My Rock Climbing Training Routine to V8 Revealed (Beginner to Intermediate)
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- My Rock Climbing Training Routine to V8 Revealed (Beginner to Intermediate) 이호석 클라이밍
The video goes over my routine I stuck with for my first 90 days of climbing.
Hope you guys enjoy!
My IG: / hoseok_lee93
Also Visit: Bouldering Vlog (CZcams Channel) - Sport
instructions unclear, spent 3 days in the gym because of the 45minute rest
Martin 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
This comment pops up in my head randomly sometimes and I just laugh
Me too Martin. I'm still resting...
Your dedication is inspiring. 🤣
2 year update; I am now able to climb V43
"beginner to intermediate"
Do a gazillion pullups.
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend a beginner do that. It's way overkill. A beginner could be doing 10 reps 3 times a week and see rapid progress. Getting them to do 100 reps will just overtrain them and be unnecessary and increase their chance of getting injured.
@@David-ud9ju Pretty sure he kept saying over and over again to do what you can. Probably with the aim of eventually reaching a point where you can do this workout consistently with the given reps and sets.
@@David-ud9ju most people's problem is that they don't train enough, because the danger of overtraining is a convenient excuse to stay in your comfort zone
@@David-ud9ju depends on what you consider a beginner
@Al V I don't see how say 100 pullups is unachievable at a beginner level then
I'm only just climbing V5 indoors, have been climbing for a year starting at V2. My last training day I did 75 pullups with 3-5mins rest between sets, and wasn't maxed out at that. I'd imagine a climber who was lighter than me (85kg at the start of the year, 75kg now, still not great conditioning) and climbing V6+ (as you say, still new to climbing) would probably be able to do twice as many as me.
From a kinesiologist perspective, this Korean guy just happens to check off plenty of things that would accelerate his progress, it's actually hilarious. Ample amount of recovery after training, treating training and climbing sessions as two independent programs to avoid overtraining, scapula retraction to isolate the lats during pull-ups, emphasizing the difference between neck effort and chest effort on pull-ups, emphasizing slow movements for metabolic stress which is important for muscular endurance... the list goes on lmfao. Well done.
tae912 thank you:)
Nice 45 minutes between my workout sets, I love this schedule
I couldnt do 10 pull-ups in 45 minutes 😂
Pshh amateur, I'm up to 6 months between workouts. Come on dude up ur game.
It’s no wonder he doesn’t have time to climb on training days
I started the training yesterday, and I'm about to finish it in 45min (waiting for last set) :D
if you're too tired you could just rest a minute if 45 minutes is too long
“100 push-ups, 100 sit-ups, 100 squats, and a 10km run EVERY SINGLE DAY!!!”
He's not even bald though. So he's not training hard enough 😂
Doing this will cause injury. Rest is needed, and if it’s not needed, then the 100x3 each day isn’t hard enough for that person.
@@11219tt you have to keep going even if your legs don't allow you to do squats and your arms make strange clicking noises during push-ups!
Abel lol well that’s how I hurt my shoulder 😉
@@11219tt MY man, you missed the reference😉
This is going to help me send that pink one in the corner
Hell yeah, I've been working it for a while now but this will for sure make me good enough for it
v16 in your gym
Found my new favorite way to count reps: "One two three four ten"
I like the part where you said you were tired
I can do ten pullups without breaking a sweat but to do this training routine I would need at least the mentioned 45 minutes of rest between the sets lmao
Tuutti 😂😂😂
No wonder! This training regimen is absolutely insane. Thanks Hoseok and Derek for putting this together!
Casey He thx for watching!!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I’ve been bouldering for 10 years or so, but never trained… I did this workout for the first time and my forearms and lats are still sore 4 days later. Absolutely brutal.
Careful out there folks!
Awesome video! No wonder Hoseok can climb on the moon board for hours, his training builds great capacity. Would love more videos where you share your thoughts while climbing!
been following hoseok for a while.. glad he is sharing his experience
Thanks for posting. This is a plan many can stick with and has variety that will help folks stay fresh through the commitment required. Stay healthy and keep cranking!
Great video. I’m loving this!
Adapt what is useful, reject what is useless, and add what is specifically your own.
Maaan I was waiting for that quote ;))) thanks a lot I'll try to employ your routine for sure.
This is the best Training advice for climbing I've ever seen. Stoked to level up.
Been just doing the pull-ups to see how my body would adjust added the chest and core yesterday I can definitely imagine how incredibly strong you can get from this thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video I’m just getting started with climbing and this helped. One thing I’d change tho is when doing the uneven pullups, if one side feels harder for you, don’t do 10 reps for one side and 6-7 for the other. Instead start with your weak side and do as many as possible and then just do the same amount with the other hand, this way you will not end up with a stronger side and a weaker one.
my g
This is debateable actually. Im not nessacerily disagreeing with you however there is definitely a school of thought to say as long as you are doing lots of pull ups with both grip also, the slight inbalances will eventually work themselves out on their own. I think its important to experiment with your own body and see what works for you.
There's actually nothing wrong with imbalances. There's no point leaving gas in the tank just to try even out. Asymmetry is great, especially in climbing, where you can find creative ways to take advantage of a stronger arm!
so good, getting strong enough to do this routine is now my short term goal.
hats off. this is really inspiring
Just what I’ve been looking for thanks for the routine. 🙏🏽
Great video, i can’t tell you how much I love this methodical approach to climbing training.
In 2023, this has worked to help me crush a 2 year plateau. I reached V5 as my limit after about a year of on-and-off climbing. Over the pandemic, I didn't climb much and lost fitness. I've been on-and-off again for part of this year mostly due to being sick for much of it. And even with the lack of consistency, my fitness still improved over time. But this training regiment has just skyrocketed my improvement in only 18 days. I climbed my first V6 last week and am now able to do plenty of them. I'm not even able to complete the full training day without cheating a bit and I'm already going from struggling on a good number of V4-V5s to flashing many, not having any I can't do, and already seeing V7 as a close goal. So I can only imagine where I can go if I keep this up. This is just a review for anyone considering trying this routine--it might just have something you're missing. At least a variant of this is worth a try. The main things I deviate on: campus on one training day and fingerboard the other, climb 3 days a week with 2 days rest, and to do a 10ish minute tailored stretching routine during each workout. I've been more consciously stretching for awhile though, and it makes a big difference in certain techniques and being confident in holding my body to more positions. Thank you Hoseok for your resources and hope this works for others!
Update?
We NEED an update lmao 😂
@@GoodGuyKeegan Update: The workout is actually too easy for me now and so I have a different routine. I do 10x10s once a week in the middle of one of my strength workouts though, however I use some different grips and I bring down the rest time in the last 5 sets from 5 min to 3 min. I also do weighted pull-ups, weighted chin-ups, front lever progression (I'm almost there), dips instead of pushups, and a lot of different core exercises. I ended up getting injured early this year due to a nasty pocket and that set me back a bit. But I've finally fully recovered my strength in the couple months and back to the V5-V7 range. I haven't gone past V7 yet but I'm much more consistent on V5s and easier V6. Let me tell you guys something, this routine made me a monster at overhangs. They went from being mid to now being a comfort style for me. So yeah, this is a great workout to use for awhile to get some foundational climbing fitness.
@@jamesburnett3594 now I’m hoping somebody will stumble across this in another 9 months and ask for another update XD
(If you are reading this in the future pls like my comment so I can see the new update)
Great video! Thanks for sharing your training methods. Very easy to follow. Keep posting things like this please :)
04:07 Hoseok Lee’s training day
04:29 pull-ups
12:00 push-ups
13:24 campus board *listen to your body
14:57 leg raises
17:56 sit-ups
요약
- 몸과 마음의 컨디션에 따른 트레이닝 데이, 클라이밍 데이, 휴식의 적절한 조화.
- 트레이닝 데이에 클라이밍 할 힘이 남다뇨?
영상 잘보고 갑니당ㅋㅋ
mango joosu 와.... 넘나 감동입니다:)😊😊😊 부산쪽으로 꾸벅 인사했어요 방금ㅋㅋ
Thank you for the routine! , will try it a couple of months to see what happens
Thanks for the video. been looking for a routine to help me get stronger.
좋은 훈련 영상 감사드립니다. 이거 보고 열심히 훈련해서 2020년엔 꼭 12를 찍어보겠습니다
Amazing routine, gonna try it!
hopefully i’ll be strong enough to climb with you one day, my motivation!
Just wow. I have been doing V2s consistently in the gym but could literally not even hang on the campus board. Thanks Hoseok.
Lol geez my man, you are a beast!!!! I climb around v6 and v7 and I was only able to complete 5×3 on the pull ups... 10×4 on the push ups and the core workout in one session. It kicked my ass. 🤙 pumped to see the gains and keep increasing the workouts!
Nice one! I like how you put the workout list up on the video! Cheers and thanks!
It's certainly more like "Intermediate to advanced", beginner would be happy to do 10 pullups in a week :D
V8 is by all standards an advanced, if not higher level
V8 is probably at the high end of intermediate tbh
@@luketufts6827 i d say v0-v4 is beginner
v5-v7 is intermediate v7-v11 is advanced v12-v14 is pro v15+ is world class
@@damn3061 fair enough. The idea of V8 as ‘advanced or higher level’ is pretty silly to me though
@@luketufts6827 I think a pretty standard delineation for comps and things of that nature is something like V0-3 beginner (month 1), V4-6 intermediate (year 1), V7-10 advanced (typically over a year of serious climbing), V11+ expert/open (several years of serious climbing, plus a few athletic freaks).
@@luketufts6827 id say v8 is definitely advanced.
Speaking in gym grades v7+ or v8+ is most often the hardest circuit so if we went by that standard it’s definitely advanced.
You seem so honest and nice...i like u guyz
Been stuck at v6 for a long time.... will start with a scaled down version of this and have the goal of sending my first v7 and eventually v8
I know for a fact that I will die following this routine, but I really want to get strong. Pray for me.
You will not. It is possible!
I am an average climber and can do this perfectly at 52 years old with no climbing minus the campus intervals. This is really fun fitness with scalable intervals. When you feel like your motor is ready you use the clock and reduce the intervals to 45-60 seconds.
@@stevencooney9236 It is possible, but does it make really sense for a non-pro climber? A climber should also focus on climbing and technique, also on endurance for rope climbing. I see so many VERY strong guys, but their technique is so bad and they have so little endurance.
.
Jonnes __ That's true but keep in my mind, when you are getting on a higher level of climbing you won't progress without fitness. Some levels are so difficult that you use your back muscles all the time, to pull yourself up. So u could train less days and focus on your technique but u will have to up it when you get on a higher level.
@@egeman7539 Yes, to go up in grade you have to train everything, that is correct. Even for V3 to V5 in an overhang you need al lot of fitness!
Hey yall and thanks for the video. I always find interesting seeing other climbing routines and how it could translate to my climbing program. Regarding the technical aspects of body positioning and correct terms i found it could be better explained considering this video is made with a clickbait title for begginners. Terms like scapular rectraction in the pull ups, pulleys and finger awareness, remarking more the importance of listening to the body and how campus board should only be targeted as an exercise after reaching a certain level/strength. And again the proper scapular and shoulder engagement that campus board needs, etc...
In terms of the directors comment saying he would do it for one month and hoping to improve, a training routine is something you try to implement for a certain period of time that usually goes from weeks to several months. There's no magic formula appart from a continuous hard work and if climbing is your activity, in begginer levels, just climbing a lot. Even if you would do it just for one month, these results appear later than on your last workout of the month. Sometimes coupled with a deload week to allow your body to repair all the broken muscle tissue and then you would probably start to see differences.
But oh well:
TL:DR
Just remember to climb for fun and that if you want to improve figure out what works best for you by doing your own study and research :)
Super inspiring, thanks and hi from Australia.
Thanks for this routine, i'm gonna try it rn
Brilliant content 👍
Thank you so much for this video. I've only been doing this for a week and I am looking for tips for improvement.
I’ve watched this video many times before and gotten really motivaded to train instead of just climbing . Though, I’ve still managed to procrastinate every single time, EXCEPT for last week when I actually pulled through and did this workout. Even to this day, I’m still sore lol, but this will definetely be my turning point. From now on, I’ll continue with this routine until I can do it consistently and get stronger. Thanks Hoseok😁
👀
Great video! I am defitnetly going to start incorporating this to my training :).
Although I would say V8 is advanced level not intermidiate.
This is an amazing lesson. Thank you very much!!
That was a great video!
Awesome vid :D hope to get to v8 in next two months
Hey, just started trying your routine and it's an absolute body destroyer, so sore the next days ! Would recommend for people getting into it/beginners (like me) to do the pull-ups with a resistance band on the bar & your feet or tibias to help with your bodyweight, you get to do all the moves without having to do negative pull-ups to compensate the lack of strenght + you can increase or decrease difficulty with different bands, helped me a lot ! Thanks for sharing the routine, see you in half a year :D !
weirdly one of the best training vids ive seen
3 years late but i can’t tell if this guys first language is english or not? his english is so good, accent and everything
Insane value video. It's obvious that you know the topic you're covering inside out. Way better than random buff dudes who can do 20 pullups and decide to make a video. Thanks!
Hi, i just want to say thanks for that training routine because it just helped me so much last 2 weeks. from a v3 boulderer who had never done any higher grade ive been able to do 5 v4s and 1 v5 in just 2 weeks. Thanks!!
Just did a v6 :)
@@noamsegal7045 I just started bouldering last week and managed to conquer V2s from just weight lifting. I’m excited to switch over to calisthenics type of training to try to improve getting to v3 and higher. Your comment motivated me even more.
@@peternguyen6368 hows it going?
@@noamsegal7045 well done 😊
If you aren't able to do many pullups, set a band up from the bar, then do the pull-ups whilst sitting in the band (like a swing). It'll reduce the amount of body weight on your arms, you can then increase the number of reps / use more stretchy bands to gradually ramp up difficulty.
This is amazing to watch, I’ve only started climbing again and I always wondered why there were pull up bars in the bouldering gym. Thanks for the video, super insightful!
Pull up bars in a bouldering gym🤯!
great instruction man thanks
So good, thank you!
Oh wow this was released today, neato. Thanks for the tips!
thx for watching!!
I stumbled upon this from Reddit and tried the workout for the first time yesterday. I’m mainly a sport climber, projecting in the hard 10s / soft 11s and hardest outdoor boulder at v4.
I love it. I feel silly for not doing more pull ups as part of my training routine, and feel this will take me to the next level.
I modified by only doing 2 reps of each pull-up variation - still taking a full 45s to a minute of rest. By the fifth set I had to use a band assist - my form was breaking down. I decided for the second 5 sets to only do one rep of each, band assisted. I felt a bit sheepish doing such a small number with so much rest but I felt it important to complete the routine with good form. I’ll get there.
Thanks for such a simple and helpful routine Hoseok!
lmao how soft is your gym if you can climb v11 indoors but only v4 outside
Thank you for this video! Would you be able to post a video about your diet/ eating tips for climbers?
1
2
3
4
10
Doesn't seem too bad
Paizala 😂😂😂✅
WHY AM I WATCHING THIS I CAN BARELY DO ONE PULL UP!!!!!!
get one of those bands he showed for the uneven pullups. You put your feet in to relieve weight so you can get a proper set of pull ups
Same hahaha
@@callum936 when I started pullups. I could do 4. A few workouts later and I was doing 10. Now it's 18. I do the pullup so my thumb is on the outside. This takes the stress off the brachial muscle. Caused me a lot of problems when trying to do narrow pullups with my thumb on the inside. Wide grip pullups don't hurt my brachial but they're more difficult. This is all on door frame pullup bar.
50 pound rubber band to 30. Don't be pushed off by where you are now.
nice training routine! I need the pullup training too:)
I'm very excited to have just started climbing! I'm 39 so it's a bit late to be starting but it's really fun.
I've gone bouldering 5 times now, just nought chalk and shoes and used them last session. I seem to find v2 easy and v3 impossible at the moment. Did my first dyno too, and succeeded!
Now I'm just sore as hell. Forearms seem to be the worst.
I had the same problem with my forearms. I just started last week I’m 27! So big ups to you man!!
What matters is that you're having fun! Keep it up :)
@@fullycranked same here exactly lol. i found it more surprising how addicting it is despite it being so hard!
im 28 and just starting now as well! I think its a great sport activities you can do by yourself or with others :)
Thank you 🙏
Just started climbing 2 weeks ago and was able to do 1 v4 without much direction. Hoping to take it to the next level though and actually train to improve.
Love this sharing.
Hey Hoseok, I tried the training routine two days ago! I've been climbing for about a year but I've never dedicated a day to just training and not climbing, and I redpoint V5 outside V6 inside. Some feedback for how the training went - the pull up and campus programs are fantastic. I wasn't able to consistently hit 10 pull-ups once I got to the fifth set but I'm not sure how much of that was fatigue and how much was due to the back half being loaded with harder variations. I may change the order to compensate for this (normal/slow/narrow/wide/offset left/right/explosive). I found the leg raises difficult for two reasons, one having good form on that exercise without anyone in the room who does them regularly to correct my form is very challenging, but we also don't have a hangboard with enough room on each side. I changed out leg raises with resistance band assisted front levers and windshield wipers (raising my legs straight up over the bar and twisting side to side while focusing on not allowing my upper body to move). Is this a suitable replacement or am I missing important core strength there? Overall it was fantastic, it took me about an hour and a half to finish my whole circuit and I thought if I rested for an hour I may have been able to climb but I tried pointing to a hold and my whole arm felt heavier it was fantastic! Still super sore through my whole chest, upper arm, upper shoulders, and lats two days of rest later! I'm gonna stick with this program for a long time.
Good to hear your feedback! How long did you stick with the routine, and what changes did you see?
@@icedbannanas yeah good question
안녕하세요. 클라이밍 6개월차 입니다.
영어라 잘 이해는 못하지만 잘보고갑니다.
이런영상 볼때마다 저도 언젠가는 호석님처럼 되고싶다는 의욕이 생기네요 ㅎㅎ
great video
I've been heavily training climbing for the past year and a half and always love trying new routines, gunna give this a try for a month and report back! Can already do a one arm but would always love to get stronger!
Hows it going so far?
@@richardtan1332 Well, a bunch of injuries and this pandemic happened! I hope to test it out soon though!
What about now?
I'm going to adopt this for my upper body training. Your strength to weight ratio for pulling is godly.
Damn was looking at the last instagram post and you talk about a training routine you already posted.
Since im not following you for a long time i checked it out.
This will help me a lot i hope.
Im a pretty strong guy climbing since 1,5 maybe little bit more my best is 7b.
But will try out your training and climbing routine and really curious what will change/happen.
Thanks for all the great content and info keep up the good work❤
Tip: do exercises on the wall! Eg. Touch the hold with your foot before placing your hand/campusing overhang routes/use as little holds as possible etc... Great fun to come up with different challenges together and fun is the best motivation in my opinion!
Yes i love those!! Fishing is fun too. Hands on a hold then touch a hold with your feet and then feet down. Touch as many holds as you can
Wanted to try this! So broke my 1 year plateu with this training program!! Took me week and a half to do that, thats amazing!!
Thanks for sharing this :)
Just here to clarify About his tip for better pull up technique. The “Chest to bar“ motion is referred to as scapular retraction and is vital for proper engagement of the big back muscles. A better way to think about trying to pinch a pencil between your shoulder blades before starting to pull
Thanks!!
Interesting video.
For me, beside the pull-ups, the rest seems possible (just did it yesterday). Do you mind
telling us if you were able to do uneven arm pull-ups (with a towel or whatsoever) in the beginning or if you strictly stick to your
timing (45s rest between each set)?
I can do 15 pull-ups in one go but after 3x10 pull-ups (normal, narrow, wide), I can't even do one uneven (pronation) pull-up. I don't even talk about the slow pull-up...
So I was just wondering if in the beginning you were able to do the *hard* pull-ups to the end and if not, were you replacing the *hard* pull-ups by easier one, for example:
uneven pull-ups --> normal pull-ups
wide pull-ups --> normal pull-ups
Or did you do it "negatively" for the one you couldn't: like starting from the top position and slowly going down?
Would greatly appreciate if you could elaborate on this.
Thanks a lot
Good luck to the beginners trying this outlier's routine...the most important part of the video: 0:26 ...skill.
This is perfect.
Climbing is so awesome. In regards to all the physical goals a six pack is just a step. A (small) milestone up to the more hardcore side of the sport.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS. I will try out this routine too (if I can even) hahaha :)
Gloria Chocolates Hi Gloria:)
long live this man
that's one of the best training routine explanations I have ever seen (even if my numbers would have to be lower... yet :)). everything gets logically explained, connected and is really in detail, no important information left out. it is also humbly presented and always sets individual preferences in perspective with the possibilities or styles that others might like more. I have one question though regarding sit-ups; since the us military switched from sit-upping to planking for backbone reasons, the whole world came off sit-ups in recent years, at least as far as I noticed. would you still recommend them despite the studies producing concerns about the slow down-wearing of the vertebra, and why? thank you, sybille
A good way to describe the way to do pullups:
Try to bring your elbows to waist.
The opposite would be to bring your shoulders to your wrists.
That way you will engage more back muscles.
This is some no nonsense, meat and potatoes and vegetables, CONTENT!
I started climbing September 24th 2019...you sir, have just made yourself a friendly rival 💪💪😁
Subscribbled
Conrad Francis 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Sacrificing the rest of your body and athleticism to perfect a niche. Just shows how dedicated and passionate climbers are
It would have been great, to put your sets into perspective, to what you can do max. Cause ten pull ups can be quiet easy or extremely hard, depending on where you are.
This is such a wonderful training routine. Thank you!
Awesome advice
This video got me motivated to start my own channel!! I will be doing your training! My goal is a V8 by the end of 2020. I have a lot of work to do.
Did you make it?
@@danielmurawski9892 I was up to climbing V5's but then I fell off the wall and fractured my hand so it's been a rough last 3 months bouldering. My hand hurts still every time after bouldering so i'm going to take time off from it to heal my hand.
20:45 😂😂😂😂 oh can’t we all relate?
@8:20 I would recommend for the uneven pull ups to do max capactiy with your weakest arm and then even it out with the strongest. It helps to actually recover that balance for muscle strength.
Also I noticed he talks about engaging the chest in the pull ups, which is good. But a better way to imagine it, would be to actually engage the shoulder by crunching them. He does it perfectly, but I think the mind to muscle connection is actually in the shoulder/delts area rather than in the chest.
I've been climbing for a year now and would consider myself strong for an amateur climber, but yeah this workout would absolutely destroy me lmao.
Keen to give it a go.
really helpful, thx :)
Anyone ever tell you you're like Korean Daniel Radcliffe? Haha, great video dude
Hi Hoseok, I just watched your video and I would like to know if you will share also your current training routine/schedule, it would be very interesting to see how you progressed and I would really like to compare it with my current one (not a pro, still just a guy who's training hard for competitions, but I wanna get much stronger and reach top level, and I really like your contents and think you are amazing on Moonboard)
Thanks 🙏