Toyota R150F Manual Transmission Rebuild (Part 1)
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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This is Part 1 or a 2-Part video series showing you how to rebuild the R150F Manual Transmission that came on the following Toyota models:
*1st Gen Tacomas w/ 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE Engine (1995-2004)
*3rd Gen 4runners w/ 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE Engine (1996-2002)
*2nd Gen 4runners w/ 3.0L V6 3VZ-FE Engine(1989-1995)
*This video will also help you rebuild the R151 Manual Transmission that came on the 1986 & 1987 Pickups with the turbo engine.
We were stoked to be able to partner with Nick at Yota1 Performance to bring this awesome series to you. We think it was very generous of Nick to be willing to share this tech with the DIY Toyota Automotive Technician Community.
If you'd like to buy a pre-built R150F Transmission from Yota1 Performance, here's some links for you:
R150F Rebuilt Transmission for 5VZ 3.4L
209yota1.com/p...
R150F Rebuilt Transmission for a 3VZ 3.0L
209yota1.com/p...
If you are planning on sending Yota1 your R150F transmission for rebuilding, they offer a Transmission Shipping Crate for sale that will protect your transmission during transport.
209yota1.com/p...
Video of how to properly box your transmission into the Yota1 Crate
• Toyota Manual Transmis...
*PARTS*
R150F Transmission Bearing Kit
209yota1.com/p...
R150F Transmission Seal Kit
209yota1.com/p...
R150F Transmission Syncro Kit
209yota1.com/p...
R150F 5th Gear Oiler
209yota1.com/p...
While you have the transmission out, you're probably going to want to replace your clutch and associates parts, so here's a list of clutch kits for your rig.
1st Gen Tacoma & 3rd Gen 4runner Clutch Kit (2 choices - Aisin or OEM)
5VZ 3.4L Aisin Clutch Kit OEM 1995-2004
209yota1.com/p...
5VZ 3.4L Clutch Kit Genuine Toyota 1995-2004
209yota1.com/p...
3VZ 3.0L Aisin Clutch Kit OEM 1988-1995 (2nd Gen 4runner)
209yota1.com/p...
5VZ 3.4L Flywheel NEW 1995-2004
209yota1.com/p...
3VZ 3.0L Flywheel New 1988-1995
209yota1.com/p...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*Yota1 Performance R150F Press Sleeve Kit
209yota1.com/p...
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2pCrdPQ
*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2ZWjY6C
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set amzn.to/32WIh0M
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/2” Drive Universal Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/3cIEoUp
*Metric Allen Head Socket Set amzn.to/3Mfbag7
*Ball Pein Hammer amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Dead Blow Hammer amzn.to/2P3h5tM
*OTC 4517 Puller Set
amzn.to/3bdlB1N
*OTC 4518 Puller Set
amzn.to/2J68BOT
*3 Jaw Puller Set amzn.to/3ZqVYUP
*Locking 3 Jaw Puller amzn.to/3RwAhk0 (Expensive - similar to what Nick used)
*Press Sleeve Kit ebay.us/sLjalq
*Sunex Press Plate Kit (You could visit a local Fab Shop and have them cut some press plates to size for you) amzn.to/48loIT3
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Straight Tip Snap Ring Pliers amzn.to/3ZJsHF7
*Straight Internal Retaining Ring Pliers amzn.to/2SKZUPJ
*Small Pick Tool Set amzn.to/3asf07P
*Long Taper Punch Set amzn.to/2O7o5Wx
*Roll Pin Punch Set amzn.to/460W9Zb
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Impact Screwdriver Set amzn.to/2D7yuuy
*Heel Bar Prybar Set amzn.to/3ER10R6
*Flexible Mini Magnet - (to remove detent balls, springs and interlocks) amzn.to/32FVUSl
*Assembly Grease amzn.to/44buSCG
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.
$1700 seems like a pretty sweet deal to me. It’s not cheap, but if they do a good job and your 5sp lasts another 300k…
I agree. It is a very fair price for a rebuild. There is some shipping expense as well unless you live close enough to drop off your core and pick up the rebuild in Riverbank, California.
Agreed…I know an automatic is another monster but my son just paid $4200 for his matic to be fixed and they messed it up and had to redo it.🤦🏻♂️🙄
Kflow. That’s brutal
@@kflo1219what did they mess up? Do you know? Out of curiosity
No wonder these transmissions are so durable and long lasting. My 91 4runner has one and just crossed 225,000 miles. I plan to run it till the wheels fall off so it's really nice to see that there are people out there that can keep these guys on the road. Thanks Timmy for this post.
Thanks for the comment Dave. I plan on keeping my 4runners forever too.
This is fantastic. So much knowledge crammed into this video, I'll have to watch a few times to let it all sink in. Thanks to Nick for being willing to share, and great work to you guys for capturing all the fine details.
Thanks for the comment Sam. It really is a total gift Nick gave to the DIY Toyota Mechanic Community. Sean and I were stoked we could once again partner with Yota1 Performance to produce some great content.
I love this channel so much
We appreciate the love!
I'll be happy to let Yota1 do the work when the time comes. Just pulling the transmission off is enough for me. Thanks for the great content Tim and Yota1. Really awesome to see all the inner workings.
Thanks for the comment. We're happy to hear you appreciate the content.
I’m so excited to watch this video!
This one is good. Part 2 is even better. The detail we offer is second to none. This is it. Nobody else is going to document this job this thoroughly. I've seen the other videos out there for rebuilding the R150F transmission and they can't touch the quality we give the viewer. Nick did an excellent job explaining the parts and what he was doing.
I bought a w56B from this place a couple years ago. Awesome to see the shop
Yeah, Yota1 is a great shop.
You can use this knowledge on nearly any Toyota R series transmission. This setup looks very familiar to my R154 on my mk3 supra.
You're right. Nick was saying they are similar, so this video could definitely help you rebuild other R series transmissions.
Yes, my head is spinning! I feel a little better after what you said at the end. Wow! That is a really impressive process, way beyond my skill set. I have a manual tranny, and I can’t imagine re-building it on my own. Thank you for sharing, Timmy and Nick!
It will come full circle when you see Part 2. Trust me. With the right tools, I wholeheartedly believe a DIYer can handle this job.
@@TimmyTheToolman when is Part 2 going to be piped into the channel?
@@efil4kizum Pretty soon. Since we both have regular jobs and other things going on, sometimes video editing takes a back seat to our personal lives.
@@TimmyTheToolman absolutely no rush! haha i was just getting curious is all!
@@efil4kizum Yeah, I get it. A decent amount of time has passed since we got Part 1 out. The editing process involves both Sean and I. If one of us gets busy with regular everyday life, the process of getting videos out can slow down. We both would have liked to see Part 2 live on our channel by now. Nick at Yota1 would like to see the finished product too. It's coming pretty soon and you're definitely going to like it. The detail we were able to capture is pretty damn good. In Part 1, the parts were all black and dirty and it was harder to discern one part from another. Now with totally clean parts and some new parts, the level of detail went way up, not to mention Sean and I tag-teamed the video effort filming with 2 cameras to make sure we didn't miss any details. What I'm trying to say is it's worth the wait.
Thanks for being a fan of this series. I like it when people are just interested in learning, like you are.
Thanks for this video. I have a R150f waiting to be rebuilt
You're welcome. After Part 2, I believe you will feel confident in your ability to rebuild it.
how many miles are on that R150f ?
You did it! Saweeeet. Got motorcycle rebuilt so this summer I can finally drop my transmission and rebuild it with your all's video!!! Thanks Yota1, Tim and Sean!
You can do it! Let us knows how it goes and come back to comment! We want to hear about your experience.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman will do Sean. I've sent a few messages on insta and here asking if you guys were going to do this and stokes to see it!
Since I got my 01' Taco at 230k miles it's been making a loud waning noise from the transmission idling, 1-2, and 5th gears. If I put the clutch in it's not heard. I think it might be some of the needle bearings or maybe the input/output shaft main bearings. Replaced my clutch release and pilot bearings and still heard.
Did you guys hear a rough estimate as what mileage for to when to rebuild? I'm at 281K right now. Also interested if you've heard about the waning, I've heard it many other R150Fs (tacos and 4runners). I'll let you all know which bearings were the culprit once I get it done.
Great video. Thank you!!!!
You're very welcome. Most of the thanks goes to Nick, though. Nick was the one who was willing to spend the time to share this tech with the DIY Automotive Mechanic Community. It was obviously quite a bit of work for us to produce, but without the knowledge, these videos wouldn't have happened. We're glad you like the video. Part 2 will be coming out soon. Stay tuned!
@TimmyTheToolman yeap, I really appreciate the content of your videos. There's not much videos like this on toyotas manual transmissions... so detailed!!! Thank you Nick for providing all that knowledge to the community and Tim for bringing it to us 🙏. Looking forward for the 2nd part.
@@LChow-xq3xm Thanks! There are other videos out there for rebuilding the R150F transmission, but they offer no where close to the information Nick shares and the detail Sean and I were able to give by shooting with 2 cameras to make sure we were capturing the work very well. What we do makes filming and editing the job take way longer, but the finished product is well worth it. Nobody will surpass what we were able to do with this series, and the reason is, it's just too much damn work.
Tim just wanted to say thanks mate from Australia Im about to tear one down and this video makes it a lot more understandable lots of inside knowledge crammed in love it
You're very welcome. This was all Nick from Yota1, but we were happy to be able to film it and make it available to the Toyota DIY Automotive Mechanic Community.
Heck yes! Another awesome vid! Thanks dudes!
Thanks and you're very welcome!
Tim, awesome video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks and you're very welcome!
Awesome video thanks guys. I would love to see more collabs with Yota1 or other shops. Did you ever think your channel would progress to this level???
Also props to Nick for being able to describe how everything works and explaining it using the part names. That’s a whole different level above just knowing how to pull bad parts off and put good parts on.
You're very welcome! Partnering with Yota1 Performance has been a great experience for us. They are far and above or best partnership because we've been able to do so many collaborations with them. I also consider the owners Nick and Rebecca my friends now and not just business associates. They are great people.
Nick was very generous to work with us to bring these videos to the DIY Toyota Auto Mechanic Community. And yes, he did a great job of explaining everything. He goes into even greater detail in Part 2.
It would be nice to partner with more companies. We're always looking for the opportunity to do so.
Our channel was created totally by chance. It was me deciding to help Sean out with a valve cover gasket job that launched it. Based off the quality of the videos we have done, I actually thought our channel would be more popular with people by now. But, it is what it is. We have achieved a good level of success. The most important thing is we know our videos are helping people. That's what keeps us going.
holy moly how did I not know this video existed? This is the last piece of the puzzle for my 3rd gen build. Only thing thats left is to complete the TDI swap. Wanna do a BHW TDI Swap tutorial?
Where do you live?
@@TimmyTheToolman Detroit/Toledo
@@thediddlefiddler5569 Yeah, that won't work. I'm in California.
I believe this transmission came in the T100 also.
That I'm not sure of. I'll ask Nick and report back.
@@TimmyTheToolman R150Fs can be found on Toyota T100s with the 3VZ-E and the 5VZ-FE. I own one with an R150F on it.
There are 3 different versions of the R150F transmission.
Version 1 (1988-1995) has the short input shaft and a tailhousing for the passenger drop transfer case found in Pickups and 2nd gen 4Runners.
Version 2 (1995-1998) has the newer long input shaft, but the old tailhousing. This is the rarest version because it only ever appeared on T100s with the 5VZ.
Version 3 (1996-2004?) has the long input shaft and a tailhousing for the driver drop transfer case found on Tacomas and 3rd gen 4Runners. This is the version featured in your video.
The gears on 1986-1995 R-series transmissions cannot be fully interchanged around with late (1996+) R-series transmissions because Toyota changed the helix angle on the constant run teeth after 1995. This basically means that you can't build a T100 transmission by swapping the input shaft from a 3rd gen R150F into a 1st gen R150F. Legend says you can swap tailhousings and build the T100 configuration from a 3rd gen R150F that way, but I have not personally verified it.
@@definitelynotpewdiepie Thanks for sharing all of this. You clearly know quite a bit about the R150F transmission.
I have this transmission in my tacoma... (currently has 337k miles onit) its quite mesmerizing to see what all the stuffs inside look like 8^)
It's definitely a complicated piece of machinery. It became less complicated to me after I filmed and edited Part 2. Now, it's way less intimidating since I understand better how it works.
@@TimmyTheToolman these are noted to be bulletproof and will last indefinitely under 'normal' conditions, whatever normal means LOL
an OG taco peer in Denver has over 750k miles now on his still original R150F
750k is a literal TON of miles!
5:12 ... this is where the transfer case housing butts up and connects to the R150F... could be the seal is leaking inside there on mine
@@efil4kizum Yes, that's one of the seals that could be leaking.
regarding the bearing splitter 25:37... as far as i know a splitter of that size is pricey, couple hundred dollars... the spiltter available for rental at the McParts store is literally half that size!
I wasn't aware of what size bearing splitters were available for rental from auto parts stores. You are right that a quality bearing splitter of the size used at that time stamp is in the neighborhood of $200.
I own this kit and it would pull off that bearing: OTC 4517 Puller Set amzn.to/3bdlB1N
Having the Right Information is only one piece of the puzzle. You need the Right Tools and tools are an investment. These tools cost money up front, but they will save you a ton of money in the long run. Lots of times, the first time you use the tool to enable you to do a job yourself instead of having to pay a shop to do it for you makes the purchase worth it because of the money you saved. Shop labor rates are high. My local Toyota dealer now charges $300/hour.
@@TimmyTheToolman 300$ ouch! that is unreal... my local dealer is still at 160$ and was 140$ a few years ago. the bearing splitter I was interested in getting would be one that can pull a stuck wheel bearing off of the hub if it chooses not to press out cleanly
Awesome! Keep up the amazing work guys!
Thanks Julian! Stay tuned for Part 2.
@@TimmyTheToolman Sure will, can't wait
Awesome
Thanks!
Love your videos and went with Yota 1 for my engine but man do they lack any sort of customer service. Cant get a call back or information about my refunds... Keep up the great content!
What problem are you having with your refund? Are you talking about the refund from returning the core engine? I would call and ask to talk to Rebecca. They recently had a long time employee quit who was working in the office and they are training up a new lady. That might be the reason for the delays in getting back to you. I know Nick and Rebecca well and they are good people. They would not purposely hold onto your money. Also, sometimes people don't get a full refund on their core charge. The reason is damage to certain components of your engine raise the cost of them being able to rebuild your engine and resell it. Again, call and ask to speak directly to Rebecca and she will sort it out with you.
I should have navigated this better as, I certainly am not trying to denigrate anyone here. I will attempt to reach out again and to their credit when I do speak with someone they are always pleasant. It would appear my issues may have stemmed from a loss of employment. Appreciate you and Sean, love your activity in forums and other platforms. Wven though I no longer live in SD, I hope to make it to a meet one day, cheers!
@@seanmills6582 Thanks for your reply back. I have no doubt Nick and Rebecca will take care of you.
I emailed them about returning injector cores even though it had been over a year between me buying cores and doing the actual replacement. I got a prompt and helpful email from Yota1. Unfortunately, I noticed my cores likely weren't OEM since they lacked Aisin stamps and QC check dates, so I couldn't return them anyway.
I need everyone's help that knows about Toyota's please if you wouldn't mind. This is a long story so please bare with me. I drive a 2003 Toyota Camry Xle 3.0v6. I had new brake pads on all around and had perfect brakes could stop on a dime with barely stepping on the pedal. BUT i realized that i had more of a metal pad put on instead of ceramic so me being OCD and having bad anxiety decided to buy another set and have them put on just so the metal ones wouldn't eat up my rotors so fast BIG MISTAKE! My normal mechanic called and said your car is ready to pick up. So before getting 3 miles down the road i started smelling something burning so i stop and checked and my back wheels both sides were almost smoking. So i had to wait until the next day to get ahold of my mechanic and he says both my calipers must be stuck or sticking lol. Keep in mind i had perfect brakes with no issues until having those 2nd set of pads put on. So i had no choice but to have calipers put on the back which i had to borrow the money to pay for. So he once again calls to say you car is ready. So driving back home i came to a red light and my car stopped me fine BUT my pedal started sinking almost to the floor. So i called my so called mechanic and we went at it and he said bring it back out here and i did. Two weeks later he calls me saying ive put different rotors on and tried 2 different master cylinders and nothing helps with the sinking of the pedal. So does anyone have any ideal? Did he not bleed them right does my car require ABS Bleed what could it be? He said he checked everything no bad lines no leaks so please help anyone?
The mechanic didn't bleed the system properly. While replacing the calipers, if he didn't cap off the brake line and let it drip for a long time, he could have emptied the master cylinder introducing air into it. If that happened, he would be forced to bleed the master cylinder. Air could have also been introduced into the ABS pump.
@@TimmyTheToolman I really do appreciate your help and I so wish we had good mechanics like you around here in Kentucky. We might have some but I haven't found them. So what would you suggest I do I have a friend that can help me bleed the brakes but if there's air in the abs system I'm assuming that takes some type of computer. So if I took it to maybe a Toyota certified mechanic that I really can't afford should I just tell them what you said? I'm sorry for being ignorant when it comes to this kind of thing. But you're help takes away some of my worry and puts me on the right track.
@@dannycolemire2652 I'm not sure if your vehicle requires the Toyota Tech Stream program to bleed the ABS system. I know you can force air out of the ABS module by getting the ABS system to fire. You can do this on a gravel road and do some hard stops to get the wheel to skid so the ABS kicks in. This will push the air out of the ABS module and into the brake lines so you can bleed the air out.
Your first move would be to find out if the mechanic actually bled the master cylinder. There's a process for it. If he doesn't know what you're talking about, he didn't do it. Your original master cylinder was probably fine. It's just that the guy introduced air and caused the issue.
At this point you have nothing to lose by trying to bleed the brakes yourself and see where it gets you. Start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front and finally left front. Move a ton of fluid through the system. It's going to get boring for the person pumping the brake pedal for you, but that's my best advice for now.
@@TimmyTheToolman Much Appreciate and respect.
@@dannycolemire2652 No problem Danny. We're here to help.
Does anyone know if a severe clutch fork vibration could cause air bubbles through the slave cylinder seals?.... It's shaking the pushrod.... You have to bleed the clutch every single day then it returns to normal... Everything is OEM.... No leaks...
I don't really think you're going to find your answer here. A Toyota forum or Facebook group would be a better bet for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman .... I put some springs on a clutch fork and it doesn't shake anymore however I can't hold hydraulic pressure especially when it gets hot outside.... For 1 thing the pressure plate is no good And so I'm not gonna worry about anymore Everything on there is a oem there's nothing more I can do but do a clutch job
@@gasisthepastendoil That's unfortunate. We have a video series for replacing the clutch if you didn't know already.
Thanks for the video and for putting me on to Yota1! I have one of their R150 (2WD) in the box waiting for me to put a couple consecutive days together to swap it in. I was hoping Nick would have said something about why some R150s like to pop out of 1st.
You're welcome. Good luck with the install.
I know this is off topic so I apologize. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry Xle 3.0v6 with 130,000 miles. I don't know the history but I really want to change the transmission fluid or should I? Do I just do a drain and fill or flush? And should I change the filter? I don't have a owner manual and I can't find out much using this internet thing. Could you please give me some much appreciated advice? Thanks
Just do a drain and refill of the pan. That's safer than doing a full flush on an unknown maintenance history vehicle. After another 5k miles or maybe at your next engine oil change, do another drain and refill of the pan. Then follow that up with another drain and refill at the same interval. By the 3rd round, your fluid should be in pretty good shape. Then, do a drain and refill every 10k miles after that. Drain and refills are a dilution process, but they work really well to get the fluid in good shape.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm sorry just to be sure are you saying don't drop the pan? And don't replace the filter? Just remove the drain plug and refill? Thank you so much for getting back to me it means alot and takes alot of stress off my mind.
@dannycolemire2652 Those filters are a fine metal stranier, and they don't clog that easy, but this is what I'd do. I'd base my decision on what the fluid looks like. If it looks really bad, dark brown to black in color, I'd drop the pan and replace the filter because really dirty fluid would create more deposits in the filter. If the fluid color is pink to a dark red, I wouldn't bother dropping the pan. The filter shouldn't be clogged at all.
@@TimmyTheToolman Tim I'm so sorry to bother you but its really hard to find information on my 03 Camry Xle 3.0v6. So I'm going to take your advice on the drain and fill like you said. Just one last question after I drain the fluid and I'm refilling it how should I go about it? Should I put a couple quarts in it and let the car warm up before checking the correct level on the dipstick or can I check it cold?
Add back in the same amount you drained out. Confirming the fluid level can be done when cold or hot. I like to dial in the level when at operating temp. Drive the car for around 5 miles out and then 5 miles back and get it on level ground and check the fluid level. The vehicle needs to be driven for the fluid to warm up. It can't heat up by just sitting there idling like the engine can. After you drive, you'll want to see the level on the dipstick between the hot hash marks.
What about swapping out the 5th gear OD to a taller ratio while you're in there...???
Also, there was turbo 4runners as well....
@@BigBluePile Yes, this video will work for the R151 trans that came in the 86 & 87 pickups with the turbo engine.
This video is just a stock rebuild. Swapping out the 5th gear while you're rebuilding it can be done, I guess.
@@TimmyTheToolman neat. I've been wanting to rebuild my r-series since I pulled from out behind a buddy's shed 10 years ago. I'm excited 😊