I installed a VAPE ignition system onto my 1977 CZ 350-472.1 Sport over 7 years ago and the only issue I had with it was having to replace the engine run / kill relay 4 years ago. My son has VAPE ignition & 12 Volt alternator kits installed on his 1985 CZ 125-488.0 Deluxe, 1994 CZ 125-488.2 Deluxe and 1974 CZ 250-471.0.005 Sport bikes.
The Vape is the best thing I did to my 76 RD400. I bought my bike in an abused state and spent a year rebuilding it back to stock setup cause I love the way stock motor runs and sounds.. but! I had no problem updating the iggy system. Even with the same flat iggy timing 'curve' the bike felt like it ran more solid somehow, maybe it's the extra flywheel weight I was feeling but whatever it was I loved it. This winter I will be buying the programmer and dialing in an actual curve. I had another system on it before the Vape and it had a curve in it and wow... did it ever improve the power but it had the tinniest lightest flywheel and I didnt like the way the bike felt. I defo like heavy flywheel to smooth this baby out and keep idle rpm at a normal sane level.
Nice RD400! I did a Vape igntion on a DT250 & have considered this route for our rd350 or yds7250 also, currently running Newtronics but would like it to run okay without a battery incase the Reg/Rectifier ever goes out.
I'm installing this on a 1972 R5. The only issue I am having is locating where to attach the black wire from the Relay that VAPE provides. I know it's suppose to go to ignition power, but identifying that wire on an R5 has proven difficult. I have looked at the wiring diagram for the R5, but it's not very clear. The closest color was a Red/Yellow, but I couldn't find it. If you don't mind me asking, where was this ignition power wire available to you, and what color was it?
Hey mate I plugged mine into a brown wire at the fuse box area which is an ignition switch wire, come to think of it i think it was a wire that came from old rec/reg plug because that is now deleted because of the new rec/reg, so it’s a brown wire switched from the ignition near the fuse box, hope this helps. Cheers.
@@rechargegarage8705 Thank you for the reply! Really appreciate it. And thanks for this video and the channel, it was really helpful to contextualize the install of the VAPE!
Have you had any problem with the vape hub moving? also did you have to use the old rubber grommet to seal the opening where the wires go through? Thanks for the post!
Hi there, No I haven’t had any issues with the system or flywheel slipping, just make sure the taper on the crank is clean and dry and should be fine. You can even use some valve lapping paste to mate the 2 surfaces if you are worried about it, then clean both surfaces and assemble and yes you have to use your old rubber grommet. Cheers hope this helps.
Nice video how did you make out with timing mark? I have 1975 RD 350 and Installed Vape power dynamo system. Was difficult lining up raised notch on fly wheel to pick up because the magnet is pulling in as you install fly wheel. Was using dial indicator to set it 1.8 mm btdc and that being such a small measurement found it difficult to be accurate but i think I am on the money. Did you get the fly wheel keyed when you purchased kit? I did not . Was thinking of slotting mounting bolts on pickup for easier adjustment
Hi Johnny Thanks for the comments, I didn’t get the flywheel keyed as I may need to move it again if I put different brand pistons in as the crown height may vary but in saying that could slot the backing plate to get the adjustment. With the pick up sticking to the flywheel I have a piece of plastic that goes between the pickup and flywheel that’s correct thickness, after you tighten everything up you just pull it out and you have the correct air gap, I use this for chainsaws and stationary engines as well. Back in the day we used an old parts microfiche it was about the rite thickness. Cheers
@@rechargegarage8705 Thanks recharge was not refering to the air gap I was saying when you install fly wheel and need to align raised notch to pick up it is difficult because magnetic force pulling on flyweel I think you mentined your video alignment was close . So if your only dealing with 1.8 mm I dont know how criticul it is having perfect alignment?
@@rechargegarage8705 It's worth noting that the keyway does not hold the crank on. It's sole purpose is to make it easier to locate the rotor for timing purposes. The rotor is friction fit to the the shaft. Vape explains this vaguely in their instructions. The ideal approach is to mate the rotor to the shaft. I do this by coloring the shaft with a wide tip sharpie then using valve lapping compound to lap the two together by spinning the rotor counter clockwise on the shaft until all of the sharpie is gone. Clean it up and ou're ready to go. For added insurance you can use sleeve retainer to fill in any gaps and lock the rotor in place.
Hey mate Do it you won’t regret it, now I can run a smaller battery and it even runs better as it’s got a lot more power behind the spark. I got stuck with a flat battery once and that’s all it took to convert me, now I don’t have to worry as it still runs with a flat battery.
@@getawaywithpaul5513 yeah sweet, they are expensive but worth it I paid $800 Australian for mine as it came from the USA. Good luck with the fitting hope the video gives you a few tips.
Hi Noah Not so far I was thinking of getting it keyed but haven’t done it yet, I think as long as you tighten the flywheel accordingly it shouldn’t move. I just used my impact gun, you know when it’s tight enough. 2 ugga duggas I think.
Como podria adquirir un sistema electronic., De esos que está montando, x que tengo la moto Yamaha RD 400, pero con platinos. Gracias, x lo que pueda hacer. José Campos, Yaracuy - Venezuela.
@@rechargegarage8705 Good to know. Will be helping my son install VAPE system on his RD400C. The translated instructions are crap. They don't even mention disconnecting/removing the rectifier. Cheers.
@@ghelmeid06 cool if i can help in anyway if you get stuck more than happy, the only thing as you see in my vid is there is no neutral wire so you have to feed one into the wire sleeve down to the switch which there is enough room to do so. I'm going to get my flywheel keyed as on the 250/350 kits there not keyed and i've heard they can slip putting the timming out. Regards Chris.
Gday there, The timing part is at the 4min mark onwards if you wanted to check but that’s all I have on it, and it’s about all you need to know I think, it was my first video so I was probably a bit vague. I’ll be doing another one shortly on the Daytona engine with a different style vape ignition but same principle. Cheers
I installed a VAPE ignition system onto my 1977 CZ 350-472.1 Sport over 7 years ago and the only issue I had with it was having to replace the engine run / kill relay 4 years ago.
My son has VAPE ignition & 12 Volt alternator kits installed on his 1985 CZ 125-488.0 Deluxe, 1994 CZ 125-488.2 Deluxe and 1974 CZ 250-471.0.005 Sport bikes.
Nice mate, I think there great and work well, thanks for sharing 👍
The Vape is the best thing I did to my 76 RD400. I bought my bike in an abused state and spent a year rebuilding it back to stock setup cause I love the way stock motor runs and sounds.. but! I had no problem updating the iggy system. Even with the same flat iggy timing 'curve' the bike felt like it ran more solid somehow, maybe it's the extra flywheel weight I was feeling but whatever it was I loved it. This winter I will be buying the programmer and dialing in an actual curve. I had another system on it before the Vape and it had a curve in it and wow... did it ever improve the power but it had the tinniest lightest flywheel and I didnt like the way the bike felt. I defo like heavy flywheel to smooth this baby out and keep idle rpm at a normal sane level.
Great work, l like the system seems to work well and you don’t have to worry about breaking down if your battery dies. 👍
I had tuff wheels by skyway on my bicycle back in the late 70s
Cool video mate! Can’t wait to see a few more 😉
Sweet vid bro!
Great job well done 👍
Nice RD400! I did a Vape igntion on a DT250 & have considered this route for our rd350 or yds7250 also, currently running Newtronics but would like it to run okay without a battery incase the Reg/Rectifier ever goes out.
Thanks, it works really well and super easy to fit as you know.👍🏻
Which year is your dt? I am woundering if there is a Vape fitting for my dt 400 mx...
And then I remove the Vape electronic ignition systems from my Jawa 350 tramp and TS to replace them with points :)
I'm installing this on a 1972 R5. The only issue I am having is locating where to attach the black wire from the Relay that VAPE provides. I know it's suppose to go to ignition power, but identifying that wire on an R5 has proven difficult. I have looked at the wiring diagram for the R5, but it's not very clear. The closest color was a Red/Yellow, but I couldn't find it.
If you don't mind me asking, where was this ignition power wire available to you, and what color was it?
Hey mate
I plugged mine into a brown wire at the fuse box area which is an ignition switch wire, come to think of it i think it was a wire that came from old rec/reg plug because that is now deleted because of the new rec/reg, so it’s a brown wire switched from the ignition near the fuse box, hope this helps. Cheers.
I’m sure with a multimeter you can probe around there and find an ignition switch wire there somewhere.
@@rechargegarage8705 Thank you for the reply! Really appreciate it. And thanks for this video and the channel, it was really helpful to contextualize the install of the VAPE!
Your DTI needs to be inline with the pin on the piston crown otherwise it will under read. Beautiful bike.
Thanks Simon, no worries.👍🏻
Have you had any problem with the vape hub moving? also did you have to use the old rubber grommet to seal the opening where the wires go through? Thanks for the post!
Hi there,
No I haven’t had any issues with the system or flywheel slipping, just make sure the taper on the crank is clean and dry and should be fine. You can even use some valve lapping paste to mate the 2 surfaces if you are worried about it, then clean both surfaces and assemble and yes you have to use your old rubber grommet. Cheers hope this helps.
Looks like your front fender is on backwards.
Hey Jeff, no it’s not there’s a hole in the rear for speedo cable guide which I don’t have so it has to go that way, 👍
Nice video how did you make out with timing mark? I have 1975 RD 350 and Installed Vape power dynamo system. Was difficult lining up raised notch on fly wheel to pick up because the magnet is pulling in as you install fly wheel. Was using dial indicator to set it 1.8 mm btdc and that being such a small measurement found it difficult to be accurate but i think I am on the money. Did you get the fly wheel keyed when you purchased kit? I did not . Was thinking of slotting mounting bolts on pickup for easier adjustment
Hi Johnny
Thanks for the comments, I didn’t get the flywheel keyed as I may need to move it again if I put different brand pistons in as the crown height may vary but in saying that could slot the backing plate to get the adjustment. With the pick up sticking to the flywheel I have a piece of plastic that goes between the pickup and flywheel that’s correct thickness, after you tighten everything up you just pull it out and you have the correct air gap, I use this for chainsaws and stationary engines as well. Back in the day we used an old parts microfiche it was about the rite thickness. Cheers
@@rechargegarage8705 Thanks recharge was not refering to the air gap I was saying when you install fly wheel and need to align raised notch to pick up it is difficult because magnetic force pulling on flyweel I think you mentined your video alignment was close . So if your only dealing with 1.8 mm I dont know how criticul it is having perfect alignment?
@@johnnynewburgh9745 I pretty sure I just did it by eye, must have got it rite runs really well.
@@rechargegarage8705 It's worth noting that the keyway does not hold the crank on. It's sole purpose is to make it easier to locate the rotor for timing purposes. The rotor is friction fit to the the shaft. Vape explains this vaguely in their instructions. The ideal approach is to mate the rotor to the shaft. I do this by coloring the shaft with a wide tip sharpie then using valve lapping compound to lap the two together by spinning the rotor counter clockwise on the shaft until all of the sharpie is gone. Clean it up and ou're ready to go. For added insurance you can use sleeve retainer to fill in any gaps and lock the rotor in place.
Seriously considering doin the vape mod on my RD125 twin.Recently had charging issues and getting tired of setting points all the time.
Hey mate
Do it you won’t regret it, now I can run a smaller battery and it even runs better as it’s got a lot more power behind the spark. I got stuck with a flat battery once and that’s all it took to convert me, now I don’t have to worry as it still runs with a flat battery.
@@rechargegarage8705 yeah i think i will.Its quite an expensive mod for me here in the U/K ..im looking at over £400,but i must get it done tho 👊
Bought one today but likely to be around 4 weeks delivery,not to worry 👊
@@getawaywithpaul5513 yeah sweet, they are expensive but worth it I paid $800 Australian for mine as it came from the USA. Good luck with the fitting hope the video gives you a few tips.
It's a good mod; but absolutely must be key-wayed. Key the drum. Don't rely on friction ; they slip. Key solves that.
Does the lack of a woodruff keyway cause any issues with timing or other?
Hi Noah
Not so far I was thinking of getting it keyed but haven’t done it yet, I think as long as you tighten the flywheel accordingly it shouldn’t move. I just used my impact gun, you know when it’s tight enough. 2 ugga duggas I think.
Como podria adquirir un sistema electronic., De esos que está montando, x que tengo la moto Yamaha RD 400, pero con platinos. Gracias, x lo que pueda hacer. José Campos, Yaracuy - Venezuela.
Hi Jose
Sorry I’ll need to try and translate this.
Does the VAPE regulator eliminate both the OEM regulator AND rectifier? Or, does it just replace the regulator?
Hi
Yes it eliminated all that, it’s a charge system all on its own just needs power and an earth.
Cheers.
@@rechargegarage8705 Good to know. Will be helping my son install VAPE system on his RD400C. The translated instructions are crap. They don't even mention disconnecting/removing the rectifier. Cheers.
@@ghelmeid06 cool if i can help in anyway if you get stuck more than happy, the only thing as you see in my vid is there is no neutral wire so you have to feed one into the wire sleeve down to the switch which there is enough room to do so. I'm going to get my flywheel keyed as on the 250/350 kits there not keyed and i've heard they can slip putting the timming out.
Regards Chris.
What rear shocks are those? Ohlins??
Hi Justin
I wish they were Ohlins, there just cheap eBay ones that don’t work very well, need to buy some koni adjustable shocks I think.
Man, you just skipped the whole timing part, which was why I watched.
Gday there,
The timing part is at the 4min mark onwards if you wanted to check but that’s all I have on it, and it’s about all you need to know I think, it was my first video so I was probably a bit vague. I’ll be doing another one shortly on the Daytona engine with a different style vape ignition but same principle.
Cheers
I just got my engine back from rebuilding. Vape installed… I have a wiring nightmare
That’s no good mate, the vape is basically a circuit on its own only needs power and earth.
@@rechargegarage8705 I’m learning all the other wires are not used after install
@@mikekrodose123 yes you are correct.
@@rechargegarage8705 hey are you busy?
@@mikekrodose123 what’s up Mike.
Como Ped
Did you paint wheels yourself and frame ? If so what type paint
Hey Terence
Yes I did paint the wheels myself with 2-pak paint can’t remember the colour code and I got the frame powder coated. Cheers