Once again another fantastic tip, I learned so many tips from you over the years, I have experienced water intrusion like this so I hung my bike upside down with the seat tube removed, Aluminum Bike w/aluminum seatpost ,I used anti seize on post,your silicone tip is awesome, I'm going to use for sure in the future,.love your shop setup, clean and organized.
Some bikes don't seem to have a bottom bracket drain or they don't seem to work well so your idea seems useful, hanging upside down after removing the seat post... Did you then regrease the bottom bracket? Or?
I never thought that the seat post was making me crazy 😊. I thought it was a cable that was ticking on the frame. I was happy to stumble into your video, although the title is referring to a complete other issue. Thanks for sharing!
Another fantastic vid. My gravel bike has seen lots of creek crossings up here in SE QLD over the past few months so I need to service the bottom bracket so will do this at the same time 👍🙏
16:44 I definitely like the idea of some silicone on the seatpost but I’m sceptical about the cable entrance in the head tube. Those cables move around all the time while steering. Wouldn’t that just give the silicone there loads of cracks and still let (less) water in?
To drain, clear bottom drain hole if you have one? Do they all have one? Or remove seat post and hang bike upside down? Pretty much you need to service bottom bracket then? If you hear water in bike? I got carried away washing it, as you showed. If you have external cables could you wrap seat post with tape at joint to seal it for a wash and avoid this? And yes one could caulk it generally but I'm talking about before a wash. I got a lot of water in there...I can hear it...
I bought some in US and have done the same.. I noticed it seems hard to find a wax in between lube for top up though. I generally ride 10 /20 miles .do you have suggestions to lube in between the 2 to 300 mile intervals of hot waxing?
Is there a special grip paste for steel and aluminum as well? This topic is especially interesting and difficult for folding bikes where you move your seatpost every time you are folding it. - Thanks for another great tutorial :-)
Steel and aluminium generally don't require grip paste. Grease is fine. Copper based greases help prevent electrolysis which is even better for metal joints.
I expect probably not an issue when using silicon sealant like this due to its higher viscosity, though don't quote me on that. Once in discussion with Raoul Luescher he warned me that if there's one thing to keep away from carbon, it's silicon. The reason he said was that over time silicon particles can work their way in to the carbon and cause delamination, then obviously component failure occurs. I know that pro team mechanics use silicone spray, though they don't plan to keep their frames. So I'd still suggest you give a warning about the use of silicon near carbon and better to use something else for saddle squeaks for carbon saddles and seat posts. I've worked in the cycling industry over 25y, so I'm not just some punter speculating here. Personally I'd never let silicon spray anywhere near carbon. Perhaps there are also other non-silicone sealants that could be used for this just to be safe..? I've just come across your channel and can appreciate the effort you're putting in to educating, so just trying to do the same.. 😉👍
@@stevenleffanue It was during a lengthy discussion and silicone was there only thing he raised as a clear issue. I think really at the microscopic level where tiny particles will migrate along the carbon fibres causing them to lose bind with the matrix (resin). Just thinking, I might ask Raoul what sealant he would recommend for such usage. Externally not an issue as it's shielded by the paint, though internally is where in contact with raw carbon it's where we need to be careful. Doing a search there does appear to be many non-silicone options, though need to make sure we're not swapping one evil for another.. Likely Loctite or DuPont etc will make something specific for purpose.
two words.... *Marine Grease* unless you want to sillicone up your nice canyon frame. marine grease does the exact same thing, wipes off with a rag. you wont have to scratch it off or use alchohol or terps on your frame.
Thank you OZ cycling for the wunderfull videos you've uploaded, big thanks. But as I was viewing this video something jumped into my mind. In Holland we have an acid free Silicone ( to use in combination with an acrylic bathtub for instance ) I think that sort of silicone would be better in combination with the carbon frame.
All Sava carbon road bikes have a rubber cap around the seat post so it covers the tightening bolt area, this makes it impossible for any water to go in, I don’t understand why the more expensive bike brands don’t have this!!. I also added this rubber gasket like the Sava on my newer Colnago Concept build. The rubber boot goes around the seat post and covers the tightening bolt bracket.
@@stevenleffanue It’s a tight fight not loose, but you can also add some marine grease around the seat post before sliding the boot in. I use marine grease on areas that water gets in contact with on all my bikes. Good tip here on the sealant and a rubber boot that covers around the post and around the bolt bracket should be standard.
Is it air tight tho? If you ride in hot an humid conditions and later store the bike in something like your cool garage or basement, condensation may form inside the frame when it cool down
It's mostly to stop larger amounts of water like from rain and bike washes. If you live in tropics , remove seat post maybe once a year to check and air out.
Sorry, that's incorrect. A fastener must be lubricated as best possible in order to get a correct torque reading. 25yr+ bike industry here and colleague is ex. mechanical engineer, so not speculating.. 😉👍
@@drayzen9678 no construction industry lubes fasteners. In the automotive industry every thread is dry except headstuds and the manuals state lube/dry torque ratings but professionals torque to degrees not resistance. The bike industry is the only one that greases threads when they should be antisiezing, the reason is we're obsessed with aluminium threads which is frowned on in any load/stressed component, bikes also have the backside of every thread exposed to the elements. Try teasing up the wheel nuts on your car and torquing them down to 90-110nm, you'll snap every stud before you reach the click. The bolts stretch which holds them tight, greasing them provides less torque to stretch and your torque wrench will read incorrectly based on how slippery the grease was.
@@janeblogs324 Strange, because when I asked my colleague, who was also a mechanic at Mercedes for many years he agreed that the threads should be greased. Tightening to an angle seems frought with error risk unless manufacturing tolerances are absolutely perfect. Logically I would expect to see more consistent torque readings from lubricated threads than dry ones.. I guess we need better documentation such as you refer to with having lubricated and dry ratings.
I commute each day so riding in the rain is a given, so will give the silicone a go. BTW are they Bontrager booties in the intro? I've got a couple of pairs and reckon they are the best I've used. Cheers mate.
Now how can you say you got caught out in the wet when you're wearing fancy shoe covers? And I grin and say thanks for this video on dealing with water inside a frame.
@@stevenleffanue Yes. Of course it should be silicone. But different sealants formulas using specific cure agents and additives. Some formulas can literally dissolve metals. For example stupid bath corner sealants are not recommended to use on any metals. I'm using Yachticon Marine Silikon sealant for carbon frames for long time. But I'm not sure will it be compatible with new steel frame. This is the reason why I asking about brand/title.
Almost 40 years experience and still learning. Great tip on the silicone, never had seen that before! Thanks
You are a Treasure for the bicycle community, Sir. Thank you Very Much for a Wealth of knowledge I have gotten from you.
yes
He’s a local legend mate, the autistic dog killer
Once again another fantastic tip, I learned so many tips from you over the years, I have experienced water intrusion like this so I hung my bike upside down with the seat tube removed, Aluminum Bike w/aluminum seatpost ,I used anti seize on post,your silicone tip is awesome, I'm going to use for sure in the future,.love your shop setup, clean and organized.
Some bikes don't seem to have a bottom bracket drain or they don't seem to work well so your idea seems useful, hanging upside down after removing the seat post...
Did you then regrease the bottom bracket? Or?
I never thought that the seat post was making me crazy 😊. I thought it was a cable that was ticking on the frame. I was happy to stumble into your video, although the title is referring to a complete other issue. Thanks for sharing!
I personally enjoy riding in the rain. Rain is always a blessing in tropical countries 🥰
Great tips- and you make it really simple to follow. You certainly know your stuff.
Off to the shed to do that now !
it is always satifying to watch your videos/tutorials, thank you for always bringing a very insightful video, hope you always on a great condition 👍
Another excellent idea I never thought of that and I live in Northern Ireland and it rains a fair bit here 🤣🤣
Another fantastic vid. My gravel bike has seen lots of creek crossings up here in SE QLD over the past few months so I need to service the bottom bracket so will do this at the same time 👍🙏
Great hack. I will definitely do this. Thanks for sharing.
0:57 after heavy rain that sound would be water in your shoes 😂
Usefull and simple as always. Really Love your Channel.
Great tip. Thank you.
Great and informative video🎉
16:44 I definitely like the idea of some silicone on the seatpost but I’m sceptical about the cable entrance in the head tube. Those cables move around all the time while steering. Wouldn’t that just give the silicone there loads of cracks and still let (less) water in?
Silicone is flexible but yes, if cables move too much the Silicone want seal
I have noticed using carbon paste vs grease causes my seat to make a lot of creaking in a few weeks.
To drain, clear bottom drain hole if you have one? Do they all have one? Or remove seat post and hang bike upside down? Pretty much you need to service bottom bracket then? If you hear water in bike? I got carried away washing it, as you showed.
If you have external cables could you wrap seat post with tape at joint to seal it for a wash and avoid this? And yes one could caulk it generally but I'm talking about before a wash.
I got a lot of water in there...I can hear it...
Very useful info, just like your chain waxing videos. I am a devoted chain waxer now!!
I bought some in US and have done the same.. I noticed it seems hard to find a wax in between lube for top up though. I generally ride 10 /20 miles .do you have suggestions to lube in between the 2 to 300 mile intervals of hot waxing?
1 wax lasts up to 300km. If you need quick lube in-between, you can make the portable, bottled wax lube
@@stevenleffanue thank you. I will watch that video again and try and make sense of the lube bottle
Is there a special grip paste for steel and aluminum as well? This topic is especially interesting and difficult for folding bikes where you move your seatpost every time you are folding it. - Thanks for another great tutorial :-)
Steel and aluminium generally don't require grip paste. Grease is fine. Copper based greases help prevent electrolysis which is even better for metal joints.
The Master Machanic strikes again 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
You really make all your repairs look so easy.
I expect probably not an issue when using silicon sealant like this due to its higher viscosity, though don't quote me on that.
Once in discussion with Raoul Luescher he warned me that if there's one thing to keep away from carbon, it's silicon.
The reason he said was that over time silicon particles can work their way in to the carbon and cause delamination, then obviously component failure occurs.
I know that pro team mechanics use silicone spray, though they don't plan to keep their frames.
So I'd still suggest you give a warning about the use of silicon near carbon and better to use something else for saddle squeaks for carbon saddles and seat posts.
I've worked in the cycling industry over 25y, so I'm not just some punter speculating here.
Personally I'd never let silicon spray anywhere near carbon.
Perhaps there are also other non-silicone sealants that could be used for this just to be safe..?
I've just come across your channel and can appreciate the effort you're putting in to educating, so just trying to do the same.. 😉👍
Appreciate your experienced input , thanx. Yes silicone 'creeps' itself very thin. Water does similar. I'd imagine oil based lubes would also?
@@stevenleffanue It was during a lengthy discussion and silicone was there only thing he raised as a clear issue. I think really at the microscopic level where tiny particles will migrate along the carbon fibres causing them to lose bind with the matrix (resin).
Just thinking, I might ask Raoul what sealant he would recommend for such usage.
Externally not an issue as it's shielded by the paint, though internally is where in contact with raw carbon it's where we need to be careful.
Doing a search there does appear to be many non-silicone options, though need to make sure we're not swapping one evil for another..
Likely Loctite or DuPont etc will make something specific for purpose.
two words.... *Marine Grease* unless you want to sillicone up your nice canyon frame. marine grease does the exact same thing, wipes off with a rag. you wont have to scratch it off or use alchohol or terps on your frame.
Yes that will work except 1/ whatever it touches will get the grease on it.
2/ grease will attract dirt
Grease can degrade the resin in carbon though
@@janeblogs324 marine grease is used on fiber composite boats, hence resin safe.
@@stevenleffanue wipe the grease flush so no excess should get onto anything. and if it attracts dirt it wouldnt matter as its not a moving part.
Thank you OZ cycling for the wunderfull videos you've uploaded, big thanks. But as I was viewing this video something jumped into my mind. In Holland we have an acid free Silicone ( to use in combination with an acrylic bathtub for instance ) I think that sort of silicone would be better in combination with the carbon frame.
You're probably right Fred. Thanx for that 👍
I would like to know, if there is any need to block the hole below to prevent it being filled while cleaning. Thank you for your effort!
No. Gravity pulls the water down and out the hole.
How to stop water from getting in?
Just don’t cycle in the damn rain.
Thank you
No thought of that, Brilliant!
All Sava carbon road bikes have a rubber cap around the seat post so it covers the tightening bolt area, this makes it impossible for any water to go in, I don’t understand why the more expensive bike brands don’t have this!!. I also added this rubber gasket like the Sava on my newer Colnago Concept build. The rubber boot goes around the seat post and covers the tightening bolt bracket.
Most seatpost booties do not waterproof that entry point.
@@stevenleffanue It’s a tight fight not loose, but you can also add some marine grease around the seat post before sliding the boot in. I use marine grease on areas that water gets in contact with on all my bikes. Good tip here on the sealant and a rubber boot that covers around the post and around the bolt bracket should be standard.
NICE!! Thank you :)
Is it air tight tho? If you ride in hot an humid conditions and later store the bike in something like your cool garage or basement, condensation may form inside the frame when it cool down
It's mostly to stop larger amounts of water like from rain and bike washes. If you live in tropics , remove seat post maybe once a year to check and air out.
@@stevenleffanue or undo the bottle cage bolts on the seat tube
i used a wide black tape, goes a few round, done. happy ever after.
Coffe is sacred for very rider in the world !
14:13 ha ha! Thanks for that
My new trek doesn't have a hole between the seat post and BB, so the seat post fills up with water
8:40 if you grease that thread you can no longer use a torque wrench. You will be tightening it 3x more than you should
or is it the other way around?
Sorry, that's incorrect.
A fastener must be lubricated as best possible in order to get a correct torque reading.
25yr+ bike industry here and colleague is ex. mechanical engineer, so not speculating.. 😉👍
@@drayzen9678 no construction industry lubes fasteners. In the automotive industry every thread is dry except headstuds and the manuals state lube/dry torque ratings but professionals torque to degrees not resistance.
The bike industry is the only one that greases threads when they should be antisiezing, the reason is we're obsessed with aluminium threads which is frowned on in any load/stressed component, bikes also have the backside of every thread exposed to the elements. Try teasing up the wheel nuts on your car and torquing them down to 90-110nm, you'll snap every stud before you reach the click. The bolts stretch which holds them tight, greasing them provides less torque to stretch and your torque wrench will read incorrectly based on how slippery the grease was.
@@janeblogs324 Strange, because when I asked my colleague, who was also a mechanic at Mercedes for many years he agreed that the threads should be greased.
Tightening to an angle seems frought with error risk unless manufacturing tolerances are absolutely perfect.
Logically I would expect to see more consistent torque readings from lubricated threads than dry ones..
I guess we need better documentation such as you refer to with having lubricated and dry ratings.
Torque specs of nuts and bolts on bicycles are given for a fastener mounted with anti-seize paste, which could be considered lubricated.
I commute each day so riding in the rain is a given, so will give the silicone a go. BTW are they Bontrager booties in the intro? I've got a couple of pairs and reckon they are the best I've used. Cheers mate.
BBB overshoes
Nice and smart
That silicone should be allowed by manufacturer, otherwise..
Can i apply the silicone sealant on bottom bracket to stop water getting into the bearing?
Not to moving joints
If I lived in aussie you'd be my mechanic without question
Haha. No probs Leslie. Come for visit at the Tour Down Under in January 2023.
Now how can you say you got caught out in the wet when you're wearing fancy shoe covers? And I grin and say thanks for this video on dealing with water inside a frame.
That day we were prepared but been caught out many , many times.
@@stevenleffanue So have I, arg, and I was simply smiling at the irony of your opening comment as you sported those sporty shoe covers. :)
What about greasing it?
Grease attracts dirt and comes off when touched
What sealant are you using? Safe for paint and metal&
Silicone
@@stevenleffanue Yes. Of course it should be silicone. But different sealants formulas using specific cure agents and additives. Some formulas can literally dissolve metals. For example stupid bath corner sealants are not recommended to use on any metals. I'm using Yachticon Marine Silikon sealant for carbon frames for long time. But I'm not sure will it be compatible with new steel frame. This is the reason why I asking about brand/title.
Is that jack's coffee shop?
Now that's a proper reaming! @hambini
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