 years. Many loads and many types of guns. I hunt with a Marlin 1895 Classic. My go to load for deer is a Barnes 250 gr copper, pushed by Accurate 1680 at 2,500. The bullets touch at 50 and 100 yards. For heavy work, Barnes 300 gr with Accurate 1680 at 2,200 fps. Makes Elk real dead. These are not max loads! Barnes manual used for all loads and components.
Cool I will check those out! Thanks for the comment and watching!
Awesome video looking forward to the range video hope you have a great weekend.
Redding makes a die to crimp the shortened .45-70 cases.
You can also use the Hornady 546566 die set with the Hornady 397120 FTX seating stem. If you don't want the complete die set you can just use the Hornady 044152 seating die with the Hornady 397120 FTX seating stem. You can seat and/or crimp the 325 grain FTX bullets...
People have also reported that grinding or machining one or two thousandths of an inch from the bottom of the Lee crimp die works as well.
Nice rifle too!
Awesome! Thanks for the helpful info!!
Using the hornady short brass, just put it on top of the shell holder, and it will crimp.
I'm getting ready to start load development for my 1895 CBA using Starline brass, 350 grn Berry's copper plated bullets and 4198. Right now I have to empty some brass so I can get going on my project. Having fun doing it though!
How have you liked the Berry's
Very cool Glade see walk through this lot guys avoid this in 4570. But bullet works. My dad has hammer big white tail with it drops them. We recover one bullets this year in big pa buck this year. Buck two hits get down. Shot 4 other shots through opening get big boy down hit 5 when he turn back to him.
I missed one archery and missed nice doe at 5 yards bc I use 3006 with scope didn't use my iron sights.
you will save components and time if you load for a Satterle test. testing for nodes. 1 shot at each charge weight over chronograph.
then from results load 3 shot groups for best accuracy.
I have done that method and it’s not enough data for me. I like to get at least five shots for data points. But I get what your sayings. There are for sure many ways to skin a cat.
Thanks for the comment and watching!
Nice
Redding makes a Crimp-Series B 45-70 FTX Die 86262
Sweet thanks!
My Lee crimp die doesn’t give any crimp on .45-70 cases either. I switched to Hornady dies and love them.
Yep same here!
I use RCBS dies for all steps. But only for the crimp it's a Lee die :-) I got the "Pacesetter Dies" and the crimp of the seating die is good for me
You'er doing something wrong. Mine works excellent!
@@daviddejong187 your doing different bullets
@@daviddejong187 I’ve crimped about 20,000 cases, I’m pretty sure I know what I’m doing.
Starline is nice 45-70 brass but I don't reload with FTX bullet, usually it's cast I use. Marlin guide gun, Marlin classic 1895, winchester 1886, Pedersoli 71, Shiloh Sharp's 1874, C. Sharps 1874, Winchester 1885, Ruger No.1, and an old original Springfield 1884. Yeah, I've used 45-70 many different rifle models
What were the results, I don't see a follow up video.good video thank you.
Best group shot at 1.25 inches. I had a video up but was taken down.
@@ReloadingQuest thank you
@@jeffreylunsford1867 no problem. Thanks for watching
my best accuracy out of a henry rifle w 22" barrel using 43.2 of 4198 and 325 bullet (not the hornady bullet) shooting at 1894 fps, shoots sub moa. standard size brass.
I got great results with 405 gr JSP bullets in my other 45-70 video
This one
czcams.com/video/EoV66WzeQHE/video.htmlsi=vjjR63CRqnnj9M5r
AR mount is too high for a lever
Thanks. Have you done the range video yet?
The rifle is awesome, but that optic mount is terrible.
How is it terrible? I can see the iron sites if the green dot failed?
Too high over the bore. Can't get a cheek weld.
I think u tried to create a video for the beginner but didn’t explain any of the equipment you are using. If you had the correct die from the beginning, would you still need to use both press tools? Is one a crimper and the other set tool? I have a lot of questions.
I use two presses bc that’s just how I load. Normally how I load is I seat the bullet then crimp. In this case the brass is shorter to use the ftx bullets. So my factory crimp die did not work as you saw per the video. I dudt really make the video for ppl to learn more just the experience of me doing for the first time.
Do you have a good site for getting reload supplies? Also what brake are you getting? I want a good brake for my trapper.
Midway USA or Graf and Sons be a good site for reloading supplies. Break is from Ranger Point .
I have a Marlin CB1895, 45/70 , 26 in barrel, love it. Now have a Uberti 1885 High Wall 45/70, 30 in barrel, Do you know where I can find what pressure I can reload this rifle too?
That a trap door one?
@@ReloadingQuest no , Uberti replica 1885 highwall, falling block, I'm thinking 28,000 CUP MAX
@@rloebker4473 I would look in reloading data books. That will be different then a lever gun. Also never follow load data off someone video 👍🏻
What crimp die are you using?
I use the Lee die but I milled the face down of the die down so it works with the Hornady FTX bullets.
@@ReloadingQuest thanks.
Swxy rifle. No doubt I want one
Seating and crimping at the same time is a no go yo. I can't stand the idea even lol
Just bought the Ruger Marlin 1895 trapper, want to reload so I woukd like to see the process.
It’s a great gun. It’s accurate with these bullets. I plan to do more loading this spring for it. Thanks for watching and commenting
using those bullets ruins your brass for future use with any other bullet. they will be too short. i refuse to use that bullet. i use the 300grain hp interlock
Good luck finding 45-70 brass.
I got lots of it.
Why have propane torch near powder..you nuts...
Na it’s not black powder . Plus if ur not paying attention properly don’t handload at all.
You should measure your OAL to bullet 'O' give not to bullet tip as this is inconsistent. Comparator required.
That is my normal process but I don’t have a comparator for 458 bullets. And for what I am doing thus works for now as this is not precession ammo. Also comparator tells you how consistent the ammo is being seated. Does not tell you your COL. Also long as you are not pressing home to hard thus measurement gets you close to where you need to be.
Is it fine to trim to 2.025?
For the Hornady FTX 325 you have to
@@ReloadingQuest I was asking if it’s fine (safe) to trim .015 below the recommended 2.040.
@@jclockard why trim below? Or is that what the brass is at?
@@ReloadingQuest That is what the brass is already at. I just am new to 45-70 and Hornady's book says to be at the 2.040. I just am not sure if it is safe to be slightly below that.