SHTF - Cheap Emergency Solar Power! Use Any SINGLE Solar Panel! 1/2
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2023
- In this video, I show you how to build a cheap emergency solar power system that will work with practically any solar panel. I will power USB and small 12-Volt appliances by harvesting power directly from the solar panel. This simple system uses only a couple of cheap parts and does not require an inverter, battery, or charge controller.
A buck converter is very efficient at energy conversion. This particular DC to DC converter is unique to this task because of its wide-ranging input voltage of 20V-90V as many other converters are fixed to a set input voltage.
NOTE: Although 200 watts of solar power are relatively benign. Never connect more than ONE panel or combination of panels totaling more than 200 watts of power to a buck converter. If you are uneasy about connecting wires, look at getting a USB Solar Charger instead (see below). Always use common sense when dealing with electricity. See my website for more details.
** Schematic And Complete Parts List (07-30-2023) **
www.natesdiysolar.com/project...
The Ultimate Buck: Directly from AliExpress (not affiliate link):
www.aliexpress.us/item/325680...
• SHTF - Cheap Emergency...
0:00
0:03 - Intro
1:00 - The Parts
3:58 - Wire Buck Converter
4:39 - The 12V Appliances
5:12 - The USB Devices
5:40 - Something Cool
6:25 - Wire MC4 Connectors
7:30 - Test USB Devices
8:45 - Test 12V Appliances
10:36 - Make Coffee (clouds)
12:30 - Renogy 100W Panel Test
14:43 - Charge LiFePO4 Battery
18:18 - Something Cool #2
18:47 - Conclusion
** DC-DC (BUCK) Converter Options **
NOTE: 07-14-2023 - These are quickly becoming sold out! Check my website for more options.
- If the item on Amazon does not match the link here then its sold out.
www.natesdiysolar.com/project...
XWST: 90 Volts PV (VOC) MAX
20-90V in to 12V DC 10A 120W out
amzn.to/46E75Np
20-90V in to 12V DC 16A 196W out
amzn.to/3Px3IBQ
20-90V in to 12V DC 20A 240W out
amzn.to/3NPFtxt
See my website for more details and options.
** USB Panel Options **
Dual QC3.0 USB Car Charger Socket Panel Switch
amzn.to/3JE7tkU
(4 in 1) 12V USB Panel - 78W 3 Ports USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W
amzn.to/431JmDP
65W USB-C PD USB Module Only (Power Delivery for higher power devices)
amzn.to/46wdV7p
NOTE: 06-29-2023 - Wires are pretty thin on these USB panels. They will get warm at 12A
Some come with a 10A fuse that will smoke using 12V appliances.
** Cables and Connectors (affiliate links) **
10 Feet 10AWG Solar Ext. Cable With MC4 Connectors Installed
amzn.to/44iFQpt
10 Feet 12AWG XT60 Solar Panel Ext. Cable
amzn.to/3rdKRBG
Pair of 9In 12AWG MC4 Pigtail
amzn.to/3Py8bEd
NOTE: The items listed below will work with the 16A/192W buck converter, with the exception of the 300W heater. You may not be able to use them at the same time. I recommend getting the 20A converter to allow for some headroom and not overload.
** 12 Volt Appliances - Video **
👀 my website for more options...
www.natesdiysolar.com/project...
** Reputable Companies (affiliate links) **
AmpereTime/LiTime: Great LiFePO4 Batteries
3% Coupon Code: NATESDIY
www.litime.com/?ref=XBwnqBoJf...
Current Connected: Ready-to-Run Solar Kits and Victron Equipment
currentconnected.com/?ref=lbh...
SanTan Solar: New and Used Solar Panels:
www.santansolar.com/?ref=8496...
SFK: Quality DIY Battery Enclosures and Ready-to-Run Batteries:
6% Coupon Code: NATESDIY
www.sunfunkits.com/
Contact Information:
I am not available for personal solar system consult!
Email: nate@natesdiysolar.com
Website: www.natesdiysolar.com
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
This video is NOT sponsored. Some product links are affiliate links, which means if you buy something, We'll receive a small commission.
Videos on this channel are for EDUCATIONAL purposes only. Electricity is dangerous and can kill. Please use common sense.
Nate's DYI Solar is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com - Věda a technologie
>> 07-08-2023: I want to thank everyone who subscribed to my channel! Thank you very much!! I appreciate it GREATLY!!!
>> NOTE: Although 200 watts of solar power is relatively benign. Never connect more than ONE panel or combination of panels totaling more than 200 watts of power to a buck converter. If you are uneasy about connecting wires, look at getting a USB Solar Charger instead (see below). Always use common sense when dealing with electricity. See my website for more details.
Schematic and Parts List (updated 07-30-2023)
www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/shtf-emergency-solar-power/
Testing USB Solar Chargers:
czcams.com/video/gbXcJI6VRcI/video.html
>> 07-31-2023: Some buck converters will serve as an emergency battery charger but should only be used as such. I have been doing more testing with buck converters charging 12-volt batteries and have gotten mixed results. I am not quite sure why, but I think some buck converter expect to see a load in order to output any power. Either that, or it just is plain inefficient. Some will work and some will not. Even the junkiest MPPT is better at charging batteries from solar panels. Check my website for more details. Update video coming soon!
>> Do not use wire nuts as mentioned in the video. Use XT60, Lever Nuts or BUTT Splice Connectors. They are not DC rated or water proof and if the connection is not good, could create heat. I used them because I needed to quickly disconnect and re-connect to do this testing.
>> If you plan on using this long term, be sure to use larger wires on the USB panel (12AWG - 14AWG). I use the same USB panels on my Solar Power Station but I have upgraded the wires to 12AWG. The 10A fuse that comes with some of these USB panels have a 10A inline fuse that is junk, it will work for the USB and PD module and smaller 12V appliances. Larger 12V appliances like the ones I used in the video will melt that fuse. I would replace that fuse with an automotive blade style 15A - 20A fuse instead and place it on the output of the buck converter (positive) wire. I will update the schematic on the website to reflect this.
>> Just found they actually have a tiny buck with USB-C and USB built in so no USB panel needed. So if you are looking for USB charging only take a look at this one. You can also just get a USB Solar Charger but this unit lets you use any solar panel. But if you already have a solar panel, this unit is cheaper than a USB Solar Charger.
If anyone can find a "plug-and-play" converter, please let me know. I really would like to build a small "power block" for use when camping. It would have all the common outputs you could imagine. I found a mini MPPT and all I need is tiny 20 - 50AH battery.
Affiliate Links:
Please see my website for more details and options.
8-85V to 5V USB to 5V 3A 15W (USB ONLY)
amzn.to/44ibiVk
DC-DC Converter 20-90V to 12V DC - 20A 240W
amzn.to/3NPFtxt
DC-DC Converter 8V-40V to 13.8V DC - 10A 138W
amzn.to/44DeoCU
Dual QC3.0 USB Car Charger Socket Panel Switch
amzn.to/3JE7tkU
10 Feet 12AWG XT60 Solar Panel Ext. Cable
amzn.to/3rdKRBG
Pair of 9In 12AWG MC4 Pigtail
amzn.to/3Py8bEd
Enjoy :)
People need to know the "Ampacity" of their wiring. For 6' or less (Round trip pos to neg) 14ga is rated for 15 amps, 10ga is about 30 amps. Amps times voltage will approximate wattage.
12v x 10A is 120watts, less wire loss, efficiency of the conversions, and connector quality. No Gold?, good luck.
But your idea is sound, and very useful if protected from EMP. How do you protect from multiple EMP's? I have Laptops awaiting long term storage, hard drives and DLP projectors. The Sun has spat a massive CME this year, fortunately on the far side. It would have devastated 1/3rd if it was 5 days later or earlier. It would have melted all metals. Bridges and buildings would pop and crumble. No power, no fuel, no rescue. We can't afford to water our plants and the soil. Recycle every drop. Dehumidifiers reclaiming water from the air. Actually more efficient than cleaning new source. Deep pockets are trying to control water. Oddly enough, we buy a lot from them already. Sounds like Win/Win for them.
Nate I enjoyed the video and I learned a lot about the system thank you very much however you cannot charge a 12.6 V car battery with a 12.1 V system you must have a voltage between 13.5 to 14.5V to push the current into that lead acid battery just letting you know a little old fashion automotive and Truck electricity knowledge there buddy.
@@papadean. thanks. I actually mentioned that in the video as well as provided a buck converter option with 13.8v output for that purpose. 😳 thanks for watching !
my car battery always fails from the small solar system used. will try your system out.
👍Pm
This falls into the "Why didn't I think of that category!" I have ALL these parts just laying around but never thought of using them this way! Great Job!
A mirror reflector setup for panels will help boost output.
WOW I am bearly looking into solar and the simplicity of this setup 🤯thanks
Great idea for an emergency situation. Thanks for the awesome content
God bless you for sharing info like this. Many people will be hurt when crap goes. They will be unprepared.
Very cool alternative way to use a solar panel.
I bought one of these buck converters and it brought down the voltage and current to a level that I could charge my solar generator. Thanks Nate!
Very cool good use case
Love to hear it!
Finally, a video worth watching
This is a great idea. I will have to give this a shot. Thanks bro.
I enjoyed this video. Thank you. I was not aware there were that many 12v appliances available!
Thanks for watching.. yes, there is pretty much anything you can think of.. although I could not find a good quality high power fan... table fan anyway. There are plenty of blowers and such.. very loud.
thank you for your persistence and details
My pleasure!
Awesome test and explanations!
Thank you, chief. I appreciate.
I am looking for solar utensils that you used in frying eggs and rice cookers. It may be low energy appliance. Drop a link. I want to buy it.
they are all listed on my website.. check website plz. thanks
This was an excellent video first I've seen with a minimalist approach and yet quite a success. I was surprised when you were able to power the cooking devices
GREAT job dear Sir!!! Thank you for sharing and all of your tireless efforts. PEACE and God bless.
Thanks for watching!
This was great‼️ Thanks for sharing.
Great link info, thank you.
A better buck converter for direct connection to a solar panel would be 24v DC to 13.8V DC, 30 Amp..then it can be used to charge a 12V deep cycle battery as well. This system is great for running a thermoelectric cooler while on a picnic, no need to lug around a heavy battery.
Yes, I did see those, but the really great thing about this particular one is that it will work with practically any solar panel as the input voltage is not fixed. I didn't want to be limited. One unit to rule them all. The adjustable ones can do it all. Best of both worlds with a decent input voltage range as well.
The first panel I used had a voc of 38 volts. Would not work with a fixed 24v input buck.
I would second the suggestion of 13.8V. Most devices called 12V are actually expecting to have 13.8 and may labor or not put out as much power on 12V. As a bonus…. These units can connect directly to 36 and 48 V batteries. This may have been salvaged from discarded electric hoverboards or scooters.
@tegra5971 yea I saw those higher voltage output ones but not with a 20 to 90v input range.. that was real appealing to me because it would work with almost any panel. But yes. Most 12v nominal will operate up to 14v and yes these bucks tend to sag.
The perfect unit would be say 20 to 70v input and 15v or 14.8v output .
Rather than the spending on a buck converter, a small battery and controller would allow many more possibilities...thanks for the live demo 👍
Next video will be just that.. kinda doing a ground up series to cover all possibilities
@@natesdiysolar yep...good move, people don't realize the potential of standalone systems... For my money grid tied systems are handicapped in all but industrial applications... The power companies are laughing all the way to the stock market
@@owenbruce4120 yup
New subscriber here . I am glad you are sharing these things with us. I am building a 1928 Morgan RIP GN Special hill climb racer but as soon as I have a little time I am going to make a video converting a refrigerator compressor over to 12 volts. That way you can either use it for a refrigerator or even an air conditioner without having to leverage your first born.
Lol that's cool. Yea these little projects are fun. Takes me back to when I was a kid plugging a 9v battery into a 120v ac outlet.. or trying to build a power supply and having a capacitor explode in my face.. fun stuff lol. Thanks for watching!
This is awesome, I see used 260 watt solar panels in the Vegas area going for about $80. This could be a lot of fun as well as practical. Thanks so much.
Always happy to see locals comment :) lmk how it goes if you do it. I'd like to put this setup on my SxS as well.
Size your panel capacity to 200% of what you think you need. Because 50% yield seems prevalent. Highs, lows, smoke, and chemtrails. Who is running this circus?
Anyway, I, and hopefully you will survive it all. :-)
Great video -- good canera work, lighting, scripting, pacing, informative. Well Done, Sir.
Thanks for watching
Wow !! excellent presentation for my little brain. I am buying one of those units.
Excellent!
Very interesting and informative video you made. Gained a sub here, I'm just getting into some solar stuff. I just picked up 7 100w panels from a friend for dirt cheap. I have a charge controller for batteries but this is an excellent way to expand capabilities in worst case scenario. 👍
Thanks! Appreciate it!
I enjoyed the video significantly. I recently purchased a similar converter to drop 24+ volts down to 12 volts and find it is really accurate. On a panel producing 42 volts it is spot on at 12.1 constantly.
Very cool! Thanks for watching.
I did the same for 48V to 12V. I have a 48V 5.12kWh battery on a hand truck. It has AC out, but often times I don't want to deal with the losses of converting 48V DC to AC just to plug in an AC to DC converter again.
Thanks
While the thumbnail's challenge is no controller, personally I'd still use an MPPT due to its massive efficiency then connect the DC to DC converter to the MPPT. DC to DC works best more efficient if the difference between voltages is lower. Nice showing of the 12V cigarette lighter appliances, never knew those.👍
During my research, I did find a mini MPPT I'd like to try out. I use the buck as you say on my solar power station
@@natesdiysolarvery nice to see you. We will be waiting for your mini mppt.. Wish you best of luck man.. Appreciated ❤
I have been testing MPPTs all week. No, they generally do not have a big advantage, infact, in good sun conditions, the mppt actually uses power. Mppt can extract more output (creates a partial short accorss the panel, eg, a 12v panel will be loaded down to 9v) in low light conditions, heavy shade, or part shadow. However, in those conditions, there might only be 5% to 10% of full sun output.
So, yes, mppt might be 30% more efficient in 10% irradiance conditions. This means, your 10% of full sun output soars to just 13% of full sun - and this is the most optimistic best case scenario for mppt. A actual 3% improvement in low light - wow, I must get one of those.
Says me, how just bought another mppt 1hr ago, and will test it in a min.
@@nordic5490 thanks for delivering such a valuable knowledge.. Thanks and love❤️
@@nordic5490Its been 3 days
great Littie system
This is a great idea but I want to comment on the wire size used connect the switch etc. You didn’t specify but based on what I saw in the video that was 16 or 18ga. wire. That is way too small for a 20A buck converter. Everything should be wired with 12 gauge pure copper wire, with a 20 amp fuse in line with the output of the buck converter. Natural disasters are bad. Natural disasters plus fire are much worse.
I did specify in the video and in the description. I also recommend upgrading them. Unfortunately, they all have the same crappy 18awg. Right you are. Good observation. 👍
See @9:45 and @19:42 . This is the way they all come. I searched for ones with larger wires. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Most factory 12v outlets in vehicles are rated for 15 amps yet they use 16awg or even 18awg.
If the wires are shorter as they should be in this application, your resistance will be lesser than in a vehicles 12v outlet.
12awg is ideal but 16awg is okay unless you're really pushing a steady 20 amps.
@@JesusSaves86AB I would rather use a larger wire than chance a fire in my system burning down my RV.
@@Tumbleweed5150 That goes without saying. Wire is cheap and anyone willing to make something themselves will spend the extra pennies. I'm simply adding context for clarification.
Useful information.
Thanks
Congrats on 200k views!
Cool stuff, thanks & subscribed!
Thanks
Cool video! Congrats on your 1k subs!
Thanks very much, Brad. I'm completely blown away. I did not expect this at all.
@@natesdiysolar The videos you lest expect, are the ones that will take off. Weird stuff :)
Great Job! You got yourself a new subscriber 😊 looking forward to this kind of contents moving forward.
Sending support from The Philippines 🇵🇭
cool idea definitely subscribing
Not bad for quick power. But soon as the sun goes down so does your power.
For sure.
I want essentially every piece of equipment you showed lmfao! That's how good of a video this was!
We use the solar boat lift kit to play 12v radio on the dock. It keeps 2 12v batteries charged.
Awesome video! I’m glad I found your channel. I’m now a new subscriber and look forward to checking out your other videos. Thanks for posting!
Awesome! Thank you!
If the SHTF situation comes to you, it might be a bit problematic to get hold of a buck converter if you don't already have one. However, chances are you can find a car battery (or better) lying around. Just connect the solar panel directly to it. It will fully charge the battery.
The catch is you have to monitor the voltage to make sure you don't cook the battery, and disconnect it at night (unless you put a diode in the line). You can also run loads at the same time and the battery will cover when clouds come over.
If you get the size of the load right, you could leave both connected and have the battery somewhat charged, but the load will hold the voltage down enough so it doesn't overcharge.
Most solar panels now have diodes in them that prevent back-feeding from the battery, as well as by-pass diodes to allow some charge through, even if some of the panel is shaded. The origional panel(s) I bought 30+ years ago DID have that problem. However, one can now get a simple PWM solar controller for very little cash, where even a simple one was over a hundred bucks back in the early days
.
@@Tumbleweed5150 true; i bought 50w and controller for 40 euros few years ago, im sure it hasnt changed much. 50w aint much, but provides enough electricity to keep lightning and stereo up and running during my camping vacations :D.
Very nice. Other uses would be, powering a water pump only when the sun shines, and getting a 12V supply from a larger 24v or 48v battery bank to power radios or anything else that's 12v. It would be more efficient than running through the inverter and back to DC.
Exactly.. In my video: Powering Household appliances, I show exactly that. A pump and ac vs. DC efficiency.
czcams.com/video/6e3dx6qFvX0/video.html
Fwd: 9:58 and fwd: 14:25..
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Maybe figure out a way to cool the wires by heating the water for coffee 😉
Most of what you say works although, I think people should just get a charge controller for charging batteries. The converters give 12 volts for power, a battery needs higher voltage. You should have both, it is a "division of labor" when the battery charger can charge and the converter can run the fry pan at the same time. Besides the charge controller, PWM with 10-amp ($22.99) charging costs half as much as the 20-amp ($52.99 at the time of comment) converter. The charge controllers also have 12-volt and USB power outlets, so they aren't just a battery charger.
One other thing, you could get real portable solar panels for a little more than the framed panels. Look up Allpowers 140-watt folding ($197) solar panels that have handles for easy carry. You do pay for convenience - the 2 140-panels can be carried better than 3 100-watt framed panels.
That's cool. Didn't know charge controllers had USB power out. Yea I have a couple USB folding panels just for USB Charging Only. I forgot to show that in the video. Thanks for the info and thanks for watching.
@@natesdiysolar Thank you, I did not think about a converter for my DC fridge. I want to run the fridge on a solar panel (think picnic) but put that project on the shelf because I was thinking battery and charge controller. I have ordered the 20-amp module but, due to high demand, I have to wait a month for delivery.
Hi Nate. I would try this using two 6 volt batteries to get better results. Charge them in parallel, use them later in series to get 12 volts.
Just a note, DC LOVES IT THICK. Your wire cant be thick enough for DC. Remember that and you will do fine.
Nice build
Thanks!
Excellent.. thanks for sharing and regards from Deutschland
Thanks for watching! I love hearing from people in other countries!
A specialized Mini solution looking for a perfect situation.
For a real SHTF event reserve electricity for things that only work on electricity, and store the spare electricity. Food cooking can usually be done over fire.
For sure
Having multiple options is best.
Knowing the price for those kind of DC to DC converters, you can find an adjustable buck-boost converter with low voltage protection/MPPT for around a similar price.
I currently use a ZK SJ20 Buck-Boost module, which could take any input from 7-80 VDC to output 1.4-79 VDC; 20 amps, 300W max. It's a very versatile board, capable of acting like a power supply or as a charger
That's pretty good, actually. Thanks.
that thin gauge wire plus the sustained load = temperature = resistance = electrical fire. careful dude! this is precisely why i upgraded my cabling from 8awg to 4awg. damn near melted the terminals off my old charge controller!
Yes, several ppl mentioned this, lol. I mentioned it in the video and in the schematic. Long-term, you want to upgrade the wires if you are using 12v appliances. But for usb devices, up to 65w should be perfectly fine.
I just setup and used a system just like this on a 8 day road/camping trip. We had a 100 watt solar panel dumping power into a 12v cooler/heater, but we were using it to keep drinks cold. So I was basically using the solar to keep a cold bank. When a cloud would cast shade the fridge would slowly shutdown but it would almost need full sunlight to start back up again, so a capacitor bank may be needed to help fill in the gaps between small clouds and large power draws on the system. Overall, it worked well. I may just run a 12v 5A lifepo inline as the fridge only uses 65 watts and the panel has been putting out in the mid 90's. So sometimes it will be storing up to 25ish watts per hour so this system really is only to be used during the daylight hours as a 12v 5A battery would last about 45 minutes. A capacitor will most likely be a 4 minute supply of power but with the benefit of longevity.
It's Scalable!
I thought about setting up a system where a couple kilowatts of solar panels dumping cooling energy directly into a home. With only a large capacitor bank to level out the power delivery.
Love to hear it. Yea, I think that's a great use case. I would like to do something similar. I found a mini mppt just need to sus out battery pack.. LTO? 66160 or 18650. Need to do research. What cooler were you using.. thanks for this.
@@natesdiysolar It's a Kool Mate 40. On long road trips when we stop at rest stops for the night we unplug it and it keeps a large amount cold throughout the night. I may be installing the solar panel on my road trip vehicle here soon.
@@peppernickelly awesome I'll check it out
@@natesdiysolar It uses a peltier for cooling rather than a pump. The only moving parts are two fans, so that's the benefit. The benefit for a 12v pump style cooler is higher energy efficiency but cost a little more. I was handed down the Kool Mate 40, so it was free for me.
@@peppernickelly ahh. Nice. I remember when they used peltier on CPUs
I would say that's amazing. I have my own solar system and it can provide me with 60W power. Not so big, but I can use this system to charge my phone and my HTs like UV5R. Also, a humidifier running on it for 24Hrs a day.I often joke that the sun is so strong that I can't run out of electricity! LOL.
And to think.. even the best solar panels can use just 23% of the sun's power.. very inefficient.
@@natesdiysolar Yes, and the very important thing is, there are so many devices I can get that have their own battery. Like, I can use the system that you showed on this video to charge the handheld radio or phone at day, then I can use them at night. Very simple, but it just works fine.
Good video, I've done something similar to this for camping, but I found that the 12vdc buck converter was not enough. When I tried to run my 12v fridge the voltage would drop to much and it would fault out, I changed to a 13.8 vdc buck converter and found that to be more stable. I later changer out from the panel to a dewalt 20v battery.
Haha.. seems like the natural evolution of things lol.
I was able to pull 15A with minimal voltage drop with this one..
Have you tried connecting 2 or more buck converters in parallel ?
In such way you can increase the current needed for your load.
@ajarivas72 no, a single converter was more than enough.
I got two of those DC rice cookers to use with the 10 amp ports on my 300w solar power stations. My Road Pro pan was extremely damaged and useless because I can`t power it with 10 amps. I now have a large LiFeP04 300ah battery though mainly for emergency power for a tiny air conditioner or portable power for a tiller etc if I ever need it. Wow has it been handy here in Louisiana after all the storms! My pan is at my sister`s house if the OCD loons didn`t throw it away. She and my nephew have regular "Let`s find useful things to throw away!" rampages. They called me crazy for getting emergency solar power because they owed me the money I used for it and wanted to "save it for me for emergencies." I seriously started wondering if they were hitting the old glass pipe. But they`re just loony. Anybody who throws away honey because it "might be" expired belongs in a facility. Errrr! But anyway, man I love those rice cookers! I also got some of the little 350w Dash Mini Griddles to use with my 500 and 700 watt power stations and a 600w AC immersion bucket water heater that`s extremely useful if you get creative. Great for heating bathing water in my camper.
Lol funny story.. yea, it's always your crazy until something happens.. boy scouts taught me one thing.. be prepared. Send me the link for the immersion bucket that sounds interesting.. what power station do you have.. honey lasts forever!
I'm surprised the Frying Pan got damaged.. they take only 13 amps.. should still operate only cooler at 10a
Awesome. I have a boat. This is perfect. Thank you. Do you have a link for your very cool inline amp/miliamp gauge that was USB connected?
Yes here it is. Thanks for watching
www.amazon.com/X-DRAGON-Multimeter-Chargers-Capacity-Accuracy/dp/B019RHJRM8?crid=3JK1ZNNO0VJ3T&keywords=usb+power+meter&qid=1688884265&sprefix=usb+power+meter+,aps,133&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=natesdyisolar-20&linkId=75ccf8f02afa8ea1331912d42d4a75d9&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
When you were running the compressor it hit me that you need about 12 or 13.5 volts of ultra capacitors and you will have no more problems powering anything within reason.
Yea a couple of ppl suggested that.
Try an adjustable buck converter. I built this with an adjustable one
All my hot water is supplied by 6 cheap 36v 300 watt panels in series. 200 volts at 8 amps into the hot water cylinder element. The thermostat controls a 3 phase contactor (relay) to prevent overheating. The contactor is wired with all contacts in series otherwise 200vdc will arc over and destroy the contactor. Has now worked for several years, sometime two days to bring 50 gallons to 70 deg C. A separate series/parallel change over switch allows 36v @ 30 amp for battery charging. Not grid connect.
Good to know about the series connection arc. Thanks for sharing
I considered using 16v 8 farad audio capacitor in place of battery to handle spikes.
I considered this for when output of buck dropped but it would have to be large.. plus.. trying to keep it simple. I'd like to use a super cap combined with this to use with starting a car.
For the PD 65W out, you might actually want 24V input, as most of those USB charge adapters only include buck converters. 65W means 20V 3.25A. With 12V in, you can expect much 12V / 36W out on USB.
Not sure I follow. Are you saying the 12v output of the buck cannot supply a PD with 65w of power?
@@natesdiysolar USB-C can do "Fast charging" which will go up to 20V DC at 5A for upwards of 100 watts.
I have multiple CLS PD converters, most have only a buck converter, but one has a boost-buck convert, and can deliver 20V from a 12V source..
So you need to look at the spec if it can deliver 20V.
Max a PD can, with the right cable, deliver 5A. But max 3A cables are more common. In addition there is the PD converter's current limit that is normally in the range of 1.5A to 5A.
So read the specs carefully before you purchase a CLS PD converter and PD cables..
brilliant minds 😂❤😊
I have a (15-40v) in and 12v 30amp out. Just link good sized panels in parallel and have 360 watts. Mine is being used to connect a few 18650 (8 bay) chargers mounted on back of panel.
That's cool.. so when the batteries are full, how is the charge voltage regulated..
And how hot does the back of panel get.. in vegas we can see 140 degrees on the back of panel
I was thinking of using 18650s to build a 12v pack to use as power source for the USB panel at night..
@@natesdiysolar Never really put it to a real heat test. I live in WA state. If it gets to hot, I can relocate the chargers in the shade with some extension cord. Your in a great place for solar :)
@@natesdiysolar I have a couple miboxer 8 bay chargers that regulate it. It runs on 12v. The 18650s are mainly for flashlights and things like that. If I were to build a 12v pack, id go with lifepo4 batteries since the work so great as a 12v. 18650's have the 3s or 4s pros and cons issue to deal with.
I get a lot of push-back from people (clients) when I'm doing electrical projects for them; they love to tell me how the wire gauge can be smaller than what I'm specifying. But I always take them to an online wiring gauge calculator and describe the decades of nightmare-wiring I've seen and fixed for other people. When you use wiring that's too small for the job, the wire itself becomes like a fuse within the system. Speaking of which, it wouldn't hurt to introduce the idea of inline circuit breakers for DC into this project.
Yes. Bigger is better. Really does not cost that much more.
I'll do a follow-up video with inline ATC Fuse and 12awg wire
@@natesdiysolar True. Costs a lot less than, say, having to replace a burned down RV. ;)
This is magic ✨
Lol
@@natesdiysolar 😂
@@mariuszskoneczny2708 why do u say it's magic... just interesting?
@@natesdiysolar grounding...
Try out copper on your body let my no your experiment
Critical devices, such as your well pump
I love the elegance of direct use solar, I have a radio that comes on every day off a tiny 5-volt solar panel, direct solar is great for pond pumps and small fans to ventilate hot greenhouses.
Yes, fans are great and self-regulating!
When connecting power always conect the power first and then ground.
Good point. Especially when working on automotive electrical. I must have did it backwards in the video... .
Great informative video @natediysolar. I never saw the AA rechargable type you use. Can you share a link where I can purchase them. Thanks again.
Here you go:
www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Lithium-Charging-Indicator/dp/B0BT4FTH85/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=LJWYA5CUTWGH&keywords=aa+usb+rechargeable+batteries&qid=1688889460&sprefix=aa+usb+rechargeable+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
Using Wago lever-style connectors rather than wire nuts will make the system much more versatile and expandable if needed.
I was looking at the XHF style.. are those the same thing..
@@natesdiysolar Very similar, but you may want to check out the Wago connectors also, as there may be more options.
This was a great video thank you and I am new to off-grid and solar living . you're video was very informative.giving me some ideas. I do have a question for you though. I recently purchased a buck converter to drop voltage from 36 v to 12 v. How do I go about charging the 36 volt battery now?
You can either buy a plug-in charger for your battery type and voltage or if you are building a solar system you will need a change controller that puts out 36 volts. Take a look at my victron 100 150 charge controller review. You don't need a super expensive unit you just need one that puts out 36 volts. Renogy is a cheaper example.
Video: czcams.com/video/HaMdnHMxhP4/video.html
What exact battery do you have?
Add a 16v 83f cap to the mix and its pretty usefull. They sell for like 5$
It will help with sag or just smoothen the output?
Hi Nate, great video! Can you please build this for my car? I’m about to start car life soon and I’d really appreciate it thank you!
I'm actually planning on installing one in my off-road vehicle. It will be a bit, tho. Got other videos to do first..
Its a novel idea and well explained but I would not rely on something being pushed to its limits for so long. If you are going to plan ahead I think you should plan for longevity.
Yes I'd say if you use this long term.. follow the 80% rule and only use 80% of rated output. They even say not to push it to max.. did u see where I shorted it. I got 20A lol
A battery doesn't cook immediately, so you can basically connect it directly to the solarpanel short term. I did that once with a bank of Ni-Fe batteries. Epever MPPT didn't want to start because voltage was below 9 volts, so I connected 500watts (75V, 7A) directly for about ten minutes. It was enough to jumpstart the regulator.
What about the bms. Was there a bms involved.. ?
@@natesdiysolar no, not for Ni-Fe or most lead-acid. I think it should work for any battery basically, with or without bms. Going to try with a larger li-ion soon.
@freas8520 that makes sense..
Wow, i thought you were still using an inverter with the coffee machine then i read the description and was shocked by the amount of DC powered appliances now available.
There are so many appliances it's crazy. I'd like to get a whole collection lol
@@natesdiysolar I got a whole bunch of them
czcams.com/video/dekISpyIIvI/video.html
They are pretty awesome
@@natesdiysolar
Most of our electronics like TVs 📺, modems , routers, cell phones 📱, VCRs, computers 🖥, video games consoles 🎮, etc., run on DC power.
We connect them to 110 volts AC but they all have rectifiers inside.
I started to replace all my water pumps from 110 or 220 volts AC to DC water pumps.
During a blackout I can connect those pumps to the car 🚘 battery 🔋.
Somehow you need to increase your volume! It is very hard to hear you great info! Thanks
Yes. I am aware of it. I have been increasing it in new videos. Sorry about that.
buck converters step down. boost converters step up. so if you want to charge an lfp battery (or bank of) without a charge controller, probably go for a boost converter instead. excuse my multiple comments - i'm commenting as i go through the video. it's a good video, too, btw!
No worries. I tried to find the perfect unit that had a wide-ranging input with a decent 14 or 15v output but could not. They have adjustable units, but not very user friendly.
Thanks for the info. So if this device reduces the ocv will it also reduce the watts? Would each panel need one or when in series can I use just one? If have 2 the renogy 100 watt panels and would like to keep that wattage coming in.
I’m trying to charge my BLUETTI. EB3A which only allows 12-28v.
So the EB3A allows for 200w of solar input.. if you have 2x Renogy 100w 24v panels you have two options.
1. Do not use a converter and connect the panels in parallel, this will keep the voltage in range but double the amps (10a) I think if u are using 100w Renogy panels. This will require a Y splitter cable to join the panels in parallel. Cheaper as Y branch connector is cheaper than converter.
2. Use a converter and connect the panels in series. This will double the voltage but the amps will remain the same. The converter will regulate the high PV voltage down to 13.8v and also will use the full power of the 2x 100w panels as long as the converters output is equal to or greater than 200w.
So if the converter outputs 200w it will use 200w of input. A small charge controller may be more efficient than a buck converter FYI. But since the EB3A is made for direct solar input, a converter may be the better choice, I have not tried either FYI but if you look through the comments I think someone mentioned they did this and it works fine with a converter.
Not sure what you mean by OCV. over current/voltage?
This video shows the use of a 13.8v output version that I think is a better option if you do get a converter. hope this helps..
czcams.com/video/UUH9kHPPX2Q/video.html
The output number, 16 amps, is the maximum you can get without burning things. Max ~200 watts.
16A is the max for the buck converter I was using.. the buck converter won't burn up, but the wires on the USB panel would not be able to handle that much current.
To charge the battery all you need to do is get a 8 farad amplifier capacitor, i think most are rated for 16v which should be enough.
Several people suggested that. I'll have to give it a try some time.
Great video tutorial, can you please tell me where to purchase the usb AA battery 5 lead plug and the actual AA batteries that have the usb plug socket in them?
A few ppl asked this so I just now included in description and pinned comment. Also more info on my website.. I can only put so much in description. Thanks for watching!
@@natesdiysolar Thanks for that, I looked them up and would you believe it there are now unavailable, incl other brands like it….Doh
If you add a super capacitor in line it would compensate on the high draws or cloudy days
For sure
Hey new subscriber from Europe. I enjoyed your video. May I ask you what happens in your opinion if my setup is PV panel - buck converter - DC led light. Will it be safe to run this setup in case the led light power is 50% of the PV power? I will be running this setup all days of the year. Thanks for your kind reply.
That's perfectly fine.. your load only consumes what it needs.. for example when I was powering the USB devices. Those use less than 20w of power but I had a 250w panel connected to the buck input.. as long as it's rated for 12 volts then it's good. Voltage matters. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching!
Try getting a buck converter with 13.8V output. I tried one that puts out just 12v, but it was too weak. It burned out my little air pump's input plug. After I got the buck converter I mentioned above and replaced the plug, it works just fine.
Yes that was my experience. I listed a couple 13.8v options in description.
@@natesdiysolar Cool. I hadn't yet read the comments when I posted the Comment above. (Kind of hard to do on my phone, which I was on at the time, being in town loading a water tank to bring home). Now that I'm home, it's much easier to navigate around CZcams. LOL
interesting, I run small block heaters with a cpu fan from 2 100 watt panels and it puts out around 275f and will heat a small area..
What's a small block heater.. do you have a link ?
Great Video . looking for recommendations on parts i would need
to build an apartment power system that would fit in a small garbage can size faraday cage
power source (solar panel or car battery)
dc to dc converter to step down power from solar panel to micro inverter
micro inverter (300w to 500W) dc to ac (battery optional)
power target (small appliances)
any ideas or product recommendation would be greatly appreciated
Hi. So I have been working on a 12-Volt basic system video but have been sidetracked by other stuff. I have the system built and its on my website. This should work well with your plans.
www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/12-volt-off-grid-solar-system/
If you think its to big then you can just get a smaller inverter and a smaller battery but use the same charge controller. LiTime has the mini series and any small pure sign wave inverter will do. I like Renogy for small 12-Volt systems. If you want to go cheaper still, just add a small 200w mini pure sign wave inverter to the SHTF project. If you do go with a battery, I would go with LiFePO4.
one viewer did this but not sure what inverter he used, it was a 200w pure sign though.
www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/shtf-emergency-solar-power/viewer-builds/thomas-k/
Also what it's good about this DIRECT SUN approach is: no battery involved. 12V EPEVER (good quality but still) solar charge controllers don't start up when Battery is defect or drained too low.
Yes.
@@natesdiysolar YOU CAN JUST HACK THE CHARGE CONTROLLER LOL TO WORK WIHTOUT BATTERY... BUT GREAT IDEA HERE... INRESTING... BUT IT'S NOT SAFE FOR HIGH WATTAGE PANELS PROBABLY UNLESS YOU GET HIGHER GAUGE WIRE ON THE BUCK CONVERTER...
Could you use something like for a lot more power, ie. AC etc..
For that, you would need a battery and inverter .. basically a typical off grid solar setup.
Hi what do think if you use 2x6v batteries so you charge them by connecting in parallel and use them in series
That would work. Someone else suggested that as well lol
Question:
Preface: I’m new to solar, just installed 2 100w panels on my roof, dc to dc converter just came in today from Amazon. Same as yours 20 to 90v 16a XWST Buck converter. My panels are wired in parallel and I’m getting an output reading of 48 to 50v on my multimeter in full sun. My question is can I plug in a 12v 400w ac inverter to the buck converter to run low wattage ac appliances directly from the buck converter?
Yes, you could. If you see the project page on my website, a viewer did this. Just FYI, you will only be able to supply that inverter with the same amount of output watts of the buck. I think it's around 200w for that unit. So, connecting anything more than 200w would be wasted. You would only be able to get 180W (including conversion losses) of AC output... lmk how it goes.
Your panels would have to be in series, not parallel, in order to produce 50v assuming each panel is 24v. 2x 24v panels in parallel would produce the same voltage as a single panel, but the amps would be doubled. Series affect volts. Parallel affects amps.
How would you recommend connecting the DC wires if not with wire nuts?
I would either soilder and Heat Shrink using xt60 connector if you want to take it plug unplug.. or use butt splice connectors, or if you have no tools, you could use a lever nut connector (easiest) .
I see on your website the XWST DC DC 8-85V to 5V USB Converter can I crimp on mc4 connectors & just plug it into a glass panel? The input wires look small
You can. The USB converter only puts out 1 to 5 amps so the input wires do not need to be large. They sell smaller guage mc4 pigtails.. 16awg would be good. Or yea just crimp on mc4 connectors.
mppt converters are better for this job as they chose if voltage is low works on boost mode and if high works on buck mode which keeps big part of power. While this motorcycle stepdown/buck converters work i general by shorting power to negative using zener controlled transistors/mofsets untill it drops to 12~ not wery efficient ...but still does the job.
not all mppt has boost and buck mode tough, some has only boost
I've never heard of buck mode on a mppt... do you mean bulk mode.. can you send a link to such a controller with buck mode. Thanks
@@natesdiysolar well pwms are in buck(stepdown) mode . And most of mppts support stepdown mode as what i see... not all has this featre anyway...
Anyway i dont know what actuqlly buck is short for... but its ysed to describe stepdown mode with frequecy controlled transistor syncronised to output ... atleast thats the circuit i saw when desctription says buck converter in general ;]
Tye difference between linear(scooter alternator rectifiers) and buck converters is zener controlled scooter/motorbike rectigiers short excess voltage (general design is this might differ on different brands) while buck converters disconnect circuit and waits until voltage drops to 12~volts then connects back if lover then 12.. thia system gives adventage of using bigger partion of source power say by using capacitors im not sure about details... while acooter/motorbike alternayors doesnt need this excess source of powertgey simply short it.
@ahmetmutlu348 thanks for the info. A lot to unpack there 😀
You should have made the coffee first, and had a cup, while the food was cooking. 🙂
I know right
On your first diagram at 1:42 I would label the switch differently.
On yours, it looks like the centre pin is the "common" (input/ feed) terminal.
That would short the battery if the common/- position was selected.
.
Better to label the switch as
Common (C)
Normally open (NO)
Normally closed (NC).
.
With that terminology anyone can easily get the correct wiring, even if it's a different switch.
Otherwise, you need the actual wiring of the switch displayed.
.
(30 years as a service tech on business machines tells me that every manufacturer uses the *C / NO / NC* notation)
Good point . I'll update the schematic on website. That image is from Amazon.
Doesn't NO and NC apply to momentary switches only?
Is there any kind of set up like that that would work with an air conditioner or heater
Nothing big. You could Maybe power a 12v cooler or fridge. I have seen people do that. 250w or less. You wouldn't want to try to power any AC appliances from this.. iceybreeze cooler. Or 12v 300w heater. Would Have to be a very small space.. 12v electric blanket uses less power.
Isn't USB normally 5 V? I know some devices support high power charge modes, but there's a whole communication layer involved with that. I wouldn't stick just any usb device in that 12V socket. I would advise to either use a 5V buck converter or make a separate circuit in parallel for your 12V appliances.
Yes it is. That USB Module regulates the power from 12v down to 5v . No different from the one in your car. I show the power coming from the usb port using a USB power meter during the USB test..
Thanks for the video very interesting, could this be up scaled to charge an ev?
Not really. Wold not be practical. Besides, EV takes AC Power . Better off building a regular solar system .