Like everything there are several things to consider. I’ve been driving posts for residential vinly fence now for a few months and can say that the cost is a bit higher given the cost of pipe and adapters but the time saved on packing concrete and the labor tamping it offsets. Not to mention there is no dirt in the homeowners yard for them to complain about. I learned about driving posts in 2019 in Dallas at the AFA school and wish we would have started sooner. When it comes to vinyl fence, the wind load and strength alone are reasons to change installation methods. To each their own but we have driven posts on a 200’ job in a couple hours with 3 guys. You’re not gonna set posts that fast and have a clean yard AND get the strength that driven posts offer. We are switching to drive every job now except aluminum. For now we’re driving chain link and vinyl.
My brother and I have built miles of fence, sometimes using wooden posts, but mostly pipe for the past 30 years. We use pipe for the corners and H-braces, and then T-posts on pasture fences. Around the barns, we use pipe only, for holding pens that holds not only cows, but bulls too. For the holding pens we use post-hole diggers and sack-crete. Sometimes, when building pasture fences, for the corners we use our John Deere backhoe to drive the pipe into the ground. We drive the pipe several feet or until it bottoms out. The pipe is very tight and there's no wiggle to it, so there's no need for sack-crete on these. Of course I realize not everyone has a backhoe to do this...lol....but living and working on a ranch we have plenty of other uses for the Deere. Howdy👋🤠 from 🇨🇱 Texas 🇨🇱
It would be good to have some data to support the options. How much force would be required to out the posts, how much does concrete strengthen the stability, etc.
Concrete is only good for shop floor material... drive the post 6 to 12" deeper then you do when setting in concrete per ASTM standards and you save time, and money in labor and don't have the worry of frost heave, concrete cracking/curing. Driven is the superior option
@jasonphillips1902 exept it is though.. its ok, there are still people that think they can run around with a hammer and hand staple faster then you can with a stockade staple gun. Those people like you are wrong and we try and educate them on better ways to do things. And laugh when you see them struggle doing dumb stuff🤙🍻
I would say it depends on soil. Govt is laying steel with foam so it cant be inferior. Driven post are just as sturdy set to right depth (normally 36+” here) as concrete minus the labor, expense and issues of concrete.
Posts are usually 2 1/2 - 3 ft deep which usually takes about 2 - 50 lb bags of concrete but this also all depends on your area and what kind of weather you get. We have a few videos on this to help you determine depth and width of posts as well as showing you how to set them. Enjoy! czcams.com/video/_SjA4hrq6Kc/video.html czcams.com/video/Hii-pTgHqos/video.html
if you have things utilities would need access to you shouldnt use concrete or they'll just cut the posts off if you jsut drive em in they will pull em and place em when done or so i've heard
Like everything there are several things to consider. I’ve been driving posts for residential vinly fence now for a few months and can say that the cost is a bit higher given the cost of pipe and adapters but the time saved on packing concrete and the labor tamping it offsets. Not to mention there is no dirt in the homeowners yard for them to complain about. I learned about driving posts in 2019 in Dallas at the AFA school and wish we would have started sooner. When it comes to vinyl fence, the wind load and strength alone are reasons to change installation methods. To each their own but we have driven posts on a 200’ job in a couple hours with 3 guys. You’re not gonna set posts that fast and have a clean yard AND get the strength that driven posts offer. We are switching to drive every job now except aluminum. For now we’re driving chain link and vinyl.
Hey I’m an installer if font have already Redi driver with extension is Amazing you don’t need a ladder. And for big jobs we have a skidrill
My brother and I have built miles of fence, sometimes using wooden posts, but mostly pipe for the past 30 years. We use
pipe for the corners and H-braces, and then
T-posts on pasture fences. Around the barns, we use pipe only, for holding pens
that holds not only cows, but bulls too.
For the holding pens
we use post-hole diggers and sack-crete.
Sometimes, when building pasture fences, for the corners
we use our John Deere
backhoe to drive the pipe into the ground. We drive the pipe several feet or until it bottoms out. The pipe is very tight and there's
no wiggle to it, so there's no need for sack-crete on these.
Of course I realize not everyone has a backhoe to do this...lol....but living
and working on a ranch
we have plenty of other uses for the Deere.
Howdy👋🤠
from 🇨🇱 Texas 🇨🇱
Our fellow Texan! Good to have you here! Thanks for commenting and sharing valuable content with our viewers! Keep up the great work!
It would be good to have some data to support the options. How much force would be required to out the posts, how much does concrete strengthen the stability, etc.
You just watched the data, honey
Concrete is only good for shop floor material... drive the post 6 to 12" deeper then you do when setting in concrete per ASTM standards and you save time, and money in labor and don't have the worry of frost heave, concrete cracking/curing. Driven is the superior option
How do you drive it when your up close against a house
Driving is not the superior option. But opinions are like assholes, everyone has one
@jasonphillips1902 exept it is though.. its ok, there are still people that think they can run around with a hammer and hand staple faster then you can with a stockade staple gun. Those people like you are wrong and we try and educate them on better ways to do things. And laugh when you see them struggle doing dumb stuff🤙🍻
I would say it depends on soil. Govt is laying steel with foam so it cant be inferior. Driven post are just as sturdy set to right depth (normally 36+” here) as concrete minus the labor, expense and issues of concrete.
Sooo.. what type of wood is that... can you please let me know
Fast 2K foam is better than concrete less mess and one bag is equivalent to 2 bags of concrete
Great to know! We will have to try that! Thanks for watching!
But concrete is forever… better than foam and cheaper
May i know what you call of the compact hammer you use sir? Or model.
I want to install the terminal post. How deep ?
Foam if its temporary
How deep are the posts and how many bags of concrete did you use?
Posts are usually 2 1/2 - 3 ft deep which usually takes about 2 - 50 lb bags of concrete but this also all depends on your area and what kind of weather you get. We have a few videos on this to help you determine depth and width of posts as well as showing you how to set them. Enjoy! czcams.com/video/_SjA4hrq6Kc/video.html czcams.com/video/Hii-pTgHqos/video.html
It depends on the diameter of your post as compared to the diameter of your auger.
What about if you concrete and drive it in past the concrete!
Even better!
if you have things utilities would need access to you shouldnt use concrete or they'll just cut the posts off if you jsut drive em in they will pull em and place em when done or so i've heard
you can't use foam on a load bearing post.
You are 100% correct! Wouldn’t recommend it. Thanks for sharing!
Jeff
Let me go to your farm and show you
100%? No. You are using it as a blanket statement and it's just not true. Let's see you wiggle driven corner posts with bracing.
They all fold over the same concrete heaves driving a post don’t