Do a test on 2 - 4 cycle Inexpensive honda motors. And find out for yourself instead of asking the manufacturers. Of course they're not going to say yes it's okay to mix
As an anecdotal report: I just installed new 300V Motul oil in my bike, replacing the very good Motul 7100. The green 300V oil turned brown immediately from the residual 7100 red colored oil, and the 300V oil shifts very hard into 1st gear, which was not the case with the 7100. I'm going to try flushing the oil out completely and using pure 300V, to see if it helps improve the shifting.
@@lucascarracedo7421 No. Even car engine oil is indeed better than not oil 😁 Only your clutchplates might not like it in long run. But it won't like annihilate your discs in minutes.
@@jothain I digress. it's not about annihilating the clutch plates. Motorcycle oil has additives especially designed to allow low friction when the clutch plates are disengaged and to actually transmit friction while they are. Car oil will lead to plate slipping and it's really dangerous. Engine health is the least of the worries. The actual risk is the rider's health. It's not about car oil is better than no oil. If that's the only alternative, that bike should just stay there. I'm not suggesting to use the bike without oil. Just don't use the bike, regardless of where it is.
I was broke and in college. My scion tc was fed a diet of whatever synthetic oil was on sale; mixing between manufacturers many times. Car ran fine till I traded it in at 160k+ miles. To this day, I still change my own oil and I still mix different blends based on whatever I have on the shelf. Car takes 6 quarts, buy two 5 quart jugs. Next oil change, buy a single 5 quart jug. Use the last 4 quarts from the first purchase and fill with 2 quarts from the second purchase. Rinse and repeat. I believe this advice is leaning more on the cautious side. It’s my experience that switching between manufacturers and mixing oils will do no damage. I would recommend sticking in the same viscosity, same certifications, and from a reputable company.
you're not wrong. the single most important thing to remember about oil is to change it at regular intervals as specified in your owners manual. most people don't do that. what brand of oil you use is of very little importance in the long run, but actually changing it is.
Agreed, had a 2001 suburban with 5.3 that I put 397k on original motor/trans. I had mixed all kinds of shit in that truck and it would not die! Had an '04 and an '06 -same motors- that I used synthetic Pennzoil in religiously and they both went out with under 200k
@@ChronicalsofAl I think mixing engine oil might provide your engine with extra nutrients that are missing from one type of oil uses, thus increasing its lifespan just like how human need to eat many different food to get enough nutrients 😂. Sounds unorthodox but damn it was interesting indeed.
I think the biggest difference is if you completely drain the oil and change the filter it should not do any damage. But if you add a different brand and weight of oil because it is low, it would be wise to change it sooner then recommended.
I had an old 3 wheeler that burned a lot of oil. I took it to deer camp one year and noticed it was low miles away from my truck. I topped it off with Mazola. Ran fine, smelled like I was making popcorn!
All I do know I properly done on a nice schedule not forgetting your lube oil changes it is your cheapest doings to keep your cars engine lasting a mucho long time also going slow easy avowing stop and go when possible saves trips $$$$$$$ to auto shops yourself headaches some of this tho cannot always be done best each day that varies no matter where when we go travel to or our employment jobs dates shopping or there is always some kind of nut on rugs somewhere I should know my dad was a mucho well advanced aemt medic I was freelance law legal news fire department police photos who has seen what you donot want to be in an acident with drugs donot ask their arms had mucho needle marks on them than a seamstress sewing dresses would have in her pin cushion my school days 1952 1964 was not as bad fires auto crashes yes we had them tho now donot ask
@@gabrielv.4358 Yes. Cars are even less picky since their transmissions use a separate fluid entirely. If possible stick to the same weight oil. If it’s an emergency and you’re just trying to limp the car home or to a shop - any oil is better than no oil.
I have a snowblower that I mix oils in. The manual states 5w-30, but I only had 0w-20 (syn) and 10w-30 oils (convent). It ran fine all winter long and I have done this 15 years in a row (changed it each year). So, as long at there is lubricant in the engine, it will run fine. Perfection is not a mankind thing to worry about. Nothing on earth, in life, is perfect. My poor old 6.2 ltr diesel truck (1983) gets whatever "diesel grade" oil I fine on sale. It has 300,000 miles on it and I have put 200,000 of those miles on it. I try to keep Rotella 15w-40 in it, but if I have 20w-50 or 10w-40, I just top it off it those combinations and brand means nothing. As I learned in the wine industry. One tank of wine goes out to all kinds or brands. Gallo, Sutter Home, Bronco and all the big wineries just put the wine from tank 1 into all the 20 brands they have and charge a different amount for the same wine. BTW, my diesel truck has an oil leak so it is constantly getting "topped off" because fixing the leak is expensive, whereas, oil is cheap comparatively. And yes, 30 years of "oil blending" has not effected the old diesel and 15 years of "oil blending" has not effected the snowblower.
@@jamessmith9786 After working in the wine industry for 15 years, I no longer drink wine. Why? Have you ever seen what floats on top of the wine in the "cap" during fermentation? If you did, you would switch to tea.... Chopped up snakes, earwigs, rats, mice, and all kinds of crawling bugs... Nope, it does not change the way the wine tastes, it does make you think about the wine.
Different oils being able to mix without negative side effects isn't just industry practice, it's Federal law. It doesn't apply to specialty race oils, but any oil intended for over-the-road use that is API certified is required by law not to have any additives that could react with those in a different oil to create harmful substances like acids or toxins. This is so that if someone is driving down the highway and needs to stop at a gas station to top off their oil, they don't have to go from store to store searching for the specific oil they use, but can simply put in any oil that is the correct viscosity for their engine. Yes, mixing different oils will change the properties a bit so you might not get that claimed 20,000 miles between oil changes from your high performance synthetic if you add conventional to it, but it won't do anything that will harm your engine or produce harmful emissions, by law.
@@markmiller8903 Not sure what you mean since every modern oil has additives. If you mix conventional with synthetic you won't get all of the benefits of synthetic oil, like resistance to oil breakdown and better cold weather flow, but it won't hurt anything. The Total Base Number (TBN), detergents, dispersants, and friction modifiers in each oil should be appropriate for each volume of oil added, so as long as you change the oil at the shorter of the recommended intervals there shouldn't be a problem there. While each brand of oil does have a proprietary additive package formulation, there aren't that many different types of anti-wear additives that a manufacturer could put in (like compounds of boron, molybdenum, or zinc), so while the specific ratios of additives you end up with will be different than what each oil initially had, unless you're adding an API SA rated oil that has no additive package it shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't recommend mixing 5 different quarts from 5 different brands, but as long as they are all of the appropriate viscosity with the correct API rating there really shouldn't be a problem doing so.
Oil and bikers are always an interesting “mix”. Mixing is fine, been doing it for 45 plus years when needed. Oil standards dictate that they can be mixed.
Yeah, some guys can’t run their dirtbike on the same oil for five minutes it seems. And there’s always this guy that swears his KTM will blow up if he doesn’t use Motorex cuz ”the manual says so”😂
As a retired mechanic after 45 years of bending wrenches, the knowledge of oil has evolved quite a bit, I grew up when motorcycles used straight weight oils and riders were cleaning their chains with kerosene. oil in the engine is better than no oil in the engine, most of my past motorcycles the owners manual had recommendations on alternative oil f the need arose. I personally just say change your oil and filter as recommended and buy one more quart than you need when oil change time comes, if you have a shop do the oil change ask them for an extra quart-liter to take with you. Going on a trip I bring oil with me, yes it takes up space and adds weight but it pays for itself when you need to add some to your bike. it lives in the right side saddle bag with my tool kit and tire repair kit. I put my tools on the right side so if I need to pull over to tend to a matter I'm not on the traffic side of the road trying to get to my tools. Everyone despite their level of mechanics should at least know how to check the fluid levels and tire pressures on their own machines. You depend on the motorcycle to get you where you want to go it depends on you to keep it maintained and running.
IIRC my old Norton Commando used 9 different lubricants, and the primary chain and clutch was bathed in a 20W ND conventional oil bath. Even back then it was tough to find the 'right' primary oi so most folks substituted. Clutch slippage was a common issue and you quickly learned which oils NOT to use in your primary case. What is most important of all is DON'T run out of oil (or even excessively low). That is guaranteed to do damage. If you must mix oils the ASAP do a full oil change (with filter) and pay more attention to your oil level dummy! In a car or truck I always have extra oil/ATF/coolant on hand of my preferred type. More than a few times I've needed to use that stash when there were no sources for my fave nearby or even any sources of any kind at all.
Brilliant work Ari; super interesting subject that I've been curious and interested in for a while now. I've been guilty of mixing oil brands (same viscosity though) before, to get my commuter bikes back out on the road. Especially after the supply chain woes that covid caused. For me, it was all about survival. I shop at Revzilla like people shop on Amazon, so I do consider myself a channel "supporter!!" 😂Love you guys. Ride safe everyone. 😎🔥
Had an oil leak on my supermoto, kx450 so it only took 1 quart when full. She got everything from t4 to mobil 1 racing 4t, whatever was available. Bike has been bulletproof.
When I first learned that "syn blends" were just mostly dino oil with 1/4 synthetic. They charged almost as much as a pure synthetic. I started 50 years ago to do the same thing for way cheaper. 1qt Moblil 1, 3 gts of good 15-40 or whatever. Nowadays , you can find synthetic oils for much cheaper and run pure syn.
Id love to see a shop Manuel on alternator repair/replacement. I dont have a motorcycle yet but the electronics is the only part i havent fully learned about from CZcams.
I live in Ghana, and there doesn't seem to be a steady supply of any one brand of oil. I use the same viscosity and haven't had any problems with my four bikes.
Okay... there is so much to unpack here... Ari is correct, use only motorcycle oil in your motorcycle. If your bike is that low on oil (a liter/quart or more) than you have other problems... unless it's a Harley. Harleys always drip/leak oil, and the engine oil is never shared with the clutch, so it's okay to add regular oil. But bikes that share oil with the engine, transmission, and clutch should never add "any oil". The chemical make-up of the oil is critical. You may not "annihilate" the clutch, but the wrong oil will coat the clutch plates and it will never operate correctly until you completely drain/flush the engine and replace the clutch plates. Remember, Ari pointed out there's always half a liter of oil at the bottom of the engine after you drain it. That will continue to cause problems when engaging/disengaging. If your engine is half to one liter low, you can ride it to Walmart and get some more. If your engine is that low, park it... any store that carries car oil will also carry motorcycle oil as well. Doesn't all of this go back to TCLOCS before you ride?🙂
This was a fantastic video. No big deal if you mix(as long as it’s the same viscosity and motorcycle rated) but you get better performance by using the same oil.
Well stated Ari... do what you have to do when in a situation. Correct it when you are at your destination. Thus allowing you many more future rides on your motorcycle....oil is the life blood of your engine.... keep an eye on it🏍👍👍
I put 15 40 in My lawnmower runs great once i put 100 percent Lucas oil stabilizer in it it ran great mixed a little 15 40 with my 5 20 in my 10 Hyundai accent 4 cylinder 180,000 Miles on it the horse power is amazing change my oil every 6 weeks
i have to mix different oil from time to time and compare the mix to conventional, the mix last shorter before it gets dirty/worsen performance, the mix is like emergency type of stuff to use and is better than no oil at all, since i found out about this i always kept extra oil in my garage since.
I am 1 oil change and 2 quarts away from filling my Escalade with four or five different oils. I have Royal Purple, Liqui Moly, Motul, and Redline left over. Close to the 8 QT needed. I think I may send to an oil lab and see what they say after I run it. Also would like to see the additive package combination. Bet it runs like a dream.
This vid is 3 months old as I type this comment. I've been running a JASO Rated oil in all my wet clutch Japanese Bikes. Absolutely no ill effects whatsoever. One brand and weight keeps my overhead to a minimum. And the best part is I can find this oil virtually Everywhere in the Continental US 😬👍. Now don't get your panties in a wad folks,, its Shell Rotella T6 5w/40 synthetic. Love ❤️ it! Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇸
@@gabrielv.4358,, most definitely 💯 🙌. I run it in every engine I have. Its relatively inexpensive (about $26 gal) @ Wal-Mart,, great quality imho,, and you can literally find it everywhere (in the States).
Why not just buy another large container and keep it until the next change? Cold, stagnant oil in a sealed bottle isn’t going to degrade in one year. That’s what I do, buy in bulk when it’s on sale and then use what I need when I need it.
Can you make a video on the O2 sensor in motorcycle. My Yamaha FZ showed O2 sensor error code and the service centre just erased the code and gave the bike back. The reason they said was water accumulation due to rain.
I mixed 0w20 and 10w40 with 3:2 ratio, pull them in my supercub 110's engine. Well it runs so good so far. But I feel it's better to change it again after 5k km. (originally I changed every 10k km)
I love to look at the comment section on this... and i will stoke the fire a bit! Once i was in a spot of bother, and run my R 1200 Gs (Hexhead) on premix, it was at 7/8% and run for a couple of Ks to the nearest filling station and then i just added normal petrol! And you know what? Absolutely nothing happened!
I use up any leftover mixed gas I have in my car or bike, I pour it in when im half full to dilute it, I've been doing it for years. It doesnt hurt a thing if diluted, if you run nothing but 32-1 you may run a touch lean but it wont hurt the motor, that's all my lawn mower ever gets and it's quite old and still going strong. I always end up mixing up too much gas for the saws or dirt bike and have mixed gas to spare lol.
I use good synthetic motorcycle oil, but I've always topped off with whatever I could find on the road - synthetic or otherwise - as long as it is motorcycle oil. I have even had to use different viscocities, as long as they were in the correct range for the bike, though I know doing this creates an all new viscosity somewhere in between, which I assume would still be in the range required for the bike.
Each oil has additive packages to protect the engine. Better additive package will be better protection during high loads/stress. But its always better to replace old oil with clean oil. But it needs to meet the specs or above those specs. Motorcycle oil needs a specific friction modifier for the wet clutch. So avoid any non motorcycle oils :D
I generally run the oil the manufacturer suggests. I figure if that’s the oil they tested the engine with and they trust it enough to recommend it, then it’s good enough for me.
Well, my brother filled up his KLR with a mixture of nearly-empty bottles a few days a go. It initially went foamy and beige in the site glass. That was enough of a concern to drain it back out and go buy a fresh bottle. It came out black, having gone in gold a few hours before. It hasn't skipped a beat since but I doubt he'll be do it again.
I'm guessing that moisture got in bottles. I've experienced a milkshake in a bike after it was brought out of winter storage. Running it at idle till up to temperature vented the moisture my mechanic has experienced it with many of his customers bikes. He has changed my mind about changing oil before winter storage to changing first thing in the spring. I've owned many Harleys that I've riden over 50k before selling with no issues.
@@JohnCunningham-sy5ug That sounds a bit like brake pads on mountain bikes. You don't change them once a year, you change them once a winter. In the dry they last for years, but when there's wet grit flying into them, they disappear in a couple of months.
There is an additive that can "drain" the last few mils of oil down the drain hole, which then you can add up your favorite in a pinch. That additive isn't new or old, so you can do it yourself when changing oil at your garage. Just pour the recommended amount into your tank with engine running for 5min, then drain the rest of it. It ain't perfect, but just one of many solutions if you prefer.
What is this additive called? I'm dying to do this--my fresh oil always turns very dark seconds after starting the engine. Considering doing a few changes in a row, but an additive would be MUCH cheaper.
@@TravisTerrell ah yeah now that you are asking, it's just engine flush (or oil system cleaner, watever). There are types for pouring directly into gas tanks or via oil port. I used the former one for years now. Purchase online and pour the recommended amount into your tank (may vary per tank's volume) or the oil port (also vary per bike's oil volume, 1.1L or 1.5L requires 50-80ml of that additive). Then run the engine for 5-10min (check the manual) and drain the oil as usual. Not 'till the last drop, though, but changing with new oil would be much better. If your bike has maintenance at any dealer, you may have seen one of those additive being used. Cars, too.
I have old bikes,like '92,'95 and '95. A motul like they say,the best(wich I don't believ) cost 3 time like normal oils for cars! So I was buying Castrol edge for cars and mixed with around 150-200grams of automatic gear oil that remains from my car! It runs perfect,changing gears smooth!
Castrol Edge is the good stuff. I happen to also to try Castrol Magnatec on my SX4 Scorpio daily rider, and it runs perfectly fine. no clutch slips, burn in, or any of those suspect of using car oil on motorcycles. In fact with the exception of the wallet-drilling Motuls and Ipones, this pretty much make many of the cheap moto oils sold in my area obsolete. the rule of thumb is as long as you're not using the thinner, Eco-conserving oils for your bike, you should be fine. From my experience, the absolute minimum for the viscosity level is 5W-40. You can get away with the 5W-30 but make sure that your clutch is in perfect condition and that oil has ACEA A3/B4 certification on it. or, just be easy and use something like Amsoil.
"A motul like they say,the best(wich I don't believ) " - quality, but ordinary oils from ordinary blender. Nothing special about them. Got their asses kicked in Germany few years ago and removed "Full sythetic" off the labels.
@@AudriusN I avoid their 3xxx and 5xxx series like a plague because they are not worth the price. With that kind of money I can buy something like Liqui Moly's Leitchlauf (the old gray bottle one), Street, Fuchs Silikolene 4T, or Ravenol TSI(with the exception of LM Street, they are all passenger car motor oils that happens to work like magic on bikes), which are vastly superior and have longer drain intervals (both can reach up to 7000-8000 km every drain).
I do mix oiks sometimes, but generally avoid it. However, big issue comes with 2 stroke oil. Mineral based and castor based oils WILL react badly with each other. Only other time i have known oils react was my father having issues with differential oil in a car. Where the residue and the new oil seemed to react and form a lumpy mess.
Summs it up perfect; any oil is better than none/not enough (with the asterisk saying that may not be true if you use olive oil, lamp oil, whale oil, ect) but that it is best case scenario when its all the same thing going into your crankcase.
Im pretty sure you can add cooking oils to low engine oil and it wont destroy the engine that fast. It will, after a little time. But in case of emergency, ya any oil is better then *not enough* oil. Im saying mixed with low oil already in the car.
@@skie6282 There's a few channels that have done the cooking oil thing, I don't recall it ending well. It's something I would do to get myself out of a life or death situation, but I'd rather take a walk and find something suitable for an engine.
Done it for years, works fine. Used the cheapest oil i can find for years, works fine. Like they say the cheap oil now is still better than the oil from 30 years ago
There is one problem, and that is mixing vegetable based oil like old fashioned Castrol R with mineral oil that will cause an emulsion. Some oils are better than others. But I can't tell you which. The W part is a cold temp flow so putting a 20(lol) W into a 0W and try to drive at below 0 C, then you might kill you engine due to cavitation and gel formation.
I did this with mine and it still run like brand-new till today since 2017. Enoc semi 20w 40 was mixed with Motul 10w 40 Ester. It was alright, I didn't have enough Motul that day and had to do drastic measures..
Great job Mate although it’s funny how things have changed. I remember as a kid many many moons ago oils never came in plastic bottles but instead you’d got fill up at the servo check your oil and you could get oil from glass bottles the servo provided and refilled daily. Here in Australia back then you also never had the variety in grades or oil companies we see today neither. Anyway love your work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Back in the day I can buy oil in bulk from oil drums at the oil store too. still to this day I think. I can just mention the volume I need and the shop clerk will fill it for me, then I pay it. No questions asked. speaking of mixed oil, I find one interesting brand from Down Under who formulated oil for both cars and bikes, and I find it fascinating in this era of oils being very specialized: Penrite. Not only they marketed as both, but the good thing is that the oil is actually good stuff!
@@sx4mania35 I’ve actually used Penrite oil quite a bit with my Commodore Ute before I got rid of it and just so you know back in the day for me was about 50 years ago and the most popular oil where I lived was Castrol. Living in the bush we never saw Penrite
@@sx4mania35 you can buy Penrite oil here today still in 20 litre or 21 quart drums which is handy when you use 6.5 litres or 6.8 quarts every 5000kms or 3100miles at oil change time. 😉😉😉 Bloody V6 Chev motors
@@davegoldspink5354 That's nice to hear. I've seen several old holdens here in my hometown, and if they haven't restored, they are either just sit in a shed or an empty parking ground, or ran poorly. seen one with the V8 but not running. Penrite is sold here in either 1 litre bottle or a 5 litre jug because most of the cars that used it here have 5+ L capacity. does not hurt that a lot of bikes uses around 1 litre on oil changes (most bikes sold here are under 250 ccs so their crankcase sizes are rather small)
per manual, my bike takes two weights of oil depending on the season. the manual says oil capacity is 3.2L w/ filter removed and 3.8L engine rebuilt. so from cold to hot season about 1/2L of 10w-40 gets mixed with 3L of 20w-50. the manual doesn't mention siphoning out the "winter oil" and they've been making my engine for almost 2 decades, so... :)
RevZilla stocks all the most popular brands of engine oil: rvz.la/448GGVm
tell your IT guys to have an option on the website to filter between conventional and synthetic oil.
@@Beamerboy95 Please 😉😂
Just stop oil
Do a test on 2 - 4 cycle Inexpensive honda motors. And find out for yourself instead of asking the manufacturers. Of course they're not going to say yes it's okay to mix
As an anecdotal report: I just installed new 300V Motul oil in my bike, replacing the very good Motul 7100. The green 300V oil turned brown immediately from the residual 7100 red colored oil, and the 300V oil shifts very hard into 1st gear, which was not the case with the 7100. I'm going to try flushing the oil out completely and using pure 300V, to see if it helps improve the shifting.
Ultimately, in the worst case scenarios. Any engine oil is better than no engine oil
can attest to this after seizing a drz400 lol
Put the oil in that will keep the thing running long enough to get home.
As long as it's motorcycle oil, yes.
@@lucascarracedo7421 No. Even car engine oil is indeed better than not oil 😁
Only your clutchplates might not like it in long run. But it won't like annihilate your discs in minutes.
@@jothain I digress. it's not about annihilating the clutch plates.
Motorcycle oil has additives especially designed to allow low friction when the clutch plates are disengaged and to actually transmit friction while they are. Car oil will lead to plate slipping and it's really dangerous.
Engine health is the least of the worries. The actual risk is the rider's health.
It's not about car oil is better than no oil. If that's the only alternative, that bike should just stay there. I'm not suggesting to use the bike without oil. Just don't use the bike, regardless of where it is.
I was broke and in college. My scion tc was fed a diet of whatever synthetic oil was on sale; mixing between manufacturers many times. Car ran fine till I traded it in at 160k+ miles.
To this day, I still change my own oil and I still mix different blends based on whatever I have on the shelf. Car takes 6 quarts, buy two 5 quart jugs. Next oil change, buy a single 5 quart jug. Use the last 4 quarts from the first purchase and fill with 2 quarts from the second purchase. Rinse and repeat.
I believe this advice is leaning more on the cautious side. It’s my experience that switching between manufacturers and mixing oils will do no damage. I would recommend sticking in the same viscosity, same certifications, and from a reputable company.
you're not wrong. the single most important thing to remember about oil is to change it at regular intervals as specified in your owners manual. most people don't do that. what brand of oil you use is of very little importance in the long run, but actually changing it is.
I've been using cheaper car motor oil (10w40) in my 85 Yamaha xj700 motorcycle for years with no issues. Plus mixing different brands of 10w40 oils.
Agreed, had a 2001 suburban with 5.3 that I put 397k on original motor/trans. I had mixed all kinds of shit in that truck and it would not die! Had an '04 and an '06 -same motors- that I used synthetic Pennzoil in religiously and they both went out with under 200k
@@ChronicalsofAl I think mixing engine oil might provide your engine with extra nutrients that are missing from one type of oil uses, thus increasing its lifespan just like how human need to eat many different food to get enough nutrients 😂. Sounds unorthodox but damn it was interesting indeed.
I think the biggest difference is if you completely drain the oil and change the filter it should not do any damage. But if you add a different brand and weight of oil because it is low, it would be wise to change it sooner then recommended.
So long as you are not running a highly tuned engine at full revs over race distance - oil is oil, it lubricates.
I used to run Mobile One in my R1. Never had a problem over 10 years.
Since you say oil is oil...then vegetable oil should lubricate just as good
@@speedyme200well obviously he means engine oil of the correct viscosity...
I never raced the R1 to be honest, but I wouldn’t have cheaped out on the oil if I were doing that.
@@speedyme200 do you really have to be _that guy?_
Ari is a qualified mixologist. Cheers
I just learned he likes to bake cakes
Truth. 💯👍🏻 -Ohio 🇺🇸
I had an old 3 wheeler that burned a lot of oil. I took it to deer camp one year and noticed it was low miles away from my truck. I topped it off with Mazola. Ran fine, smelled like I was making popcorn!
It should never get above the smoke point, so I don't see why not. 😅
You were very lucky!
Mazola! Lololo
All I do know I properly done on a nice schedule not forgetting your lube oil changes it is your cheapest doings to keep your cars engine lasting a mucho long time also going slow easy avowing stop and go when possible saves trips $$$$$$$ to auto shops yourself headaches some of this tho cannot always be done best each day that varies no matter where when we go travel to or our employment jobs dates shopping or there is always some kind of nut on rugs somewhere I should know my dad was a mucho well advanced aemt medic I was freelance law legal news fire department police photos who has seen what you donot want to be in an acident with drugs donot ask their arms had mucho needle marks on them than a seamstress sewing dresses would have in her pin cushion my school days 1952 1964 was not as bad fires auto crashes yes we had them tho now donot ask
But it was a 3 wheeler, they’ll run on anything.
Smart is knowing you can mix oils. Wisdom is using a cake analogy so you can get paid to eat cake.
Well, any excuse is good when it comes to cakes.
Cake analogy is for kids not mechanics! What a load of BS.
will it work in cars?
@@gabrielv.4358 Yes. Cars are even less picky since their transmissions use a separate fluid entirely. If possible stick to the same weight oil. If it’s an emergency and you’re just trying to limp the car home or to a shop - any oil is better than no oil.
I have a snowblower that I mix oils in. The manual states 5w-30, but I only had 0w-20 (syn) and 10w-30 oils (convent). It ran fine all winter long and I have done this 15 years in a row (changed it each year). So, as long at there is lubricant in the engine, it will run fine. Perfection is not a mankind thing to worry about. Nothing on earth, in life, is perfect. My poor old 6.2 ltr diesel truck (1983) gets whatever "diesel grade" oil I fine on sale. It has 300,000 miles on it and I have put 200,000 of those miles on it. I try to keep Rotella 15w-40 in it, but if I have 20w-50 or 10w-40, I just top it off it those combinations and brand means nothing. As I learned in the wine industry. One tank of wine goes out to all kinds or brands. Gallo, Sutter Home, Bronco and all the big wineries just put the wine from tank 1 into all the 20 brands they have and charge a different amount for the same wine. BTW, my diesel truck has an oil leak so it is constantly getting "topped off" because fixing the leak is expensive, whereas, oil is cheap comparatively. And yes, 30 years of "oil blending" has not effected the old diesel and 15 years of "oil blending" has not effected the snowblower.
Based. Most oil-related problems are due to incorrect fill amount or extreme age/dirtiness.
But has it affected how your wine tastes?
@@jamessmith9786 After working in the wine industry for 15 years, I no longer drink wine. Why? Have you ever seen what floats on top of the wine in the "cap" during fermentation? If you did, you would switch to tea.... Chopped up snakes, earwigs, rats, mice, and all kinds of crawling bugs... Nope, it does not change the way the wine tastes, it does make you think about the wine.
Different oils being able to mix without negative side effects isn't just industry practice, it's Federal law. It doesn't apply to specialty race oils, but any oil intended for over-the-road use that is API certified is required by law not to have any additives that could react with those in a different oil to create harmful substances like acids or toxins. This is so that if someone is driving down the highway and needs to stop at a gas station to top off their oil, they don't have to go from store to store searching for the specific oil they use, but can simply put in any oil that is the correct viscosity for their engine. Yes, mixing different oils will change the properties a bit so you might not get that claimed 20,000 miles between oil changes from your high performance synthetic if you add conventional to it, but it won't do anything that will harm your engine or produce harmful emissions, by law.
If you mix oils you will have low concentration of the needed additives so don't do it.
@@markmiller8903 Not sure what you mean since every modern oil has additives. If you mix conventional with synthetic you won't get all of the benefits of synthetic oil, like resistance to oil breakdown and better cold weather flow, but it won't hurt anything. The Total Base Number (TBN), detergents, dispersants, and friction modifiers in each oil should be appropriate for each volume of oil added, so as long as you change the oil at the shorter of the recommended intervals there shouldn't be a problem there. While each brand of oil does have a proprietary additive package formulation, there aren't that many different types of anti-wear additives that a manufacturer could put in (like compounds of boron, molybdenum, or zinc), so while the specific ratios of additives you end up with will be different than what each oil initially had, unless you're adding an API SA rated oil that has no additive package it shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't recommend mixing 5 different quarts from 5 different brands, but as long as they are all of the appropriate viscosity with the correct API rating there really shouldn't be a problem doing so.
I have been riding longer that Ari and Zach have been alive and these two men have done more for motorcycling than anyone else.
Oil and bikers are always an interesting “mix”. Mixing is fine, been doing it for 45 plus years when needed. Oil standards dictate that they can be mixed.
Yeah, some guys can’t run their dirtbike on the same oil for five minutes it seems. And there’s always this guy that swears his KTM will blow up if he doesn’t use Motorex cuz ”the manual says so”😂
@@HeyAddieImTojoand it will blow up but it’s because it’s a ktm in the first place.
Was just thinking about this so thank you Ari! Well spoken as always
As a retired mechanic after 45 years of bending wrenches, the knowledge of oil has evolved quite a bit, I grew up when motorcycles used straight weight oils and riders were cleaning their chains with kerosene.
oil in the engine is better than no oil in the engine, most of my past motorcycles the owners manual had recommendations on alternative oil f the need arose.
I personally just say change your oil and filter as recommended and buy one more quart than you need when oil change time comes, if you have a shop do the oil change ask them for an extra quart-liter to take with you.
Going on a trip I bring oil with me, yes it takes up space and adds weight but it pays for itself when you need to add some to your bike. it lives in the right side saddle bag with my tool kit and tire repair kit.
I put my tools on the right side so if I need to pull over to tend to a matter I'm not on the traffic side of the road trying to get to my tools.
Everyone despite their level of mechanics should at least know how to check the fluid levels and tire pressures on their own machines.
You depend on the motorcycle to get you where you want to go it depends on you to keep it maintained and running.
Chain manufacturers (DID , EK) recommend that only kerosene is used to clean their chains
IIRC my old Norton Commando used 9 different lubricants, and the primary chain and clutch was bathed in a 20W ND conventional oil bath. Even back then it was tough to find the 'right' primary oi so most folks substituted. Clutch slippage was a common issue and you quickly learned which oils NOT to use in your primary case.
What is most important of all is DON'T run out of oil (or even excessively low). That is guaranteed to do damage. If you must mix oils the ASAP do a full oil change (with filter) and pay more attention to your oil level dummy! In a car or truck I always have extra oil/ATF/coolant on hand of my preferred type. More than a few times I've needed to use that stash when there were no sources for my fave nearby or even any sources of any kind at all.
Brilliant work Ari; super interesting subject that I've been curious and interested in for a while now. I've been guilty of mixing oil brands (same viscosity though) before, to get my commuter bikes back out on the road. Especially after the supply chain woes that covid caused. For me, it was all about survival. I shop at Revzilla like people shop on Amazon, so I do consider myself a channel "supporter!!" 😂Love you guys. Ride safe everyone. 😎🔥
I played back that punch at 0.25x and it looks like he really caught your cheek and nose! 😮
Thanks for taking one for the team.
👊
Had an oil leak on my supermoto, kx450 so it only took 1 quart when full. She got everything from t4 to mobil 1 racing 4t, whatever was available. Bike has been bulletproof.
Had to do this the first time I took my bike from fl to pa and back. Immediately changed the oil as soon as I got home.
Many thanks. Your explanation makes intuitive sense.
This video literally came right at the perfect time i always wondered about this.
Love this please make more!!
Good to see you Ari! Have good day man!
Love your content. So down to earth… thanks Rockstar!
Dude!! I was changing my oil just a couple days ago and I was thinking this that exact video!
When I first learned that "syn blends" were just mostly dino oil with 1/4 synthetic. They charged almost as much as a pure synthetic.
I started 50 years ago to do the same thing for way cheaper.
1qt Moblil 1, 3 gts of good 15-40 or whatever.
Nowadays , you can find synthetic oils for much cheaper and run pure syn.
Thanks for the study and details
I mixed them all the time. My dodge Dakota lasted for 330 thousand miles
Thanks Ari. I learned something today as well. Who knew if you mixing different cake mixes you might won't get the desired result.
If you have multiple boxes of cake mix, you probably don't ride a motorcycle..... 😏
Id love to see a shop Manuel on alternator repair/replacement. I dont have a motorcycle yet but the electronics is the only part i havent fully learned about from CZcams.
Partzilla with John Tally.
I live in Ghana, and there doesn't seem to be a steady supply of any one brand of oil. I use the same viscosity and haven't had any problems with my four bikes.
Okay... there is so much to unpack here... Ari is correct, use only motorcycle oil in your motorcycle. If your bike is that low on oil (a liter/quart or more) than you have other problems... unless it's a Harley. Harleys always drip/leak oil, and the engine oil is never shared with the clutch, so it's okay to add regular oil. But bikes that share oil with the engine, transmission, and clutch should never add "any oil". The chemical make-up of the oil is critical. You may not "annihilate" the clutch, but the wrong oil will coat the clutch plates and it will never operate correctly until you completely drain/flush the engine and replace the clutch plates. Remember, Ari pointed out there's always half a liter of oil at the bottom of the engine after you drain it. That will continue to cause problems when engaging/disengaging. If your engine is half to one liter low, you can ride it to Walmart and get some more. If your engine is that low, park it... any store that carries car oil will also carry motorcycle oil as well. Doesn't all of this go back to TCLOCS before you ride?🙂
Thank you for this
Now i learn something this day 👍👍
the punch in the face was a great surprise! Enjoyed the info, and the humor.
10 w40 ( car oil ) in my bandit people said clutch will slip. 46 000 miles still waiting for it to slip.
10w40 car oil isnt resource conserving so its fine in bikes.
As long as it ain't synthetic your good
Good Fan Of Your Works.....Brother....Thanx
This was a fantastic video. No big deal if you mix(as long as it’s the same viscosity and motorcycle rated) but you get better performance by using the same oil.
I've mixed oils for 60 years. Both 2 stroke and 4 stroke oils. Never had an issue.
Very good info, thanks !
Thanks for clarification
Good stuff as always.
Well stated Ari... do what you have to do when in a situation. Correct it when you are at your destination. Thus allowing you many more future rides on your motorcycle....oil is the life blood of your engine.... keep an eye on it🏍👍👍
A series of videos on road side repairs could be cool too!
Thanks for the info.🤔
Same deal as a Long Island Iced Tea! Thanks for researching and eliminating anxieties we’ve all had.
I put 15 40 in My lawnmower runs great once i put 100 percent Lucas oil stabilizer in it it ran great mixed a little 15 40 with my 5 20 in my 10 Hyundai accent 4 cylinder 180,000 Miles on it the horse power is amazing change my oil every 6 weeks
Back in the day, $20 bought oil and filter for a Saturday Morning Bike Oil change. Now you can barely buy a quart of the slippery stuff....
.... and back in the day we used dinosaur oil and paper filters.
i have to mix different oil from time to time and compare the mix to conventional, the mix last shorter before it gets dirty/worsen performance, the mix is like emergency type of stuff to use and is better than no oil at all, since i found out about this i always kept extra oil in my garage since.
The punch just made me laugh, thanks for your manual videos, I like them a lot 🤟🏼
Your spot on in a pinch it's better to top off then not, but change asap . Matt,ky
You keep it up Ari Henning!
I love seeing the cbr 300r engine in your desk (I've a cbr 250r)
I am 1 oil change and 2 quarts away from filling my Escalade with four or five different oils. I have Royal Purple, Liqui Moly, Motul, and Redline left over. Close to the 8 QT needed. I think I may send to an oil lab and see what they say after I run it. Also would like to see the additive package combination. Bet it runs like a dream.
I run ATF in my 5 speed manual truck trans. I also run it in my KX500's gear box. After countless hours and miles, it hasnt been a problem in either.
Done this forever, it's fine 👌👍
Excellent info.
This vid is 3 months old as I type this comment.
I've been running a JASO Rated oil in all my wet clutch Japanese Bikes. Absolutely no ill effects whatsoever.
One brand and weight keeps my overhead to a minimum. And the best part is I can find this oil virtually Everywhere in the Continental US 😬👍.
Now don't get your panties in a wad folks,, its
Shell Rotella T6
5w/40 synthetic.
Love ❤️ it!
Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇸
Aloha for Sharing your Advices
Does th 5 weight make the engine noisy?
@@jamesringler987 ,, nope..
will it work on car engines?
@@gabrielv.4358,,
most definitely 💯 🙌.
I run it in every engine I have. Its relatively inexpensive (about $26 gal) @ Wal-Mart,, great quality imho,, and you can literally find it everywhere (in the States).
Thanks a lot. I always mix synthetic and mineral to avoid opening an additional expensive bottle for just a small portion
Why not just buy another large container and keep it until the next change? Cold, stagnant oil in a sealed bottle isn’t going to degrade in one year. That’s what I do, buy in bulk when it’s on sale and then use what I need when I need it.
oil doesn't get contaminated by opening the container... (brake fluids do, w/ one exception, the silicon based one )
@@TheCubicnz good suggestion but not an option in my country. All bottles here are 1L or 1 Quart.
will it work with car engines?
I run a blend of canola and extra virgin olive oil. Works great and the fries taste yummy.
You missed the point by using different grades.
You should have used REULAR olive oil and Extra Virgin olive oil.
Just saying 😊 .
Great video!
Can you make a video on the O2 sensor in motorcycle. My Yamaha FZ showed O2 sensor error code and the service centre just erased the code and gave the bike back. The reason they said was water accumulation due to rain.
All good to know thanks for sharing
Excellent 😊
I mixed 0w20 and 10w40 with 3:2 ratio, pull them in my supercub 110's engine. Well it runs so good so far.
But I feel it's better to change it again after 5k km. (originally I changed every 10k km)
I love to look at the comment section on this... and i will stoke the fire a bit! Once i was in a spot of bother, and run my R 1200 Gs (Hexhead) on premix, it was at 7/8% and run for a couple of Ks to the nearest filling station and then i just added normal petrol! And you know what? Absolutely nothing happened!
I use up any leftover mixed gas I have in my car or bike, I pour it in when im half full to dilute it, I've been doing it for years. It doesnt hurt a thing if diluted, if you run nothing but 32-1 you may run a touch lean but it wont hurt the motor, that's all my lawn mower ever gets and it's quite old and still going strong.
I always end up mixing up too much gas for the saws or dirt bike and have mixed gas to spare lol.
4 minutes, no bs. but confirms a suspicion i had but never pursued cause "uniformity is simplicity"
This is why my whole stable gets the best T6 that Rotella has to offer
Yup! 75k on T6 with zero issues. Engine purs like a kitten since day one. DL650 suzuki here. Will never pay for the overprices motul stuff.
Very well said!
That Ecstar kit does the trick for me. Quick and easy
Glad to see my oil of choice on that work table, Mobil 1 racing 4T
some said mixing 10% with cooking / frying oil also makes it better.
Thanks
Great editing
I use good synthetic motorcycle oil, but I've always topped off with whatever I could find on the road - synthetic or otherwise - as long as it is motorcycle oil. I have even had to use different viscocities, as long as they were in the correct range for the bike, though I know doing this creates an all new viscosity somewhere in between, which I assume would still be in the range required for the bike.
Well done
Always peeps fighting over brands… I just reply clean oil is better than dirty oil
I mixed them from time to time, without any problem.
I've been doing this for years, but never told anyone :) I prefer Belray, just seems to spin up better. thanks
Each oil has additive packages to protect the engine. Better additive package will be better protection during high loads/stress. But its always better to replace old oil with clean oil. But it needs to meet the specs or above those specs. Motorcycle oil needs a specific friction modifier for the wet clutch. So avoid any non motorcycle oils :D
Penrite synthetic Mc4 ST has been excellent in my bikes.
I generally run the oil the manufacturer suggests. I figure if that’s the oil they tested the engine with and they trust it enough to recommend it, then it’s good enough for me.
Well, my brother filled up his KLR with a mixture of nearly-empty bottles a few days a go. It initially went foamy and beige in the site glass. That was enough of a concern to drain it back out and go buy a fresh bottle. It came out black, having gone in gold a few hours before.
It hasn't skipped a beat since but I doubt he'll be do it again.
I'm guessing that moisture got in bottles. I've experienced a milkshake in a bike after it was brought out of winter storage. Running it at idle till up to temperature vented the moisture my mechanic has experienced it with many of his customers bikes. He has changed my mind about changing oil before winter storage to changing first thing in the spring. I've owned many Harleys that I've riden over 50k before selling with no issues.
@@JohnCunningham-sy5ug That sounds a bit like brake pads on mountain bikes. You don't change them once a year, you change them once a winter. In the dry they last for years, but when there's wet grit flying into them, they disappear in a couple of months.
There is an additive that can "drain" the last few mils of oil down the drain hole, which then you can add up your favorite in a pinch. That additive isn't new or old, so you can do it yourself when changing oil at your garage.
Just pour the recommended amount into your tank with engine running for 5min, then drain the rest of it. It ain't perfect, but just one of many solutions if you prefer.
What is this additive called? I'm dying to do this--my fresh oil always turns very dark seconds after starting the engine. Considering doing a few changes in a row, but an additive would be MUCH cheaper.
@@TravisTerrell ah yeah now that you are asking, it's just engine flush (or oil system cleaner, watever). There are types for pouring directly into gas tanks or via oil port. I used the former one for years now.
Purchase online and pour the recommended amount into your tank (may vary per tank's volume) or the oil port (also vary per bike's oil volume, 1.1L or 1.5L requires 50-80ml of that additive). Then run the engine for 5-10min (check the manual) and drain the oil as usual.
Not 'till the last drop, though, but changing with new oil would be much better. If your bike has maintenance at any dealer, you may have seen one of those additive being used. Cars, too.
I was hoping for more info I coulda googled this.
Since you can find blends on the shelf, I'm not sure why this is even a question.
Ari, you are a walking and talking shop manual bro.
Thank you for existing!
I’ve learned that my bikes tend to consume oil on Touring trips. I now carry my oil in small quantities with me for top off.
I have old bikes,like '92,'95 and '95. A motul like they say,the best(wich I don't believ) cost 3 time like normal oils for cars! So I was buying Castrol edge for cars and mixed with around 150-200grams of automatic gear oil that remains from my car! It runs perfect,changing gears smooth!
Castrol Edge is the good stuff. I happen to also to try Castrol Magnatec on my SX4 Scorpio daily rider, and it runs perfectly fine. no clutch slips, burn in, or any of those suspect of using car oil on motorcycles. In fact with the exception of the wallet-drilling Motuls and Ipones, this pretty much make many of the cheap moto oils sold in my area obsolete.
the rule of thumb is as long as you're not using the thinner, Eco-conserving oils for your bike, you should be fine. From my experience, the absolute minimum for the viscosity level is 5W-40. You can get away with the 5W-30 but make sure that your clutch is in perfect condition and that oil has ACEA A3/B4 certification on it.
or, just be easy and use something like Amsoil.
"A motul like they say,the best(wich I don't believ) " - quality, but ordinary oils from ordinary blender. Nothing special about them. Got their asses kicked in Germany few years ago and removed "Full sythetic" off the labels.
@@AudriusN I avoid their 3xxx and 5xxx series like a plague because they are not worth the price. With that kind of money I can buy something like Liqui Moly's Leitchlauf (the old gray bottle one), Street, Fuchs Silikolene 4T, or Ravenol TSI(with the exception of LM Street, they are all passenger car motor oils that happens to work like magic on bikes), which are vastly superior and have longer drain intervals (both can reach up to 7000-8000 km every drain).
PBS has been funded by viewers like you. THANK YOU !
I do mix oiks sometimes, but generally avoid it.
However, big issue comes with 2 stroke oil. Mineral based and castor based oils WILL react badly with each other.
Only other time i have known oils react was my father having issues with differential oil in a car. Where the residue and the new oil seemed to react and form a lumpy mess.
Summs it up perfect; any oil is better than none/not enough (with the asterisk saying that may not be true if you use olive oil, lamp oil, whale oil, ect) but that it is best case scenario when its all the same thing going into your crankcase.
Im pretty sure you can add cooking oils to low engine oil and it wont destroy the engine that fast. It will, after a little time. But in case of emergency, ya any oil is better then *not enough* oil. Im saying mixed with low oil already in the car.
@@skie6282 There's a few channels that have done the cooking oil thing, I don't recall it ending well. It's something I would do to get myself out of a life or death situation, but I'd rather take a walk and find something suitable for an engine.
I enjoyed it all
@RevZilla tell your IT guys to have an option on the website to filter between conventional and synthetic oil.
Done it for years, works fine. Used the cheapest oil i can find for years, works fine.
Like they say the cheap oil now is still better than the oil from 30 years ago
There is one problem, and that is mixing vegetable based oil like old fashioned Castrol R with mineral oil that will cause an emulsion.
Some oils are better than others. But I can't tell you which. The W part is a cold temp flow so putting a 20(lol) W into a 0W and try to drive at below 0 C, then you might kill you engine due to cavitation and gel formation.
I like to put a little coolant in there to keep it cool....
Mixed 3/4 honda 10w30 commercial oil with 1/4 Valviline conventional 5w30 changing the oil. Put in a subaru lawn mower. Runs like a banshee!
I did this with mine and it still run like brand-new till today since 2017. Enoc semi 20w 40 was mixed with Motul 10w 40 Ester. It was alright, I didn't have enough Motul that day and had to do drastic measures..
Great job Mate although it’s funny how things have changed. I remember as a kid many many moons ago oils never came in plastic bottles but instead you’d got fill up at the servo check your oil and you could get oil from glass bottles the servo provided and refilled daily. Here in Australia back then you also never had the variety in grades or oil companies we see today neither. Anyway love your work. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Back in the day I can buy oil in bulk from oil drums at the oil store too. still to this day I think. I can just mention the volume I need and the shop clerk will fill it for me, then I pay it. No questions asked.
speaking of mixed oil, I find one interesting brand from Down Under who formulated oil for both cars and bikes, and I find it fascinating in this era of oils being very specialized: Penrite. Not only they marketed as both, but the good thing is that the oil is actually good stuff!
@@sx4mania35 I’ve actually used Penrite oil quite a bit with my Commodore Ute before I got rid of it and just so you know back in the day for me was about 50 years ago and the most popular oil where I lived was Castrol. Living in the bush we never saw Penrite
@@sx4mania35 you can buy Penrite oil here today still in 20 litre or 21 quart drums which is handy when you use 6.5 litres or 6.8 quarts every 5000kms or 3100miles at oil change time. 😉😉😉 Bloody V6 Chev motors
@@davegoldspink5354 That's nice to
hear. I've seen several old holdens here in my hometown, and if they haven't restored, they are either just sit in a shed or an empty parking ground, or ran poorly. seen one with the V8 but not running.
Penrite is sold here in either 1 litre bottle or a 5 litre jug because most of the cars that used it here have 5+ L capacity. does not hurt that a lot of bikes uses around 1 litre on oil changes (most bikes sold here are under 250 ccs so their crankcase sizes are rather small)
@@sx4mania35 where are you?
I have a blend I invented gives me 15 - 20 extra miles per gallon and runs great
per manual, my bike takes two weights of oil depending on the season. the manual says oil capacity is 3.2L w/ filter removed and 3.8L engine rebuilt.
so from cold to hot season about 1/2L of 10w-40 gets mixed with 3L of 20w-50.
the manual doesn't mention siphoning out the "winter oil" and they've been making my engine for almost 2 decades, so... :)
Cool! What engine is that?
@@Abdal-RahmanI v-twin, injection, water cooled, 900cc