How to rebuild a Puch E50 Moped Engine PT 2 (Assembly crank bearings and Mounting)
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2021
- In this video I put the clean engine back together and mount it on the moped.
Let me know if you have any questions!
#PuchRebuild #PuchE50 #Mopeds
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I forgot to show myself tightening the clutch nut. I tightened it when I originally installed the clutch cover when I forgot the starter plate. Thank you all for watching!
Yes, I was just rewatching it, for the at least the tenth time. I'm in the middle of my rebuild and finishing up tomorrow. I didn't notice that nut wasn't torqued till this time though. Yesterday and today I loosened and tightened that nut a bunch of times when I was trying to get the clutch shimmed!! That's why I noticed it.
The shimming was tricky at first, but I think that the next time I need to shim my clutch I'll have a much easier time of it.
You are a legend thank you for your videos
Thank you! I am glad you like them.
Great work . Nice to see Puch all over the World .
Thanks! Where are you located?
@@Corn-ped I am from Austria .
That's some high quality work!!
Excellent tutorial nice to see people make mistakes and show them.👍🏴
Thanks! Yeah I forget stuff all the time.
Just bought a Puch Maxi Sport, this is a great video! I have a feeling I may be doing this sooner rather than later, weird noises inside the engine... so, thanks!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes
Good video!
love your videos my brother so detailed and well edited
Thank you for watching them?
This video is so useful. Really all your videos are. The instructions on cases and other parts is almost non-existent for most parts.
Mixing your info here (and on a view other videos) with the peugeot 103 clymer manual got my engine completely rebuilt and running with a cdi.
getting the remaining hardware to properly mount my kit to my frame this weekend and should be able to ride it around then!
That's awesome to hear! Let me know how it goes this weekemd
Heard about this vid on Moped Army. I'm going to rebuild my e50 bottom end by installing a super stuffy crank from Treats this winter following Corn Ped's instructions. Thanks for this very helpful step by step video!!!
Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions!
Great job 👏
Thank you!
Great video! I like the detail and the lack any extra bs noise jibber jabber
Thank you!
Not critical, but was hoping you'd mention about the direction of piston and circlip position. If that's important.
Oh man I totally forgot to add that. I recorded it I just forgot it when I was editing. If the Piston has an arrow that points towards the exhaust and if there's holes in one of the side those Point towards the intake. The circlips should always be open facing the crank. So that way when when the piston gets blown back down the circlip would have Force opening it making it stay in the piston.
Great video, love your work. When you do the timing you advance 1.8mm but in your other vid you recommend 16-18mm advance which I have also read. Currently rebuilding a Puch Maxi E50 newer type casing and crank shaft. Thanks!
I realise now what you are doing with timing - you are using a piston stop gauge whereas on your other video you are using the 360 degrees circumference and a tape measure. 👏🏻
yeah! two different methods. Puch and tomos are like the only moped that people time with a degree wheel instead of piston gauge. I use this chart. Also I typically set my timing pretty low for engine break in. like 18 degrees. but once its broken in I will bump it up to 20-22 and see how hot it gets. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Ignition_Timing_Chart_for_Puch
@@Corn-ped great. Thanks for confirming. I am half way through the engine build so this video is super helpful. Am I right in thinking that there is a snap ring on either side of the clutch bearing? Between the seal and the bearing? Also, which direction is the oil seal on the mag side - inward facing? Again, loving your work!
Having trouble with the stock clutch locking up after a long hard ride.. when I stop it kills the engine...wait til it cools down or push start it, it runs fine... any ideas?
Great videos, keep up the great work! Where did you get that timing tool? Thanks!! \m/
I got it from treatland but they don't sell them anymore. It's really simple and easy but they make even nicer ones if you're willing to spend like 30 40 bucks
Doing a follow along and I’m at the part where you said “lock washers” on the header part.
I’m missing a washer and can’t figure out what replacement to get. The internet is telling me M6 galvanized. But you said lock. Does it matter much. What should get ?
Doesn't matter much just check to make sure it's tight after a couple. Heat cycles.
Honest question here, I have a 1980 e50. It hasn’t been taken apart in god knows how long and I’m wondering if anything will break or not fit back in after I take it apart and if so what parts other then seals and gaskets would I have to replace?
Gaaket for the cylinder base, head gasket, intake gasket, and exhaust gastet, crank and main gear seals and bearings. Treatland.tv has everything you need to rebuild an e50
Nice video, I am currently rebuilding my E50 now. Can I use two cycle instead of assembly lube and also what tool do you have that presses bearings on? I have tools but they aren't what you got. Let me know what's similar thanks- W
I am using a tusk bearing/crank puller. but you can really do any method. Freezing the crank and heating the bearings work great and most people have a freezer and oven.
One question about Seals should they both face the same direction? and what direction is that?I'm thinking One faces the Clutch lining? "inner part towards lining to keep Atf from the combustion side"?the other side seal" flywheel side"inner side of seal faces the piston connecting Rod is that Correct or am i thinking about this wrong?mine has been apart for over a year and i forget the orientation!Jim. Ok I did see where you covered the orientation had to watch it a couple of times sorry Thanks.Jim
yeah. They both face the same way. They face the bearings. So the stator side faces inward toward the crank, and the clutch side faces outward away from the crank. But if you look at them installed, they are both in the same orientation. If that makes sense. Here is a little image of it tinyurl.com/27z8su3s Also make sure to leave a small gap on the ignition side between the seal and the bearing so that bearing can get lubricant.
Great work, why do you wait 12 hours until final snug up?
I like to let the liquid gasket harden up before I really crank it down!
Hello, thanks for this video, I'm watching it to prepare for a crankshaft installation thiscoming week. It's a good thing I did, since I didn't know about the engine stand, bearing puller tool and the TUSK crank puller/installer tool.
I have a few questions:
1) Could we just use a more conventional two-jaw or three jaw puller tool, instead of the dedicated tool?
2) A piston/cylinder kit I'm considering might work with a 1.5mm base spacer between the cylinder and block, there are many different thicknesses offered (0.5, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 2.0), I assume that this is to adjust the ports away from or towards the crank. How do I know what is optimum size?
3) A crank I'm considering also might work with a 1.5mm base spacer between the cylinder and block, same question as #2, what is the best way to find the optimum sized spacer? Do I adjust by the 0.10 mm?
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
What do you want to use the 2/3 jaw puller for? I typically only use a 3 jaw on things I don’t care about. Like removing an old bearing, they area always bending things. You do not need the tusk tool for the bearings. Freezing the crank and heating the bearings works great.
Most people are just adding spacer to the bottom of the cylinder to get clearance for the head. If you wanted to really get into it, you could measure your port timing and figure out what spacer you want. But most people are just doing it for head clearance.
@@Corn-ped Thanks, that was informative.
I guess, I'm obligated to use the TUSK tool route, since I don't have a refrigerator or an oven. Even if you count the bar fridge that I DO have, it's got no freezer. I suppose I could find a way to make that work, I do have a heat gun for the bearing and I guess I could fit the crank in my mini fridge and get it down to around 34° after 12 hours or so.
What's the name of the intake you got on there can you send a link
I made that intake out of an old puch exhaust header and a shim that fit the carb.
You mentioned the little channel for lubricant was that just transmission fluid or for something else?
That channel allows premix gas to go thru the case and lubricate the crank bearing. On most two stroke engines the crank is lubed by the gas. On the e50 the transmission side bearing is piled by the tranny oil but the stator side is by the gas. If there is no gap on that seal the bearing will over hear and be toast real quick.
Cornped 1 Liter 15 w 40 or atf wich?
hey man, i have a hard time with choosing the right bearings. On the internet they say the new and the old e50's have alot of difference but de demensions are the same of the bearings. I have a e50 new type 3 bearings. but the bearing with the snap ring is really hard to find.
I get my bearings from doscycles. They are the best. They have kits and individual bearings. If you are looking for something special give em an email.
www.doscycles.com/collections/bearings-and-seals/products/puch-e50-full-bearing-and-seal-kit
@@Corn-ped thank you man!
@CornPed I bought a puch that someone redid the top end, but didn't replace the bearings. Can you just replace bearings?
Sorry and that carbis pretty sweet where'd you get 😅
I got that carb from www.treatland.tv
Didn't show checking end play on the clutch side. I never knew it until like 10 years ago lol
Yeah I wanted to do a whole video on setting end play. But this one was perfect. So I m going to do it on one I have to actually shim.
Okay I got the bearing on but when I started pushing it with the TUSK tool, I just used the old bearing as a spacer (you had one you made by welding some scraps together), how do I know how far to push? You didn't mention anything regarding this at 1:58 I think I could have pushed it over the seal if I tried? That would be too far of course.
How do we know how far to push the first bearing on the clutch side of the crankshaft?
Thanks for the content.
There should be a lip on the crank shaft. Which crank did you get?
@@Corn-ped Yes, I didn't realize there were two sizes of seal, 17mm & 22mm. I got the 44mm stroker, stuffed crank from Treatland. So, hopefully it's going to be in this afternoon, gadzooks!
Also the TUSK portable press is great. I used it on top of my saw horse, no vice necessary. I wish it had a hex surface on the bell portion, but I just broke out a 14" pipe wrench which worked beautifully in combination with a 15" adjustable end wrench, without any stress on the crank journals.
Got mixed up now I have to re-do it again. Should not have gone to the Moped Army instructions - they say to put the circlip onto the billet before the clutch side bearing and press the bearing against the circlip, just pound away - then after that they tell you "wait a minute the new crankshafts don't have the inner circlip!" So I had already taken it off again thinking that I needed the circlip first before the bearing!
I think the Moped Army instructions need to be re-done. Gadzooks.
yeah the aftermarket cranks are different. You have to kind of modify any moped instructions you find online.
Now I know what I was doing. The reason the bearing did not seat is that I made a mistake. There are two sizes of seals, two of one size and one of the other, 2x17mm and 1x22mm. So I was trying to put the 17mm where the 22mm should have gone and when I tried to put the bearing over that seal it resulted in problems. With the 22mm on the clutch side of the crankshaft (with the bearing that has the clip on it). That is where the shims will go, when the clutch is installed - it will need new shimming. Also I got the shims done.
No video on shimming an E50 clutch? I just found out that the top of a can of tuna is 0.22mm in case you need a source for a 0.22mm shim!
hey just a quick question how do you know what size of bearings and seals for crank and the big gear inside engine? and which ones do you have in the video? thank you a lot
Is the crack stock? All e50 engines use the same size. Unless you have a specific after market crank, summer of them use a different sizd clutch side seal.
@@Corn-ped yes stock the another issue is i have no fricking idea what my engine is if its e50 or something else it is puch and idk if its 2kw or less how do i find out? it doesnt say anywhere i just know my engine model thats all but with that serial engine model number i couldnt find on the internet nothing about it
@@spctweaks There is an E50 (single speed) looks like this (tinyurl.com/2a7a56dn) and if you are rebuilding it with a the stock crank you need these set of bearings and seals (tinyurl.com/22nzvqlh). This is a ZA50 (2 speed) looks like this (tinyurl.com/283oc28h) this requires a different set of bearings and seals and is much more complicated to rebuild. I am planning a rebuild video but have not made one yet.
@@Corn-ped thank you brother I found out I have puch e50 but the link you sent to bearings and seals is wrong it doesn't work could you please send it again and correct link? Thank you
www.treatland.tv/puch-E50-one-speed-complete-4-bearings-3-seals-p/e50-4-bearing-3-seal-party.htm @@spctweaks
You said you were leaving the starter plate off until you were done so you could tighten the clutch nut some more then put the cover on without installing the plate which you corrected but still didn't tighten the nut
I tightened it when I put the clutch plate on without the starter plate. So dumb.
Do you rebuild other people's moped engines?
I have in the past.
I am planning to put an airsal 72cc on my puch e50 machine, but the cylinder head does not have a hole for the decompressor, how do I start the engine without it down, can the engine be started without a decompressor on the cylinder
Yes, you do not need the decomp. Just pedal it.
@@Corn-ped So you only need the decompressor lever that is right on the machine near the lamella and you need to pedal and it will start without any problems?
Is your e50 an auto start or a clutch lever start?
@@Corn-ped using the clutch
yeah. then you do not need the decomp.
What cylinder is it, man? What model and is it a 50 or 70?
Hey its an airsal 70
How long did this job take??
First time I would say 2 hours. My record is 53 minutes.
How much is a used e50 worth
ehhhh. Not rebuilt not running - $100? Non rebuilt running - $150? Rebuilt and running - $300?
Please rebuild a ZA50 motor
yea! I got one I need to rebuild. . .
@@Corn-ped can't wait. Thanks
@@Corn-ped I would like to see a ZA50 transmission rebuild video. I have a motor with shredded pucks.
@@beng6319 Yeah I want to do a ZA rebuild video and I have one that needs it. Just need to finish some other projects!
हीरो पुच ऐजी बिगर गियर बाला हैं उनके किक गरारी ईसप्रीग पेकीग गासकेट मेल फि मेल गरारी चाहिए था क्या आप हमारे से मोवाल न0 पर बात करेगा अपना भाई बिजलीमिस्ररी
Bu motoru türkiye'ye kargoyla yollarmisin ❤
I could. It would cost a lot of money to ship.
हीरो पुच ऐजी बिगर गियर बाला गारी के किक गरारी ईसप्रीग पेकीग गासकेट मेल फि मेल गरारी चाहिए था क्या आप हमारे से मोवाल न0 पर बात करेगा अपना