Hydronic Boiler Feed Line Build
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- čas přidán 27. 10. 2019
- Building a hydronic heating boiler feed/fill line. Installation and explanation of a backflow preventer, pressure reducing valve, bypass, gauge, and isolation valves.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Pressure Reducing Valve: geni.us/oSdCH
Backflow Preventer: geni.us/VkfSAYm
1/4" Pressure Gauge: geni.us/jOBmhuh
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Videos produced by Pros DIY (www.prosdiy.com) are provided for informational purposes only. Please check with all national, state, provincial, and local codes and regulations before attempting any work. Pros DIY does not assume any responsibility or liability for any damage or injury from the information provided in our videos. Please hire a licensed, certified, professional. - Jak na to + styl
Great video. I'm studying for my Master's and have been spending hours looking through material and your video is all I needed.
Great video, I'm writing my Plumbing CFQ and have limited knowledge on hydronic heating. This was very well articulated and easy to follow along. I read another comment asking for a lengthier video of the entire hydronic system, I would second that request. Thanks again, keep posting more vids
Thank you Gagen B! Good luck on your exams! I have 2 or 3 videos planned on hydronic heating. One explaining on how a complete boiler system operates and functions. Take care!
Thanks for the video. I finally found the info of reducing valve
Very good detail video and it taught me how to turn up the pressure slightly on my auto-feed.
My new Combi boiler kept coming up with a code 55 ( fill code ) .
I would manually let the water into the boiler and it would eliminate the code and fix the problem which told me that I needed slightly a little bit more pressure.
Adjusting the pressure on the auto-feed a couple PSI made the difference and solved the problem
Thank you, great explanation.
Fantastic explanation. Excellent video.
Excellent video. Thank you very much for creating it. Continue to create these informative videos. You have a knack for creating simple to see and understand videos!
Great and clear video! I've been looking for this information to get a better understanding of my boiler.
Thanks zman4hbo! Cheers!
Thanks
heyy man thank you so much for this video! it was a great informative video. I'm a new hvac guy and i am trying to understand better boilers installs.
Thanks Arieldny! Good luck on your career journey. My favorite things to work on are boilers. I've been maintaining 15 apartment building heating systems for the past 10 years and it's a very rewarding job. All the Best!
Thank you sr
I like. How neat and how it's all pre built for the job, thumbs up from. The UK
Thanks Burgattti! Take care my friend!
the Honeywell NK300S Boiler Feed Combination does both bypass and backpressure protection.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Pressure Reducing Valve: geni.us/oSdCH
Backflow Preventer: geni.us/VkfSAYm
1/4" Pressure Gauge: geni.us/jOBmhuh
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Have you ever thought about doing a longer form video of the assembly of a system like this? There are a lot of restoration video channels that post 15-30 minute videos where they document just about everything they do during the process. I wast thinking of something like that but for this boiler system. There's a channel called mymechanics that is a good example of the style I'm thinking about.
I really enjoyed this video. As weird as it sounds, I like understanding how the mechanical systems in buildings work :)
Hi Jason, Thanks for the great feedback! I do have some videos in planning that are a bit longer. One is a complete residential boiler replacement. It will hopefully be out in a month or so. Thanks again! Take care!
Nice job. Just think a union on the other side of the feed valve would be a nice add on for servicing.
Thanks oilex oilex, I appreciate it! The PRV can still be serviced and replaced with the 1 union as there's enough room behind the board to spin it out. You're right though, it may make it slightly easier to remove. Just a personal preference that I've always done. All the Best!
Thanks for the informative video. Quick question, do I need to leave the isolation valve for domestic water open during the winter? In summer shod I drain the whole system? Thank you.
Excellent video. what if the pressure is still high after making adjustments four times? It starts at 15 to 20 after bleeding the boiler using the pressure valve, then when running the boiler it goes right up to 30 psi and it starts to leak again. I did change the pressure valve and the pressure tank a required. Please advise.
now to see if you did a video where you build a system not tied into the potable water system, just a closed radiant system. good job on this one though.
I’m thinking it would be difficult to replace the pressure regulator….having clearance to turn it off ……I would probably put another union on the other side to solve that problem…..even tho I hate unions ….they are hit or miss for me …..but other then that I am going to copy your exact set up for my boiler thank you for the layout
Can this be adjusted while the water flow is ON or does it need to have the main turned off first ? I need my pressure slightly increased but don't want to risk water flooding.
Very informative. What pressure gauge brand do you use that is dependable?
Thank you! I typically use Watts, Winters or BII.
Just wondering if you need a check valve after pressure regulator ? I put one in. I noticed the backflow always dumps. Is it check valve?
Great job - very informative. Some systems are filled with glycol and distilled water then you would not need any of this, correct? Is there any advantage to distilled water over city water? The hassle with distilled and or glycol is that you need an external pump to fill and add fluids, but not too expensive from Harbor Freight.. but then you would avoid this whole feed line costs... Thx...
A boiler system should always have a means to automatically add fluid/pressure as needed. Both this system and a tank/pump system have pros and cons. I typical install this system in commercial locations (apartment buildings, large office buildings, etc. Then if there is a leak it will automatically fill the system without running out of water. Another case is if the system was shut down and drained for service. It will automatically fill the system as the air is purged without worrying about a tank/pump style system running out of water. Some larger buildings can take days to fully purge the air from the system. It is very common for large apartment buildings to have leaks in someone's unit and they don't report it. This would eventually drain a tank style system. I installed a tank style system in my own home because I can monitor it and like you said, it eliminates the need for all these fittings. I have a video on this Axiom tank and water treatment here: czcams.com/video/NpWtYY4zXkU/video.html Most residential installs I use a fill tank. Thanks for the questions!
what is Isolation valve function? thank you
thanks for the video. What kind of situation you need to bypass the pressure reducing valve ?
A few situations are:
1. Initially filling the system. Large systems can take a long time if filling through the pressure reducing valve.
2. The pressure reducing valve fails in the closed position or is clogged with debris.
3. Quickly topping up system pressure.
4. If you have to remove or service the the pressure reducing valve, it still gives you an option to adjust pressure. This is especially important on cold winter days, by limiting the downtime of the boiler.
Thanks for the question!
@@PROSDIY thank you for replying
Going this far is good, But I would also install on that board is a Pressure relief valve as older systems I would not trust older valves......
Is a shut-off necessary on the bypass? Mine does not have a shut off on the bypass line and I'm wondering if thats why my PRV is blowing out water? I mean whats the point of the PRV if the bypass is feeding 45-60 psi into the boiler through the bypass?
Where can I buy pressure regulator
Very informative video. Can you provide the part number for the backflow preventer? I am installing a Rinnai Combi Boiler and would like to set up the same boiler feed/fill line. Thanks
Thanks Jim! The part number is: Watts LF009-QT 1/2. It's a 1/2" reduced pressure backflow preventer. Good Luck on your install!
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸: amzn.to/3m7eMUw
@@PROSDIY Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate your help! I noticed on the product information that the max operating temperature for the 009 reduced pressure backflow preventer is 180F. The Rinnai Combi Boiler i am installing has a max temperature setting of 185F. Is this a concern, or is it not an issue since the backflow preventer is installed on the feed line? Thanks again for your help!
No worries. You're correct. It won't be a problem because it's installed on the cold water feed line and that section will never see those temperatures.
@@PROSDIY Thanks again for your help!
hey, this video is awesome and very informative. the pressure on my boiler is at 50psi..i've been running it all winter like this and just realized ,IT''S ALL WRONG!!..before anything busts, i wanna reduce pressure..is it ok to reduce pressure while on, and it's been running like this? do i have to purge out any water while or before i turn counter clockwise??..or should i just empty the system, turn the feeder counter clockwise, and then fill back up? ..i'd really appreciate some help from a real pro like you, instead of the smuck that usually comes by here.
Just to make sure is your boiler a closed loop system? This means that the boiler water doesn't mix with the potable water system.
If it's a closed system you most likely can get away with a lot less pressure. I would close the boiler feed line, spin the valve counter-clockwise a turn or 2, then drain off to about 5-10 psi. Then open the feed line and see what the pressure stops at. Sometimes it can take a few hours to level out. If it's still too high, repeat the process until you're happy with the set pressure.
@@PROSDIY if i have a backflow preventer,does that make it a closed loop system?
@@fatbardhibrahimi3635 Yes, correct it does. Sorry I should have been more detailed. Usually you want 4-5 PSI at your highest connected piping/radiator. For every 10 feet of elevation above the boiler the boiler's gauge will read roughly 4.3 PSI (weight of the fluid in the piping pushing down). This means if your highest piping is 10ft above the boiler you'll want your boiler's gauge to read a absolute minimum of 8.3-9.3 PSI (4.3 PSI weight of water + 4-5 PSI recommended at highest point), but 12-16 would be fine. I hope this makes sense. This would probably make a good video :)
@@PROSDIY if i knew how to make a video, i would..lol..thank you so much for taking the time out to respond..i am a firm believer in karma, so i believe god will repay you for helping out all these people on your page..one way i guess i can repay you is to subscribe so i will do that..and once again thank you
@@fatbardhibrahimi3635 Oh sorry, I meant I might make a video on setting the correct pressure. You gave me the idea, and I'm sure you aren't the only one with that question. Thank you for the subscribe and kind words. I appreciate it.
How do you know what gauge is out 2 different readings which 1 is right ?? I have two thermometers the makers say plus or minus 4c which is a lot Fluke not cheap,and a cheap one plus or minus 4c price difference x times dearer so how do you calibrate when you can't trust them read the small print plus or minus 4c wrong answer
So turning the key out will reduce pressure on the system by increasing the resistance to the 60 psi inflow to the house?
Turning the key out (counterclockwise) will increase resistance and decreases pressure in the system. Turning the key in (clockwise) will reduce resistance and increase pressure in the system.
Pros DIY awesome thanks very much. Seems a little counter intuitive so I wanted to double check.
You are right about adding a gauge. I don’t trust my boiler gauge. It says 18psi when the heat is off and system is filled but my pressure regulator is set to 15 psi from the factory
@@ironwill04 I agree, it does seem counter intuitive. It's definitely nice to have a second gauge to double check pressures. Correct pressure is such a crucial part of the system. Thanks for the questions. Take care!
Could you tell me what valve that is you used with your pressure gauge? I can't find anything that looks like it. Is it a sweat fitting on one end and FPT on the other?
Its 1/4" MIP on the lower side and 1/4" FIP on the gauge side. I used a 1/2" sweat x 1/4" FIP bushing on the copper side to make the connection.
1/4" FIP x 1/4" MIP straight ball valve: www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves/petcocks-gauge-cocks/petcocks-gauge-cocks-121-51-61.php
1/2" sweat x 1/4" FIP flush bushing: www.completeplumbingsource.com/zurn-wilkins-1-2-x-1-4-wrot-copper-flush-bushing-ftg-x-fip
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!
@@PROSDIY Thanks!
A plumber didn't install PRV when they install a new boiler..
I check water pressure in my house and its between 35 to 40 psi. I think this is too much going to my boiler .Damn plumber...
Ya that is most likely going to be too much pressure. In a closed loop system you want roughly 4-5 psi at the highest connection. You will lose roughly 4.33 psi for every 10 feet of elevation. So this means if your highest connection is 10ft above the boiler you'd want around 14.33 PSI in the system, or 14-18 psi would be fine.
If you have an open system then line pressure is fine. This is when the boiler water is also connected to the domestic water. Usually to a hot water storage tank in a direct connection.
Video is good but why show the process of building the jig? Totally pointless and unnecessary. Not trying to be a dick but half the video is just you building the jig assembly