Building A Unique Gravel Bike Part 2 - No Turning Back Now!
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- čas přidán 23. 06. 2022
- Part 1
• Turning A 90s Cannonda...
Here we are again, continuing the build of my unique 1994 Cannondale Delta V MTB gravel conversion.
Previously I stripped the paint and modified the fork, this week I take drastic measures with the frame and I'm fully committed to my vision.
There is a cliffhanger but once again I ran out of time, I think it will be finished in part 3 though!
Thanks for watching and let me know what you think!
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#gravelbike #cannondale #aliclarkson #bikebuild #retrobike - Sport
Your channel is starting to turn into a dream builds channel but based in reality. I, for one, approve of that. I love the trials vids but the variation is welcome too. Nice work Ali!
Dream second hand builds 😄
Couldnt agree more. Alis builds are so genuine and unique, its really fun and refreshing to watch.
What nooo! Don't you guys know you have to buy a brand new 15k E-bike, wear out the headset or bottom bracket then declare the entire thing land fill. You are going to get "big bike" mad with this alien concept of actually fixing stuff.
@@Ali_Clarkson stuff doesn't have to be new to be something you want/dreamt about owning ;-) TOO much consumerism and waste being created on this little planet of ours, no one's fixes and keeps things long enough these days - stuff stops working, it's tossed and they buy another.
My newest bike is 4 years old and I plan to keep it at least until the frame disintegrates under me, same plan with all the rest :-D
Working class builds
Hack saw fabrication is actually fairly easy. Just study up with some Allen Millyard videos. He can do anything with a hack saw. "Ass bracket." took me a moment to figure out. Well done Sir!
I have huge respect for Allen but I’ve not really watched many of his videos, sounds like I should!
Obviously it's grey! Looking forward to the reveal. Quick tip on the primers: use the etch primer first, as it is slightly acidic, and this helps it to bite into the aluminium better. Also, with some paints it can strip the layer underneath, so always best to apply direct to the bare metal, and let it gas off well, before applying the wash primer. And obviously with it being acidic, don't use on plastics!
Bit too late to tell him about the primers!
That makes a lot of sense! I’ve only ever painted one bike (as in taken it seriously) so I’m a beginner when it comes to the details…I’ll bare this in mind for next time, thanks for helping 👍🏻
Ahh, this brake mount brings me back to my toolmaking days, remembering you don't need a cnc machine if you have time and a bit of patience. 👍👍
That file work looks so slick. Really wouldn’t think there was a bridge or mounts there.
Again another awesome video. Really enjoy the bike builds. Colour choice? Think it might be a deep red. Probably way off though
Yep, probably red :)
Thank you! Red was second choice but not the one I went for
I’m thinking green
This is some seriously incredible work! I've never even heard of someone bothering to remove the cantilever post after a disk conversion, let alone making it look like they were never there.
Thanks very much!
The first time I saw one of those 10mm QR axles, I immediately asked "How did this not happen sooner?!" It's a shame they came in too late when thru-axles were already taking over, but it's just so obvious to make the quick release itself 10mm that it's mind boggling that it took the bicycle industry 70 years or so to do it.
I haded on my first fully mtb. It worked perfectly.
Yeah it’s a definite improvement over a standard one
arent those 10mm QR axels useless from an engineering standpoint? I neam the part of the hub that the frame rests on with a standard 5mm QR hub is the same size as the 10mm QR axle, but instead of it being a loose part it is built into the hub. the only difference I see is that the 10mm axle could be solid (it is not, to save weight) and the standard hub axle could not.
@@bobvelting379 Technically it should work just the same as the axle resting in the dropouts is the same diameter, but having the axle and the QR as one unit doing both jobs just makes more sense, can save a bit of weight (hollow), and is probably less prone to loosing small parts like springs. QR skewers weren't actually a great invention, and it's 1930's technology (Campagnolo) for cup and cone hubs.
I absolutely love projects like this, where zero f*s are given about what it's "supposed to be" and just really make it what *you* want
I myself have hacked cable mounts off my red 2006 Stumpjumper FSR comp, and have sawed rear racks off vintage city bikes and I love that I did both! Will definitely keep doing this kind of stuff just like you.
I am not used to seeing a YT video using safety PPE, usually it is squint goggles, no ear muffs or respirator. Nice job as usual Ali, cant wait to see the RED coloured paint job!
Crazy how modern this looks now. I love this build. Nice bonus with the purring. 😺
Thank you :)
Cant wait for pt3
Soon soon
When using the hacksaw you can extend the pointer finger of your grip hand down the side of the hacksaw. This will help prevent rotation of your grip hand around the handle and assist with accuracy. Control the downwards pressure on the blade so it doesn't twist and you should make an accurate cut. Once you have practiced and mastered this let me know, I've been trying for years and I'm still 💩.
Thanks for sharing 🤘💪🖖.
Top tips thanks! Time to practice :)
Glad I'm not the only one who hates the look of V brake bosses, and removes them! Did the same to a 2005 Stumpjumper... looks so much cleaner!
It's got to be baby blue! OG Cannondale race colors to tickle your nostalgia!
😗
Looks fantastic, but I would be very concerned about putting a disk brake on those dropouts which were not designed to take that amount of force. Especially what amounts to an aluminum cantilever. I would have recommended saving the left brake boss mount and use an adapter that attached there. They look awful, but transfer the braking forces to a location that was designed to take it. My fingers are crossed for you.
You make a good point, if this breaks then I do have another identical frame I’ll do your suggestion with 👍🏻
Valid point...that is a quality frameset though it appears a small triangulation welded in near the caliper would solve any concerns. . Done rear calipers conversions many times before too. always a worthy upgrade.
I love this kind of videos, where creativity and crafting come together to make unique builds. Keep'em coming!
Funny! I was scrolling and stopped because I recognized the frame in the thumbnail. I am in the process of converting the same frame over for my son to use as a commuter. I stripped it down and put on a multi-color paint job. (Never again! Using so many colors was an absolute pain!) I have to do a couple of touch ups on the paint and assemble it. I found some v-brakes with long adjustment to fit 700c wheels and am using flat bars with Box 8 speed 1x. I figured that was the best setup for him. It will be a commuter and he is a party pace rider anyway.
Same here. I can apparently identify a lot of bikes from tiny details. If only it was a marketable skill…
As a vintage Cannondale fan I have to just say thank you and tell you to just disregard anyone who chooses to hate on your bike. You have done an amazing job at improving the looks and function. The only down side of this build is it is making me want tear down my just completed build just to remove the brake bosses. I can't wait to see what color you choose. FYI, mine came out stunning in Lime Green and Titanium Metallic.
Your colors sound nice! And thanks for the encouragement, I can understand people wanting to keep stuff original but these frames aren’t exactly rare (I have another one) so I wanna get it looking super neat :)
@@Ali_Clarkson Mission accomplished on making it super neat.
If you want to see my Delta V I finally got off my butt and uploaded and CZcams short video of it. Feel free to look and offer any advice/suggestions..
Awesome work Ali, I have nothing but admiration for anyone who can do this sort of stuff! I can barely change a lightbulb. As for the colour, it’s a 90’s Cannondale so I’m going with red.
Thank you! But no it’s not red
gotta say your removal of the bosses and bridge look ridiculously slick. genuinely looks as designed and factory fresh.
10/10
and i bet the color youve chosen is gray. that'd be such a sneaky touch.
You don’t generally have to worry about mixing paints but the exception can be Rustoleum. Primers are probably fine, but something in the Rustoleum chemistry won’t let other paints lay on top of it.
I have a Benotto road bike frame hanging in my garage for more than a year now waiting to be restored. Watching your video I'm getting inspired and learning from you. Thank you for that. Great video as always. Looking forward for the next. Cheers.
You are ONE Creative Evil Genius Ali !!! What a GREAT video !!
Reminds me of the time I tried butting my frame tubing from the OUTSIDE HAHAH!!
Thank you and I’d be lying if I said I haven’t thought of doing that too 😂
@@Ali_Clarkson HAHAHAAH!!!!
I fitted the Hutchinson Overides for the same reason. They are light but lost air and the grip is minimal. In desperation I put inner tubes in only to find they puncture REALLY often!
The anticipation of what color its gonna be!!! 🙂 Thx for the video Ali ✌🏻
Turns out all my other bikes are this colour now too, savage overspray happened 😐
this build is looking really cool dude. i love your approach to building up new bikes to make them unique, keep up the great work can't wait for part 3!
Thanks very much :)
Awesome watch. Looking forward to see the finished bike. It would be interesting to see a visual in your bike builds of how long this takes, like time stamps for each part perhaps. I can imagine you have spent a fair amount of time on this!
Thank you :) I’m not sure how much time it’s taken so far, certainly a few days of actual work, maybe 4-5 days working on it between other stuff
Upon a Trek frame from years ago I spotted a mixture of aluminum file shavings with epoxy adhesive. When cured was almost invisible.
Not a bad idea!
Impressive level of detail! Looking forward for the finished result! Makes me want to properly build a retro gravel bike as well :)
Thank you :)
Second all good now
Love your channel. You have the diyperks vibe to it which i love
Thanks very much! I’m a DIY perks fan so that’s a lovely comment ❤️
Thats so great. Cant wait for the final video. I love bikes with a unique touch🤟🏻
Whaaat a work with bike and montage! Your cat is a really cute too!)
Would be great to see some street riding with comments on your DJ build)
Thanks buddy :) I’ve tried to do a street video on the DJ bike but currently my chronic neck pain odd stopping me from riding hard so I’m hoping some time off building bikes will get me feeling better and able to ride again soon 👍🏻
A handy tool to have in your Arsenal is a bench linisher/disc sander. I recently bought one to face off an exhaust manifold. I’ve since used it loads whilst fabricating some cds tube projects. The disc sander is a really useful bit of kit for linishing on angles or for squaring up material to an adequate tolerance. Also a top tip from the boys at pfi speed is to use wax when removing aluminium stock with a flap disc. Sounds crazy but it appears to work. I guess it stops the disc from clogging up with material. Quirky choice of frame for this one though, be interested to hear what the bb height is once built up.
I’d actually love one of those! At some point I wanna re-do my garage and give some space for one :)
Stoked for this build!
To do gravel where I want more tire width, I decided to go for a larger rim which would diminish how wide of a tire I would be able to fit. And compromise a crack-prone frame with noisy disc brakes, because everyone who uses rim brakes dies. I’LL LIVE FOREVER! Fucking genius.
Why would you do that!?
@@Ali_Clarkson I watched your video and it inspired me to be super cool just like you!
@@mattmatthews5414 that checks out :)
That greyscale into cliffhanger was amazing. You should definitely do it more, and maybe even do it for the whole painting process if you're doing something unique to keep us guessing (but not for a whole week!)
Thank you!
Awesome video and really nice Cannondale frame,those are bomb proof,we'll done on the modifications,your really skilled.Safe riding.💯👌🏻✌🏻
Just a tip, aluminium isn't tough to cut, it's just too soft for slitting disks, it just clogs the wheel and stops it cutting, saw teeth don't clog so easy. Another tip, aluminium can also clog your file, periodically loading the file with chalk will stop the teeth filling with soft aluminium. Interesting build so far.
It’s definitely going to be blue. No doubt about it.
Haha you do that :)
Great job. Cannot wait to see the color
Amazing metal work skills, Ali! Very brave, with pretty much flawless results.. can tell you enjoy doing this, it shows in your work!
Thank you and yeah, working with metal is great…I’d love to learn to weld and make frames etc
@@Ali_Clarkson I think you should look into it and give it a go, there’s nothing stopping you!
Great choice of frame, nice and different!
Thank you :)
PART 3 PLEASE! I DO LOVE RESTORING BIKES
Looks so much better! I can't wait to grind the brake mounts and cable stays off my Cannondale V!
Very nice. I was thinking of doing the same, but my wife liked the geometry, so she has a new mountain bike!
Love the videos! Excited to see how this one turns out.
Thanks Jake!
Exited for how it turns out! I dont mind waiting one or two weeks longer for a video if its an ambitious project, so dont feel pressure to keep the upload schedule!
What an amazing transformation!
Thank you :)
I like how you use the cantilever dropout for a disk mount: very creative and innovative thinking. I always shied away from those cantilever dropouts for the vain reason that I just didn’t like the looks, and now knowing they will fit a 10mm axle, I’m really thinking this could be a solid gravel build. Good job!!!
Ail , loving your garage builds , I think a lot of us retrobike guys enjoy 👍👍👍🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴😂
i love to watch your builds
I love making them :)
Wow, bang up job on the "body" work, can't wait to see how it comes out! Let my guess on the color be: violet
Your patience with preparing the frame and working out a brake mount gives me a headache. Bravo. I’m interested to know what you spend on these builds as they are always trick and done properly.
What do you mean spend? The Cute Thief provides everything 😋 thanks for the compliments though 👍🏻
You could tidy up the brake mounts by welding them together - or down the line using them as a template to get a 1 piece one made ! Excellent work I love the project.
Awwwwww, come on! I bet it's a nice cherry red, though. You're awesome!!
Thank you but it’s not red :)
I have the same frame sitting in my garage. It’s a 95 that I bought used in 97.
Fantastic build series!
Probably been asked, but when is the part 3 out? 8 year old and 12 year old are keen on bike builds like me. Can’t wait😂
I hit a hurdle with the decals (the ones I had tore) and it’s just taking a while to get some good quality ones…I’ll continue the series asap 👍🏻
Thoughts:
1) just before last week's video I was wondering if one of those Cannondale head tube forks would suit your trials needs.
2) if you don't want to mar soft alloy parts, make yourself some soft jaws for your vice. A bit of 40mm extruded aluminium right angle cut to length works nicely. Glue in some magnets for convenience.
3) I have that same grinder and flap disk. Works great for grinding rims in a hurry. Bike in stand, tyre off, wheel back in, spin, grind. You can control the speed of the wheel by changing the angle of the grinder disk against the rim.
4) Yay! Breathing protection! No lung cancer!
5) Look up some of Allen Millyard's videos to see just how far you can drive a standard hacksaw. He cuts motorbike engines into thirds and welds them back together again.
6) you can get pretty decent angles, flatness and straightness by cutting nearly to size with the hacksaw, then bringing it into final shape carefully and slowly with a decent file. Just take steps to prevent aliclarksium from building up in the teeth of the file.
I think a headshok would be cool for trials stuff but you do need a 1.5” headtube which isn’t really a thing in trials :(
I actually do have some soft clamp jaws, I thought I’d probably get a comment about them haha
A flap disc can work in an emergency like you say but I prefer to keep my tyre on so I’m no smearing dirt and ruining the fresh grind :)
I’m actually a huge Millyard fan but I don’t really watch his videos, sounds like I should!
@@Ali_Clarkson I'll be genuinely astonished if you can stop yourself from trying out any trials techniques on this new build :p
It would seem any frame is a trials frame where you are concerned. Even cargo bikes!
I actually Like what your doing. Second To Klein, I think Vintage Cannondale's are the Nicest looking frames ever made, and a lot of that is the Finish so don't let us down.
love the bike builds keep it up
Thanks will do!
Fantastic commentary, fantastic conversion, well done!
I considered doing the same thing only taking the shortcut by sourcing an early 2K Scalpel, Titus RacerX, or Santa Cruz Blur (Like I already once owned) because all of them come with disc brake tabs. The idea was to build something that would be similar to the new Niner MCR.
However, I have done many many repaints all the way back to my very first bike build which was a PK Ripper BMX and one of my first singlespeed MTBs (Misfit Psycles DiSSent) which I did in a more "glowy" Bianchi celeste.
Amazing work man.
When paining steel wheels.for vans with rattle.cans, I found that drying each coat of paint with a heat gun gave a much more hard-wearing finish
I saw Adam Savage does that, I was tempted but didn’t have the time :(
if you're cutting anything again using the vice. The vice can act as the guide, cut horizontally keeping the blade flat to the face of the jaws.
Wow, nice work ! This is true DIY :D
Thanks very much :)
This would fun to rip around in !
Great video :)
Ali you should try a mitre block for the cuts. Nice new blafe and take your time. Should get nice angled cuts.
Good point!
I love this. Currently doing the same with a jump bike, removing all the unnecessary and heard you mention you did one, so I will take a look. But think you might have used your primers the wrong way around, etch primer first to grip the metal, then the surface primer 🍻
Dude this is Awesome!
I know it's easy for me to say but i'd just make a new caliper hanger then weld it on and put a suport in as well if i was making it, but i'm not so it don't matter!! awesome job love seeing how you sort out problems, i know you could have made a custom mount it would take ages and your hand might fall off with all the fileing, but you could have done it, loving your work!! was looking into building a bike to do the same, hitting forrist and gravel tracks as i have loads near me too!!
Ali, here's a piece of advice for grinding, sanding or filing aluminium: it galls really easily (smears and bonds with other surfaces) when being sheared. Get a bar of cheap soap and cut into it with your file, grinding disc or dremel wheel.
This will act as a lubricant and release agent which will keep your abrasive or cutting tool from being clogged up with metal. Repeat occasionally. It makes the job at least 50% easier.
You're a pretty good hand-metalworker all things considered. Also consider collecting handy items to use as backing pads for sanding. A thick marker, dowel or such is a perfect shape for sanding fillets (internal radii) like at the BB weld. Sponges are good for conforming to shapes.
Chalk works great as file lube too. I used to machine boron nitride often. Ive got a left over chunk that I use for files also. It's like chalk but much more slippery. Neat stuff, fun to machine too. Boron Nitride is a ceramic that handles very high temperature.
Wheel fact no. 9 the worlds largest manufacturer of wheels and tyres is LEGO!
I almost used that fact!
@@Ali_Clarkson its a good one. Should have left it blank and let people guess.
Next time use the etching primer first. Etching primer is used to "etch" into bare metal giving it better adhesion to bare metal parts. You aren't trying to build "mils" or thickness with it, just get good even coverage. Many times you can do a wet on wet coat with etching primer and then straight to the normal primer after the etching primer flashes off or just dry to the light touch. A couple to 3 coats of regular primer gives you some build so you can slick out the primer with a fine (360-600) wet dry sandpaper. It is usually a good idea to add a couple more light but wet coats of primer after the first sanding to give a good base for the color application. Lightly but thoroughly, final sand the last primer coats using water and ajax or dish soap and a 400-600 "grit" scotchbrite pad (these are usually green, red or gray). These don't really sand material away but will scuff up the surface really nicely and also easier to reach into the really tight areas.
Then you are ready to clean it and apply your color application. Remember that prep is about 95% of what makes a paint job look great. Paint is what shows how good you prepped the piece.
Some great advice there thanks! With my choice of primers I’ll be honest the reason I didn’t use the etching one first is because I didn’t know I had it 😋 I’d already done the first primer and just thought I’d go with it as I was limited with time as my Friday upload schedule was fast approaching but I’ll certainly be taking your advice on board and trying to get my work the best it can be :)
Bloody hell,awesome work Ali! I have been fearful of deliting my front mech mount and a cable guide on my alloy frame because some bugger online said that using power tools on alloy indices Heat which might weaken it!. Sick series. Colour ...blue or red
They’re kinda right but you’d have to be using blunt tools and going for a little while to really effect any heat treatment, glad you like the work though 🤘🏻
Super sick man!
You can use the 'bodged' mounts to trace a one piece mount on the aluminium block, even allow for a 160 rotor. I would def reinforce that dropout.
Professional， really nice work.
I also switched over to gorilla tape or two or three passes of regular duct tape in the color that I wanted in the cutouts on my trials bikes back in 2012 or so.
obvs, the outer layer could just be the colored duct tap with the gorilla tape the other way round. I don't have to take my tires off much, tho, so haven't got to do the hybrid gorilla/duck. is it a gor-ducken?
For lightness I always used wide sellotape doubled up on itself (sticky side to sticky side) 😄
@@Ali_Clarkson For lightness, I just remove my socks. LOL
I have a ~20 year old Cannondale F400, and now I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Luckily, my frame has an IS mount for the real wheel. All I need would be a HeadShok fork with disc brake mounts. But these a hard to find in my area…
Very good work on the frame cutting all those bosses off so neatly! I think "etch primer" might be meant for steel and stops it rusting (well hopefully) but probably doesn't matter. I've sometimes had it cause the top coat to shrink or something and get full of cracks. But maybe I had a bad batch or something.
Etch primer roughens the surface of metals to provide a better key so the paint is less likely to chip or peel. You do need to let it dry very thoroughly before painting over it.
Enjoyable video, looking forward to seeing the finished result. Just one comment on the Primers, it would probably be best to shoot the Etching Primer first as it has better bonding characteristics to bare metal than a standard primer. Then shoot the normal primer over the etch. Doubt it will be a problem on aluminum however as rust isn’t an issue.
Allen Millyard is the only person in history who can cut a perfectly straight line with a hacksaw!
I think that would look really cool in Purple.
Beautiful! Try using the entire length of the saw blade. Cutting will be much faster, easier the leaf will last sharp longer.
Yet again another amazing bike build A few contenders for GMBN hack & bogies trying to find a solution for the brake mount
Thank you :)
You’re welcome you kept this one clean is the dirty version sometime this week lol even as good as technology is nowadays still have problems lol
Avid never bothered with having a disc mount that was square. Hence using the cup and cone washers...
Haha true
These jokes are getting extremely creative 🤣 Loving this series lad
Thanks Mel!
I’m a complete Cannondale fan, since I got my first 1996 KillerV at a thriftstore. I dug into all the old catalogs and have a limited edition F2000 from Summer of 95 release, it is basically the exact bike Tinker and Alison won their respective medals and NORBA titles with. Those riders helped design a super-light hard tail that would go on to become the CAD 3 frame weight came in a t 1400 grams for the ‘95 year, then unfortunately Cannondale started overbuilding the design in 1996 and added 300 grams calling it CAD3 and the pros were still riding the super light version. Also the damping cartridges the pros were using in the Headshok was a Marzocchi made, single piece air/oil cartridge that was stiffly raced-tuned for the Summer 95’ F2000. Unfortunately the Marz cart is only used from 94&95 high-end suspended cannondales. Another thing about those Marz Headshok is there was no pedal bob when sprinting but it would open up when you hit a bump or rut. This is the best fork I’ve ridden aside from Lefty PBR because it operates the same way 15 years later. The craziest is that the Marx Headshok only has 50 mm travel, but is so progressive I’ve yet to bottom out; on typical gravel/xc rides of course
It was Dave's brother John who invented the wheel, probably explains why they haven't heard of Dave :).
A brushed frame with a tinted clear coat would look, how should i put his, "SICK" :).
The reason the grinding took so long, and why you destroyed the cutting disc on the dremel is because you can't grind aluminium. Grinding is based on the principle that the material will burn before it melts. Steel is the only metal that has that property. Aluminium will melt before it burns, causing mayor problems with discs clogging up with smeared out melted particles which solidify again stuck in the disc. What you're actually doing is "powersanding". Ever tried sanding wet wood? Grinding aluminium is just as succesful. Removing it mechanically, sawing, filing, milling or drilling works perfectly. just be sure to add some methylated spirit, which is the perfect cutting fluid! (use chalk on your file to keep it from clogging up)
I angle grinder cut aluminium with 1mm blades every week, works a charm. I also drop saw it with a 355x3mm Knox disc, bad for the lungs but cuts fine. Larger diameter disc is all you need
Top tips thanks very much :)
Love this! What about building a whole frame yourself? Tubes connected via the brazing method which is more beginner friendly.
My guess is purple! Something similar to the purple "plum crazy" that dodge has still to this day.
Great video
Nice work on removing all the retro gubbins. Correct approach with saw, then power tools, then hands.
I'd be very worried about adding extra lightness to the dropout, though. Surely it would have been a better move to drill and tap the adaptor to fit the existing holes?
Thank you :)
I know what you mean about the dropout, I was pretty limited the adaptor shape though and would’ve done your suggestion but there simply wasn’t any material in the adaptor where the second frame hole a was. I think it should be fine but I have a spare frame if it breaks 😋
as its a cannonade I believe its going to be a certain blue as Cannondale did the blue and yellow colour scheme back in the day
😗
Etch primer first. It contains an acid that helps it bond to bare aluminum.
Thanks for the video you did some fine work there, young man. That Gorilla tape fucks up when you remove the tire, maybe not the first or even second time but in time i found it does. I could just be to much of a brute when it come to removing tires.
Looks good ali im hoping its cannondale blue lol looks epic mate
You might be happy
It would easily take a 700c 28mm. Never forget how long old 26er Mtbs used to have. But 650b and the thickest tires you can fit is the better option anyway.
Yeah I tried a road wheel and there was no issues with clearance but I figured bigger tires would probably be better