Your hyperlapse video quality (final product - night hyperlapse) is one of the best i have seen in youtube. Your tutorial process, explanation and tips are very good as well. Keep sharing your knowledge, i cant wait to see more!
Honestly my most favorite part of the workflow. I can NOT WAIT! to drop that SD card in, offload, and open Lightroom. Getting things just right is what I believe I truly live for. Thank you Blue Mantle Films, I've always enjoyed the style in which you explain. The coloring, editing and composition of your vlogs or tutorials far surpassed decent and straight onto unique. Everyone does the same things all following this sort of guidelines to basically - DAMN IM SO BORED! . You made it ALL your own and I really dig that about you. Keep this up and you'll hit the numbers you've always wanted.
I bought and learned LRTimelapse when I was working on my Pinnacles National Park time lapse video, and I do like that program, particularly when it's necessary to keyframe the metadata, but overall if I'm able to use fewer programs, I prefer to do that.
Your tutorials are tightly edited, on point, with excellent use of screen recording to illustrate the process. Your Lightroom process is pretty solid and yes, the LR Timelapse process is a whole other level. I was surprised with the mixed clouds you didn’t get a lot of flicker in the sequence, which would necessitate the LR Timelapse workflow. Flicker has been a real pain with so many of my older timelapse efforts. But DaVinci Resolve has a deflicker timelapse that works really well with a lot less effort than LRT.
Exactly what I was looking for. I love the Hyperlapse feature and had a few turn out amazing right out of the drone, but most needed something else. I tried editing in Premier, but it just wasn't enough. Now that I know how to manage the RAW files and turn those back into video on my own, I can revisit some of the hyperlapses I wrote off as "no good" and see if they can be salvaged. Thank you so much!
Tip: if you have your photos in lightroom and you pres E and scroll fast through your photos you will actually see how you hyperlapse kind of looks like.
Got one of these for the family business and these tutorials are awesome. Thanks! Question though, I can't do Waypoint Hyperlapse. It keeps telling me the camera orientation changed to much so I can't do a second waypoint and finish it. Any ideas?
Thank you for at fantastic tutorial. I have a question out of context hope its okay. I think I´ll sell my inspire 1 for magic 2 pro or zoom after seeing your footage and grading. Great job by the way!! Do you think the magic is usable for more professionel work too? I think depth and...?
Hello! Great content on your channel, congratulations !!! I also have a Mavic 2 Pro and would like to know what settings you use to shoot at night. Thank you
Great instructions on post process for time lapse! Thank you!!! I am confused by one thing . . there is a 5 second limit on RAW photos in Litchi app. Is there a way around this? Can I do a time lapse using a 5 second interval? I prefer to stay with Litchi because you can do a flight plan with way points, POI, etc. and virtually execute it in Google Earth. My drone is Mavic Pro 2. Just got it. I am very comfortable with lightroom, but completely new to Premier Pro, steep learning curve. Thank you in advance for replying to this question regarding the 5 sec. limit.
Really enjoyed your hyperlapses. Such great quality. Are you or have you done anything with the Mavic 2 Zoom? Not as many settings as the Pro has to my knowlege but still perform pretty good. Seems like most folks focus only on the Pro.
I appreciate this tutorial because its very straightforward. Tonight, I tried shooting a Hyperlapse on M2PZoom and the drone failed to render the video. I got about 97 images before it froze. Can I use the DNG files or do I need to go through LR and output as JPGs first?
Hello. Great video. I came here because I saw your Miami video and was impressed by the hyperlapses in that video. I noticed your ISO on the night shot at 0:33 in this video is set to 1600. Is that something you typically do for night hyperlapses? How do you combat noise with the ISO being that high?
Great tutorial. Will Premiere process raw images if you were to save that out of Lightroom? That way your exposure ramp might retain more detail. Plus you look a bit like a younger Louie CK.
Hi, super interesting videos. Could you let us know what format/specs you use to export your timelapse as video for either stock footage or using it in a sequence ? The native images sequences from the jpg are really heavy to work with versus an outputted video of the timelapse. I'm trying to figure out a setting allowing me to export the timelapse as video for editing while keeping the best quality. Any advice on this point would be super appreciated. Thanks.
I use a JPG sequence until I'm done editing the full clip, but if I were to turn it into a video while still working on the sequence I'd use ProRes HQ 422, in the native resolution (so don't make it a 4K-only clip, because then it crops the top and bottom). Once I'm done doing all my edits (color, stabilization, etc.) I usually export the clips in ProRes 422, both at a full native resolution (5.6K), and a 4K resolution with the cropping that I want for it.
Don't watch my next video, then! That one will lose you for sure. :-) But in all seriousness, I'm sorry that I lost you. I try to make these tutorials engaging and keep them moving. I know when I'm watching a tutorial that I hate it when they drag on, so I make these tutorials in the way that I would want to consume tutorial content, and sometimes that means I move a bit fast. Hopefully if you watch it again and have the program open it'll make sense. But yes, be forewarned, the next video will likely lose you. I'm honestly geeking out a little bit as I edit it together because it's a really detailed and advanced tutorial. I hope to have it published within the next 24 hours.
Dude thank you so much for this! I also watched your tips on hyperlapses with the Mavic Pro 2/Zoom and have been trying to shoot them as often as possible. One thing I haven't seen brought up by anyone so far is AE lock--I'm assuming it should be locked to avoid flickering as a result of light metering changes?
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. If you're shooting in Manual mode (which I suggest in my hyperlapse tutorial specifically so that you can avoid flicker) then it will be locked by default since you manually control all of the settings and you set those settings before you started the hyperlapse. AE Lock is for when you're NOT shooting manually, but you want to lock exposure until you tell the app/drone that you don't want exposure to be locked anymore.
You're welcome. Question: would you be interested in a 'deep dive' into the post production process? I just finished editing a hyperlapse that I went into a lot of nitty gritties to make it look the way I wanted, and thankfully (I've learned the hard way by not doing this in the past) I was screen recording while I did it, so I'm planning on putting that together within the next few days. So if you're interested, please come back soon. :-)
Hey Matt, What computer do you use (or recommend) for these edits? Budget around $1500. Im shopping around for a laptop to supplement my aerial photography business.
Great video, very helpful! If you want to get serious about noise reduction consider a third party app like topaz denoise. It can be used as a plug in to Lightroom or as standalone software. Much more powerful than the lightroom noise reduction and great for low light photography.
Could you post your sequence settings in premiere by any chance? when i make a 4K suqeuence i've got black bars at the side and have to scale up. I'm guessing because I shot photos in 3:2 or you do that also? I followed this tutorial to create the hyperlapse i uploaded to youtube yesterday so thanks it helped a lot
I first make a sequence that’s exactly the same dimensions as the images by just dropping the image sequence onto the “new sequence” button in Premiere. That’s what I do any corrections and Warp Stabilizer on, so that I can have the highest resolution possible for that stage in the process. Then I put that into a 4K sequence (3840x2160) and downscale/crop it until I like the fit. I can go as low as 69% without losing resolution, if I want to use the full width of the image sequence, but other times I want to be able to play with the crop a bit, so I do something like 75% or 80% and then use the position attributes to move it around as I’d like. And I also sometimes keyframe the position, most specifically when I want to “tilt” the image up or down to see more of the top or bottom of the image.
Hey - i was totally impressed from your stability - its the best i've seen so is stabilizing in premier enough? i didn't follow exactly the changes you did there
Overall I've been impressed with how many of these clips can get by with just using Warp Stabilizer in Premiere for stabilization. I have learned that a big part of it is how the footage was shot...anytime the camera is expected to stay facing in one direction with only waypoints, for example, there's a lot of side-to-side movement, but if you give the drone some programed panning movement, it ends up being much more stable. There have been a few clips where Warp Stabilizer wasn't sufficient, and I'm actually working on a video right now (literally, I was editing it and then switched over to CZcams real quick to respond to comments, then I'll be going back to editing it) that goes into some advanced post processing techniques, including using After Effects for stabilization when Warp Stabilizer just won't cut it. So that should be out in the next day or two, so please come back for that.
thanks for your great tips sharing, i watch over and over again. may i ask, when i was shooting night hyperlapse, i set shutter at 1/4s as u suggest, then, i start to shoot hyperlapse, the shutter jump back to 1/30, way too dark, i get bunch of -EV raw photos, did i do something wrong? but how do i see your footage is so bright? u raise up the high iso? or shoot -EV, then add up EV at lightroom? thanks
This is a result/problem with the latest firmware...it used to be that you could set exposure below 1/30 and then go into hyperlapse mode and it would keep the shutter speed. They did away with that ability on the last firmware. If you're on an iOS device, there is a workaround by using the 5-direction joystick (if you're uncertain on that, check out my latest video, "How to change shutter speed for hyperlapses"). Using that method should give you the ability to still do long shutter speeds. Yeah, the night hyperlapses simply wouldn't be possible to this degree without being able to do long exposures. Even with long exposures I'm bumping the ISO up pretty high and have to do noise reduction. These shots would look terrible if I had to do this just with ISO rather than with long exposures.
Hi, did you have any tutorial for day night hiperlapse ? Because I have a MP2 and want to do it but still do not find any about it Thanks great tutorials you made!
@@RodrigoPolo Since he is creating his own hyperlapse from the raw files, he doesn't necessarily need to use the hyperlapse feature. In the camera settings, you can set it to take photos every 2 seconds (other durations available). Combine this with saved waypoints and you can recreate the same flight paths for a timelapse. That said, I need to try this!
Your hyperlapses are world class. I am blown away.. Now I have a Mac and a Mavic 2 PRO. I Will get lightroom. But I use FCP instead of Premier. How to make the timelapse? Can not LR compile and export the video? Would you rekommendera to LRT timelapse 5 PRO?
Lightroom can compile the video, as far as I know, but then I wouldn't be able to do stabilization. I'm not sure how FCP reads files, but I feel like there must be some option to import as an image sequence so that it is interpreted as a video file. If you'll be doing timelapses frequently then yes, I do recommend LRTimelapse. I bought a couple of years ago when I was shooting a lot of timelapses, and it's nice to have. When it's possible to edit without LRTimelapse I prefer that (fewer steps) but there are some things I can't do (such as keyframing the raw metadata) without it, so it's a good program.
You’re very talented!! Do you always export JPEG out of Lightroom? I can’t upload raw image stills into Premiere Pro so I started shooting JPEG. DNG is not supported for Premiere Pro from what I’ve read. Wondering how people get raw stills into Premiere.
I don't always export JPG, no. I've used TIF sometimes, which I don't think technically is "raw" (I don't know enough about it to know for sure, but I think I've heard TIF is a lossless format, but not raw....anyway). So, I have used TIF before, but I haven't noticed a significant difference in quality, but did notice a significant difference in performance. So it would take longer to load a TIF sequence, and especially to run Warp Stabilizer on it, and when I would export I didn't notice a bump in quality from the ones that I used just a JPG image sequence. So it didn't seem worth it to me..
Your tutorials have made learning for me easy and fun! Been flying for a few months now, and will be referring to your channel for everything. I do have quick question, I recently had my Zoom replaced with a protection plan so I'm basically still well within my return policy and I was considering swapping it for a M2 Pro instead, but I'm not quite sold on the improvement the Pro has compared to the Zoom. I am by no means a professional and love the results the Zoom has, but I see almost all of the drone pilots on CZcams using the Pro. Any input would be very appreciated! Cheers!
Thank you for the kind words on my videos! There has definitely been a positive response to these videos, so I hope to keep making them. To answer your question: to be honest, the M2P is not for everyone, and if you don't personally see the benefit of having the Pro, then in my mind that's the surest reason to not buy the Pro. The Zoom, from what I can see (I haven't used it myself) can make really good imagery when used well. The Pro can make better imagery when used well, but it also requires more work to get that better imagery. So for ANYONE who doesn't distinctly know that they want the Pro, my default is to suggest the Zoom. My hope for the next Mavic is that it incorporates the zoom feature of the Zoom with the sensor and color science of the Pro, giving us the best of both worlds. That might be too much to ask, but that's what I'm hoping for. In the meantime, for myself, the M2P is my favorite drone. But I still think that the M2Z is the right drone for many people.
@@BlueMantleFilms Thank you for the reply! I'm still learning composition, so I have to agree with you. The footage and cinematics I am still able to achieve with the Zoom definitely works for now. And maybe when I am ready to make the advancement, Dji will have incorporated the best of both worlds by then! Thank you again for your insight and the great content!
Excellent presentation. Why not do all the post in Premiere (or Avid)? Why use Lightroom, since the color corrector is so limited compared to say, Resolve, which has super color grading? Thanks for all the help!
For me: because I don't know how to use Resolve. I've heard really good things about it, so I want to learn it, but I just don't have the time to learn a new program right now. Does Resolve work with DNG sequences?
Not sure. But one can always convert the DNG to TIFF which is universal. I also use Avid wit the Ultimate option which has sophisticated color grading. Lightroom has simplistic color in comparison to Avid or Resolve. Just download Resolve and look at their color corrector and you can see just how good their tools are. It's free too for HD. 4k costs extra.
I haven't read all the comments to see if someone else suggested this, but did you happen to try the Match Total Exposure option in Lightroom balance the exposure across all the images? Great series BTW. I watch part 1, with the Mavic 2 Pro settings, every couple of months to remind myself the "right" way to take Hyperlapses.
I didn't know this feature existed. After digging into a little, it seems this only works to balance exposure changes due to changing camera settings. It seems like it basically calculates the change in stops of light based on the metadata concerning camera settings to match your selected frame to match. In this case, no settings change, just the natural lighting, so lightroom doesn't have anything to calculate from and no changes are made when attempting this method. I wish it worked though!
I'm not even sure what you mean by "full scale". Do you mean the actual native resolution (~5.6k)? If so, I process everything in the native resolution. So I use Lightroom (and sometimes Photoshop) to process the raw images at their full resolution, then when I'm working on the video side of things I work in a timeline (in Premiere) and/or a comp (in After Effects) that is the same resolution as the images. Then when I go to export, I export at the same resolution as the timeline. So the files end up being really big, but they maintain the full resolution that way.
Great video. In lightroom if you hold the option key and use the masking slider under the sharpening section you will be able to see what you're sharpening in your image so you can leave out the sky and your sky will have less noise this way rather than having to introduce as much noise reduction to your whole image with the luminance slider :-)
So I finally tried this this morning. Pretty cool, but I actually wish they also had the same masking option for noise reduction. I mostly want to reduce the grain in the otherwise-uniform-gradient sky, and I'm not as bothered by noise in high-detail areas. By following your suggestion I'm able to not re-introduce sharpening to the sky (which is good, obviously!) but do you know if there's a way to (easily, not by manually creating masks) mask the sky for noise reduction?
Blue Mantle Films only thing I could suggest for this is to use a gradient filter or adjustment brush and just brush the whole sky section and then you’ll have a noise reduction slider just for the brushed part of the photo. Not the easiest fix though but that’s the way I do it
A question more about the hyperlapse that the work flow How can u set a hyperlapse, and repeat the same travk at night, i cant find the function o mode maybe on history? Hope can you help with that dont see anithing else post a video on that type of shoot
I've gotten this question quite a bit on Facebook. Currently there's no way to save hyperlapses, but DJI has indicated they are going to add that feature to a future firmware update. In the meantime the way I've done it just by remembering and/or taking notes on where my waypoints were (including altitude) and then trying my best to setup the same waypoints when I would go back later. It has worked for me, but it's not perfect.
Hello, i have a question, how you shoot and make the transition between the sequence day and night during your hyperlapse ? Thanks for your answer . Mika
I would do some tests, but likely I'd use TIFFs since that's a lossless format and still works with Premiere. I don't think I can import DNGs into Premiere, otherwise I would consider that as well.
I’m a beginner so I hope this question make since. How do you edit video and save as stock footage/B-roll? Do you edit several at one time or edit single clips/sequences?
I do one clip at a time. When doing timelapses or hyperlapses I have a unique timeline for each clip, and export those. If I'm doing regular drone footage, usually I'll have a timeline with all of my clips from a particular shoot, and then I'll highlight the area I want to export (in Premiere it's called the "work area", I think) and then export just that, then move the work area to the next clip, and export that, and so forth and so on.
HELLO!!! ANY HELP? When i do timelapse with the DJI APP, they come out very stable, but at 1080p, so i saved the RAW files like you do, but when i load them into LRTimelapse or NHC VIDEOPAD, the video play jumpy!!! any hints??? why this do not happens with the video auto made by dji, but jumps when played in video software...... do you also get jumpy shots? Can you stabilize in LRTImelapse? I cannot install Adobe Premier because of lack of memory it wont run too well....
1. have you tried 'auto' exposure at sunset for when there is changes in light level over time? 2. what is your initial ppcc sequence setting, when importing the raw files? 3. 29.97 or 24 and why? thanks for the tutorial.
Checkered Flag Films I haven’t tried auto (I hate letting something else control my settings) but I have adjusted exposure in fast-changing light scenarios...you can use the 5-d joystick and top right scroll wheel to change exposure settings on-the-fly. Check out my advanced hyperlapse post processing to see about that.
Checkered Flag Films I import and finish as 29.97 for stock footage, but if I’m working on a more film-like project, such as our travel films, I interpret the footage as 24 and edit in that.
@@BlueMantleFilms thanks...when your importing the jpg into premiere pro cc...what is your sequence setting in ppcc? Just a quicktime 29.97 setting? I know what you mean about control over various settings.
@@checkeredflagfilms I don't set the sequence settings...I just have the preferences such that image sequences are imported as 29.97, then when I drag it on the the new sequence icon it creates a sequence with the same framerate and resolution as the image sequence. Since the timeline/sequence is essentially just a placeholder until I export I don't need to worry (at least I don't think I need to worry) about video settings (Quicktime, codecs, etc.) at this stage. When I go to export then I actually care about the settings, but even then not too much. I have some presets that I've made over the years (I actually can't even remember the settings I have on them) and I just use those for exporting.
Premier it's kinda expensive and I probably wouldn't use it very often. Can the hyperlapse be created in Final Cut Pro X? I have Lightroom and Photoshop already also.
So you can still follow this process for the Lightroom portion, and when you go to import into FCPX *I think* it imports as individual images rather than as an image sequence, so you'll need to set the still frame duration default to 1 frame (should be in Preferences or Settings), so then when you drop them on the timeline each image will be 1 frame long. Then *again, I think* you can select all the images and turn them into a compound clip, then use FCPX's stabilization.
Good tutorial man. I’m more of a photographer than a videographer, so I’d like a little more detailed explanation of the process in Pr. Some of the stuff you’re doing with warp, etc. would be nice to know how to apply to other videos if I knew exactly what and why you were doing (regarding the warping at the edges and whatever that 102 number you were talking about, etc.). I guess what I’m saying is that it assumes the viewer has used Pr extensively. With the new hyperlapse mode you’re going to be getting a lot of people like me who are extensively experienced with Lr and Ps and photography but want to use the hyperlapse mode of the Mavic 2 and need to obviously be using Premiere more. Maybe a little more pedantic in the explanations for Pr next time? Just my two cents.
Thanks for the feedback, and I'll try to keep that in mind. Generally I'd say my tutorials aren't geared toward those completely unfamiliar with a program, so I do cut corners sometimes. Sorry that I lost you for a portion of this one. Regarding the Auto Scale, basically when you use Warp Stabilizer, with the more it tries to smooth out the image, the more it also needs to scale the image so that you're not seeing the edges coming into the frame. The 102% is the scale that I try to stay at or under, because as that number gets bigger, it means Warp Stabilizer is pushing the image around more. This is more of a problem with wider lenses, and I haven't tested that percentage to see what's acceptable specifically with the Mavic 2 Pro with its 28mm equivalent focal length. I think you could probably get away with that percentage being higher, but I got used to trying to stick to 102% when working with some wider lenses.
Panasonic GH5 (it’s my workhorse! I’ve been shooting with it since it was released in April 2017) and a Voigtlander 10.5mm lens. Also had a Fiilex light kit for lighting this one. I still use the same camera and lens for most of my tutorials, but I now have a Godox SL-200w light - much stronger and has a bigger softbox, and I’ve also just gotten myself an external recorder, the Atomos Ninja 5. Just used that for my most recent video.
Any chance you can share you export settings for a small clip you would post to Instagram? Mine keep going out all wrong and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. They're either choppy, poor quality or somehow garbage.
How are are getting the day to night hyper-lapses seamlessly lined up? I was going to use waypoints but the app doesn't allow you to save them for replaying at different times of the day...
Making notes (mental and on my phone) about where I setup the waypoints...basically trying to line up the drone with some noticeable landmark on the map. Screenshots are great for this to reference where you had your waypoints set up. Also, you can access the flight logs and see it if you wanted. You would need to also take note of the altitude at each of the waypoints so that you get it the same. Eventually DJI is going to implement the ability to save waypoints, but as it is right now, I just do it manually.
Which drone are you using? Previous DJI drones had the 5-second interval limit if you wanted to shoot raw, but on the Mavic 2 it allows 2 seconds with raw.
I think you are using time lapse mode so it will keep raw as a saved file but if you go to choose interval 5 seconds then no raw format will be available I am using Mavic 2 now, thanks for your reply!
I don't quite follow. I was filming in hyperlapse mode (if that's what you meant by time lapse mode, then yes, I was) and it has the options to do 2, 3, 5, and many more intervals, and all of them allow saving both the drone-generated video file and the raw images that you can edit like in this video. The other method, which more closely mimics the way drone hyperlapses were made with older drones, such as the Mavic 1, is to use interval shooting rather than hyperlapse mode, and I think in that case the availability of raw is limited to either 5 or maybe even 10-second intervals.
Thanks very much for your reply! Actually I am using litchi interval shooting so there is no raw format for 2 seconds, I learned from you and will use hyperlapse mode. Your works are so beautiful !
How many seconds of hyperlapse you can do with one battery? In my opinion its not possible to do a 30 second hyperlapse. After filming 20 seconds of material my battery is on 20% and i have to land if i will not crash my Mavic 2.
Yeah, I think the longest I've gotten is 20 seconds also. In theory if I knew ahead of time what I wanted to do and wasn't trying to figure out the movement for the first 3-4 minutes of the flight, and if I used something like CourseLock instead of Waypoints, then I think I could get like a 22 second hyperlapse, but that would be pushing it, I'm sure.
The chance that someone could help me is less but I try my luck. When I do excatly the same process and render the video......l always have some unwanted black bars on the sides what do I wrong ?
Thanks! I've got a video coming out shortly that has a bunch of hyperlapses from around Miami. Pretty excited by what this drone can do if used properly.
Hey guys, I got a very annoying problem. For some reason the aspect ratio of my Hyperlapse is always 4:3 and I can not change it in the menu. It looks horrible and the footage is useless. What can I do?
I'd use a lossless format, rather than lossy. I haven't done a ton of research on which specific lossless format I'd want to use, but my first inclination is TIFF just because I'm familiar with it, so I'd probably go with that. But the file sizes are big and when trying to play them back as a video they were too processor-intensive for my computer. I've since upgraded my computers, but haven't done many hyperlapses lately, so haven't actually tried TIFF.
@@TheBanksFamily Let me know how it goes. I always prefer to maintain as much quality as possible through the process so that the finished result is as high of quality as possible, but sometimes tradeoffs (time vs. data storage vs. quality) are necessary. But with a fast-enough computer then "tradeoff" might be a relatively moot point.
If you're using a Mavic 2, the yes: POI is one of the hyperlapse modes. If you're using a different drone, and it has POI, and you can do interval shooting, then you should be able to combine the two and make a POI hyperlapse.
Actually syncing edits it's not the optimal way to apply changes as it does the exact same to every image in post, when you often need to see how the edits are applied based on each subtle change in light or exposure. This is done in the develop module by selecting all images in the tray (control A), turning on the AUTO SYNC button then as you making changes to the one image the relative changes will be applied to all the others.
I don't quite understand this. Does it essentially keyframe the differences so that the relative changes are mild/slow across the whole sequence? If not, I would be afraid that using edits that aren't consistent across the whole sequence would end up introducing flicker into the timelapse.
They are consistent and you can see the changes across the thumbnails. So if you are creating a series with increasing or decreasing light you can ensure the final scene wont be too dark or bright. However it is not graduating the changes like LRTimelapse.
I feel like I must be misunderstanding something. I just tried it on a sequence I'm editing, stayed in the develop module and selected all the images in the tray, then enabled Auto Sync, then did my edits to one photo at first, and it synced it exactly the same across all of them. This is definitely a faster method of editing (not needing to copy and paste settings) so that's good, but from your first comment it sounded like you were saying the syncing will affect the images differently depending on the subtle changes in the image.
I think he means you can preview any change you make across all the images. For example, you might end up rising the exposure on one photo and it looks terrible on another. Auto sync will mean you can see this straight away in the filmstrip at the bottom
@@luis21alba You could do some of it, yes. I know there's Lightroom for iPad, so that's easily doable. I also know there are a lot of different video editing apps, so you'd be covered there as well. The one thing I think that would be lacking from editing on the iPad (though I might be mistaken on this) would be robust video stabilization abilities. I'm not sure if there's an equivalent to Warp Stabilizer on any of the editing apps, and these hyperlapses pretty much always need stabilization in post.
It is, yes. I was pleasantly surprised by that, because I was assuming it would be the same, that you'd need to do a 5-second interval to be able to capture raw.
Do you mean for shooting or for exporting? Shooting is just at the native resolution of the sensor (~5,600 x ~3,700). For editing I edit in the native resolution, then once I’m completely done with edits I export two versions of my clips, one in the native resolution and one at 4K. This tutorial is supposed to be watched in conjunction with the broader hyperlapse tutorial I made, and in that one I mention exporting at native resolution and 4K.
The Lightroom part of this video is too long, compared to the Premiere portion. I would have liked to see more detailed explanation about what you did in Premiere. It is obvious you use Premiere a lot, and kind of asume that we all are following you. I will practice this right away, to see if it turns out right. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the feedback. I hadn't even realized the disproportionate time I spent between Lightroom and Premiere. Admittedly, overall my tutorial videos are often geared toward those who have a working knowledge of the programs. Anyway, I hope you were able to figure it out and get results you were happy with.
Yes, I have a friend that really knows Premiere, and he watched your video, and figured out hte way to do it. I thank you for this video. One way or the other, I learned something new throuh it!
sbcfilm Have you worked with raw files before? I always get significantly better results from my raw files than I do from the auto-generated video. But I’ve said many times: the point of this or any other tutorial I make isn’t to tell you you have to do it this way. It’s to show what I think is the way to get the best results possible. If you don’t care to get the best results possible, and want to just do something quick and easy, then speeding up video is fine (though inefficient since you’re recording 30fps and most of those frames will be thrown away).
Very nice, but way to fast...you go like crazy through the application not showing where to find all the options you use. But still very useful vdo, thank you.
Which part? What questions do you have and maybe I can answer them? I try to keep my videos moving along because I don't like watching slow tutorials. I know they're not for everyone (if you think this one was fast, don't watch my latest video!) but I hope there's still value in them for some people.
Blue Mantle Films I’ve don’t time lapse with Premier before but the not raw. I was able to I Import one photo but not the series in light room . I don’t know how you got that import button to come up. the one you used in your video. I attempted after effects. But some how am not getting it to render the full time lapse. Well the part be for the render if that make sents?
In lightroom it's a smidge faster to hit command-a while on the image you want to copy the settings for and then hit the sync button.
Awesome! See...I knew there were ways to improve. But you don't know what you don't know. Now I know. :-)
Your hyperlapse video quality (final product - night hyperlapse) is one of the best i have seen in youtube. Your tutorial process, explanation and tips are very good as well. Keep sharing your knowledge, i cant wait to see more!
Thank you. I'm glad it's helpful!
Blue Mantle Films agreed really appreciate your sharing!
Honestly my most favorite part of the workflow. I can NOT WAIT! to drop that SD card in, offload, and open Lightroom. Getting things just right is what I believe I truly live for. Thank you Blue Mantle Films, I've always enjoyed the style in which you explain. The coloring, editing and composition of your vlogs or tutorials far surpassed decent and straight onto unique. Everyone does the same things all following this sort of guidelines to basically - DAMN IM SO BORED! . You made it ALL your own and I really dig that about you. Keep this up and you'll hit the numbers you've always wanted.
Here's the follow-up! Let me know your thoughts.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great tutorials to start with hyperlapse!
You're welcome! I'm glad they're helpful for you.
Great tutorial , this video and the one on how to take hyperlapse on Mavic 2 are crystal clear !!! 😃👍 and th result is awesome
That was great and easy to follow along with, thanks!
Good stuff, very helpful, keep up the great videos.
Very good and detailed explanation. I also use LRTimelapse, but this workflow also works very well. Thanks for showing.
I bought and learned LRTimelapse when I was working on my Pinnacles National Park time lapse video, and I do like that program, particularly when it's necessary to keyframe the metadata, but overall if I'm able to use fewer programs, I prefer to do that.
Bro, I live in Sarasota and instantly recognized Marina Jack’s! That’s so cool that you came here for on your vacation.
Wow, subbed. Beautiful shots at the start and amazing explanation :)
Thanks man. This saved many timelapses for me.
You’re welcome!
thank you so much for this tutorial, it is very simple and helpful!
You’re welcome!
Your tutorials are tightly edited, on point, with excellent use of screen recording to illustrate the process. Your Lightroom process is pretty solid and yes, the LR Timelapse process is a whole other level. I was surprised with the mixed clouds you didn’t get a lot of flicker in the sequence, which would necessitate the LR Timelapse workflow. Flicker has been a real pain with so many of my older timelapse efforts. But DaVinci Resolve has a deflicker timelapse that works really well with a lot less effort than LRT.
Definitely subbed, thanks for all the useful tips, cheers 👌🏼
Awesome! Happy to have you here. :-)
Exactly what I was looking for. I love the Hyperlapse feature and had a few turn out amazing right out of the drone, but most needed something else. I tried editing in Premier, but it just wasn't enough. Now that I know how to manage the RAW files and turn those back into video on my own, I can revisit some of the hyperlapses I wrote off as "no good" and see if they can be salvaged. Thank you so much!
Awesome! Yes, A LOT can be salvaged from the hyperlapses so long as you did save the raw files!
Tip: if you have your photos in lightroom and you pres E and scroll fast through your photos you will actually see how you hyperlapse kind of looks like.
epic work dude!
Thanks for the great vid...very helpful.
You're welcome!
Great Video 👍🏿 Loved it
Great stuff, was hoping to see this soon!
Awesome! Yeah, it's been a busy week, but I was anxious to get this online.
my friend you are great! thank you for the tips thatws really helped for me :)
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Thank you very much for this video. I have managed to do it finally from raw photos. And it looks so much better then the one from drone.
I know, right? Isn't it crazy how much better it looks?
Yes it is a massive difference in quality. Thank you again for this lesson.
Keep killing it my dude...yeeeeeeeeeeee
Thanks! I’ve been so busy with working through a backlog of client projects, but I’m hoping to get back into YT videos very soon!
Thanks homie this helped me out
Great one! Left a sub! Keep it up!
Awesome!! Thank you for sharing! :)
You're welcome!
Got one of these for the family business and these tutorials are awesome. Thanks!
Question though, I can't do Waypoint Hyperlapse. It keeps telling me the camera orientation changed to much so I can't do a second waypoint and finish it. Any ideas?
Great tips! Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for at fantastic tutorial. I have a question out of context hope its okay. I think I´ll sell my inspire 1 for magic 2 pro or zoom after seeing your footage and grading. Great job by the way!! Do you think the magic is usable for more professionel work too? I think depth and...?
Great stuff mate!!!
Thanks, Erik!
Hello! Great content on your channel, congratulations !!! I also have a Mavic 2 Pro and would like to know what settings you use to shoot at night. Thank you
Great instructions on post process for time lapse! Thank you!!! I am confused by one thing . . there is a 5 second limit on RAW photos in Litchi app. Is there a way around this? Can I do a time lapse using a 5 second interval? I prefer to stay with Litchi because you can do a flight plan with way points, POI, etc. and virtually execute it in Google Earth. My drone is Mavic Pro 2. Just got it. I am very comfortable with lightroom, but completely new to Premier Pro, steep learning curve. Thank you in advance for replying to this question regarding the 5 sec. limit.
Really enjoyed your hyperlapses. Such great quality. Are you or have you done anything with the Mavic 2 Zoom? Not as many settings as the Pro has to my knowlege but still perform pretty good. Seems like most folks focus only on the Pro.
What version of lightroom do you have?
I appreciate this tutorial because its very straightforward. Tonight, I tried shooting a Hyperlapse on M2PZoom and the drone failed to render the video. I got about 97 images before it froze. Can I use the DNG files or do I need to go through LR and output as JPGs first?
Thank You for video
Hello. Great video. I came here because I saw your Miami video and was impressed by the hyperlapses in that video. I noticed your ISO on the night shot at 0:33 in this video is set to 1600. Is that something you typically do for night hyperlapses? How do you combat noise with the ISO being that high?
Great tutorial. Will Premiere process raw images if you were to save that out of Lightroom? That way your exposure ramp might retain more detail.
Plus you look a bit like a younger Louie CK.
Hi, super interesting videos. Could you let us know what format/specs you use to export your timelapse as video for either stock footage or using it in a sequence ? The native images sequences from the jpg are really heavy to work with versus an outputted video of the timelapse. I'm trying to figure out a setting allowing me to export the timelapse as video for editing while keeping the best quality. Any advice on this point would be super appreciated. Thanks.
I use a JPG sequence until I'm done editing the full clip, but if I were to turn it into a video while still working on the sequence I'd use ProRes HQ 422, in the native resolution (so don't make it a 4K-only clip, because then it crops the top and bottom). Once I'm done doing all my edits (color, stabilization, etc.) I usually export the clips in ProRes 422, both at a full native resolution (5.6K), and a 4K resolution with the cropping that I want for it.
Great stuff, definitely the best M2 hyperlspse tutorials out there. You lost me on the Lumetri key frames tho >_
Don't watch my next video, then! That one will lose you for sure. :-)
But in all seriousness, I'm sorry that I lost you. I try to make these tutorials engaging and keep them moving. I know when I'm watching a tutorial that I hate it when they drag on, so I make these tutorials in the way that I would want to consume tutorial content, and sometimes that means I move a bit fast. Hopefully if you watch it again and have the program open it'll make sense.
But yes, be forewarned, the next video will likely lose you. I'm honestly geeking out a little bit as I edit it together because it's a really detailed and advanced tutorial. I hope to have it published within the next 24 hours.
Dude thank you so much for this! I also watched your tips on hyperlapses with the Mavic Pro 2/Zoom and have been trying to shoot them as often as possible. One thing I haven't seen brought up by anyone so far is AE lock--I'm assuming it should be locked to avoid flickering as a result of light metering changes?
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful.
If you're shooting in Manual mode (which I suggest in my hyperlapse tutorial specifically so that you can avoid flicker) then it will be locked by default since you manually control all of the settings and you set those settings before you started the hyperlapse.
AE Lock is for when you're NOT shooting manually, but you want to lock exposure until you tell the app/drone that you don't want exposure to be locked anymore.
Should I set lens correction for Mavic 2 pro?
Thank you.
You're welcome. Question: would you be interested in a 'deep dive' into the post production process? I just finished editing a hyperlapse that I went into a lot of nitty gritties to make it look the way I wanted, and thankfully (I've learned the hard way by not doing this in the past) I was screen recording while I did it, so I'm planning on putting that together within the next few days. So if you're interested, please come back soon. :-)
Hey Matt, What computer do you use (or recommend) for these edits? Budget around $1500. Im shopping around for a laptop to supplement my aerial photography business.
Great video, very helpful! If you want to get serious about noise reduction consider a third party app like topaz denoise. It can be used as a plug in to Lightroom or as standalone software. Much more powerful than the lightroom noise reduction and great for low light photography.
Could you post your sequence settings in premiere by any chance? when i make a 4K suqeuence i've got black bars at the side and have to scale up. I'm guessing because I shot photos in 3:2 or you do that also? I followed this tutorial to create the hyperlapse i uploaded to youtube yesterday so thanks it helped a lot
I first make a sequence that’s exactly the same dimensions as the images by just dropping the image sequence onto the “new sequence” button in Premiere. That’s what I do any corrections and Warp Stabilizer on, so that I can have the highest resolution possible for that stage in the process. Then I put that into a 4K sequence (3840x2160) and downscale/crop it until I like the fit. I can go as low as 69% without losing resolution, if I want to use the full width of the image sequence, but other times I want to be able to play with the crop a bit, so I do something like 75% or 80% and then use the position attributes to move it around as I’d like. And I also sometimes keyframe the position, most specifically when I want to “tilt” the image up or down to see more of the top or bottom of the image.
Hey - i was totally impressed from your stability - its the best i've seen so is stabilizing in premier enough? i didn't follow exactly the changes you did there
Overall I've been impressed with how many of these clips can get by with just using Warp Stabilizer in Premiere for stabilization. I have learned that a big part of it is how the footage was shot...anytime the camera is expected to stay facing in one direction with only waypoints, for example, there's a lot of side-to-side movement, but if you give the drone some programed panning movement, it ends up being much more stable.
There have been a few clips where Warp Stabilizer wasn't sufficient, and I'm actually working on a video right now (literally, I was editing it and then switched over to CZcams real quick to respond to comments, then I'll be going back to editing it) that goes into some advanced post processing techniques, including using After Effects for stabilization when Warp Stabilizer just won't cut it. So that should be out in the next day or two, so please come back for that.
@@BlueMantleFilms thanks- maybe the complex movement helps to not notice the minor instability
Hi. What aspect ratio do you choose for the photo 16:9?
thanks for your great tips sharing, i watch over and over again.
may i ask, when i was shooting night hyperlapse, i set shutter at 1/4s as u suggest, then, i start to shoot hyperlapse, the shutter jump back to 1/30, way too dark, i get bunch of -EV raw photos, did i do something wrong? but how do i see your footage is so bright? u raise up the high iso? or shoot -EV, then add up EV at lightroom? thanks
This is a result/problem with the latest firmware...it used to be that you could set exposure below 1/30 and then go into hyperlapse mode and it would keep the shutter speed. They did away with that ability on the last firmware. If you're on an iOS device, there is a workaround by using the 5-direction joystick (if you're uncertain on that, check out my latest video, "How to change shutter speed for hyperlapses"). Using that method should give you the ability to still do long shutter speeds.
Yeah, the night hyperlapses simply wouldn't be possible to this degree without being able to do long exposures. Even with long exposures I'm bumping the ISO up pretty high and have to do noise reduction. These shots would look terrible if I had to do this just with ISO rather than with long exposures.
@@BlueMantleFilms got it, i will go learn from it, thanks for ur answer sharing..
Hi, did you have any tutorial for day night hiperlapse ? Because I have a MP2 and want to do it but still do not find any about it
Thanks great tutorials you made!
I have the same question, how did he managed to repeat the exact same path?
@@RodrigoPolo Since he is creating his own hyperlapse from the raw files, he doesn't necessarily need to use the hyperlapse feature. In the camera settings, you can set it to take photos every 2 seconds (other durations available). Combine this with saved waypoints and you can recreate the same flight paths for a timelapse. That said, I need to try this!
@@RodrigoPolo using way point
What Adobe package did you purchase for post?
Your hyperlapses are world class. I am blown away.. Now I have a Mac and a Mavic 2 PRO. I Will get lightroom. But I use FCP instead of Premier. How to make the timelapse? Can not LR compile and export the video? Would you rekommendera to LRT timelapse 5 PRO?
Lightroom can compile the video, as far as I know, but then I wouldn't be able to do stabilization. I'm not sure how FCP reads files, but I feel like there must be some option to import as an image sequence so that it is interpreted as a video file.
If you'll be doing timelapses frequently then yes, I do recommend LRTimelapse. I bought a couple of years ago when I was shooting a lot of timelapses, and it's nice to have. When it's possible to edit without LRTimelapse I prefer that (fewer steps) but there are some things I can't do (such as keyframing the raw metadata) without it, so it's a good program.
You’re very talented!!
Do you always export JPEG out of Lightroom? I can’t upload raw image stills into Premiere Pro so I started shooting JPEG. DNG is not supported for Premiere Pro from what I’ve read.
Wondering how people get raw stills into Premiere.
I don't always export JPG, no. I've used TIF sometimes, which I don't think technically is "raw" (I don't know enough about it to know for sure, but I think I've heard TIF is a lossless format, but not raw....anyway). So, I have used TIF before, but I haven't noticed a significant difference in quality, but did notice a significant difference in performance. So it would take longer to load a TIF sequence, and especially to run Warp Stabilizer on it, and when I would export I didn't notice a bump in quality from the ones that I used just a JPG image sequence. So it didn't seem worth it to me..
Your tutorials have made learning for me easy and fun! Been flying for a few months now, and will be referring to your channel for everything. I do have quick question, I recently had my Zoom replaced with a protection plan so I'm basically still well within my return policy and I was considering swapping it for a M2 Pro instead, but I'm not quite sold on the improvement the Pro has compared to the Zoom. I am by no means a professional and love the results the Zoom has, but I see almost all of the drone pilots on CZcams using the Pro. Any input would be very appreciated! Cheers!
Thank you for the kind words on my videos! There has definitely been a positive response to these videos, so I hope to keep making them.
To answer your question: to be honest, the M2P is not for everyone, and if you don't personally see the benefit of having the Pro, then in my mind that's the surest reason to not buy the Pro. The Zoom, from what I can see (I haven't used it myself) can make really good imagery when used well. The Pro can make better imagery when used well, but it also requires more work to get that better imagery. So for ANYONE who doesn't distinctly know that they want the Pro, my default is to suggest the Zoom.
My hope for the next Mavic is that it incorporates the zoom feature of the Zoom with the sensor and color science of the Pro, giving us the best of both worlds. That might be too much to ask, but that's what I'm hoping for. In the meantime, for myself, the M2P is my favorite drone. But I still think that the M2Z is the right drone for many people.
@@BlueMantleFilms Thank you for the reply! I'm still learning composition, so I have to agree with you. The footage and cinematics I am still able to achieve with the Zoom definitely works for now. And maybe when I am ready to make the advancement, Dji will have incorporated the best of both worlds by then! Thank you again for your insight and the great content!
What are your export settings for hyperlapses?
Excellent presentation. Why not do all the post in Premiere (or Avid)? Why use Lightroom, since the color corrector is so limited compared to say, Resolve, which has super color grading? Thanks for all the help!
For me: because I don't know how to use Resolve. I've heard really good things about it, so I want to learn it, but I just don't have the time to learn a new program right now.
Does Resolve work with DNG sequences?
Not sure. But one can always convert the DNG to TIFF which is universal. I also use Avid wit the Ultimate option which has sophisticated color grading. Lightroom has simplistic color in comparison to Avid or Resolve. Just download Resolve and look at their color corrector and you can see just how good their tools are. It's free too for HD. 4k costs extra.
I haven't read all the comments to see if someone else suggested this, but did you happen to try the Match Total Exposure option in Lightroom balance the exposure across all the images?
Great series BTW. I watch part 1, with the Mavic 2 Pro settings, every couple of months to remind myself the "right" way to take Hyperlapses.
I didn't know this feature existed. After digging into a little, it seems this only works to balance exposure changes due to changing camera settings. It seems like it basically calculates the change in stops of light based on the metadata concerning camera settings to match your selected frame to match. In this case, no settings change, just the natural lighting, so lightroom doesn't have anything to calculate from and no changes are made when attempting this method. I wish it worked though!
Tx for the video, i have a question how make de video full scale?
I'm not even sure what you mean by "full scale". Do you mean the actual native resolution (~5.6k)? If so, I process everything in the native resolution. So I use Lightroom (and sometimes Photoshop) to process the raw images at their full resolution, then when I'm working on the video side of things I work in a timeline (in Premiere) and/or a comp (in After Effects) that is the same resolution as the images. Then when I go to export, I export at the same resolution as the timeline. So the files end up being really big, but they maintain the full resolution that way.
Great video. In lightroom if you hold the option key and use the masking slider under the sharpening section you will be able to see what you're sharpening in your image so you can leave out the sky and your sky will have less noise this way rather than having to introduce as much noise reduction to your whole image with the luminance slider :-)
So I finally tried this this morning. Pretty cool, but I actually wish they also had the same masking option for noise reduction. I mostly want to reduce the grain in the otherwise-uniform-gradient sky, and I'm not as bothered by noise in high-detail areas. By following your suggestion I'm able to not re-introduce sharpening to the sky (which is good, obviously!) but do you know if there's a way to (easily, not by manually creating masks) mask the sky for noise reduction?
Blue Mantle Films only thing I could suggest for this is to use a gradient filter or adjustment brush and just brush the whole sky section and then you’ll have a noise reduction slider just for the brushed part of the photo. Not the easiest fix though but that’s the way I do it
A question more about the hyperlapse that the work flow
How can u set a hyperlapse, and repeat the same travk at night, i cant find the function o mode maybe on history?
Hope can you help with that dont see anithing else post a video on that type of shoot
I've gotten this question quite a bit on Facebook. Currently there's no way to save hyperlapses, but DJI has indicated they are going to add that feature to a future firmware update. In the meantime the way I've done it just by remembering and/or taking notes on where my waypoints were (including altitude) and then trying my best to setup the same waypoints when I would go back later. It has worked for me, but it's not perfect.
I don't know light-room, but considered learning it. What do you use to post process still photos?
I use Lightroom for still photos also (and technically these hyperlapses are just a series of still photos), but I don't do stills very often.
Hello, i have a question, how you shoot and make the transition between the sequence day and night during your hyperlapse ? Thanks for your answer . Mika
quick question what would you export as if you had a faster computer? thanks for the tutorial excellent :)
I would do some tests, but likely I'd use TIFFs since that's a lossless format and still works with Premiere. I don't think I can import DNGs into Premiere, otherwise I would consider that as well.
Fantastic thankyou for the quick reply :D
Just realized this is Sarasota. Nice town
I’m a beginner so I hope this question make since. How do you edit video and save as stock footage/B-roll? Do you edit several at one time or edit single clips/sequences?
I do one clip at a time. When doing timelapses or hyperlapses I have a unique timeline for each clip, and export those. If I'm doing regular drone footage, usually I'll have a timeline with all of my clips from a particular shoot, and then I'll highlight the area I want to export (in Premiere it's called the "work area", I think) and then export just that, then move the work area to the next clip, and export that, and so forth and so on.
Hi. Try rendering two jpeg sequences and cross fade. 1 dark, 1 bright.
HELLO!!! ANY HELP? When i do timelapse with the DJI APP, they come out very stable, but at 1080p, so i saved the RAW files like you do, but when i load them into LRTimelapse or NHC VIDEOPAD, the video play jumpy!!! any hints??? why this do not happens with the video auto made by dji, but jumps when played in video software...... do you also get jumpy shots? Can you stabilize in LRTImelapse? I cannot install Adobe Premier because of lack of memory it wont run too well....
1. have you tried 'auto' exposure at sunset for when there is changes in light level over time? 2. what is your initial ppcc sequence setting, when importing the raw files? 3. 29.97 or 24 and why? thanks for the tutorial.
Checkered Flag Films I haven’t tried auto (I hate letting something else control my settings) but I have adjusted exposure in fast-changing light scenarios...you can use the 5-d joystick and top right scroll wheel to change exposure settings on-the-fly. Check out my advanced hyperlapse post processing to see about that.
Checkered Flag Films I import and finish as 29.97 for stock footage, but if I’m working on a more film-like project, such as our travel films, I interpret the footage as 24 and edit in that.
@@BlueMantleFilms thanks...when your importing the jpg into premiere pro cc...what is your sequence setting in ppcc? Just a quicktime 29.97 setting? I know what you mean about control over various settings.
@@checkeredflagfilms I don't set the sequence settings...I just have the preferences such that image sequences are imported as 29.97, then when I drag it on the the new sequence icon it creates a sequence with the same framerate and resolution as the image sequence. Since the timeline/sequence is essentially just a placeholder until I export I don't need to worry (at least I don't think I need to worry) about video settings (Quicktime, codecs, etc.) at this stage. When I go to export then I actually care about the settings, but even then not too much. I have some presets that I've made over the years (I actually can't even remember the settings I have on them) and I just use those for exporting.
Premier it's kinda expensive and I probably wouldn't use it very often. Can the hyperlapse be created in Final Cut Pro X? I have Lightroom and Photoshop already also.
So you can still follow this process for the Lightroom portion, and when you go to import into FCPX *I think* it imports as individual images rather than as an image sequence, so you'll need to set the still frame duration default to 1 frame (should be in Preferences or Settings), so then when you drop them on the timeline each image will be 1 frame long. Then *again, I think* you can select all the images and turn them into a compound clip, then use FCPX's stabilization.
Good tutorial man. I’m more of a photographer than a videographer, so I’d like a little more detailed explanation of the process in Pr. Some of the stuff you’re doing with warp, etc. would be nice to know how to apply to other videos if I knew exactly what and why you were doing (regarding the warping at the edges and whatever that 102 number you were talking about, etc.). I guess what I’m saying is that it assumes the viewer has used Pr extensively. With the new hyperlapse mode you’re going to be getting a lot of people like me who are extensively experienced with Lr and Ps and photography but want to use the hyperlapse mode of the Mavic 2 and need to obviously be using Premiere more. Maybe a little more pedantic in the explanations for Pr next time? Just my two cents.
Thanks for the feedback, and I'll try to keep that in mind. Generally I'd say my tutorials aren't geared toward those completely unfamiliar with a program, so I do cut corners sometimes. Sorry that I lost you for a portion of this one.
Regarding the Auto Scale, basically when you use Warp Stabilizer, with the more it tries to smooth out the image, the more it also needs to scale the image so that you're not seeing the edges coming into the frame. The 102% is the scale that I try to stay at or under, because as that number gets bigger, it means Warp Stabilizer is pushing the image around more. This is more of a problem with wider lenses, and I haven't tested that percentage to see what's acceptable specifically with the Mavic 2 Pro with its 28mm equivalent focal length. I think you could probably get away with that percentage being higher, but I got used to trying to stick to 102% when working with some wider lenses.
Not related to the hyperlapse...what gear are you using to shoot this video (camera and lens)? Great image
Panasonic GH5 (it’s my workhorse! I’ve been shooting with it since it was released in April 2017) and a Voigtlander 10.5mm lens. Also had a Fiilex light kit for lighting this one.
I still use the same camera and lens for most of my tutorials, but I now have a Godox SL-200w light - much stronger and has a bigger softbox, and I’ve also just gotten myself an external recorder, the Atomos Ninja 5. Just used that for my most recent video.
Blue Mantle Films Thank you very much. Great work.
Any chance you can share you export settings for a small clip you would post to Instagram? Mine keep going out all wrong and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. They're either choppy, poor quality or somehow garbage.
How are are getting the day to night hyper-lapses seamlessly lined up? I was going to use waypoints but the app doesn't allow you to save them for replaying at different times of the day...
Making notes (mental and on my phone) about where I setup the waypoints...basically trying to line up the drone with some noticeable landmark on the map. Screenshots are great for this to reference where you had your waypoints set up. Also, you can access the flight logs and see it if you wanted. You would need to also take note of the altitude at each of the waypoints so that you get it the same.
Eventually DJI is going to implement the ability to save waypoints, but as it is right now, I just do it manually.
@@BlueMantleFilms thanks buddy. Wanted to make sure I hadn't missed something simple
Excellent. Now if you could just repeat that again but at 50% speed ;)
How can you shoot in raw by using 5”s interval since 2”s only has jpeg choice? Thanks much!
Which drone are you using? Previous DJI drones had the 5-second interval limit if you wanted to shoot raw, but on the Mavic 2 it allows 2 seconds with raw.
I think you are using time lapse mode so it will keep raw as a saved file but if you go to choose interval 5 seconds then no raw format will be available I am using Mavic 2 now, thanks for your reply!
I don't quite follow. I was filming in hyperlapse mode (if that's what you meant by time lapse mode, then yes, I was) and it has the options to do 2, 3, 5, and many more intervals, and all of them allow saving both the drone-generated video file and the raw images that you can edit like in this video. The other method, which more closely mimics the way drone hyperlapses were made with older drones, such as the Mavic 1, is to use interval shooting rather than hyperlapse mode, and I think in that case the availability of raw is limited to either 5 or maybe even 10-second intervals.
Thanks very much for your reply! Actually I am using litchi interval shooting so there is no raw format for 2 seconds, I learned from you and will use hyperlapse mode. Your works are so beautiful !
How many seconds of hyperlapse you can do with one battery? In my opinion its not possible to do a 30 second hyperlapse. After filming 20 seconds of material my battery is on 20% and i have to land if i will not crash my Mavic 2.
Yeah, I think the longest I've gotten is 20 seconds also. In theory if I knew ahead of time what I wanted to do and wasn't trying to figure out the movement for the first 3-4 minutes of the flight, and if I used something like CourseLock instead of Waypoints, then I think I could get like a 22 second hyperlapse, but that would be pushing it, I'm sure.
anyone else has the problem, to can not choose sequenz when importing? Tried some stuff but nothing worked.
The chance that someone could help me is less but I try my luck. When I do excatly the same process and render the video......l always have some unwanted black bars on the sides what do I wrong ?
I've seen LOTS of DJI Mavic 2 hyperlapses.
They're all shaky and look like shit.
These are definitely the best I've seen.
Thanks! I've got a video coming out shortly that has a bunch of hyperlapses from around Miami. Pretty excited by what this drone can do if used properly.
updated comment: i did a 5 second timelapse with raw images, but the video turns TOO jumpy..... how can i stabilize a video like yours?
please tell me how are you vids so crisp!!! im learning from your page
Hey guys, I got a very annoying problem. For some reason the aspect ratio of my Hyperlapse is always 4:3 and I can not change it in the menu. It looks horrible and the footage is useless. What can I do?
@7:40 "If you had a faster computer, you would do a better one..." What would you do "better" than exporting the JPGs for Premiere?
I'd use a lossless format, rather than lossy. I haven't done a ton of research on which specific lossless format I'd want to use, but my first inclination is TIFF just because I'm familiar with it, so I'd probably go with that. But the file sizes are big and when trying to play them back as a video they were too processor-intensive for my computer. I've since upgraded my computers, but haven't done many hyperlapses lately, so haven't actually tried TIFF.
@@BlueMantleFilms thank you. I’ll give it a try on my new M1 MacBook.
@@TheBanksFamily Let me know how it goes. I always prefer to maintain as much quality as possible through the process so that the finished result is as high of quality as possible, but sometimes tradeoffs (time vs. data storage vs. quality) are necessary. But with a fast-enough computer then "tradeoff" might be a relatively moot point.
Why is he not using after effects? Wouldn’t importing a raw sequence and keyframe with lumetri colour be better?
can i run hyperlapse while doing point of interest?
If you're using a Mavic 2, the yes: POI is one of the hyperlapse modes. If you're using a different drone, and it has POI, and you can do interval shooting, then you should be able to combine the two and make a POI hyperlapse.
why yes sir I'm using that mav pro2 baby very excited about having one.
Actually syncing edits it's not the optimal way to apply changes as it does the exact same to every image in post, when you often need to see how the edits are applied based on each subtle change in light or exposure. This is done in the develop module by selecting all images in the tray (control A), turning on the AUTO SYNC button then as you making changes to the one image the relative changes will be applied to all the others.
I don't quite understand this. Does it essentially keyframe the differences so that the relative changes are mild/slow across the whole sequence? If not, I would be afraid that using edits that aren't consistent across the whole sequence would end up introducing flicker into the timelapse.
They are consistent and you can see the changes across the thumbnails. So if you are creating a series with increasing or decreasing light you can ensure the final scene wont be too dark or bright. However it is not graduating the changes like LRTimelapse.
Is there a CZcams video you can recommend that explains this process and shows samples? I'm intrigued and want to try it.
I feel like I must be misunderstanding something. I just tried it on a sequence I'm editing, stayed in the develop module and selected all the images in the tray, then enabled Auto Sync, then did my edits to one photo at first, and it synced it exactly the same across all of them. This is definitely a faster method of editing (not needing to copy and paste settings) so that's good, but from your first comment it sounded like you were saying the syncing will affect the images differently depending on the subtle changes in the image.
I think he means you can preview any change you make across all the images. For example, you might end up rising the exposure on one photo and it looks terrible on another. Auto sync will mean you can see this straight away in the filmstrip at the bottom
What app or software do you use to edit your videos?
Premiere Pro for the regular video editing.
@@BlueMantleFilms could i do this on an ipad pro?
@@luis21alba You could do some of it, yes. I know there's Lightroom for iPad, so that's easily doable. I also know there are a lot of different video editing apps, so you'd be covered there as well. The one thing I think that would be lacking from editing on the iPad (though I might be mistaken on this) would be robust video stabilization abilities. I'm not sure if there's an equivalent to Warp Stabilizer on any of the editing apps, and these hyperlapses pretty much always need stabilization in post.
@@BlueMantleFilms thanks man i be using your advice 👍
Do mavic pro 2 is capable of capturing dng files on every two seconds. Mavic pro original will not
It is, yes. I was pleasantly surprised by that, because I was assuming it would be the same, that you'd need to do a 5-second interval to be able to capture raw.
nice 523 to 1 like/dislike ratio xD
(it wasn't me)
Intro song?
Love automatic for anyone wondering
when adding sharpness mask the outlines there is no point sharping flat surfaces you only add noise
Awesome! I started doing this on the latest hyperlapses that I've been processing. Thanks for the tip!
Curious how this is done? Can you give me a quick run down Niall?
請問8:00這個影片處理軟體名稱?
楊智勝(洋森) Adobe Premiere Pro
Image size settings? just skip past that
Do you mean for shooting or for exporting? Shooting is just at the native resolution of the sensor (~5,600 x ~3,700). For editing I edit in the native resolution, then once I’m completely done with edits I export two versions of my clips, one in the native resolution and one at 4K. This tutorial is supposed to be watched in conjunction with the broader hyperlapse tutorial I made, and in that one I mention exporting at native resolution and 4K.
The Lightroom part of this video is too long, compared to the Premiere portion. I would have liked to see more detailed explanation about what you did in Premiere. It is obvious you use Premiere a lot, and kind of asume that we all are following you. I will practice this right away, to see if it turns out right. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the feedback. I hadn't even realized the disproportionate time I spent between Lightroom and Premiere. Admittedly, overall my tutorial videos are often geared toward those who have a working knowledge of the programs.
Anyway, I hope you were able to figure it out and get results you were happy with.
Yes, I have a friend that really knows Premiere, and he watched your video, and figured out hte way to do it. I thank you for this video. One way or the other, I learned something new throuh it!
not enough details
I figured an 11-minute video was long enough. More details and it would have been 20-30 minutes.
044
speed up video or take 100s of photos the end result is the same, its easier to just speed up the video
sbcfilm Have you worked with raw files before? I always get significantly better results from my raw files than I do from the auto-generated video.
But I’ve said many times: the point of this or any other tutorial I make isn’t to tell you you have to do it this way. It’s to show what I think is the way to get the best results possible. If you don’t care to get the best results possible, and want to just do something quick and easy, then speeding up video is fine (though inefficient since you’re recording 30fps and most of those frames will be thrown away).
@@BlueMantleFilms plus that miserable render time!!! great tutorials on hyper lapses!!
Very nice, but way to fast...you go like crazy through the application not showing where to find all the options you use. But still very useful vdo, thank you.
I guess I’m that guy. Can’t get my page to look like yours. There is no loading button. You went way to fast on that part. That’s the part I need
Which part? What questions do you have and maybe I can answer them? I try to keep my videos moving along because I don't like watching slow tutorials. I know they're not for everyone (if you think this one was fast, don't watch my latest video!) but I hope there's still value in them for some people.
Blue Mantle Films I’ve don’t time lapse with Premier before but the not raw. I was able to I Import one photo but not the series in light room . I don’t know how you got that import button to come up. the one you used in your video. I attempted after effects. But some how am not getting it to render the full time lapse. Well the part be for the render if that make sents?