Gym to Crag - How to Transition to Climbing Outdoors
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2024
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The transition from gym to crag can evoke anything on the emotional spectrum of “I want to quit climbing” to “I never realized how beautiful climbing can be”. As someone who has experienced both ends of that spectrum, I hope to share some of my best insights and tips for making your time outside enjoyable. This video will break down the key components of an outdoor climbing venture including: logistics, preparation, climbing, and safety.
Intro: (0:00)
Logistics - Guidebook: (1:35)
Logistics - Mountain Project: (2:19)
Logistics - Go with a Guide: (3:00)
Preparation - The Elements: (3:30)
Preparation - Food (4:22)
Preparation - Gear: (4:55)
Climbing - Warm Up: (7:03)
Climbing - Expectations: (8:02)
Safety: (9:33)
Outro: (11:02)
---------------------- - Jak na to + styl
Something missing from this video: ethics!
Leave no trace, always. Are there local access issues? Chalk guidance? Local LNT issues like not climbing after rain or using tree anchors? Can you bring your pets?
Access is never a right, it's always a privilege, and following local ethics can help maintain that privilege
Privilege, I liked that word, rock climbing feels a lot like that, ideas worth sharing.
Bouldering safety is so important! The other day I broke my tibia in half from an uncontrolled fall
I just tore my ACL a few weeks ago after 6.5 years of bouldering, experience can blind you!
Sorry to hear that! Hope you heal up quick and sound.
Hope you both heal up quickly and smoothly 💛
Great video fantastic advice. I've been climbing in the gym for a year and got to v4/5.11a went outside and fell like crazy on 5.7s-5.9s. Totally different ball game, not seeing and knowing where the holds are is huge. Plus you have adrenaline and more fear on a rope outdoors IMO, which leads to over gripping and a faster pump.
"gym climbs are lot softer graded" I diasagree, I used to clim exclusively outside, and when I tried indoor climbing, I was shocked that I can't reach my normal grade. I think it's more due to overall differences between plastic holds placed by a man VS rock randomly created by millions of years :)
it may be because you are used to different teqniques. indoor hold usually have less friction, and are different from outdoor holds
This comes w/ good timing, considering I'm planning my first ever outdoor bouldering trip in a couple weeks. Super stoked!
super informative! I'm hoping to make this transition very soon, so I'll be re-watching this video multiple times. Thank you ^_^
Thanks for this great video, I'm starting to plan my first outdoor climb soon. This is so helpful.
Outside is too scary! Stay in the gym! Just kidding outside is where the adventure is 🤙 Stay safe out there!
PS always love your videos
Another great video!
When I'm climbing at the gym, I take lead falls at the beginning of most sessions to get the fear out of my system. Can't seem to get myself to do the same thing outdoors D:
Just do every 1st route of the day (possible most of the time). It's not as hard, as it seems.
@@leoingsonI think part of the fear of taking a lead fall outdoors is the terrain. All the jagged/rough textures really mess with my head game lol I'll try it out on a 5.6 or something next time haha
@@sighcai I transitioned some weeks ago. Practise falls are easy now. Falling off a hard route is another level for me, still.
First fall of the day is always the scariest. If you're gonna do a practice fall outdoors, be really picky with the route and the fall spot. Might be actually better to pick a harder/steeper climb so the fall will be more gentle (more air, less impact with wall). I definitely would not try the fall on a 5.6!
@@movementforclimbers I generally agree. OTOH falls in hard routes cost a lot of energy. And it's a good idea to slowly build experience in not-so-ideal fall terrain. Helps judging risks on real routes, it's surprisingly difficult. Fall distance is one thing, impact handling / tumbling another. I practise-fall a lot in 5.6's lately :)
6:17 must have for beginners, if they go to the crag without stronger friends, a beta stick. You use it for clipping first bolts on sketchy entries, but more importantly if you run out of juice or accidentally enter a much harder route than you can do, you can clip your way to the top to safely get your gear back. Turning around on hangers, big no-no.
Right after I posted this video I walked by my stick clip (beta stick as you referred), and thought... oh yea, that's important. Ideally a beginner would start their outdoor sport climbing venture with someone who has a decent amount of experience so they can avoid having to deal with any shenanigans (including stick clipping their way up a route).
I'm a big fan of No Belay Glasses Dog.
I just went bouldering outdoors at tramway for the first time. I can do V4 (lol barely) at the gym but had to quit a V1 after 20 minutes because my fingers got worn down really badly. I wasn't pumped at all, but not even tape could stop the stinging!
Any advice? I think my body positioning was trash because I kept slipping off the holds, which skinned my fingertips badly. I'm just trying to build tougher skin now before I go back. I was very humbled by the difficulty and roughness of the holds
Go outdoors more and you skin will adapt, that’s the best tip I have!
Go climb on different kind of rocks and try different problems. Some are harder on the skin than others, so don't be discouraged ;)
It's definitely a tricky adjustment. I'll echo the two replies you got already and advise that you get more climbs in to get yourself accustomed to the outdoor style and simultaneously condition the skin.
Great channel - genuinely.
As an aside -- if you haven't tried it yet, get into Trad climbing!
Totally different kind of headgame and will greatly improve your bouldering and sport climbing (all forms of climbing are synergistic I think).
Also, second on a video about ethics. You can have a whole video dedicated to different climbing etiquette. Some of it for gyms and how they vary, some of it for outdoor crags (trad or sport) and how they vary.
Keep up the great work + content and enjoy the climbing.
That tuxedo cat is so cute...
Don't forget the harness!
Wow
What about a harness?
I really wanna start bouldering outdoors but it seems really intimidating... Well maybe one day
Go find somewhere very easy with problems that are not too high. Bring a friend.
@@mls01981 funny to look back at this comment, i have ineed been bouldering outside a few times through 2023, had a good time but the lines are quite hard for a beginner, in my area
Noobs also don't realise just how much time it takes to setup to climb a route outdoors. Don't go expecting to send loads. You could be on the same climb for hours.
Why not: be save. have fun. try hard :-D ?
Haha my sensei is old school. We always joke that trying hard is more important than having fun :-)
And please don't play music at the crag. It's not ok. Pack out your poop. Especially busy crags. Leave the dogs at home but if you bring it keep it leased and pay close attention to it when other climbers approach. Its always the dog owners fault if a dog barks and/or acts aggressive at approaching climbers.
But maybe we should the idoor climbers just stay indoors.
Great video but too much
The lack of ethics in this video is concerning. Or even discussing the many variables that emphasize the need to go out with people who are experienced. This video makes it seem like if you can lead in the gym, you can lead outside without even mentioning anchors.
Keep making educational content. Your videos are well made but I wish there was more consideration for the actual safety concerns that arent present in a gym that would need to be taught in a gym to crag course.