Perfumery Basics : Build an Orange Blossom Accord
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- A quick rundown of an orange blossom/neroli accord formula you can make at home.
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BK SCENTS :)
Im created this base ,it is fantastic, best smell orange blossom ❤thanks❤❤❤❤
Your knowledge is eternal...
You deserve more subs
love these videos! Thank you. Would love to see an Orris/Iris accord if possible
That’s a fantastic idea! I just made a iris/violet base recently that I should share...I’ll make note to make that an upcoming vid!
@@bkscents7050 That would be amazing!
Nice formula. I found it a bit sweet so I turned the orange crystals down and the indole up just a smidge. This is much better than the other OB accord I was using. Thanks!
Glad ya like it! :)
Nice, I have about half the ingredients. Going to put the others on my shopping list.
Awww yeah! Shopping timeeeeeeee
This channel is so valuable! Subbed dude, keep up the awesome work.
We would really love if you start taking online tutorial, you have great n knowledge sir🌼
Love your videos! This is helping a lot
Petitgrain smells like Juniper berry to me, but fresher and without the smokiness
I'll try after i get nerol and neryl acetate.
Orange Blossom can be a tough note to get the proper ratio in relation to other notes since ( to me at least ), it has a tendency to permeate. I don't use it much, but I use it with Oud and it works perfectly. Nice vid by the way.
If i may ask, what is your pre dilution of orange blossom? I'm working with agarwood now and would like to try it.
I'd like to add geranyl propionate , aldehyde C10 and nerolin Bromelia to give that natural depth to it!!!
Aldehyde C10 works really good in this...🙂
If it is very sweet, I have been trying to leave the chord as it is, I only carefully add ISO E SUPER, because it has the peculiarity of erasing the sweetness. You just go around and sniff with the olfactory strips until you find a sweet to your liking. Be careful that if you go over ISO E SUPER it erases everything sweet and ruins everything. It would be like an adjustment without touching the formula of the Orange Blossom/neroli accord.
This looks fantastic - I'll definitely try it out. The only thing I don't have is iso-eugenol: Do you reckon it could be replaced by regular eugenol?
Yup, regular eugenol will work too. Just make a very small batch at first, and if you find it's too spicy or 2 indolic to your liking, you can decrease the eugenol or indole
Sam! I love your videos, as well!
@@bkscents7050 Cheers - I'll keep that in mind
@@nicholashilton2514 Thanks!
Sam, methyl diantilis is a better replacement for isoEugenol than Eugenol. If you have it, you it instead.
Hey BK thank you for the informative video. Only one thing I wanted to point out is your formula adds up to 1002. Maybe typo in one of the numbers. Lol
I think its cause the 2 top materials in the formula are off by 1 digit each, OPPS!
Have u done cosmetic science?? Your knowledge is phenomenal
Nope, i just stick to what tickles my fancy...and thats spray fragrances/perfumes :)
I hate that I can't afford Orange Blossom absolute. Its my favorite floral next to Jasmine Sambac. I mean I could buy some but not much lol.
Check out Libertynatural.com. They have 2 varieties of Orange Blossom Abs that's a bit more affordable than other retailers.
Excited to try. Thank you.
Hi BK- I love your vids- :) Where can I get the real perfumers alcohol? Thank you!!
Hello
Thank you for sharing this information so precious that is very much appreciated !
I am a beginner and want to make sure I understand well.
You give us the precise proportions to each material and than you say per 1000.
When you say per 1000 at each material used in this accord, what do you mean exactly? 1000 g? 1000 mg?
@carmentraian2166 From the comments above, BK is using each raw material at full strength in this formula (no dilutions unless explicitly stated) in thousandths and **you** decide whether to shoot for 1g, 1mg, etc. of total blend. If you want to end up with 1g of blend, you weigh out .199g Petitgrain, .299g Linalool, .050 Aurantiol and so forth down the list until you've added them all => total of 1g of blend. If you want 10g or 100g of blend at the end, multiply each material's thousandth amount by 10, 100 or whatever you want. So for 10g total blend you weigh out 1.99g Petitgrain, 2.99g Linalool, .50g Aurantiol etc. => total of 10g.
Shop and measure well - it all costs something, and it goes fast. 🤑
I was expecting something like "add three drops of lime, two drops of neroli, half a cup of distilled water, ect", not a chemical breakdown 😅. Wow was this a great surprise.
I have a Orangeblossom and Neroli base from the Internet that I slighty modified. Im exited to find out, which smells best (gonna let you know). 20 Parts of pure Indole? Gheez...
Give it a whirl! 20/1,000 of Indole is just 2% of the total accord formula, it's not as much as one would think. But I do enjoy the indolic aspect of orange blossom. If you try this blend, give it a whirl at its original formulation, and if you feel it needs less indole to your liking, just decrease it.
So, I just finished the formula :) I replaced Iso Eugenol with clove, reduced Oranger Crystals to 30 parts and added 20 parts of Orangeflower Ether (IFF). The outcome was really nice, but I added another 1000 parts of Neroli oil (b-grade from India). Still very powerful indol note, but I love it. Didn't even notice before that my Orangeflower formula does not have any Indole, so this one I'm gonna use if I want a more clean note. Thanks for the formula!
@@mybad4101 You added 1,000 parts of Neroli oil???!!! is that a typo? hahahah. I'm glad you tried it and it worked well for you!
@@bkscents7050 Actually I did add same amount of Neroli because I got 500 ml very cheap from India. So it's half synthetic, half natural. Here's a simple formula I just made with it:
White Musk 20, BK Orangeflower 10, Ethyl Maltol 5% 10, Ethyl Vanillin 10% 10, Sandela 5.
Simple but really nice ;)
Dont like the orange blossom/neroli smell on their own- but love the effect of a little bitterness in a formula. Cuts sweetness, adds a little punch! Thanks for sharing!
I ordered OB recently and it smells nothing like neroli. I thought they were interchangeable at first.
Not a huge fan of OB straight. But have been using neroli in everything. Love it.
Exactly! OB is deeper, rich, kinda dirty (but in a good way) but for sure unique. Depending on the OB Absolute you get, they can vary from pretty dirty...to more indolic white flower.
Neroli is so much lighter, wispy, airy (due to the high linalool content) and pairs well with just about everything.
Love to possibly see either a leather accord or a tonka bean accord. I know you can essentially just buy tonka bean absolute but I'm not sure how heavily restricted it is.
Tonka bean now a days is mostly made with just coumarin....which it occurs naturally in real Tonka bean (about 75%). For leather....i dont really make an accord...I just grab some leather materials and see what works (Suederal, Safranal/Safraleine, Pyralones, etc) and what doesnt. Depends on if I want soft leather or harsh leather tones.
@@bkscents7050 Oh okay, got it. I know theres a material called coumarex db that's supposed to smell just like coumarin but without any of the IFRA restrictions. Oh and I love suederal...excellent leather note. I figured I'd ask about the leather accord because I've had multiple attempts at making one but just never really got it to where I wanted, which is a very masculine, smoky leather. Typically what I've done is combine suederal and safraleine with isobutyl quinoline, styrax and sometimes virginia cedar. I might play with rectified birch tar or cade oil to add that smoky element that I'm looking for.
@@texasfan8892 Another good coumarin alternative is Bicyclononalactone (IFF). Works really good!
@@bkscents7050 Thanks for the recommendation. Well I just finished working on a leather accord and I think I finally got it the way I want. It's also extremely simple and very few ingredients:
1 gram formula
Suederal = 0.50 grams
Labdanum absolute = 0.20 grams
Styrax = 0.10 grams
Exaltolide total = 0.10 grams
Shangralide = 0.10 grams
I tried it with cade oil but I just didn't like it, so the above formula is what I'm going with. The result, for me, is the like the smell of old, worn cowboy boots with a resinous and animalic background. Definitely not a complex leather note but not everything has to be complex and often times, simplicity is best.
Oh trust me....I know sometimes when I add too many things trying to make it "complex and interesting", it's ends up smelling like Pooh. Lol. Sometimes simplicity is the key
This is great, I just tried the formula out!! Question tho: do you use indole at all diluted, I was using insole at 1%, I feel like pure indole would be a little much.
Love your videos and your generous sharing of knowledge! What strength are you using indole at?
in this video the formula is shown using the materials at full strength.
Hi! Thanks for sharing! I have only a few from the materials you mention. But I do have Neroli EO. Can you share on thoughts on how would you build an accord around neroli eo? Are all AC you mention in the video still necessary? Thank you!
The orange blossom accord in this video focuses more on the actual white flower blossoms of the orange tree. Neroli EO on the other hand, because it's a steam distilled material has a more greener and brighter vibe, almost like "cologne" and is more of a top note because it won't last as long. The 2 combined however are amazing.
Thanks so much!
@@bkscents7050
Thank you and for your valuable information. The question of how can we get alcohol for perfumes and what is the percentage of% أي from which company and how much is it? Thank you.🙂
In the USA, I get it from either perfumersapprentice.com, saveonscents.com, or creatingperfume.com. Prices vary if you are only buying a small bottle or 1 gallon at a time.
I can replace the petit grain with the sweet orange
thx
Muchas Gracias!!! Genial.
Can you make a video of how to dilute an absolute?
Where do you buy your ingredients? I can see from some of places I’ve already looked that things can get expensive fast. Would love to know a reasonable but decent quality place to shop and some basic necessary ingredients to start me out. Thanks in advance!
Hello
I want to know about the quantity given is drops / ml or gm pl.
Bk but why not just use the absolute instead of a accord?
There is no better top note in perfumery than neroli
Great video! I don't have a few of these materials yet.
I have oranger crystals but not aurantiol (or methyl anthrannilate). How would you say they compare?
Without Aurantiol.....the end result will fall flat. Its a must have for a solid orange flower accord IMO. If you end up getting Methyl Anthranilate ...you'll have to combo it with some sort of Muget material to make it work right (to make the Shiffs Base). Its easier and cheaper to just buy Aurantiol.
Hey BK. Any chance you could do something, like sell small vials of some of these blends and accords you make, on a website?
Would be nice to not have to order a whole bunch of materials to compare your orange blossom accord to those sold by other companies (such as Perfumer's Apprentice).
But that’s the beauty of making these yourself, to learn your materials and know how to use them! :) also, you can go to Perfumers apprentice website and they show you the formulas of each house accord they make so you know how they blended it, to also give you ideas on....how to use theses materials! It’s all about getting your hands on as many materials as you can, and just start blending!
@@bkscents7050 Yeah, I get what you mean. I just became a bit jaded from trying a lot of scent materials, and most just not being anything that really wowed me. So sometimes, before sinking a lot more money into new materials, sometimes I just feel like I'd rather try an accord to see if there's something that really wows me enough to get me curious to the materials behind the accord, you know?
I feel ya! But believe me, I have tons of materials that don’t “wow” me, but when blended with other things....they make beautiful smells. I’d hate to say it...but perfumery is an expensive hobby. And sometimes those materials that stand alone and ya don’t think do much by themselves, is very necessary to still have ....as to make things when blended with other materials. But I do feel ya man! Sometimes ya just don’t want to buy more stuff just to “try and experiment”.....I get it.
Hello! Do you offer in person classes or any kind of training? If not what would you recommend?
Are you still out there? Haven't seen any new content. Hope so!
Can you do Video where you fill bottles ?
Preferably a 50 ml bottle
That’s easy! I can make that video next week! :)
@@bkscents7050 thank you I’m just trying to get an idea how you would blend and fill it with pa and the aroma chemicals with out adding to much and keeping it an Eau de perfume percent range
Easy video....I’ll film it next week
Would this whole accord mixture then be used as a heart to a perfume with added base and top notes? Or is it a complete fragrance in itself? Cheers
This is meant to be a middle "note", not a whole perfume. You would dress this up with base and top notes, and how you want it to be based on your perfumes theme and what your trying to achieve with it.
Hey quick question: are there any materials that can help provide lift and sort of a zesty like quality to natural citrus oils? I’m in the process of making a citrus marine fragrance and I’ve added small doses of grapefruit, lemon, red mandarin, tangerine and yuzu oils to the blend, along with a big dose of hedione, galaxolide and vanillin. It smells really good so far, however the citruses smell kind of flat, which is not surprising considering they’re all natural. I’m just looking for something that would give them a little more zing. Would linalool help, acetates, etc.?
Before I give a huge list of materials that can help, what is your current percentage of citrus oils in your formula? Are you using about 5% of citrus materials in your total formula? 10%? 15%?
@@bkscents7050 Closer to 15%. Lol I know it’s probably not IFRA compliant but this is for my own personal use anyway.
Man, 15% is quite a bit! But that's a good citrus dose for a summer freshie. If you want boosters.....try "lemonile" which is a long lasting (300+ hours) lemon material, and then a few synthetic citrus bases to help support the natural citruses such as Citron (Firmenich) is a lemon base, Pamzest (Synarome) is a grapefruit base, and these are all longer lasting than the naturals. you may want to also try some Citral which will brighten your citruses and also give it a touch of natural greeness. Or even small doses of C10 decanal Aldehyde will help lift your citruses, but dose this real low in traces, like even less than 1/1,000 in your full perfume formula
@@bkscents7050 Wow, thanks so much! I’ll definitely look into those.
Wow that’s a great tip! Thanks. I’ve been replacing 10-30% of bergamot EO with bergamot givco and it helps, while still having that natural smell to it.
Is that 50/1000 oranger crystals, undiluted? That seem really high.
Yup, that is 50/1,000 of undiluted oranger crystals (5% of total formula).
How do I get perfume raw materials from other country such as indonesia? Do you have any suggestion guys?
Check out Perfumers World out of Thailand. They ship just about anywhere, legit quality and low prices. Only place they don't ship to is Brazil I believe.
@@laurenbray8314 thank you so much, just ordered iso e super 100 grams for sample
Is every ingredient raw in your formula including Oranger crystals and Aurantiol?
Correct, the formula is shown with raw materials
@@bkscents7050 Thank you very much.
Why we need to make from scratch, instead of using essentia oil or premade Accords ?
You don't have to make them from scratch. But it does prove to be useful to understand what makes up these bases or accords, so when you are using these premade bases in your fragrance that you already understand what's in them and it will let you understand if other materials you add to your perfume will conflict with them, enhance them or shift balances.
The parts per 1,000 is by weight and not drops right?
Nothing is ever by drops when it comes to a formula. Think of it as a percentage....so if it's 20 parts per 1,000, that's 2%. Something that's 100 parts per 1,000 is 10%, etc etc. You could also think of this as weight in grams....but just scale it down so your not adding in 299 grams of one single material, lol
@@bkscents7050 ok thanks, that’s what I was wondering. Obviously not everyone has the money or capability of using that much material so I’m glad to know that if I wanted to make a small trial size (10 grams) of this accord, I can do so.
Oh for sure....you can make even just 1-2 grams if ya wanted to
10 grams is a huge sample! Lol. You could make nearly 4 bottles of 30ml fragrance at 10%.
Please, is it possible to activate the translation into Arabic so that I can understand
Your formula is on 1002 not on 1000, so where is the mistake ?
If you'd like some assistance, I can help you with molecule names pronunciation, to communicate better in your videos...?
Thanks Paul! I don't mind butchering some of the names....it's all part of a learning process 😎