Brand new Airfix 1/48 Sea King video build in 1440p . Part Three.
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- In this video we get the rear equipment assembled and fill in more holes. We also get the model temporarily glued together for the Avon show. If you would like to contribute to the channel.. please look here.. / nigelsmodellingbench
Outstanding so far
Nigel, your global productivity amazes me !
Thany you Nigel for another informative and very 'constructive' build I'm sure like lots of people I'm waiting for mine to arrive! Sea King in 1/48 such a good kit to produce well done Airfix. Keep up the good work Nigel it's much appreciated. Cheers
Glad to help
Great building. Been with you since the Vulcan.
As you only like facts and not I thinks, radars don't beep when they see a contact 😊
Thanks for that lol
Nigel you get the same marks on there Bond Bug. great video keep up your great work
Thanks 👍
Great video my friend the sea king is looking amazing the interior is very detailed looks like airfix has done a stunning job of this kit really enjoying following this build thanks so much for sharing 😊😊
Glad you enjoyed it
@@NigelsModellingBench why dont you put a big sheet or something over the cutting mat.?
or even under it.
Hi Nigel, the Seaking is starting to come together, you are certainly very dedicated to the project, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia 👍👍👍👍
Nigel, from my last recollection of a Sea King, that curtain was a dark blue, the interior walls were gray. This is the tricky part, it was a Canadian Air Force Sea King. You’re building a Royal Navy king.
Coming together nicely Nige, talk about detailed, just wish that Hasagawa had done the same with their kit.
Hi Nigel, I seemed to have a memory from flying on Mountain Rescue of the interior being mid blue gym mat type, not sure if they varied over time but this video should give you colour reference for the interior.
With the amount of videos you're releasing, you're giving me a problem Nige - I'm doing more watching than building!!
Sorry Phil. Ferret in Berlin Camo is coming...
@@NigelsModellingBench Is there an emoji that is both head in hands and smiling?! Great fun to drive despite the odd steering wheel...
I love your show! I don't know how you do it?!!!! Finnish up a project and jump right into a new one. You must have your mojo working, or something?!!! I salute you. It usually takes me a little while to start a new project, especially after a difficult or complicated build. Working on something easier in between helps. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, I have many projects on the go at any one time but have finished 6 this year.
Nice work looking good
Thanks 👍
Superb!
Thank you! Cheers!
G'day Nigel,
The Seaking has sound-deadning material on the inside of the cabin, not quite curtains but nonetheless you were close.
Dark Admiralty Grey was what was applied to the airframe structure - part of which is visible at the rear of the cabin door opening and where the fire extinguisher is stowed. Look carefully, and you can see that is actually quite a dark grey - also, the vertical pole to the right and seat framing to the left are DAG.
Sound-proofing varied in types of material and associated shades - look at the rear bulkhead, and there's shiny stuff used under something lighter and matt above. Similarly, the taut material used for the upper side and roofing panels is different to that lower down at the sides - for those, you can pretty much pick any shades of grey.
Thanks Annie. I think I got it somewhere handy?
Those whitish marks you noted are commonly the result of what happens at the cutting interface when all but the sharpest cutting tools are employed during desprueing. Actually, what happens is more akin to the effect of crushing some of the styrene from the blade's pressure against it. The whitish mark is typical of any color styrene in my experience. The effected area appears somewhat bleached and may extend to considerable depth into the piece you are freeing. The area immediately at the surface is very raw looking and often appears chewed up if you look closely. Normally, there is a small stump of sprue left at the cut point on the part, and we typically trim that off with a knife or sanding devise. Once freed of the pressure component of the cut, the bleached material is easily removed or greatly reduced in size and may not be noticed. I have never used any cutting tool that wouldn't leave this kind of witness mark on styrene, at least some of the time. When flush cutters are too dull, they will often take a small chunk of styrene out of the surface of the cutting point. This kind of damage is not fixable by merely sanding the area flush with the part's surface. I have learned to never cut exactly at the surface of the part so that any chewed up plastic does not extend down into the part's desired surface. The final trin is finished with a small file or mild sanding tools. Actually,
flsh cutters should be called flush crunchers because of what the end result looks like.
so
I know what you're talking about Larry, I don't think this is it. Even if i leave half a mm of sprue on the part then sand it off the mark remains, but it is hidden by a coat of paint. It is not a section pulled out, it is a white mark around the sprue gate??
Hi Nigel, the white marks on the plastic might be stress from cutting. Reach out for your single sided nippers and try using them to see if it's better. Also, try a new sharp conventional double-sided Tamiya nipper. Hope this sparks your engineering interest. Kind regards, Dave Porter London.
Its weird Dave, I have tried all sorts and the marks are still there? They remain after sanding and are not in the middle, they surround the sprue nib??
No idea on the interior colour but it may be specific to this one airframe at that point of its life. I believe all the versions in the kit are the same airframe.
The blue interior is partially shown in their interview video.
I doubt youtube will like a link but the video is called
Airfix | NEW TOOL Westland Sea King HAS.1/HAS.5/HU.5 1:48 Scale!
At time 2min 56 seconds you see a partial interior and in the bottom left you can see blue on the side. It could be that only one scheme had blue inside and probably while in civilian service. Blue doesn't feel right for a military aircraft.
I worked on this aircraft during the mid 1980 and can’t remember any blue soundproofing but it could just be that when I worked it it was in its grey phase
Iove how you explain all process of all the models on CZcams you billing +where too buy stuff from, can you let me no where you can get paint charts from too convert colours from different suppliers thank you phil 👍
Google is your friend buddy
@NigelsModellingBench OK thank you Nigel will have good look on Google, thanks phil 👍 😀
Funny how I believe I've had the white marks in every single piece I ever cut... I honestly brushed it off as stress marks due to an inferior quality nipper and/or plastic, I never bothered since often they disappear when I sand and then disappear completely when I paint.
I’ve never noticed them before. I always trim a few thou away and then sand or trim. With this you get a white mark around the sprue nib? Not an issue, just an observation.
Nigel there was no stand doing mr hobby paints
The white marks are caused by crazing of the surface.
Would you care to expand on that please?
@@NigelsModellingBench It's like a brittle fracture of metal creating a rough surface "This phenomenon is known as "stress-whitening". This is more common in amorphous materials, and also in some brittle polymers like PS, PMMA and Polycarbonate. The white colour is because of the light scattering by the crazes and changes in the refractive index of the area under stress"
Why the black cabin floor, I’ve worked on Seaking mk 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 42 and 42 b and never seen a black floor all grey
Primer..
Great video Nige, looking forward to getting my kit. Could I ask where you buy the plastic card I struggle to find it? thanks for you time.
I use Hobby-Lines on Ebay here in the UK.
@@NigelsModellingBench thanks ever so much nigel, have a great weekend!
Nigel, Technique question: What is the open working time for the VMS Flexi 5K, from the time you put some on the Pringles can lid until it becomes no longer usable (i.e., can no longer be applied with the the glue looper or the knife blade edge)? Thanks.
Depending on temp.. a long time,. around 30 mins.
I was wondering where did you get your paint reference cards? I just got back into modeling after years away.
They are from a very old line of Tamiya Magazines.
Hi Nigel- I am trying to build the Clear Hobby Sonia and the same “white sprue nib” issue is in that plastic. Weird.