In December 1973 I attended a pre-employment electronic assembly class provided by Hewlett-Packard in Santa Rosa CA. The class was taught by Mary Powers and Polly Yates, and mainly covered the way that Hewlett-Packard wanted things done. We learned how to crimp wires on tube socket pins without turning the chassis around to make it easier for us. We had to learn to adapt to the instrument we were building...not the other way around. HP was a big proponent of joints that had a strong mechanical connection (crimp) before applying the solder. We used the very same Solderpult tool back then. Same color..same everything! I guess when a design works well...you just don't change it. No need to. What is that? 44 years or so? Damn that's a lot of years...I must be getting old. Ha
I worked for Agilent Technologies (HP) building cell tower oscilloscopes, soldering under a microscope. When i saw "Office Space" I about died laughing at the same, identical corporate mentality. 5 people telling me what to do while sitting on their asses! I gotta say though.... They had one hell of an awesome cafeteria! Any thing you could want to eat was there... Even deep fried oysters! "Looks like you've been missing a lot of work lately, mike....." "Naw... I wouldn't say I was missing it , Bob!"
I only recently discovered your CZcams channel, and I can't stop watching all the restoration videos. Thank you for taking the time to do these. Your explanations are perfect, you give the proper amount of warnings and advice, and you do a very good job of editing out the boring, time consuming work, yet still showing us what you did, why, and how. Thank you for all your work on these videos.
I had resigned myself to the usual 6-8 week wait after the last video on soldering. It was a pleasant surprise to find another video from Paul a few days later. Great explanation as always. Paul is a natural teacher who seems to anticipate my questions and addresses them. Thanks.
I like to use slightly wider solder wick that is impregnated with flux, and use it with a pulling motion to clean out joints quickly with less flux mess. Thank you for yet another terrific and useful video! These really help me enjoy my electronics hobby and I appreciate all the effort you put into making, editing, and publishing these videos.
i cant belive i just watched a 40 minute video on desoldering tools. It sure didn't seem like 40 minutes. I trudly appreciate your thoroughness Mr. Carlson.
I wish I had that super nice de-soldering gun with the vacuum built right in, in my previous life. Recapping circuit boards would have been so much easier. Really enjoy your channel!
Thank You for this video Mr. Carlson... Bought a junk desoldering station at the local Hamfest. A little improvisation, and some glue. Now I have a tool that just made my electronic projects so much easier...
Wick without flux I could never get to work and it took me a long time to realize that the cheaper ( by maybe a dollar ) wicks do not have flux on them like the ones that cost a dollar more that I'm left to assume is the reason I kept getting so frustrated watching videos of people using wick and it working great, quickly and easily and they never bother the mention they fluxed the wick previously or had flux dipped wick hile my wick just did nothing but get hot until it burned my finger 4 inches up the braid and never even melting the solder.
If you live around pine trees dissolve some pine rosin in alcohol then soak the wick in it. After you let it dry it the cheapest stuff you can buy becomes super wick.
If you had trained the electronic experts on aircraft & rockets, I would feel very comfortable flying to the moon. Well presented, well focused, good audio levels. Excellent job mate!
I used a Soldapult, but I brought the charger crutch tip up underneath my bench. I didn't even have to change it in my hand. I wore out several of them, in my job at work, and after I retired I had GrayBar Electric to order me one. I still do solder work, (and my health has made me shakey), and have to de-solder at times, but not near as much as I did professionally. I love your channel. Thank you for its content and I just love how easy it is to listen to your voice! A fellow can tell when someone can explain a complicated something or the other, and make it sound simple...That's someone that knows his....well someone that's GOOD !!!
In the automotive sector you have beautiful noise like F1 noise, and ugly noise like a grinding tool. In electronics their equivalent is the noise of a solding iron (nonoise) and the vacuum pump they supplied with the desolding iron. It's definitely worth changing it for another even faster and stronger system, while still using the same tool. The whole family will love it, including the pets. Love your work. The way you are teaching over the whole line gets an A+. Please keep going.
Excellent video, don't know how many times a day I used that manual pump while working at TI. Back in the late 70's we didn't have those automatic pumps. 73
Your videos are helpful to a person like me, who has never soldered or desoldered. Please keep up the great videos, i watched a few videos and I subscribed. Keep fixing stuff
Thank you for posting this Paul. I taught myself (translated: many mistakes, wasted bucks!) to desolder. This video will save many hobbyists a lot of grief.
Great video. Totally agree with your assessment of the Edsyn blue plastic tool. I still have the same one I bought in 1979 for my job as a tech. Thousands of joints desoldered, still works fine!!
I bought the FR-301 by HAKO. It's fantastic. Temp 1, the lowest setting, is indeed plenty as you mentioned. I also bought the HAKO 633 stand. It's quite sturdy and worth the $. I used the FR-301 on a Heathkit IM-18, IT-28, and Sencore PM157 during restorations over the past two days. What a time saver...and makes for quality looking work, too. My Dad always said, "use the right tool for the job." He was correct. My dad repaired radios in the 1940's for extra money in his attic shop. He would have really liked this tool!
@ElectricBike hi guys, the best results that I have had was by following the Gregs Electro Blog (i found it on google) without a doubt the no.1 course that I have ever followed.
Used the manual solder suckers for years, finally purchased a desoldering unit, and wow, wish I had done it years ago, especially when I was removing all those caps in power supplies and Dell motherboards over the years. World of difference. Thanks for the video Paul.
Thanks for the teaching! I spent some time practicing removing parts from some scrap electronics that were headed for the trash, and your methods worked far better than what I've tried before. Especially the adding new solder trick. I've got the one-hand cocking cheapie sucker. One other tool that I found useful is a heat gun. I don't have the special rework station type, just a big Craftsman heat gun with a narrow restrictor tip on it (about a 3/8" tube at the exit). It heats more area than needed, but for pillaging dead boards for parts to play with, I'm not too concerned about that. It's especially useful when you need to heat several pins at once, like for headers. Gets plenty hot enough even for lead-free solders (top listed is 1000F). Still learning, so thanks for the pointers! --Mike
Fantastic tutorial on a part of soldering that not a lot of people cover, even though it's super critical when fixing most faults. I like the soldapult, mostly because it's fairly cheap and doesn't have as much of a kickback when it actuates. It's also helpful to use the bench to set it, especially for repetitive tasks. I also find that solder wick doesn't tend to work great for through-hole, but is excellent for cleaning up SMD pads to replace parts, and use it mostly for that
Been watching your videos the last two years because of you I bought my AOYUE (int 474A++)Desoldering station I know it’s a cheap Chinese model but it’s been working just fine for the last year and during your whole 40 minute video I was using a continuously salvage parts of a large power supply. Also my hot air rework / soldering/ Power supply station YIHUA 853D Each were about $70 apiece and my son and I have hundreds of hours on them And they still haven’t broken down yet definitely got my moneys worth
Hi Paul I just bought a Hakko FR-300 from Fry's for $320. I use to use the Solderpullit , solder wick. I use to use Metcal, Pace, and Hakko's at work, now that I am retired, I went for the Hakko since it was available locally at Fry's. What I found from people getting the cheap Chinese Desoldering tools is they are hard to get parts for, that is why I went with Hakko, great support for parts. I just ordered the other tips and cleaning supplies for my FR-300 from American Hakko, great support. I got a strange desoldering station from where I worked, it was free. Digging into the older desoldering stations that Hakko had the hand piece for that iron looked like a old Hakko 706 (Sylvania SS 200 on the base) so I got some old desoldering tips for it that were exact duplicates. I am very happy with Hakko although the parts were being discontinued, I probably will be buying more tips for my backup station. I think the Hakko's are better designed that the other cheaper Chinese knockoffs, you get what you pay for in quality. Later Ray Burke
Hi Paul When I was desoldering surface mounted devices, and after pulling the part off. I used the desoldering gun to suck up the extra solder without too much extra pressure on the board, it didn't use up the solder wick.When I got the extra tips from Hakko I got their hand drills for the tips, to declog the desoldering gun. Maybe later you could show the different methods you use for declogging and maintaining your desoldering guns, and tools. Later Ray Burke
Hi Paul Carlson I enjoy your videos very much, and every new videos that you make. Hope you had a great weekend and holiday, do you have Thanksgiving in Canada? Well, at least have a great weekend anyway. Catch you later Ray Burke.
Thanks for the tips on desoldering. For big solder blobs I use a wick sometimes my solder sucking soldering iron first it always works great much better than trying to use my old squeeze bulb routine. Thanks again for sharing
After fighting with solder suckers and the lackluster performance for years, I bought a Hakko FR-301. Best money I ever spent. The last solder sucker I bought before the FR-301 was the Engineer, better than any on the market if you can't afford a Hakko. I still keep a roll of wick around for quick removal of solder bridges. But I go for the FR-301 99.9% of the time - and I am a hobbyist. If your doing it ALL the time or a business, you would invest in a dual-role station with soldering and de-soldering pump. A 301 for business unless it's low volume isn't a good idea.
I successfully pulled a relay off a board yesterday for the first time. I used wick, I only just got my first roll last week. I'm amazed at how simple it is to use and surprised I only recently heard of it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate you
we (USAF/ANG) used the pace desoldering tools and stations (for many many years), the black pistol grip Hakko I saw you use in your videos looks good and light--the larger blue Hakko looks a bit big and cumbersome
Thanks for the upload, lots of work gone into this "Video Details: * Video build time: 4 days. * Number of individual videos within this video: 16. * Video size as uploaded: 7.43GB."
I was doing some point to point last night and I opened a new small blue pump I got from Ebay UK in October for £!.24 delivered to try it out and it got about 80% 90% of the solder out,only bought it because we had them thrusted on us at college doing the C&G 224 and I wanted to re-live those happy days...Anyway another great video from my favorite tech and two in a week so I am happy...............:)
Hi Mr Carlson, please don't burn the candle at both ends, the last thing this world needs is a diamond like you getting ill, we can all wait and be patient I'm sure, I certainly can, I can't thank you enough for sharing your huge wealth of knowledge and experience I'm really hooked, thank you, take care Keith in UK
Can't beat the Hakko especially on densely populated through hole boards. I dint use it every day, but when I need it, there is no substitute. The wick and Solderpult tool works for some jobs, I keep all three handy. Good tip using flux with the wick. It definitely helps.
Hey Paul, I own one of those blue aluminium devices, that I (and before this period, my dad) usees for at least 30 years now - it might be 40 years... This tool looks EXACTLY like the one showed in your video, except that the middle part (including those threads) is made of aluminium as well... it's probably the older version of the same brand. Totally reliable device... No idea, why they did 'verschlimmbesser' it, as we say in german... (improving something by making it worse than it was before...) Cheers & thanks for your great and always very helpful videos!! Salossi
The second pump/sucker you showed is easy to fix BEFORE it finally dies, put some tape around the loose connection (when you buy one) on top and it will serve you for years. Easy trick/fix, great pleasure.
Wow, if the soldering video was good then the desoldering video was SUPERB! Seriously after watching just how thorough this video is the previous soldering video seems it could use a revamp. Some examples, go more in-depth discussing the tools (soldering irons, types, tips, pencil, electric, butane, stations, etc. to solder and flux types, stands, sponges, eye protection, fume extractors, et. al.), what each is, how to use them, tool comparisons, etc. I know that this is a huge topic not easily condensed and all of this is discussed IN Mr. Carlson's videos as well as other YT videos so I personally didn't mind and felt the previous video was very good. But if I were a layman and wanted a one-sit-down video on the subject this video far exceeded the previous soldering video in almost every way. Yeah it was that good. This was a professional grade instructional video that would get anyone passed in their desoldering cert. with practice of course since the certs are practical and written exams. LOL
Great vid! Here's a cool tip when snipping leads. Rather than cover the snipped end with the free hand to keep it from flying, try this one-handed technique: grip the snips with your index finger extended over the cutting jaws. Place the snips' jaws on the lead, and gently touch the end of the lead with the index finger. Squeeze the snips, and the clipped portion of the lead stays in the jaws. Cheers!
Thank you for the great video. The power tool would be handy on automotive gauge servos. If I was to do that job on a professional level , I'd have to have the power desoldering tool. I use scrap wire with flux to wick stuff.
that hako seems like the winner for sure, never had good luck with the wick. I have blown solder out of p2p work before, it makes a mess but it does work. I will have to get one of those pumps next time I need to work on an amp or multi layer board.
In the case of the Edyson soder- pull- it, i cut a V in the tip so it fits snugly over the solder iron tip. This gives a better seal which improve sucking. The FR-300/301 is awesome
Small ESD pult, two large ESD safe pults, (the BIG silver soldapults) and the electric gun, and aways the wick. If I am out and about and don't have the gun, I have an assistant resetting one soldapult as I suck the solder out with the other. I run two pencils too. If one goes too cool, I switch off and let the other catch up. It's about getting it done, and getting it done right. Move successively & systematically through, and meticulously get EVERY joint PROPERLY soldered. NO STOPPING TO WAIT FOR THINGS TO HEAT BACK UP! That stopping is where I miss a solder joint. You are spot on on that cheap sucker. My threads have gone to shite more than twice. Third time was the charm! NO MAS mi amigo!
I've been doing a lot more de-soldering lately - I task I used to loath. I never became proficient with the spring loaded suckers. I picked up an FR-301 and combined with a cheap hot air rework station, de-soldering and removing chips is now pretty darn easy.
I use a soldering iron that is kinda like your desoldering gun. But its manual. Has a rubber nub you press and release to create the vacuum. It's a simple rubber bladder system built inside the soldering iron. So it's cone shaped with the handle! I it's a Ungar brand. It's old for sure. But it works great on ic's. I've only used it a little as I've only had it for a month. But it works fantastic in one go each time. Then after using it on a joint I can press the rubber nub again to squirt the solder out on the bench. Then back to another joint. It works super well. And has an added bonus! If you have it plugged in and the tip/heating element section removed it can zap you with 120V! (I haven't been zapped yet, as I don't remove the heating element!) Works so much better on ic's and other small pain in the ass pins then a regular iron and desoldering sucker. Which I also have about 4 of the solder pullt's. I like soldering but desoldering is a huge pain sometimes! Mostly when stuff is wrapped on posts and terminals! I hate it when it's wrapped. And yes, I've wrapped stuff too. I hope I don't have to ever remove it.
For my FR-300 ...In addition to the FR-300 filters I use Goot TP-100 filters. That wimpy filter provided by Hakko gets saturated fast. But adding the relatively hefty and very cheap Goot TP-100 filters with the Goot provided steel wool to catch the solder, dramatically expands the service time of the FR-300. I'd say the cleaning and filters replacement time increases by a factor of 10.
Before he died in '98, my grandfather owned and operated an electronics repair shop and I can remember him having the exact same hand pump desoldering tools as you show here, even the same colours. I guess some things stay the same no matter how long it's been. Incidentally, he also had the same model soldering gun for chassis work as you showed in other episodes.
i switched from hand suction pumps over to the cheapest desoldering station and hot air soldering station few years ago and as a hobbyist i dont regret it. so much faster and cleaner. especially because of the high thermal mass of the desolder gun, its much better desoldering powersupply components which are on a 2 layer 2oz copper board with big ground planes.
Paul, I'm glad I re-watched these soldering videos. I was planning to purchase some RA flux from Amazon and was reading the MG reviews, even though there were quite a few bad reviews, I have re-decided to purchase that type/brand. It would be nice to see you review the no-clean alcohol type flux sometime. Thanks for your effort here!
When I was in high school, my electronics teacher let me use one of those small metal desoldering tools. It was well worn and failed at the hard plastic part that you mentioned. He swore that I had misused it and made me pay for a new one!
When I desolder the solder sucker (Soldapullt) is my go-to tool. I don't care for solder wick, but use when the solder sucker fails. I charge the solder sucker by simply pressing it against my side or chest. This is much quicker and less fatiguing, but it will start to hurt so you have to move it around. :) A desolder station is the Cadillac, but I don't desolder enough to warrant the price tag.
Very detailed and great explained! This needs lots of preparations, no doubt! I like the way you desolder surface mount parts with both irons. Yesterday I accidentally removed a pad with applying to much force. Will try this next time. Many thanks Paul for sharing your experience with us!
Excellent demonstration. I had tried the same exact plunger thing as the blue one in the video when I started. I immediately switched to solder wick and started saving for a desoldering station the same day. The results are simply not worth not buying one. If you can't afford a Hakko, get a Chinese one from eBay. The wick is also very useful.
Great videos. I have the small solder sucker. A great upgrade to it is to use a very short piece of silicon tubing stuck on the tip, leaving about 1/8" protruding. Makes a good seal against the board and gets more solder out.
Oh this is scary. I know what that second circuit board is. A Uniden/President Grant mobile CB or one of the many other radios that used that chassis. Another advantage of the vacuum desoldering iron is it also helps to cool down the lead of the component as it sucks cool air from the opposite side of the board helping prevent damage to heat sensitive components.
Yep, Mike's knowledge is scary (but good scary!). Thanks Paul for the rundown...makes me want to replace my Tenma tool with a new Hakko...maybe the XYL will get me one for Xmas? 73 - Dino KL0S
Dino Papas Whats even even scarier is I knew what it was before I even saw the component side of the board. All I had seen at that point was the little section of the solder side. 😮 We need to get you hooked up with a Pace system. With a SX 80/90/100 hand pieces it's a solder sucking monster. :-)
Paul I’ve had all those tools then I finally went to PACE stations and worked thru the yrs of styles and now have the PACE PRC 2000. I’m sure you know how much that system costs but the capabilities of what you can do is enormous. Plus you can change tips hot. I use 2 desoldering irons and a soldering iron with it so I rarely have to change tips as I use a fine and a larger tip that pretty much covers most component leads. Having a set of oxy acetylene tip cleaners is very handy also.
I think I have just found my new favourite channel. Like it a lot. Q: How easy is it to clean the electrical vacuum pump compared to the blue (plastic) tool? When I went to electronics school back in the 80'ies we had to make or own de-soldering tool in the metal workshop. We had to make every part from tip to springs and locking mechanism. The only part that was ready made was the rubber rings. It was a lot of precision work but it was great fun. It was an exact copy of the aluminium one you show here. So a little nostalgic to see it so many years later. Thanks for a great video.
I have used all those for years and it all depends on what problem you encounter,, double sided boards can be a challenge.. I just got that pistol grip sucker one (but I had many different stations to use) and I like it's self contained,, my favorite is the small sucker,,it's fast and easy to reset with a thumb.. I also have a combined plunger type in a solder iron that works ok,,sometime in heavy traces I stick a solder iron on one side and a heated sucker on the other. I never settle on one tool but grab the one that suits the difficulty I encounter.
One type of electric de-solder pump you did not cover but works REALLY well is the electromagnetic solenoid version of either/both the manual pumps (in 50 years I've only ever used/owned all aluminium bodied ones, never an all plastic or plastic topped one). Button on the side activates the solenoid to suck the solder, release the button to re-prime. Works great on stubborn large terminals e.g 1 mm or more. Much cheaper than a Hako, more flexible in use, as only a thin mains cable rather than the heating cable PLUS the vacuum tube, and if needed can be rapidly recycled for >5 reps a second - zero manual effort! One problem when doing the latter though is that a very fine solder spray can be emitted from the nozzle on the rebound - not a problem when scavenging components off a board never to be used again, but not advisable on a rework.
handy hint: if you're desoldering though-hole with a manual suction pump, align the board VERTICALLY in a sturdy vise, apply the iron to the pin on the COMPONENT side and apply the pump perpendicular to the board on the OPPOSITE side in order to get maximum suction. applying the pump and the iron together on the same side is next to useless.
Hmm, I would not I recommend doing it the way you have suggested. Some components are flush to the board so you would not be able to apply an iron to the component side. It's perfectly easy to use iron and soldering tool on the same side with the board flat on the bench. The secret is to heat the joint and quickly de-solder the joint whilst the solder is molten and the tip of the iron is still on the solder fillet. If I am scrapping a component I often cut the component off the pcb using snips then just de-solder the pins.
All of this is so new and fascinating to me! I have an interest in what would be a simple task (soldering new batteries into video game cartridges) and wanted to see what was all involved. I found your channel and this video while looking at how to desolder. Your video is such a great source of information. Thank you so much for putting it up! I have liked and subscribed!!
My brother used to have a Radio Shack squeezable red rubber vacuum bulb with a white teflon removable pointed tip that had a hole in it. It was about the size of a light-bulb and it was quite more effective than those two shaft-like suckers. All you had to do was hold the rubber bulb with the pointed end up, squeeze the air out, turn it over, place the teflon tip near the solder you want to remove and quickly unsqueeze the bulb over the hot solder. The solder would suck up through the teflon tip and into the bulb. To clean it, you just removed the teflon tip and poured out the hard little solder bits. SIMPLE.
I have one of the cheap desoldering irons off amazon. The kind with the suction bulb and it gets the job done surprisingly well. I prefer it over a solder sucker for small pads. Removed a few hundred components so far so it was well worth the 20 bucks or whatever.
Thank you for making such great content, Paul. I have a sub for my home theater that's begun producing that tell tale 60 hz humming, which from my research suggests the caps have gone bad. I'm replacing them, and appreciate you sharing your technique and tools for this type of rework.
Wow, this whole time i have been not letting the tips on my fr-300 seat correct. Was wondering why it was hard to engage. Been using it for almost two years now. As always thanks for this content!!
I remember Radio Shack sold the aluminum one as all aluminum, at least in the mid-80s, no plastic, except for the button and thumb press. Awaiting the supercharged pump in the future :D .
I've used/had this type of pump for decades (since the late 60's) I still have two - both ALL aluminium - and I have NEVER seen one with a plastic top. That seems to be a counter-intuitive piece of design given that it's being used around often wayward hot irons!
Thank you for a nice video. This week I had to replace some SMD processors. I found some special solder with a extremely low melting point (ChipQuik). A string of solder on every row of legs and the solder takes many seconds to solidify. It was really easy to desolder the chips without ruining the boards.
Very informative video. It must be said that the electric pump solder sucker, although it works the best of all, can damage or completely remove the solder pad. This is especially true for second or subsequent component removal from the same pad. Then you'll be adding wiring instead of a direct connection to the trace. So, be extremely gentle with that puppy!
I just bought a $10 Vellaman 110 solder sucker and it rocks. It's a new take on the old Radioshack models with the rubber bulb. But this one combines the spring loaded pump that's built into the handler.
Okay it is great watching your videos because you use automotive analogies. "Throw a rod" LOL Fantastic. When you did the mod to get your Firebird to pass emissions tests by doing some electronic mods to the controls you got me hooked. Getting ready to buy some soldering tools so thanks. Considering doing your classes through Patreon. THANKS!
You should mention that the Edsyn SOLDAPULLT DS017® is also available in a "low-static" version as "DS017LS". The body and tip of the unit are black instead of light blue/white due to the incorporation of carbon into the plastics to render the tool somewhat conductive, which is especially effective if the operator is suitably grounded through a wrist or ankle strap. Several other manufacturers produce similar devices. Overall, though, this was a nice, informative video for neophytes. 73 DE KI6DCB
I've only tried the small suckers. I thought I was just bad at using them, but now I feel better after seeing you need 2 sucks and still have to heat the joint while pulling.
I bought a Soldapult in 1998, "bought new at Radio Shack", used it for half a day, and hated it. I still have that very same Soldapult in 2023... Never used it since, but still have it.
Mr Carlson's Lab They just save so much time that I don't see why everyone doesn't have one, no matter what brand. I also have an extended tip for getting into tight spots.
Agreed I have both the 808 and a metcal iron. I have the metcal deaolder gun but it requires compressed air to work. Is there another model with a vacuum pump for the metcal?
I can highly recommend the SS-02 for a compact handheld pump. The soft silicone tip is easily replaceable and gives a perfect seal around the pin and hole on the board. It is also a fully alu (and very sleek) construction including the back portion with the plunger and spring mechanism. Made in japan and shipped right to your door via amazon for 30$ :)
Fantastic video! I hope people realize they are getting years (decades?) of experience handed to them. Perhaps you should have Amazon affiliate links for some of these tools (especially the Hakko). I don't think anyone would begrudge you a little income from it.
In December 1973 I attended a pre-employment electronic assembly class provided by Hewlett-Packard in Santa Rosa CA. The class was taught by Mary Powers and Polly Yates, and mainly covered the way that Hewlett-Packard wanted things done. We learned how to crimp wires on tube socket pins without turning the chassis around to make it easier for us. We had to learn to adapt to the instrument we were building...not the other way around. HP was a big proponent of joints that had a strong mechanical connection (crimp) before applying the solder.
We used the very same Solderpult tool back then. Same color..same everything! I guess when a design works well...you just don't change it. No need to. What is that? 44 years or so? Damn that's a lot of years...I must be getting old. Ha
Wish more people would share stories like these...thank you!
I worked for Agilent Technologies (HP) building cell tower oscilloscopes, soldering under a microscope. When i saw "Office Space" I about died laughing at the same, identical corporate mentality. 5 people telling me what to do while sitting on their asses! I gotta say though.... They had one hell of an awesome cafeteria! Any thing you could want to eat was there... Even deep fried oysters! "Looks like you've been missing a lot of work lately, mike....." "Naw... I wouldn't say I was missing it , Bob!"
HP made the best test gear! I always enjoyed looking inside and salivating over all that gold!
Aren't we all! LOL.
I only recently discovered your CZcams channel, and I can't stop watching all the restoration videos. Thank you for taking the time to do these. Your explanations are perfect, you give the proper amount of warnings and advice, and you do a very good job of editing out the boring, time consuming work, yet still showing us what you did, why, and how. Thank you for all your work on these videos.
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I’m just getting into soldering. This was magnificently helpful. Especially when I don’t even know what these tools are! Haha
Mr. Carlson-- you simply have the best electronics channel on youtube! Thank you for the time that you put into these incredibly informative videos.
You're welcome Sean!
I agree :)
I had resigned myself to the usual 6-8 week wait after the last video on soldering. It was a pleasant surprise to find another video from Paul a few days later. Great explanation as always. Paul is a natural teacher who seems to anticipate my questions and addresses them. Thanks.
I like to use slightly wider solder wick that is impregnated with flux, and use it with a pulling motion to clean out joints quickly with less flux mess. Thank you for yet another terrific and useful video! These really help me enjoy my electronics hobby and I appreciate all the effort you put into making, editing, and publishing these videos.
Thanks for your kind comment Michael!
i cant belive i just watched a 40 minute video on desoldering tools. It sure didn't seem like 40 minutes. I trudly appreciate your thoroughness Mr. Carlson.
You're welcome Jason!
I wish I had that super nice de-soldering gun with the vacuum built right in, in my previous life. Recapping circuit boards would have been so much easier.
Really enjoy your channel!
Thank You for this video Mr. Carlson...
Bought a junk desoldering station at the local Hamfest. A little improvisation, and some glue. Now I have a tool that just made my
electronic projects so much easier...
Wick without flux I could never get to work and it took me a long time to realize that the cheaper ( by maybe a dollar ) wicks do not have flux on them like the ones that cost a dollar more that I'm left to assume is the reason I kept getting so frustrated watching videos of people using wick and it working great, quickly and easily and they never bother the mention they fluxed the wick previously or had flux dipped wick hile my wick just did nothing but get hot until it burned my finger 4 inches up the braid and never even melting the solder.
If you live around pine trees dissolve some pine rosin in alcohol then soak the wick in it. After you let it dry it the cheapest stuff you can buy becomes super wick.
I wasted an entire roll of the stuff and got very little out of it. It wasn't a big roll, but still, it annoyed me that I couldn't get it to work.
Also be aware that flux has a limited shelf life. Fresh stuff works much better.
Also once the braid starts to oxidise (quicker with the unfluxed variety) it won't do anything!
Nobody ever told me to use extra solder either.
I am a complete newb; got that FR-301 from the beginning. So glad I did. I bet I would have given up otherwise. Worth every cent.
You are so gifted, blessed and so great at what you do. God bless you, thank you for sharing your gifts - there's no one else like you.
Wow, those are some kind words! Thank You!
Mr Carlson's Lab Hey, I have to say what I feel, you are very blessed my friend.
That house ... Thanks dude! Please let my thinking about it be real.
If you had trained the electronic experts on aircraft & rockets, I would feel very comfortable flying to the moon. Well presented, well focused, good audio levels. Excellent job mate!
I used a Soldapult, but I brought the charger crutch tip up underneath my bench. I didn't even have to change it in my hand. I wore out several of them, in my job at work, and after I retired I had GrayBar Electric to order me one. I still do solder work, (and my health has made me shakey), and have to de-solder at times, but not near as much as I did professionally.
I love your channel. Thank you for its content and I just love how easy it is to listen to your voice! A fellow can tell when someone can explain a complicated something or the other, and make it sound simple...That's someone that knows his....well someone that's GOOD !!!
In the automotive sector you have beautiful noise like F1 noise, and ugly noise like a grinding tool.
In electronics their equivalent is the noise of a solding iron (nonoise) and the vacuum pump they supplied with the desolding iron.
It's definitely worth changing it for another even faster and stronger system, while still using the same tool.
The whole family will love it, including the pets.
Love your work. The way you are teaching over the whole line gets an A+.
Please keep going.
Thanks John!
Excellent video, don't know how many times a day I used that manual pump while working at TI. Back in the late 70's we didn't have those automatic pumps.
73
I worked at an instrument lab repairing components on old circuit boards. That Halo solder vacuum would have been a game changer!
Your videos are helpful to a person like me, who has never soldered or desoldered. Please keep up the great videos, i watched a few videos and I subscribed. Keep fixing stuff
Welcome aboard Jonathan.
Thank you for posting this Paul.
I taught myself (translated: many mistakes, wasted bucks!) to desolder.
This video will save many hobbyists a lot of grief.
Great video. Totally agree with your assessment of the Edsyn blue plastic tool. I still have the same one I bought in 1979 for my job as a tech. Thousands of joints desoldered, still works fine!!
I have learned a lot from watching your videos, you are a great inspiration
I bought the FR-301 by HAKO. It's fantastic. Temp 1, the lowest setting, is indeed plenty as you mentioned. I also bought the HAKO 633 stand. It's quite sturdy and worth the $. I used the FR-301 on a Heathkit IM-18, IT-28, and Sencore PM157 during restorations over the past two days. What a time saver...and makes for quality looking work, too. My Dad always said, "use the right tool for the job." He was correct. My dad repaired radios in the 1940's for extra money in his attic shop. He would have really liked this tool!
First Soldering tutorial... now Desoldering... yeaaahh!!! Love your channel mate.. you ROCK!!! =]
@ElectricBike hi guys, the best results that I have had was by following the Gregs Electro Blog (i found it on google) without a doubt the no.1 course that I have ever followed.
Used the manual solder suckers for years, finally purchased a desoldering unit, and wow, wish I had done it years ago, especially when I was removing all those caps in power supplies and Dell motherboards over the years. World of difference. Thanks for the video Paul.
Thanks for the teaching! I spent some time practicing removing parts from some scrap electronics that were headed for the trash, and your methods worked far better than what I've tried before. Especially the adding new solder trick. I've got the one-hand cocking cheapie sucker.
One other tool that I found useful is a heat gun. I don't have the special rework station type, just a big Craftsman heat gun with a narrow restrictor tip on it (about a 3/8" tube at the exit). It heats more area than needed, but for pillaging dead boards for parts to play with, I'm not too concerned about that. It's especially useful when you need to heat several pins at once, like for headers. Gets plenty hot enough even for lead-free solders (top listed is 1000F).
Still learning, so thanks for the pointers!
--Mike
You're Welcome Mike!
Fantastic tutorial on a part of soldering that not a lot of people cover, even though it's super critical when fixing most faults. I like the soldapult, mostly because it's fairly cheap and doesn't have as much of a kickback when it actuates. It's also helpful to use the bench to set it, especially for repetitive tasks. I also find that solder wick doesn't tend to work great for through-hole, but is excellent for cleaning up SMD pads to replace parts, and use it mostly for that
Been watching your videos the last two years because of you I bought my AOYUE (int 474A++)Desoldering station I know it’s a cheap Chinese model but it’s been working just fine for the last year and during your whole 40 minute video I was using a continuously salvage parts of a large power supply. Also my hot air rework / soldering/ Power supply station YIHUA 853D Each were about $70 apiece and my son and I have hundreds of hours on them And they still haven’t broken down yet definitely got my moneys worth
Glad your enjoying the video's! Thanks for taking the time to write.
Another fine demonstration of using the right tool for the job. Well done Paul. This video will help many folks out there.
Thanks for stopping by Buddy!
I had no idea that there was such a thing as a solder sucker!
But, I know all about it now! - Thank you, Mr Carlson!
Hi Paul I just bought a Hakko FR-300 from Fry's for $320. I use to use the Solderpullit , solder wick. I use to use Metcal, Pace, and Hakko's at work, now that I am retired, I went for the Hakko since it was available locally at Fry's. What I found from people getting the cheap Chinese Desoldering tools is they are hard to get parts for, that is why I went with Hakko, great support for parts. I just ordered the other tips and cleaning supplies for my FR-300 from American Hakko, great support. I got a strange desoldering station from where I worked, it was free. Digging into the older desoldering stations that Hakko had the hand piece for that iron looked like a old Hakko 706 (Sylvania SS 200 on the base) so I got some old desoldering tips for it that were exact duplicates. I am very happy with Hakko although the parts were being discontinued, I probably will be buying more tips for my backup station. I think the Hakko's are better designed that the other cheaper Chinese knockoffs, you get what you pay for in quality. Later Ray Burke
Thanks for taking the time to write Ray!
Hi Paul When I was desoldering surface mounted devices, and after pulling the part off. I used the desoldering gun to suck up the extra solder without too much extra pressure on the board, it didn't use up the solder wick.When I got the extra tips from Hakko I got their hand drills for the tips, to declog the desoldering gun. Maybe later you could show the different methods you use for declogging and maintaining your desoldering guns, and tools. Later Ray Burke
Hi Paul Carlson
I enjoy your videos very much, and every new videos that you make. Hope you had a great weekend and holiday, do you have Thanksgiving in Canada? Well, at least have a great weekend anyway. Catch you later Ray Burke.
Thanks for the tips on desoldering. For big solder blobs I use a wick sometimes my solder sucking soldering iron first it always works great much better than trying to use my old squeeze bulb routine. Thanks again for sharing
After fighting with solder suckers and the lackluster performance for years, I bought a Hakko FR-301. Best money I ever spent. The last solder sucker I bought before the FR-301 was the Engineer, better than any on the market if you can't afford a Hakko. I still keep a roll of wick around for quick removal of solder bridges. But I go for the FR-301 99.9% of the time - and I am a hobbyist. If your doing it ALL the time or a business, you would invest in a dual-role station with soldering and de-soldering pump. A 301 for business unless it's low volume isn't a good idea.
I successfully pulled a relay off a board yesterday for the first time. I used wick, I only just got my first roll last week. I'm amazed at how simple it is to use and surprised I only recently heard of it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate you
we (USAF/ANG) used the pace desoldering tools and stations (for many many years), the black pistol grip Hakko I saw you use in your videos looks good and light--the larger blue Hakko looks a bit big and cumbersome
Thanks for the upload, lots of work gone into this
"Video Details:
* Video build time: 4 days.
* Number of individual videos within this video: 16.
* Video size as uploaded: 7.43GB."
Excellent quality video. The best detail video on CZcams. Period. Thanks
I was doing some point to point last night and I opened a new small blue pump I got from Ebay UK in October for £!.24 delivered to try it out and it got about 80% 90% of the solder out,only bought it because we had them thrusted on us at college doing the C&G 224 and I wanted to re-live those happy days...Anyway another great video from my favorite tech and two in a week so I am happy...............:)
Thanks Harry!
23:40 I was literally just waving my hand in the air at my monitor to clear the smoke so I could watch you work.....
Hi Mr Carlson, please don't burn the candle at both ends, the last thing this world needs is a diamond like you getting ill, we can all wait and be patient I'm sure, I certainly can, I can't thank you enough for sharing your huge wealth of knowledge and experience I'm really hooked, thank you, take care Keith in UK
Can't beat the Hakko especially on densely populated through hole boards. I dint use it every day, but when I need it, there is no substitute.
The wick and Solderpult tool works for some jobs, I keep all three handy. Good tip using flux with the wick. It definitely helps.
Thanks for throwing this video up. I've used everything except the Hako which I've been considering buying for a couple of years.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Paul, I own one of those blue aluminium devices, that I (and before this period, my dad) usees for at least 30 years now - it might be 40 years... This tool looks EXACTLY like the one showed in your video, except that the middle part (including those threads) is made of aluminium as well... it's probably the older version of the same brand. Totally reliable device... No idea, why they did 'verschlimmbesser' it, as we say in german... (improving something by making it worse than it was before...) Cheers & thanks for your great and always very helpful videos!! Salossi
Thank You for your kind comment Salossi!
The second pump/sucker you showed is easy to fix BEFORE it finally dies, put some tape around the loose connection (when you buy one) on top and it will serve you for years. Easy trick/fix, great pleasure.
Wow, if the soldering video was good then the desoldering video was SUPERB! Seriously after watching just how thorough this video is the previous soldering video seems it could use a revamp. Some examples, go more in-depth discussing the tools (soldering irons, types, tips, pencil, electric, butane, stations, etc. to solder and flux types, stands, sponges, eye protection, fume extractors, et. al.), what each is, how to use them, tool comparisons, etc. I know that this is a huge topic not easily condensed and all of this is discussed IN Mr. Carlson's videos as well as other YT videos so I personally didn't mind and felt the previous video was very good. But if I were a layman and wanted a one-sit-down video on the subject this video far exceeded the previous soldering video in almost every way. Yeah it was that good. This was a professional grade instructional video that would get anyone passed in their desoldering cert. with practice of course since the certs are practical and written exams. LOL
Thanks for your input William!
Great vid! Here's a cool tip when snipping leads. Rather than cover the snipped end with the free hand to keep it from flying, try this one-handed technique: grip the snips with your index finger extended over the cutting jaws. Place the snips' jaws on the lead, and gently touch the end of the lead with the index finger. Squeeze the snips, and the clipped portion of the lead stays in the jaws. Cheers!
The only vid on here that I could find that covered desoldering a lug. You should me cutting its tip was the “secret sauce.” Thanks
Thank you for the great video.
The power tool would be handy on automotive gauge servos.
If I was to do that job on a professional level , I'd have to have the power desoldering tool.
I use scrap wire with flux to wick stuff.
that hako seems like the winner for sure, never had good luck with the wick. I have blown solder out of p2p work before, it makes a mess but it does work. I will have to get one of those pumps next time I need to work on an amp or multi layer board.
In the case of the Edyson soder- pull- it, i cut a V in the tip so it fits snugly over the solder iron tip. This gives a better seal which improve sucking. The FR-300/301 is awesome
Small ESD pult, two large ESD safe pults, (the BIG silver soldapults) and the electric gun, and aways the wick. If I am out and about and don't have the gun, I have an assistant resetting one soldapult as I suck the solder out with the other. I run two pencils too. If one goes too cool, I switch off and let the other catch up. It's about getting it done, and getting it done right. Move successively & systematically through, and meticulously get EVERY joint PROPERLY soldered. NO STOPPING TO WAIT FOR THINGS TO HEAT BACK UP! That stopping is where I miss a solder joint. You are spot on on that cheap sucker. My threads have gone to shite more than twice. Third time was the charm! NO MAS mi amigo!
Thanks! Very helpful since I currently have NO desoldering equipment.
I've been doing a lot more de-soldering lately - I task I used to loath. I never became proficient with the spring loaded suckers. I picked up an FR-301 and combined with a cheap hot air rework station, de-soldering and removing chips is now pretty darn easy.
I have used them all. Pace desoldering station, solder suckers (Pullit) solder wick and hot air. They all worked but had to be kept clean.
I use a soldering iron that is kinda like your desoldering gun. But its manual. Has a rubber nub you press and release to create the vacuum. It's a simple rubber bladder system built inside the soldering iron. So it's cone shaped with the handle! I it's a Ungar brand. It's old for sure. But it works great on ic's. I've only used it a little as I've only had it for a month. But it works fantastic in one go each time. Then after using it on a joint I can press the rubber nub again to squirt the solder out on the bench. Then back to another joint. It works super well. And has an added bonus! If you have it plugged in and the tip/heating element section removed it can zap you with 120V! (I haven't been zapped yet, as I don't remove the heating element!) Works so much better on ic's and other small pain in the ass pins then a regular iron and desoldering sucker. Which I also have about 4 of the solder pullt's.
I like soldering but desoldering is a huge pain sometimes! Mostly when stuff is wrapped on posts and terminals! I hate it when it's wrapped. And yes, I've wrapped stuff too. I hope I don't have to ever remove it.
For my FR-300 ...In addition to the FR-300 filters I use Goot TP-100 filters. That wimpy filter provided by Hakko gets saturated fast. But adding the relatively hefty and very cheap Goot TP-100 filters with the Goot provided steel wool to catch the solder, dramatically expands the service time of the FR-300. I'd say the cleaning and filters replacement time increases by a factor of 10.
Before he died in '98, my grandfather owned and operated an electronics repair shop and I can remember him having the exact same hand pump desoldering tools as you show here, even the same colours. I guess some things stay the same no matter how long it's been. Incidentally, he also had the same model soldering gun for chassis work as you showed in other episodes.
Hey. I’m only 58 and I use the old blue tools all the time. The Hakko is by far better but I can’t use it upside down under a 10 HP saw motor.
From this tutorial I now know that I make everything as I should :) I desolder exactly as you mr carlson and I was learning on my own to desolder ;)
Great to read Danijel!
i switched from hand suction pumps over to the cheapest desoldering station and hot air soldering station few years ago and as a hobbyist i dont regret it. so much faster and cleaner.
especially because of the high thermal mass of the desolder gun, its much better desoldering powersupply components which are on a 2 layer 2oz copper board with big ground planes.
Paul, I'm glad I re-watched these soldering videos. I was planning to purchase some RA flux from Amazon and was reading the MG reviews, even though there were quite a few bad reviews, I have re-decided to purchase that type/brand. It would be nice to see you review the no-clean alcohol type flux sometime. Thanks for your effort here!
When I was in high school, my electronics teacher let me use one of those small metal desoldering tools. It was well worn and failed at the hard plastic part that you mentioned. He swore that I had misused it and made me pay for a new one!
When I desolder the solder sucker (Soldapullt) is my go-to tool. I don't care for solder wick, but use when the solder sucker fails. I charge the solder sucker by simply pressing it against my side or chest. This is much quicker and less fatiguing, but it will start to hurt so you have to move it around. :) A desolder station is the Cadillac, but I don't desolder enough to warrant the price tag.
Very detailed and great explained! This needs lots of preparations, no doubt! I like the way you desolder surface mount parts with both irons. Yesterday I accidentally removed a pad with applying to much force. Will try this next time. Many thanks Paul for sharing your experience with us!
Any time Ralf!
Excellent demonstration. I had tried the same exact plunger thing as the blue one in the video when I started. I immediately switched to solder wick and started saving for a desoldering station the same day. The results are simply not worth not buying one. If you can't afford a Hakko, get a Chinese one from eBay. The wick is also very useful.
Thanks for the flux tip for using desolder braid. Comprehensive video, too.
You're welcome!
Great videos.
I have the small solder sucker. A great upgrade to it is to use a very short piece of silicon tubing stuck on the tip, leaving about 1/8" protruding. Makes a good seal against the board and gets more solder out.
Oh this is scary. I know what that second circuit board is. A Uniden/President Grant mobile CB or one of the many other radios that used that chassis.
Another advantage of the vacuum desoldering iron is it also helps to cool down the lead of the component as it sucks cool air from the opposite side of the board helping prevent damage to heat sensitive components.
LOL, you nailed the radio Mike!
Mike knows his radios for sure.
Yep, Mike's knowledge is scary (but good scary!). Thanks Paul for the rundown...makes me want to replace my Tenma tool with a new Hakko...maybe the XYL will get me one for Xmas? 73 - Dino KL0S
Dino Papas
Whats even even scarier is I knew what it was before I even saw the component side of the board. All I had seen at that point was the little section of the solder side. 😮 We need to get you hooked up with a Pace system. With a SX 80/90/100 hand pieces it's a solder sucking monster. :-)
Good point on the vacuum cooling effect, Mike. Thanks for the tip!
I was surprised not to see the desoldering iron with the squeeze bulb that you work with your thumb. That's been my go-to for years.
Paul I’ve had all those tools then I finally went to PACE stations and worked thru the yrs of styles and now have the PACE PRC 2000.
I’m sure you know how much that system costs but the capabilities of what you can do is enormous.
Plus you can change tips hot. I use 2 desoldering irons and a soldering iron with it so I rarely have to change tips as I use a fine and a larger tip that pretty much covers most component leads.
Having a set of oxy acetylene tip cleaners is very handy also.
Really liked the vid...very informative. All info, no time wasted on fluff. Insanely jealous of your Batcave / lab. Very cool.
Thank you for this video. It really helped me with a project to add bigger capacitors to a portable headphone amp.
You're Welcome Andrew!
Thank you for teaching us your wonderful tips this can make a vast difference in our day to day work sir .
I think I have just found my new favourite channel.
Like it a lot.
Q: How easy is it to clean the electrical vacuum pump compared to the blue (plastic) tool?
When I went to electronics school back in the 80'ies we had to make or own de-soldering tool in the metal workshop. We had to make every part from tip to springs and locking mechanism. The only part that was ready made was the rubber rings. It was a lot of precision work but it was great fun. It was an exact copy of the aluminium one you show here. So a little nostalgic to see it so many years later.
Thanks for a great video.
I have used all those for years and it all depends on what problem you encounter,, double sided boards can be a challenge.. I just got that pistol grip sucker one (but I had many different stations to use) and I like it's self contained,, my favorite is the small sucker,,it's fast and easy to reset with a thumb.. I also have a combined plunger type in a solder iron that works ok,,sometime in heavy traces I stick a solder iron on one side and a heated sucker on the other. I never settle on one tool but grab the one that suits the difficulty I encounter.
One type of electric de-solder pump you did not cover but works REALLY well is the electromagnetic solenoid version of either/both the manual pumps (in 50 years I've only ever used/owned all aluminium bodied ones, never an all plastic or plastic topped one). Button on the side activates the solenoid to suck the solder, release the button to re-prime.
Works great on stubborn large terminals e.g 1 mm or more. Much cheaper than a Hako, more flexible in use, as only a thin mains cable rather than the heating cable PLUS the vacuum tube, and if needed can be rapidly recycled for >5 reps a second - zero manual effort! One problem when doing the latter though is that a very fine solder spray can be emitted from the nozzle on the rebound - not a problem when scavenging components off a board never to be used again, but not advisable on a rework.
handy hint: if you're desoldering though-hole with a manual suction pump, align the board VERTICALLY in a sturdy vise, apply the iron to the pin on the COMPONENT side and apply the pump perpendicular to the board on the OPPOSITE side in order to get maximum suction. applying the pump and the iron together on the same side is next to useless.
Hmm, I would not I recommend doing it the way you have suggested. Some components are flush to the board so you would not be able to apply an iron to the component side. It's perfectly easy to use iron and soldering tool on the same side with the board flat on the bench. The secret is to heat the joint and quickly de-solder the joint whilst the solder is molten and the tip of the iron is still on the solder fillet. If I am scrapping a component I often cut the component off the pcb using snips then just de-solder the pins.
All of this is so new and fascinating to me! I have an interest in what would be a simple task (soldering new batteries into video game cartridges) and wanted to see what was all involved. I found your channel and this video while looking at how to desolder. Your video is such a great source of information. Thank you so much for putting it up! I have liked and subscribed!!
My brother used to have a Radio Shack squeezable red rubber vacuum bulb with a white teflon removable pointed tip that had a hole in it. It was about the size of a light-bulb and it was quite more effective than those two shaft-like suckers. All you had to do was hold the rubber bulb with the pointed end up, squeeze the air out, turn it over, place the teflon tip near the solder you want to remove and quickly unsqueeze the bulb over the hot solder. The solder would suck up through the teflon tip and into the bulb. To clean it, you just removed the teflon tip and poured out the hard little solder bits. SIMPLE.
I have one of the cheap desoldering irons off amazon. The kind with the suction bulb and it gets the job done surprisingly well. I prefer it over a solder sucker for small pads. Removed a few hundred components so far so it was well worth the 20 bucks or whatever.
Thank you for making such great content, Paul. I have a sub for my home theater that's begun producing that tell tale 60 hz humming, which from my research suggests the caps have gone bad. I'm replacing them, and appreciate you sharing your technique and tools for this type of rework.
Excellent. Anyone not doing the Patreon class is missing the best $2/month you can spend on CZcams.
Wow, this whole time i have been not letting the tips on my fr-300 seat correct. Was wondering why it was hard to engage. Been using it for almost two years now. As always thanks for this content!!
This is very common for the "Cracked Element Housing" problem. I hope your element is OK Don.
I remember Radio Shack sold the aluminum one as all aluminum, at least in the mid-80s, no plastic, except for the button and thumb press.
Awaiting the supercharged pump in the future :D .
I've used/had this type of pump for decades (since the late 60's) I still have two - both ALL aluminium - and I have NEVER seen one with a plastic top. That seems to be a counter-intuitive piece of design given that it's being used around often wayward hot irons!
Thank you for a nice video. This week I had to replace some SMD processors. I found some special solder with a extremely low melting point (ChipQuik). A string of solder on every row of legs and the solder takes many seconds to solidify. It was really easy to desolder the chips without ruining the boards.
Glad you enjoyed Anders!
Very informative video. It must be said that the electric pump solder sucker, although it works the best of all, can damage or completely remove the solder pad. This is especially true for second or subsequent component removal from the same pad. Then you'll be adding wiring instead of a direct connection to the trace. So, be extremely gentle with that puppy!
I just bought a $10 Vellaman 110 solder sucker and it rocks.
It's a new take on the old Radioshack models with the rubber bulb.
But this one combines the spring loaded pump that's built into the handler.
Okay it is great watching your videos because you use automotive analogies. "Throw a rod" LOL Fantastic. When you did the mod to get your Firebird to pass emissions tests by doing some electronic mods to the controls you got me hooked. Getting ready to buy some soldering tools so thanks. Considering doing your classes through Patreon. THANKS!
all techniques in one video thank you very much
You should mention that the Edsyn SOLDAPULLT DS017® is also available in a "low-static" version as "DS017LS". The body and tip of the unit are black instead of light blue/white due to the incorporation of carbon into the plastics to render the tool somewhat conductive, which is especially effective if the operator is suitably grounded through a wrist or ankle strap. Several other manufacturers produce similar devices.
Overall, though, this was a nice, informative video for neophytes.
73 DE KI6DCB
Top notch visual aid work! Subbed.
Welcome aboard Nathan!
I've only tried the small suckers. I thought I was just bad at using them, but now I feel better after seeing you need 2 sucks and still have to heat the joint while pulling.
Simply a perfect lesson! thank you.
I bought a Soldapult in 1998, "bought new at Radio Shack", used it for half a day, and hated it. I still have that very same Soldapult in 2023... Never used it since, but still have it.
ٍSorry I asked you before about desoldering technique but fortunatly i found you have presented this excellent video. thanks
Thanks, Paul. I love my Hakko 808 de-soldering gun. It's worth it's weight in gold!
I agree Robert, that's a great tool!
And I love my METCAL oxox.
I like my METCAL as well.
Mr Carlson's Lab They just save so much time that I don't see why everyone doesn't have one, no matter what brand. I also have an extended tip for getting into tight spots.
Agreed I have both the 808 and a metcal iron. I have the metcal deaolder gun but it requires compressed air to work. Is there another model with a vacuum pump for the metcal?
I can highly recommend the SS-02 for a compact handheld pump. The soft silicone tip is easily replaceable and gives a perfect seal around the pin and hole on the board. It is also a fully alu (and very sleek) construction including the back portion with the plunger and spring mechanism. Made in japan and shipped right to your door via amazon for 30$ :)
On the manual pumps, adding a litle bit of silicone tubing makes it working much better.
A 'Puffer Ball' also works to blow solder out of plated through holes. Great vids Mr. Carlson!!
You are very gifted my friend. Thanks for the videos.
Fantastic video! I hope people realize they are getting years (decades?) of experience handed to them.
Perhaps you should have Amazon affiliate links for some of these tools (especially the Hakko). I don't think anyone would begrudge you a little income from it.