What comes AFTER the race
Vložit
- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- This video will take you through the required maintenance after a race weekend.
Class: Rotax Max EVO
Kart: 2014 CRG Road Rebel
Intro:
Fuel:
Sprocket & Chain:
Clutch /w bushing or bearing:
Overview for alignment and bolts:
Conclusion:
kart video:
Let me know if this content was useful. For future videos I will look into getting a better camera/mic. Thanks for watching.
Thanks to Dan Lazar and Joey from OverDrive Motorsports www.odkarts.com for providing the help needed to get me and others up to speed in the sport. - Sport
thanks man, this video is so useful for those rookie who just started racing like me
Thanks for the comment. Good luck out there.
I'm not a karter but, I do find it interesting. As well I did enjoy your presentation. Simple and concise. Thank you
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the video.
So good to see a video with a kart that's in use. I've seen so many videos but they're mostly about new karts. I'm saving money for buying a second hand kart to my son for about 2500 dollars and I gonna have to learn to do as much of the services by my self. This video is really useful so thank you :)
Great info. Looking to start karting. Answers a lot of questions.
I just bought a 125cc rotax max junior with a CRG black star chassis and this video is very helpful 👍
good chassis, good motor! have fun.
I want to buy a Rotax kart and I might want a DR chassis. So I find this video very helpful for what to expect. Amazing video!
AND I THOUGHT I WAS THE ONLY ONE WITH GOKARTS AND WARBIRDS IN HIS CAVE!! NICE JOB BRENT.
I used to fly RC planes/helicopters/drones quite a bit. My vision isn't as good as it used to be, so i'm pretty committed to racing now. Both Sim racing and Kart racing.
Very avaition like approach to maintenance! As it should be. Great vid.
Gday from Western Australia Appreciate the content. This
Information helps us new karting dads.
Go Kart Dads!
Great video mate. I race IAME K100 on an Arrow chassis here in Australia and have been for a fair bit, it's good to see that people like you are sharing their knowledge to newcomers, where as when I started everyone just kept to themselves and didn't share anything. Keep up the good work.
Thanks mate! I find that in our neck of the woods, everybody shares and helps.... until you get good. Then the advice stops coming, and people try to figure out what you're doing and beat you! hah.
Dude... this video is amazing. So much information and knowledge acquired in 20 mins!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice and very useful to someone about to get started, like me. Many Thanks
You did an excellent video of your cart thank you 👍🏻
Thank you!
Thanks, very useful, the bearing part was great, had no idea you needed to lubricate that part that often.
You're welcome!
Nice little video Brent. you've come a long way in a very short time. I told you there would be a very steep learning curve but you appear to be well ahead of that curve. Great to see number "94" being so well looked after! Cheers Ray Lord
Thanks. You were right. Lots to learn. Now to discover how to go fast.
Haven't watched the video yet but the title made me remember 20 something odd years ago. I think we probably spent more time weighing, cleaning, and checking everything over after a race than we spent preparing before a race. We could prep in a few minutes on friday night. We'd spend all of Sunday and Monday evening in the garage after a race.
I stumbled onto this video looking at karts (I’m considering getting into it). Anyway, one thing that I noticed that I think you overlooked is the condition of that chain. I have been into dirt bikes and motocross my whole life (Im no kid lol) and I seen your chain has stiff links which is a big indicator that it’s junk and will probably break at some point. A bad chain will wear sprockets quickly and bad sprockets will wear a new chain quickly too. I always replaced them as a set. Great video and I learned a lot about what is required maintenance wise on a kart!
Thanks, this video is useful for a rookie like me.
Very useful video, thanks 👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Really useful video thanks for sharing👍👍
My pleasure 😊
I found it quite interesting how you were saying you had to make sure you tighten your rear bumper? Back when I was in Senior Max (I'm in DD2 Max now, planning on a switch back to senior or IAME X30), tightening and loosening the rear bumper was one of the most useful setup tricks I used. When there was a lot of grip, I loosened the bolts so the bumper was loose on the mounts, zip tied the bumper to the mounts, so that in case the bolts would unscrew it would still be there, and not fall completely off. I noticed a massive change in how the kart lifted through the corners, cause at the time I was driving a 32mm chassis. It felt like the entire kart wanted to tip over when we had a ton off rubber laid down. Needles to say, it went a lot faster once the rear end settled down a bit more. However I do not recommend a 32mm chassis for anyone that weighs under 80kg (I'm around 68kg).
And a very good point about the set screws in the rear axle. Always. Check. Them. Every. Single. Pass. They're small little cunts that'll "screw" you right over if you're not careful. I ended up having a total rear brake failure because the axle moved, and the rear disc was in constant contact with the caliper. All the fluid started heating up and cooking, and pedal went right to the floor. Luckily I had front brakes, but that set of front tires were pretty much useless after that. (Happened in the fastest straight on the track. Telemetry showed 121 kph before I started "braking").
wow thanks for the great advice. I recently switched my rear bumper to an adjustable one, which now allows me to run it 'loose'. This significantly changed the handling. Brake failures suck. I haven't had one in the Kart.... but I have had a brake failure in my road car while driving at the race track. Similar reasons, the brakes got too hot and boiled. I felt it coming, but decided to finish the lap. I only made it 2 more corners before loosing almost all brake authority. Thanks for the great comment!
Just subbed about to get into karting and love it
great video man thanks a lot
Glad it helped
Thank you Brent
This is cool! I've never heard of a Kart Racing channel before :D Would be super sweet to eventually see you build a new kart from scratch!
Thanks. Your wish may come true. Currently shopping karts for next year.
Very useful thanks
If I may I would like to add 2 things to your maintainance program . Check the steering heims in the ball and socket area as I have seen even forged pieces loosen up in this area. And NEVER re-peen them to make them "like new ". A fellow racer was badly hurt from doing this. And a trick so that the hubs never move. Take a piece of key stock about 3/4 inch longer than the gap between the inside of the hub and the outside of the bearing minus the thickness of an axle collar. grind 3/8 back from each end , making these grinds flush with the outside of the axle.Put one tab under the bearing in the keyway. slide the collar on the other side of the key making sure the keyway on the collar DOES NOT line up with the key. Tighten the collar down and put the hub back on. Repeat for other side.
@Michael Aumick Thanks for the great suggestion. I had to look up what a Heim was haha. Yes the ball joint thingy's in the steering area. I would've normally just tossed them if they got damaged, but thanks for the heads up No Repairing them! I like your idea about preventing the hubs from moving, I'll be honest i've seen a few different approaches, and I'm struggling to visualize yours. Would you be so kind as to email a photo of the setup to info@kadlerracing.com ? I'm starting to work on a new maintenance video "what i've learned in a year of karting". A few different tips and tricks. Thanks for taking the time to comment and make suggestions.
Good video mate. Am looking at possibly getting into karting and was wondering if you could do a video on costings. I.e. setup and annual costs.
I have a video coming up this fall, working in partnership with Overdrive motorsports. Stay tuned!
@@brentkadler2870 awesome. Since some second hand karts in market place but a bit unsure of what to look for and running costs.
@@timjamesvella we just get Tony Kart Rotax engine from Strawberry racing team and it cost us 1150. Then straight we needed wet tires: I get used for 60£ and aloe weels for 120£, Then petrol and syntetic oil (Rotax) 23£ you need it to add to 95 octane petrol 100 ml per 4l. Then it is just starts : trolley 60- 250£, tolls - I get all box for 250£ just look for go kart tools. The set has everything. Then extra battery - 55£ or charger and you'll need take it after everyone race and charge it (36£ for a charger) it is starting cost. Then around 1500 a year if you would not need a new engine. New engine around 1800-2500. Refurbished 800. The rest just cleaning and lubrication and around 100£ a month for little things. Never ends and never enough.
@@linadukstaite6046 wow costs mount up fast. I currently do motorcycle track days and to convert to racing isn't too expensive. Just bodywork and slick tyres £300 bucks. The bikes are kept fairly stock.
So I always wonder why are these made not to last, my kart has a 428 chain and a beefy steel sprocket on engine and rear axle, probably takes 10x the laps these aluminium sprockets can take :)
Ok its not suitable for any racing class because it has a 1986 CR125 engine with cylinder porting + track regulation breaking decibel levels and the chassis is from 90's from Swiss Hutless. Currently restoring it (not a museum job) so I can drive it again and have a blast after some slow indoor karts :D
Thank you for this content - still useful! Question - what do you do with the fuel after you drain it from the tank? Use it at your next practice, or?
I use fresh gas for race days. I use old / left-over gas for practice. I usually run the carb a little rich during practice also to give a little extra lube. We will often run a 115-120ish Jet on race day, and I'll run 120-125 jet during practice. Weather and condition dependent of course!
those sprockets and chain definitely need replacing. Rotax chews chains and sprockets like crazy, I suggest using o-ring chains, more durable, wont snap on track, and gives a bit more life to your sprockets too
disregard that lol, just watched a bit more and realized you are using o-ring chains already
You are doing a good job,but I wouldn't run that chain again or sprockets. The chain was in kink mode(the shape of a triangle) at start of lube section. I do not know what an 11 tooth looks like new ,but that thing looks done. Your info was delivered very well though. Just think about that chain wear.
I concur, that chain and your sprockets are over mature. If the chain doesn't flow over your finger, it's time to replace it. That thing is eating horsepower. I always replace chain and sprockets together, never mix new and old components, that leads to premature ware of the new part.
Ps I've downloaded, saved, thumbed up and subscribed. Hope its helps your algorithm.
I hope it helps also! Happy Holidays!
Great video! What kind of track time penalty would you expect in this class of karting if you're a larger guy like me? (around 210lb)
210lbs == you will loose somewhere around 0.3 to 0.5 seconds as compared to an on-weight 395lb guy. Note that I am also ~210lbs, and I usually weigh in at 410lbs on the scale. So i've got quite the penalty to carry around with me!
Great video, thanks for posting. How do you like the CRG kart.
CRG kart is great! I was more successful with CRG than I was with Tony Kart. I'm slowly adapting my driving style and I feel that I'm now back to 'even' to where i was when I left my CRG kart.
gREAT VID
Good video bro, we race rotax here in Trinidad but we're still using the pre-evo motors since our club is very small. Couple questions how often do you service the power valve and carb? And also, the chain guard....does that make a big difference in keeping the axle bearing and surrounding area clean vs if you didn't have an enclosed case like that?
I only service my power valve once per year. It's usually done as part of my engine rebuild. The chain guard is mostly for safety, but it does also help keep the mess down. Even with the chain guard you will see tons of muck around the outer right bearing, but not anywhere else. Try to keep solvents away from the bearing as it will reduce it's life, but not the end of the world as a new bearing is $50-60USD. Most of the chain mess ends up by the motor on the clutch housing, so it's good to have a nice closed guard up front. The back chain guard is mostly just for safety, and to keep the back of the rotax engine somewhat clean. There are tons of grooves and ridges, so cleaning the motor takes a little time. Super glad to hear you liked the video. Keep growing the sport in Trinidad!
@@brentkadler2870 oh wow once a year, and no issues?? I clean mine every race , I guess that's overkill. What about the carb how often do you strip and clean? Roger on the chain shield, how do you clean the grime from that butter bearing without spraying any clean agent??
If you are needing to clean it every race, then there is likely a problem. Seals are gone or the valve is worn down or something. You'll know its working properly by the engine torque and engine sound once you hit power band (7000rpm ish I believe). If the valve is opening you'll notice it. The carb only gets cleaned once per year, or if there is problems. I change jetting and needles often, but I don't see the need to go inside and clean it. Maybe Trinidad gasoline is different? You'll have to judge on this yourself. As far as the bearing and keeping solvents off of it.... just do your best. It's impossible to keep it off completely. Spray the solvent on a cloth and wipe instead of spraying directly on the axle bearing. @@IggySport1388
@@brentkadler2870 i didn't have issue I was just told that servicing it prior to every race day was good practice but i myself have found that once you remove the spring so that the valve stays in the open position while thr kart is being stored is all it takes. Carb wise, i can get away with not doing it for a couple race days but not all year. I've just purchased a new engine to race this year from Canada. Who builds your motor over there?
@@IggySport1388 I cleaned my power valve after 2 weekends when I had a Rotax. It would be gummed with oil if it went longer than that.
lol I've never ever had anything going my overflow canisters. they are pristine.
neither have I
they're just a silly safety requirement in Australia, I don't think they use them in Europe at all.
How often do you cycle the water in your radiator? I read somewhere not to store your cart for any length of time with water in your cooling system. What do you do?
I replace the fluid in the radiator a minimum of once per year. I'm from canada so we use water/glycol mixtures, not straight water. If you are using water only, I would suggest emptying it out before storage. Thanks for the comment!
Brent Kadler thanks! I ended up buying some Water Wetter due to its lubricating properties. I’ll definitely drain the cooling system before winter.
Hey man great video! Im thinking of buying a shifter or tag iame125 what is the maintenance like? I wont be racing and traveling most likely in my local track and maaaaybe down to florida i live in atlanta thanks for your help
Shifter is definitely not a great 'first time' kart. That said, it's not much more maintenance than a rotax. You will need to rebuild a shifter twice as often, but the parts are half the cost.. so mostly its the extra consumables (fuel, tires, brakes) that cost a little more. I'd suggest you check out the local kart clubs and see what everyone else is running. I'd stick to their popular class. Have fun!
Brent Kadler great info man thanks!!
How long does your engine last before requiring a re-build of piston, rods, etc...?
The 'official numbers' are top end 25hours, bottom end 50 hours. Every competitive driver rebuilds sooner than that. I'm usually re-building every 15-20 hours. I put on about 11 hours per year, and re-build every 2nd year. Rebuilds cost between $800-1500CDN depending on if it's a top or bottom only. Usually there are upgrades available also, which I ALWAYS DO. Last year I put on a new Cylinder, in addition to the normal re-build. This year was an entire bottom end, piston, pump. I budget $1000 / year for engine upkeep and maintenance. Cheers.
What about the axle bearing maintenance, especially if you've gone off a little?
you can shoot in some degreaser, brake cleaner, WD40 into the bearings to try an clean them up. Re-lubricate with something like HH2000 or some other bearing grease. To be honest, I don't usually clean the bearings, and rather just replace them every 1-2 years. Cost is about $75/bearing.
Good video. Really struggled to hear you to be fair. I see you are going to look at a different Mic for next time so hopefully that sorts it.
Definitely helpful thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. I will look at getting a new mic.
How often do you have to replace the frame (assuming no heavy damage)?
Frames will last for several years. If you invest in some skid plates, you will never wear it out from on the asphalt. Some frames might crack in a few locations but they can be welded, and a high quality brand (CRG, Tony Kart, etc etc) shouldn't crack unless it's crashed or bent. We have guys competitively racing on 12 year old frames. You will need to update some components (motor, brakes, bumpers) but the frames will last a long time.
@@brentkadler2870 Thanks for the reply. I know some of the national shifter kart guys get a new frame every 3 races or something crazy like that, so I wasn't sure how often it must be replaced on the hobbyist/club level.
There are a few reasons for this. A Pro will never straighten a frame. A Pro will never run a road rashed frame (and never run skid plates either). A Pro will run the fastest line, even if that means launching 3 feet in the air over a ridiculous curb, and wrecking their gear. Lastly a Pro usually gets pretty good deals on their frames from the manufacturers, and guys like you and me will often pay near or sometimes over MSRP for a kart that's been setup well and races a fast lap time. For you and me, frames cost a couple of grand. For the Pro's frames cost hundreds of dollars. @@BunkerBlog
@@brentkadler2870 Interesting. Again, thanks for the informative reply!
I have a CRG from 2002
What kart lift/stand is that?
www.kartlift.com I don't think they make it any more =(
I wouldn't run that rear sprocket and chain in a race. The chain has at least one kink on the top when it was in the original position. The sprocket looks too worn/sharp and the front drive sprocket isn't much better. If your going to run it til it fails on a practice day, I guess that's fine, but for a race there is no way I'd run it.
Yes! I've changed the front sprocket, rear sprocket, and the chain is toast. It actually snapped during practice! Thanks for noticing. Good eyes!
Why use clutches at all? The old 135 direct drives were very simple and easy to maintain.
Easier to warm up the engine while still, also gives power at the engines powerband, which results in more power
They still race Rotax? Rotax is pretty much killed off here in the States..... they run IAME X-30 now and CR125 Stock Moto.
Yea Rotax is healthy and pretty much the only thing going in Canada. Rotax and Briggs & Stratton. The clubs are all talking about switching over to other motors, but it hasn't come to be.
Well Rotax is a bullet proof engine is just that they are expensive and the new Evo has some hick up with the harness, but I run Rotax with no issues
US karting has always had a corruption issue between organizations and manufacturers.
Would have liked to see air box cleaned carburetor cleaned and maybe oil changed?
airbox clean.... only if you go off the track! you don't do that do you? hahah just kidding. Thanks for watching.
hope you can answer,, theres a guy selling a exprit 2017 used chassis with 125 rotax evo engine,, told me is ready to run. he ask for 2k usd,, i said 1100usd and i dont know im losing a great deal or he trying to rip me off with a super used bent chassis and a raced engine that will give me a lot of expensive headache,, can you give me ur opinion? am i winning or losin?
All depends on if it’s in good shape. Repairs can easily be thousands of dollars, bent frame, axle, etc. If you are a first time kart buyer I would recommend buying from a trusted kart store. If you know your way around a go kart then by all means there are good deals out there.
@@brentkadler2870 ive just tell him , i wont buy...i dont know but i think that frame isreally used ,he already sent me a photo of the seat front support and were rusted,he told me he had to reinforce cause of bent,maybe he was heavy i dontknow, and also i ve just realised the engine must chang piston after 12hours,so i told him 1000usd no more, i bet he will decline
@@brentkadler2870 i offered 1100usd i will take the risk after driving it and checkin visually the frame and the extras,,, if the kart is bad what should i feel when i m driving it,, if he accepts today i will go tomorrow to buy,, please hope you can reply before, btw you think is 1000usd a good price for 8/10 rotax 125evo?
Where could u find a starter kart for my son he’s 13
check your local kart club. My club is www.ckrc.com Best of luck!
Can anyone tell me the problem with an axel that isn’t perfectly straight?
Aize bent axles have been known to break. I’ve seen two in the last year where the wheel, hub, and axel stub go flying off. The other reason is that if it’s bent enough to vibrate the chassis you will get that vibration at the tire contact patch and it will affect your handling. If it’s very slightly bent you will have to make a judgement call. Thanks for watching the videos and good luck.
@@brentkadler2870 Thank you very much for your reply. Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
12:10
Hi! Are you not using loctite?
After My race, when Im back in The car, I sleep For A bit.. just to Make me calm down....
When Im home, we Get The fuel out of The tank, I clean The Go kart And when Im done (around 2am)
I go to bed, And sleep. Then wake up at 11am And just do My normal day stuff.
funny an American sprint kart is way more sophisticated than that European kart who woulda thunk even with our tiller motors
**sees All Blacks shirt**
**happy Kiwi noises**
I really enjoyed my travels to NewZealand. Definitely loved the southern motorsport culture.
Thanks for the info, by the way you kind of look like aaron Rodgers
Thanks!
If i would use such a rubber thing under my exhaust it would smelt immediatly😂
Rotax is as good as dead. Iame ka100 And x30 have taken over! Good video though.
Chris Burns thanks for the comment. Rotax is alive and well in Canada. Ka100 is getting tested this year by a few members at the track. We will see what happens over the next few years.
SAME HP SAME LENGTH KIDO!! UNLESS YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT 175CC 2 STROKE
ka100 motors are terrible, good power for its size but wears out too easily. For us national guys, after 3 hrs of run time on the motor, the engine starts wearing off and you start to lose 1-2 tenths. and needs a top end after 5-6hrs. Rotax is not the fastest but it is reliable as f**k! other than a couple easy fix electrical issues with the harness, they run like a dream, top end rebuild not due til 10-12hrs and bottom end til 25-30hrs. Iame x30 will still be the king of TAG no matter what, even though they chug litersssss of oil
Could you do all videos more close. I’m very new to it
Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to get 'closer' for my next maintenance videos.
@@brentkadler2870 thank you for your video Brent, but you need to understand that for mum like me, who ended up as mechanic ....clear videos with names of tools and all possible info is just what I need!
Pilot bearing is the term
BUSHING!
@@brentkadler2870 Depends on if there is a bushing or needle bearing in the pilot hole.
I WANT TO BE A WORLD FORMULA 1 CHAMPION . WORLD .. LISTEN . I WILL BE THE ONE WHAT YOU HEARD..
Step 1: be incredibly rich or get insane sponsors
Step 2: climb the motorsport ladder in a matter of 6-7 years and become F1 world champion
Step 3: like, subscribe, and hit the notification bell on Kadler94 videos!
I don’t even own a kart. I watched the whole video...
Amazing! This is one of my first videos, and it's lower production value than my more recent videos. Check out my latest adventures in karting! New episode out tomorrow.
Oil been lying in the ground for millions of years. But won't use fuel bought more than a week ago. (I know that they process the oils exc exc so I am just joking)
yea. It's not actually the 'fuel' per se... it's the aeromatics that evaporate off with an unsealed tank. You could plug up the kart fuel tank and then it would be ok to keep in the tank much longer. Have fun racing this summer!
Yap its better to empty the tank cuz it loses octane
Yes!
I’m definitely not a kart guy but in moto short fat sprocket teeth is not good...? Short teeth are a no go.
The teeth get sharper and sharper as they sprocket wears. You'll need to replace before it ends up in a chain failure. Same as moto, it's not the steady loads that cause a problem, but rather a jump/bounce peak load situation. The sprockets are standardized so the teeth shape are pretty much defined by the class of go-kart.
When your all grown and your formula 1 dreams are dead in there water.
Yes! and then you get into arguments as full grown men shouting over who bumped who.
Real tight isn’t a measurement. Foot pounds is a measurement. Try to give specific foot or inch pounds when talking about tightness.👍🏻
Normally I would, but I don't have a measurement to give. Do you know what an appropriate ft-lb torque is for this component? I try not to post exact numbers if I don't have the information verified. Thanks for the tip.
Needs better audio
Audio is hard. I'm trying. Yes I agree with you.
I can’t take you moving the camera so much. Set the camera on a tripod and do shot differently.
Noted
He maintains cart better than himself . He has poor hygiene with a unshaven face and failed to brush his teeth.
You can smell my breath through the video?
@@brentkadler2870 : A picture is worrh a thousand words a video is worth a million words and smell o ' vision !