Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Kirby Allison
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- čas přidán 26. 06. 2018
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Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, stops by LastMaker House in Eastbourne to get started on a bespoke pair of shoes. Dominic Casey, renowned last maker, and bespoke shoemaker go through the process of getting the foot measurements to make a last for a bespoke shoe. - Jak na to + styl
![Bespoke Shoemaking With Dominic Casey [ASMR] | Kirby Allison](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AOzuuBAaEZU/mqdefault.jpg)
Can I point something out to all of those who are making rude comments about this video? I doubt I will ever have bespoke shoes made, but that does not change the fact that the ready to wear shoes that the vast majority of us buy are approximations of this kind of craftsmanship. There's no reason not to appreciate it, and every reason to do so.
Here, here... Well said luv!! Nothing wrong with appreciating quality and handmade or bespoke things!! I think ppl are used to paying a high price for products made on mass in China or somewhere.. but not made by hand with your measurements an build in mind..! There was a time when each village had a shoe maker.. an tailor. In same store. I had shoes made as a child an young adult! Pick one thing to have made for you. You will treasure it care for it an yourself... Never poke fun at someone you find strange.. they may think the same of you. They're just mannered an wud never point out your flaws . Outta respect for your delicate nature to rudeness... So very Quickly😊💗!
I love your comment an agree. I am older a quite new to this phone. Lol!!
💗 Dk
LoganDC100 I worked in the footwear industry in Northamptonshire, trained as a pattern cutter. You are 100% correct in what you are saying. The production lasts we developed had to accommodate a huge variety of foot shapes and are a compromise at best. There are plenty of good quality ready to wear shoes available in loads of different constructions though, some available in width fittings too so most people should be able to find something they like that fits properly. Personally, I wouldn’t bother buying bespoke unless you can afford it or you have feet that are of dimensions that meant you couldn’t buy a good quality mass produced shoe off the shelf. Have made plenty of bespoke Goodyear Welted shoes myself in the past and fitting is a bit of a dark art. My approach was start off with an existing last in a shape the client liked. Get the person to try on a pair of shoes made on the chosen last and find out where there was pressure or the shoe felt loose. Then I’d measure the persons feet weight on and adjust the lasts accordingly. Would then make a trial pair on the modified last in the correct leather and have the client back to check the modifications had worked and that fit was acceptable. If all was good we’d go ahead and make the shoes for the client. Very rare we’d make a last completely from scratch unless the client had deformities that meant an existing last couldn’t be modified. It’s a great industry that I worked in for fifty years and I can honestly say I was learning new things right up until I retired. Cheers.
What a fascinating man. He speaks with the deep knowledge of long experience, and without a trace of pretension.
Bespoke shoes are for the foolish and pretentious, for on second it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them unless there are no shoes on the market that would fit.
@@CarlyWaarly "it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them" allow me to correct you. You can not see what advantage can be had from them. So they are not for you. You should be a little careful with judging from what you think is true to what is true for all of us. Those with expertise in a field will notice the most minute details - like an audio expert noticing the difference of half a percent of harmonic distortion.
at first, he seems a bit all knowing, but he is just enthusiastic
@@CarlyWaarly what an idiotic take..you're not only ignorant.. you're prob bitter you can't afford a pair.
Nearly headless Nick seems to be doing really well for himself after that whole Voldemort thing.
Expound please
hahaha looks just like him.
It’s bothered me since I’ve found this video cause I couldn’t figure out who he reminded me of. Thank you my anxiety is at peace now LOL
Lol
DONT SAY HIS NAME
He looks like he's been drawn out of a book. One I'd want to read.
I believe it was "Harry Potter and the Fallen Arches"
Inkheart for me
I am speechless after I saw in this video. There were many steps that were taken in just to make a pair of bespoke shoe. This guy, Dominic Casey really shows us the true meaning of bespoke of shoe making, congratulations. Keep it up, Allison.
Holy shit man! EXCELLENT job not rushing and asking all the intricate parts of his foot measurements 👍🏻 This is probably the best I’ve seen because you didn’t try to play up to the CZcams audience. A lot of times it comes off as insincere and unimportant if the host is more worried about the audience than what is actually taking place in front of him. Both men did an excellent job 👍🏻
This is an interesting glimpse into the parallel economy that exists for rich people. There's an entire economy of dedicated businesses like this, which exist only for the rich and could never survive in the regular competitive economy. This is the luxury economy, with specialized shops and saavy craftsmen who have built their entire livelihoods around the art of separating rich folks from their money. I find the whole phenomenon fascinating.
Although I respect the craftsmanship, refinement, time/dedication, etc. that goes into hand making such goods, your comment is on the money.
As a tradesman I know that as the highest level is the highest skill and craftsmanship. This is common buy the average Joe wont see most of those businesses for sure
This whole ultra fancy individualised attention super thorough measurements stuff is definitely for the rich. However if you look at the prices of branded trainers/sneakers and how able and willing "regular" people are to spend money on them kind of shows that the money is there to support a (slightly less attentive) bespoke shoe business. Add to this the fact that it is rare for those popular branded shoes to be manufactured in a way where they can be repaired endlessly and it actually becomes more cost effective to have shoes made. Properly made shoes can be repaired (relatively cheaply) will literally last a lifetime.
Terry Pratchett mentioned the irony of it in one of his books, that the rich can afford to live more cheaply than the common man. Because they can more easily afford the up front costs of a quality product. Sure it costs more, but they only ever have to buy it once. Regular people have to go for the "good enough" that they can afford, but have to replace their stuff endlessly and spend more money in the long run than the rich do.
Well said, and that’s the nail in the class warfare coffin that old Mbaxter22 tries to put forth.
The wearer of $1000 Yeezy sneakers is concerned about style and fad..
Kirby is concerned about materials used, fit and longevity of the product.
The former drives multi-million dollar ad campaigns with the latest influencer or sports personality wearing the sneaker because it’s cool.
The latter involves a small shop, one of a small handful of craftsman in the world that can hand make shoes and a customer dedicated to quality that’s willing to seek it out.
Yes it makes me think of the Sam Vimes boot theory and how it’s more expensive to be poor
Great choice of person to talk to! Very engaging, interesting and down-to-earth :)
This guy really likes old school, even has an iPod in the back!
It's 1AM and I'm watching a video on a guy making shoes
This is the time of day I watch this kind of stuff too lol
Me too!
You don’t have to have a foot fetish to be watching these videos, but it helps
Thanks Kirby, I was very impressed with the way he went about gathering all of the information for your shoes, as well as explaining in great detail every step and the reasons why. Now I am ready to watch him make them.
Having someone touch your foot and draw around it---I'm getting goose bumps
If you have bespoke inlays being made by an orthopaedic you can experience this first-hand (or rather first-foot😊) at a fraction of the cost compared to a whole shoe.
The attention to details is bewildering. A true master at work
I paid less attention when I’ve bought new houses than this guy does with Kirby’s feet.
Navy Suit for War
I suspect only Dominic got red in the face.
Good thing he didn't need to apologize for his sandwich breath.
this man clearly hasnt established enough
Fight fight fight
It was your face
Love the thorough ness and passion of the maker
I love the passion you have for bespoke shoes! It really shoes through in your videos and other appearing guests too!
Kirby has some serious asmr tingles going on in this.
I enjoyed that even before Dominic began measuring your feet he gathered so much information from the inside of your existing shoes. He seemed so precise and methodical. How he was able to stay squatted so long. I have flat feet and I just keep thinking how that play out if I was lucky enough to be in your position. Can't wait to see more. Another great video Kirby thanks.
Paul Castellano Yes! We have some additional videos with him we’ll be releasing soon. Very talented shoemaker!
This is really fascinating. Thank you Kirby for taking the time to create these informative videos. One of the best resources on the web.
Love the passion he has for his craft.
Not sure how I got here...but I am always interested in old ways of doing things. GREAt video and thegentleman was wonderful and expalined everything in great detail.
did you type this comment with your face?
I am intrigued that sharing this kind of knowledge and videos can be so rewarding that it allows Mr Allison to have so many bespoke shoes and bespoke wardrobe (and of course his sales through his website). All of his items are V pricey and deeply adorable. V lovely and rewarding profession.
Yes, Mr. Allison, please never stop!
Great attention to detail, Dominic seems very knowledgeable indeed, and I like his Boots they have a unique look.
Dominic casey is so indepth and absolutely amazing
I wouldnt be surprised if he said "I also need to smell the foot in order to understand the heat levels that come from the soles. I smell each foot individually because it helps me understand if there are different heat levels eminating from the foot. This information will help me choose the appropriate type of leather to match the smell. I also need to taste the foot because [fill in the blank fake measurement bs]"
Too too funny.
I shouldnt have read this comment. Now I cant watch this video without thinking he's going to do that XD
Any scientific research condones this for quality but not quality control
Leo ROFL
Ben Shapiro learned from the master
Learned so much from this video, great content. Excited to see the finished product.
Drinking game.
Every time he says 'actually', down it! 🍻
Cheers folks!
this has ASMR written all over it!
I'm on it
I was just coming to the comments to say, that I think Kirby had some serious tingles going on! Before I knew what asmr when I was a kid, I acted the same way Kirby is when teachers were talking over my shoulder explaining something in a low tone.
millhouse313 OMG! My comment was going to be on that I noticed Nike getting a bit too relaxed and not asking too many questions. Hes about to drop any minute now. 😆 He’s definitely feeling lots of tingles. 😂
꧁ Orlando Cruz ꧂ nike?
Excellent Video ... I've learned so much from it. I think this information will help me in all my shoe choices! Keep up the Great work Kirby, this is exactly the type of information I look for!
Dominic has awesome knowledge and detail about shoemaking, a true craftsman.
I don't know what's older: the knowledge passed down to Dominic Casey from shoemaker to shoemaker, or the iPod in the background.
3:57 look at that classic ipod! great memories!
This was such an educational and entertaining video. Your subject was engaging and kept my attention the entire time.
Yeah. This was a fun video. some additional great stuff forthcoming.
"we are going to measure your feet now..." picks up something that looks like a hammer.
This Maker see's with his hands, an takes a physical photo in his mind with his hands an eyes... I Kno this last will be amazing.. As his understanding of the bone structure of your foot will relate to the structure of the bespoke shoes... Excited for it Kirby Sir !? Kudos the 2 of ya..!
@7:33 - "There is nothing too dramatic going on that is going to scare anybody."
That is very funny.
haha. Yes. Luckily my feet are easy to work with.
In the past several months, I have purchase 22 pairs of men's dress shoes from Nordstrom and Ebay: All Goodyear welted! So, I will be purchasing all of my polish from your online store as well as many other items. Thank you for all that you do and for ushering in the manaissance through dressing well.
On an unrelated note, I was showing all the guys at work the Berluti knot. They were completely mystified and excited to adopted. They are all being sent your way.
Happy 4th to you and your's!
I think kirby has some asmr tingles going on in this video
Fascinating video!! I am glad that I have recently discovered this channel.
I like the part where Dominic begins to prepare to consider how to understand the structure of the foot as he begins thinking about when he's going to actually take the measurements, but not before he has thoroughly considered and begun to understand how Kirby's foot works.
Yes - for sure - I enjoyed how Dominic sought to understand the foot before beginning to measure it. I'm really excited about his shoes! Should be able to pick them up when I return to London in March 2019.
Remember Spaceballs when the Darth Vader character was like "stop preparing! You're always preparing!" Still love this guy Dominic, though. What a class act...
@@kirbyallison did he say that length is not determined by measuring the foot, but by cap toe shape?
Bespoke shoes, one of the perks of being seriously wealthy.
Not really. A simple calculation of things what people spend money on which are not needed gives $10,000 a year for people who are not wealthy. Cigarettes, alcohol, junk food. These can easily cost $10,000 a year. Anyone can have have bespoke shoes. The only advantage that the wealthy have is they do not need to save for it, where a poor person would need to save.
Jacob Kauffman fuck off
@@rankoss3437 Thank you kind for your reply.
@@yacovlk7924 A pack of cigarettes a day is estimated to cost less than $2500 per year. Only a serious alcoholic (or someone buying very expensive alcohol) could get near $10k on drinks per year. And many middle-class and lower eat junk food because it's actually LESS expensive than eating healthy. America, one of the richest per capita countries in the world, has a median income of about $31,000. Obviously, no responsible/sane parent making at or below median income ever would or should buy a $10k pair of shoes.
But I would challenge you to find anywhere NEAR $10k of disposable income from even your average single American struggling to afford taxes, rent, car payments, insurance, food, etc. And then I would challenge you to find any possible reason that money should be invested in a pair of bespoke shoes rather than an index fund.
@@bryancouillard2016 Hello sir. Good afternoon. Thank you so very much for your kind and interesting reply to my post.
I do though strongly disagree with your comments. Firstly, I live in Manhattan. Cigarettes start at $15 before tax a packet. 1-2 packets a day in average. Let's say $15.50 after tax. $15.50 x 365 days = $6,022.50 or $12, 045 for 2 packets.
But as a fair person I am, I will take your $2,500. Do you agree a person can save the $2,500 for 4 years for a bespoke pair of shoes which cost $10,000? If a person can spend $2,500 a year on cigarettes which are damaging their health then why do you think they cannot quit and save that money for a pair of bespoke shoes?
Kirby Allison has such a stellar personality. Definitely the life of the party here in this video.
Quintessential English craftsman!
I had no idea Mark Twain had a British accent. :-)
He's a character! Exactly you'd expect from a left handed shoemaker! ;)
The accent of my Twain has been greatly exaggerated
There is no such things as A Brittish Accent.
@@yacovlk7924 There is if you're in the US.
I bought a pair of boots in Clarks and they fitted beautifully
“Pencil at 45 degrees, classically”
Should be significant difference taking a weight-bearing and off weighty-bearing tracing. Foot elongates on WB. There's paper that reacts with baking soda + water and highlights those areas on the bottom of the foot which carries more weight than other areas.
Great idea splitting a relaxing ASMR video with noisy adverts that wake you up when you’re nodding off to sleep. Way to go CZcams…
Super interesting video!
Love your Dominic Casey videos!
This guy is an Einstein when it comes to shoe measurements! He said “triangulate”
Learned so much from this vidio, great content
Arabs learn something ?
I use Bicks #4 doesn’t darken but u need to apply more often. I also like Venetian shoe cream and sapphir.
Oh my - informative and interesting. "I have your shoes now - I must remove those fancy socks as well, sir. I assure you, it is necessary..."
Please, let me change your socks.
Can you do a video on the different types of leathers in a shoes? Perhaps into their manufacturing, their polishing capabilities, etc? Pebble grain; smooth, full grain, why some shoes pores fill different than others, etcetera. For example, my Florsheim or Bostonian shoes are smooth leather and all I can do in terms of pores in darken the leather as it scuffs and polish it highly, while my Allen Edmonds are quite porous and the cream polish fills them up and it is much more visible. Thank you!
Orthotics manufacturers used to employ last makers but many now have 3d scanners for feet. It'd be interesting to see how that compares with the traditional methods.
Actually, the actual actuality of the actual actuality is actually actual.
Actually that is actually very funny!
The playlist is out of order😢
I love the look of his workshop in the background all nice carved woods and vintage looking... then there's an ipod and speaker dock right in the middle.
Is there a second video showing the actual carving and the shoes? Curious to see the final products
ryan robicheaux We have two more videos with Dominic in production. One of him beginning to carve the last (incredible) and an interview with the reveal of the completed last.
Seems like a cool guy. He has an American Civil War Union officer vibe...
I just came back to this video after a while. I do wonder how a last making process be affected by a minimalist shoe wearer as myself 🤔. I might have to get a pair made for myself and see what turns out of it.
That guy should put some pad things under his knees to save them
lmaooooo
Their knee pads would cost £1000s. Each.
Love Dominic‘s boots
So I’m guessing it might be slightly insulting to call Mr Casey a cobbler ! 😀 Incredible attention to detail, the ultimate luxury.
Wonderful video and experience Kirby. Are all of your shoes bespoke?
That's a really old iPod.
I still use mine too
Probably moore Gb then the new ones.
Just came across your channel for some reason. Glad though. Very interesting video on the process of shoe making. Also notice you're left-handed.
I love to have a pair of bespoke shoes one day :)
Would love to know the difference in process between all your bespoke makers.
I absolutely dread shopping for shoes . I've spent so many years in military boots , my feet have developed strangely . might be worth investing in a well made shoe with this gentleman . like having a podiatrist go over your foot plus make your shoes !!!
Your suit is really nice man really nice choice 😎
Dominic made a pair of captoe oxfords for me. Excellent pair of shoes!
That's great! Can't wait to receive my pair. Post a picture on Instagram and tag us!
Bro it gave me goosebumps and made me sleep 😂😂😂😂damm i missed the rest of the video 😂😂😂
Establishing some shoes here
Bespoke shoe making is where the shoemaker creates your shoe by shaping a new block of wood to your measurement not using a already made shoe block and adding cork and whatnot to areas of the already made shoe tree
Me 32year old knees were hurting just watching him bend down
Super interesting video Kirby, interesting that I have very similar sized feet to you, along with slim ankle and also the prominent cuneiform, which in oxfords causes me discomfort. Have never considered bespoke, because in general G&G TG73 (along with Alfred sergeants 724) fit me fairly superbly out of the box, but I find many shoes simply don't have a narrow enough ankle, or a comfortable instep. I'd be interested to know how you've got on with off the shelf G&G lasts compared to your bespoke shoes.
Shrink1061 You might consider Saint Crispin’s. They’re able to really do some significant last modifications within their Made to order stuff they can accommodate these types of problems.
The Hanger Project yes, I’ve given them a look a few times along with speaking to Vass as well. I do enjoy the G&G shoes I own though and they’re the closest I’ve had to a bespoke fit on an off the shelf shoe, with only a little too much leather on the vamp to complain of.
Ya know there are amazing resins that you can drop a foot in, it hardens in like 10 min and voila, you pour a perfect plaster mold in no time. This seems awfully old school. I get the experience though!
Although a mould provides blueprint of ones get but it would target only the one instant the feet were positioned. This is more of a real-time analysis and how bones will adjust and react on didn't positions really.
Anyone who keeps the click wheel iPod in functioning condition definitely deserves the title of Classic
Kirby’s gonna burn those shoes after this guy gets done politely eviscerating them
Never seen Kirby so quiet. I think because he knows alot about Suits but very little about shoes.
He judges international shoe making competitions.
that guy's suit is fresh as hell. anybody know what material it might be? looks nicer than wool
Great video Kirby and great information. Dominic seems very engaging and interesting. i would love to have a course of bespoke shoe making in UK. do you recommend any? lastmaker seems has only last making course.
He was incredible. I'm not sure who has any courses on bespoke shoe making. I know Stefano Bremer has one in Florence, but it's quite expensive. €15,000 for six months.
Amazing 😻😻
what is a lastmaker? i guess i am going to look it up now
How does he stand it, I would be jumping, my feet are very ticklish, and with thin socks wow.
Dominics' poor knees. But all joking aside wonderful video!
Jellyfish 703 thousands of pounds for every pair of shoes he is crafting...so worth the kneeling
Why not just cast the foot with gypsum to have exact copy of the foot by side all the time?
Ruins the socs
This kind of shoe making is a fairly antique craft. It seems more about demonstrating the shoemaker's traditional skills and crafts rather than anything scientific.
Because you can't tack the upper part of the shoe down with nails in gypsum.. It would just crumble away
The weight of his feet is needed to measure his foot more accurate because when you apply force under of his feet, his feet begin to expand, that's why weight is important to get the exact measurements of his foot.
Just wondering why shoemakers don't make a quick set plaster cast? Podiatrists make orthotics using plaster to get an exact copy of your feet. Why not shoemakers?
My primitive understanding is that the last makers need measurements with some weight on your feet..which makes molding a little difficult
I really want a pair of bespoke work shoes now lol. Wonder what he could do for a mechanic
Foot massage included I see
You want your shoemaker to intimately know your feet! I'd be afraid to have a pair of shoes made by someone that never touched them....
@@kirbyallison good point
Ohhh god, the foot stroking, the fooooot stroking.
Are lasts being made with 3D printer?
how fast do you think he would throw you out of his shop if you walked in with a pair of crocks
I don't own any crocs but now if I ever get bespoke shoes I have to wear them to my appointments
old school ipod at 3:36
22:20 Couldn't have described it better myself.
I was surprised when he did that while seated
Will there be a follow up video? Really interested to see the rest of the process!!
I am traveling to London in early September for the first fitting! Can't wait. I'm so excited.
The Hanger Project that’s awesome!! Can’t wait to see what they look like at that stage :D
What brand of boots does the maker have on