Fixing A Husqvarna Mower That Won't Start
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- Links to products I have in my tool bag.
Wheels amzn.to/4aLfRKq
Honda Air Filter. amzn.to/3gPEGfR
Self Propel Belt. amzn.to/4aLfRKq
Compression tester. amzn.to/2NMgeze
Spark PLUG TESTER. amzn.to/3jEcZH3
Inline Spark Checker. amzn.to/3bnXjmA
Feeler Gauge set. amzn.to/3rTsZK6
Chemical bottle. amzn.to/3eWcGVs
Lithium Grease amzn.to/3BAMsnX
Above are affiliate links which means we receive a percentage of the revenue made from purchasing products via those links.
Thanks for watching. In this video we try and find out why this engine won't start. Come to find out
there's a lot more wrong with it than previously thought.
I'd say continue fixing this mower. It has a good Honda engine. Should be for a good re-sell.
agreed
Of course you should continue fixing this mower. It will make a nice, solid mower for someone.
thanks And I sure hope so
Lawn mower looks like it be worth putting little bit time in to it and money into it THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
no problem and I completely agree!
I usually will replace those long screws that hold the carb, etc to the machine with 6m bolts and nuts; makes assembly a lot easier for me. Enjoy your videos, please do keep them coming.
The only way to mount the carbs with would require bending the crap out of the linkage. , just use two outer sections of control cable to keep every aligned, slide one out put in a bolt while holding light pressure on the assembly then the other side . Easy peasy and no bending of linkages.
@@MUUKOW3 The point is, the threaded rod can be screwed in and out; don't think I made that clear. I worked on an older Honda a while back that the only way to get the carb out was to back out the original studs it came with. We should all do what works best for us; I'm always willing to try other solutions, thanks for your input.
@@lawrencecarroll2031 Yes ,I get it now , I thought you were just replacing the bolts with studs. What your are doing is the same you just don't have to thread the cable housings in . One of the guys in the shop had repurposed some old motorcycle brake rods for the same thing.
thank and I appreciate it
I would continue on with the diagnosing and repair. It is a good mower brand and will bring in a good price overall!! Nice job on the carb disassembly/reassembly and the cleaning. The wheel issue should not be a big issue. Worked on many transmissions and they are usually not that big a deal. Overall, a quality tutorial once again!!! Stay away from working under trees! At least wear a hard hat 🙂
I hear ya, it surprised me too!
Keep on fixing it as a great tutorial. It has a good running Honda engine and the deck looks to be good and solid.
thank you
Good job 😊 IMO it worth to fix transmission as my experience tells customers prefer self propelled systems (hope you can fix without change transmission itself 😮)
Good luck n pls update when you're done !!
I will and thank you
When you engaged the self propel, the transmission was turning the shaft. Probably worth it to continue. Might just be the gear that turns the wheel
agreed
like that old pull cord reuse for that choke, havn;'t see that before
I believe He has a patent on it; part # IHG999 😀
it was a desperation move
LOL!!!
Hey bro what's up? In my opinion, I say continue to repair this mower. I believe that the person who purchases it after repairing it would hopefully appreciate your effort to get it working properly again bro. 👍👍
thanks, I think I will!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE nice👍👍
What are you spraying on for washing? it looks damn good at removing dirt.
I think he use a cleaner from harbor freight.
The one gallon jug from Harbor Freight called Super Heavy Duty Degreaser. $11/gallon.
thank you
Super Heavy Duty Degreaser
I had one but it had a commercial 200cc Briggs and Stratton motor and it had self propelled as well sold it for $300 bucks
NICE!
Thanks!
Wow! Thank you very much, I really do appreciate it.
Great work. You might need to clean the spark plug as well.
thanks and yes that's something I forgot to do.
I'd go into it just to see what was what and was wondering if the gearbox was missing the wire belt guard and the string was keeping the belt from jumping off. Good mower and fix! Happy week
thank you
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE You too, Pal!
What degreaser do you use?
Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thanks!
i bought a several years old rider from a friend and discovered the never sharpened blades had been installed backwards , apparently since new . his yard always looked nice , but l've always wondered how .
he must have mowed it often
so i got a free pushmower and its blowing oil out of thev evap hose and oil is getting in the carb but the oil level is fine. what could it be?
This happened once to me. I cleaned the evap hose spraying carb spray up it...stopped the problem
@@jesusdrummer21 alright thanks
either too much blow by because of worn rings or the oil drain the the PCV filter area is blocked
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE where is the pcv filter and how can i tell it there is blow by?
it depends on the which engine you have but most times the PCV filter is on top of the engine but you'll need to take off the flywheel to see it. To confirm this you'll need to use a Leak Down Tester to pressure test the system and find out if air is getting by the rings.
Hi, I have a Murray lawn mower with a Briggs and Stratton motor on it. I have this issue where it has gas coming out of the primer bulb. I’ve tried replacing the carburetor along with primer bulb and it’s still doing the same thing. I’m pulling my hair out trying to figure out why it’s doing this. Love your videos!
interesting.. You didn't say if you replaced the carb with a new or "just" another carb. What I would do, would be to the bowl off, doesn't matte if the carb is on or off the engine. I would the check and make sure the float is moving up and down. If so, then there might be something wrong with the replaced carb.
Yes I replaced it with a new carb, I took the bowl off to insure the float moves but it still has the same issue.
then return the carb and replace the carb from a different vendor
I'm just curious now to find out what is so wrong with those front wheels? I imagine you can up your asking price with straight wheels and the self propel working as it should.
me too, I haven't been able to get back to this project yet, but I hope to soon.
I understand that. Shouldn't the oil that came out with the gas be the same color that is in the engine? oil in engine is golden(fairly clean), what came out of the carb was black. The owner uses 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil in it, has had mower 2 yrs and hasn't changed the oil. This is the first time she has had issues with mower. Now on to next ?- would the self propel unit cause these kind of symptoms if it was not disengaging when u release the engagement handle? Is this an eternal problem and is it worth rebuilding or getting a new motor?
Very informative step by step lawn mower repair video. I'm wondering are you looking for a sponsorship? As a parts supplier I believe our collaboration can help more DIY repairers.
thank you for the comment
What about the recoil rope moving like that? Thought that is caused by a bent blade or crankshaft?
don't worry, if the mower was shaking from damaged blade or crank, I would have mentioned it. It's not shaking that badly though
Those front wheels are definitely toed out well at least the engine is a Honda the blade was upside down at least you Saw that
yes I did
Fix it up try swapping the front wheels from side to side e-z way to see if it needs wheels or has worn transmission parts
ah nice one!
I had a decent mower with Honda would not run correctly. Ended up someone had the spacer upside down sucking air. Yes chole starts coming off when bail is pulled
I don't mind this choke but it's not my favorite
I have a small 2020 3.5 hp Mercury outboard that continues to flood under load. I've cleaned/serviced several small engine carbs without issue. However, this problem has me stumped... I replaced the original carb with a new clone but the problem has persist. The engine usually cranks with 2-3 pulls and runs fine when idled. However, when applying throttle it begins to sputter and takes a while to get up to speed. After being full throttle for 15-60 seconds fuel begins pouring out of both overflow vents from the carb. I have tested both carbs to ensure the needle is making good contact with the seat by blowing air through the fuel inlet and turning the carb to simulate the float floating upwards. Air does not pass through in the position. There is a fuel pump but I could not imagine it is applying enough pressure to both not have any leaks from the gas line and be able to push past the needle in the closed position. What are your thoughts?
sure, did the fuel pump get replaced with a "universal" one or an OEM part. Also the carb might just be out of adjustment. yes it sounds like your carb is delivering too much fuel and causing it to bog down. Just out of curiosity have you considering adding an inline fuel valve to control fuel flow between the pump and the carb? Might be a fix so you can use your boat this summer. I'd try restricting fuel flow until the engine doesn't bog down when you roll onto the throttle
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE it's the original OEM fuel pump. I detached the fuel line from the carb and verified that the pump was providing an adequate fuel supply and also determined if there were any additional leaks but I was unable to find any. I can certainly add an inline valve between the fuel pump and carb. That is what I did previously to get back to the launch was shut the fuel valve and periodically open it.(Located before the fuel pump) I'm also going to add an inline filter before the fuel pump. I drained the tank and fuel lines when I initially purchased this motor and have used E0 since, replacing it on a 3 month interval or emptying the entire system including the bowl when not in use
sounds like you've got a good plan going
I just had the exact same mower dropped of for a repair. the dropped a loaded trailer onto it and completely bent the rear end. told them it would cost more for the proper repair than a new one would cost so they donated it to me.
that was nice of them
I thought a blade installed backwards makes the grass taller when you mow it
LOL!!!
Hi!
What cleaning spray do you use?
Sure, I use Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
push or self propel, you still have to replace at least one of the wheels. Like the MarkMeadows90 comment below, fix it.
I hope you're right. I still haven't look at the wheel or that end of the drive shaft yet.
I'd fix the self propel system, because the buyer might be someone who can't use a push mower easily.
yes you make a great point. I don't mind pushing, but I'd rather have self propel
Yea definitely fix it. If you have a bag for it you definitely could get $175-$200
I sure hope so
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I actually got a Husqvarna awd with a bag yesterday for free and it actually starts!! Just need to do a quick clean on carb, new air filter, oil changed and clean it up. Good blade on it might try to get $250!!
wow NICE find!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yep got $200!
Continue to fix it
thank you
I need your help, I have a 2016 Troy built tb200 self propelled mower that will run about 30 minutes and die, if you go to restart the mower it feels like the engine is locked up and will not turn. I can wait 3-4 hrs and the mower will run for about 30 minutes and it is the same thing over again. I have replaced both cables, air filter, new spark plug,cleaned carb, and replace the fuel line. It would not start when i got the mower. I have released the self propel bar to disengage the self propel and hold the control bar when trying to start.
have you checked they oil? Sounds like it's over heating and causing the piston to get stuck until it cools down. Remember to wipe the dipstick clean before you press it again the threads on the engine
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I contacted the owner of the mower and she says that she checks the oil every time she puts fuel in, and she says it has never needed any oil added. I asked her if she has ever changed the oil in it, waiting to hear back from her on that one. I personal checked the oil, it's fairly clean and it is over filled. When I was hauling the mower to my house it tipped over on it's side carb/air filter down. Gas and BLACK oil was running out of the air filter housing.
when flipping a mower on it's side, the carb must be up, otherwise gasoline and oil will come out of the engine
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I understand that! Shouldn't the oil that comes out of the carb color wise match what is in the reservoir or in the engine? The owner of mower uses 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil in mower. Now if the self propel is not releasing even tho you release the handle that engages the self propel, would that cause it not to start( unable to pull starter rope)? Also would this be something internal in the engine? I am asking these ?'s as I have never ran into this issue before. Been working on small engines since 06.
What app do u use
already mentioned
Where was it mentioned
hey whats up IHG!?
not much
The SP just needs some new wheels the plastic gears are stripped. The belt guide is missing off of the bottom of the engine for the belt. For resale on those fixing the SP isn't really worth it ss they don't even really propel the mower on a front drive high wheel. They just spin in the grass. I remember people coming in the shop and wanting a a high wheel mower because they thought it better on rough ground. And thought it was easier in tall grass and niether is true . If it is easier to lift the front what happens to your drive? If you have a rough are buy the heavy duty rear drive mower and you will be better off. Something like an old Snapper with a side chute and low lift blade is a field cutting mofo .
thanks, I haven't checked the wheels yet but I have a feeling the end of the drive shafts might be a bigger problem
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE People just grab that sp handle and never let go so every time they lift and turn the wheels take the shock when coming back on the ground . If the axle bearings rust and lock they will eat the trans worm drive. Make sure they are lubed and in good shape, those little $3 bearings can do a lot of damage.!
you got that right
Fix it
thank you
Naw repair it right, it’ll sell its early in the mowing season 👍
great idea!
fix it
thank you
Fix the self-propel? That's a coin toss. The good running Honda engine gives it some value by itself. Depends on how expensive it becomes to repair. If I could do it cheaply, I'd fix it. The Personal Pace system on my Toro gives me more problems than the engine. Last year, I had to replace the drive wheels. I've had to adjust or repair the PP system multiple times, while I've yet to have to remove the carb or head.
how old is your mower? Just wondering because I recently got a newer Toro with the weird curved handle Personal pace system.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE 13 yrs old. It's a 2011 model 20334. When the PP system is working properly, I love it. It's like taking a walk through your yard holding onto a mower handle. Almost no effort, at least going forward. Pulling it backwards is different. WAY more effort, which is why I bought a simple mower with no self-propel for trim work. Last year, I replaced the drive wheels on the Toro. I should have done it at least one year prior. It had been acting not quite right for a year. Until the middle of last year, it had been used since new as my primary mower, about 1 hr per week during the growing season.
I see, I wonder if the residual tension on the self propel cable might be the reason why it's tough to pull back. Does it feel the same way when the engine is not on?
Problem #1, its a front wheel drive mower
problem number 2, it's still a mower
I don’t understand why so many work on the mowers without cleaning them. I just think it’s smart to clean before causing more problems
thanks I think it's a good idea too
those Husqvarna have alot of problems with the self propelled wheels because the wheel bearing goes out. I had to press in 2 new ones on one I fixed few years back ,
part number is hard to find but here it is just for the wheelbearing,
587070201 or 587070202
otherwise they make you buy the whole wheel adjuster with the bearing already installed and that is alot more $$
ah, nice idea!
Continue fixing! Make some good money.
thank you !
Guys, please subscribe to him, it's worth it and it's free to do😊
thanks, I appreciate that
Anytime buddy😊