2001-2006 Chrysler Sebring Coolant outlet housing D.I.Y. 2.7 liter V6
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- GT shine products: gtshine.com/pr...
Coupon Code: HELPINGHAND
-- Check out my NEW channel: / @knownworldwide
--------------- Hello guys! Here with another DIY on replacing the infamous Chrysler 2.7 coolant outlet housing. This housing is found on the 2001-2006 Chrysler 2.7 liter V6 models. This particular car is a 2001 Sebring LXi model. This is a very straightforward procedure with no special tools required to get the job done. I must apologize for the wind in some case throughout the video and also having to move the camera from time to time. This channel is still developing and as time goes on I will be investing in more equipment to make my delivery more stable! I do hope that this video helps you guys out!
Also If you missed my last video about the nissan 240sx please make sure check that out as I also mentioned a giveaway that I will be having for my loyal subcribers!
You can see that video here: • 1991 Nissan 240sx Upda...
Please feel free to ask any questions you have in the comment section below hit that like button and **DON'T FORGET TO SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE AWESOME CAR REPAIRS!**
Thank you so much!!! I just flushed my heater core because its winter in Massachusetts and in the process snapped a hose off this little fella. Welp that had to be fully replaced. I got the job done in under 50 mins thanks to your video!!! Im no mechanic but now I have heat and no COOLANT LEAKAGE!!!
Good for you.
Thank you so much! I automatically assumed that the thermostat would be in that housing so you saved me a lot of time and frustration. Not looking forward to changing the thermostat, but thank you for such a great step by step video with real time.
I am not a mechanic but after watching your video I feel I can accomplish that task. with confidence
Rudolph Brewster Awesome! More power to you sir!
Dont apolgize for moving the camera, that's what I wanted! Step by step detailed video in real time. This is gonna save me a lot of money.
Thank You. Your vid allowed me to fix this today as steam started coming from my hood. Initially, I thought a hose clamp was loose, but turns out the housing cracked or wasnt sealed anymore somehow. Only took me a couple hours to fix.
Thanks man! Great vid! I'm new at fixing my vehicle up but I'm getting better and better at doing it myself. Did a tie rod last time, and now this. Couldent have done it without you. Keep it up
Thank you so much for this video mine is going bad and I wanted to see what the job entailed you did great
Having this problem with my car now thanks for the video
I think he didn't bleed it and possibly there was air bubbles in coolant. There were several codes came up p0601, p0700, and p0605. I'm researching on the internet but you video popped up. You did a very good job on self explanatory. Thanks again
Joanna Lavergne Well if you say there is oil leaking out at the rate you say is very alarming to say the least. If it is in fact OIL and not COOLANT leaking then bleeding procedure won’t matter as you now need to find where the OIL leak is coming from. If there is a COOLANT leak still coming from the engine then that will need to be tracked down as well. Sorry I am trying to help you out as best as I can with the information you’re giving me.
As far as the engine codes you have given me those will have nothing to do with the leaks. P0601 and 605 are PCM failure codes. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep have had a string of bad PCM in the past. Unfortunately the only way to solve these codes is to have the PCM reprogrammed or replaced and reprogrammed. PCM standing for Powertrain Control Module. Basically the computer that runs the engine. You may not get any symptoms of this as the car will probably still run, gauges will work etc. However it will need to be addressed. As far as P0700 goes that is a generic Transmission fault code stating that the TCM (Transmission Control Module) has detected a fault in the transmission system. Now this could mean that the TCM itself is bad, faulty/shorted wiring between the TCM and the transmission, or there is a faulty sensor within or on the transmission that is causing this code to be brought up.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepairi think i have the problem you Just say. I Just put the machine in autopart and they show
Replace engine coolant temperature sensor
And in the diagnostic trouble codes
P1607 battery backup line TCU
PCM internal shutdown timer
Then secondary DTC
P0452
P0335
P0884
P0562
P0700
Hung up the tie went out to the driveway after watching this video & totally handled it thank you sir🤘😎🏆
Ayyyeee!
I hope I'm not too late, but, thank you, bro.... Great video and a life saver!
Thank you! (My 2002 Sebring is always available for any of your future videos... Wink Wink!)
This video absolutely help me take off my housing to switch out my housing unit cuz I had temperature problems thanks a lot for the help
Thank you for this video!! VERY helpful!
Dirty pigs at Chrysler hiding those bolts under the intake. The possibilities for intake gasket problems are endless following something like this - But I believe that's the bread & butter of the dealership service centers. Louses.
Thank you👍👍
Thanks so much. That is an aweson vid.
Do you have any vid replacing Engine Coolant Temperature sensor? For chrysler too 2008
Thank you
Tankyou man
Very good video! Far superior to most.
Love the how to, it made it easier.
It's a great video but the only concern I would have is what happens if one of those plenum gaskets sticks to the lower intake and comes out. The chances of it happening is probably very low, but it will be unpleasant if it does.
If it sticks that’s fine. It will be exactly where it should be.
very, very helpful. Thanks for posting!
You're welcome!
Thanks mans worker for me
No problem 👍
Very helpful video I feel I can do this now thanks
Great video 👏
I do not use the replacement temp sensor that comes with the replacement part as they are very inaccurate. I use the old sensor on the new housing. I also remove the entire part with the 4 bolts still in it as one could fall into the intake and be impossible to fish out. Make sure to clean the plenum (red seal under manifold) before re-seating intake manifold.
Stephen Davis
1. New temp sensor is NOT inaccurate. It works just fine lol.
2. Pull the bolts out or not it’s entirely up to you. I have never dropped one. Maybe you shouldn’t rush.
3. The plenum sealing will not be an issue.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair - I have replaced several of these on my 2.7L engines. The aftermarket temp sensors always seem to misread. I've found that just using the original sensor works every time. I don't chance the bolts dropping into the intake of the engine. Seen it happen and the person was not in a rush. Even on your video at 9:30 there is debris all over the red seal of the intake, which can affect the performance. I was just passing on some hard -learned knowledge. Sorry I wasted my time to just get attacked for it.
Word
Extremely helpful. Thanks!
Brittany Davis thanks! I'm glad this video worked for you!
My housing basically melted at the heater port and broke off at the main upper hose, thought my rad fans wasn't working, come find out they were.
Replaced plastic housing and replaced both high and low fan relays along with 40 amp fan fuse, still seams like it's hot, I can't touch the upper hose because it's so hot, is that normal?
Water is circulating and both fans turn on
sadly, i'm having one very hard time lifting up the intake manifold enough to get sufficient clearance to remove that 4th 8mm bolt ~ a totally miserable design by the Chrysler engineers to have the manifold cover (without cutouts) over the outlet housing to create inadequate room for socket tool access to the back bolts ~
I completely agree with you. You can fully loosen all the manifold bolts but just leave them in the holes (or take them out) and that should allow you to prop the manifold up some more. Provided you followed everything else in the video.
in the process of replacing the coolant housing now, on My 2005 Sebring, I managed to, painstakingly remove the bolt from under the manifold with an open end...took forever very little bit at a time, flippin the wrench back and forth to make a grab...grrrr
Reversing the procedure would be almost impossible.
loosening the manifold and raising it seems to be the answer, My concern is what about unknown debris that may fall between the gasket and surfaces? And the torque specs and sequences are hard for me too find. Have You had any issues with vacuum leaks or pressure problems?
Whoever engineered this, and the battery placement was probably laughing, thinking of the day someone has to change these! hahaha
any tips would be appreciated.
Good job nd thank you
Jerome Dunkley you’re welcome
Hey! I hope this will work for me. My mechanic is telling my engine is done over this issue. He wouldn’t take temp sensor out because housing is plastic.
I am loosing coolant but haven’t looked at housing. 😳 no other signs of leaks. Does the sensor come with the housing in 2002 or can you change sensor without breaking housing.?
If the car is loosing coolant and you can’t see it physically leaking somewhere for sure, the engine is most likely consuming the coolant meaning that your head gasket could be compromised.
Yes you can buy the housing and temp sensor together. Mine is plastic housing. My mechanic said my engine was toast as well and all it was is the temp sensor.
Great video.thanks
Redjeb thanks sir! Glad this was helpful!
In the video changing the water Outlet housing I was just curious as to where you purchased the part for it and how much it cost you
You can buy it at the local parts store. It’s probably around $50-70
2006 Sebring convertible: over heating was the 1st problem. I first checked the for water in the oil...none. Then changed oil and filter to make sure nothing is clogged causing it to over heat because there wasn't any fluid leak. My dumb self then squeezed the hose and no water flow. And could see dried fluid sprayed on motor from the coolant bleeder. So I replaced the coolant outlet housing. Now the coolant is draining out from behind the belts where the water pump is located, But I'm not sure if it's flowing down from above. Any thoughts before I have to tear down the motor to replace the water pump?
Wendy Dee A coolant leak from this outlet housing should be easy to spot. If you put on a new housing and gasket then the leak shouldn’t be coming from the housing. You will just have to look closely as the engine is running to see where the leak is coming from. Sorry there is no for sure way for me to tell you yes or no.
Great job with the camera movement. This is my third time changing the housing. Is this a flawed product or what?
If you keep buying the same brand housing then you should have switched it up to a different housing.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair what is the procedure for bleeding the system? I turned on the bleed valve. The car was idling for 15 minutes and the heater continued to blow cold
Not sure if the exact process. Starting with a cold engine, turn heat to max hot, fan speed to about the middle. Open up the bleed screw and Fill up the radiator. There should be no bubbles coming out of the bleed screw when you are done filling up the system. When there are no more bubbles coming out, close the bleed screw and fill up the system until the radiator is full.
Start the car up and let it idle. Fill up the radiator if it starts to go down. Put the radiator cap back on after about 5 mins or so. Then let it warm up until to normal temp. It helps to rev the engine up to about 1500-2000 rpm when you put the cap back on. Hold it there for about 10-15 seconds.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair OK thank you
not sure why you had to replace the housing other then the small leak ?
Hello. Sorry for my english. I buy this part and I'm ready to fix it but my question is : what symptom is when it's broken,I mean this part?
Leaking it's a symptom what u see,but I need know what's happent more .
Leaking and overheating.
Thanks!!!
What if u changed that and the thremast and u can't get it to bleed all the air out and wants to run hot now and it wasn't before?
You’re going to need to make sure you get all the air out of the system.
What symptoms would i expect if this housing is bad? Just small leaking?
Fred Grandt Yes you will see leaking as shown in this video. You will also noticed dried up coolant (the white residue) near the housing. If you let it go too long you risk overheating the engine. You should change it ASAP if you suspect it leaking.
The vidio really helped thank you
No problem.
Are you still out there! I have a strange problem with my 02 sebring 2.7. The overflow tank never gets pressurized. I've replace the original cap with a pressure relief lever cap and it still does not pressurize. Fortunately , there isn't any cooling issues. No loss of fluid, no leaks, fluid looks great. The interior gets heat. the temp gauge is two ticks up from cold during normal temps after warmup max. Same when it's cold out. It takes about 15 minutes to start warming up the interior on a cold day. When it hot it's almost at midway. I'm not sure why there is no pressure.
Milton Bradley Voice of the Mummy Thermostat May be stuck open.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair so that would stop the pressurization? Or just the cooling temp?
Milton Bradley Voice of the Mummy The car seems like it’s taking too long to get up to the correct operating temp. That would suggest the thermostat is stuck open. Replacing that should get the temps to warm up quicker.
As far as the system not pressuring you have something going on:
1. Coolant leaks, these can be hard to spot as if coolant leaks say on the back of the engine where you can’t see it then you would assume there isn’t a leak. Also a leak could be small enough to have dried up before it could even get the chance to run down the engine to the ground.
It would be best to use a pressure tester to confirm there isn’t a leak for sure.
2. Possible that the thermostat was replaced with a colder unit? If the car was just bought and has always ran this cold maybe the previous owner installed a colder thermostat.
3. Bad radiator/expansion tank cap. We have all see brand new parts fail right out the box. Or at least I have. If that one is suspect then it will certainly allow pressure to bleed off constantly.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Ok, I'm trying to sum this up and not create more of a problem with this 02 car. I try and keep it maintained as it's an occasional use car. So, at this point everything is running 100% except this odd cooling issue.
So, there may be an issue with it not pressurizing and the TS might be stuck open. Maybe the new cap or the tank might have a leak stopping pressurization. I've looked at the cap stem and don't see anything.
Q- will this lack of pressure stop circulation through the engine? I don't see any movement in the tank just a little warm evaporation when i take off the cap. The tank does get very warm just like the hoses around it after running. When the car is not running, the expansion tank is at the full MAX line. When the car is running and warmed up the fluid in the tank raises a couple of inches. It goes back down when it's cool. Again, the coolant looks clear green in this case and does not lose any fluid. I haven't put fluid in this in at least a couple of years. There aren't any whitish staining anywhere.
The water pump was replaced 30k miles ago. I'm assuming that if the pump was failing or slightly failing, the engine would be overheating. Does that make sense?
So maybe just to see I could replace the expansion tank and change the thermostat to see if that works. As anyone might comment - it's not broken, leave it alone.
Milton Bradley Voice of the Mummy
Ok, I like your response so far. The coolant level is doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing while sitting off and when it’s warm. The level rises and falls. One could argue that you would want to see at least some movement within the tank assuring you that the water pump is working. I wouldn’t worry about it though.
As far as I can tell, nothing should be replaced at all.
Pros:
Coolant level rises and falls as it should based on getting hot and cold, no leaks, coolant color is consistent, no overheating, heat blowing inside the car.
Cons:
-Well, honestly I cannot call one specifically as the car is working as it should.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Yep, pretty common failure point. Replaced a few myself on our cars.
So this part on my car split in half do you think it's just this part that needs replacing or this and the thermostat as well?
You can replace the thermostat since you’re there. They are cheap and that way you know it’s done.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks I bought both parts. Replaced just the coolant outlet housing. Thanks to you. Thermostat was still working was a little intimidated about the thermostat
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I bought both parts. But only changed the coolant housing thanks to you. Was a little intimidated about the doing the thermostat. Plus it was 100 degrees in Minneapolis last weekend. I'll do it when I can get in a garage hopefully this weekend. Thanks for the video and the response.
I had this replaced and is receiving codes P0125, P0118, P0301, P0302 , P0300 and for some reason when I start it up it’s loud and then it starts squeaking and the fans turn on immediately and blows out really good under hood but after awhile of car being on smoke starts coming out from hood and just a bit not like it use to be. Before the part got fixed I need a new valve cover gasket the guy at Midas said it was dripping on the intake I have oil inside the spark plugs and I guess there bad from what he said
Replacing the thermostat AND properly filling and bleeding the coolant should solved P0125 and P0118.
The misfire codes can potentially be caused by oil inside the spark plug wells from the leaking valve cover gasket. What I would do to start about solving the misfires is to delete all the codes. Properly bleed the coolant system (heater on max hot, fan speed on the slowest setting)
After that is done, go for a easy drive and see what codes come back. If they are the same misfire codes, then buy 6 new spark plugs and replace them. If the old ones are covered in oil, or you see oil on them or your spark plug socket, replace the valve cover gaskets.
Hola Buenas noches, una pregunta Amigo, el Sebring V6 motor 2.7L trae un solo Sensor de Temperatura ECT.!!?? según he leido, el 2.4L si trae 2 Sensores de temperatura. ECT. Gracias de antemano. Saludos.
Algunos motores tienen un sensor para el calibre.
Algunos motores tienen un sensor para la computadora.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Vale, muchas gracias por su respuesta.
Hi my Sebring 2.7 is overheating from bottle water but temperature gauge low
Might want to try a new radiator cap first and then rebleed the system
Very helpful Thanks!!!!!!!
Charles Smith you are very welcome!
I have a 2006 Searing when I'm driving at 40mph or more when I make a right hand turn you can hear a loud noise coming from the driver's side front end and don't no what it could be , help please
Hard to know without actually hearing it. Probably suspension related
Probably control arm/ball joint assembly. Common flaw with the Sebring.
I have a question.. The thing that you set your coolant cap on there's a big screw mine is crooked what is that? Thank you for the video..it was a great help!
FUJILU that’s the strut mount. The long threaded piece is the top of the shock coming through.
great video, but how do you bleed it?
It’s been awhile since this video. I believe, fill up the radiator and crack this bleed screw open that’s on top of this housing shown in this video. Keep pouring in coolant until you see a stream of coolant come out of the bleed screw. You will see bubbles and such but make sure there are no more bubbles and then you can close it back tight.
After that, top off the radiator until it is full and then start the car with the cap off and let it warm up (around 10-15 mins) make sure you have the heater on full hot inside the car and the fan on about medium speed.
Just fill up the radiator as needed and once it’s been running for about 10 mins, you can loosely put the radiator cap back on and let it idle for another 5 mins. At that point, close the cap and take it for a drive. Get the rpms up a little higher than you normally would drive to help the water pump circulate the coolant around and help get the air out.
Come back home and let the car sit for a few hours and then check the coolant level in the radiator and fill it up as needed.
temperature sensor location coolant
He didn't say how to bleed the coolant and how much to run it first or what???
There is a bleed valve on top of this part you are replacing. Open it up. Pour coolant into the system. It should start bubbling air from that bleed valve. Keep pouring in coolant until that bleed valve has a solid stream of coolant coming out (no more air bubbles)
Then close that valve right and top the system off.
Start the car up, turn the heater to max hot, turn the fan to the lowest setting and leave the radiator cap off. Let the car idle for about 10 mins or so. Then you can put the cap back on and let it idle until it comes up to normal temp.
Or you can use a flexible extension that works also
My bottom hose connector broke off into the bottom hose .
Do I need a whole new one or is there a connect to help that only
Just break it out of the hose. The plastic is stuck in there right? If so just carefully squeeze that hose end with some pliers and that will break the hose inside and then just pull the pieces out.
Make sure you face the hose down so the pieces don’t fall into the hose.
is it ok that i didnt drain fluid past the bottom of overflow tank before topping off and bleeding out air?
It’s fine
How much should a reputable garage service charge for a replacement of housing outlet.
Debbie Silva I am not sure of the labor rates in your area. However here in California where I’m at the rates range from $120-180/hour. I would put this job at least 2 hours “book time” so that is $240-$360 in labor alone plus say $35 for the part. So I would say in the neighborhood of $250 to no more than $400 should be a fair range.
Honestly if it is over $375 I wouldn’t go there unless the general averages of the shops around you is $375. This job is very easy and straightforward to do yourself if you can turn a wrench.
Took mine to a back yard garage and it was 150 with a brand new thermostat and they even replaced 2 hoses so it just depends where you go..
Help I broke one of the bolts inside of it what do I do
Inside of what?
did you change this part because it was over heating ?
It was leaking. Which will lead to overheating
Hello I'm hoping that you can answer my question within a few hours but right now I'm trying to connect my gate hose to that thing but when I looked at your video the connecting part I'm sorry I'm not really used to this but that connecting part that connects to the gate house it looks shorter than the video that you have mine looks shorter than yours your sister's a little bit longer will that be an issue for me to connect because my gate hose keeps popping out and no matter how hard I tie in it it keeps popping up maybe it's because of the the thingy
I’m sorry, it’s a little difficult to understand what you’re referring to.
You replaced the coolant housing and now your hoses are too short?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair so are we placed the gate house with a new one along with a new clip but that part of the water pump is shorter that's what I'm saying do you think that's the reason why my gate hose keeps popping out?
@@destinyespinoza7902 what is a gate house?
If you replaced the thermostat housing and now you’re hose doesn’t fit, something is wrong. If you got a new hose and it’s too short, it’s probably the wrong hose.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair yes I replaced the thermostat and everything else but I keep tightening it where the water pump is at but it keeps popping out and I noticed my water pump is shorter than the one that you have in the video do you think that the reason why my thermostat keeps popping out because of how short my water pump is
I didn’t do anything with the water pump in the video. So if you did something with your water pump, then you may have an incorrect part or the wrong hose.
I have the same vehicle but my problem is that even after changing the housing and radiator it still leaks coolant and oil. It literally leaks a quart of oil or more while it's idling. What can cause this? Please help!!! Thanks
Joanna Lavergne If you’re leaking oil that is a different issue. You will need to find the source of that leak. Same thing with the coolant leak. You will need to find both leaks. Then address them.
Easy job but wait till you gotta saw a piece of the new corner off....too tall and jacked up intake......tightest fit ever
I just wanted to know is a 2006 Sebring touring edition a good car?
Francisco Alvarez I personally don’t like any Sebrings. Not very reliable
Thank you for Video! I followed your every tip just like that we are good to go BUT I am receiving a CHECK ENGINE light. I took it to AutoZone and I receive error P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. Do you think I have to reset codes?
Cha One You either didn’t plug in the temp sensor on top of the housing all the way, a wire is cut or broken, or the sensor has failed.
Nice video! Couple things though, where did you buy the coolant housing, and can you explain how to drain the coolant? It was hard to hear that part. Thanks!
Joel Gajdos Coolant housing is from Orielly auto parts. Coolant drain plug is located on the passenger side of the car. Must jack the car up to see it on the bottom of the radiator.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Ok cool! do you need to drain the radiator in order to replace the housing? If you have to, can just pour back the coolant into the reservoir from the top opening on the left? lastly, if I need to order the housing from a different source, there shouldn't be an issue with sizing or fitting, it's a universal fit right?
Joel Gajdos You need to drain some of the coolant at the very minimum. You just need to drain the coolant down below the level of the housing. I would just drain the radiator until it’s mostly done draining.
2. If you drain the coolant into a CLEAN container you can reuse it.
3. If you order the correct housing for the car you will have a part that fits. These are not universal but there are many companies who make the same part.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair gotcha! Ok I think I should be good to go. Thank you for your help, just saved me alot of money not having to go to the shop!
Joel Gajdos that’s what I’m here for!
The wind noise is awefull
Debbie Silva I know, I’m sorry this was filmed before I had a camera and a mic. This was filmed with my iphone. Very sorry
Okay. I have all the screws in the intake loose, but I still don’t have enough room. The intake seems to be stuck on something. It’s loose, but it won’t lift up high enough. What am I doing wrong?
Maybe double check to make sure you have all of them taken off. I didn’t actually lift the manifold completely off the car but just lifted the side near the coolant outlet and stuck a screwdriver under it to keep it lifted up.
Helping Hand Auto Repair all the screws are lose, but a few of them won’t come out even though they’re loose. After they were loose I tried pulling them out with a needle nose pliers.
dogman780 you don’t need to pull them completely out. As long as they are no longer threaded into the holes. I’ve clearly shown the locations of all the bolts holding the manifold down. If the manifold is loose go ahead and pull up on the manifold on the side just enough to stick the screwdriver where I have it at. Sometimes manifolds stick some. Unless there is some other bracket holding down your manifold that was not present on this car it should just come right off.
dogman780 Remember the goal is just to raise it up slightly not completely take it off.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair what happens if you completely take it off ?
But the car won’t start without a jump now at first it was fine
How do u bleed out the air
Mike T Oh man I may have forgotten on this particular car. I will give you my best advice though. You see there is a air bleeding nipple on the top of this outlet housing. I would crack that open and unscrew it a little as to let air escape the system. Open the coolant reservoir cap and pour in the coolant while squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses. Keep pouring until you see a nice stream of coolant coming out of the nipple on top of the coolant outlet housing. Once coolant comes out smoothly close that nipple. Continue filling the reservoir until you reach the full mark. Start the car turn the heater to fill hot and middle fan speed. Allow the car to idle while keeping an eye on the coolant level in the reservoir. Top off as needed. Let idle for 10 mins then close the reservoir cap and go for a drive. You should be getting good heat from the vents. Come home let the car sit for 2-3 hours to cool down and rechecked and top off coolant.
Can u it without a themostat a 2 7
Michael Mccammon I’m sorry what?
Can u run it wothout a themostat
Michael Mccammon you can but it’s not designed to work that way. The engine would take too long to warm up and in some case never warm up and will give you a check engine light for thermostat temp below regulating temp.
What does he mean by “bleeding” it at the end?
By bleeding I mean you need to first loosen that brass bleed screw right on top of the new coolant outlet housing you just installed. Just loosen it don't take it completely off. Next you will need to fill up the coolant reservoir located to the left of the coolant outlet housing. Once the system is filled enough air will be escaping that bleed screw you loosened up via air bubbles. Once you start to see a steady stream of coolant coming out of that bleed screw then tighten it back up and start the car and let it come up to normal operating temp. Shut the car off and let it cool down for a few hours then come back and top off the coolant as needed.
Helping Hand Auto Repair ok I bled it. Still taking forever to go to normal. Temp gauge is in between the 2nd and 3rd line.
dogman780 Some cars will take longer than others to get to normal operating temp which is ok. If after 15-20 mins the car you feel is still taking too long to warm up you can taking it around the block to speed things up just be easy on acceleration (ie don’t floor it to redline)
So there is no thermostat in an 06 Chrys!er Sebring? I thought it was behind the alternator
JL Jenkins Hi, on your car it is located behind the alternator. You need to remove the alternator to gain access to the thermostat housing (black plastic housing with two hoses connected to it) Remove this housing and replace the thermostat.
What about the serpantine belt?
JL Jenkins yes you will need to jack the car up, remove the wheel and inner fender lining. Remove the serpentine belt and the remove the alternator.
Why remove the belt? For room and leverage?
JL Jenkins If you have the 2.7L 2006 sebring you need to move the alternator out of the way in order to take off the thermostat housing. The belt needs to come off in order to be able to move the alternator. If your thermostat housing is like this one in the video then just follow the directions in this video.
McDonald's and mcken
900]😅
😂
Ñ
Gay
Thank you
Thank you