Sharpening Magnacut - amazing steel. Let's see if we can put a great edge on it.
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2023
- Magnacut is a stainless steel that is empirically tougher than the majority of carbons steels on the market (pretty shocking for a stainless). It’s charpy testing scores similar to CPM 4v at equivalent HRCs for reference.
Sharpening every type of steel poses its own challenges. This steel can retain an extremely hard edge. You should be able to grind it very fine. You can take a while using regular stones. We went ahead and cut to the chase using CBN whetstones. We do then use ceramic and we finish on Japanese natural stones. We threw everything at it and got an amazing score. The knife was already very sharp when we got it. It was a challenge to see if we could do better. I think we did extremely well and yet I'm still looking forward to doing it again. The BESS score turned out to be amazing. We will continue to find out what this knife can do. Take it to its breaking point.
This knife was provided by Meglio Knives. Thank you to Brandon and the team over there for allowing us the opportunity to play with this type of steel.
We had our first Magnacut experience when Scott Gunn provided us with a team mule Spyderco Knife last month. That's really where we gained most of our experience, from messing around with that knife.
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Dang Greg have you been working out? You are looking jacked! 💪🏼 keep up the great videos brother.
Thank you sir. We’re working on it. Been doing this since September. Down from 254 pounds is 211. We are just below 18% body fat and we got a long ways to go. I appreciate you.
Hahaha I came here to say this! “Damn bro, you been working out?” Tshirt lookin tight, in a good way!
Keep it up!
@@KeeganDonovan thank you sir. I’ve been working hard since September.
I'm green with envy! Gotta get some Magnacut in the kitchen. Nice work on improving the results on the Bess. 👍 😃
Thank you
Great video brother,
Much appreciated brother.
Dang, Greg looking swole! Great video man!
Thanks brother. We’re getting there. I’ve been back in the gym since September. We’re down from upper 30% in the body fat down to below 18% body fat. Still have a while to go but I appreciate you. We’re gonna get back to where we once were.
@@nadm Yea brother I get it, takes hard work but you're putting it in. I have no idea where all the time goes and where I'd fit in a workout unless it was at 5AM. Get after it dude!
@@MrEmpirestate714 thank you 🙏
Here is a pro tip when it comes to these steels that have a significant vanadium % (and even niobium these days). When you go to sharpen on the low grits, you really don't need diamond or CBN stones. A low grit AlOx or SiC or ceramic stone will chew through the steel, as the abrasive size is much much larger than the size of the vanadium carbides. Think of it like a backhoe just gouging out the dirt, it doesn't care at all if there are rocks in mix.
But as you approach the finer grits, that is where CBN and diamond come into play, as the abrasive size of fine stones comes close to the size of the vanadium carbides, which are in the 1-5 micron range in these PM steels. In order to actually refine the apex, you have to deal with the vanadium carbides which are just barely softer than CBN, but much harder than AlOx, ceramic, and even SiC.
What is the % of vanadium in a steel where this becomes a concern? 3-4% vanadium. If your steel has 4% vanadium, use diamond or CBN in the fine grits. The Atoma 1200 and the DMT EEF diamond plates are excellent finishers. Personally, on kitchen knives, the 1200 Atoma followed by just a few swipes with a 1 micron diamond emulsion on leather is just the perfect combo for high vanadium steels. Not too refined, so we can utilize the vanadium carbides as little teeth as the steel matrix around them wears away during use. Much like ingot D2. I know meat processors who absolutely rave over ingot D2 (not CPM D2), because those large chromium carbides keep cutting as the steel matrix around them dulls, exposing the carbide.
you're one of the only guys leaving comments that make any sense. so cheers for that. it's rare thing to see anyone that actually knows their stuff talking shop, usually it's adolescent boys talking nonsense.
as for D2, I'm not a fan but CPM D2 on the other hand... maybe the best kitchen knife steel that exist. Tough as nails even at very high hardness and very fine grained... not stainless, but a lot of guys actually think that's a good thing for aesthetic on a kitchen knife. Also works fine with normal abrasives and stones... It's a shame it's so rare because this stuff is absolutely killer.
@@user-xf4es7eh9yI prefer K390 in the kitchen. Takes a super sharp and fine edge and holds it much longer than japanese paper steels for example. MagnaCut is fine too.
@@gorodph Almost anything has better edge holding than than traditional low alloy much less carbon steels. 66 hrc super blue doesn't even have close to the edge retention of 60 hrc vg10. But sure, k390 is an incredible knife steel. One of the best. But you're not going to find any kitchen knives with this steel outside of very low volume custom work.
@@user-xf4es7eh9y Well, I love K390. Actually, we have made more K390 chef's knives than any other knife maker or company on the planet. But, of course, Vanadis 8, CPM 10V and ASP 2053 are amazing too.
@@user-xf4es7eh9y Well, we have made more K390 chef's knives than any other knife maker/company on the planet. It really is an excellent steel. But, of course, other steel in the same class (Vanadis 8, 10V, and ASP2053) are fantastic too.
Lucky! I have the 10 inch and I love it. I am definitely going to get the 8 inch eventually 😊
I am enjoying it. My wife said it’s going to be here go to. We’ll see. I am reaching for it right now.
Good video! I think you mentioned this blade might become your wife's daily driver. If so, it would be awesome for you to retest that edge in a few months and see if the magnacut edge retention is all it's cracked up to be.
I can do something like that, but she’s not a person who grabbed a knife very often. She’ll ask somebody else to do it first.
Corrosion resistance, combined with toughness. [i.e., not chipping] is its claim to fame.
it's a kitchen knife dude. it doesnt even matter what steel it's made of. they make kitchen knives out of non alloy carbon steels like white steel that have as little "edge retention" as you could get and they're still great knives... because it doesn't matter that much. this isn't what makes a good kitchen knife. what makes it cut good is the grind geometry. and what really matters is the end user... the skill of user. anyone asking questions like this clearly has more to learn. how you actually use and maintain your knife determines everything. imho the knife in the video is a low quality, poorly made, over priced gimmick of a knife. much different from the classy and authentic stuff thats usually shown on this channel. this knife is more of something that would appeal to an adolescent boy.
also it's not like metallurgy is voodoo or that facts are open for debate. the properties of a given steel are established facts and well known. you're not making discoveries or doing science here. it's anecdotes of noob knife bros that basically the source of all the nonsensical mythology that floats around knife world. yes magnacut is an amazing steel, it's also an interesting and potentially very high performing steel for a kitchen knife, but none of that matters because it's not a thing that actually exists on any scale that you can go out and buy kitchen knives made of it. the knife in the video is over priced gimmicky junk for dummies.
My custom magnacut at 64 hrc is extremely good just love it
Very nice!
@@nadm yes sir i love magnacut i have a outdoor blade in it too at 63 its takes a beating
Wow, impressive!
I think a lot people would like to see the progress on test device after you finish on the last none JNS stone. Like after 6K you test it then strop again test and finally after JNS.
I understand. I’m sorry I didn’t do that for you.
@@nadm That was an idea for the future videos Greg. Thanks for all you r doing again :)
Magnacut is such a nice steel for kitchen knives, would love to see japanese knifes sanmai with a magnacut middle layer and soft stainless steel outer layers. Hap Stanley is a Person who really inspired me to go the way and open a sharpening Business, i hope i get the Chance to use his products some day.
Nice! I would love to see the same thing
Great demo on sharpening!
At first I was a little put off by the really visible grind lines on my Meglio MagnaCut gyuto. Actually returned it and got another one where the grind marks were less visible. Now thanks to your interview with Brandon I understand his purpose behind the grind marks. Nevertheless, it performs great. I think you will be seeing a lot more MagnaCut used in kitchen cutlery. It's now everywhere in the world of folding and fixed blade knives.
BTW, do you know Brandon's HRC on his MagnaCuts?
Hope to see you do some food prep demo with the Meglio, discussing how it performs, edge retention, corrosion, balance and feel in the hand. I've yet to see an analysis of how MagnaCut holds up in the kitchen.
Thanks for all the work!
I thought he might’ve said so in the video that we had out earlier at Blade show but I’ll also check his website because I think he’s a 64 but I can also ask him personally. I’m out of town on vacation so if you don’t see it in the last video. I posted that I’ll have to ask him. Just let me know but let me get time to get back to you.
its definitely not 64. thats for his custom work. it's 60 or 61 on these things. which are literally just a roughly grinded billet with a handle scewed into it. it blows my mind that anyone would consider even $100 for that thing. @@nadm
@@jeffhicks8428how could you possibly know the hrc and heat treat of his knives? It would make no sense to heat treat it to 60 when 63-64 can be easily Achieved without cryo.
@@thorwaldjohanson2526 try google.
Wow
I need to apologize for taking so long. I've had a surgery on my knee and some other things going on. We've had the court case for my car accident. We had to deal with that as well. We've also had some other major things happening personally. Deaths in the family and lots of arrangements to be made. Also, I'll let you know that I will be having another major surgery in June and will not be making it to the Blade show. I will be out of work for two weeks because I'm having all the extra skin cut off of my body. We do apologize for an interruption of videos if it were to happen. Will try to shoot some head for you guys so we can fill the space. That being said, thank you for checking out the show. Thank you for your support and your comment.
I have some Magnacut hardened to HRC 64.5 and "WOW" its a pain to sharpen. I have to use diamond because even the hardest natural stones basically just polish it. I have a few knives I bought from 'Vancil Messer Werks' and that dude gets the steel so HARD. The hard steel knives have been great to use and don't need to be resharpend often, thank god as long as I take care of the edge. I do like shallow angles and I use them on these hard steels.
I agree. I don’t really believe that we have to make them to Shiloh. It’s nice for cutting feel but if you get everything right, you should be fine and 15°.
Don't go too fine. Magnacut does not go to razor edge. Knife steel nerds talks about it in one of his videos.
He has beutiful knives on his site and realy nice prices for what they are. Got my eye onnthe 10in western or the pearing for a posible next knife purchase. Curently only have 1 stainless knife and its a takamura r2 130mm petty.
My wife grabs his knife all the time. The Takamura is amazing also but can be a little bit fragile.
Could you do an actual video review of this knife? I assume this is the "Version 2" gyuto that Brandon is selling on the website now?
I have been looking everywhere and I can't find a good choil shot of the knife. The one I did find seems to come from an older model and it was pretty thick behind the edge, not great. The grind looked like a flat grind as well, which is not preferred.
Hey buddy, I’m out of town on vacation. Hit me up on my Instagram messenger and I will shoot something personally for yourself
its an edc bro gimmick knife, seems like you already know this but for some reason you want to like it. literally dude this a billet of magnacut steel anyone could go online and order one at a time for $50 retail and then roughly grinded and then the "handle" gets screwed on. that's the knife. is it a good kitchen knife? no. should any reasonable or sane human buy this knife? no.
10:25 why are you changing knife orientation near tip to be more perpendicular to the stroke? It results in more even stone wear?
This is the opposite of Hap Stanley's style I believe.
So I’m an amazing knife sharpener on my own and I’m gonna continue to push different ideas. Different strokes in different. Scratch marks in different directions. I’ve just had a little bit more success recently with that and the tip is turned out really good. I don’t know if it’s any better, but I’m going to continue to try mixing up the different scratch directions, so I don’t really have a solid reason for you right now other than experimentation.
yeah, Greg, you Bane yoked. good on you dog!
I don’t know if I know what this statement mean so I apologize
@@nadmahaha stupid kids with their BS lingo these days.
Bane is a character in Batman: The Dark Knight Rises, played by an especially jacked (“yoked”) Tom Hardy. You look like an extra-jacked character played by an already-jacked actor. You look great, is what I’m trying to say with so many words.
@@mmllrjr so I knew the character was, but I wasn’t sure that you were saying what you were saying. I am working on it my friend. I’ve been killing at the gym since September. Trying to get back to the old Greg from several years ago when I competed in bodybuilding. I had an incident that I can’t talk about until the lawsuit is over that made me gain weight. But we’re working hard all the time. I appreciate you.
@@nadm well you’re clearly crushing it buddy, keep up the great work!
hope your suit is resolved in your favor. even if you did something bad, i’m on greg’s side. we’re on greg’s side.
@@mmllrjr thank you. I’m gonna let God handle it. I appreciate your support though.
Have you or anyone else used Naniwa diamond stones for a longer period? I wonder how they last on long term. They are almost $150/pcs so a set with few grits gets quickly expensive.
I have some Atoma plates (for lapping mostly) and after probably 10 years with lots of use they are still usable but really far from what a new one is. Even diamonds do wear and get removed from the surface.
I love them both. You can’t go wrong with the Atoma Plates. They’re a little bit Granier and they cut really well. But the Naniwa does go a little bit finer.
@@nadm I love Atromas for flattening stones and bringing up slurry. For somethink like $70 or so, Atoma 140 or 400 (or both : ) are well worth it, especially for harder stones.
I was more wondering about the finer grits in Naniwa tha I'm temted to try for sharpening (above 1.2k Atoma that I have).
@@hoggif There's an interesting Japanese company who specialises in vitrified diamond stones also, try searching for NSK diamond. I heard it's quite well regarded.
We don't need to see the number, can hear the sound of 45:38. Huge difference from the original sound
Thank you
What steel does Magnacut compare to, when it comes to ease of sharpening please?
it's got 3% vanadium. so even though it's very fine grained which does make it easier to grind, it's still got 3% vanadium. Vanadium steel is a nightmare to machine because vanadium carbides are hard asf. generally you don't find steels like this used in kitchen knives. the knife in the video is an obscure low volume niche thing made for edc bro dummies. normal kitchen knives are designed to be easy to maintain. What steel would I compare it to in terms of sharpening? The closest thing I'd say is s35vn. Yes it will grind on normal abrasives at courser grits, but you're going to want diamonds in order to get a good nice edge out of it.
@@user-xf4es7eh9ythat's a quite derogatory statement. While I agree that a magnacut kitchen knife is not for everyone and requires the correct tools to sharpen, some people enjoy it and then the steel is excellent in its properties.
@@thorwaldjohanson2526 the steel itself is excellent, but kitchen knives do not have high demands from steel, and this knife as a kitchen knife is terrible. other than the novelty of the hard to maintain steel you can find objectively better kitchen knives in terms of performance and ergonomics for literally 1/10th the cost. Ive a actually seen the knife. It's not a good knife. I am a skeptical by nature. I remember the first time I heard of steelport knives I was VERY skeptical as well, especially considering what they cost. Then I got to check one out and yes, they are very good knives. still over priced but actually a good knife. this meglio thing is not a good knife at all. and considering what it's made of it would be a nightmare to modify and regrind into a geometry that actually makes sense in a kitchen. someone should have told branded he was supposed to make a chef's kitchen knife and not a lumberjack Axe. real talk
It was definitely harder with that little bit of vanadium. I'm glad we got a sharper than even the company did. Also, the creator of the steel had commented that he didn't get it a sharp. So I'm glad we were able to do something.
Don’t forget to be careful lol
I need to apologize for taking so long. I've had a surgery on my knee and some other things going on. We've had the court case for my car accident. We had to deal with that as well. We've also had some other major things happening personally. Deaths in the family and lots of arrangements to be made. Also, I'll let you know that I will be having another major surgery in June and will not be making it to the Blade show. I will be out of work for two weeks because I'm having all the extra skin cut off of my body. We do apologize for an interruption of videos if it were to happen. Will try to shoot some head for you guys so we can fill the space. That being said, thank you for checking out the show. Thank you for your support and your comment.
Hello, the ei in schleifjunkies ist pronounced like the y in why! and schleifen means sanding or honing...
Thank you
40 is the target right?
Anything below 200 is great. If he gets up 100 then you’re doing fantastic. 50 is a razor blade. Anything below that is stupid. I’ve gotten several Knives down to 24 and 18 and 13. It takes a certain type of brain structure. I definitely believe I can still improve on this type of steel but it’s gonna take some more time to get used to it.
Now do something in Apex Ultra (I'm thinking anything from Modern Cooking or the sister site Birch and Bevel)
I want one of those so bad. It’s primarily used in Europe. Those makers are charging a little bit more right now then I can do. It’s not that I’m afraid to do it but I’m just kind of overextended right now. I’m definitely excited to get a hold of it.
@@nadm Excited to see your review as well. I'm interested in the high-end stuff and apex ultra in particular, but not having much money, will probably watch tons more videos, do more research, use my knives and cook more until I finally deem myself worthy of going custom a few years down the road. (Hopefully months though)
As a maker myself, the price of AU is off putting. And again, it is basically 52100 with a tad more wear resistance.
@@stuartdavenport2952 tad more is a big understatement. it is basically 52100 with a tungsten addition, that's true. but that's a whole new steel right there. it's harder but still tough, so you have ungodly edge stability and not just a tad more abrasion resistance, its stainless steels levels of abrasion resistance. Imagine AEBL that takes a patina and can easily go beyond 65 rc. does it really matter? I mean not really, but it's cool as shit.
Also, as a maker and user of kitchen cutlery, I don't really care for wear resistant steels for culinary use. Food is not abrasive. There is absolutely no need for a wear resistant steel in the kitchen. The more wear resistant a steel is, the harder it is to sharpen for people that don't own diamond or CBN products. Hardness and toughness are really what a kitchen knife needs, and corrosion resistance if that is a concern. Wear resistance....nope. Kitchen knives don't dull from abrasive wear, but rather by coming into contact with cutting boards, plates, etc, and the context of carbon steels....corrosion. For my money, the ideal kitchen knife steel is AEB-L or CPM154 at 63HRC+ if stainless is a concern. If it's not, then ANY carbon steel that has 0.8% or more carbon, hardened to 61HRC+ is plenty good in the kitchen, and I doubt 95% of users out there could tell the difference between 1084, 1095, or 52100 or any of the Hitachi or Swedish high carbon steels. Magnacut and steels like it just present sharpening challenges to the average home cook, and don't really hold an edge longer in the kitchen. Rope cutting and tasks that need wear resistance, that is when stuff like Magnacut comes into play. But I get it, it's the "new thing", it is VERY stainless, and people want kitchen knives made from it.
Chip resistance is what draws me to MagnaCut. Chippy kitchen knife irks me to no end.
I agree that basically the cutting board or bone is the only thing that’s going to affect the age of the knife. Typically, food is not going to be an issue, but the stainless steel cutting boards in certain kitchens as well as ultra hard cutting boards can be a problem, so if you can get the edge to last longer and be stainless while being ultra sharp then of course it’s amazing. Everyone’s Chasing The, Perfect Formula. We’re gonna basically have to find a new element on the planet to do anything new but this is a try.
contact with foods and cutting surfaces 100% does dull the edge from abrasion. even on a casual basis anyone can observe this with a basic steel like white #2. the fine edge just goes smooth and loses so called "bite" as the well formed acute apex is rounded out and largened. The question is how much do you need for a normal kitchen use cycle? Also if we talk about what, well the foods themselves are dulling by abrasion, but largely it's the cutting surfaces. woods are much better than plastics which just destroy steels with abrasive wear. but even woods cause abrasion to the fine edge. again.. we're talking about an apex, the fine edge, the part that initiates the cut or allows for push cutting. the actual cutting is result of the geometry. thats not the issue. How much abrasion resistance you need is based on how you use and maintain your knife. How much do you need though? Not much. AEBL is one of my favorite steels and it doesn't have much, nor do you need much, just based on how you use and maintain the knife. Magnacut is very similar to AEBL imo but with twice the real world edge retention if not more. Both are able to get quite hard and stay quite tough, excellent edge stability and fine grain.
It’s clear you’re quoting Larrin Thomas verbatim. While that’s not a bad thing, you’re kinda playing it off as a know-it-all and that you came to those conclusions on your own accord. Larrin wrote those articles about AEB-L before he created MagnaCut. Not even he knows the extent of Magnacut’s capabilities. These type of things take long-term testing and tinkering by large companies with a lot of money. Which is exactly what it took for AEB-L to be perfected for the razor industry. It’s very well possible that MagnaCut would be an even better steel for the razor industry (and the kitchen) than high-hardness AEB-L, we just don’t know yet. MagnaCut is not JUST a high wear steel. It’s also an extremely tough steel. Compared to AEB-L, MagnaCut has only a %22 decrease in toughness, but a whopping %67 increase in wear-resistance. “Food is not abrasive” has to be the laziest statement that I’ve heard. It certainly is. Maybe not as abrasive as rope, but comparing food to one of the most abrasive materials possible does not make your point. It also depends on what food you’re talking about. We talking a few tomatoes or 50 lbs of cutting through sinew and tough connective tissue. There are many abrasive foods around the world and in different industries that you don’t use in your particular home kitchen. Also, these steals are not just made for home cooks and makers of kitchen cutlery, it’s also made for industrial use. For someone skinning cows six hours a day in a beef processing plant. It also applies to a lot of things outside the kitchen. And FYI: Magnucut is not just the “new thing”, it’s actually quite a revelation in metallurgy. You would be saying the exact same thing when AEB-L and CPM-154 came out: “what’s wrong with 420HC, my grandpa’s been using his Buck 110 for 50 years and he ain’t never felt he needed no better steel”. You don’t sound like someone that’s interested in science and the progression of the industry. Kinda sounds like you just wanna complain. So I think you need to get out of your personal bubble and be a little more introspective.
Larrin Thomas from the article “How to Pick the Best Steel for Every Knife”:
“Note 2/19/2021: Since writing this article my suggestion for “medium” stainless has changed from CPM-154 to CPM MagnaCut”
“High Wear Cutting Applications
Some knives will be used for extended cutting sessions where resharpening is not feasible or at least undesirable. Skinning knives are one example where resharpening during a skinning session would not be practical. Or someone with a job where a large amount of material needs to be broken down each day. In some cases customers simply prefer sharpening less frequently, or who don’t find sharpening more wear resistant steels particularly onerous. Some knives don’t need much toughness for the fine cutting tasks they will see (or a careful customer) and therefore more edge retention will provide more performance. My recommendations for these applications are the steels in the “High Edge Retention” row including 10V when corrosion resistance is not necessary, or CruForgeV at high hardness for forging bladesmiths. 4V/V4E can have very high edge retention at high hardness. M390 is my recommendation when stain resistance is desired, and Vanax or S110V for more extreme corrosive environments.”
“Thin Edges
Knives with thin edges require high “edge stability” which is a combination of high hardness to avoid rolling and high toughness to avoid chipping. A fine carbide size helps to achieve these properties. Knives with thin edges have the benefit of having the best cutting abilityand the best edge retention. A thinner edge also requires less material removal during sharpening. These knives include kitchen knives, straight razors, and fine slicers. Optimal steels include AEB-L and 52100. For a bit more edge retention CruForgeV, 4V/V4E, or Z-Wear can be used. All of those steels can achieve 64 Rc or higher with proper heat treatment along with good toughness.”
***Magnacut has the same toughness and edge-retention as 4V, so it would now be included in the group above.
Nice video Greg, try using less pressure on the return stroke. You done want to remove the angle you created on the pushing stroke. Also, you prob could do a lot less of a progression and still get it shaving sharp. Also, use three fingers to test the sharpness not two. Best to you!
What's the advantage of 3 fingers vs 2?
@@l26wang more surface area. Also you shouldn’t be able to slide a sharp knife at all, should immediately bit into the fingerprint and using three fingers gives more feedback and control. Murray Carter method of testing. Also, knives will alway feel sharper some time after sharpening when your fingers have proper time to dry so what might not feel scary sharp after sharpening will usually feel sharper after. Cutting paper doesn’t tell you much as it’s mostly based on technique and doesn’t tell you how well it will actually cut food. Go for a lime, that will truly be a good test, red bell pepper skin is another good test.
Thank you for commenting. I appreciate your criticism. Hap Stanley does three fingers. Ryan Swanson sometimes does three and sometimes goes to. Everyone’s got their own thing. Japanese knife Imports will push and pull in both directions to sharpen a knife. There’s a lot of information out there. I’ve had success with all of it. I’m going to continue refining everything, but I’ve had tremendous success at being sub 50 on the BESS. a lot of times I’ll grind off metal at the beginning with strokes in each direction and then refined the edge with edge leading strokes. Bob Kramer and I had a big discussion about Edge leading strokes being minutely better. Finishing with dropping strokes because of knife grinders research. Don’t do edge leading after AK because the edges two week. Lots of science out there going on. Sometimes I don’t talk about this enough on the show.
@@nadm "after AK"?
friendly note: it was an error in stropping, you missed the heel of the blade on one side on almost every stroke
I’ll have to go back and look at it. I’ve been out of town on vacation. Not something I normally do is mess. Generally the hill is the sharpest plays on the knife when I’m done with it.
@@nadmno worries. you were trying to figure-it-out-loud in the video so thought i’d give you an outsider’s perspective. keep up the good work buddy and happy independence day!
41:30
such a terrible steel for a kitchen knife. I don’t care how long the edge lasts. It’s total hype. why would you want something where you’re cutting and chopping against the cutting board just because it holds a little bit longer edge, but it takes you a half hour to sharpen it from dull? nope….
I rather have less hardness and be in and out of the sharpener in five minutes.
Great video Greg, thank you. What kind of abrasive do this nano hone stones use? I've been told that vanadium carbides will only be cut by cbn and diamond because of their hardness. Aluminum oxide and silicium carbide will not grind them. Same goes for any kind of natural stone. I might be wrong.
I will have to ask Hap Stanley when I get a chance. I’m out of town. I will try to remember to ask him. I’m sorry I’m traveling.
they're ceramic alumina like everything else on the market. also what you heard is wrong. silicon carbide will grind any steel just fine. alumina works too, but only in courser grits. TO GET the most out of vanadium steels most folks agree you're going to want diamonds. But like I said, SIC does work. but good luck finding silicon carbide stones finer than like 2k. it doesn't exist.