Kevin Jorgeson - One-Hand Dyno on The Groove, E11 Second Ascent
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Kevin Jorgeson on the 2nd ascent of one of England's hard traditional routes, The Groove, E11. From the feature documentary PROGRESSION. Rent or Download here: reelrocktour.c...
The look he gives the belayer is priceless
he never actually sent the groove, big up productions edited to make it look like he did but he never got through the second crux which he said on his blog was 'completely impossible' on his blog. He actually got through the first crux and traversed right one of the cracks and around it.
I think its a little naughty of big up
And then he claimed to downgrade it, when he didn't even f ing climb it.
1:32 "What I am doing trusting my life to HIM."
the look on kevin's face is even better, like "did I actually just trust you to belay me on this runout, impossible, E11?"
3:18 that noise euggghh
show this guy how to belay pls
It looks like an amazing road with this long long slap. Very nice nice nice
" let me just grab this pebble"
3:32 " I basically just cirumsized my finger" haha man he cracked me up
I love the way the guy is like "No dude no!" in a high pitched voice after he "rips his finger off."
hahah love grimer at the end there ! hehee nice work lads !
First time the belayer had gone climbing, true story
From the top, he'd hit the ground. This style of climbing on gritstone is famous for its insecure movements and the high degree of risk if you fall from the wrong place. The E11 rating is not just due to difficulty of the climb, but the danger from falling.
how could he possibly hold on to that freaking small thing!!!
"oooohhh - The Gritstone bites back today?
F'cking Bastard!"
Priceless
IF U CLIMB AND HAVE NOT SEEN THIS U HAVE TO WATCH IT. AMAZING
caps4life yo
Excellent!
thanks bro
holy shiznizzle! the finger nubs are insane!!!
some awesome climbing and a nice looking finger rip too lol gd stuff guys
0_o He was definitely cranking off that slap at 1:58. That hold was for sure bigger than 90 degrees and he's just sitting there absolutely crushing it.
@iwasmexican the song is from Grand National - Going to switch the Lights on
3:17 i doubt i was the only person that stared at the scream in horror for that guy.
so good
That's not the full route, he only did the start (1st Crux) and then finished up Fern Hill (E2) = no tick
ha 1:30
the look on his face is like "wow am i going to put my life in your crappy belaying hands
I like how he can grip something about the size of a pimple.
soooo small holds, omg!! BIG UP!!
Man this level of climbing is god mode...
@franzschneckenbauer thank you very much
I actually felt that too.
very nice... i guess its time to stop putting off buying the DVD;)
10 years ago. Wow
That's some spiderman shit right there...
Superhuman!
"noo dude noo" :o
This is done in situations where if the belayer was just standing by the wall with no extra slack and the climber fell they would hit the floor before the rope goes tight. If, however, the belayer can move quickly and get a few metres out quickly enough a ground fall can be avoided. To not have the slack in the system at all the belayer would have to be off the ground ;)
Nuts !
@Shreddzilla look on the bigup homepage there is a list with all the songs from the movie try to find it there
what is the song at the very opening
?
what a fucking beast, he gripped and dominated the bird shit on the wall
@lightspeed82 yeah it probably had nothing to do with the fact that he's a professional climber who makes a good portion of his living from climbing and that wound prevents him from doing so, or the fact that because of it he had to wait even longer to send his project in bishop.
I’ve seen some ridiculously small holds, but he’s holding onto stuff the size of a pinhead.
2:00 what the frig did he just grip?! a pinch the size of a kidney bean!
One hand dyno one hand belay
Amazing and his finger injury is discussing
Amon Tobin - Always
The idea is that if he falls the belayer moves away from the wall as quickly as possible to try and take away another metre or so of slack. Yeah this may pull the belayer quite awkwardly, but could save the climbers life.
What a flapper! That hurt me watching it.
You can't really translate E grades into other grading systems as the idea behind them is that everything is taken into account when a route is graded. The difficulty; how hard it is to place gear; how exposed and committing a route is all plays a role. Some routes have low grades but are technically difficult as theyre very safe to climb.
This is so fucking cool.
....wasn't the title of this video different a few days ago?
I really would love to know the name of the Song bigup!
let me switch the lights on by Grand National
he skipped the second crux.
what is the name for the first song??
it does look it but the grit is so much more grippy that the holds look terrible but are way better then if it was on limestone, hard scary stuff but not as physically demanding as some of the stuff they do
min 2:28, bad belaying technique, quite dangerous
Alberto Casanova He's using a grigri, so that's not as bad as it seems. Should probably still have both hands on tho, but jus' sayin'.
Alberto Casanova I saw a guy falling 20 meters because the belayer was using the grigri like that
It's exactly as bad as it seems. You never let go of the loose end of the rope no matter which belay device you're using. Petzl have made instructional videos for the GRIGRI in which they explicitly, over and over again repeat that whatever you're doing you keep that hand on the rope at all times. I'm sure it's mentioned at least a few times in the instruction manual as well.
There is literally a life on the line, you don't mess around with this shit. For once in your life, read the fucking manual.
I'm pretty sure it's just a joke
It is bad, if climber sits down on the rope instead of clean fall, grigri might not lock. We tested it out in our climbing gym and there have been really bad accidents while belaying like that.
it's all feet. he's literally pushing 99% from his left foot. the nipple in his right hand is just to hold himself on and give a little extra direction to his push. regardless, he pretty much gave that rock the hardest nipple pinch this world has ever seen
Holy shit!
anyone know what the song is when hes actually climbing it...?
3:32 i died holy shit
I feel like ripping his tip was grit karma for trying to claim an ascent of the groove
Where is this it looks like the Peak District ...?
@odum1002
what hes holding on to is your awwww, and thats about it. i 100% garantee you that "hold" does little more then mentally assure your ballance and make people think your an awesome climber.
ive never seen holds that small
look how young Alex honnold is
Did anyone else at 2:00 go, "wait, there's no way he just pulled up on that little jib." Then subsequently at 2:11 your confusion was confirmed, and you were just like, "what in the fuck is that. that's fucking ridiculous." Then your confusion was remedied at 3:18 when reality kicked in.
Yes but it's mainly for balance
does he know how to use a grigri (hint: lift the lever)
how does the E grading system translate into other ones?
It’s like this mate: on limestone it’s E for effort. On gritstone, it’s E for extermination.
@Pepavalenzuelacorrea Amon Tobin - Always (0:07 - 0:11)
Muscle power
Ouch!!
lol if he falls the belayer will pe pulled horizontally towards the wall.. he will fall and maybe get hurt..
is this real? is that hold possible. why would you even grade that
song?
3:19 when I heard that, I grabbed my finger and squeezed it
He didn't pull himself up by grabbing a nipple of rock, he's using his leg plus the rock climbing shoes gave him the an excellent friction to withstand himself on the rock. By grabbing the rock it just to give him the stability. Overall I learned a few technique by watching this vid tho. This vid is great make an episode 2 already.
That flapper will heal up perfectly - i speak from experience when I did 3 finger pads worse than that in the vid and all in one go and got pretty smashed up in the process - thing is though I wasn't climbing - I was trying to stop a sheet of steel weighing about 1/2 ton and literally had my fingers trapped between the steel and my knee that was supporting the weight I had to rip them out and lucky for me the heals on my trainers was strong enough to stop my ankle getting smashed too...
Anyway - well done on the attempt :-)
i feel like an E11 on there rating system is like a 5.50 on the yosemite rating system!
whats the music that starts at 1:31 ?
czcams.com/video/UaEFuFypKcQ/video.html
3:47 ducktape over fingertape
my god! tiny jibs! AAAAAH
Oh man i just open my mouth 10-15 secs after that rip on the finger ...3:16 aaauggh
wouldn't wanna get a purple nurple from that guy 2:12
he went the wrong way at the top, back around youth.
"i just circumcised my finger"
OUCH!
OUCH
1:32 "you set it up wrong?"
Belay was sketch.
looks way harder than something sharma or ondra has ever done
Dang it, I'm a big pansy ! ha ha ! I had shivers when he slashed his finger ! Makes me wonder if any climbers are doing finger toughening exercises, like martial art type stuff....like to toughen the skin actually.
The red guy is Alex Honnold, the amazing soloist. !
Absurdly small holds.
1:58 are you serious?
what holds... i don't see anything
I like the guy who secures him ;-). I would not go outside climbing with that partner. Standing away a couple of meters from the wall and he doesnt even know how the belay device works ;-). How can he climb up without feeling unsecure ;-)
fuckin hell, ouch
nice 3:19