DLE-20 RC Plane Gas Engine, Learning Series, No. 4: Test Run, Oil and Gas mixture, factory settings
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- In this video I show how to prepare the fuel for the DLE-20 rc gas engine using 91 % octane gasoline and two cycle oil (Briggs and Stratton ashless 2-cycle oil) . I also show how to set the low and high speed needles of the DLE-20 back to the factory settings, and I show how to start the DLE-20 and make some initial adjustments to the engine for the initial running. As the engine breaks in, further adjustments and fine tuning of the carburetor will be made in the future.
All of these videos will be placed on a playlist.
I am not giving up glow engines, I'm just adding RC gas powered engines to my lineup.
So if you have been interested in running gas rc plane engines, maybe you can learn with me and this series may be helpful. If you are experienced running rc gas engines, then maybe this series will be a little interesting or entertaining, and maybe you can give us novices some pointers!
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes (RC Planes) for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel for fun. I am not an expert, there are many different techniques to building radio control planes. A good way to learn about flying and building rc planes is to see what others are doing, that's what I do and that's why I like to share what I do. Thanks for watching my channel. Have fun!
Pleaee don't ever stop making videos because their so helpful, thank you.
Thank you!
Nice video. Add a spinner for better looks and better starter control.
I've got 4 gas engines so far I've had good results with them! I've got 2 -6 CC and 1-9 CC SH GF engines and a ZDZ rv120 which is 20Cc and they run great and you never have to adjust the carburetor after you get it set correctly! Only thing is you have to be careful with reciever placement so you don't get any problems with interference from the ignition system! The SH GF series engines use a turbo glow plug so you don't have to worry about interference with them! You can also use a OS g5 glow plug in your dle 20 and then you don't need the ignition system! I've got one I'm going to try in my ZDZ so I'll let you know how good it works!
Ya, The interference issue is one that I worry about. Ill have to be careful when the time comes to mount it. And Ill have to check into the glow plug idea. If that works then by all means do away with the electronic ignition.. Ill have to check that.
Sounds just like my leaf blower ! Fantastic video great editing and content CZcams should give you more money. Hope you get rich!
Lol, thanks!
turn the rubber insert in your starter cup around backwards....makes locating the starter on an engine without a spinner better and stops it flogging around on you lol
Thanks, I flip it around when using a hub, it would have been helpful here as well. Thanks again
I like that setup for running in your gas engine! I recently got a rcgf15cc Stinger for my engine collection and putting it on a 20cc easy stick RC plane I just got from value hobby for 169 bucks and it's really a good built plane!
Thanks. And very nice about your new engine and plane. Thats a classic, looks like the older Great Plane Big Stick 60. I haven’t heard of Value Hobby, Ill check it out.
As far as oil goes I use Quaker State "ashless" for break-in and RedLine after break-in,you can't go wrong with RedLine 100% synthetic T2 racing oil for 2 stroke
Thank you, another person recommended Redline also. Ill be checking that out.
Just what I was looking for.. newbie to gas engines !! Awesome video!!! Will recommend!!
Thanks! Im starting a new build also to use this engine. Im learning about them also.
It would also be great to see a detailed walk through on how to mount gas engines to firewall and good plumbing tips:)
Thanks. Ill be doing a kit build soon and the engine mounting will be one of the steps. But Ill consider it for maybe a separate vid. It is a little different than a glow setup for sure
Good info. I used the same oil but switched to redline. Same ratio but made a huge difference in how it ran. Mind you i know nothing was in garage and some landscaping guy saw me struggling came and helped me.
Hello, thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to look into that oil.
redline oil is a racing motorbike oil...not designed for use in aircraft engines...reason is that redline oil is designed for engines that get HOT, it will burn off any residue cleanly...go put it in an engine that doesnt get as hot, it turns to soft carbon and will carbon up the engine.....i have personally used coolpower engine oil for around 30 odd years now....its the only oil i run in all my glow and petrol(gas) aircraft engines.....i run it at 40:1 in my DLE 40 twin and have done so for well over 50 flights without any issues...i also use the same fuel in my 2 stroke lawnmower & brushcutter......just sharing my experience
Thanks for the info, Ill look into that oil as well. Awesome
Hi James another great video. I use a filter clunk on my fuel supply. Just to be sure no junk gets in the tank, Also run a filter from tank to engine.The fine screen on the Cary can block up if u get some crap through the line. Looking FWD to see what ya put her in to fly. Take care. greg
Thanks Greg, yes I need to get some filters in the can and tank and inline, I need to look into that. Thanks! And ya, Im wondering what plane to put this on. Been thinking.
Nice work. Keep the videos comi have a pile of motors and I need to brush up on my engine work. Thank you
Thanks . And good luck with all your engines!
you can bend the connecting rod in a single cylinder gas engine running it bolted down solid on a stand you need to always run it on the airframe so it allows the engine vibration to run through the plane so it can move and shake the rod is aluminum most manuals will tell you to never bolt it solid to a stand
Interesting, thanks Ill look into this.
if you clamped the crankcase in a vice perhaps, but have never heard or seen this happen in all my years of r/c aircraft modelling....bent rods are more likely from a flooded engine, or from a carbon buildup on the piston crown....if you watch the video, the engine moves around in the engine mount anyways
Good video. Make sure the 2 stroke oil you using have a FD rating. Japanese standard for 2 stroke engines. Adjustments to the carburetor you can do in minutes (watch). You won't believe that small adjustment can make a difference.
Thanks for the tip, Ill check it out.
Thank you very very helpful videos 3 & 4 👍👏
Thanks!!
hey, sounded great at the end there!congratulations! and also from a pro, I would leave all the music out of any video like this. I hope my engine sounds that good when I order one for the new first gas engine airplane that I just ordered, which I have not picked out an engine for as of yet. I can’t wait to see you fly this engine. Thank you for making these videos.
Thanks! Ya Im not sure always on the production side of things, sometimes I think I need music but honestly I do try to minimize to mostly intro and exit, then when I have stretches of footage that are no talk or time lapse. Trying to strike a balance. Thank you for your suggestion, Ill certainly consider it. I never know exactly what everyone prefers.
Ottimo video per imparare e anche i consigli degli altri modellisti sono utili , grazie per il tuo lavoro 😊
Thank you, as always Marco. 😊
the instructions for my dle 20 ra says to use 92 octane 50:1 synthetic oil, at 4500 rpm for .5L
Ill have to go back over my instructions, maybe I missed that.
Great series for Gas beginners....like ME!! LOL
Thanks! Im learning also.
Great Vid mate well done
Thanks!
I see you don't have a filter in your gas can,you might add one,the one with what looks like cloth media works very well I've been running gasser for a couple of years.I have a filter in the can,another one before my pump as well as "surefire" filters on my planes
Thanks for the tip. I’ll look into that, sounds good.
You need to put a fuel filter on the line in your one gallon tank .
Good idea.
The biggest issue I have had to overcome is that needle adjustment is not instantaneous you need to give the diaphragm time to react to the new settings.
Yep, you have to use the mixture up between the needle and the engine first
Small adjustments, wait, small adjustments wait… it gets there with patience
thanks. ill try.
I have also purchased a used gas motor that has had its high and low adjustments messed with. your video explains these screws very well but what about that third screw with the spring on it. what is it ? how do i adjust that once its been messed with? thank you
Hi, so I think you are talking about the screw that is used to adjust the throttle for proper idle when these carbs are used on other equipment. You basically don’t use it because it designed to hold the throttle open slightly for the idle, when these carbs are mounted on things like weed wackers, lawn mowers, chain saws, etc. On other equipment like this, the throttle return spring closes the throttle, and this screw is used to keep it open slightly for idle, otherwise the engine would quit. But for rc, since we set the idle using our servo for adjusting, we don’t need this screw. So the instructions say to disconnect the spring on the throttle arm, which frees the throttle to move freely and to be controlled by the servo. As for this screw, you would open it enough so that it doesn’t interfere with the throttle adjustment at idle. I hope that makes sense.
yes that makes sense. and what would the procedure be if you had a needle screw as well? thank you.@@JamesRCPlaneTech
Well, on this DLE, there is the high and low speed screws which are the same as the high and low speed needles on a glow engine. On this engine, the low speed is set 1.5 turns open from the closed position, and the high speed is set 1.5 to 2 turns open from the closed position. These are just the factory settings. once the engine is broken in, they can be fine tuned. If yours is a DLE engine, you should be able to obtain the manual online which goes over adjusting them. I go over it as well in my video on this engine. But if yours is not a DLE, I also recommend seeing if you can find the manual online. Just do a search. I hope this helps
Did you tighten both set-screws on the carburetor throttle arm, or just one?
I believe I tightened everything up as needed, but Ill take a look
Did you mean to remove the clunk filter in the tank? Any reason for that?
I didn’t put a filter in for the test run, just forgot, probably would have been a good idea to do so. Thanks for pointing that out. Always best to keep the fuel clean as possible!
Did the filter fall off the bottom of the feed tube in the gas can?
In the gas can, I didn’t have a filter
@@JamesRCPlaneTech Hello James. These are great video's that you are making for those that are new to what us gas engine owners call "gassers". I do have many years of experience with gas engines, and I am still learning more too. There are some things that I think you should change asap. 1. use a fuel clunk in the gas can and like others were saying, to use a filter in the can also. 2. on most aircraft that run on gas engines, the top of the motor is usually on the bottom (pointing toward the ground). You would have to change up the linkage for the throttle and choke also. 3. The motor mount you are using looked like it was kind of hindering the choke to be able to close it all the way. I recommend a motor mount that are called stand offs. They are much better with the rear mount carb's, even for running on a test stand and like @sendit2873 said, you should run the engine on a plane rather than a stand, but doing the test stand no more than a couple times should be ok. 4. The APC propeller you are using is kind of, if not very dangerous, since they are so sharp on the side that you would flip the prop by hand, which is what I always have done, because when you get up higher in the CC's of engines, i.e. a 50cc on up may not work with all electric starters like you have. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a wood prop just to start out for now, then if you want to, they are more expensive, but carbon fiber props are also very good. The wood props that I use myself, and what I recommend are Xoar propellers. They also come in different colors and some have painted tips for safety. There are many good carbon fiber props out there, like Falcon, Mejlik and some others I cannot remember. I prefer the Mejlik, I've heard they are all about the same quality. I recommend going to "DA" short for desertaircraft.com engine's props, oil etc... There are other hobby shop's that have the stuff you need, but I always end up back at DA. If there is anything else that I see that I could help you with, please don't hesitate to ask. I will try to answer it, but if I can't, I do know others that would.
what model are going to put this great little motor into?
It is going to be put on the Balsa USA Stingray I a currently building.
perfect match.@@JamesRCPlaneTech
Hi James. When is the new build starting?
Hello. I have been pondering that. I have a few ideas, probably will have something to share in the upcoming weeks. Thanks!
You need rubber bushings during break in. This is gard on the engine and can cause damage.
Thanks for the tip, I hear that these engines run rougher than the glow engines.
My DLE 20 ra manual says 1.25 for the low and 1.50 for the high not what you said " 1.5 low and 1.5 -2 for high.
The manual also says 50:1 not 30:1 mixture they may have change things around
Interesting, I checked on my manual and does state what I said in the video. My Manual is dated 2014 and is distributed by Hobbico.
Ill post pictures in the community tab. Check them out.
@@JamesRCPlaneTech .... I just bought my DLE20RA a few days ago , they may have changed the settings
Qual Bateria você usou para a inguinicao quantos volts
You can use a typical rechargeable battery that you would use for your servos or receiver, and the voltage can range such as a 4.8 volt or 6 volt battery. Typically you would have a separate battery dedicated to the engine and another dedicated to the receiver and servos. I use a Ni-MH battery from batteriesamerica.com they make lots of batteries that are compatible with different systems.
You can use any basic rechargeable battery, 4.8 to 6 volts. Check the manual for more info.
Save that briggs n stratton oil for your lawnmower lol.
Don't use it in a high revving engine.
Stick with redline or Klotz
That is the oil that you should use "after" breaking in the engine. The engines that I've had where the manual mentions to use Lawn Boy ashless oil for break in, another brand that is good for breaking in an engine is Stihl small engine oil. Then you can go to Redline, Klotz or even Amsoil after the engine is broke in.
@rcflyernc2001 run in with the oil you intend to use long-term.
Oh and stilh synthetic is very good also.
30$ for glow try 55$ in ny take the 30 all day long
Wow! Ya, its getting up there. Here it’s probably around 35 after taxes. And then its not always on the shelf. Thats why Im keeping my glows 40 class and smaller. With a little 25 you can get a lot of flying on a gallon.
@rcplanetech9044 yea can't say the same. I have mostly 1.60s average summer of flying I burn 10 gallon of fuel
Ya, that’s expensive for sure. I know some people mix their own glow fuel. I looked into that once, but finding the individual components wasn’t that easy. But that could be an option if the costs are lower.