Van Life Electrical Making your own Bus Bar part 1

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  • čas přidán 25. 10. 2020
  • In this video learn how to make a prototype, and final bus bar for your electrical panel.
    This is part one of two parts.
    Materials mentioned in this video series (Amazon affiliate links):
    Fuse holder amzn.to/3ETqH17
    Disconnect switch amzn.to/3youHU6
    Bus Bar
    I used this copper bar: www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/c...
    Products used in this van build (affiliate links):
    Magnetic Screens amzn.to/3bQ2NHt and amzn.to/3CXDxuJ
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    Inverter amzn.to/3wwmfCz
    Solar Charge Controller amzn.to/3BRTbXd
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    Bed Mattress amzn.to/3CY75IA
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    Trim Removal tools - amzn.to/2ZZq1s6
    Rivnut tool - amzn.to/3qcKcOh
    5/16" Rivnut - amzn.to/3bLzsho
    M8 Rivnut - amzn.to/3wluOA8
    M8 Bolts - amzn.to/2ZXCDzO
    Drill stops - amzn.to/3bQj1jS
    Framing Square - amzn.to/3CTYyXp
    Combination Square - amzn.to/307ov7A
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    Pex Cinch Tool + Pipe Cutter amzn.to/3qnZsro
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    Fuse holder amzn.to/3ETqH17
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    Crimpers amzn.to/3kihOGz
    TEMCO wire amzn.to/30bz2OZ
    TEMCO solar cable amzn.to/3wpiChA
    TEMCO wire amzn.to/2VfHbiL
    Wire 2/0 amzn.to/3GTTaWB
    Wire 6 Ga amzn.to/3o4lrkB
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    Wire 10 Ga amzn.to/3bQ07tp
    US Wire Extension cord 12/3 amzn.to/3qeEr2s
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Komentáře • 31

  • @kczofftheheazy
    @kczofftheheazy Před rokem +3

    Great video Mr. Frugal Factor. I find it easier if you start with an 1/8 inch drill bit and then follow with the desired size. Cutting oil helps too. De-bur after for a solid connection.

  • @sreekumarUSA
    @sreekumarUSA Před 2 lety +3

    080921/1850h PST 🇺🇸 Thanks. Good idea to connect the 300A Battery isolator to the busbar. I learned yet another design.
    Preparing a template before drilling the precious Cu bar is highly appreciated. I do that too.
    Overall a good educational and practical presentation. Thanks again and stay safe. 73s…

  • @TN-ez6lz
    @TN-ez6lz Před rokem +1

    Love the idea of the wood template / prototype. Would definitely make it less likely I'd screw it up. Copper is expensive.

  • @knightslogisticsltd
    @knightslogisticsltd Před 2 lety +1

    Frugal Factor
    Hi! Thanks for the time and effort in putting out these videos. I am at a junction with the electrics in my project. A little direction would be much appreciated. My equipment so far includes:
    3x 100Ah Renogy solar panels
    1x 40A Renogy Rover Solar controller
    1x Renogy DC to DC 40A charger
    1x 100Ah Lithium Battery (DC to DC Charger)
    1x 85Ah AGM battery (VSR- charging via alternator battery separately)
    1x 3000W Renogy Inverter
    1x 500A Renogy Battery Monitor with Shunt
    1x 12v Bue Sea distribution fuse holder
    There is
    4.7m between Starter battery - main lithium battery (100Ah).
    1.5m between Starter battery - AGM battery (85Ah)
    The Van is factory fitted with double Ford starter AGM 85Ah and 80Ah batteries. It came with a VSR and xantrex 1400W Inverter wired up to these batteries. I am thinking of utilising this set up in conjunction with a lithium set up. The new 3000W Renogy inverter is intended to power up an Induction cooktop and other appliances. So a question could be, am I able to use 2 inverters, 1 inverter with an 85Ah AGM Leisure battery and 1 with a 100W Lithium battery? And If yes, what would be the simplest schematic? Also I intend to use a Busbar system as oppose to purchasing the Victron Lynx distributor (to save money). The busbar system you are using look very neat and tidy. In short, I would like to replicate your system but with the minor differences due my circumstances. Your assistance would be much appreciated. Keep doing what you are doing! Thanks in advance.

  • @FurgoNorte
    @FurgoNorte Před 3 lety +1

    Good video!

  • @kf5hcr176
    @kf5hcr176 Před rokem +2

    .25"x.75" 120 mM square, probably easily to carry 200 amps

  • @user-tt7fg4xf3w
    @user-tt7fg4xf3w Před 26 dny

    Great to see such DIY solutions! Allthough clean copper being a great conductor only (challenged by silver) in humid ( condensarion) environments risk of oxidation is there. Did you consider nickel plating copper parts with DIY nickel/vinaigre solution and low voltage electrolysis?

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před 25 dny

      Nice idea. Never thought about that and it sounds like something I would do! But, it has been working as it for three years now, without any problems. All the videos divided by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/

  • @jackrussell4653
    @jackrussell4653 Před 3 lety +1

    Hi Frugal Factor.... Is it ok to connect the end of the positive cable of the solar charge controller to the busbar instead of the end of the positive battery cable? ... And then attach the positive cable of the battery to the other end of the ANL fuse?

    • @sreekumarUSA
      @sreekumarUSA Před 2 lety

      080921/1931h PST 🇺🇸 Yes, that’s the way the positive cables of Charge Controllers (CC) are connected. The reason as to why CC positive cable is connected to the positive terminal of the Battery (before the ANL FUSE) is because in the unlikely event of ANL blows, the CC will still have the power, thus saving it from failure. You may then, isolate CC circuit through its CB (for servicing the fault) Remember, where ever possible, use of CORRECT DC Circuit Breakers MUST be inserted into the circuit. ANL fuses are good choice over CB, though some controversy over this subject is discussed. Stay safe and 73s…

  • @Malburn
    @Malburn Před rokem +2

    Great informative video, thank you. Did you have any issues over time, with atmospheric corrosion of the copper bus bar?

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před rokem +3

      No problems so far. The electrical system has been in service for over a year, and we have traveled over 10,000 miles back and forth across the USA. In the next few weeks I will post a video reviewing the full electrical system.

    • @Malburn
      @Malburn Před rokem

      @@FrugalFactor That's good to hear, thank you for the reply :)

  • @gregnorman3183
    @gregnorman3183 Před 2 lety

    Hi Nice video, thank you. Question: How did you determine copper bar size needed?

    • @sreekumarUSA
      @sreekumarUSA Před 2 lety +6

      080921/1919h PST 🇺🇸 Normally Cu bars come in 20mmX250mm sizes. The thickness varies to either 3mm/4mm. Cu bars (99.95% pure) are available from AliExpress. The buyer cuts the bar to the requirement by placing the black (ready made busbar strip) parallel and measured and a template made out of thin cardboard. With that info, drawings were made on the Cu bar and precise location of bolt holes were marked. Centre Punch was used to make dent for the drill bit, to avoid wander. Remember his job was very precise and accurate and neat. I hope you understood.
      I apologize for talking on behalf of the Author. Stay safe and 73s…

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před 2 lety +1

      I purchased my bar from online metals the link is in the description. There are calculators online to determine the bar size, thickness and composition.

  • @frederick6008
    @frederick6008 Před 9 měsíci

    I made my own with a 3/4" copper pipe.

    • @mikemiller9891
      @mikemiller9891 Před 3 měsíci

      How many amps do you push through that pipe connection?

    • @740GLE
      @740GLE Před měsícem

      @@mikemiller98914gal/min at 50psi, lol

  • @pitstop8323
    @pitstop8323 Před rokem

    How will you stop the copper from oxidizing?

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před rokem

      Its been in operation for over a year and its not as shiny but has not oxidized as I have seen in a marine environment. Still looks like a copper bar!

  • @clooney3511
    @clooney3511 Před rokem

    Didbyou make the black bases too?

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před rokem +1

      No the black bases are these fuse holders amzn.to/3sQK5YH

  • @smetanavichlamanov8103

    Where/how? Did you get the black plastic platform with bolts Sir...? Cause I've made some various sized buss-bars and now don't know what platform/holder use to install them. I've been debating on using wood cause that's all I can think of to use to attach them to, but just think it looks a little tacky/sorta-ugly in a sense 🤕😂

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před 3 lety +1

      That black plastic is a fuse holder. Amazon item B01MYGIR2C I have also used thick Poly Cutting boards. I cut the poly on the table saw.

  • @daniele9160
    @daniele9160 Před 3 měsíci

    Hi, some advice, I need to extend an equipotential bar, is it possible to join it with two 8 bolts instead of doing it all over again? or is it not recommended? Thank you

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před 3 měsíci

      You could do that. But I don't recommend it. I would start over, using one solid bar, and design if for growth. Another possibility is using both sides of the current Bus Bar. But I don't know if that is possible in your application.

    • @daniele9160
      @daniele9160 Před 3 měsíci

      @@FrugalFactor then in reality I have to remove the fuse coming out of the battery to remove it after the shunt, so I would like to join the sending part with two 3mmx20 copper bars, making them touch each other for 5cm

  • @j.badinter988
    @j.badinter988 Před 2 lety

    Why making a wood template? You could have make your bus bar directly... Moreover your 2/8' hole is not centered. Again I don't see the point. No need for a sharpie, a blue tape is much better and do not require cleaning. Honestly, I don't see the point of this video, except to say "how to make things more complicated?"

    • @FrugalFactor
      @FrugalFactor  Před 2 lety +4

      I make templates for future builds. Blue tape would work fine, and even assist in removing some of the copper filings. Just not the method I choose. So, if you want a complex way of doing things watch my other videos :-)

    • @user-xl4xl2vy1j
      @user-xl4xl2vy1j Před 10 měsíci

      Find a life